Best demonstration I have seen as yet. You begin with an exp and simple diagram. You showed the size of wire and why. You showed and listed the components plus the tools for wiring connections. You explained what products are to be used where and why. You left no need to out no matter what level of knowledge the viewer had. Good job, your parents raised you right and your teachers did a good job too. Give yourself a raise. Oh and not only did you master your trade, you mastered how to do video production in an organized manner. Most importantly you care enough about your fellow humans to want to share what you have learned on your particular path of life. Some think kept knowledge is power. They are wrong. Shared knowledge benefits us all.
I thoroughly enjoyed this video. No filler, just good information delivered perfectly. I've been looking to re-wire my boat and most of what I've seen isn't this clear. Subscribed, liked and commented.
Great video! I believe the best safety precaution would be adding a fuse within 7 inches from the battery on the positive side, then the switch. ABYC standard. Great channel and thank you!
Excellent video! Thank you for sharing! When doing 2-to-1 connections I would add a bit of liquid tape on the two-wire side as the heat shrink tube cannot seal against water.
Great video! I broke a bunch of switches pulling pins.. doah! One option is to run those leads to the first switch so you can turn that indicator light on or off.
Great video. You could wire the small lights on the switches with the interior lights. That way when the interior lights are on so are the small lights in the switches.
The small lights are designed for that wire to hook to the accessorie side of a ignition switch. That way there's only power when the key is on. Usually, there's a main power wire to battery to power the switches, then that light wire goes to ignition or headlight switch. Easy to eliminate though since it's a boat and not a vehicle.
This is so much nicer than the often seen random not-working, inproperly-grounded, rats nest of nonsense that only works to operate one of the 6 things it should! Or is that only on my boats? 😆
Great vid Anthony, yhanks. Just finishing up my pontoon and now I’m watching your vid.🙄🙄 but happy to say I’ve done the wiring very similar to the way you’ve done your boat. But what I didn’t do was check my circuits as I’m going along. I was under the impression the battery had to be disconnected so no sparking when you’re wiring up a circuit? Cheers my friend…
This was beyond excellent. I'm new to living near a lake, from a city, and have kids who need to learn to fish. Oh, the rabbit hole I've fallen down, but this is excellent.
Excellent...EXCELLENT video Tony...the best I've found. Learned a bunch of new stuff & made it easy to follow along. Thanks for taking the time to put this together. You build an amazing boat!
I've got a 15' aluminum v hull i just want to put nav lights and bilge pump on a switch panel i watched this entire video and its like nothing stuck in my head. Electrical is not my thing 😅 You do amazing work tho I'm gonna save this video and watch again when i feel up to tackling my small project. Thanks.
Kudos to you brother!!! Best diy wiring description video I have ever watched. Thank you for this awesome video man. Very glad I found this. Beautiful work btw. Ill be sharing my video of my complete re-wiring on my 25' SeaRay Salmon Fishing boat in the spring and I will most certainly be saving this video to go back to while I'm doing it. Ryan, Ludington, Mi
Beautiful work man. For your switch panel, I've had a lot of luck with the blue sea systems weather deck (fused) switch panel. It has the fuses integrated into the switch panel, and it's super high quality. All you need to do is run a bus bar for the negatives. I've used it on many ORV builds, and several boats (including mine) and it works great, might be worth you checking out. Keep up the great work man.
Appreciate the feedback! Definitely could have used something like that in the boat in video as it was a bit more high end. I started with a lot of the parts in the video due to jon boats being more budget oriented. I'm beginning to branch out and try different things and parts in different price points. I'll look into what you suggested.
You are a bad boy! You definitely know what you are doing. Before you retire, I have to get a boat done by you. Great content. Please keep up the amazing work!
Great video! you should do a video on batteries. other than the cost difference. why choose lithium battery. What is the advantage over an old school battery. Are they wired differently, is the charging different.
