Great explanation. I'm about to wire mine up. I like your idea of putting the switch panel and fuse box on a platform, testing it out, and then installing it.
This was exactly what I needed. The other videos were adjusting the switch panel wiring and removing things to do it on their own, which confused me. Would the fuses on the fuse block be sufficient for a trolling motor and 50K lumen light bar? I’m new to electricity and was wondering. Thank you again.
Thanks for watching. Your fuse box will have an amp max (likely 100 amps). Your light bar box will tell you how many amps your pulling from it (that will help you know what size fuse to use too). You’ll have to do some math of other installed accessories to make sure your not over the max when in use..I would bypass the the fuse block with the trolling motor and add in a 30amp or 60amp (depending on your trolling motor) fuse on the positive wire. If you put “trolling motor circuit breaker” in Amazon you will see the options. Your hot (positive) wire run will go from battery to battery disconnect, disconnect to new circuit breaker, circuit breaker to trolling motor. Negative wire goes straight to negative post on battery. Hope this helps.
Do you need the battery shut off switch? What is the point of that curious? Planning to try to do this myself and this video’s super helpful. Good job man
Awesome explanation. What gauge wire you got there? Did you have to splice and add a different terminal connection? I have 4 and the terminal was far too big for the fuse connection lol
Thanks for watching! For my small LED lights I have 20 gauge wire ran and yes I had to add a correct size terminal connection! I also ran 16 gauge wire to my LED strips along the outside of the boat.
So I have basically the same set up minus the battery disconnect and my switches are a little different. How would I run the light to the switch but also to the fuse ? I’m just a little confused of this
If you’re wanting to avoid the fuse box, just wire in an in-line fuse on the positive (power/Red) wire running to each light. Put “in line fuse holder” in Amazon and you can order 6 for around $8. Just wire it in somewhere that you can access it. I would recommend right after the switch.
so if im using 2 batteries and i want the on seperate battery switches i will need 2 battery switches . my situation is this i have A 1978 35HP remote steer so im using a deep cycle battery for starting . then for my fish finder/radio im using a lithium battery . i saw another youtube where a guy has a 2 batter switch But he said u can only use 2 deep cycles bc when you put the switch to turn on 1&2 the batteries run in parallel and my 1978 evinrudes charging system is not compatiable with lithium . correct me if im wrong here please
Yes you can do two separate switches. I would not try to mix (or run Parallel) lithium with deep cycles on powering devices. It sounds like the other guy has ran his parallel so that the charging system from his outboard charges both batteries. He then just ran separate switches to Power what certain accessories he wanted on the switch. The problem with you doing that would be you trying to run the lithium and deep cycle in parallel. Easily just run two separate switches from each battery without connecting the two. Just have to remember to charge your lithium battery after use. I hope I understood the question correctly and helped.
@@Sappwildoutdoors yep i got it ended up doing 2 switches works perfectly . and on charging i actually found running a NOCO 2-Bank 10-Amp OnBoard Battery Charger the genius 5x2 -which has memory feature and can charge all 3 types (amg,deep cycle,lithium ) all you do is hook up whatever battery press the charge button which chooses the battery type then the next time you go to charge it remembers what type it was pretty cool feature i also added the 12V noco charge port so all i have to do is hook up and extension cord and it automatically charges both batteries worth it imo vs carrying 2 seperate style chargers around and 2 extension cords less bs to deal with !
Not you don’t have to have the fuse box but you would want protection by a fuse to protect your accessories. You can just wire an inline fuse holder on your power run to each accessory.
Hey man I don’t know of any other way to get in touch with you. And this may seem seem random, but I was wondering if you would be I rested in speaking at a wild game supper at out church?
Just add positive busbar..problem solved , only equipment need fuses.. battery switch to positive busbar. Busbar to your group of switches. Then fused each one of it run it down. If your switch and fuse block quite far. Add negative busbar again at your switches..then use 10awg wire to negative fuse block.
This could have saved my sanity today 😅 simple and answerd every question
Great explanation. I'm about to wire mine up. I like your idea of putting the switch panel and fuse box on a platform, testing it out, and then installing it.
Simple and to the point. Thank you.
More helpful than most longer videos. Thanks!
So how are the fuses going to work then ? If the power is on the rocker and the ground is on the buss bar there's no circuit for the fuse ?
theres a negative wire running from the switch that runs to the neg fuse to complete the current
Sometimes the Keep it Simple method is best. Awesome. Thank you.
sweet very helpful
Great video, very informative, thinking about adding some accessories to my little boat and this will help a lot. thanks
Thank you for watching!
Can u run positives from your devices in/out of your fuse board to your switches to have everything fuze protected?
Another good video. You're a smart man I know who to come see if I ever need something like this done.
Any time buddy. Thank you.
