"A little bit of criticism" about the look seems to be an understatement in my experience. Great vid man! Interesting to see your thought process and how you evaluated this one.
I have the DM1.12 in SST-20 2700K and SBT90.2. When compared to a D4V2 in XPL-HI 5000K, the brightness is visibly similar. Throw-wise, I compared it to a W1 in a Convoy C8+, while it may not throw as far, but it has a much wider hotspot that i consider more useful.
I agree and take it one step further, beside being awesomely made, rhe k9.3 unfortunately never made sense.. I've owned and sold 4 of them and could never find a reason to keep it. The dm1.12 looks so good.
Awesome video man. Nice job. I just got the shipping notification for my DM1.12 (I got the stone white version, so had to wait). Looking forward to checking it out.
Also, I really like the grippy tube that some people have complained about because, at least for my very big hands, it isn't the easiest flashlight to grab a hold of.
Great review!! This DM1.12 peaks my interest especially having the the choice of modes from green thrower to flood. If you haven't checked it out, my favorite light out of the 20-30 lights that i've bought over the last 2yrs is the WURKKOS D70 diving light. The size and weight is just right even for everyday throw-it-in-the-truck use. It's absolutely built like a tank and the beam color is so perfect. The 13,000lumens is nice but I find low and medium is used the most. The simplicity of it has got me spoiled and makes even my good lights feel cheap.
I would (sorry, I will.. ) definitely get the 26800 tube for this light.. Not only it DOES make it look more like a "classic flashlight", but I can also use a spacer and an adapter to use a 21700 if I need max performance (I really don't find that mandatory though.. ) as I have both type cells AND benefit from some heat insulation on the 21700 when the light gets hot (also unlikely to happen, as I'm not after "top performance" and crazy otf Lumens count.. ) and from the thicker tube, thus more comfortable to hold and having longer run times. I wish Hank would eventually put some RGB indicator LED's in the switch and drop the front facing AUX RGB (if needed) and give us some rubber protective "sleeves" for his lights, something like those "virtually indestructible" lights like Stanley, Varta and what have you.. Ah, also some USB-C charging.. But as I'm seeing Hank following the industry standard of getting the most profit out of every little bit, I'll keep it only to the minimum with the buying and trying habbit.. (looking at those 26800 battery tubes threads.. I mean, really.. that is clearly a forced cash grab - Not nice!) Momentarily I'm quite happy with my new D4SV2 W1/LH351D (tho.. kinda bummed on the beam patterns with only 2 LED's per Ch.)
The dm1.12 definitely came from the same cad file, and it definitely has the same optic as the dm11. It's intentional of course. other manufacturers do this too. It Reduces manufacturing steps and inventory needed on hand to produce multiple lines. And keeps light "groups" looking similar. Other examples of Hank doing this, everything is identical up until the reflector / top of head: D1 & d1s (same design until reflector). k9.3 & K1 (same) Astrolux does this with their whole "EA0xx" line (Ea01, EA01s, EA02) and also their EC01 & EC03.
There are technical ways to boost a driver, the TM9K being just one, stock example. If Hank was going this route, perhaps it might have been better to go with multi-cell set-up, perhaps a 3 x 18650/21700 pop can. In any case, it's not going to heat soak terrible fast at... >1500L @ 30+ sec. which is kind of nice as a utility light. Still, I'd rather throttle a light back to that output and have the big lumens available temporarily. I can understand what happen with the design though. Hank wanted a TIR of a certainly size specification and that leaves a given radius, which happens to allow for 12 x LED's. Interesting nonetheless and a fun overview.
I like the idea of a super-flooder with 12 high-CRI diodes, but I think I’d rather have something with 3x18650 or 3x21700 for a lot more sustained brightness. It’s not like this is a super-compact light that you’re going to put in your pants pocket anyway. So I wouldn’t see it as too big of a drawback to have a wider battery tube and just have a pop can-style light that could sustain more lumens for longer. I wonder if there’s a dual-channel pop can style light like what I’m describing, that would also have the thrower in the middle?
Hank states the dt8 with 8x sst20 4000k has 4600lumens at turn on. 12 emitters should be brighter at the same amperage than 8 emitters due to the higher efficiency you get running each emitter at a slightly lower amperage. Also a P42 or 40t can push more amps than a VTC6 for example. I don’t think it’s just the battery. Something is off. Probably a less efficient or less powerful driver?
