Best channel ever. -no ridiculous introductions -no shameless plugs or advertisements -bunch of dudes doing the most ridiculous things we've all imagined but never had the resources to do
ATF oil is made to work with clutch lamellars in the automatic gearbox so that's why it still gripped well. You'd probably see the same with motorcycle oil for wet clutches.
Just came to say this. I was surprised by the result at first, but then after considering that ATF is designed to work with clutch packs, it made sense
If he didnt take his foot off to gain control would probably stop the same as factory as the limiting factor would be the tyres on the road I wonder how this test would go with ABS ON and pre soak the pads like when rebuilding a trans ? This gives me an idea for the Park Brake/E Brake... if you know what the older Landcruisers are like this may be the solution ... maybe ...
Yes ATF is peculiar stuff. It has a tricky job to do... not the least of which is acting like both a lubricant and a gripping agent all at the same time, while carrying heat away and remaining chemically stable. Keeps itself clean under normal conditions too. Under-recognized engineering there.
the crazy thing is that people REALLY let their brakes go (just go watch some of the "just rolled in" videos on youtube) and even when they're DANGEROUSLY worn out and damaged they still function for day-to-day driving. They're amazingly well-engineered.
I'd use the word "function" carefully lol Yes metal on metal does still have *some* braking force, if you get all 4 wheels doing this... let's just say Vlad would have a show to watch from the end of the anti seize test as metal-on-metal flies by and into the brush there...
Had a bike in my childhood whose front drum brake was squealing, so I put a bit of universal oil in there. That resulted in almost no braking effect until I cleaned all the surfaces. The rear coaster brake worked, so no accidents happened.
I once put wd40 on my rotors before leaving my car setting for and extended period of time. I wanted to see if it would prevent the rotors from rusting. Fortunately i was wise enough to test the impact on stopping and discovered it had an enormous impact. It burned off quickly enough that if you remember the rotors are oiled a couple low speed hard stops and its back to normal but damn, if you forgot. Anyhow, I determined the impact on stopping was far too dangerous.
@UberLummox it will not become embedded. It's made out of flammable Hydrocarbons and petroleum oil, the only thing inside the can that isnt flammable is the CO2 gas used as propellant. Wd40 will burn up long before the rotors and pads reach their normal operating temperature. If you had read my comment you'd know I've tried it and it doesn't have a lasting effect after it burns off. I suppose It could cause glazing but glazing is removed easily by performing a couple hard stops. Besides, new rotors come with grease on them to prevent rust. Most people do not thoroughly remove the grease. It burns off before the rotors and pads are broken in. The instructions tell you to perform a couple of 40-50 MPH hard stops to bed the pads to fresh rotors and this should get them much hotter than a typical drive. If petroleum based products ruined rotors or brake pads the manufacturers would not apply them to the rotors to prevent rust. The burning oils will just leave some carbon soot behind which is abrasive, ie it might actually increase the coefficient of friction once burnt off. I'm guessing they didn't try it because of the relatively high likelihood of starting a fire. Wd40 is extremely flammable.
@@nickmcwilliams685 Well then, I bow to your much greater knowledge. Might even try it on my own car, a '67 Jag 420 that sits a fair amount in a moist atmosphere. Thanks!
You get soft braking until the water flash theme zaroff the brakes from the heat caused by friction. With the car in motion, all you need to do is give your brakes a little push, release, and then you're good to actually use them.
It’s worth noting that extended contact with many different kinds of lubricants will mess with the binders in brake pads and shoes. I’ve seen several brake pads and shoes turn to slime as a result of extended contact with engine oil and gear oil.
Funniest thing I ever saw was a kid in HS auto shop greasing his new clutch because one of the guys told him he was suppose to do that with a new clutch. We almost pissed ourselves when he tried it out the first time. LOL That was the smoothest sounding clutch we ever heard. whoooooosh Even the teach laughed before he chewed us out.
I am thinking that because of the high force that the pads grip the discs with, there must also be a physical removal of the oil from the discs going on, the pads scooping it away.
