Seriously, the best description of this procedure on TH-cam! Everything else felt like a 12th grade mech shop student trying to explain kinetic theory. Great video! Subd also!
I have pitting on my n55 head, and the repair lasted about 15 months. Planning on reworking and decided JB weld will be my fix so was very happy to see your suggestion at 16:00!
Hi Patrick! I have seen quite a few alternators fail when they get saturated with oil from a bad oil filter gasket. With higher mileage vehicles or if contaminated with oil I think replacing the alternator is a smart move!
Great job with excellent descriptions! Best on youtube!, I will be tackling this next weekend. Changing out the belt, pulleys and tensioner. since they got dripped on with oil.
Many thanks for the tutorial - it saved me a lot of time. The job went smoothly, and fortunately, I used my 134a evacuator, allowing me to pull the a/c lines and set them aside out of the way (I used a small snap ring spreader to release the a/c line loom brackets from the fan shroud.). Did the job in 2.5 hours, quoted 5.5. Again, many thanks.
I will change the gaskets next week. The only thing that disturbes me in this video is the fact you cannot check if the intake manifold gaskets are still in place when you retight the intake
Excellent video. I just noticed pooling at my oil filter housing and oil splash on and around the alternator. With this video I'll be tackling this myself.
Thanks Jared. Also make sure the leak is not from the oil filter cap. Aftermarket oil filters often come with a flat o ring seal. It is a common spot to leak when using non OEM filters.
@@AskTheCarExperts I'll certainly check that. It's a good amount of oil in the area but certainly a cheaper fix. Regardless, your content is still extremely valuable. Keep it up!
Could an oil cooler fail? and allow oil go into cooling system??.... I have changed both gaskets and coolant still gets milky and the engine runs good, so I don't think in a head gasket.... Thank you for replying.
Hello RP, Yes you can get mixing from a failed oil cooler. When you did the gasket did you make sure there was no pitting on the mating surface? If there is you need to use JB weld to fill the pitting and sand smooth. Also once you get oil and coolant mix in the cooling system is is very hard to remove it. There is always some residual. Keep removing the top layer of the reservoir and top off.
Great video! Quick question, you didn't do an oil prime procedure? This job doesn't seem to be any different than that of an oil change? Is the ofhg oil prime that necessary? I was planning on filling the oil filter then putting the filter back in and the coolant primer. Thanks!
Another great vid, and this one is good for my 2013 X3. I'm doing this now for my 2013 X3 which is 99% similar. I did drop the back most 11 mm nut but will get it off the bottom shield tomorrow (Got it). Also, those press on rubber wire hangers on the back are crazy nasty to pull up. Whoever put on the lower short E-torx on the housing way over-torqued it and I was worried it wouldn't come loose using 1/4" drive and socket, but soaked in penetrating oil for a while and got it, but had to undo the "mickey mouse ears" hose connection to make room for the socket. I couldn't get it with the ratcheting wrench, my hands not strong enough. I used a dab or crazy glue to hold the rearmost manifold bolt into the socket back there. It worked too good, had a hard time getting the socket out! I'm going to replace the serpentine belt and upper rad hose because they were soaked with oil and I dumped quite a bit of anti-freeze too. Tomorrow I'll finish up after a good cleaning and new gaskets. I didn't bleed the coolant, just added some. I'll do the oil /filter change tomorrow. Thanks again for a really quality effort. The job is done, no leaks and running well.
Hello Wali, Some items are worth spending a bit more money on. My two go to Etorx E8 and E10 are Snap On 1/4 drive because they have a low profile and you can get into tight spaces with them. This set does include the two you will need from Amazon but you may want to consider ordering from Snap On for these to swivels. amzn.to/3YMqpE1
Great tutorial, I'm very glad to see you're back to making videos. One note for anyone doing this, the BMW blue coolant is not premixed (at least the type I've used), and should be diluted 1:1 with distilled water only. Of course, trust the directions on the bottle over me. I love the plastic bag trick to protect your belts, I wish I had done the same when changing the thermostat on my E46 328i (I used a plastic gallon water jug cut into a funnel like shape which only worked OK). I'd also recommend removing the plastic covers underneath the engine and putting puppy pads on the ground (or a large shallow container) to help contain the mess. Keep any kids and pets away as as the ethylene glycol in coolant is apparently both tasty and very poisonous.
Thank you for the great comment! Very good advice! The under body panels can be a pain to take off on the ground but it is worth the time since you will not have to clean up the mess. I use what we call pig mats at work for spills and the puppy pad idea is fantastic! Also thank you for the notes on the coolant. This is a very helpful comment for everyone!
When you perform oil priming procedure, can you remove the fuel injector fuse instead of disconnecting each injector? If so can you tell me the fuse number for a 2013 bmw x5 VIN 5UXZV4C52D0E07865. Thank you.
Hello, There is no specific fuse for the fuel injectors. Power and ground is directly from the DME. You can unplug the low side fuel pump. Or best to disconnect the plug for the injectors at the DME.
Hello, I don't think it would be worth the time invested since the intake comes off very easily. If you strip out the bolt it will make more work for you than to pull back the intake. I hope this helps.
Hi Chris, Just by the area of the leak and a visual inspection. As long as the cap is not leaking any oil in the area of the OFH would be from the gasket.
Usually you have to have the selling dealer do the work first. But you can call them and ask to see if they are ok with you doing the repair at a BMW dealer. The other shop would then have to pay the final bill.
Great video - only concern that I have is going back with BMW OEM gaskets considering the BMW original gaskets failed prematurely - aren't there better options available?
@sunyoungg5634 That is a great question. I purchase from FCP which has a lifetime warranty on parts. But like any gasket subjected to temperature changes, they all will break down.
Excellent diy ... ...easy step by step ...thanks... what is your tzke priming the engine ... as some N55 did seize up after the OFHG replacement . Please do comment
I would recommend to do an engine priming after. Not quite as scritical with this repair but it couldn't hurt. I do that now all the time but it was not common practice when I made this video.
@@AskTheCarExperts what is the fuse # to pull if we disable the fuel pump. When doing the priming .... jplz explain. Any help is greatly appreciated... is it located in the trunk. I would definetly pull that fuse nstead of taking out the wiring harness for each injector
Hi, great video. Just wanted to confirm some of the tools that you used. Please confirm the size of the ratchet wrench you used on the lower bolt holding the oil filter housing.Was it a E8 or E10? You mention that it's a E8 but think its a E10. Also are all the torx sockets you used are E10/E12 and the socket you used for the manifold bolts/nuts a standard 6 point 11mm? Thanks.
Hello, Yes the lower bolt is an E10 and you will need the E10 and E12 socket. Swivel sockets are helpful and the intake manifold should be an 11 mm 6 point. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi Dx, Yes this is the usually reason. When you remove the components check the sealing surface for pitting. If you see some you can fill with JB weld and sand down to correct. You will need to flush the cooling system a few times but keep in mind there usually always is some residue left. Just keep removing the small amount that comes to the top over time and it should help clean it out.
Thanks for detailed instructions. Have you tried to remove the cooler with the OFH? Would that mix more coolant with the oil? About to try this and just wondering
@@AskTheCarExperts thanks for lightning fast response, was watching the video again and the bottom bolt will be awkward no matter what. I saw some other online diyers remove the two things together and then disassemble the cooler later. Was just wondering if there was some fluid mixing concern
Awesome video. I did mine 3 days ago but I must’ve connected the sensor without making sure the sensor was dry. Now my oil temperature gauge isn’t working. Do you think the sensor on the oil filter housing is the reason why?
Seems like there's a lot of stuff that gets removed for this one. Any thoughts on other good "while you are in there" type things? I'm thinking acccessory belt and possibly cleaning out the intake/walnut blasting.