An E12r should be able to reach about 6000lumens with 12x sst20 4000k. Different driver, but still. It‘s not just the battery, which is holding the dm1.12 back.
At least KR4 and D4V2 dual channels use only 24AWG wires. No room for bigger ones. If this uses same wires, then that alone adds quite big resistance to the circuit. Spring(s) also contribute to increased resistance.
I won’t pretend to say I fully understand what’s going on here. I just know what my testing is showing me, and what Hank said when I emailed him about it.
@@cheule We are just figuring out what constrains the output. With 12*sst20 in this and 8*sst20 in DT8, current being the same, you should get more output from this. That's because leds are more efficient at lower currents. And high discharge 21700 offers more punch than 18650 in DT8. Edit: Some summary; DT8 promises 4600 lumens with 8 sst20's. So if same amount of power needed for 8 leds to output 4600 lumens is put through 12 emitters you should get more output from the latter.
This might be a stupid question but have you calibrated the temperature in Anduril2? I got a KR4 recently that had it set to 15-20 degrees higher than the actual temp, so it was throttling down like crazy. Once I set it up correctly, it could sustain turbo much longer.
Given how the single cell has to manage delivering amperage to 12 emitters, lowering amps per emitter to around 1.5, would it have made more sense for Hank to have designed the outer bank with either 6 or 8 emitters instead?
I have a hobby charger and I’ve fashioned some home made holders. But good news-this next week I’ll be reviewing a new Xtar charger that is specifically made to go up to 26800! Wait for that video!
All thing being equal, green throws farther because it is a higher intensity over white. Most of that has to do with our eyes having a peak receptivity at 555nm.
Good technical review but. … you could do with getting some decent been shots in the dark, your beam shots have ambient light . Trailtrek from the Uk tests stuff out in pitch black conditions.
I can see that, but living in SoCal, I pretty much only ever have the environment you see. Hopefully the comparison lights make it more “calibrated” to something you know.
@@cheuleI have ordered the dm1.12 in w1 and SST20 in 2700k. I’m very pleased with all the Hank lights i have so far. Apologies over the beam shots idea. I’m 15 mins walk from a pitch black countryside walk - yep that sounds like a flash a holics dream. In the uk we have 17+ hours daylight time in summer and down to 7hrs 30 mins in winter. I consider my d4sv2 w1/ lh351d to be my best all rounder torches. What do you think would be the best general usage throwy/flood combination for the dm1.12 I’m thinking of gifting one.
So to get the maximum flood channel you’d have to look at the output of each emitter option at 1.5 amps. Hmmm I like mine but was a little underwhelmed by the flood as well but it grew on me. I’m looking at another with the lh351ds or even the xpl hi even though hank said the xpl is an extra 40$ (ouch)
Great video as always, Cheule. I see the SBT90.2 is now an option for the throw channel... do you think it would work well in this light? Also, what do you think of the 219BT's for flood?
I was a tad surprised at the turbo output numbers too. Based on lygte's graphs, a 40T should have a 0.2v higher load voltage than a 30q at 20A. At 30A, the 40T should still be about 0.1v higher than a 30Q @ 20A. You would think that since it has a higher voltage at load and is capable of higher current, it would be able to overcome the higher forward voltage of the emitter as the current increases plus any additional losses in the circuit from FET or spring resistance. I'd be curious for someone to do a teardown and actually test the host's spring resistance along with the FET voltage drop/resistance. I wonder if this is actually a limitation of the springs or the FET itself.
I can’t speak for the forward spring, but I removed the tailcap and used large gauge wire to jump the host to the battery neg. I didn’t measure any increase in lumens this way, so I figured a spring bypass wasn’t going to help.
Sir, why does my DM1.12 switch turn off when the light is turned on? Also to separate the operation of the 2 channels seems wonky, one example is a double click for turbo will ways light both channels, no matter what channel is being used. Thank you.
The light runs Anduril. Anduril is very configurable. Think: you can set it up almost any way you can think of. I set it so both channel would not come on during turbo. I don’t want the extra drain/heat when I am flooding or throwing but not in need of both. To be exact, I actually have it set up to turbo both channels if I ramp to top of ramp and THEN click. That way I get the bets of both configs.
