Mazdaspeed 3 - Intake Valve Cleaning
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video we clean the dirty intake valves in the Mazdaspeed 3 of all the carbon and oil build up. An Oil Catch Can and EGR block off/delete can reduce this build up. keeping the intake valves clean reduces the probability of detonation and helps the engine breathe easier. The main contributors to dirty intake valves are the EGR and PCV systems. Enjoy the video! Please like, share, and subscribe :)
Instagram - @wannabe_tuners
Mods in this video:
1. Snow Performance Stage 1 WMI Kit
2. Cobb Accessport V2 (self tuned)
3. Bfg G-force Comp 2 All Seasons
4. Jbr Oil Catch Can (vta setup)
5. Stratified Guardian Angel V3
6. Ngk One Step Colder Plugs
7. Cpe Top Mount Intercooler
8. Jbr 88a Rear Motor Mount
9. Jbr 88a Trans Motor Mount
10. Jbr 80a Pass Motor Mount
11. Autotech HPFP Internals
12. Eibach Lowering Springs
13. Corksport Injector Seals
14. Cnt Catted Downpipe
15. Koni Yellow Shocks
16. Volk TE37 Replicas
17. Raceland E-Cutout
18. Cobb 3 Port Ebcs
19. Resonator Delete
20. Htp Full 3" Intake
21. Bnr S4 V2 Turbo
22. Cobb Xle Bpv
You guys are the Best Automotive Hygienist I've ever witness!!! That job took me forever, I can't imagine trying to film and clean, bravo to You! Keep crushing it guys!
Haha thanks man! We're having fun with it
Is there just 5 bolts on the manifold to take off excluding the bolts you take off after taking the power steering off
Nice work man, I didnt use this video when I did mine, but i would, +1 to you guys for helping/sharing to the mazda community.
Best permanent clean valve solution:
1. Clean valves, to start with them fresh.
2. Run an OCC on the PCV > IM line.
3. Remove or unplug EGR (the EGR defaults to closed in its non-energized state, so removing the EGR is really unnecessary, unless you need the room). Then, you can re-plug it during inspection time. You'll also have to disable two CELs when running unplugged - 0401 and 0403, IIRC
4. Spray methanol, and make sure to get some sprayed on your valves each time you go for a trip in your Speed. M1 methanol is very corrosive, and the fuel wash over the valves prevents buildup in a manner we wouldn't normally have otherwise, since we're direct-injected and don't normally get fuel wash.
Problem solved. Done properly, you'll never have to manually clean your valves again.
Couldn't have said it better myself:) Another thing I've done is tee off the hose from the IM to the OCC and installed a second check valve and filter (to prevent debris from clogging the check valve). This way under boost the primary check valve at the IM closes and any crankcase pressure going into and out of the OCC pushes the tee'd off check valve open and relieves crankcase pressure. As soon as the engine is in vacuum, the second tee'd off check valve closes preventing non metered air from going into the engine. It's a very cost effective way to relieve crankcase pressure if you've already invested in an OCC and don't want to buy a whole new vented setup. Here's where I got the idea from, It's the 4th setup down the page: www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f661/occ-crankcase-pressure-testing-diaries-141095/
@@WannabeTuners are you still on the valve cover, and pcv to the occ? I'm just starting out. And I got to say your videos help me out a lot!
@@mortysmith5556 We have a picture of the current PCV setup on our Instagram page, and it is over kill. All u really need is a Speed Perf6rmanc3 oil breather cap (gen 2 vc), and a sealed OCC with check valve before the manifold. The simpler the better imo. The reason we have such an over the top setup is because we had a smoking turbo issue which wasn't being resolved with more crankcase pressure relief mods. Turns out the oil restrictor bolt was prolonging the issue
@@WannabeTuners I remember seeing that in one of your videos. I'm running basic mods right now. Mainly because I have OEM everything, and this is my first tuner. I want to get everything stable for more boost and power, so I don't ruin anything. I really enjoy your videos, and I hope to see more! More tuning videos would be cool!