Fully agree! And when people see the clean hidden things it builds confidence everything else that isn't seen or covered up was put together in a quality manner.
Thank you so much for this video and making it easy to navigate through different parts of it as well. Definitely what I’m using as I do some affine on my boat next week.
The only thing I really miss here is a main fuse for the battery itself, ideally directly after the battery switch. Additionally the main negative from the battery should be connected to mass (the hull structure in this case) as long as you don't use fuses that monitor and break both positive and negative line at once.
You are correct, a main breaker can and is commonly ran after battery between fuse box. I typically see this is bigger rigs and marine applications with more accessories but it would not hurt. I'm honestly not sure about the negative, I have heard debates on grounding to the hull. Thanks for the great input!
Grounding the negative battery connector is useful to detect (aka "blow the fuse") a positive voltage leak to the hull. In that case you either risk an electric shock (mostly negligible on 12V because the fuse will blow when the current gets too high) BUT you might damage an aluminium hull due to electrolysis, as the current hardly reaches the peak required to blow the fuse in that case. This is especially true for boats that stay in the water for a few days in a row (worst option a marina or mooring when the boat next to you has a grounded land connection). In brackish or saltwater the effect becomes even worse. The hull should in no way ever be used as a negative bus (to those of you out there who might misunderstand this)! Oh, and just in case I wasn't clear enough: Besides those two things you made an awesome guide to boat wiring!
Thank you very much. You sound very knowledgeable, and I definitely appreciate it. I'm always open to learn more and it sounds as if you have quite the experience! Thanks again!
Dont earth the hull asking for trouble really stupid idea you do not want the hull to be a cathode or anoide - dis similar metals should not be put into contact with each other if you do the harder metal should have less area than the softer metal - these boats are mostly old the aluminum is not as good as the stuff we get today they were thin due to the lack of welders and cnc type machines
Thank you so much for the video. I have a boat with a 24V for my outboard and a dedicated 12v for my trolling motor and bow fishfinder and nav light. Do you think its a better idea to have my accessories linked to my 12v or to my outboard 24v? what are the pros and cons of each?
The most informative video I’ve seen, great job. Everything I’ve done in the past I’ve soldered, I’m curious to know what ur thoughts are on the difference between that or using the but connectors you’ve used in this video
Thanks! I used to use solder connectors but ive found the crimp and heat shrink ones i use now to give a great connection, very solid finish. Less issues on install and quicker job. Just a preference
Thanks cuz. I've been wanting to do an updated wiring video for a while now. Kept putting it off. You can see why from the video, it was a lot of work to film!
Anthony, where do you get your ABS carbon fiber wall from? That stuff looks sick! I'm looking to make my own switch panel setup and need something to mount all my components on.
Your video is a great help for my rewiring project, thanks! Can I use 10 gauge wire instead og 8 gauge, to run from the battery to my kill switch/fuse panel? Thx
You definitely have to check the wiring you purchase Very Carefully - because a lot of Sellers are selling CCA - Copper Clad Aluminum not Pure Copper and it does not hold up like a Quality 100 Percent Pure Copper Wire.
Really great video but I have a question. If you didn’t remove the original jumpers on the switch panel (keeping the lower LED on the switch on) how do you run your accessory hot to the switch and then to the fuse box with only one available pin? Is there a butt connection somewhere? Thanks for doing these step by step videos!!
is it the same setup if you have an outboard motor? would you rather Q&A on youtube or do you have another way of contact I like where I can actually show so I don't assume
Great video, I appreciate the content. The diagram you drew was definitely helpful. If I have a on board charger where should I set it up at? Also will the kill switch support the on board charger?
On board charger just connects to the batteries then you plug it into a electrical plug. Doesn't have anything to do with boat wiring, fuses, or kill switches
Instructions are included with that specific FlowRite timer. Very simple. Same concept as the other accessories, just it's own switch with built in timer to control the livewell recirculation pump.