This was exactly what I needed. The other videos were adjusting the switch panel wiring and removing things to do it on their own, which confused me. Would the fuses on the fuse block be sufficient for a trolling motor and 50K lumen light bar? I’m new to electricity and was wondering. Thank you again.
Thanks for watching. Your fuse box will have an amp max (likely 100 amps). Your light bar box will tell you how many amps your pulling from it (that will help you know what size fuse to use too). You’ll have to do some math of other installed accessories to make sure your not over the max when in use..I would bypass the the fuse block with the trolling motor and add in a 30amp or 60amp (depending on your trolling motor) fuse on the positive wire. If you put “trolling motor circuit breaker” in Amazon you will see the options. Your hot (positive) wire run will go from battery to battery disconnect, disconnect to new circuit breaker, circuit breaker to trolling motor. Negative wire goes straight to negative post on battery. Hope this helps.
Nice video!👍
Thanks for watching and sharing. Much appreciated!
Do you need the battery shut off switch? What is the point of that curious? Planning to try to do this myself and this video’s super helpful. Good job man
What size wires going from battery to kill switch? And what size wire going from from fuse panel to switch panel to accessories?
So is the buss bar just for ground wire management?
Awesome explanation. What gauge wire you got there? Did you have to splice and add a different terminal connection? I have 4 and the terminal was far too big for the fuse connection lol
Thanks for watching! For my small LED lights I have 20 gauge wire ran and yes I had to add a correct size terminal connection! I also ran 16 gauge wire to my LED strips along the outside of the boat.
What fuse panel is that exactly on amazon? It's perfect. Thanks for simplifying.
Fuse box! a.co/d/iMv8IJs
What gauge wire do you use from the battery?
So I have basically the same set up minus the battery disconnect and my switches are a little different. How would I run the light to the switch but also to the fuse ? I’m just a little confused of this
I want all my lights to be protected with fuses since I am running bright leds
If you’re wanting to avoid the fuse box, just wire in an in-line fuse on the positive (power/Red) wire running to each light. Put “in line fuse holder” in Amazon and you can order 6 for around $8. Just wire it in somewhere that you can access it. I would recommend right after the switch.
so if im using 2 batteries and i want the on seperate battery switches i will need 2 battery switches . my situation is this i have A 1978 35HP remote steer so im using a deep cycle battery for starting . then for my fish finder/radio im using a lithium battery . i saw another youtube where a guy has a 2 batter switch But he said u can only use 2 deep cycles bc when you put the switch to turn on 1&2 the batteries run in parallel and my 1978 evinrudes charging system is not compatiable with lithium . correct me if im wrong here please
Yes you can do two separate switches. I would not try to mix (or run Parallel) lithium with deep cycles on powering devices. It sounds like the other guy has ran his parallel so that the charging system from his outboard charges both batteries. He then just ran separate switches to Power what certain accessories he wanted on the switch. The problem with you doing that would be you trying to run the lithium and deep cycle in parallel. Easily just run two separate switches from each battery without connecting the two. Just have to remember to charge your lithium battery after use. I hope I understood the question correctly and helped.
@@Sappwildoutdoors yep i got it ended up doing 2 switches works perfectly . and on charging i actually found running a NOCO 2-Bank 10-Amp OnBoard Battery Charger the genius 5x2 -which has memory feature and can charge all 3 types (amg,deep cycle,lithium ) all you do is hook up whatever battery press the charge button which chooses the battery type then the next time you go to charge it remembers what type it was pretty cool feature i also added the 12V noco charge port so all i have to do is hook up and extension cord and it automatically charges both batteries worth it imo vs carrying 2 seperate style chargers around and 2 extension cords less bs to deal with !
So is every item on the switch going through one fuse??
It seems that way.. I had the same question
@@mitchgreen700 Til this day I’m wondering still.
What size battery you running, is it one of those new lifepo4 ones?
In my mobile battery box it is an Amazon mighty Max battery. In the boat I I put in two group 27 marine batteries. Nothing fancy.
Do you have to have a fuse box?
Not you don’t have to have the fuse box but you would want protection by a fuse to protect your accessories. You can just wire an inline fuse holder on your power run to each accessory.
Awesome video! Your channel looks really cool! Just subbed too!👍
Thanks! I subbed your channel too. Love those pics of that collared coyote you got on your trail camera.
Thanks, I really appreciate it!
Hey man I don’t know of any other way to get in touch with you. And this may seem seem random, but I was wondering if you would be I rested in speaking at a wild game supper at out church?
I’ve never done anything like that but feel free to send me an email at my personal email - bowhunt526@yahoo.com
@@Sappwildoutdoors email sent
So the whole panel is running off of one fuse? What if one switch needs more power than another?
Just add positive busbar..problem solved , only equipment need fuses.. battery switch to positive busbar. Busbar to your group of switches. Then fused each one of it run it down. If your switch and fuse block quite far. Add negative busbar again at your switches..then use 10awg wire to negative fuse block.