If you could have used slotted rotors most of the fluids and grease you put on will hold to the rotor and get better results by not wiping it off on the run up
Ummm considering slots are there specifically to sweep the pads and fling the result outward to [hopefully] never be seen again... "I don't think so". If anything it will shorten all of the brake times 🤷♂️
Reminds me of my mate who wanted to lubricate his breaks to stop them squeeking. I told him to think about it first, but had to explicitly tell him that it's a bad idea.
I'm not even a little bit surprised that the antiseize reduced braking the most and by a lot more than the next worst. That stuff is magical when you want to prevent two metal surfaces sticking and awful when you try to keep it away from a surface. It spreads like Ebola! I wonder if they front brakes actually did anything at all when they tested them with antiseize...maybe the rear drum brakes did all the work?
And this is why i dont worry too much about cleaning rotors to the degree that the really paranoid people seem to be. Yeah dont have a big film layer but a touch of grease here or there wont really hurt
Gear and engine oil use a different method for rating the thickness so a 75w-90 gear oil has about the same viscosity/cst as the 10w-40 engine oil. That number on the bottle is actually better described as a protection rating than a thickness rating but it does give a good idea of relative thickness when looking at one engine oil to another or one gear oil to another but not a good comparison for the thickness of a gear oil vs an engine oil. 😁✌️
@@tikihutdweller5944 that’s the point. Pads do most of the work and wear the easiest. They are also absorbent to a point. The rotors always wipe clean to a shine.
i'd like to see this tested on drum brakes with the same assortment (and with a slurry of mud, same as if you were four wheel driving and drove thru deep mud and lost brakes) and tested on clutch disk and flywheel. i think this would be very interesting to see what would happen/ed/s
i wonder about the coating like cosmoline that some brake rotors have on them from the factory to keep them from rusting if you don't clean it off before using brakes does it make much difference on brand new rotors that have machining marks that have to be worn down anyway.
Test the effects of intake size and shape. Just simple tube intakes - long runners, short runners, separating runners into pairs, funny shapes, log style runner, one massive plenum?
7:19 i Had expected this Outcome because Automatic Transmissions have cluches in this oil an they need to grip hard. The reason for the oil i think is Heat disapation for the cluch Pack. I know those Planetary Gear Set Automatic Transmissions are rough to the cluch so this might be a solution for longevety
ATF serves a whole myriad of purpose in a transmission. It is in large part a "hydraulic fluid" and as such is loosely based on the stuff normally found in heavy equipment hydraulics, with some extra goodies tossed in to make it a bit more special... It carries away heat, yes, but not just from the clutches and bands. Much of the heat produced comes from within the torque converter. The full force of the engine output flows through the ATF between 2 sets of moving vanes and a stationary set. The heat comes from hydrodynamic losses as the fluid is forced to change direction as it does its job. So yes, a coolant, but also the lubricant for everything within, including the differential in the case of a transaxle, with grippy tricks for the clutches/bands. It is also used hydraulically to engage and release said clutches/bands. It does all this while rather hot, so it must also remain stable and not break down, be able to "clean up behind itself" (detergent action) continuously, and without foaming. It doesn't take the same beating engine oil does but has a rather difficult job all the same. Contrast to a manual gear lube... it is 95% lubrication and 5% coolant. There's very little heat generated in a manual. (This is lost engine power in an automatic by the way, just another reason to drive a stick... I digress lol)
The grease makes perfect sense about it makung brakes grab better. I redid the frontend on my truck then went and have an alignment done. The technician said my brakes were too sensitive . I told him I got grease on my rotors when I put it back together.
Glad that someone did this - obviously this is not something most of us are willing to test on our own cars so we just 'imagine' the results. It is interesting that the oil clearly does 'burn off' in time - the question is how long? Further options to try: Water (this gets more complicated if the road also gets wet) Grease and water What happens when the stop test is repeated over and over - does full stopping come back eventually? How many times does it take? I.e. I have seen many people say that spraying WD40 causes no long term harm - i.e. once the brakes have been fully heat cycled none of the WD40 remains and braking is fully restored or even slightly better due to any existing grease and water being removed (only testing can prove this). (Obviously takes some discipline to do the first heat cycle safely - which all drivers should do anyway) As a pilot we test the brakes as soon as we move the aircraft! In the video he said he cleaned up the brakes before the next oil was applied - he should have shown that full braking performance was restored after each clean-up, which may also expose any variability in his breaking technique. Ideally an inspection / measurement of the pads would show if any long term effects can be seen? Does brake cleaner really put the pads back 100% to normal - probably needs a long term test to be sure.