Earlier in the video you said that you were going to wire the volt meter so that it operates with the battery switch off. You would need to write directly to the battery for this, no? The entire fuse block is wired through the switch.
Hi I’m in the process of working my boat and it previously had a really for the bilge pump and aerator do I need to install new relays when wiring or do I just run it through a fuse like you did? Thanks.
How would you or can't you have two batteries, two Motors, both or each can start, the electronics and isolate both when not used, also shutoff switches.
You wired the switch for the light to come on! Mine do that standard don't need to wire the switch for the switch light to come on! You talk it up bro! That's how switch lights work😅
No. I wired it so the light only comes on when the accessories come on. The way they are wired from the factory they are always illuminated wether on or off. There's two lights on the swtches, I disabled the valet light that always stays on. I'm not sure what your talking about but if your lights only light up when activated then good for you. Not how any plug and play 5 pin switch panels come prewired but thanks for explaining to me how a light switch works.
Wow this vid is pure gold! Thank you! Is 2 to 1 the max you would recommend wiring to a single switch? Just used your code on tbnation btw thanks again!
Thank you! No. There's times I run 6-8 individual led lights off one switch/ fused circuit. With that, I personally don't like doing anything over a 2 to 1 connection though. So two lights into one then that lead goes 2 to 1 into another light and so on. In that case, I may drop the gauge down at the end to 12 gauge for ample juice but most time the smaller led lights can run on the 14. Again, for situations like this it is important to use good wire and connectors to prevent any issues. I would not recommend doing that with anything that has a high power draw but then again, those things usually run individually, its typically the lights I zone off and jump together. Thanks for watching sorry i didn't fully explain that in the video.
I personally don't like them. The ones I've used do not lock the wires in like a crimp, making it hard to keep wires in place when shrinking. Also thinner plastic with more flex and no internal glue. The crimp ones I listed are thick and have glue and dry really solid. I never liked crimps because they could pull but the hrat shrink cures that. I do use the solder ones on 18-22 gauge but that only because a crimp is really hard to do on those tiny wires.
This is a great video! In running my 8 Ga. Wire to the front of my boat to the trolling motor, can I somehow split that wire to not only feed the trolling trolling motor, but to also connect to a fuse block?
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I don’t even own a boat (yet) and somehow I’ve spent the last 40+ minutes watching a video on boat wiring. Very well done!
Much appreciated! Hopefully this will help if you ever get a boat.
Same
Best demonstration I have seen as yet. You begin with an exp and simple diagram. You showed the size of wire and why. You showed and listed the components plus the tools for wiring connections. You explained what products are to be used where and why. You left no need to out no matter what level of knowledge the viewer had. Good job, your parents raised you right and your teachers did a good job too. Give yourself a raise. Oh and not only did you master your trade, you mastered how to do video production in an organized manner. Most importantly you care enough about your fellow humans to want to share what you have learned on your particular path of life. Some think kept knowledge is power. They are wrong. Shared knowledge benefits us all.
I'm an incompetent mess, trying to build out a nice duck boat. Can't tell you how grateful I am for your videos.
I thoroughly enjoyed this video. No filler, just good information delivered perfectly. I've been looking to re-wire my boat and most of what I've seen isn't this clear. Subscribed, liked and commented.
thank you, i really learned alot. Rewiring my boat, i think im ready! :D
Thanks!
Want to say thank you. Found this extremely helpful. Was looking for awhile and nobody explains life you. So again thank you for your help
Great video! I believe the best safety precaution would be adding a fuse within 7 inches from the battery on the positive side, then the switch. ABYC standard. Great channel and thank you!
You are correct. Sorry I left that out. Thanks
@Anthony Jones thank you for pointing that out I have really no idea on my project trying to learn from you tube
How big should that fuse 7 inches from battery going into kill switch be
Excellent video! Thank you for sharing!
