Prep wash is a kind of miracle universal solvent that has so many uses and rubber grease has proved so handy with all the stuff I have been doing with the brakes and clutch cylinders on the Austin. I had not been aware of either of these things until you mentioned them. Learning can come the long way round sometimes.
Had to Subscribe. Brings back memories of rebuilding the Gauges on my 70's CB Series bikes and my 77 Wing. Beautiful Work and so many useful ways to do things.....
Hi Peter, I’m in the process of refreshing the clock faces on my 1976 Honda 400/4, this is the second time I’ve done this as the vinyl ones I did about three years ago bubbled in the sunshine and became very annoying to look at out on the street! This time I’ve purchased actual printed discs that totally replace the original discs, plus I purchased two new crimping rings, rubber grommet and am now waiting for two new glass replacements from the same company in Holland. Which will arrive soon hopefully, and watching your video on how to do it with the little tips etc will make the job easier this time aroundZ, Thanks for that. Dave in the UK
Hey thanks Dave, I'm glad you liked the video. I'm sure you'll get the result you're after... particularly if you've done the gig before. Cheers and thanks again.
Peter Anderson yes I did make the jig and like you I lined the inner face with self adhesive felt! Keep up the good that you do also like your style and approach. 👍
Beautiful job and a tough job to boot. Love your pride in workmanship!!! I had an old 350 twin honda back in 75 and I wanted to clear the inside of the glass and that ring is a SOB!!! Ended up screwing the whole thing up but back then there were hundreds of salvage yards full of them. But nowa days forget it!!!
Excellent! I’m rebuilding a set of 1976 Honda GL1000 guages. Thank you. I really like the bicycle inner tube idea. That oiler is a gem of a tool. Might go to a sewing machine repair shop for advice to find something similar.
Really helpful. Thank you. I used the replacement bands from CMS for my UK CB500/4 which gave a good result. I also used black silicon sealant as my seals were shot. I just “piped” thin beads with the gun.
Fantasic upload Peter! In my opinion, your affinity for electronics permeated into this job. Brilliant end product. Thanks for sharing. Your expertise really came through in this video.
Those old GT Suzuki's with the plastic len's tend to mist up with time. I restored ones on a GT550 with a combination of T-Cut and clear wax polish. Firstly, apply the the T-Cut, with a soft cloth, rubbing in a circular motion on the lens, then buffing it off, then applying liquid wax, buffing it off, and repeating the process until the lens's come clear again. Believe me, it worked for me.
Wow, I’m so glad I found these videos. I’ve never restored a bike and I’m preparing to start the adventure. These videos are gonna be so helpful. Thank you.
Hi Peter WOW your a man of many talents, I have pick up so much from your vids, I think you would agree we none of us know everything so we learn something every day in life's college regardless of age! so thank you very much, ATB Wayne UK.
Nicely done Peter, it's like you've been doing instruments for years. With normal straight-out drives, like in most car speedos, the bottom end of the speed cup spindle sits inside the main shaft bearing in the magnet which is why the little bearing wears out. But in these angled drives the bottom end of the speed cup spindle sits in a bearing mounted on its own separate bracket as you saw. In this arrangement the spindle lower bearing barely does any work and so it will last forever. Good to chuck a little dob of oil in it anyway. I totally forgot those cable drives were angled downward, been a while since I've done a motorbike speedo. As for the speed cup seeming to be moving sluggishly, I was shouting at the monitor..."NOOOOO. It's meant to be like that." The upper speed cup spindle has a little cup or a disc (usually a little cup) that holds a tiny amount of silicone oil to dampen the movement of the pointer so it doesn't bounce up and down when going over a rough road. Most instruments have some dampening built in. When you come to doing the 750, remember it's meant to be there. Lastly, could you can scan the two 750 dials and post him a good quality exact 1:1 scan, that way you can keep the dials you have ? There is a way to do the dials at home if you want to devote some time to it. Anyway, as in my opening line on this comment, nicely done. I've been doing this work for years and I wouldn't have done anything much differently. :o)
a reliable way to get "good quality exact 1:1 scan", place a flat ruler in the frame when you scan the dial. Measure the output against the ruler afterward.