Hi David, That's a great question. The N55 engine does not typically collect carbon in the intake. That was common on the N54. Take a peak at the intake ports but you most likely will not need to clean them. I would recommend the belt tensioner as it is a common failure.
Man I’m about done except the last bolt by the manifold. It goes in quarter way and then no more turn or very hard to. I tried a brand new bolt and the same happens. Any advice appreciate you.
You may need to loosen all of the other bolts and put that one in first. Blow out the hole with air if you can. Hopefully it did not get cross threaded.
I have done this job on 2013 335i, N55. I still have oil in coolant and there is no pitting on mating surfaces. Any other idea what can cause this? Cylinder leak down test proves head gasket is good.
Thanks for the very helpful video. Quick question...when I was putting the intake manifold back on, the second to last nut slipped and fell down before I secured it on the post. I reached down with a magnet but came up empty. The manifold was fully seated and it looks like it fell into an open area. Could it have fallen into a critical spot and do major damage or is it likely sitting on a rail or down on the splash guard? Thanks again.
Hi Joel, Most likely it fell into a cavity outside the engine. If the intake was fully seated it is unlikely it fell into the intake port. But if it did find its way in then major engine damage can result. If you have any doubt you should inspect the intake ports and remove the plug and inspect the cylinder. That would be a very bad day to damage your engine over 1 lost nut.
Hi I need help I have a little pooling of oil next to the cap for the oil do I need to replace both gaskets or should I be fine if I just did the oil housing gasket
@@AskTheCarExperts it’s more on the filler cap we’re the cap is there a small dime size pool of oil that just sits there after I wipe it after I ride it for a few hours it comes back I had a oil change and my mechanic said if it comes back then it’s not the oil filter because we did the oil change he said it’s the oil cooler gasket but I’m just trying to double check i don’t see oil anywhere else just there in that little pit
@@user-bs9mw1cz9o One common problem is from using aftermarket filters. The O ring for the filter cap is flat not round like an oem filter. This can lead to leaks from the cap just from a bad o ring
How do you get the nut at the driver wall? I could not get on it slip off. All those wires in the way too. How did you raise the barrier to clear all the wires. My clip it is impossible for me to push up. I am referring to the last nut in the back
It's all by feel in the back. You can try a swivel with electrical tape wrapped around the pivot for better tension and control. Tap the end of the extension to help seat the socket.
@@AskTheCarExperts I might have to unscrew the barrier and move wires to get to that nut. I got a mirror but them wires blocking my view. It feels like the stud and nut are angle and not perpendicular. This is why I couldn't get in the 11 or 12 mm . My belt brokes due to leaking OHG. I took off the fan cowl and removed the crank pulley. Shredded belts was wrapped behind crank pulley. I removed the remnants and the seal looks new. However, some electrical wires is torn at the sleeve so I will have to wrap them with electrical tape. Thanks for the reply and the video is awesome. Much appreciate your time.
Thanks for the video it’s very well done it’s not that I haven’t done any yet but it’s interesting to see if there’s a different way to do it and there is I didn’t know about the A/C flexible lines but what I do on all BMW now is replace the plastic coolant flange close to the short bolt on the oil filter housing I buy it from my German Car part suppler it’s made of aluminum I just cut the rubber hose close to the metal clip then you loose very little hose this is where I drain most of the coolant. One other thing I do is remove the oil filter From the housing then suck all the oil from it so it doesn’t leak as much when you remove the housing the broken cylinder head bolt I saw this for the first time not that long ago.
It is a good idea to prime after the repair. Disable the injectors or fuel pump and crank the engine over a few times for 5 sec intervals and wait a few minutes in between to let the starter rest.
@@AskTheCarExpertsThanks excellent video on this repair You did a wonderful job of giving step by step procedures You should include the oil priming alot of people dont know about this critical and final procedure.
Does this happen to a lot of f10's or just cars driven really hard. I'm really not looking forward to this with my f10. What cost am I looking at from the local mechanic or dealer?
Hello, Unfortunately this is common on all 4 and 6 cylinder engines. I am not sure what the dealer cost would be but for the home mechanic the parts are not very expensive. However the labor for the install is where the cost goes up if you have it done at a dealer or independent shop.
@@AskTheCarExperts thanks. Since I've got you on the line I have a question for you. I recently had my oil changed after 1 year and 4k miles. The guy didn't let every last drop come out of the car. While I turned my head he closed up the plug while there was still a spaghetti sized trickle coming out. I didn't say anything but I wasn't happy about it. Why not do the job right? Is this common and is it a concern?
Here is the service procedure...... newTIS.info beta BMW E70 X5 M SAV / Repair Manuals and Technical Data / 11 Engine / 11 00 Engine / Repair notes on renewing the engine Engine damage due to lack of engine oil. Lack of engine oil after the oil circuit components are repaired or after the engine is renewed may cause damage to the engine. Do not start the engine after the oil circuit components are repaired or after the engine is renewed without following the repair notes. The repair notes on carrying out repairs on the oil circuit components or renewing the engine must be followed. For additional information, see: Repair notes on carrying out repairs on the oil circuit components or renewing the engine Problem After the engine is renewed, the lack of engine oil may damage the engine. Cause An exchange engine is not pre-filled with engine oil. An exchange engine may still have an unknown residual amount of engine oil in the oil sump resulting from the assembly of the engine. This residual amount of engine oil is not sufficient to operate the engine. A lack of supply of engine oil due to a low oil level may damage the engine immediately after the engine is started. The electronic measurement of the oil level is possible only if the engine is running and the engine oil is at operating temperature. The electronic measurement of the oil level therefore must not be carried out. Solution The engine oil must be drained fully after the exchange engine is installed. For additional information, see: Maintenance instructions "00 00 252 and 00 00 610 Engine oil service". Observe the sign in the engine compartment! Only pour in approved engine oil with the correct SAE viscosity classification. Fill the correct quantity of engine oil in the engine. For additional information, see: Maintenance instructions "00 00 252 and 00 00 610 Engine oil service". Engine oil Technically suitable engine oils for BMW Group engines 3.0 Technically appropriate engine oils for BMW Group engines Connect battery charger. Damage to the starter motor. An excessively long and uninterrupted operating period of the starter motor may damage the starter motor. Note the maximum permissible uninterrupted operating period of the starter motor. Allow the starter motor to cool down before a new operation. Before the first engine start, the engine only needs to be turned with the starter (without combustion) for a few seconds.. The maximum permissible uninterrupted operating period must not be exceeded. Additionally, the starter motor must be cooled down for a few seconds before being operated again. Starter motor Maximum permissible uninterrupted operating period 10 s of the starter motor Minimum cooling-down period immediately after 20 s operation The fuse of the electric fuel pump must be removed to guarantee this. Turning the engine with the starter motor (without combustion) ensures that the engine has a sufficient supply of engine oil to start the engine regularly thereafter. Turn the engine with the starter motor (without combustion) for the stipulated period of time. Allow the starter motor to cool down for the stipulated period of time. Carry out the previous two steps 2 more times. Then install the fuse of the electric fuel pump. Delete the fault memory. Start engine. Bring the engine to operating temperature. Measure the oil level electronically. Additional Information Overview Technical Data Starter motor Maximum permissible uninterrupted operating period 10 s of the starter motor Minimum cooling-down period immediately after 20 s operation Links Operating materials 3.0 Technically appropriate engine oils for BMW Group engines For informational purposes only. The information on this website is provided AS-IS with no warranties, express or implied, and is not guaranteed to be error-free, up-to-date or complete. Newtis.info and BMW assume no liability for any loss or damage arising from the use or reliance on the information and content on this website. The content on this website is subject to change without notice.
