Nice work John. I was recently machining a part which only just fit on the machine, so I kept the clearance plane close to the part to avoid running out of Z travel. Just missed the bolts I was using to hold it down when it rapid moved to another area of the stock - more by luck than judgement !
I am jumping in before the end. Those pieces are Stephenson links to choose the direction of rotation of the engine. They are part of the valve gear which times the valve to the cylinder. There are two eccentrics on each side with a rod riding on each eccentric reaching forward to the link. By raising or lowering the link the valve rod is in direct line with one eccentric rod or the other. Normally the reversing rod is behind the drivers and behind the cylinders so it would be easy to look and tell which direction the engine will turn when the link is up or down. The arrangement shown is not typical. Normally the reversing lever is pushed forward and the link lowered to go forward. Also the crank pins are 90 degrees from each other so the engine(two cylinder) will be self starting.
Mastercam has an option for transforming/translating toolpaths with no need for all the extra machine setup or extra CAD geometry. If you don't like rigid or compression tapping on your machine you need a bed mill with a quill that will allow you to tap using the manual part of the quill and will not affect your setup. if the quill has a readout too it won't affect the z setting either. Just some of my thoughts have a good day!
Great video as always. For avoid crashes to the bolt heads, you could download the actual bolt design from McMasterCarr and then in your setup page, you could select those bolts as fixture. By this way, you could change the retract height or other associative parameters if some crashes occure while simulating toolpaths. Thanks for this week's WW.
I didn't even see you take that screw off until you slowed down. That tool took it like a champ, didn't seem to care about it at all. Also, I did not know you could use a point on that CAM drill op. I usually add a pocket/through hole in the model (I know it's a hack) with the same diameter as my adaptive tool so I can use it as the predrill position for the adaptive. I will have to try that point trick next time!
Very cool! I'm trying my best to learn Fusion 360 and maybe some day I will be making parts...who knows? Appreciate your time in making these videos, Cheers, John
You don't powertap on the Haas? Seems like that would be a time saver. Of course not breaking taps and scrapping parts with a machine that doesn't care about torque limits could easily make the second op worth while. :-) If you had modeled the screw heads before you did the cam and left them a part of the model would it have avoided the tool collision?
billh308 yes I totally agree I used gauge plate ( W1 or O1 for the USA guys ) I have done five true scale mainline loco's and much prefer Walcherts /sp gear after a torrid time with a inside Stevenson's loco link But it did work out ok
Should have milled out a set of soft jaws and made a nesting fixture to hold the second op, no screws necessary so you don't have to stop and remove screws for chamfering the edges
A question. Were the links machined from steel or aluminum? If aluminum they will wear very fast because there is a lot of force transmitted through the valve gear to move the valve. The links should be steel or cast iron and the blocks in the slot should be brass or bronze.
John, you have 2 coordinate systems (G54,G55) demonstrated in a single Setup. How do we handle assigning G54 to one setup, and G55 to a series of CAM operations in a second setup? I know its easy to simply manually edit the gcode and insert G55 where needed, but thought there would be a way to do it through F360's CAM interface... ? Thanks ... Bill W
I have been machining for 48 years mostly cnc machining centers I don't know why you don't use hogging mills for your roughing opps that will give your Finnish endmills a lot longer life. I'm not sure why you don't use your tapping on your machining centers they are much much faster than hand tapping. Just wondering thanks
I just my 770 with a stand and ATC from Tormach last week. Getting use to Pathpilot and the way they set offsets is a little strange coming from using a Haas and Mori Seki machines at work. Is there a way to search for a line or tool in the active code to rerun that sequence? The ATC has been very cumbersome to dial in. I spent a few hours tweaking it on the weekend and it was working great until the I was on my 10th part this morning and for whatever reason, the ATC stepper either lost its position or something loosened up but when it did a tool change on the last tool, it came down and snapped the plastic bolts off. Now I can't seem to get the carousel to agree with the rest of the slots after aligning one in perfect. Any tips??
Great work John. I commend you for putting that little hiccup in the final cut of the video. Most of us would edit that out (wink wink). I couldn't agree more, I've lost count of how many time I've accidentally milled the top off a cap head bolt ;-)
The realization slam at 9:02 was an awesome touch in editing, and the multiple rewinds. So hilarious. Came out of nowhere. I rewatched this video a couple times just because of that. :) - "I've lost count of how many time I've accidentally milled the top off a cap head bolt ;-)" What sucks is when you royally screw up a bolt head to the point where you can't put the Hex Key in anymore. 'Ah crap, now I got to find a way to take this thing off without damaging the part. Fuuuuu...'
