@@z3ro7o yes, The iron wasn’t hot enough so i raised the temp, then i ditched the wire and used a flat tip to put some solder onto the pins to then melt the whole solder. With the flat tip i put it on one side of the pin to melt the solder and i used the suction tool on the other side to suck up the solder. Worked like a charm.
Hi ya mate. My controller worked for about 5 min on gamepad tester after installing some Hall effects and then just didn’t. Wouldn’t turn on or anything. Amy ideas please. Thanks
BTW, on several places I have found info that if you actually replace the entire module, the deadzone will be totally off because it is calibrated during manufacturing and we who want to fix it ourselves cannot calibrate it on PS5. The only fix everyone is suggesting is to replacing those green 3 pin slots for the potenciometers, or only the potentiometer springs. So how come that your controller works just fine? Do you happen to know where is the truth? I noticed one guy in the comment section saying: "I changed it like this, but its dead zone is not in the middle, what to do to make the point exactly in the middle ?" - I think that is the issue that everyone is mentioning. Do you really think he bridged solder joints? I doubt it
This isn’t 100% true but it’s true because if u take a joystick from another controller it works fine and is centered so if u have problems it could probably be a bad joystick or your solder isn’t good the ps5 controller is best with lead less solder
Yes prior to all this joystick changing etc. Alotv testing has been done behind the scene to find out what each controller joystick resistance is. You can achieve this by testing what resistance each joystick potentiometer is set at and the neutral zone. Then order that part from the link in the description n pick if its 5/10/20ohm etc.
I tried this method but my solder iron just couldn't melt the led-free connections. I ended up fucking my entire controller, as I somehow torn off 2 little contact lines leading from one of the pin sockets. I guess that is not possible to fix without a microscope and a very very good professional
Only way to make the solder easier to melt is to add leaded solder to the joint to lower the working temperature. Heat gun is risky. Desoldering gun or solder iron attachment is better. I nearly damaged my first controller by doing this the first time. I now have the xp to do it more easily.
Hello, do you think this is something a beginner to soldering can do? I'm looking to do this, I pretty much just learned the basics on youtube and all, but have yet to buy a soldering iron.
I`m in the same boat. I`m just figuring out what solder iron to buy, like the heat required to melt the solder. But I got the basics on the list like flux, solder wick, desoldering pump, some holders, ect.
It’s very hard as the solder is a pain to wick. I just about did it having not soldered since school. Bought a cheap solder iron, flux and wick. I took potentiometer of only by wicking the 3 solder points and prying that piece of only and not the whole joystick. Replaced that part of a new joystick. The board sucks a lot of heat, pre hair dry it to warm it up if you don’t have a heat gun. I just yanked it of once the solder from the pads was clear and slotted in the new potentiometer and clipped it back on. Much better but these replacement joysticks aren’t OEM so don’t have the same swing back to dead centre. Mines of 3% but nudging it puts it to centre 0% but it’s not affecting gameplay at all tbh. It’s fun soldering and has given my controller a new life rather than be chucked into a draw forever
not for beginners Yet, if you have a couple non-functioning/malfunctioning controllers hanging around then, you have devices to practice with. they actually make PCB kits for beginners/practicing. i myself have several broken components including 2 dualshocks(PS4) and 3 dualsense(PS5) i'm hoping to either repair myself or pay someone to repair for me.
@@ydobp Funny enough you commented this today, cause I successfully replaced my joystick yesterday with Hall effects, as an absolute beginner. There were definitely a lot of mistakes made, but I know learned from them and I am confident that I can replace the sticks easier from now on.
But yeah, I almost destroyed one of the plastic connectors just due to using so much heat, but luckily enough it still works. Also used so much flux it pretty much kinda drenched the board. But again, I learned so much from this small project. It was my first time soldering too, and it is really fun overall, can’t wait to wrk on more projects.
@@stoneyhigh05i noticed that too. That’s actually the most troublesome bit as solder can flow through to the other side and bond it to the board. Seems he did use a hot air gun of camera as the cap was pulled of but not the joystick itself and the holes look different as you see solders flowed back up after the video cut.
Bro definitely ended up using the heat gun 😂 the wick just aint doin it
60W Soldering Iron heat for remove?
I must be doing something wrong because the iron takes a while to melt the solder and the wire doesn’t seem to suck up any solder
same ever fixed it?
@@z3ro7o yes, The iron wasn’t hot enough so i raised the temp, then i ditched the wire and used a flat tip to put some solder onto the pins to then melt the whole solder. With the flat tip i put it on one side of the pin to melt the solder and i used the suction tool on the other side to suck up the solder. Worked like a charm.