Thank you. Yes I see now on Anduril 2 flow chart for turbo configuration. I guess set each channel separately. What about the darn switch going off when I use the light?
Would have liked to see an outdoor comparison between the D4S and the DM1.12. Just to see how much throw the extra size is getting you (a lot, I’m sure - but do I need it?).
I don’t do turbo runtime graphs (just not set up to do it, and truth be told I personally don’t care much about runtimes and I don’t use my lights that way). But what you say makes sense. On turbo this light heats up slower than other hanklights.
Just curious, in the video, you commented on how Hank stated the reason you only achieved about 4,000 lumens on your light, was due the battery not being able to supply enough amps but, my Fireflies E12 has the same 12-SST20's and its output is much higher. Doesn't than seem to make his explanation open for more investigation into the true cause?
Get him to do a custom back end that's long with two cells in parallel, problem solved. Shat you're seeing is voltage sag under load. Volts plus imedance sets amps. Impedance may be non linear but it's still a sag issue.
@@cheule thanks I appreciate your help! Your channel is above all others btw!! Keep that shit up. You take so many factors into consideration and are prepared.
@@cheule Yes, it is the most highend torch I ever had in my hands. And we´ve got >800.000lm together, everything to MS18 and X70, but this little beast is most hq in all.
They may think so privately, but I have good relations with them. They know I’m a flashlight reviewer, and they sometimes knock on my door asking for recommendations.
Hey, newbie question, does anyone know how I'd charge this flashlight? Take out the battery and place it in a rechargeable adapter, or does the flashlight have USB C port?
While with the dm12.1 you might not get the increase in lumens that you might expect from the increased number of emitters you will get much better efficiency. The harder you drive an emitter the less efficient it is and the loss in efficiency is very significant. Personally I would get this light in the 26800 configuration. Whatever brightness you gain with a higher drain 21700 battery can't be sustained with this light for more than literally a couple seconds. I think this light screams 26800. That capacity with the light's inherent efficiency and choice of low power high throw w1 center channel emitters puts this light into the realm of heavy duty usage. Every 26800 I own tests well above 7ah.
I just got mine yesterday. I got red sst-20s on the outside for red light therapy and preserving night vision, and an SFT-40 in the middle, but after your video I wish I'd have gotten a W1 for throw. I didn't see it on the menu, did you do a special request?
Yes, if you get a flashing kit, you can reflash the firmware to do so. You use the K9.3 tint ramping firmware. I have no interest because the single battery is already so taxed with the 12 emitters.
I never owned an AceBeam X10, but the design is very similar! Obviously with Hank you get whichever emitters you want. He’s such a treasure for the community-limitless possibilities for emitter combinations.
Hanks osram nomenclature is his own and not intuitive. Perhaps a bit of a disservice and much cause for confusion. He calls a culnm1 a w2.1 and a culpm1 a w2.2, but when a cslnm1 is a w1 and a cslpm1 is a w2 then it doesnt make sense. This makes much more sense: w1 cslnm1 w2 cslpm1 W1.1 culnm1 W2.1 culpm1
It is a mess. I've gotten used to Hank's naming though. Here's a great explanation: davestechreviews.com/2020/12/12/osram-white-flat-leds/ This page has great pictures too: budgetlightforum.com/node/63255
![DOUBLE TROUBLE [Noctigon DM1.12]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vuFHHFaSGLw/mqdefault.jpg)
A flashlight looking larger in pictures than in person is something I've experienced with so. many. lights.
Thanks for the video!
It’s so tiny!!! It looks so big in the pics. What a beautiful design.
2 videos in a day?! We're going to get spoiled with all this good content!
"A little bit of criticism" about the look seems to be an understatement in my experience.
Great vid man! Interesting to see your thought process and how you evaluated this one.
Seems like Hank's upcoming boost driver would be a great fit for this DM1.12. Not sure that would ever happen though.
this Is a great video dude. Glad you showed the limited sustainability and Max output. Great things for people to know before they buy!
Love the knurling on these lights.
I have the DM1.12 in SST-20 2700K and SBT90.2. When compared to a D4V2 in XPL-HI 5000K, the brightness is visibly similar. Throw-wise, I compared it to a W1 in a Convoy C8+, while it may not throw as far, but it has a much wider hotspot that i consider more useful.