I just replace my timing chain & water got into my cylinders. I remove the spark plugs and got it out. Now milky stuff shoots out of dipstick. What should I do?
That's not good. Hopefully no damage occurred. Do a few oil changes but if you still get coolant and oil mixing it may be a head gasket or failed coolant jacket.
Thanks for the video, i have to replace my OFHG soon. I noticed some people on the internet, that had a spun rod bearing after replacing the OFHG(the belt still intact). Any logical explanation for that? Or any advice for rod bearings in general on the N55 engine? Thanks a lot.
Hi, yes there is a procedure I would recommend. The current procedure to do when the oil circuit is opened is to turn the engine over by hand 2 x and then with a charger on the vehicle and the fuel system disabled (fuel pump fuse or unplug the low side pump) crank the engine for 5 sec intervals letting the starter rest for 1 min in between and do this 4x. This re prunes the system. Also you should double up on your oil changes and try to avoid short distance driving that allows water build up in the oil. I hope this helps!
AskTheCarExperts oooh now i understand. So there may be a true connection betewen OFHG replacement and rod bearing failure. Thanks a lot for the life saving advice! It all makes sense now :)
@@primoz990 Your welcome :) This should be performed on any repair that interrupts the oil circuit. That would include vehicles that have sat for a long time, vanos unit and solenoid replacement, oil pan removal, or any major engine internal work. Thanks for asking a great question! I think others will get a lot of value from it!
AskTheCarExperts Yes, you are 100% right on that. I see you have a lot experience with BMW N series engines in general. Any experience with spun rod bearings on the N55? Some people had this fatal issue on low mileage cars for no obvious reason. Any info on that maybe? I am thinking to preventive replace the rod bearings on my N55 with 125k miles.
@@primoz990 I have seen quite a few bottom end problems on the N55. I would also recommend checking your oil filter and looking for any signs of copper. I think most failures stem from BMW's current oil change interval. People I know that do an oil change every 5,000 or less have a lot less problems. I have also seen failures from cold weather due to emulsified oil due to short distance driving. I know in Canada they install block heaters. I think this should be done in all cold weather climates. I have yet to install one though :)
@@AskTheCarExperts is it possible you have a picture showing it? Im trying to remove the bolt behind all that cable on the back by feel and seem impossible. Smh
Hi there great video. BMW are suggesting 4 hours for this job but I think that may be because they include removing the manifold completely. What’s a reasonable time for the job if you do it this way?
I drilled part of the manifold, just enough to get the screw out, 20 minute job with some mechanical experience. I just add coolant, didn't get to purge the system, car runs great.
Unfortunately I don't have any experience with oil catch cans. I did hear about catch cans causing some problems if the water in the can gets sucked into the intake. As long as you drive the vehicle normally and maintain your BMW well it should last a long time.
Hi Bud, I have totally different question for you on BMW X3 E83 2008. I was driving few days back all of sudden "RED color Airbag light plus Yellow color Break light (parking break) and Yellow 4x4 light came on. There is no engine performance issue it runs fine. any advise bud.
@@AskTheCarExperts thanks bud for very quick replay... appreciated it. There is no fault code or Engine Service light On. do you still want me to scan for codes etc?
@@tahirrana6875 No worries. Glad to try and help. With the warning you have there will be codes for the transfer case and DSC modules and possibly the airbag system.
I currently went through a oil housing leak and engine gasket leak all fixed now, brand new ECU been replaced too ,but the only issue I’m having is an air leak and the garage can’t seem to find it they checked every single part did smoke test too , this happens everytime I connect the mass air flow sensor the car misfires and mixture too lean and once I disconnect it the car runs smoothly but ofc with less power and more fuel burning please help me someone as nobody knows where the air leak is coming from ! Thanks 🙏
Hello, This repair would be for any vehicle with the N55 engine. If your not sure run your VIN in realoem.com and you can confirm you have the N55 vs N54
@@AskTheCarExperts ok great it's a n55 engine, I took my car to the dealer for an airbag recall and they said I have a leak on the oil filter housing gasket. I dont see any leaks or any pooling on my driveway, is there any way to know for sure that's the problem? My mileage is at 87k, you think I should just get it done as a preventive measure. Also do you think I should change belt and tensor while I'm in the process? Sorry for the overwhelming amount of questions..
@@infamous87ny Take a look at the underside of the housing. This is usually where the leak starts. Using and inspection mirror can help. Also check the coolant lines going to the cooler for any signs of oil which can make the hoses swell. I hope this helps. If your not a subscriber please subscribe :)
I had no where near that much room to work with removing and replacing these gaskets 06 BMW z4 3.0si.. But I completed the job before it started to even start to leak I didn't sand down just used brake cleaner.
That's great Terrence! Being preventative is smart. Once the oil gets onto the drive belts they need to be replaced and I have often seen the drive belts come apart leading to engine damage.
🚨 Engine oil priming is also recommended after this job or you may have air bubble in oil system. Many blew their engines after doing this job without priming the engine. 🚨
It is a great recommendation. I have not seen an engine fail from not priming on an oil filter housing gasket but any repair that interrupts the oil circuit priming is recommended.
@@oliverfernandez4273 I would be happy to try and help. Best to contact me via my website at www.askthecarexperts.com and send me the last seven of your VIN, description of the issue and your contact info
Hi Thank you for the excellent and in great detail video . great explanation and camera work. I have a 2013 bmw x5 35i 3.0 litre turbo. QUESTION>>> It seems this is a common problem with these gasket failures, Does BMW have these replacement gaskets made out of revised/ better composite material?? If not it will only be a matter of time to have to be redone again and again in the future. Or is there another gasket company (Felpro/McCord) that do obviously make a better revision gasket to replace these "known problem" gaskets. ty Sir in advance
This is usually an age and time related failure due to expansion and contraction. Bmw does not make a different gasket. It is the same material as the original. You could try a different gasket but I am not familiar with other brand gaskets and longevity.
@@AskTheCarExperts ,Ty Sir for the quick response and input.I guess I am just comparing it to my 2006 v6 toyota highlander and never ever had any issues with any gaskets on it with 400 thousand kilometers with Zero issues.....i would have thought"German Engineers would look for a " permanent fix for good gasket" because it is a BMW which is/suppose to be a higher class vehicle. my 2013 x5 35i was done at dealership at 79,000 kilometers,now it has 142.,000 kilo and its leaking again... not impressed with it as it compounds other mechanical problems,Serpentine belt/ front main oil crankshaft seal/or engine remotely, could be destroyed for a $10.00 gasket modification/revision. So BMW will have this problem in all of it upcoming vehicles... Engineering$%^&* wow .ty for your thoughts and input . Excellent videos and please keep posting videos and excellent teaching ty
does the intake have to be removed?? I did hear it can be done without removing the intake on N55 Engine,i assume its a lot harder to get at that bolt and time consuming ty
@@battlehrfred No but you need to have some flexibility to get at the one bolt on the oil housing If you have an 8mm or 5/16 swivel socket it should be able to remove the torx bolt
@@battlehrfred i use a 5/16 quarter inch drive flex socket on the lower torx bolt with a mid length extension Works every time If any of the rubber hoses attached to the oil filter housing are damaged from oil replace them as well. They will leak sooner or later
@@alexlaverick6111 ty for your excellent info.I will be ordering "Mahle seals/gaskets from Rockauto,hopefully they will last,because its hard to believe that some Company/Supplier do not have a "permanent" fix. especially BMW,That has me astonished there is no solution...engineers can put a spaceship on the moon,but not have dependable gasket...unreal... ty
N52 bnw z4 2006 Extremely tight between cooler and radiator. Most videos have plenty of space to work with but that model it's very difficult Center bottom bolt on cooler. No I did remove antifreeze hose partially blocking the bolt. Did want another job on top of that. I've heard the o ring break off inside of Housing. Creating another headache. I've done many jobs but this one kinda space limited especially tighting the lower bolt back in. Also off set hed ratchet would have helped. I Have more than enough tools that I've completed this job on. It's just space constraints. Don't be discouraged the job can be done just have patience
Hi John, That is a good question. You do not need to drain the oil. Crack the oil filter loose and wait a few minutes for the oil to drain back from the housing. Then you are good to go. Avoid spraying any cleaner into the engine. If you do or you get a lot of coolent into the ports then you can do an oil change after the repair. I hope this helps. My best to you and your family.