Thanks so much for your wonderful assistance Harvey, you made the job easy! It must have been pretty difficult to watch a novice particularly where that speed cup was concerned, but it all turned out well in the end. Thanks again, you're a legend, cheers.
No worries Peter, glad I could help in some small way. In fact I thought you did all the work like a pro. When you're ready to get the MG tacho working let me know.
Lots of great info here for me, thanks Pete. That looks to be the identical speedo I have on my '72 CB450, with the identical issues. Like you said, slow and steady on pinching the ring back on, a bit like re-skinning a door.
Nah... I'm subbing the XC door to a great and experienced guy. Glad you like the video, I've been pulling pointers from your channel as well, great knowledge all round. Stay in touch mate, cheers.
Excellent video! Would like to suggest an alternative to prying the stainless ring off. Using a Dremel or other rotary tool with a cutoff disc, cut straight through the ring, towards the bottom of the gauge to conceal the cut. Then spread the ring apart carefully to remove, just like a piston ring. You can also squeeze it a bit to reduce the radius, This way, when you reinstall it, it will hang on nice and tight.
I don’t have a bike, but found this looking for a way to restore marine gauges. With that being said, I would watch you do any instructional video you chose to do. Your accent is oddly soothing, your patience is wonderful, and you resourcefulness is amazing. I don’t know if you will ever read this comment, but if you do, please make more videos on anything you choose to. Vacuum cleaners, toasters, space shuttles, whatever. Cheers from the U.S!
Briliant video I'm about to fix my K2 Gauges up. You mention a UK supplier (Classic) any chance you can give us a link please? I've found classic bike parts Cheshire is that them? Cheers Smiffy (UK)
Hi Peter, I followed your video to also fit a "Classic _Gauges" dial overlay and it worked fine. My Honda XL125 speedo dosn't have an alloy rim but is plastic and part of the plastic casing, but I prised the plastic apart as you did with your alloy rim.
There should be a metal tipping die, almost the reverse of a can opener to peel back the ring on these gauges. Hand crank or electric, but either way we all know basically how the were crimped together, it is getting ring off when the housing is plastic. As everything else is plastic. But a sharp edge plow to place into the back of the ring, then lick a can opener, roll it against itself while having a side crank to pull out until the radius is larger enough to take it apart. I own a 1969 Datsun 1600 Roadster that is also called the “Fair Lady” around the world, but most interesting is the fact the gauges have a true glass face. The can comes apart in a proper fashion from behind. Cleaning, lube, wiping the face but making it like new again was easy. Plastic housing require the ring to be captured and rolled onto itself. Otherwise cracking the housing is a real possibility. I have open instrument cluster on an American car, a 1981 El Camino, half car, half truck. Regardless how I try, removing the speedo needle, it breaks. I can’t find parts only used ones for $100 or like 50lbs sterling! Anyone know where to find a tiny $2 part without paying and arm and a leg? I would appreciate it. DK, certified automotive ASE Master Tech since 1978, retired, of course fixing someone’s else’s car again, my youngest son, 35 years old. Thanks again as this is more on this subject I have ever seen! Inside I can fix, getting a 50 yr old needle off and breaking it, is completely different! Now I sound like Monty Python. Walk this way!!!?
Thanks Peter, your video has given me the confidence open-up and to try making one Rev-counter from 2 incomplete ones that I've got to hand out in Brazil for my 1975 RD350 , and parts are pretty difficult to come by here, post is a mess and and what the hell, I'm going to give it a try & I definitely was not prepared to do this before assisting your excellent video!
Perfect, glad i found your video on this. Appears my XT500 instruments are pretty much resembling the one shown in the video. Lots of useful hints. Should have watched the video before i got started on mine. Thanks!
My father gave me one of those needle oilers decades ago. I don't use it often, but when I need one, nothing else will do. I think they used them for oiling fine machine parts. (He was in charge of tooling for a very large manufacturing firm.) I also think they used a similar oiler for sewing machines.
Great video. Made myself a little wood plate to disassemble and it came apart fine. Can re use the rings. My problem is getting the inner blue/white apart from the outer housing which need paint and cleaning and I don't think you showed having a problem. Guess they are just stuck. Might be worth mentioning on mine (k6) I got the ring all the way off the speedo, Opened it enough to get a pair of needle nose plyers on the nut on the reset shaft and the twisted the reset nob to the right (left hand threads, and it threaded off. also when removing the needles with spoons, mine were so tight I had to rotate the needle to get the spoons over the screws or I would have broken the old face plate. Then they came off.