When doing 2-to-1 connections I would add a bit of liquid tape on the two-wire side as the heat shrink tube cannot seal against water.
Great video! I broke a bunch of switches pulling pins.. doah! One option is to run those leads to the first switch so you can turn that indicator light on or off.
You definitely can and I actually did that once. It just takes up a switch spot.
Great video. You could wire the small lights on the switches with the interior lights. That way when the interior lights are on so are the small lights in the switches.
Most definitely! Just trying to keep the process simple but absolutely an option.
I was thinking the same thing 😂
The small lights are designed for that wire to hook to the accessorie side of a ignition switch. That way there's only power when the key is on. Usually, there's a main power wire to battery to power the switches, then that light wire goes to ignition or headlight switch. Easy to eliminate though since it's a boat and not a vehicle.
This is so much nicer than the often seen random not-working, inproperly-grounded, rats nest of nonsense that only works to operate one of the 6 things it should! Or is that only on my boats? 😆
Haha! I've seen some crazy bad stuff, I know your only kidding lol. I've actually seen household outlets wired in a jon boat, that kinda blew my mind.
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats I'm sure you've seen it all! - great video and well done!
Not yet! Still feel like I'm just getting started! Thanks again fir tge feedback and support!
😂 we must have the same boat!!
Great vid Anthony, yhanks. Just finishing up my pontoon and now I’m watching your vid.🙄🙄 but happy to say I’ve done the wiring very similar to the way you’ve done your boat. But what I didn’t do was check my circuits as I’m going along. I was under the impression the battery had to be disconnected so no sparking when you’re wiring up a circuit? Cheers my friend…
This was beyond excellent. I'm new to living near a lake, from a city, and have kids who need to learn to fish. Oh, the rabbit hole I've fallen down, but this is excellent.
Much appreciated. Thanks for dropping by the channel. Welcome to the club!
Excellent...EXCELLENT video Tony...the best I've found. Learned a bunch of new stuff & made it easy to follow along. Thanks for taking the time to put this together. You build an amazing boat!
Awesome video on many aspects. Learned more about electricity and how to do what I wanted to do just in this video alone. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome . Even though I know how too I still watched the whole video . Nice job on explaining
Awesome, thank you!
I've got a 15' aluminum v hull i just want to put nav lights and bilge pump on a switch panel i watched this entire video and its like nothing stuck in my head. Electrical is not my thing 😅 You do amazing work tho I'm gonna save this video and watch again when i feel up to tackling my small project. Thanks.
This is a very awesome video well explained thank you
I'm going to be rewiring my boat this spring. Great video, explained your steps great.
Video really helped me out thanks brother and showing how you route everything and you take the time to explain everything!
No problem thanks for positive feedback cuz
Kudos to you brother!!! Best diy wiring description video I have ever watched. Thank you for this awesome video man. Very glad I found this. Beautiful work btw. Ill be sharing my video of my complete re-wiring on my 25' SeaRay Salmon Fishing boat in the spring and I will most certainly be saving this video to go back to while I'm doing it. Ryan, Ludington, Mi
Wow, just wow, incredible video and what an amazing job. I wish I could have you hookup the lights on my boat, it would be a dream come true!
Thanks man! Where you at? Im in Georgia cuz
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats Actually TN, but when I said dream I meant that I probably couldn't afford your fabulous work. :)
Thanks for the video👍
thanks for watching!
Beautiful work man. For your switch panel, I've had a lot of luck with the blue sea systems weather deck (fused) switch panel. It has the fuses integrated into the switch panel, and it's super high quality. All you need to do is run a bus bar for the negatives. I've used it on many ORV builds, and several boats (including mine) and it works great, might be worth you checking out. Keep up the great work man.
Appreciate the feedback! Definitely could have used something like that in the boat in video as it was a bit more high end. I started with a lot of the parts in the video due to jon boats being more budget oriented. I'm beginning to branch out and try different things and parts in different price points. I'll look into what you suggested.