Sorry if this already mentioned... What about engine oil friction-reducing additives such as Motor Honey, STP? What about silicone lube spray? or PTFE aka Teflon lube spray?
There is one more lubricant that is regularly used as an anti-seize "grease". I think the white one is based on ceramics, correct? There is also 1 that has the color of copper. I don't know if it is just very fine copper powder or if it is mixed with some kind of coating. But it is used around the braking system too, just like the ceramic/white spray. If you know what I am talking about, please try that one too, next time.
I can witness that if you spill brake fluid on those bicycle brake discs, the damn things will just squeal and have no braking force. You have to find a slope long enough, steep enough but not too steep, and burn the brakes through downhill. Then, they will stop squealing for the rest of the day, but the next day it's back. You can throw away the pads and the discs really.. hate them things.
I was remembering the standard bicycle brakes before disc brakes became popular, and thinking that not all technical advances actually make life better. The acronym, which used to hang in many engineering design offices, means 'Keep It Simple, Stupid!'@@andrelange9877
@@robwilde855 That's what I thought when I got my first disc brake on a bycicle and ruined it on a few weeks by spraying WD-40 onto some other part of the bycicle.
Pentru un test mai precis, ar fi trebuit să folosiți rotoare noi pentru fiecare test. Cred că suprafața metalică a rotoarelor a fost impregnată cu ulei sub suprafață. Tare test!
hey hello, congratulations for your beautiful videos, but this time I have a question, isn't it that the increasingly worse braking results can be attributed to the soaking of the brake pads rather than to the difference in lubricant? did you finally try to repeat the first test to see if the result is the same?? let me know, byeee
Honestly, I was always told that anything (other than water) would soak into the space between the molecules of brake pad material IMMEDIATELY and brake performance would be TOTALLY RUINED. These brakes still functioned pretty well -- but the damage was probably already done. Throw these brake pads away! Observe cleanliness for good safety!
@@richiesrestorations4883 Yep, the DIY v12, after some time today i saw the thumbnail again and pretty high views. But making a DIY opposed engine would be a worlds first, i think and a pretty difficult one, opposing 2 engines is easy, but you still need to add fuel, air and an exit for the gasses. you need a mid block with valves and probably custom enlonged pistons but with the pistons rings on the same spot. since they have some experiences with casting.
ATF is a fluid with a certain defined amount of grip to it. The result didn't really surprise me. CVTs, that use chains running in oil, wouldn't really work without that feature.
What about graphite on rotors, or even powdered graphite in engine, i hope it will so slippery for rotor and i don't know how it will behave inside engine, may be dangerous
You guys should do the opposite and put sticky stuff on the rotors and see how that affects braking. Like, honey and condensed milk. You had a lot of fun putting that stuff in an engine. Try it on the brakes! You could try all kinds of other stuff too like hand lotion, toothpaste, cooking oil, butter. The list is endless.
The thing about oils on brakes is, you have to leave it on there for a few cycles so it creates a hard film ... Then you will have some serious grabbing brakes . lol Fun video though . lol
Were all brake discs "lubricated"? If not some of the braking comes from the rear wheels, albeit they don't have that much stopping power as the front brakes.
Had a guy that brought his car to the shop with greases all over his brake rotors, his complain was his brakes kept making noise, and thats how he tries to quit down his brakes. After that day im never the same again.
Next video, replace the brake fluid with water and other liquids to see how it affects braking.
Water would work fine.
@@dooflydetailguuy4349 I would say water will not work, since it would start to boil probably.
if you have steam in your hydraulic braking system, you most likely wont be doing any braking after a hose pops out@@dooflydetailguuy4349
@@AndrewTSq fair point.
@@AndrewTSqbut pressure will raise boil temperatures
Best channel ever.
-no ridiculous introductions
-no shameless plugs or advertisements
-bunch of dudes doing the most ridiculous things we've all imagined but never had the resources to do
The russian to english overspeaked videos are simply the best on whole youtube.