Best speedo fixit video I've seen. I love the British 'mess with it 'til it works' attitude. Great work. Now I'll have a go at it. It'd help if you talked a little slower for us not-so-sharp people. Would you elaborate on the seal for the odometer shaft?
I was quoted £450 to do the tacho and speedo on my 400/4 watched this and bought the bits off the bay a bit of patience and I saved £390! Though I had to invest 4 hrs of my time.
I'm really enjoying seeing the 2 hondas being restored so beautifully. The tank you were given for the 750 is really well done, but it just doesn't look right to me. I would prefer the stock paint job, it's classic and gorgeous.
Hi Peter, I'm trying to figure out why the gauges on my 74 XL175 and XL350 are slow to move when riding. They seem to sit at the peak spot that I either hit speed wise or RPM wise and slowly (VERY slowly) return to "zero" when I stop. What mechanism inside needs lubed and it is easy to get to without worrying about springs flying off or anything else I could easily ruin if I take it apart? Ive tried spraying some lube into the worm gear that the cables plug into but not having any luck getting them to free up. Thanks for any help you can provide!
Hello, the needles are meant to be slow on return, so not to jump around too much - but I'm not sure about that slow. I don't remember what was suggested to lubricate them with... I used a very small amount of sewing machine oil, but I don't recall what the instrument builder told when we discussed it later on, cheers.
Another brilliant video, the most satisfying vids on TH-cam. Thanks for uploading. We will pretend we didn't notice you knock a couple of thousand miles off 👍
Cheap lubricator is a syringe for sewing machines, under 15 bucks on Fleabay. Use mine all the time, item# 263983321865. Squeeze tube like the old fountain pen. Great video again, cheers.
Hey Peter, I was going to send them away but with the cost and seeing your video I'm going to attempt these myself...Thanks! Can you tell me where you located the new faces?
I've seen them like that before, just had to do something about it... it's like having a new whiz-bang high powered computer with a busted monitor haha, cheers.
Hey Peter, nice video! I am going to watch the rest of it once I have my clocks apart. They are SL125 and do not have the ring bezel so looks like a sealed plastic base. Do you have any advice for cracking these old beauties? Thanks, Al
So Idea! when trying to recrimp the ring what if? You get a piece of pvc pipe the size of ring that fits over speedo and place in vise and squeeze crimp it back all at once ?
Thanks, I bought them on eBay... it was a place in the UK, the decals were really good quality. I can't remember the name of the place, but should come up with a Google search. If you're still stuck let me know and I'll dig deeper, cheers.
Peter, great vid i asked you before where to get the overlays but your supplier wasnt interested for my honda hornet. Ive recently found an ebay seller from Poland called venoxy who is happy to do odball and custom all they want is a scan of the gauge face emailed to them. They communicate well and quickly. I will update on their product after order and use but they sound great and no risk posting stuff away possibly never to see it again. Regards Bob
Thanks for that Bob, I need to get my 750 ones done, but if they do get lost, I'm screwed as the K8 is non-existent here and K7's are extremely rare. The supplier I used did astonishing work, but I just didn't want to post the faces, cheers.
Excellent explanation of the task. I really liked the jig and wooden frame to hold the gauge while you were working on it.
Prep wash and rubber grease. Two of the most important things I have learned from watching your videos. Excellent!
Thanks Pauline! Cheers.
Prep wash is a kind of miracle universal solvent that has so many uses and rubber grease has proved so handy with all the stuff I have been doing with the brakes and clutch cylinders on the Austin. I had not been aware of either of these things until you mentioned them. Learning can come the long way round sometimes.
Just got myself a 73 CB350 American import and found this video very good as I need to refurbish my gauges (and a lot more). Good diy skills, thanks
Had to Subscribe. Brings back memories of rebuilding the Gauges on my 70's CB Series bikes and my 77 Wing. Beautiful Work and so many useful ways to do things.....
Ahhh, great way to end a Sunday night. Thanks for the upload Peter.
You are a genius ! Besides the Technic , which you've got , there is passion on reborn those beauties . Thanks for letting me know !