You are a bad boy! You definitely know what you are doing. Before you retire, I have to get a boat done by you. Great content. Please keep up the amazing work!
Will do my friend! I'm not going anywhere. Thanks for the support, perhaps one day we can cross paths on a project.
Great video! you should do a video on batteries. other than the cost difference. why choose lithium battery. What is the advantage over an old school battery. Are they wired differently, is the charging different.
They usually have a longer run time, and also way lighter. Weight reduction is always good on a boat.
absolutely professional guide. I love your vids bud. Not sure if boat conversion is your full time job but I can see it can be easily.
I like to throw some shrink wrap over the heat shrink butt connectors just because I've seen so many of those connectors crack and expose the metal.
It definitely can be done, I'm not opposed to it. I haven't had any issues but added protection can't hurt.
Even though it's rarely seen it think a neat ,clean ,sanitary electrical system shows pride in your craftsmanship
Fully agree! And when people see the clean hidden things it builds confidence everything else that isn't seen or covered up was put together in a quality manner.
Outstanding video...thank you for taking the time to do this for your viewers...really appreciate it my friend!
No problem 👍
One thing to consider would be a heat shrink label printer to tag all the wires.
Great video alot good info learned alot thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much for this video and making it easy to navigate through different parts of it as well. Definitely what I’m using as I do some affine on my boat next week.
Thanks for the video. I'm Looking for a switch Label Printer. Can you tell me the one you use?
The only thing I really miss here is a main fuse for the battery itself, ideally directly after the battery switch. Additionally the main negative from the battery should be connected to mass (the hull structure in this case) as long as you don't use fuses that monitor and break both positive and negative line at once.
You are correct, a main breaker can and is commonly ran after battery between fuse box. I typically see this is bigger rigs and marine applications with more accessories but it would not hurt. I'm honestly not sure about the negative, I have heard debates on grounding to the hull. Thanks for the great input!
Grounding the negative battery connector is useful to detect (aka "blow the fuse") a positive voltage leak to the hull. In that case you either risk an electric shock (mostly negligible on 12V because the fuse will blow when the current gets too high) BUT you might damage an aluminium hull due to electrolysis, as the current hardly reaches the peak required to blow the fuse in that case. This is especially true for boats that stay in the water for a few days in a row (worst option a marina or mooring when the boat next to you has a grounded land connection). In brackish or saltwater the effect becomes even worse.
The hull should in no way ever be used as a negative bus (to those of you out there who might misunderstand this)!
Oh, and just in case I wasn't clear enough: Besides those two things you made an awesome guide to boat wiring!
Thank you very much. You sound very knowledgeable, and I definitely appreciate it. I'm always open to learn more and it sounds as if you have quite the experience! Thanks again!
Dont earth the hull asking for trouble really stupid idea you do not want the hull to be a cathode or anoide - dis similar metals should not be put into contact with each other if you do the harder metal should have less area than the softer metal - these boats are mostly old the aluminum is not as good as the stuff we get today they were thin due to the lack of welders and cnc type machines
Para mi usted es el mejor haciendo su trabajo👊💪 y mi bote favorito el que me enamoro fue el rojo😮ese bote quedo increíblemente hermoso💪👌👊
Outstanding content. Thank you so much for taking the time creating these resources.
Thanks for feedback and watching.
This video was AMAZING! Thank you for the detail. Great job and amazing build.
Thank you so much for the video. I have a boat with a 24V for my outboard and a dedicated 12v for my trolling motor and bow fishfinder and nav light. Do you think its a better idea to have my accessories linked to my 12v or to my outboard 24v? what are the pros and cons of each?
Probably the best boat wiring video I have seen and Ive seen a lot, very thorough, thank you!
That means a lot, thank you!
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats What label maker do you use?
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats What label maker do you use!?