ATF oil is made to work with clutch lamellars in the automatic gearbox so that's why it still gripped well. You'd probably see the same with motorcycle oil for wet clutches.
Just came to say this. I was surprised by the result at first, but then after considering that ATF is designed to work with clutch packs, it made sense
Ooo interesting
If he didnt take his foot off to gain control would probably stop the same as factory as the limiting factor would be the tyres on the road
I wonder how this test would go with ABS ON and pre soak the pads like when rebuilding a trans ?
This gives me an idea for the Park Brake/E Brake... if you know what the older Landcruisers are like this may be the solution ... maybe ...
Yes ATF is peculiar stuff. It has a tricky job to do... not the least of which is acting like both a lubricant and a gripping agent all at the same time, while carrying heat away and remaining chemically stable. Keeps itself clean under normal conditions too. Under-recognized engineering there.
@@MadScientist267 Like anyone that has experianced contaminated brakes , they become a switch, Wheel spinning / Wheel NOT spinning. 🤣🤣🤣
the crazy thing is that people REALLY let their brakes go (just go watch some of the "just rolled in" videos on youtube) and even when they're DANGEROUSLY worn out and damaged they still function for day-to-day driving. They're amazingly well-engineered.
Disc brakes are pretty tough.
Yes seen those videos myself!
I'd use the word "function" carefully lol
Yes metal on metal does still have *some* braking force, if you get all 4 wheels doing this... let's just say Vlad would have a show to watch from the end of the anti seize test as metal-on-metal flies by and into the brush there...
Even when the pads are completely gone, so it's steel-on-steel, the car stops fine. I don't see the need to have brake pads replaced 😂🤪🤷
There is a "just rolled in" video where the brake rotor is so worn that the technician is able to bend it literally with his hand
I wish one of these days I could visit your shop and watch first hand what you do to accomplish your testing. I'm amazed at all you and your crew do.
Im pissed this channel doesn't have at least 5 million subscribers already...Ill be here long as you guys are there.
the russian channel has 4.4 mil so plus this channels sub its at least 5 mil
Had a bike in my childhood whose front drum brake was squealing, so I put a bit of universal oil in there. That resulted in almost no braking effect until I cleaned all the surfaces. The rear coaster brake worked, so no accidents happened.
I got caught in a downpour on my bicycle, my rim brakes were not working with all that water on them.
It's interesting because coaster brakes had grease on breaking surfaces too. How can oil affect braking in drum and why not in coaster hub?
Same @huseyinuguralacatli5064
What bike has a FRONT drum brake?
@@the_kombinatorthey do exist
I once put wd40 on my rotors before leaving my car setting for and extended period of time. I wanted to see if it would prevent the rotors from rusting. Fortunately i was wise enough to test the impact on stopping and discovered it had an enormous impact. It burned off quickly enough that if you remember the rotors are oiled a couple low speed hard stops and its back to normal but damn, if you forgot.
Anyhow, I determined the impact on stopping was far too dangerous.
burning off isnt usually the problem, embedding and disintegrating is
@DarkIzo wd40 has a low flash point, it definitely burns off of automotive brake pads and rotors.
@@nickmcwilliams685 Sure, but as Darlzo said, it could get embedded in the pads and the pads are fuct forever.
Don't try it!!!
@UberLummox it will not become embedded. It's made out of flammable Hydrocarbons and petroleum oil, the only thing inside the can that isnt flammable is the CO2 gas used as propellant. Wd40 will burn up long before the rotors and pads reach their normal operating temperature. If you had read my comment you'd know I've tried it and it doesn't have a lasting effect after it burns off. I suppose It could cause glazing but glazing is removed easily by performing a couple hard stops. Besides, new rotors come with grease on them to prevent rust. Most people do not thoroughly remove the grease. It burns off before the rotors and pads are broken in. The instructions tell you to perform a couple of 40-50 MPH hard stops to bed the pads to fresh rotors and this should get them much hotter than a typical drive. If petroleum based products ruined rotors or brake pads the manufacturers would not apply them to the rotors to prevent rust.
The burning oils will just leave some carbon soot behind which is abrasive, ie it might actually increase the coefficient of friction once burnt off.
