Lol pushes the anchor up on its metal part damaging shingles instead of using its wheels, then leaves the anchor wonky at the peak. Boy oh boy. Aye... Miguel!!!
I'll stick with my homemade chicken ladders. We make them outta pressure treated 2x6s and some hardware. I have them in multiple links and they've always worked just fine for me. One advantage I do see with this product is the weight, sometimes it's quite a struggle to get that 16 foot 2x6 hooked at the peak. I would use this thing, if someone bought it for me as a gift...
The wheels are there specifically to avoid that but the designers overlooked the fact the nobody is going to push it up with the pole parallel to the roof slope where the wheels would touch first. Poorly designed product.
I fail to understand any advantage of the pole. You still need to shoot a ladder up the roof to connect with the s hook. And riding on the back wheel of the s hook is easier. You can just connect a ladder the shook and then you have a pole. If this is only about a life line while working on a side of a house, you have a big problem. If you do not put one of these every 6 feet, you will Tarzan swing sideways, knocking into other guys/chimneys/ladder setups/other ladders, and it is possible a sideways swing could twist and dislodge the peak hook. If the system offered you 6 or 8 hooks for a few hundred dollars, it would make sense on 2 sides of the house. Unfortunately, usually 2 sides of the house are perpendicular to the Ridge. If a roof exceeded my 20 foot type 3 section, it would make some sense for lifeline anchors for siding working. I guess I need to know what is trying to be achieved--roof work or siding work. Or just an easier way to shoot a long ladder up, by pulling the ladder up via pulley and rope. If this is the case, I can't see how the hook is going to be safely, reliably attached to the hook from below, before using the ladder to get to the peak. I naturally would be interested in various applications that you find for it. Also, compare its weight with a standard ladder s-hook. If it were made of aluminum, and were extremely lightweight, it would worth more. A standard steel s hook is something like 5 or 7 lb. I have 2 models. The older one is probably 4 lbs, but I have never bothered weighing them.
@@jimchimney7240 I did. I now better understand it. As I understand, it allows us to put up a roof hook with a rope attached (via extension pole) . I guess a person then pulls themselves up by the rope (which puzzles me as to the safety certainty). Then 4 lag screws are screwed in, hopefully to a stud or truss (the promotion video did not tell us how to find them). I could see buying 8 units for $400, as a set, which would allow fall protection without Tarzan Swing Problem for the roof and 2 house sides. A bee removal person might like them, as it would offer fall protection for a few feet wide working area. I am not sure how good of an investment for trades that need to have 360 degree fall protection of the structure. Also, I usually shoot a 20 foot section of a light duty 40 foot ladder with an attached s hook. If too far, I use several homemade J hooks to hang the ladder on to build a virtual Stair case to the peak or just up the dormer side. I got to say that it is not always easy to shoot a 20 foot section with an s hook up to the peak. If this tool were to be used to make getting the shook ladder up more easily, it would be rather useful, as I am not getting any younger.... So if the device allowed a pulley to pull up the shook ladder and over the peak, it would add value to its single anchor point for $400.
And here I've been cleaning chimneys on 10/12s with nothing. Been doing it 2 years and have never tied off. I'm not bragging. I'm wondering if I should quit. 🤣
hang on, you have a 100% standard roof hook ladder already in place so, apart form getting You Tube hits, what is the point of this video, you didn't even climb using the "thing"
The title of the video says “first experience with ridge pro.” I’ll try explaining what that means…this was our first time using it, the ladder was there as a stand by in case it was necessary to descend the roof. You are free, however, to continue thinking that taking the time to fully understand how to use and to gain comfort with a new tool is a “waste of time an money.” I’ve never once found training to be either of those two things. Thanks for the comment
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What pole are you using?
Lol pushes the anchor up on its metal part damaging shingles instead of using its wheels, then leaves the anchor wonky at the peak. Boy oh boy. Aye... Miguel!!!
I'll stick with my homemade chicken ladders. We make them outta pressure treated 2x6s and some hardware. I have them in multiple links and they've always worked just fine for me. One advantage I do see with this product is the weight, sometimes it's quite a struggle to get that 16 foot 2x6 hooked at the peak. I would use this thing, if someone bought it for me as a gift...