The way I feel about it is there are a lot of people that want to be able to fix their own cars and with a little guidance from videos can really get the job done well. Saving money and it gives a great sense of accomplishment. For those that would never consider picking up a wrench at least they know how the repair is performed and they will visit the dealerships and repair shops. I am the type of person that wants to fix everything myself and I love learning new tricks and repairs. Which included my well pump this year when it failed! :)
@@blackwolf1780 Sorry to hear that. You can use one of the existing nuts to match up a replacement or pick up an OEM nut from a dealer. As long as you did not lose it in an intake port and it's not inside the engine you should be ok
@@AskTheCarExperts I have a 2014 535i. 3 litre inline six, twin turbo, complete with the oil cooler leak, lol I'm getting prepared to change the gaskets and I found your video very enlightening. Thank you
The rubber gaskets between the oil filter housing and the engine, and the oil cooler to the filter housing were changed on my car about two years ago, and now the leak has returned. I bought the two gaskets from my BMW dealer and they're quite expensive for a couple of pieces of rubber. Supposedly, the original equipment gaskets from BMW aren't the best quality, and the aftermarket parts are better. I guess I'm about to find out.
@@rollydoucet8909 Glad you told me that. Make sure to check the sealing surface for any corrosion or imperfections in the sealing surface. If you find pitting it will leak again. The fix is to use JB weld and fill the pitting and sand the surface smooth. Just a small amount of JB. But it had to cure before you sand. Hope this helps!
@@AskTheCarExperts I had no issues with pitting. My car had only 23,650 miles on it in 2017 as it wasn't driven much by the previous owner. I store it every winter, and the leak started shortly after I got it out of storage. The factory warranty expired during the winter. Now, I've got just under 40,000 miles on it and the leak has returned. More than one person has told me that BMW outsourced much of their seals, rubber, and plastic components to the wrong manufacturer for a couple of years and that's why coolant and oil leak issues are so common. This time, I bought gaskets from an aftermarket supplier that specializes in German cars. Supposed to be better quality, we'll see.
@@AskTheCarExperts all good SUUUPER common mistake, alot of dealerships list them as twins too. Great info, I'm confident I'll be able to swap mine out now
Great video, most direct and well explained one on YT. Keep up the good work.
Seriously, the best description of this procedure on TH-cam! Everything else felt like a 12th grade mech shop student trying to explain kinetic theory. Great video! Subd also!
@thomasbaublitz9076 LOL 😆 Thanks for the Sub!
I have pitting on my n55 head, and the repair lasted about 15 months. Planning on reworking and decided JB weld will be my fix so was very happy to see your suggestion at 16:00!
@@andrewwynn Sorry to hear about the issue but JB and sanding does a great job
Not many vids on the f15 x5s thank you very well explained
Hi Derek! Glad this video helped! I do try to give as much helpful info as possible :)
Good information brother I will also change my alternator while I have the oil filter housing off.
Hi Patrick! I have seen quite a few alternators fail when they get saturated with oil from a bad oil filter gasket. With higher mileage vehicles or if contaminated with oil I think replacing the alternator is a smart move!
I just want to thank you for such a detailed video step by step instructions what a huge help , getting ready to tackle waiting on a few new tools .
Hi Mikenel, gald you found it helpful!
Great job with excellent descriptions! Best on youtube!, I will be tackling this next weekend. Changing out the belt, pulleys and tensioner. since they got dripped on with oil.
@kirkpersing4001 Thanks bud!
Excellent job, i was able to follow along and completed the job myself, thank you!!
Excellent! Love it!
Many thanks for the tutorial - it saved me a lot of time. The job went smoothly, and fortunately, I used my 134a evacuator, allowing me to pull the a/c lines and set them aside out of the way (I used a small snap ring spreader to release the a/c line loom brackets from the fan shroud.).
Did the job in 2.5 hours, quoted 5.5.
Again, many thanks.
Sweet Anthony!
Really nice video! Well documented and easy to follow! Thank you for sharing!
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful!
Thanks for the detailed video. About to do this job this weekend to not pay over 1000$ at the dealer.
Hi Nicholas, This is definitely a repair you can do! Gaskets are not too expensive. Labor time is what adds up fast. Best wishes with your repair!
I will change the gaskets next week. The only thing that disturbes me in this video is the fact you cannot check if the intake manifold gaskets are still in place when you retight the intake
Excellent video. I just noticed pooling at my oil filter housing and oil splash on and around the alternator. With this video I'll be tackling this myself.
Thanks Jared. Also make sure the leak is not from the oil filter cap. Aftermarket oil filters often come with a flat o ring seal. It is a common spot to leak when using non OEM filters.
@@AskTheCarExperts I'll certainly check that. It's a good amount of oil in the area but certainly a cheaper fix. Regardless, your content is still extremely valuable. Keep it up!
Could an oil cooler fail? and allow oil go into cooling system??.... I have changed both gaskets and coolant still gets milky and the engine runs good, so I don't think in a head gasket.... Thank you for replying.
Hello RP, Yes you can get mixing from a failed oil cooler. When you did the gasket did you make sure there was no pitting on the mating surface? If there is you need to use JB weld to fill the pitting and sand smooth. Also once you get oil and coolant mix in the cooling system is is very hard to remove it. There is always some residual. Keep removing the top layer of the reservoir and top off.
thank you so much, one of the best diy videos
Thanks Jon! Glad it was helpful!
This is a great video thank you I need to replace my this weekend.
Your welcome Kevin! Let me know how it goes. Hopefully it will be an easy install :)
Thanks very much it’s really helpful for people like me and a lot of us out there, 👍🏼
Thank you! Professional and thorough guide.
You are very welcome. It's great to hear my video helped!
Great video! Quick question, you didn't do an oil prime procedure? This job doesn't seem to be any different than that of an oil change? Is the ofhg oil prime that necessary? I was planning on filling the oil filter then putting the filter back in and the coolant primer. Thanks!
I agree, pretty much like an oil change. You can do an oil prime and it is recommended.
Another great vid, and this one is good for my 2013 X3. I'm doing this now for my 2013 X3 which is 99% similar. I did drop the back most 11 mm nut but will get it off the bottom shield tomorrow (Got it). Also, those press on rubber wire hangers on the back are crazy nasty to pull up. Whoever put on the lower short E-torx on the housing way over-torqued it and I was worried it wouldn't come loose using 1/4" drive and socket, but soaked in penetrating oil for a while and got it, but had to undo the "mickey mouse ears" hose connection to make room for the socket. I couldn't get it with the ratcheting wrench, my hands not strong enough. I used a dab or crazy glue to hold the rearmost manifold bolt into the socket back there. It worked too good, had a hard time getting the socket out!
I'm going to replace the serpentine belt and upper rad hose because they were soaked with oil and I dumped quite a bit of anti-freeze too. Tomorrow I'll finish up after a good cleaning and new gaskets. I didn't bleed the coolant, just added some. I'll do the oil /filter change tomorrow.
Thanks again for a really quality effort.
The job is done, no leaks and running well.
Thanks bud!