I'm guessing they didn't try it because of the relatively high likelihood of starting a fire.
Wd40 is extremely flammable.
@@nickmcwilliams685 Well then, I bow to your much greater knowledge. Might even try it on my own car, a '67 Jag 420 that sits a fair amount in a moist atmosphere. Thanks!
Try cleaning an engine using CLP gun lubricant as engine oil
Gun oil is a great idea
That's gonna smell horrible.
And? What happened?
@@Southpawarsenalnothing? No one said they are about to try it. Idk what answer are zou looking for lmao
@@zmurl4352 I must have read it wrong. I thought he said he did it himself lmao
I would like to see the difference between dry brakes and water-soaked ones, like if you went through a big puddle or a flooded road.
You get soft braking until the water flash theme zaroff the brakes from the heat caused by friction. With the car in motion, all you need to do is give your brakes a little push, release, and then you're good to actually use them.
It's a smaller distance than the ATF. Like 1-2% increase in braking distance, which is within the margin of error.
It’s worth noting that extended contact with many different kinds of lubricants will mess with the binders in brake pads and shoes. I’ve seen several brake pads and shoes turn to slime as a result of extended contact with engine oil and gear oil.
Never seen that happen, but was wondering exactly that.
I'm surprised he didn't say how stuff would effect the pads.
Heat + what you mentioned, could also be a thing. I imagine heat would increase the disintegration in some cases .
@@UberLummoxI don't think Vlad and crew has ever looked past the "right here and now" for the 107% success score lol
@@MadScientist267 Haha maybe so. Though I'm getting conflicting info on weather it does pad damage.
@@UberLummoxprolly organic brake pads maybe
Funniest thing I ever saw was a kid in HS auto shop greasing his new clutch because one of the guys told him he was suppose to do that with a new clutch. We almost pissed ourselves when he tried it out the first time. LOL That was the smoothest sounding clutch we ever heard. whoooooosh Even the teach laughed before he chewed us out.
If that was an organic clutch then nice, it was probably ruined :)
I am thinking that because of the high force that the pads grip the discs with, there must also be a physical removal of the oil from the discs going on, the pads scooping it away.
100%
Extremely thorough experiment; very enjoyable; thank you for all you do
If you could have used slotted rotors most of the fluids and grease you put on will hold to the rotor and get better results by not wiping it off on the run up
Ummm considering slots are there specifically to sweep the pads and fling the result outward to [hopefully] never be seen again... "I don't think so".
If anything it will shorten all of the brake times 🤷♂️
@@MadScientist267he’s thinking about it in a slow speed scenario where it acts as a holder and re applies grease as it passes under the brake pad
Reminds me of my mate who wanted to lubricate his breaks to stop them squeeking. I told him to think about it first, but had to explicitly tell him that it's a bad idea.
Wow, he sounds like the type of guy who would remedy pain in his arm by chopping it off😐
@@SwapBlogRU😂😂
we do grease brake to stop them being noisy. Just not the contact surfaces of the disks and pads. Simply all the other contact points
I'm not even a little bit surprised that the antiseize reduced braking the most and by a lot more than the next worst. That stuff is magical when you want to prevent two metal surfaces sticking and awful when you try to keep it away from a surface. It spreads like Ebola! I wonder if they front brakes actually did anything at all when they tested them with antiseize...maybe the rear drum brakes did all the work?
Would be interesting to see copper grease on the brakes, or graphite lubricant.
Yes! Definitely. Both! I am very interested to see that!
The white one he used was ceramics based, correct?
@@mattstroker3742 I'm not sure, I'm not familiar with these Russian brands.
Solid!
Top KEK!
Peace be with you.
I love the floppy mirror on the driver's side
And this is why i dont worry too much about cleaning rotors to the degree that the really paranoid people seem to be.
Yeah dont have a big film layer but a touch of grease here or there wont really hurt
Old guy I worked with liked to intentionally add a bit of grease to his pads during changeouts, saying it kept them from squeaking during break-in.
Why is it ok on cars while on bycicle disc brakes a single drop of oil ruins it completely, often requiring replacing the pads to be properly fixed?
i bet the bike rotors don't get hot enough to burn off the oil a car brakes get extremely hot @@andrelange9877
@@andrelange9877 Probably brakepressure and heatgeneration is higher on carbrakes.