Excellent work Peter. Im going to refer to this often. Thank you thank you.
Hi Peter, I’m in the process of refreshing the clock faces on my 1976 Honda 400/4, this is the second time I’ve done this as the vinyl ones I did about three years ago bubbled in the sunshine and became very annoying to look at out on the street!
This time I’ve purchased actual printed discs that totally replace the original discs, plus I purchased two new crimping rings, rubber grommet and am now waiting for two new glass replacements from the same company in Holland.
Which will arrive soon hopefully, and watching your video on how to do it with the little tips etc will make the job easier this time aroundZ,
Thanks for that.
Dave in the UK
Hey thanks Dave, I'm glad you liked the video. I'm sure you'll get the result you're after... particularly if you've done the gig before. Cheers and thanks again.
Peter Anderson yes I did make the jig and like you I lined the inner face with self adhesive felt! Keep up the good that you do also like your style and approach. 👍
Beautiful job and a tough job to boot. Love your pride in workmanship!!! I had an old 350 twin honda back in 75 and I wanted to clear the inside of the glass and that ring is a SOB!!! Ended up screwing the whole thing up but back then there were hundreds of salvage yards full of them. But nowa days forget it!!!
Excellent! I’m rebuilding a set of 1976 Honda GL1000 guages. Thank you. I really like the bicycle inner tube idea. That oiler is a gem of a tool. Might go to a sewing machine repair shop for advice to find something similar.
Really helpful. Thank you. I used the replacement bands from CMS for my UK CB500/4 which gave a good result. I also used black silicon sealant as my seals were shot. I just “piped” thin beads with the gun.
It is sundayafternoon here and i just refreshed the page. And there you are!
Make way make way!
Coke sofa and a new Anderson is out!
So good. Just really enjoy the attention to detail in all your work.
One of the best videos on the net. It's a great deal of learning. Thanks Peter.
Very neat Peter. You covered the external painting which I wasn't sure of. Lovely result.
Fantasic upload Peter!
In my opinion, your affinity for electronics permeated into this job. Brilliant end product. Thanks for sharing. Your expertise really came through in this video.
Thanks Andy, wonderful of you to say, cheers.
Excellent video. Some great innovation. I'm restoring guages right now. I'm going to stop & make the jigs & tools you used.
Those old GT Suzuki's with the plastic len's tend to mist up with time. I restored
ones on a GT550 with a combination of T-Cut and clear wax polish. Firstly, apply
the the T-Cut, with a soft cloth, rubbing in a circular motion on the lens, then buffing
it off, then applying liquid wax, buffing it off, and repeating the process until the
lens's come clear again. Believe me, it worked for me.
You are such a great help. Now my speedo is all shined up and the lens is clean! Cheers
You're most welcome and thanks for the comment!
Wow, I’m so glad I found these videos. I’ve never restored a bike and I’m preparing to start the adventure. These videos are gonna be so helpful. Thank you.
Another beautiful job i'm really enjoying these bike rebuilds keep up the great work.
What a brilliant job Peter! You need to do that stuff full time. Thanks for the great video.
Hi Peter WOW your a man of many talents, I have pick up so much from your vids, I think you would agree we none of us know everything so we learn something every day in life's college regardless of age! so thank you very much, ATB Wayne UK.
It's my pleasure Wayne and thanks for leaving such a great comment, cheers.
Really enjoyed video; the gig and tools were brilliant!
great video and your very skilled too mate ! Thanks for sharing.
Great Video! You make it look easy. I'm ready to give it a go! Cheers.
So satisfying, great job.
Nicely done Peter, it's like you've been doing instruments for years. With normal straight-out drives, like in most car speedos, the bottom end of the speed cup spindle sits inside the main shaft bearing in the magnet which is why the little bearing wears out. But in these angled drives the bottom end of the speed cup spindle sits in a bearing mounted on its own separate bracket as you saw. In this arrangement the spindle lower bearing barely does any work and so it will last forever. Good to chuck a little dob of oil in it anyway. I totally forgot those cable drives were angled downward, been a while since I've done a motorbike speedo.
As for the speed cup seeming to be moving sluggishly, I was shouting at the monitor..."NOOOOO. It's meant to be like that."