I agree and take it one step further, beside being awesomely made, rhe k9.3 unfortunately never made sense.. I've owned and sold 4 of them and could never find a reason to keep it. The dm1.12 looks so good.
Awesome video man. Nice job. I just got the shipping notification for my DM1.12 (I got the stone white version, so had to wait). Looking forward to checking it out.
Well glad to see you got yours. I'm still waiting for Hank to ship my white one
same
Also, I really like the grippy tube that some people have complained about because, at least for my very big hands, it isn't the easiest flashlight to grab a hold of.
Thanks! Took a minute but took care of getting the new light set up. works great!
Great review!! This DM1.12 peaks my interest especially having the the choice of modes from green thrower to flood. If you haven't checked it out, my favorite light out of the 20-30 lights that i've bought over the last 2yrs is the WURKKOS D70 diving light. The size and weight is just right even for everyday throw-it-in-the-truck use. It's absolutely built like a tank and the beam color is so perfect. The 13,000lumens is nice but I find low and medium is used the most. The simplicity of it has got me spoiled and makes even my good lights feel cheap.
Thanks for the recommendation.
Great video. Nice thorough review. Keep it up!
was waiting for this vid to drop! cheers! looks great
Been waiting for this! Thank you.
Years ago it was the Batman sign in the sky, now it’s the Green Hornet!
oh boy, oh boy, oh boy! I'm only 10 seconds in. So excited! Hah
I would (sorry, I will.. ) definitely get the 26800 tube for this light.. Not only it DOES make it look more like a "classic flashlight", but I can also use a spacer and an adapter to use a 21700 if I need max performance (I really don't find that mandatory though.. ) as I have both type cells AND benefit from some heat insulation on the 21700 when the light gets hot (also unlikely to happen, as I'm not after "top performance" and crazy otf Lumens count.. ) and from the thicker tube, thus more comfortable to hold and having longer run times. I wish Hank would eventually put some RGB indicator LED's in the switch and drop the front facing AUX RGB (if needed) and give us some rubber protective "sleeves" for his lights, something like those "virtually indestructible" lights like Stanley, Varta and what have you.. Ah, also some USB-C charging.. But as I'm seeing Hank following the industry standard of getting the most profit out of every little bit, I'll keep it only to the minimum with the buying and trying habbit.. (looking at those 26800 battery tubes threads.. I mean, really.. that is clearly a forced cash grab - Not nice!) Momentarily I'm quite happy with my new D4SV2 W1/LH351D (tho.. kinda bummed on the beam patterns with only 2 LED's per Ch.)
Oh my god! 😲 I HAVE to get one of these!
Hell yea another lengthy video from Cheule-.
The dm1.12 definitely came from the same cad file, and it definitely has the same optic as the dm11. It's intentional of course. other manufacturers do this too. It Reduces manufacturing steps and inventory needed on hand to produce multiple lines. And keeps light "groups" looking similar. Other examples of Hank doing this, everything is identical up until the reflector / top of head:
D1 & d1s (same design until reflector).
k9.3 & K1 (same)
Astrolux does this with their whole "EA0xx" line (Ea01, EA01s, EA02) and also their EC01 & EC03.
Except that changing the threads for the same tubes is a little obnoxious....not that many other manufacturers do the same. Ahhhh, marketing.
There are technical ways to boost a driver, the TM9K being just one, stock example. If Hank was going this route, perhaps it might have been better to go with multi-cell set-up, perhaps a 3 x 18650/21700 pop can. In any case, it's not going to heat soak terrible fast at... >1500L @ 30+ sec. which is kind of nice as a utility light. Still, I'd rather throttle a light back to that output and have the big lumens available temporarily. I can understand what happen with the design though. Hank wanted a TIR of a certainly size specification and that leaves a given radius, which happens to allow for 12 x LED's. Interesting nonetheless and a fun overview.
It would be nice to have quad channel light. You could have all kinds of emitters(maybe even RGBW). The D4V2 quad channel would be perfect flashlight
I like the idea of a super-flooder with 12 high-CRI diodes, but I think I’d rather have something with 3x18650 or 3x21700 for a lot more sustained brightness.