Just re-read your original reply, and it made more sense hah. I was tired when I first read it. Thanks again for the videos
another great video guys keep it up. I plan on doing this job to mine to it's never been done yet 120000 km on its going to be baaad lol
Thanks bro! And ohh yes, at 120 it will be pretty stacked lol
Good job but! This video is full of failure and done wrongly lol
I have perfected this if you would like some advise for next time. I am actually doing it now for like the 6th + time. No need to take belt off or under tray. No need for any cleaning spray or soaking. And you can get them clean in just a few minutes with 25lbs fine walnut a large 120psi + air compressor and 20+ pound sand blaster, a vacuum, and yes the pick set and engine cleaning brush set. You vac and blast at same time. Bam done! Leave the car in gear roll it back and forth to open/close valves.
blazonemore2 Yeah I've read about using the walnut shell blasters paired with a vacuum which would save a lot of time. But since it was such a last minute decision, we thought we'd just soldier through it with picks lol
When you roll it to close the valves, do you still need to take off the power steering pump?
Great video,very informative.
Thanks man!
I’m scared to take the belt off and move the crankshaft how bad was this looks like the hardest part
Tbh it's very easy, just time consuming
I did this the other day but I kinda scratched valves a little with a screw driver. Should I be concerned?
As long as there aren't any cracks in them, they should be fine ;)
@@WannabeTuners thanks man also can cranking the engine make the car go out of time?
@@abdielperez4869 Timing can slip if u rotate the engine counter clockwise. Only rotate the engine clockwise. You may notice that while rotating it clockwise, the valve springs tend to try and rotate the engine backwards. This is fine to a certain point, but you definitely don't want to rotate the engine counter clockwise intentionally :)
@@WannabeTuners ok cool thanks for the info
@@abdielperez4869 No problem man :)
You need to open a mazdaspeed shop doing this for a living. I need to tear apart my engine soon. I have 0 compression in cylinder #2 hope it's the head/ the valves, piston looks fine from the spark plug hole
Having our own shop where we could serve our customers would be a beautiful thing! Unfortunately we are not there yet. If u have 0 compression I have a feeling the valves are bent.
@@WannabeTuners just a thought, wouldn't the other valves be bent too in the other cylinders? It was a cold compression test
#1-175
#2-0
#3-180
#4-180
@@rabbon-ithegenesis7169 It's possible to have bent valves in just one cylinder, but you're right, you'd expect other cylinders as well to also be affected. One thing u can do prior to disassembly is a leak down test to see where air is escaping from :)
@@WannabeTuners will do
Great work.. I always wonder what about the exhaust valves?!
Does it need the same process as well?!
No they do not because I imagine that the hot exhaust gasses minimize excessive build up :)
@@WannabeTuners
It could be. I guess that too.
On the other hand, sludges it could block some heat on the engine.
But did you look at it yourself. I am really don't want to suffer a night with tears to dismantle the exhaust manifold without a good reason.
You guys banttering back and forth is Classic Canuk talk plus u had a lrg Timmies From London west on 401
shane walsh Maa man!
Just did mine. My gen 1 had 105,000miles and you could tell it was never cleaned. Literally looked like chocolate cake.
I can hear the canada in your voice, bud. Followed fer that reason.
F****n eh bud!
How do you take of that line on the front right side of the intake, u pointed at it then just skipped how that comes off, not sure how that clip works for that line
Are u referring to the lines with the blue and red retainers? The red retainer needs to be pressed down then the line is pulled out. For the other line, if I remember correctly, the blue retainer has to be gently peeled back as you pull the line off.
hey guys! i love watching your videos and I can't wait to see you rebuilding this beauty! i really loved this video and I'm planing on doing the same in the next few days. My question for you, do I have to remove the belt to open and close the valves? Thank you and waiting for more vids from this amazing channel!
Hey thanks man we appreciate that! On the Gen 1's there is an intake manifold bolt behind the power steering pump, so taking the accessory belt off will make things much easier. I'm not sure if it's necessary on the Gen 2's though, as they use electronic power steering. I'm pretty sure they just use an idler pulley in place of the hydraulic power steering pump found in the Gen 1's and Speed 6's. So if you've got a Gen 2, you might not need to take the belt off to remove the intake manifold. I could be wrong though.