Finally a wiring video I've been looking for
Hope it helps. Thanks
The most informative video I’ve seen, great job. Everything I’ve done in the past I’ve soldered, I’m curious to know what ur thoughts are on the difference between that or using the but connectors you’ve used in this video
Thanks! I used to use solder connectors but ive found the crimp and heat shrink ones i use now to give a great connection, very solid finish. Less issues on install and quicker job. Just a preference
Nice video. Helped me visualize everything alot better
where do you get the tackle tray? Its nice to see someone that does quality work. I love all of the attention to detail
Very helpful!! Can I use 14 gagefor all the basic wiring, Example, lights, horn, bilge? Bob
Nice bro you’ve got some skills
This video was awesome. Thanks.
What a great video; wish I had this when I did my boat ! Super helpful 🙌🏽
Thanks cuz. I've been wanting to do an updated wiring video for a while now. Kept putting it off. You can see why from the video, it was a lot of work to film!
The BEST Boat Wiring Video Yet! I didn't see a parts listing for the flip-switches panel for all the lights. Please pass along link for panel
I made the panel itself custom. The swtches come on a smaller panel. Here is the link:
8 Gang Switch Panel- amzn.to/3hJoE9w
Thank you sir!
What an amazing build and informative video. 👍
Much appreciated 👊
What a brilliant video and a big help cheers mate from Scotland
thanks for the support
NICE JOB
Thanks!
amazing video dude, this is really well made and everything is explained amazingly. This was such a big help.
Good to hear man! Thanks
great video loved the diagrams with explanations
Glad to hear it!
@19:04 whats that tackle storage rack? Custom fabrication?
Great video! Super clean. Saving this video for future use.
Nice! Appreciate the feedback.
Thank you very helpful, much appreciated 👍🏻👍🏻
No problem 👍
Anthony, where do you get your ABS carbon fiber wall from? That stuff looks sick! I'm looking to make my own switch panel setup and need something to mount all my components on.
12:30 My OCD brain shorted out when you put the bilge pump on fuse 10 but connected it to switch 1. 😋
The fuse box gets custom printed labels at the end indicating which fuse is what accessory
Your video is a great help for my rewiring project, thanks!
Can I use 10 gauge wire instead og 8 gauge, to run from the battery to my kill switch/fuse panel? Thx
Awesome stuff !!
Thanks!
Subbed nice job.
Excellent work Anthony thanks
Much appreciated
You definitely have to check the wiring you purchase Very Carefully - because a lot of Sellers are selling CCA - Copper Clad Aluminum not Pure Copper and it does not hold up like a Quality 100 Percent Pure Copper Wire.
How far can you have the switch panel from the fuse panel?
Really great video but I have a question. If you didn’t remove the original jumpers on the switch panel (keeping the lower LED on the switch on) how do you run your accessory hot to the switch and then to the fuse box with only one available pin? Is there a butt connection somewhere? Thanks for doing these step by step videos!!
Great work thank you
Nice bass!
bro good Beautiful work
Thanks!
What hangers are you using to hang your tools?
Pure awesomeness Anthony😊
Thank you👊
All
Your contents so educational.. I love it
Thanks so much man, i try!
Great video - thanks! Where did you get the switch panel blank?
I made it. It's sheet aluminum, i cut out all the holes and squares for the switches, wrapped in carbon fiber vinyl
Thank you
Thanks for watching
Great video! Keep up the outstanding work!
Thanks! Will do.
is it the same setup if you have an outboard motor? would you rather Q&A on youtube or do you have another way of contact I like where I can actually show so I don't assume
How are you dealing with switches, fuses and wiring for sonars and trolling motor to complement the accessory setup?
Great video, I appreciate the content. The diagram you drew was definitely helpful.
If I have a on board charger where should I set it up at? Also will the kill switch support the on board charger?
On board charger just connects to the batteries then you plug it into a electrical plug. Doesn't have anything to do with boat wiring, fuses, or kill switches
Great work!!