Fantastic video and great reference as I tackled the oil filter housing and oil cooler gasket change on my 11' X5. Thanks!
Hi. Can you please send me a link to that socket swivel piece? Thanks
Hello Wali, Some items are worth spending a bit more money on. My two go to Etorx E8 and E10 are Snap On 1/4 drive because they have a low profile and you can get into tight spaces with them. This set does include the two you will need from Amazon but you may want to consider ordering from Snap On for these to swivels.
amzn.to/3YMqpE1
@AskTheCarExperts thank you for the reply. Ok I'll be ordering these parts. Thank you
Great tutorial, I'm very glad to see you're back to making videos. One note for anyone doing this, the BMW blue coolant is not premixed (at least the type I've used), and should be diluted 1:1 with distilled water only. Of course, trust the directions on the bottle over me. I love the plastic bag trick to protect your belts, I wish I had done the same when changing the thermostat on my E46 328i (I used a plastic gallon water jug cut into a funnel like shape which only worked OK). I'd also recommend removing the plastic covers underneath the engine and putting puppy pads on the ground (or a large shallow container) to help contain the mess. Keep any kids and pets away as as the ethylene glycol in coolant is apparently both tasty and very poisonous.
Thank you for the great comment! Very good advice! The under body panels can be a pain to take off on the ground but it is worth the time since you will not have to clean up the mess. I use what we call pig mats at work for spills and the puppy pad idea is fantastic! Also thank you for the notes on the coolant. This is a very helpful comment for everyone!
Did you not need to take out the oil filter so arent so much oil left in the housing?
Most of the time I take the filter out and let it drain back.
Thanks for the video, only one question do i need to drain the engine oil?
Hello Ismaeel, I would recommend performing an oil change as you may introduce some coolant into the engine oil.
Very good instructions & explanations. Keep posting. Thanks
Thanks for the compliment Richard. Hopefully I will find some time to post some new videos soon. Appreciate the comment!
When you perform oil priming procedure, can you remove the fuel injector fuse instead of disconnecting each injector? If so can you tell me the fuse number for a 2013 bmw x5 VIN 5UXZV4C52D0E07865. Thank you.
Hello, There is no specific fuse for the fuel injectors. Power and ground is directly from the DME. You can unplug the low side fuel pump. Or best to disconnect the plug for the injectors at the DME.
do you think its possible to do without loosening the intake manifold to get that back bolt? maybe making up a tool to suit?
Hello, I don't think it would be worth the time invested since the intake comes off very easily. If you strip out the bolt it will make more work for you than to pull back the intake. I hope this helps.
How can you tell if your oil filter housing gasket is leaking? I can’t get a good angle to visually check.
Hi Chris, Just by the area of the leak and a visual inspection. As long as the cap is not leaking any oil in the area of the OFH would be from the gasket.
Very nice video very well explained, good job keep making more
Thanks Carlos! Glad my video helped! Thank you for posting a comment!
thank you so muc. Best video ever. Just subscribed.
Thanks Jacob! I also try and help with any advice you may need.
I just buy a 2015 bmw x5 they give me 3 months garante and I saw have that problem, my question is I can take to the dealer for that ?
Usually you have to have the selling dealer do the work first. But you can call them and ask to see if they are ok with you doing the repair at a BMW dealer. The other shop would then have to pay the final bill.
Yes it is cross threaded just a bit half turn into the housing it stop turning. Do you have a fix for this? Thank you.
Great video - only concern that I have is going back with BMW OEM gaskets considering the BMW original gaskets failed prematurely - aren't there better options available?
@sunyoungg5634 That is a great question. I purchase from FCP which has a lifetime warranty on parts. But like any gasket subjected to temperature changes, they all will break down.
Excellent diy ... ...easy step by step ...thanks... what is your tzke priming the engine ... as some N55 did seize up after the OFHG replacement . Please do comment
I would recommend to do an engine priming after. Not quite as scritical with this repair but it couldn't hurt. I do that now all the time but it was not common practice when I made this video.
@@AskTheCarExperts thank u for your quick response. Will do so .
@@AskTheCarExperts what is the fuse # to pull if we disable the fuel pump. When doing the priming .... jplz explain. Any help is greatly appreciated... is it located in the trunk. I would definetly pull that fuse nstead of taking out the wiring harness for each injector
@@mohammadhayatca3244 can you post the last seven of your vin and I can look it up for you.
@@AskTheCarExperts L740900 ... X5 3.5 TWIN TURBO
Where in the video the oil cooler gasket is being replaced? I see the oil filter housing gasket being replaced but not the other.
At 11:37 I am removing the oil cooler from the housing.
Hi, great video. Just wanted to confirm some of the tools that you used. Please confirm the size of the ratchet wrench you used on the lower bolt holding the oil filter housing.Was it a E8 or E10? You mention that it's a E8 but think its a E10. Also are all the torx sockets you used are E10/E12 and the socket you used for the manifold bolts/nuts a standard 6 point 11mm? Thanks.
Hello, Yes the lower bolt is an E10 and you will need the E10 and E12 socket. Swivel sockets are helpful and the intake manifold should be an 11 mm 6 point. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Excellent video sir. Thanks
Thanks for commenting! Glad it was helpful!
Hello, what size of socket is for the hidden screw?
I got oil mixing with Coolant in my Reservoir do you think it's because of
these seals ? The car runs fine and
and no mixing in valve cover.
Hi Dx, Yes this is the usually reason. When you remove the components check the sealing surface for pitting. If you see some you can fill with JB weld and sand down to correct. You will need to flush the cooling system a few times but keep in mind there usually always is some residue left. Just keep removing the small amount that comes to the top over time and it should help clean it out.
@@AskTheCarExperts Awesome!
Very good job you did.
Did you have to move the alternator to get the housing back on?
Hello Nicky, No you should be able to get it on with the intake pulled back s bit.
Thanks for detailed instructions. Have you tried to remove the cooler with the OFH? Would that mix more coolant with the oil? About to try this and just wondering
I have not tried that because it is recommended to replace both gaskets at the same time. You will have to let me know :)
@@AskTheCarExperts thanks for lightning fast response, was watching the video again and the bottom bolt will be awkward no matter what. I saw some other online diyers remove the two things together and then disassemble the cooler later. Was just wondering if there was some fluid mixing concern
Awesome video. I did mine 3 days ago but I must’ve connected the sensor without making sure the sensor was dry. Now my oil temperature gauge isn’t working. Do you think the sensor on the oil filter housing is the reason why?
Seems like there's a lot of stuff that gets removed for this one. Any thoughts on other good "while you are in there" type things? I'm thinking acccessory belt and possibly cleaning out the intake/walnut blasting.
Hi David, That's a great question. The N55 engine does not typically collect carbon in the intake. That was common on the N54. Take a peak at the intake ports but you most likely will not need to clean them. I would recommend the belt tensioner as it is a common failure.
i’m currently doing this and i’m on the hidden bolt and that wire is in the way i saw u broke it at 9:31 in the video is that ok to do?
@Anthony-vf3fq Hello, at 9:31 the clip for the line shattered but I am not damaging any wiring.
@@AskTheCarExpertsthis video was so helpful thank you i completed it and do you have to prime the engine oil before starting?? did you do that?
@@Anthony-vf3fq That is great! Yes, I would recommend engine priming. I have a video on that procedure.
Man I’m about done except the last bolt by the manifold. It goes in quarter way and then no more turn or very hard to. I tried a brand new bolt and the same happens. Any advice appreciate you.
You may need to loosen all of the other bolts and put that one in first. Blow out the hole with air if you can. Hopefully it did not get cross threaded.
Excellent video! Great job!
Hi Johnny! Thanks for the comment!