The upper speed cup spindle has a little cup or a disc (usually a little cup) that holds a tiny amount of silicone oil to dampen the movement of the pointer so it doesn't bounce up and down when going over a rough road. Most instruments have some dampening built in. When you come to doing the 750, remember it's meant to be there.
Lastly, could you can scan the two 750 dials and post him a good quality exact 1:1 scan, that way you can keep the dials you have ?
There is a way to do the dials at home if you want to devote some time to it.
Anyway, as in my opening line on this comment, nicely done. I've been doing this work for years and I wouldn't have done anything much differently. :o)
a reliable way to get "good quality exact 1:1 scan", place a flat ruler in the frame when you scan the dial. Measure the output against the ruler afterward.
Thanks so much for your wonderful assistance Harvey, you made the job easy! It must have been pretty difficult to watch a novice particularly where that speed cup was concerned, but it all turned out well in the end. Thanks again, you're a legend, cheers.
No worries Peter, glad I could help in some small way. In fact I thought you did all the work like a pro. When you're ready to get the MG tacho working let me know.
Lots of great info here for me, thanks Pete. That looks to be the identical speedo I have on my '72 CB450, with the identical issues. Like you said, slow and steady on pinching the ring back on, a bit like re-skinning a door.
Nah... I'm subbing the XC door to a great and experienced guy. Glad you like the video, I've been pulling pointers from your channel as well, great knowledge all round. Stay in touch mate, cheers.
Excellent informative video. I really enjoyed your presentation style, many thanks.
i could barely look when you were opening the speedometer mechanism - great video and great detail on restoring this intricate component.
Thank you for dowel and pintle You're the first one to not call them dowel pin and pintle pin.
Learned so much from this. My XT500 speedo and tach issues are not nearly so frightening now. Thanks.
A great help, thanks.
Now I am happy to give it a go. A bloody lot cheaper and more satisfying than buying new clocks !
Excellent video! Would like to suggest an alternative to prying the stainless ring off. Using a Dremel or other rotary tool with a cutoff disc, cut straight through the ring, towards the bottom of the gauge to conceal the cut. Then spread the ring apart carefully to remove, just like a piston ring. You can also squeeze it a bit to reduce the radius, This way, when you reinstall it, it will hang on nice and tight.
ideal for these quarantine days, excellent video! greetings from Argentina.
Nicely done Pierre!
Pete
You do amazing work Peter
Nice job Pete, fiddly job but came up very well, bit of laugh with the daughter horsing around with camera, as well.
Yes, she can be a silly one, cheers.
Great video nice tools you made also for the job. Good work.
Excellent how to video best I've seen so far thanks for sharing 👍
Brilliant, thanks!
I don’t have a bike, but found this looking for a way to restore marine gauges. With that being said, I would watch you do any instructional video you chose to do. Your accent is oddly soothing, your patience is wonderful, and you resourcefulness is amazing. I don’t know if you will ever read this comment, but if you do, please make more videos on anything you choose to. Vacuum cleaners, toasters, space shuttles, whatever. Cheers from the U.S!
Thanks so much, I'm glad you liked the video, cheers.
Briliant video I'm about to fix my K2 Gauges up. You mention a UK supplier (Classic) any chance you can give us a link please? I've found classic bike parts Cheshire is that them? Cheers Smiffy (UK)
I have done this more times than I care to say. I sure did enjoy watching how you did this! Nicely done video!
Hi Peter, I followed your video to also fit a "Classic _Gauges" dial overlay and it worked fine. My Honda XL125 speedo dosn't have an alloy rim but is plastic and part of the plastic casing, but I prised the plastic apart as you did with your alloy rim.
Riveting thanks Pete, your guidance will help no end when I get round to the instruments on my 500. Brilliant tutorial :-)
Really enjoyed that one. Thanks Peter.
you are so organised, that,s what i need to be.
That is the first video of yours I've watched. Well done and very helpful
There should be a metal tipping die, almost the reverse of a can opener to peel back the ring on these gauges. Hand crank or electric, but either way we all know basically how the were crimped together, it is getting ring off when the housing is plastic. As everything else is plastic. But a sharp edge plow to place into the back of the ring, then lick a can opener, roll it against itself while having a side crank to pull out until the radius is larger enough to take it apart.