Grind then shingles
😂 seen that also
The wheels are there specifically to avoid that but the designers overlooked the fact the nobody is going to push it up with the pole parallel to the roof slope where the wheels would touch first. Poorly designed product.
Would you Recommend this to I’m really interested
I like it. I still carry it on my truck
@@jimchimney7240 I’m interested on using for Christmas lights .out of the 2 set ups u have Which would you go with .as Comfort and pricing
same looking to get it for Christmas lights as well. Wonder if its any good.
@@comradeclean4530 i just ordered mine with taxes it’s almost $600
@@gabrielsalazar6648Super cool, where did you order from? I'm in Canada so will probably have to pay more.
I fail to understand any advantage of the pole. You still need to shoot a ladder up the roof to connect with the s hook. And riding on the back wheel of the s hook is easier. You can just connect a ladder the shook and then you have a pole.
If this is only about a life line while working on a side of a house, you have a big problem. If you do not put one of these every 6 feet, you will Tarzan swing sideways, knocking into other guys/chimneys/ladder setups/other ladders, and it is possible a sideways swing could twist and dislodge the peak hook.
If the system offered you 6 or 8 hooks for a few hundred dollars, it would make sense on 2 sides of the house. Unfortunately, usually 2 sides of the house are perpendicular to the Ridge.
If a roof exceeded my 20 foot type 3 section, it would make some sense for lifeline anchors for siding working.
I guess I need to know what is trying to be achieved--roof work or siding work. Or just an easier way to shoot a long ladder up, by pulling the ladder up via pulley and rope. If this is the case, I can't see how the hook is going to be safely, reliably attached to the hook from below, before using the ladder to get to the peak.
I naturally would be interested in various applications that you find for it. Also, compare its weight with a standard ladder s-hook. If it were made of aluminum, and were extremely lightweight, it would worth more. A standard steel s hook is something like 5 or 7 lb. I have 2 models. The older one is probably 4 lbs, but I have never bothered weighing them.
I recommend watching a different video to find the answers your questions. We were still learning this tool and is uses at the time of recording.
@@jimchimney7240 I did. I now better understand it.
As I understand, it allows us to put up a roof hook with a rope attached (via extension pole) . I guess a person then pulls themselves up by the rope (which puzzles me as to the safety certainty). Then 4 lag screws are screwed in, hopefully to a stud or truss (the promotion video did not tell us how to find them).
I could see buying 8 units for $400, as a set, which would allow fall protection without Tarzan Swing Problem for the roof and 2 house sides. A bee removal person might like them, as it would offer fall protection for a few feet wide working area. I am not sure how good of an investment for trades that need to have 360 degree fall protection of the structure. Also, I usually shoot a 20 foot section of a light duty 40 foot ladder with an attached s hook. If too far, I use several homemade J hooks to hang the ladder on to build a virtual Stair case to the peak or just up the dormer side.
I got to say that it is not always easy to shoot a 20 foot section with an s hook up to the peak. If this tool were to be used to make getting the shook ladder up more easily, it would be rather useful, as I am not getting any younger.... So if the device allowed a pulley to pull up the shook ladder and over the peak, it would add value to its single anchor point for $400.
And here I've been cleaning chimneys on 10/12s with nothing. Been doing it 2 years and have never tied off. I'm not bragging. I'm wondering if I should quit. 🤣
Yes, you should.
Good way to die faster 😂
It may work on slate roof .I wouldn't try it thou .on a tiled roof it would be a death trap .ripples on tiles
I suggest lifts for slate and/or tile roofs
@@jimchimney7240 what about cedar roofs would this work
How could anyone trust a gripping item with their life?
hang on, you have a 100% standard roof hook ladder already in place
so, apart form getting You Tube hits, what is the point of this video, you didn't even climb using the "thing"
You’re right. I still prefer hook ladders to this thing. I only use it as a harness point these days
Could of just climbed the ladder already there assuming it was hooked. Ya waste time an money .
The title of the video says “first experience with ridge pro.” I’ll try explaining what that means…this was our first time using it, the ladder was there as a stand by in case it was necessary to descend the roof.
You are free, however, to continue thinking that taking the time to fully understand how to use and to gain comfort with a new tool is a “waste of time an money.” I’ve never once found training to be either of those two things.
Thanks for the comment
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 just dumb