@@operator8014Squeaking is from pads vibrating between the pistons.
i would like to see different fluids tried as brake fluid [thin motor oil or atf for example]
Gasoline?😂
Can't use petroleum based oils in place of brake fluid...
It causes the rubbers in the system to swell and go soft.
They all work but for a short time. There's another channel that did that with water and it took a lot of brake abuse before fading.
Gear and engine oil use a different method for rating the thickness so a 75w-90 gear oil has about the same viscosity/cst as the 10w-40 engine oil. That number on the bottle is actually better described as a protection rating than a thickness rating but it does give a good idea of relative thickness when looking at one engine oil to another or one gear oil to another but not a good comparison for the thickness of a gear oil vs an engine oil. 😁✌️
Use graphite as lubricant on rotor disc 👀💨
Legend has it he's still going, last seen in New Zealand
Oils hurt the pads, thats why they say clean it. soak the pads for a few days then try it.
oilite bronze bushing
Wish more people used this video format!! It fits the screen so much better. I feel like I've got a new phone!
I don't care how much our governments hate each other. I love this channel as an American
Yeah, it's pretty unfortunate, but that's just the way of the world...
As do I. They do things I have thought about but not to do.
@@jamms992 answers to questions I never thought to ask 🤣 I love it
Cool story bro
@mann_idonotreadreplies get outta here Ukrainian. lol
Several sets of pads soaked overnight in the different lubricants. Rotors won’t matter as it burns off fast. Much more fair test.
Disc's
@@dogwalker666 they refer to them as rotors in this video.
Who would ever remove pads to soak them in lube as a fair test? You would need a lot of pads.
@@tikihutdweller5944 that’s the point. Pads do most of the work and wear the easiest. They are also absorbent to a point. The rotors always wipe clean to a shine.
Agreed, it's the pads that soak up and change their properties, anything on the rotors/disks will just sooner or later scrape off.
i'd like to see this tested on drum brakes with the same assortment (and with a slurry of mud, same as if you were four wheel driving and drove thru deep mud and lost brakes) and tested on clutch disk and flywheel. i think this would be very interesting to see what would happen/ed/s
it's time to lube your brakes up man🤣🤣🤣
i wonder about the coating like cosmoline that some brake rotors have on them from the factory to keep them from rusting if you don't clean it off before using brakes does it make much difference on brand new rotors that have machining marks that have to be worn down anyway.
Brake rotor coatings don’t have to be removed.
im one of those people that cleans the rotor like crazy. this video made me rethink that
Sometimes I get a little silicone grease or I touch the rotor by mistake after a brake job. I'm not so worried about that anymore after watching this.
Test the effects of intake size and shape. Just simple tube intakes - long runners, short runners, separating runners into pairs, funny shapes, log style runner, one massive plenum?
7:19 i Had expected this Outcome because Automatic Transmissions have cluches in this oil an they need to grip hard. The reason for the oil i think is Heat disapation for the cluch Pack. I know those Planetary Gear Set Automatic Transmissions are rough to the cluch so this might be a solution for longevety
ATF serves a whole myriad of purpose in a transmission. It is in large part a "hydraulic fluid" and as such is loosely based on the stuff normally found in heavy equipment hydraulics, with some extra goodies tossed in to make it a bit more special...
It carries away heat, yes, but not just from the clutches and bands. Much of the heat produced comes from within the torque converter. The full force of the engine output flows through the ATF between 2 sets of moving vanes and a stationary set. The heat comes from hydrodynamic losses as the fluid is forced to change direction as it does its job.
So yes, a coolant, but also the lubricant for everything within, including the differential in the case of a transaxle, with grippy tricks for the clutches/bands. It is also used hydraulically to engage and release said clutches/bands.
It does all this while rather hot, so it must also remain stable and not break down, be able to "clean up behind itself" (detergent action) continuously, and without foaming.
It doesn't take the same beating engine oil does but has a rather difficult job all the same.
Contrast to a manual gear lube... it is 95% lubrication and 5% coolant. There's very little heat generated in a manual. (This is lost engine power in an automatic by the way, just another reason to drive a stick... I digress lol)
Brilliant content.