I own a 1969 Datsun 1600 Roadster that is also called the “Fair Lady” around the world, but most interesting is the fact the gauges have a true glass face. The can comes apart in a proper fashion from behind. Cleaning, lube, wiping the face but making it like new again was easy.
Plastic housing require the ring to be captured and rolled onto itself. Otherwise cracking the housing is a real possibility.
I have open instrument cluster on an American car, a 1981 El Camino, half car, half truck. Regardless how I try, removing the speedo needle, it breaks. I can’t find parts only used ones for $100 or like 50lbs sterling! Anyone know where to find a tiny $2 part without paying and arm and a leg? I would appreciate it.
DK, certified automotive ASE Master Tech since 1978, retired, of course fixing someone’s else’s car again, my youngest son, 35 years old.
Thanks again as this is more on this subject I have ever seen! Inside I can fix, getting a 50 yr old needle off and breaking it, is completely different! Now I sound like Monty Python. Walk this way!!!?
Hi that’s one great video to watch really nice love your videos always great to watch great content
Thanks Peter, your video has given me the confidence open-up and to try making one Rev-counter from 2 incomplete ones that I've got to hand out in Brazil for my 1975 RD350 , and parts are pretty difficult to come by here, post is a mess and and what the hell, I'm going to give it a try & I definitely was not prepared to do this before assisting your excellent video!
Nice job! I would have cleaned the numbers also. Cheers from Canada
Perfect, glad i found your video on this. Appears my XT500 instruments are pretty much resembling the one shown in the video. Lots of useful hints. Should have watched the video before i got started on mine. Thanks!
Great Video, thanks for that greedings from Germany
Couldn’t agree with you more, you can’t be in a hurry rebuilding these.
"I want to put a spot of oil in the bush" - why does that remind me of my married life?
"I've never been in one of these this deep, if you know what I mean"
Hey good job...Looks great..
Thank you! Cheers!
My father gave me one of those needle oilers decades ago. I don't use it often, but when I need one, nothing else will do.
I think they used them for oiling fine machine parts. (He was in charge of tooling for a very large manufacturing firm.) I also think they used a similar oiler for sewing machines.
grandfather clocks and in my family's case transmissions. Particularly the oiling the valves and parts in the bores for easy installation.
Great video. Made myself a little wood plate to disassemble and it came apart fine. Can re use the rings. My problem is getting the inner blue/white apart from the outer housing which need paint and cleaning and I don't think you showed having a problem. Guess they are just stuck. Might be worth mentioning on mine (k6) I got the ring all the way off the speedo, Opened it enough to get a pair of needle nose plyers on the nut on the reset shaft and the twisted the reset nob to the right (left hand threads, and it threaded off. also when removing the needles with spoons, mine were so tight I had to rotate the needle to get the spoons over the screws or I would have broken the old face plate. Then they came off.
I love the gages peat man sweet resto cool
Thanks sir!
Thank you that was very informative. I'm gathering knowledge so I can tackle my 1974 Yamaha RD250 clocks
Thanks for a great informative video, could you post a link to the gauge overlays. Thanks.
Thank you Peter, I really enjoyed that. I think I have one of those little oilers in my dads old tool box as well.
Best how to I have seen . Thanks. pete.
That was excellent work, heart in the mouth stuff, thank you for the tutorial,
Best speedo fixit video I've seen. I love the British 'mess with it 'til it works' attitude. Great work. Now I'll have a go at it.
It'd help if you talked a little slower for us not-so-sharp people.
Would you elaborate on the seal for the odometer shaft?
that's the life saviour for me, thank you very much for sharing your work :)
You're most welcome Shahab, I'm glad you liked it, cheers.
I was quoted £450 to do the tacho and speedo on my 400/4 watched this and bought the bits off the bay a bit of patience and I saved £390! Though I had to invest 4 hrs of my time.
That's brilliant, cheers!
Clean up, aisle 5! Some dude dropping stuff everywhere...
They look great. I will have to do my cb500 four ones now
I'm really enjoying seeing the 2 hondas being restored so beautifully. The tank you were given for the 750 is really well done, but it just doesn't look right to me. I would prefer the stock paint job, it's classic and gorgeous.
About that lube oil pen, you can buy those for RC cars etc. Lots of good oils for different types of applications 👍
Great point! Thanks.