@@WannabeTuners did you get more knowledge if those gen 2 need to take off the belt to proceed with valve cleaning ?
@@yumyum9542 Hey no I have not. If you can see the farthest intake manifold bolt on the passenger side and it's not obstructed by anything, then you might be good to go without taking the belt off.
LOL @ old videos. Comment at @ 13:20, "For my horsepower goals, the stock intake manifold is fine".
Leif Madsen Lmao 700 hp may be just around the corner for all we know;)
Wannabe Tuners always lol
3:42 ouch! 😢
Ahhh life 😂
Hey quick question, I am trying to Walnut blast the valves. I just finished piking them as best as I can but it’s just not coming off. There still a thin layer of carbon. I’ve walnut blasted over 6 times it’s not doing anything. Am I missing something here what am I doing wrong?
It's a bit difficult to get them to be perfectly clean. We found that using a little bit of brake cleaner at a time helped loosen everything up. Using too much in one go causes it to pool up and makes for a messy job if using an air blower
if y'all could move to alabama and help me with my speed 3, that would be great!
That'd be a cool trip:)
Where are you guys located? I'm looking for some knowledgeable people that know the ms3 that I can learn from lol
Hey guys, did your power steering pump refuse to move after you got the 2 bolts out? I swear mine is like glued on with liquid gasket or something. It won't budge. 2006 speed6, so I guess that's technically a gen1?
craigzilla100 There is a third bolt at the bottom of the pump. You don't have to fully remove it. Just loosen it enough so that you can tilt the pump to get access to that intake manifold bolt :)
Wannabe Tuners found it! Pain in the arse! But I got it. Thanks guys. Manifold is off, and now it's time to get cleaning. Really thinking I should delete the pcv and EGR. So much gunk inside the manifold. I just want to get it back on the road though. She's my daily driver
craigzilla100 Yes sir! An oil catch can will help keep those valves clean. But having the EGR still in place will cause them to get dirty. A secondary EGR delete plate is a simpler way and is easily reversable :)
Is it okay to reuse the OEM intake manifold and throttle body gaskets? Just wondering if I need to order replacements.
I would either replace them, or run thermal insulating gaskets as they are re-usable and keep boost air temps a touch cooler
@@WannabeTuners Thanks man! JBR version?
@@duey1083 Yep that's what I run
Did it solve the smoking issue? I missed the follow up video.
How do you pull on the Tensioner pully and where is at. Please help!
It's the 14 mm bolt on the upper rear pulley. Simply rotate it clockwise until there is slack in the belt, then pull the belt off.
Wannabe Tuners Thanks I got it done but I just stripped one of the T40 torx bolts that hold the injectors fml. Do you have any idea on how to remove them once there stripped. Such a pain in the ass
@@santiagospangler1999 Try getting a vice grip plier on there. If that doesn't work, it might need to be extracted or drilled out.
Wannabe Tuners Hey thanks for your responses. I rotated the bolt clockwise and the belt off came off no problem; however, the bolt will not at all turn counterclowise while trying to tighten the belt. Do you have any idea the problem or solution to solve this
@@santiagospangler1999 You do not need to turn the tensioner counter clockwise. You only need to turn it clockwise to get the belt on. It will spring back automatically and put tension on the belt. No tension adjustment required ;)
You should have went to harbor freight and bought a medium blaster gune for 25.00 and medium for 30.00 .... maybe next time..
Yeah man a media blaster works wonders! I'm sure it would have saved us a lot of time :D
Hey weird question, what intake filter is that? And is it a 3.5"? Mine is fucked and I need a new one lol
This is an HTP 3 inch intake. I think it's an AEM dry flow filter. It's the filter that came with the intake.
I want a full a capella album out of Erik.
Hahaha I'm glad someone enjoys my musical talents lol. How's the MS3 bro?
Running beautiful. Actually going to be ordering a set of RaiderFab bumper brackets because mine are completely destroyed. You enjoying the S4?