The funniest part of that video is how I instantly 'puckered' when it happened! And you KNOW everyone was watching for that bolt on the second fixture. Good idea in cleaning up that path before running it too. :)
1OlBull. You will be amazed at how close flat head cap screws get you. You do have to exercise some attention to detail with regard to the head diameter. The height will allow more clearance . of course this is only good for symmetrical parts. try it and you'll find quicker turn around of parts. BTW, I like to keep an assortment of fhcs with the head diameter reduced at my bench. I'll chuck them in a drill and take them to the belt sander. just a bit smaller nothing gross. a little planning a care on feed will result in accurate, repeatable part made quickly.
In this case, I think it's a good candidate for patterning within cam. With such simple fixturing, and two identical parts in the same vise, two offsets is redundant. Especially if you're going to ever run those parts again. Setup time will be reduced and the margin for error is also much smaller, because you only have one work offset to worry about getting right. :D
This is EXACTLY was I was looking for!! About to do first setup with multiple parts and was needing to know how to do G55 in both Fusion and Path Pilot!! Awesome!!!
I like that format of mixing toolpathing with machining. nice work... so far as the c rubbing goes.. the safest thing is to define your fixtures in your setup... then simulate before posting. because otherwise all it takes is adding another quick toolpath and forgetting to change the height and you're back to crashing into cap screws.
why do 2 co-ordinates? cant you just lay it out in manufacturing spaced and program in one go.. I know you can as I did it recently.. I was looking for answers on setting 2 wc for side a and side b where you would have to flip the part and set a new z height... my fusion and pathpilot has been giving me headaches.. seems one tiem I get it next time it doesnt work right... hobbyist here ps love your vids
Question on cleaning your Tormachs... between the way oil and the mist coolant chips and crud just stick to everything in the whole cabinet. How are you keeping your 770 and 1100 so clean? Are you using some type of spray cleaner that's cutting the oil that coats everything? Even the area around your bolt heads on the mill base are pretty clean. Is there a trick, or do you just do a TON of cleaning every day to make it look good for the video shoots?
Perfect timing on this, John. I'm working on an improved pallet setup for these handles and wanted to use work offsets rather than patterns. Too easy and keeps the design simple... Thanks! Tom Z
Good video! Does anyone know how to stop it from going to G30 as it moves from one work offset to the next? Not a problem for one off programs but it wastes a lot of time when doing a production run. I've been manually editing the code but I'm hoping there is a setting I don't know about in Fusion360.
I would've put two pins into the holes so the parts are aligned well and then two bolts at the ends of the slit, then you also wouldn't have to worry so much about the chamfer.
Sorry, commented a little prematurely, the chamfer of the slit would be a problem. But wouldn't it be more important to hit the alignment right? The chamfers could be done by hand, if the look isn't so important, I think it will get scratched anyway.
I JUST had to do this on my DT-2 yesterday with HSM and I was shocked how little info was out there about it. There was 1 other video that I found that helped me, but I didn't find any Autodesk resources.
How are you getting 10,000 rpm on the tormach? Is it a modification you made to your machine? Or did you say that by mistake. BTW, I used to work at LBNL as a machinist. That DMU you showed in the video was the machine I operated. And also the tiny CNC lathe that appears briefly. I used to love working there!
Couple things: 1) Watch out for true position shifting between the bolt and the ID, I've lost many chamfer tools due to the sloppiness between the two. 2) Feel free to up your chip load on your chamfer tool, a .0035" chip load per tooth on a 4 flute chamfer mill still gives a surprisingly smooth breakedge and would bump you up to 140IPM.
Great videos! I was wondering where you get most of your feeds and speeds? Besides experience, is there a go-to chart or location you like for a starting point? Thanks!
I would hold side two in soft jaws no problem..the part looks quite strong so would not crush no need to have side two really tight anyway.. centring vise for side one..no need to probe the stock for position that way..
That three flute didn't seem to mind the steel screw that much, It was a different story for our superfly when it tried to tangle with a talon jaw after the cam was set for a zero off of part top and the guy operating it for that part zeroed off the parallels. Lesson learned, always triple check Z heights.
John, great video, you could have done this part in one setup no need for two setups. i use tabs i finish parts that are much bigger and i just sand the tabs away its much quicker.