It’s not like this is a super-compact light that you’re going to put in your pants pocket anyway. So I wouldn’t see it as too big of a drawback to have a wider battery tube and just have a pop can-style light that could sustain more lumens for longer.
I wonder if there’s a dual-channel pop can style light like what I’m describing, that would also have the thrower in the middle?
I hear you. More sells would help sustain a huge deal. But I should point out this light is MUCH smaller that it looks on video.
Hank states the dt8 with 8x sst20 4000k has 4600lumens at turn on. 12 emitters should be brighter at the same amperage than 8 emitters due to the higher efficiency you get running each emitter at a slightly lower amperage. Also a P42 or 40t can push more amps than a VTC6 for example. I don’t think it’s just the battery. Something is off. Probably a less efficient or less powerful driver?
An E12r should be able to reach about 6000lumens with 12x sst20 4000k. Different driver, but still. It‘s not just the battery, which is holding the dm1.12 back.
At least KR4 and D4V2 dual channels use only 24AWG wires. No room for bigger ones. If this uses same wires, then that alone adds quite big resistance to the circuit. Spring(s) also contribute to increased resistance.
I won’t pretend to say I fully understand what’s going on here. I just know what my testing is showing me, and what Hank said when I emailed him about it.
@@cheule We are just figuring out what constrains the output. With 12*sst20 in this and 8*sst20 in DT8, current being the same, you should get more output from this. That's because leds are more efficient at lower currents. And high discharge 21700 offers more punch than 18650 in DT8.
Edit: Some summary; DT8 promises 4600 lumens with 8 sst20's. So if same amount of power needed for 8 leds to output 4600 lumens is put through 12 emitters you should get more output from the latter.
I wonder if the firmware is holding it back at all 🤔. I haven't checked the forums but I wonder if TK has her hands on one yet.
This might be a stupid question but have you calibrated the temperature in Anduril2? I got a KR4 recently that had it set to 15-20 degrees higher than the actual temp, so it was throttling down like crazy. Once I set it up correctly, it could sustain turbo much longer.
I absolutely didn’t! I think I mentioned as much in my video. And your point is well taken.
Look like kid toys. Love my Fenix LR40R
Given how the single cell has to manage delivering amperage to 12 emitters, lowering amps per emitter to around 1.5, would it have made more sense for Hank to have designed the outer bank with either 6 or 8 emitters instead?
I really think so. But what do I know.
@@cheule You know a lot! I've been watching you. 😏😄
How do you charge the 26800 monster, like where do you get a charger to hold it, all the ones I find just go up to 26650.
I have a hobby charger and I’ve fashioned some home made holders. But good news-this next week I’ll be reviewing a new Xtar charger that is specifically made to go up to 26800! Wait for that video!
Might be a noob question: Why is green desirable in the throw channel? Thanks! Getting ready to click ORDER. I'm addicted to HankLights!
All thing being equal, green throws farther because it is a higher intensity over white. Most of that has to do with our eyes having a peak receptivity at 555nm.
Good technical review but. … you could do with getting some decent been shots in the dark, your beam shots have ambient light . Trailtrek from the Uk tests stuff out in pitch black conditions.
I can see that, but living in SoCal, I pretty much only ever have the environment you see. Hopefully the comparison lights make it more “calibrated” to something you know.
@@cheuleI have ordered the dm1.12 in w1 and SST20 in 2700k. I’m very pleased with all the Hank lights i have so far.
Apologies over the beam shots idea. I’m 15 mins walk from a pitch black countryside walk - yep that sounds like a flash a holics dream.
In the uk we have 17+ hours daylight time in summer and down to 7hrs 30 mins in winter. I consider my d4sv2 w1/ lh351d to be my best all rounder torches.
What do you think would be the best general usage throwy/flood combination for the dm1.12 I’m thinking of gifting one.
So to get the maximum flood channel you’d have to look at the output of each emitter option at 1.5 amps. Hmmm I like mine but was a little underwhelmed by the flood as well but it grew on me. I’m looking at another with the lh351ds or even the xpl hi even though hank said the xpl is an extra 40$ (ouch)
Great video as always, Cheule.
I see the SBT90.2 is now an option for the throw channel... do you think it would work well in this light? Also, what do you think of the 219BT's for flood?