Right on man. Those are pretty sick, I may end up going that route as well because nothing fits flush on that front bumper lol. The S4 has been awesome man, It's much smoother than the k04.
Yeah hopefully I'll have them on this weekend, you can check it out some night at Terry if I see ya!
Sounds good man, how often are u there?
Video home port match the intake mani
Haha I thought about it, but I don't have the correct tools and would probably end up just going with a JMF or something
Lol you guys are so awsome would u guys be able to do this to my speed 3 I would pay you of course lol just got a speed 3 and I k ow you guys know your stuff about this car Inside out
What happens if I don't move the valves and clean? Is it easier to do oil and change adding an oil flushing?
i guess
The valves need to be closed in each cylinder to ensure none of the carbon and gunk goes into the cylinders
Anyone got advice on how to remove the EGR pipe that's needs a 22mm wrench to be used to be remove it i tried pb blaster I tried a Cresent wrench and still nothing
A torch maybe. It is a sensitive area with all the wires and fuel line close. Did you end up getting it off anyway?
@@31Ramble ohh I did I got a Sawzall cut It up and put a 22mm socket and took it off
hey do you remember how many miles you on when you cleaned these? i just clicked to 61K
I was at about 50,000 miles. It's definitely a maintenance type of service
@@WannabeTuners alright sweet :) im putting in a BNR s3 right now and thought well might as well hit the valves
@@WannabeTuners also just bought the airlift 1000 cant wait
@@alexdafaatty U should also install a Damond Motorsports oil catch can to slow down the process of the intake valves getting dirty in the future ;)
@@alexdafaatty You will love that mod!
Are you tuned specifically for meth injection? Im thinking about using it to keep motor clean.
C Bo Currently I tune for power on the stock fuel system and use a small wmi nozzle for added cooling and octane. I'm going to be going 6th port soon for more fuel.
Come to edmonton and do mine 😁🤣
Could’ve used a small toilet brush
Wonder if anyone has tried 'steam clean' ?
That would be a first! Lol
How long did this take you two?
For it being our first time, and working slowly, it took about a day. Getting access didn't take too long, but slowly working away at the carbon build up by hand with picks took the longest.
@@WannabeTuners do you want it to be on the compression stroke, or the exhaust stroke? Also if the valves are all the way down, does that mean they are good to clean?
@@WannabeTuners or is it when the valves are completely up, not down?
@@WannabeTuners nvm. I found out lol
what downpipe do you run
CNT catted downpipe. Very good bang for the buck! Only problem with it is getting at one of the nuts at the bottom because the bell mouth casting makes it impossible to get a socket on it. Had to use a short open ended wrench from the bottom. Other than that, it's very well made.
yeah i have the same problem with my catless corksport. i just put the BNR s4 on my car and the design of the corksport divorced wg downpipe wont allow my wg to open all the way so i have to buy a dp with a open bellmouth design. *sigh*
Ahhh that's crazy. So the waste gate flap actually hits it?
yeah so my boost shoots up to 25 psi and 0% wgdc lol. just of wastegate pressure
Uh oh, are u sure it's hitting it though? I've never heard of that happening. What if the boost control solenoid lines on the 3 port are reversed between ports 1 and 2? I remember when we were trying to figure out why we couldn't build more boost than waste gate spring pressure, we reversed the lines on ports 1 and 2 and did a quick pull and it shot up to 30 psi. We found out later that we needed to add more wgdc to see a change lol. Scared the crap out of me lol
you guys work at 401 mazda?
Adrian Badildz No we're just car guys:)
I see, i just assumed when i saw an older vid where you did pulls by ambler drive. anywys nice vids, just earned a sub
Sweet thanks man! Are u a mazda guy? I see that nice bike in your photo
yeah i just bought a used ms3. just browsing on youtube for tutorials and basic mods for newbs.Came across your channel and love all the DIYs. Crashed my bike 2 years ago, cant ride anymore lol Honda CBR600
I chill at terry once in a while, lemme know when you guys go. wanna meet more ms3 in the area
Right on man, yeah I know a lot of MS3 guys who are all super cool! It's an awesome car, any plans or goals for it?