I didn't get the part that you have to use a battery charger. Did you disconnect the battery in the trunk by any chance?
I would disconnect the battery during the repairs to prevent any accidental shorts to the jump terminal.
I have done this job on 2013 335i, N55. I still have oil in coolant and there is no pitting on mating surfaces. Any other idea what can cause this? Cylinder leak down test proves head gasket is good.
Hi Jeff, If the mixing already occurred it is very hard to get all the oil out and it can look like continued contamination.
Thanks for the very helpful video. Quick question...when I was putting the intake manifold back on, the second to last nut slipped and fell down before I secured it on the post. I reached down with a magnet but came up empty. The manifold was fully seated and it looks like it fell into an open area. Could it have fallen into a critical spot and do major damage or is it likely sitting on a rail or down on the splash guard? Thanks again.
Hi Joel, Most likely it fell into a cavity outside the engine. If the intake was fully seated it is unlikely it fell into the intake port. But if it did find its way in then major engine damage can result. If you have any doubt you should inspect the intake ports and remove the plug and inspect the cylinder. That would be a very bad day to damage your engine over 1 lost nut.
@@AskTheCarExperts Thank you for the quick response. Very helpful.
Hi I need help I have a little pooling of oil next to the cap for the oil do I need to replace both gaskets or should I be fine if I just did the oil housing gasket
Hello, can you clarify if you have oil around the filler cap on the valve cover or around the oil filter cap? Thanks
@@AskTheCarExperts it’s more on the filler cap we’re the cap is there a small dime size pool of oil that just sits there after I wipe it after I ride it for a few hours it comes back I had a oil change and my mechanic said if it comes back then it’s not the oil filter because we did the oil change he said it’s the oil cooler gasket but I’m just trying to double check i don’t see oil anywhere else just there in that little pit
@@user-bs9mw1cz9o One common problem is from using aftermarket filters. The O ring for the filter cap is flat not round like an oem filter. This can lead to leaks from the cap just from a bad o ring
Quality video
Thanks bud! Thanks for being with my channel for the past 8 years!
How do you get the nut at the driver wall? I could not get on it slip off. All those wires in the way too. How did you raise the barrier to clear all the wires. My clip it is impossible for me to push up. I am referring to the last nut in the back
It's all by feel in the back. You can try a swivel with electrical tape wrapped around the pivot for better tension and control. Tap the end of the extension to help seat the socket.
@@AskTheCarExperts I might have to unscrew the barrier and move wires to get to that nut. I got a mirror but them wires blocking my view. It feels like the stud and nut are angle and not perpendicular. This is why I couldn't get in the 11 or 12 mm .
My belt brokes due to leaking OHG. I took off the fan cowl and removed the crank pulley. Shredded belts was wrapped behind crank pulley. I removed the remnants and the seal looks new. However, some electrical wires is torn at the sleeve so I will have to wrap them with electrical tape.
Thanks for the reply and the video is awesome. Much appreciate your time.
Men you are good. Clear steps.
Great video! Saving me $1k by doing it myself instead of BMW.. apparently my drivetrain warranty doesn’t cover the oil filter housing seal. 🤷🏻♂️
Hi Michael, Great to hear my video helped! Thank you for posting a comment.
Just got a ofhg repair reimbursement lawsuit letter in the mail.
@@idontgotnothin how?
Thanks for the video it’s very well done it’s not that I haven’t done any yet but it’s interesting to see if there’s a different way to do it and there is I didn’t know about the A/C flexible lines but what I do on all BMW now is replace the plastic coolant flange close to the short bolt on the oil filter housing I buy it from my German Car part suppler it’s made of aluminum I just cut the rubber hose close to the metal clip then you loose very little hose this is where I drain most of the coolant. One other thing I do is remove the oil filter From the housing then suck all the oil from it so it doesn’t leak as much when you remove the housing the broken cylinder head bolt I saw this for the first time not that long ago.
Thank you for the additional notes and posting!
Did you prime the oil filter ? I was told the engine will cease up if you dont.
It is a good idea to prime after the repair. Disable the injectors or fuel pump and crank the engine over a few times for 5 sec intervals and wait a few minutes in between to let the starter rest.
@@AskTheCarExpertsThanks excellent video on this repair You did a wonderful job of giving step by step procedures You should include the oil priming alot of people dont know about this critical and final procedure.
@@MrRepsMrReps Thanks for the great feedback. Glad the video helped!
Great Video
Do you have to bleed or purge the oil. ?
Does this happen to a lot of f10's or just cars driven really hard. I'm really not looking forward to this with my f10. What cost am I looking at from the local mechanic or dealer?
Hello, Unfortunately this is common on all 4 and 6 cylinder engines. I am not sure what the dealer cost would be but for the home mechanic the parts are not very expensive. However the labor for the install is where the cost goes up if you have it done at a dealer or independent shop.
@@AskTheCarExperts thanks. Since I've got you on the line I have a question for you. I recently had my oil changed after 1 year and 4k miles. The guy didn't let every last drop come out of the car. While I turned my head he closed up the plug while there was still a spaghetti sized trickle coming out. I didn't say anything but I wasn't happy about it. Why not do the job right? Is this common and is it a concern?
Very helpful video!
Thanks Siri!
Nice job man!!
Thanks Leonardo! Glad my video helped!
Oil system needs to be purged?
Here is the service procedure......
newTIS.info beta
BMW E70 X5 M SAV / Repair Manuals and Technical Data / 11 Engine / 11 00 Engine /
Repair notes on renewing the engine
Engine damage due to lack of engine oil.
Lack of engine oil after the oil circuit components are repaired or after the engine is renewed may cause damage to the engine.
Do not start the engine after the oil circuit components are repaired or after the engine is renewed without following the repair notes.
The repair notes on carrying out repairs on the oil circuit components or renewing the engine must be followed.
For additional information, see: Repair notes on carrying out repairs on the oil circuit components or renewing the engine
Problem
After the engine is renewed, the lack of engine oil may damage the engine.
Cause
An exchange engine is not pre-filled with engine oil.
An exchange engine may still have an unknown residual amount of engine oil in the oil sump resulting from the assembly of the engine.
This residual amount of engine oil is not sufficient to operate the engine.
A lack of supply of engine oil due to a low oil level may damage the engine immediately after the engine is started.
The electronic measurement of the oil level is possible only if the engine is running and the engine oil is at operating temperature.
The electronic measurement of the oil level therefore must not be carried out.
Solution
The engine oil must be drained fully after the exchange engine is installed. For additional information, see: Maintenance instructions "00 00 252 and 00 00 610 Engine oil service".
Observe the sign in the engine compartment! Only pour in approved engine oil with the correct SAE viscosity classification.
Fill the correct quantity of engine oil in the engine. For additional information, see: Maintenance instructions "00 00 252 and 00 00 610 Engine oil service".
Engine oil
Technically suitable engine oils for BMW Group engines
3.0 Technically appropriate engine oils for BMW Group engines
Connect battery charger.
Damage to the starter motor.
An excessively long and uninterrupted operating period of the starter motor may damage the starter motor.
Note the maximum permissible uninterrupted operating period of the starter motor. Allow the starter motor to cool down before a new operation.
Before the first engine start, the engine only needs to be turned with the starter (without combustion) for a few seconds.. The maximum permissible uninterrupted operating period must not be exceeded. Additionally, the starter motor must be cooled down for a few seconds before being operated again.
Starter motor
Maximum permissible uninterrupted operating period 10 s of the starter motor
Minimum cooling-down period immediately after 20 s operation
The fuse of the electric fuel pump must be removed to guarantee this.
Turning the engine with the starter motor (without combustion) ensures that the engine has a sufficient supply of engine oil to start the engine regularly thereafter.