The grease makes perfect sense about it makung brakes grab better. I redid the frontend on my truck then went and have an alignment done. The technician said my brakes were too sensitive . I told him I got grease on my rotors when I put it back together.
Glad that someone did this - obviously this is not something most of us are willing to test on our own cars so we just 'imagine' the results.
It is interesting that the oil clearly does 'burn off' in time - the question is how long?
Further options to try:
Water (this gets more complicated if the road also gets wet)
Grease and water
What happens when the stop test is repeated over and over - does full stopping come back eventually? How many times does it take?
I.e. I have seen many people say that spraying WD40 causes no long term harm - i.e. once the brakes have been fully heat cycled none of the WD40 remains and braking is fully restored or even slightly better due to any existing grease and water being removed (only testing can prove this).
(Obviously takes some discipline to do the first heat cycle safely - which all drivers should do anyway) As a pilot we test the brakes as soon as we move the aircraft!
In the video he said he cleaned up the brakes before the next oil was applied - he should have shown that full braking performance was restored after each clean-up, which may also expose any variability in his breaking technique.
Ideally an inspection / measurement of the pads would show if any long term effects can be seen?
Does brake cleaner really put the pads back 100% to normal - probably needs a long term test to be sure.
Sorry if this already mentioned...
What about engine oil friction-reducing additives such as Motor Honey, STP?
What about silicone lube spray? or PTFE aka Teflon lube spray?
Great content!
Sounds like uncle fester is taking a power sh!t when he applies the brakes..
Love garage 54.223
I tried to grease up my wife's fun bags but she wasn't having it.
Send her back and get a nicer model :)
Leave her
so did i, she didnt say no to me! Weird..
What good is she, then?
Wrong bags
Because the rotor and pads is like the lockup clutch in a torque converter ATF is meant to lubricate certain parts but GRAB clutch material.
There is one more lubricant that is regularly used as an anti-seize "grease". I think the white one is based on ceramics, correct? There is also 1 that has the color of copper. I don't know if it is just very fine copper powder or if it is mixed with some kind of coating. But it is used around the braking system too, just like the ceramic/white spray. If you know what I am talking about, please try that one too, next time.
This is one of the best sites on the internet. Manages to be intelligent as well as funny and outrageous.
Good learning
that door slam at 13:30 just oiled my soul
I wonder if the brake pad material is very close to clutch material. ATF may have increased the biting capability of the instead of slippage.
I can witness that if you spill brake fluid on those bicycle brake discs, the damn things will just squeal and have no braking force. You have to find a slope long enough, steep enough but not too steep, and burn the brakes through downhill. Then, they will stop squealing for the rest of the day, but the next day it's back. You can throw away the pads and the discs really.. hate them things.
Only solution is burning the pads on fire. But even then it doesn't always recover their original performance.
You can soak in a solvent overnight.
Remember rubber pads working on the rims? This is one of the examples that prove the merit of K.I.S.S.
I was remembering the standard bicycle brakes before disc brakes became popular, and thinking that not all technical advances actually make life better. The acronym, which used to hang in many engineering design offices, means 'Keep It Simple, Stupid!'@@andrelange9877
@@robwilde855 That's what I thought when I got my first disc brake on a bycicle and ruined it on a few weeks by spraying WD-40 onto some other part of the bycicle.
Pentru un test mai precis, ar fi trebuit să folosiți rotoare noi pentru fiecare test. Cred că suprafața metalică a rotoarelor a fost impregnată cu ulei sub suprafață. Tare test!
hey hello, congratulations for your beautiful videos, but this time I have a question, isn't it that the increasingly worse braking results can be attributed to the soaking of the brake pads rather than to the difference in lubricant? did you finally try to repeat the first test to see if the result is the same?? let me know, byeee
They really should have changed the pads for every test.
Grabbing the popcorn,
this one's gonna be a good one
Honestly, I was always told that anything (other than water) would soak into the space between the molecules of brake pad material IMMEDIATELY and brake performance would be TOTALLY RUINED. These brakes still functioned pretty well -- but the damage was probably already done. Throw these brake pads away! Observe cleanliness for good safety!