I think SBT90.2 basically requires multiple cells. It’s a monster of an emitter. I’d go SFT40 or OSRAM.
This is a really good and funny video
Did not think before i tex,that would make volt to high and burn it up unless they were in parrall
XPL center and sst20 cri for flood and white body. Now all hank has to do is ship it. It the 30th today!
I was a tad surprised at the turbo output numbers too. Based on lygte's graphs, a 40T should have a 0.2v higher load voltage than a 30q at 20A. At 30A, the 40T should still be about 0.1v higher than a 30Q @ 20A. You would think that since it has a higher voltage at load and is capable of higher current, it would be able to overcome the higher forward voltage of the emitter as the current increases plus any additional losses in the circuit from FET or spring resistance.
I'd be curious for someone to do a teardown and actually test the host's spring resistance along with the FET voltage drop/resistance. I wonder if this is actually a limitation of the springs or the FET itself.
I can’t speak for the forward spring, but I removed the tailcap and used large gauge wire to jump the host to the battery neg. I didn’t measure any increase in lumens this way, so I figured a spring bypass wasn’t going to help.
Awesome Vid!
Sir, why does my DM1.12 switch turn off when the light is turned on? Also to separate the operation of the 2 channels seems wonky, one example is a double click for turbo will ways light both channels, no matter what channel is being used. Thank you.
The light runs Anduril. Anduril is very configurable. Think: you can set it up almost any way you can think of.
I set it so both channel would not come on during turbo. I don’t want the extra drain/heat when I am flooding or throwing but not in need of both.
To be exact, I actually have it set up to turbo both channels if I ramp to top of ramp and THEN click. That way I get the bets of both configs.
Thank you. Yes I see now on Anduril 2 flow chart for turbo configuration. I guess set each channel separately. What about the darn switch going off when I use the light?
Found out from Hank about the faulty channel switching. Must use the ‘misc config’ 9H flash then 1C to fix channel switch issue. Works properly now.👍
Would have liked to see an outdoor comparison between the D4S and the DM1.12. Just to see how much throw the extra size is getting you (a lot, I’m sure - but do I need it?).
I could probably do that. Stay tuned for a quickie in a few days.
@@cheule awesome, thanks!!
There is one on Reddit now. It’s very brief though.
@@banboosy Going to film that tomorrow night. Stay tuned.
More emitters should mean better sustain in turbo mode though, dude to increased heat sync mass, area, and lower temp per emitter, right?
I don’t do turbo runtime graphs (just not set up to do it, and truth be told I personally don’t care much about runtimes and I don’t use my lights that way). But what you say makes sense. On turbo this light heats up slower than other hanklights.
You made my day Cheule I'm waiting on the white one sft-40 sst-4000k...can it run both channels at the same time?
Looks like a user on Reddit was able to flash the K9.3 ramping file onto it and got it to work!
@@thomasbechard nice thanks I will have to try that when it comes in
I sent an email to Hank about this, he said yes, it can run both channels up to the high setting but, only one channel at a time on turbo.
I think what you’re saying is that we need a multi-cell dm1.12 or a single-cell dm1.4….
Just curious, in the video, you commented on how Hank stated the reason you only achieved about 4,000 lumens on your light, was due the battery not being able to supply enough amps but, my Fireflies E12 has the same 12-SST20's and its output is much higher. Doesn't than seem to make his explanation open for more investigation into the true cause?
Actually we talked about the Fireflies E07X, and how it has about the same amount of lumens as well. Did you measure it yourself?
Very cool
Get him to do a custom back end that's long with two cells in parallel, problem solved. Shat you're seeing is voltage sag under load. Volts plus imedance sets amps. Impedance may be non linear but it's still a sag issue.
this is insane
Do you prefer this or the olight mini marauder for general outdoor flashlight use?
Marauder mini 100%
@@cheule thanks I appreciate your help! Your channel is above all others btw!! Keep that shit up. You take so many factors into consideration and are prepared.
The Acebeam X10 is the ultimate combine light in the 1 battery class. Did you ever had it?
I never had an AceBeam X10. You like it very much?
@@cheule Yes, it is the most highend torch I ever had in my hands. And we´ve got >800.000lm together, everything to MS18 and X70, but this little beast is most hq in all.