Great video! Just wondering what is that material you made the panel for everything to mount to?
Would like to see how you hooked up wiring for the timer
Instructions are included with that specific FlowRite timer. Very simple. Same concept as the other accessories, just it's own switch with built in timer to control the livewell recirculation pump.
Did you fit a main fuse to your main feed??
Earlier in the video you said that you were going to wire the volt meter so that it operates with the battery switch off. You would need to write directly to the battery for this, no? The entire fuse block is wired through the switch.
Hi I’m in the process of working my boat and it previously had a really for the bilge pump and aerator do I need to install new relays when wiring or do I just run it through a fuse like you did? Thanks.
You do awesome work
Thank you
Would it be fine for me to run this exact setup but attach the boat motor directly to the battery?
How would you or can't you have two batteries, two Motors, both or each can start, the electronics and isolate both when not used, also shutoff switches.
I just got a 12ft v shaped aluminum boat looking to get it redone like this. How much would it all cost
You wired the switch for the light to come on! Mine do that standard don't need to wire the switch for the switch light to come on! You talk it up bro! That's how switch lights work😅
No. I wired it so the light only comes on when the accessories come on. The way they are wired from the factory they are always illuminated wether on or off. There's two lights on the swtches, I disabled the valet light that always stays on. I'm not sure what your talking about but if your lights only light up when activated then good for you. Not how any plug and play 5 pin switch panels come prewired but thanks for explaining to me how a light switch works.
your a good man
Some would say otherwise, but I definitely appreciate the kind words!
Good work...If TRON had a boat.
Exactly what I thought lol. Thanks
How was that switch panel supposed work with those jumpers on it like that to begin with? That didn’t make any sense to me.
Wow this vid is pure gold! Thank you! Is 2 to 1 the max you would recommend wiring to a single switch? Just used your code on tbnation btw thanks again!
Thank you! No. There's times I run 6-8 individual led lights off one switch/ fused circuit. With that, I personally don't like doing anything over a 2 to 1 connection though. So two lights into one then that lead goes 2 to 1 into another light and so on. In that case, I may drop the gauge down at the end to 12 gauge for ample juice but most time the smaller led lights can run on the 14. Again, for situations like this it is important to use good wire and connectors to prevent any issues. I would not recommend doing that with anything that has a high power draw but then again, those things usually run individually, its typically the lights I zone off and jump together. Thanks for watching sorry i didn't fully explain that in the video.
Great guide. I'm making plan to rewire my boat, I assume you use 14 AWG wire from fuse box to accessories? Thanks
Yes. I just order it by the roll. Overkill for sime if the accessories but I'd rather have thicker wire than not enough. Thanks for watching.
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats thanks for the help. Please do ACR dual battery set up 😁
Where did you get the dividers for the tackle box storage? I am trying to find somewhere that makes them
I would contact Nate at Tiny Boat Nation Midwest. He knows the guy who made them. I got from Nate.
Solder heat shrink butt connectors are better than crimp connectors & can be found on Amazon
I personally don't like them. The ones I've used do not lock the wires in like a crimp, making it hard to keep wires in place when shrinking. Also thinner plastic with more flex and no internal glue. The crimp ones I listed are thick and have glue and dry really solid. I never liked crimps because they could pull but the hrat shrink cures that. I do use the solder ones on 18-22 gauge but that only because a crimp is really hard to do on those tiny wires.
Thank you! I Value your Feedback & Experience
Great work AJ - nice on the editing as well. Watched every second. I am truly impressed.
Thanks so much for the kind words,glad you enjoyed!
what size breaker do you use for a 56amp draw trolling motor?
Great Video..!!!!
Much appreciated! Hope it helps
This is a great video! In running my 8 Ga. Wire to the front of my boat to the trolling motor, can I somehow split that wire to not only feed the trolling trolling motor, but to also connect to a fuse block?