9:56 no need look clearance. use same finish pass and use tool compensation only need figure out depth.oh you not have finish pass you used cam :) if im lazy i just use machine scale. poor man adaptive countouring
when we first started running our router it was using a G28 at the end of the program to go back to absolute zero in machine coordinates and it ran right through a drill press vice we had bolted to the table. end mill didn't even break but it chipped every tooth and shoved the gantry out of alignment.
That sounds really bad :( I don't use the "return to zero" commands anymore, too much can go wrong. The homing command is better, the machine ascends the z axis first and then travels to x and y zero.
omg first time i was interested in the cam. YA, SHOW MACHINING WHILE SHOWING CAM!!! good stuff.
Nice work John. I was recently machining a part which only just fit on the machine, so I kept the clearance plane close to the part to avoid running out of Z travel. Just missed the bolts I was using to hold it down when it rapid moved to another area of the stock - more by luck than judgement !
I am jumping in before the end. Those pieces are Stephenson links to choose the direction of rotation of the engine. They are part of the valve gear which times the valve to the cylinder. There are two eccentrics on each side with a rod riding on each eccentric reaching forward to the link. By raising or lowering the link the valve rod is in direct line with one eccentric rod or the other. Normally the reversing rod is behind the drivers and behind the cylinders so it would be easy to look and tell which direction the engine will turn when the link is up or down. The arrangement shown is not typical. Normally the reversing lever is pushed forward and the link lowered to go forward. Also the crank pins are 90 degrees from each other so the engine(two cylinder) will be self starting.
More machining sidevideo as you're showing the CAD/CAM! Excellent idea!
Mastercam has an option for transforming/translating toolpaths with no need for all the extra machine setup or extra CAD geometry. If you don't like rigid or compression tapping on your machine you need a bed mill with a quill that will allow you to tap using the manual part of the quill and will not affect your setup. if the quill has a readout too it won't affect the z setting either. Just some of my thoughts have a good day!
Great video as always. For avoid crashes to the bolt heads, you could download the actual bolt design from McMasterCarr and then in your setup page, you could select those bolts as fixture. By this way, you could change the retract height or other associative parameters if some crashes occure while simulating toolpaths.
Thanks for this week's WW.
Pretty sure he knows that considering he's done multiple tutorials on it....
@@Steve_Just_Steve I didn't. Thanks @Tayfun.
I didn't even see you take that screw off until you slowed down. That tool took it like a champ, didn't seem to care about it at all.
Also, I did not know you could use a point on that CAM drill op. I usually add a pocket/through hole in the model (I know it's a hack) with the same diameter as my adaptive tool so I can use it as the predrill position for the adaptive. I will have to try that point trick next time!
Very cool! I'm trying my best to learn Fusion 360 and maybe some day I will be making parts...who knows? Appreciate your time in making these videos, Cheers, John
Fancy video John! Love it!
You don't powertap on the Haas? Seems like that would be a time saver. Of course not breaking taps and scrapping parts with a machine that doesn't care about torque limits could easily make the second op worth while. :-) If you had modeled the screw heads before you did the cam and left them a part of the model would it have avoided the tool collision?
Aluminum for that part? First time in the live steam hobby that I've ever seen one made from Aluminum. It's a part that takes a beating!
billh308 yes I totally agree I used gauge plate ( W1 or O1 for the USA guys )
I have done five true scale mainline loco's and much prefer Walcherts /sp gear after a torrid time with a inside Stevenson's loco link
But it did work out ok
How accurate is the outer contour to the two holes? Since the parts are held in place by screws, i can imagine they could be off by a little bit.
can you connect the Tormach to a PC so you can Post G-Code and then transfer the file directly to the Machine over Ethernet?
Should have milled out a set of soft jaws and made a nesting fixture to hold the second op, no screws necessary so you don't have to stop and remove screws for chamfering the edges
Is there a special reason for using a manual touch probe? Or is it not possible to use a CNC touch probe with the control of the machine?
tormachs have a digital one but its $$$ and not much different... Id like one though haa\
Superb bro 😎
A question. Were the links machined from steel or aluminum? If aluminum they will wear very fast because there is a lot of force transmitted through the valve gear to move the valve. The links should be steel or cast iron and the blocks in the slot should be brass or bronze.