Hi Peter, I'm trying to figure out why the gauges on my 74 XL175 and XL350 are slow to move when riding. They seem to sit at the peak spot that I either hit speed wise or RPM wise and slowly (VERY slowly) return to "zero" when I stop. What mechanism inside needs lubed and it is easy to get to without worrying about springs flying off or anything else I could easily ruin if I take it apart? Ive tried spraying some lube into the worm gear that the cables plug into but not having any luck getting them to free up. Thanks for any help you can provide!
Hello, the needles are meant to be slow on return, so not to jump around too much - but I'm not sure about that slow. I don't remember what was suggested to lubricate them with... I used a very small amount of sewing machine oil, but I don't recall what the instrument builder told when we discussed it later on, cheers.
Great video and much appreciated
Another brilliant video, the most satisfying vids on TH-cam. Thanks for uploading. We will pretend we didn't notice you knock a couple of thousand miles off 👍
Ahem... a wee haircut, but easier to dial a base number than screw around trying to find where it was, didn't want to break it! Cheers.
Complimenti ottimo lavoro, ci vuole molta molta pazienza, è un lavoretto che vorrei provare pure io...
Cheap lubricator is a syringe for sewing machines, under 15 bucks on Fleabay.
Use mine all the time, item# 263983321865. Squeeze tube like the old fountain pen.
Great video again, cheers.
where did you get the vinyl guage interface? can you get these for lots of different makes and models?
thanks for the video!
I was thinking about the same thing.
Hey Peter, I was going to send them away but with the cost and seeing your video I'm going to attempt these myself...Thanks! Can you tell me where you located the new faces?
A really useful video - thanks
By using an abrasive (wire wheel) on those nuts, haven't you taken the protective coating off that will prevent them from rusting? ?
Subbed after watching this. Hopefully may help with my gauge-erratically bouncing speed needle
I'm wondering if you use squaleen oil as lubricant on the pintle or what , ?😊
I seriously thought that gauge face was some god awful aftermarket job with lighting bolts all over it.
So did I.... :-)
I've seen them like that before, just had to do something about it... it's like having a new whiz-bang high powered computer with a busted monitor haha, cheers.
Hey Peter, nice video! I am going to watch the rest of it once I have my clocks apart. They are SL125 and do not have the ring bezel so looks like a sealed plastic base. Do you have any advice for cracking these old beauties? Thanks, Al
Could you please tell where did you order the odometer panel sticker? If able to send me the link that would be great 🙂
It was off a UK seller on eBay, I'll see if I can find them, cheers.
So Idea! when trying to recrimp the ring what if? You get a piece of pvc pipe the size of ring that fits over speedo and place in vise and squeeze crimp it back all at once ?
What is your painting process? I didn't catch what you sprayed before the primer.
You could use a piston ring holder clamp for the ring with no dent.
Great job!!!
Where did you buy the decals?
Thanks, I bought them on eBay... it was a place in the UK, the decals were really good quality. I can't remember the name of the place, but should come up with a Google search. If you're still stuck let me know and I'll dig deeper, cheers.
@@PeterAndersons have you a draw of your fitting wood tool you use to fix in place the speedo when you work on it?
Yes. You definitely want a small hole to hang on to the shaft.
Did I say that? Sounds a bit dubious doesn't it?
lol among other things, yes you did say that. LOL
Where to find new sticker?
Peter, great vid i asked you before where to get the overlays but your supplier wasnt interested for my honda hornet. Ive recently found an ebay seller from Poland called venoxy who is happy to do odball and custom all they want is a scan of the gauge face emailed to them. They communicate well and quickly. I will update on their product after order and use but they sound great and no risk posting stuff away possibly never to see it again. Regards Bob
Thanks for that Bob, I need to get my 750 ones done, but if they do get lost, I'm screwed as the K8 is non-existent here and K7's are extremely rare. The supplier I used did astonishing work, but I just didn't want to post the faces, cheers.
my word this is amazing. doing my gauges now
I have very fine crack visible on the clear plastic cover on my Kawasaki Vulcan speedometer. Any way to treat or fix these fine cracks?
What kind of lubricant was used on the mechanism?
Very good information thanks
hi peter i am looking for the coloured lenses red and green for rev gauge
Great info. Great vid.