Lenticular, not elliptical optics on the K9.3. Great review, btw!
Mtn calls them elliptical? www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=68_69&product_id=466
@@cheule Well, if neither the lens nor the beam is elliptically shaped (oblong), it's just another one of those lost-in-the-Chinese-translation. :D
What battery do you recommend with this flashlight? I am planning on getting the sft-40 and the sst20
Samsung 40T or Molicel P42A
One thing I always wonder when watching your videos - do your neighbours think you’re nuts?
They may think so privately, but I have good relations with them. They know I’m a flashlight reviewer, and they sometimes knock on my door asking for recommendations.
Which tube do you like better balance-wise?
Balance wise goes to 26800
Hey, newbie question, does anyone know how I'd charge this flashlight? Take out the battery and place it in a rechargeable adapter, or does the flashlight have USB C port?
This particular flashlight would need a stand alone charger. XTAR makes some great 18350 / 21700 sized battery chargers for under $20.
@@cheule thank you so much! Love your videos!
I’m thinking SFT-40 center and SST 40 4K around the ring.
That’s what I would have picked if I wanted more lumens for the throw. I wanted max intensity instead.
One more thing, did you reflash yours to use both channels at once? Don’t know why hank didn’t make them that way to begin with
I did not, as I don’t want any more drain on the over taxed single cell.
Is there a way to find the 18650 tube for the manker? I have the mc13 but cannot find the tube anywhere!
You need a LONG tubeand two batterys to get the full lum then?? For more amperage right?
While with the dm12.1 you might not get the increase in lumens that you might expect from the increased number of emitters you will get much better efficiency. The harder you drive an emitter the less efficient it is and the loss in efficiency is very significant. Personally I would get this light in the 26800 configuration. Whatever brightness you gain with a higher drain 21700 battery can't be sustained with this light for more than literally a couple seconds. I think this light screams 26800. That capacity with the light's inherent efficiency and choice of low power high throw w1 center channel emitters puts this light into the realm of heavy duty usage. Every 26800 I own tests well above 7ah.
These are great points
I just got mine yesterday. I got red sst-20s on the outside for red light therapy and preserving night vision, and an SFT-40 in the middle, but after your video I wish I'd have gotten a W1 for throw. I didn't see it on the menu, did you do a special request?
Yes, it was a special request. I knew I wanted max intensity!
Is it possible to have both flood and throw active at the same time?
Yes, if you get a flashing kit, you can reflash the firmware to do so. You use the K9.3 tint ramping firmware. I have no interest because the single battery is already so taxed with the 12 emitters.
@@cheule Alright! Thanks 🙂
Good vid ... TMI
Compare it to the acebeam x50
The X50 would destroy the DM1.12
but can you get it with a picatinny rail mount?
Sorry, no! But there are rail mount clamps that will hold any flashlight. Bulky though.
How's it compare to the olight mini marauder?
How do I switch between spot and flood?
Click click hold
@@cheule that didn't work that's why I came here... What worked was 3 clicks... That's how mine cycles through modes. Is that normal?
The answer is Hank needs t6o move to 4695 Battery for you SST-20's
Improved/different AB X10?
I never owned an AceBeam X10, but the design is very similar! Obviously with Hank you get whichever emitters you want. He’s such a treasure for the community-limitless possibilities for emitter combinations.
I can't believe that Hank doesn't use the same threads on this, the DM11, and the D4SV2 so you can use the same 26800 tube. Absolutely absurd.
No argument here!
Different factories with different engineers, this is why not even the knurling is not the same on tubes, it's not like he makes them himself.
Hanks osram nomenclature is his own and not intuitive. Perhaps a bit of a disservice and much cause for confusion. He calls a culnm1 a w2.1 and a culpm1 a w2.2, but when a cslnm1 is a w1 and a cslpm1 is a w2 then it doesnt make sense.
This makes much more sense:
w1 cslnm1
w2 cslpm1
W1.1 culnm1
W2.1 culpm1
It is a mess. I've gotten used to Hank's naming though. Here's a great explanation: davestechreviews.com/2020/12/12/osram-white-flat-leds/
This page has great pictures too: budgetlightforum.com/node/63255
Hank can do a better job with the head benzel design :(
I don’t mind it!
This thing looks like my shower wtf
Shower of LIGHT