John, you have 2 coordinate systems (G54,G55) demonstrated in a single Setup. How do we handle assigning G54 to one setup, and G55 to a series of CAM operations in a second setup? I know its easy to simply manually edit the gcode and insert G55 where needed, but thought there would be a way to do it through F360's CAM interface... ? Thanks ... Bill W
I have been machining for 48 years mostly cnc machining centers I don't know why you don't use hogging mills for your roughing opps that will give your Finnish endmills a lot longer life. I'm not sure why you don't use your tapping on your machining centers they are much much faster than hand tapping.
Just wondering thanks
I just my 770 with a stand and ATC from Tormach last week. Getting use to Pathpilot and the way they set offsets is a little strange coming from using a Haas and Mori Seki machines at work. Is there a way to search for a line or tool in the active code to rerun that sequence?
The ATC has been very cumbersome to dial in. I spent a few hours tweaking it on the weekend and it was working great until the I was on my 10th part this morning and for whatever reason, the ATC stepper either lost its position or something loosened up but when it did a tool change on the last tool, it came down and snapped the plastic bolts off. Now I can't seem to get the carousel to agree with the rest of the slots after aligning one in perfect. Any tips??
Nice!
"hybrid machining" heh
Shame! Where's your eye protection at the chop saw?
When it hit that SHCS I was expecting a broken end mill... 😬
hahaha I have my fair share of custom machined fixture screws =P
LOL Well sooner or later everybody hits one.
Great work John. I commend you for putting that little hiccup in the final cut of the video. Most of us would edit that out (wink wink). I couldn't agree more, I've lost count of how many time I've accidentally milled the top off a cap head bolt ;-)
DCTTeacher1 those are the ones to save and reuse haha
Donz Milky true that mate 😂
The realization slam at 9:02 was an awesome touch in editing, and the multiple rewinds. So hilarious. Came out of nowhere. I rewatched this video a couple times just because of that. :)
- "I've lost count of how many time I've accidentally milled the top off a cap head bolt ;-)"
What sucks is when you royally screw up a bolt head to the point where you can't put the Hex Key in anymore. 'Ah crap, now I got to find a way to take this thing off without damaging the part. Fuuuuu...'
That new Editor is killing it nice work with the Chips and Cad at the same time. Get on Tormachs case about more rpm for the 1100
or save $5K and get a VMC from the 90's that has at least a 7K rpm spindle
The funniest part of that video is how I instantly 'puckered' when it happened! And you KNOW everyone was watching for that bolt on the second fixture. Good idea in cleaning up that path before running it too. :)
:)
How do you chamfer the bottom of the part? By using cap head screws, wouldn't you have an alignment issue if you simply turned the parts over?
1OlBull. You will be amazed at how close flat head cap screws get you. You do have to exercise some attention to detail with regard to the head diameter. The height will allow more clearance . of course this is only good for symmetrical parts. try it and you'll find quicker turn around of parts. BTW, I like to keep an assortment of fhcs with the head diameter reduced at my bench. I'll chuck them in a drill and take them to the belt sander. just a bit smaller nothing gross. a little planning a care on feed will result in accurate, repeatable part made quickly.
In this case, I think it's a good candidate for patterning within cam. With such simple fixturing, and two identical parts in the same vise, two offsets is redundant. Especially if you're going to ever run those parts again. Setup time will be reduced and the margin for error is also much smaller, because you only have one work offset to worry about getting right. :D
This is EXACTLY was I was looking for!! About to do first setup with multiple parts and was needing to know how to do G55 in both Fusion and Path Pilot!! Awesome!!!
I like that format of mixing toolpathing with machining. nice work... so far as the c rubbing goes.. the safest thing is to define your fixtures in your setup... then simulate before posting. because otherwise all it takes is adding another quick toolpath and forgetting to change the height and you're back to crashing into cap screws.
"Height's not that important" sure it's not lol
lol
Really appreciate the extra effort in editing. Looks great.
why do 2 co-ordinates? cant you just lay it out in manufacturing spaced and program in one go.. I know you can as I did it recently.. I was looking for answers on setting 2 wc for side a and side b where you would have to flip the part and set a new z height... my fusion and pathpilot has been giving me headaches.. seems one tiem I get it next time it doesnt work right... hobbyist here
ps love your vids
Question on cleaning your Tormachs... between the way oil and the mist coolant chips and crud just stick to everything in the whole cabinet. How are you keeping your 770 and 1100 so clean? Are you using some type of spray cleaner that's cutting the oil that coats everything? Even the area around your bolt heads on the mill base are pretty clean. Is there a trick, or do you just do a TON of cleaning every day to make it look good for the video shoots?