Turn the engine with the starter motor (without combustion) for the stipulated period of time. Allow the starter motor to cool down for the stipulated period of time.
Carry out the previous two steps 2 more times.
Then install the fuse of the electric fuel pump.
Delete the fault memory.
Start engine.
Bring the engine to operating temperature. Measure the oil level electronically.
Additional Information
Overview Technical Data Starter motor
Maximum permissible uninterrupted operating period 10 s of the starter motor
Minimum cooling-down period immediately after 20 s operation
Links
Operating materials
3.0 Technically appropriate engine oils for BMW Group engines
For informational purposes only. The information on this website is provided AS-IS with no warranties, express or implied, and is not guaranteed to be error-free, up-to-date or complete. Newtis.info and BMW assume no liability for any loss or damage arising from the use or reliance on the information and content on this website. The content on this website is subject to change without notice.
Very good 👍🏿
Thanks bud!
nice video, i am going to assume that this is a half day or longer job? how long would this take?
If this is the first time you have done this repair it may take 3 hours. Overall difficulty is is not too bad with the correct tools.
I just replace my timing chain & water got into my cylinders. I remove the spark plugs and got it out. Now milky stuff shoots out of dipstick. What should I do?
That's not good. Hopefully no damage occurred. Do a few oil changes but if you still get coolant and oil mixing it may be a head gasket or failed coolant jacket.
Thanks for the video, i have to replace my OFHG soon. I noticed some people on the internet, that had a spun rod bearing after replacing the OFHG(the belt still intact). Any logical explanation for that? Or any advice for rod bearings in general on the N55 engine? Thanks a lot.
Hi, yes there is a procedure I would recommend. The current procedure to do when the oil circuit is opened is to turn the engine over by hand 2 x and then with a charger on the vehicle and the fuel system disabled (fuel pump fuse or unplug the low side pump) crank the engine for 5 sec intervals letting the starter rest for 1 min in between and do this 4x. This re prunes the system. Also you should double up on your oil changes and try to avoid short distance driving that allows water build up in the oil. I hope this helps!
AskTheCarExperts oooh now i understand. So there may be a true connection betewen OFHG replacement and rod bearing failure. Thanks a lot for the life saving advice! It all makes sense now :)
@@primoz990 Your welcome :) This should be performed on any repair that interrupts the oil circuit. That would include vehicles that have sat for a long time, vanos unit and solenoid replacement, oil pan removal, or any major engine internal work. Thanks for asking a great question! I think others will get a lot of value from it!
AskTheCarExperts Yes, you are 100% right on that. I see you have a lot experience with BMW N series engines in general. Any experience with spun rod bearings on the N55? Some people had this fatal issue on low mileage cars for no obvious reason. Any info on that maybe? I am thinking to preventive replace the rod bearings on my N55 with 125k miles.
@@primoz990 I have seen quite a few bottom end problems on the N55. I would also recommend checking your oil filter and looking for any signs of copper. I think most failures stem from BMW's current oil change interval. People I know that do an oil change every 5,000 or less have a lot less problems. I have also seen failures from cold weather due to emulsified oil due to short distance driving. I know in Canada they install block heaters. I think this should be done in all cold weather climates. I have yet to install one though :)
For removing the alternator would you need to remove the oil filter housing gasket?
Hi Vinny, Yes the alternator can be removed without touching the oil filter housing
@@AskTheCarExperts is it possible you have a picture showing it? Im trying to remove the bolt behind all that cable on the back by feel and seem impossible. Smh
Hi there great video. BMW are suggesting 4 hours for this job but I think that may be because they include removing the manifold completely. What’s a reasonable time for the job if you do it this way?
Hello, Any shop will quote you book time. Actual time depends on your skill level. From 1 to 3 hours.
I drilled part of the manifold, just enough to get the screw out, 20 minute job with some mechanical experience. I just add coolant, didn't get to purge the system, car runs great.
Hi Bud... question. have you installed a oil catch can on your N55, i see lot of folks are doing it on N55 and N54 motors... any advise?
Unfortunately I don't have any experience with oil catch cans. I did hear about catch cans causing some problems if the water in the can gets sucked into the intake. As long as you drive the vehicle normally and maintain your BMW well it should last a long time.
@@AskTheCarExperts Thanks bud. Highly appreciated your valuable feedback.
Great video, super helpful. Thanks!
Great to hear! Thanks for posting a comment :)
How many miles on the vehicle at the time of this job ?
I think it was around 90K
Hi Bud, I have totally different question for you on BMW X3 E83 2008. I was driving few days back all of sudden "RED color Airbag light plus Yellow color Break light (parking break) and Yellow 4x4 light came on. There is no engine performance issue it runs fine. any advise bud.
Hello Tahir, Hard to say what might be going on without a scan for codes. I might be able to help once you are able to do a scan.
@@AskTheCarExperts thanks bud for very quick replay... appreciated it. There is no fault code or Engine Service light On. do you still want me to scan for codes etc?
@@tahirrana6875 No worries. Glad to try and help. With the warning you have there will be codes for the transfer case and DSC modules and possibly the airbag system.
I drilled part of the intake to allow me to replace the gasket, 20 minute job.
Interesting, have not heard of that. Glad it helped!
@AskTheCarExperts it helped, job done in 20 minutes after, only 3 screws.
Great video !!! Thanks !!!
Glad you liked it!
I currently went through a oil housing leak and engine gasket leak all fixed now, brand new ECU been replaced too ,but the only issue I’m having is an air leak and the garage can’t seem to find it they checked every single part did smoke test too , this happens everytime I connect the mass air flow sensor the car misfires and mixture too lean and once I disconnect it the car runs smoothly but ofc with less power and more fuel burning please help me someone as nobody knows where the air leak is coming from ! Thanks 🙏
You might have dislodged one of your manifold gaskets while doing the job.
Does this apply for my e71 2013 bmw x6 35i? Thinking of doing this myself.
Hello, This repair would be for any vehicle with the N55 engine. If your not sure run your VIN in realoem.com and you can confirm you have the N55 vs N54
@@AskTheCarExperts ok great it's a n55 engine, I took my car to the dealer for an airbag recall and they said I have a leak on the oil filter housing gasket. I dont see any leaks or any pooling on my driveway, is there any way to know for sure that's the problem? My mileage is at 87k, you think I should just get it done as a preventive measure. Also do you think I should change belt and tensor while I'm in the process? Sorry for the overwhelming amount of questions..
@@infamous87ny Take a look at the underside of the housing. This is usually where the leak starts. Using and inspection mirror can help. Also check the coolant lines going to the cooler for any signs of oil which can make the hoses swell. I hope this helps. If your not a subscriber please subscribe :)
@@AskTheCarExperts already subscribed, thank you!!
No need to do engine oil priming procedure?
1500$ to fix at the dealer. Norway. Nice video
Thanks Tony! Glad to hear the video helped!
I had no where near that much room to work with removing and replacing these gaskets
06 BMW z4 3.0si..
But I completed the job before it started to even start to leak
I didn't sand down just used brake cleaner.
That's great Terrence! Being preventative is smart. Once the oil gets onto the drive belts they need to be replaced and I have often seen the drive belts come apart leading to engine damage.
Very helpful. Thanks!
Glad my video helped!
After how many miles these gasket tend to fail ?
Normally anywhere from 60 to 120k miles.
🚨 Engine oil priming is also recommended after this job or you may have air bubble in oil system. Many blew their engines after doing this job without priming the engine. 🚨
It is a great recommendation. I have not seen an engine fail from not priming on an oil filter housing gasket but any repair that interrupts the oil circuit priming is recommended.
@@AskTheCarExperts do you know how to do the engine priming? I was following other methods like pulling out fuse 165 but the engine still started :(.