Hi ya mate. My controller worked for about 5 min on gamepad tester after installing some Hall effects and then just didn’t. Wouldn’t turn on or anything.
Amy ideas please.
Thanks
I changed it like this, but its dead zone is not in the middle, what to do to make the point exactly in the middle ?
Check your solder joints especially around the potentiometer (3pin)
BTW, on several places I have found info that if you actually replace the entire module, the deadzone will be totally off because it is calibrated during manufacturing and we who want to fix it ourselves cannot calibrate it on PS5. The only fix everyone is suggesting is to replacing those green 3 pin slots for the potenciometers, or only the potentiometer springs.
So how come that your controller works just fine? Do you happen to know where is the truth? I noticed one guy in the comment section saying: "I changed it like this, but its dead zone is not in the middle, what to do to make the point exactly in the middle ?" - I think that is the issue that everyone is mentioning. Do you really think he bridged solder joints? I doubt it
YES BRUH, i have the same problem, the joystick isnt dead centre, and actually drifts slowly upwards to the corner. How can i fix this?
This isn’t 100% true but it’s true because if u take a joystick from another controller it works fine and is centered so if u have problems it could probably be a bad joystick or your solder isn’t good the ps5 controller is best with lead less solder
Yes prior to all this joystick changing etc. Alotv testing has been done behind the scene to find out what each controller joystick resistance is. You can achieve this by testing what resistance each joystick potentiometer is set at and the neutral zone. Then order that part from the link in the description n pick if its 5/10/20ohm etc.
I tried this method but my solder iron just couldn't melt the led-free connections. I ended up fucking my entire controller, as I somehow torn off 2 little contact lines leading from one of the pin sockets. I guess that is not possible to fix without a microscope and a very very good professional
Only way to make the solder easier to melt is to add leaded solder to the joint to lower the working temperature. Heat gun is risky. Desoldering gun or solder iron attachment is better. I nearly damaged my first controller by doing this the first time. I now have the xp to do it more easily.
Hello, do you think this is something a beginner to soldering can do? I'm looking to do this, I pretty much just learned the basics on youtube and all, but have yet to buy a soldering iron.
I`m in the same boat. I`m just figuring out what solder iron to buy, like the heat required to melt the solder. But I got the basics on the list like flux, solder wick, desoldering pump, some holders, ect.
It’s very hard as the solder is a pain to wick. I just about did it having not soldered since school. Bought a cheap solder iron, flux and wick. I took potentiometer of only by wicking the 3 solder points and prying that piece of only and not the whole joystick. Replaced that part of a new joystick. The board sucks a lot of heat, pre hair dry it to warm it up if you don’t have a heat gun. I just yanked it of once the solder from the pads was clear and slotted in the new potentiometer and clipped it back on. Much better but these replacement joysticks aren’t OEM so don’t have the same swing back to dead centre. Mines of 3% but nudging it puts it to centre 0% but it’s not affecting gameplay at all tbh. It’s fun soldering and has given my controller a new life rather than be chucked into a draw forever
not for beginners
Yet, if you have a couple non-functioning/malfunctioning controllers hanging around then, you have devices to practice with.
they actually make PCB kits for beginners/practicing.
i myself have several broken components including 2 dualshocks(PS4) and 3 dualsense(PS5) i'm hoping to either repair myself or pay someone to repair for me.
@@ydobp Funny enough you commented this today, cause I successfully replaced my joystick yesterday with Hall effects, as an absolute beginner. There were definitely a lot of mistakes made, but I know learned from them and I am confident that I can replace the sticks easier from now on.
But yeah, I almost destroyed one of the plastic connectors just due to using so much heat, but luckily enough it still works. Also used so much flux it pretty much kinda drenched the board. But again, I learned so much from this small project. It was my first time soldering too, and it is really fun overall, can’t wait to wrk on more projects.
what temp do u put your iron at?
420 - 450 degree
@@autronicsltd3478 So 220 celcius?
hey I want to ask you If the controller didn't connect after closing the console how to fix it?
Check the connection points around the ribbon cables n the antenna cable (black) on the mainboard
@@autronicsltd3478 Why did you cut the part where you actually remove the joystick? did you use hot air station?
@@stoneyhigh05i noticed that too. That’s actually the most troublesome bit as solder can flow through to the other side and bond it to the board. Seems he did use a hot air gun of camera as the cap was pulled of but not the joystick itself and the holes look different as you see solders flowed back up after the video cut.