You're going too fast my man nice content but slow down and explain a Lil more step by step
Awesome, this should help me make better use of those Orange Vises.
Perfect timing on this, John. I'm working on an improved pallet setup for these handles and wanted to use work offsets rather than patterns. Too easy and keeps the design simple...
Thanks!
Tom Z
How to set up or g54 im confused
Good video! Does anyone know how to stop it from going to G30 as it moves from one work offset to the next? Not a problem for one off programs but it wastes a lot of time when doing a production run. I've been manually editing the code but I'm hoping there is a setting I don't know about in Fusion360.
I added an extra property to the post processor so I can select whether or not to do the full retract when I post the code
I would've put two pins into the holes so the parts are aligned well and then two bolts at the ends of the slit, then you also wouldn't have to worry so much about the chamfer.
Klaufmann how would you then do the internal chamfer
Sorry, commented a little prematurely, the chamfer of the slit would be a problem. But wouldn't it be more important to hit the alignment right? The chamfers could be done by hand, if the look isn't so important, I think it will get scratched anyway.
@@stuarthardy4626 put the dowels/pins in lower so you have clearance
I JUST had to do this on my DT-2 yesterday with HSM and I was shocked how little info was out there about it. There was 1 other video that I found that helped me, but I didn't find any Autodesk resources.
good！！！！！！
How are you getting 10,000 rpm on the tormach? Is it a modification you made to your machine? Or did you say that by mistake. BTW, I used to work at LBNL as a machinist. That DMU you showed in the video was the machine I operated. And also the tiny CNC lathe that appears briefly. I used to love working there!
OOOPS , never mind, just noticed it is a Tormach 770 not a 1100.
Hey John I am not sure what happened but you seem to have alot of echo and muffled sound in your recent videos now
Couple things:
1) Watch out for true position shifting between the bolt and the ID, I've lost many chamfer tools due to the sloppiness between the two.
2) Feel free to up your chip load on your chamfer tool, a .0035" chip load per tooth on a 4 flute chamfer mill still gives a surprisingly smooth breakedge and would bump you up to 140IPM.
Really appreciate the technical gems you share - such as the Path Pilot --> OffSets --> Work option to sanity check the Offset values :-)
Great videos! I was wondering where you get most of your feeds and speeds? Besides experience, is there a go-to chart or location you like for a starting point? Thanks!
What bit type are you using to mill this Aluminum. I presume Carbide? What would you do different if you where using HSS bits?
I would hold side two in soft jaws no problem..the part looks quite strong so would not crush no need to have side two really tight anyway.. centring vise for side one..no need to probe the stock for position that way..
why do people have so many tool changes?
That three flute didn't seem to mind the steel screw that much, It was a different story for our superfly when it tried to tangle with a talon jaw after the cam was set for a zero off of part top and the guy operating it for that part zeroed off the parallels. Lesson learned, always triple check Z heights.
Can you clamp the tapping arm to the machine table for doing the threads without moving the fixture out of the vise :-)
John, great video, you could have done this part in one setup no need for two setups. i use tabs i finish parts that are much bigger and i just sand the tabs away its much quicker.
9:56 no need look clearance. use same finish pass and use tool compensation only need figure out depth.oh you not have finish pass you used cam :) if im lazy i just use machine scale. poor man adaptive countouring
Stevenson expansion link.
John, Is that Jody's son playing guitar? Sounds like him, he's pretty dang good.
This format is awesome, having the machining and CAM overlaid is cool!
Now i need a tormach machine, if only the CDN$ didn't suck right now
Thanks for the G54 55 video. Always learn at NYC CNC
Let's go to the picture-in-picture!
Very helpful. Thanks!
Great video! I like the format too.
that new lighting yo!
G55 B-)
What is the advantage over drawing the part twice?
That makes sense, thanks.
when we first started running our router it was using a G28 at the end of the program to go back to absolute zero in machine coordinates and it ran right through a drill press vice we had bolted to the table. end mill didn't even break but it chipped every tooth and shoved the gantry out of alignment.
That sounds really bad :(
I don't use the "return to zero" commands anymore, too much can go wrong. The homing command is better, the machine ascends the z axis first and then travels to x and y zero.
you do g28 Z0. first before any lateral move ;)
but Im sure you learned that now haha