Yep my engine blew. The dealer didn’t prime the oil.
@@roadhouseguy That sucks. Are they replacing it for free for you?
Excellent diy ...
What's the part number for this housing?
Hello, Are you looking for the part number of the gasket or the entire housing? If you can give me the last seven if the Vin I can look it up.
Awesome - thank you
Your welcome Oliver :) Thanks for posting a comment.
Could really do with your advice actually
Regarding a steering related noice / vibration when turning the steering on idle
@@oliverfernandez4273 I would be happy to try and help. Best to contact me via my website at www.askthecarexperts.com and send me the last seven of your VIN, description of the issue and your contact info
8mm works as good as the gear wrench on bottom bolt of housing
Thanks for sharing this tip Richard!
Hi Thank you for the excellent and in great detail video . great explanation and camera work. I have a 2013 bmw x5 35i 3.0 litre turbo. QUESTION>>> It seems this is a common problem with these gasket failures, Does BMW have these replacement gaskets made out of revised/ better composite material?? If not it will only be a matter of time to have to be redone again and again in the future. Or is there another gasket company (Felpro/McCord) that do obviously make a better revision gasket to replace these "known problem" gaskets. ty Sir in advance
This is usually an age and time related failure due to expansion and contraction. Bmw does not make a different gasket. It is the same material as the original. You could try a different gasket but I am not familiar with other brand gaskets and longevity.
@@AskTheCarExperts ,Ty Sir for the quick response and input.I guess I am just comparing it to my 2006 v6 toyota highlander and never ever had any issues with any gaskets on it with 400 thousand kilometers with Zero issues.....i would have thought"German Engineers would look for a " permanent fix for good gasket" because it is a BMW which is/suppose to be a higher class vehicle. my 2013 x5 35i was done at dealership at 79,000 kilometers,now it has 142.,000 kilo and its leaking again... not impressed with it as it compounds other mechanical problems,Serpentine belt/ front main oil crankshaft seal/or engine remotely, could be destroyed for a $10.00 gasket modification/revision. So BMW will have this problem in all of it upcoming vehicles... Engineering$%^&* wow .ty for your thoughts and input . Excellent videos and please keep posting videos and excellent teaching ty
@@battlehrfred agreed 100%
You can sometimes get away with an 8mm or 5/16th swivel on that hidden bolt if you dont have E ttorx drivers
does the intake have to be removed?? I did hear it can be done without removing the intake on N55 Engine,i assume its a lot harder to get at that bolt and time consuming ty
@@battlehrfred No but you need to have some flexibility to get at the one bolt on the oil housing If you have an 8mm or 5/16 swivel socket it should be able to remove the torx bolt
@@alexlaverick6111 , Ok ty Sir for your prompt response
@@battlehrfred i use a 5/16 quarter inch drive flex socket on the lower torx bolt with a mid length extension Works every time
If any of the rubber hoses attached to the oil filter housing are damaged from oil replace them as well. They will leak sooner or later
@@alexlaverick6111 ty for your excellent info.I will be ordering "Mahle seals/gaskets from Rockauto,hopefully they will last,because its hard to believe that some Company/Supplier do not have a "permanent" fix. especially BMW,That has me astonished there is no solution...engineers can put a spaceship on the moon,but not have dependable gasket...unreal... ty
This is typical of a BMW repair. Minutes to fix the actual leak....hours to access it. lol
I would love to see someone do this same exact job on a bmw z4 3.0si...
I don't think anyone will ever TH-cam this job on that car...
Hello Terrence, What engine specifically where you looking for? N52 or N55?
N52 bnw z4 2006
Extremely tight between cooler and radiator.
Most videos have plenty of space to work with but that model it's very difficult
Center bottom bolt on cooler. No I did remove antifreeze hose partially blocking the bolt. Did want another job on top of that.
I've heard the o ring break off inside of Housing. Creating another headache.
I've done many jobs but this one kinda space limited especially tighting the lower bolt back in. Also off set hed ratchet would have helped. I Have more than enough tools that I've completed this job on. It's just space constraints.
Don't be discouraged the job can be done just have patience
How many hours did this take you the first time ? Great video, thanks for sharing.
Glad you found it helpful John. I really don't remember how long since the first time I did this was quite a while ago.
This may be silly to ask, but do you need to drain the oil before doing this repair?
Hi John, That is a good question. You do not need to drain the oil. Crack the oil filter loose and wait a few minutes for the oil to drain back from the housing. Then you are good to go. Avoid spraying any cleaner into the engine. If you do or you get a lot of coolent into the ports then you can do an oil change after the repair. I hope this helps. My best to you and your family.
AS ALWAYS VERY HELPFULL. I M SURE THE STEELERS WILL NOT BE HAPPY WHEN DUMIES LIKE ME CAN DO THIS.....WIILDHEERE
The way I feel about it is there are a lot of people that want to be able to fix their own cars and with a little guidance from videos can really get the job done well. Saving money and it gives a great sense of accomplishment. For those that would never consider picking up a wrench at least they know how the repair is performed and they will visit the dealerships and repair shops. I am the type of person that wants to fix everything myself and I love learning new tricks and repairs. Which included my well pump this year when it failed! :)
A female age 23, never turned a wrench. Couple days ago on the forums everybody talked her thru it. She got it done.
thank you so much for your video, save me 900$
Hi Khoi! That is great! Love to hear it helped!
Dropped one of the nuts🔩 😭😭
Oh no, For the intake manifold?
@@AskTheCarExperts yeah
@@blackwolf1780 Sorry to hear that. You can use one of the existing nuts to match up a replacement or pick up an OEM nut from a dealer. As long as you did not lose it in an intake port and it's not inside the engine you should be ok
Great video! garbage car to own.
This job would take half the time if it wasn't necessary to undo the intake manifold.
Hello Rolly, Yes indeed. On the N51 and N52 engine it is much easier. I hope the video helped!
@@AskTheCarExperts I have a 2014 535i. 3 litre inline six, twin turbo, complete with the oil cooler leak, lol I'm getting prepared to change the gaskets and I found your video very enlightening. Thank you
The rubber gaskets between the oil filter housing and the engine, and the oil cooler to the filter housing were changed on my car about two years ago, and now the leak has returned. I bought the two gaskets from my BMW dealer and they're quite expensive for a couple of pieces of rubber. Supposedly, the original equipment gaskets from BMW aren't the best quality, and the aftermarket parts are better. I guess I'm about to find out.
@@rollydoucet8909 Glad you told me that. Make sure to check the sealing surface for any corrosion or imperfections in the sealing surface. If you find pitting it will leak again. The fix is to use JB weld and fill the pitting and sand the surface smooth. Just a small amount of JB. But it had to cure before you sand. Hope this helps!
@@AskTheCarExperts I had no issues with pitting. My car had only 23,650 miles on it in 2017 as it wasn't driven much by the previous owner. I store it every winter, and the leak started shortly after I got it out of storage. The factory warranty expired during the winter. Now, I've got just under 40,000 miles on it and the leak has returned. More than one person has told me that BMW outsourced much of their seals, rubber, and plastic components to the wrong manufacturer for a couple of years and that's why coolant and oil leak issues are so common. This time, I bought gaskets from an aftermarket supplier that specializes in German cars. Supposed to be better quality, we'll see.
But the n55 isn't a twin turbo engine lol
Lol I may have misspoke at some point. The N54 is the twin turbo. I am sure I meant to say single turbo dual scroll.
@@AskTheCarExperts all good SUUUPER common mistake, alot of dealerships list them as twins too. Great info, I'm confident I'll be able to swap mine out now
+1
Awesome! Very neat explains. Thank you so much
Your welcome! Thanks for posting a comment!