I got one for you, bolt 2 engine blocks opposite of each other and connect crankshaft with a fat chain to synchronize and see if you can get to run.
@@richiesrestorations4883 Yep, the DIY v12, after some time today i saw the thumbnail again and pretty high views.
But making a DIY opposed engine would be a worlds first, i think and a pretty difficult one, opposing 2 engines is easy, but you still need to add fuel, air and an exit for the gasses.
you need a mid block with valves and probably custom enlonged pistons but with the pistons rings on the same spot.
since they have some experiences with casting.
You should have tried Valve grinding compound. It might have actually improved on dry rotors.
haha, funny, good experiments, I was more concerned about the lack of safety belt than the brakes
XTC.........the official oil of Garage 54
I love your channel, keep up the great work guys
Installs a double disk brakes and see how much improvement can it make, my suggestion for you to try upon
Cool experiment!
Fabric softener Fluid Works as Brake Fluid 👍🏼
I can tell you for a fact that power steering fluid will not affect your brakes but it will affect your tires and grip quite a lot!😊
Power steering and brake fluid are very similar in composition
@@MadScientist267 ya absolutely. Hydraulic fluid on the tires is an interesting time.
ATF is a fluid with a certain defined amount of grip to it. The result didn't really surprise me. CVTs, that use chains running in oil, wouldn't really work without that feature.
Could you improve pad grip with some grit/sand compound?
i'm just amazed you didn't go flying past the runway.
Great life hack for my pesky neighbor! Thanks Vlad!
1:43 the door and Vlad's reaction. HAHAHA
Happens too often it seems
hey garage 54 I really like your content you guys are the best keep up the good work
What about graphite on rotors, or even powdered graphite in engine, i hope it will so slippery for rotor and i don't know how it will behave inside engine, may be dangerous
At least you figured out how to extend brake life.
Now you should run the motor on anti-seize lubricant
Very clean hands
Makes sense gear oil affected it much more since it is an extreme pressure lubricant.
Garage 54; The Goat
You guys should do the opposite and put sticky stuff on the rotors and see how that affects braking. Like, honey and condensed milk. You had a lot of fun putting that stuff in an engine. Try it on the brakes! You could try all kinds of other stuff too like hand lotion, toothpaste, cooking oil, butter. The list is endless.
YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST !!!!
Garage 54, Russia’s finest TH-cam channel!
Gear oil surprised me because I expected them to have almost no breaking ability but as we see it was not actually the worst.
siliconoil next? or some thin fine sunroseoil or some cornoil? vegetableoil? try it...
You should pack a whole motor full of red gear lube
Project farm packed a small engine with anti seize compound.
The thing about oils on brakes is, you have to leave it on there for a few cycles so it creates a hard film ... Then you will have some serious grabbing brakes . lol Fun video though . lol
Lada stops on dime and gives three rubles change.
Try dish soap or personal lubricant 😊
Try to replace the brake pads with other materials like wood or plastic
Molybdenum disulphide or a forging graphite emulsion would be interesting for this test.
Were all brake discs "lubricated"? If not some of the braking comes from the rear wheels, albeit they don't have that much stopping power as the front brakes.
So - very roughly - the lubricants increase the breaking distance as much as very wet surface increases it, compared to dry surface?
Basically, your drum brakes got better and better :D
how about using coarse polishing/sanding compound
More like ProjectFarms territory. :)
Definitely I'm sure Todd watches their channel.
I imagine every time he says tak, he’s actually saying fuc, fuuuuc 😂
Hey how about using cooking oil on the master cylinder next time to see how it affects the braking! Great experiment!👌😂👍
Great idea. The rotors stay shiny and rust free and the brake pads last longer. What could go wrong? 🤪🤪😂😂😂😂
Glad these guys do these things so we don't have too 😁
Had a guy that brought his car to the shop with greases all over his brake rotors, his complain was his brakes kept making noise, and thats how he tries to quit down his brakes. After that day im never the same again.
Have you've ever done or made brake pads out of wood or other material?
try lithium grease. or teflon spray
I say the guy putting the axle grease on, only very lightly put some on. Try again coating the rotor liberally.😊
Use gallium on an aluminum engine block
nice job