What I like about Robs videos, is that unlike the others, he does not publish perfectly executed jobs, he shows typical issues we all tend to run into on installing hinges or other projects, and shows us the fixes.
Wonderful. As a DIYer, I am so relieved to see an expert such as you using multiple attempts to fit the door, adjusting the screw holes, and squaring the hinges. Thank you.
I wish I met you when I was a kid and was able to be mentored. I did mostly rough framing and construction for around 15 years and never met or seen anyone with your skill level and knowledge. I do many projects and have to settle sometimes as my tools are mostly homeowner or mid level and my skills aren’t fine tuned for the precise cuts yet for furniture making. Love the videos and the hand tools keep it coming!
I am impressed with your patience and the deliberation of your movements. I would like to see how you mortise a hinge with a chisel as i have no router plane.
Wow, another fantastic Rob-school session~! I continue to be amazed by your work and the ability to teach it as you go. I never would have imagined having a router plane in my collection before discovering your channel (years ago), but it is such a great asset. I had the small first and have recently picked up the large. Not sure why I've not thought of using it for hinge mortises, but that's why I'm the student and you're the master~!! Thanks for the great session series~! (...and I'd love to meet the clowns that had the nerve to give this video a thumbs-down and ask WHY??)
Tremendous detail you have showed us, thank you. This video has great practical educational value. And big kudos to your tremendous camera person (audio, too).
You weren't kidding about the sticker shock on the hinges, but the 'good ' hinges are beautiful and make a huge difference in both functional and looks. (I had no idea they were available, thanks much for pointing out!) As usual your clear and precise presentation is a joy to watch (and a great, fun challenge for me to replicate...) Thanks a bunch for another master lesson!
I'm starting to learn the difficulty of balancing quality and time. A craftsperson always has the desire to get things as close to perfect as possible, but as they say, time is money. Thank you for sharing the video.
What's amazing to me is that you can buy (by your own admission) quality hinges and still need to square them, deburr the back sides of the screw holes and enlarge the countersink for the heads. Personally, if I needed to go through that much trouble I would have spent the time sourcing hinges that were the size I wanted rather than using what was on hand. This aside, a fine tutorial. Thanks.
Great job Rob, a technic I like to use after breaking off many brass screws even with a pilot hole especially in hardwoods, is to first cut the threads with a steel screw and use them during the fit up and then replace them with brass screws and only use them once.
Rob, some years ago I came across some fine cabinet makers in Yorkshire here in the UK. They had replicated the projecting profile of the barrel (knuckle) of the cabinet door hinges with an identical bead along the edge woodwork, it looked fantastic. I don't know how they did it given the pivot point is neither in the door nor frame, didn't have a chance to ask them or take any pictures - a little like your hidden box hinge, it's one of those things I've aspired to make.
I noticed your reveal in one area was 1/256" larger than the rest. I think you need some x300 magnification goggles. 😉 Good work, I learn a lot from you.
Thanks so much for this, super helpful! One question from a beginner. Do I need a marking gauge, or can I just make a pencil line across the long side of the hinge and just chisel down inside that line? Or does that increase the level of difficulty too much? Thanks!
Funny I have a push drill from before there were cordless drills . It’s in my tool box some where . I’ll have to dig it back out. Old school baby yah. I’m glad I still have it . Missing a few bits though .
If you buy drawn brass butt hinges the countersink should match traditional countersink slot head brass screws. The screw head should be recessed a little. It is best to use same size steel screws first if hardwood and second fit with the brass. This minimises the likelihood of the brass screws shearing or the screwdriver slipping from the slot. Set the hinges so that the radius of the fulcrum only protrudes, so set the marking gauge to the leaf width plus the radius. You may need to chamfer the edge. Lining up the screw head slots is usual.
With setting the router plane to finish depth, have you considered placing both hinges on the bench and sit the router plane on top, one hinge at each end and drop the blade till it reaches your bench. Do you always set your hinges flush, or do you leave them a little high so you can trim later? Will you be adding a door stop inside the frame? Brilliant idea to squaring the hinge
Were the screws you used supplied by the hinge manufacturer? The hinge didn't seem to be made for the modern screw with the thick head. I rue the day the slotted head wood screw with the sharp edge at the head chamfer and the proper thread design for wood met its demise! The hinge you used although being premium grade and probably quite expensive was really inferior considering all the work required to bring it into specification! Keep up the good work, JIM
As always I learned something new, in this case the use of a rebate plane to cut hinge recesses. One point however in the UK solid hinges such as you were fitting have an odd number of knuckles on each leaf. I would always put the larger number of knuckles on the cabinet e.g for a 5 knuckle hinge 3 on the carcase and 2 on the door. Any comment?
Just noticed my proof reading error, predicative text error.Rebate plane should of course have read router plane. To expand a little on the orientation of odd numbered hinge knuckles comment. On the door Rob was hinging the orientation of the knuckles issue is simply an aesthetic issue. However on a larger heavier door having the larger number of knuckles on the frame contributes to the effectiveness, strength of the hinges. Certainly having both hinges orientated the same way is for aesthetic reasons.
Great lesson!! A question: How do you account for the seasonal expansion and contraction of the wood in the rails and stiles with such precise fitting?
There is none..... it may rub sometimes. Cabinets or drawers with such tight tolerances will have to be adjusted in later years when the wood settles 😁
Rob, why wouldn't you do a whole kitchen like that? (referring to the last remark made by Rob) What would you do differently when making kitchen cabinets?
Jigs and templates for a router can speed things up considerably. On the other hand, there are those who find the manual process cathartic and don't mind how long it takes. The cash saved on hiring a tradesman, covers their wives' therapy.
Better way to remove the burr on the drilled holes is to take a drill bit and wrap the end with duct tape and then twist it with your fingers to make a small countersink. This is one of the things I learned 30 years ago working in a machine shop.
@@CabinetFramingUK Basically you wrap the end that you would normally chuck with tape masking tape probably being better than duct tape and then use the drill bit to countersink the hole very slightly by rotating the drill with your fingers . this will work for soft metals such as brass and aluminum . for steels you would use a handle in place of the tape think a dowel with a hole in it the sale size as the drill . Of course if you were Mr. Cosman you could just use your bit brace with a suitable size drill and just turn the handle 2or 3 times . P.S. that wasn't snark it was just another idea I had . After all not everybody has a bit brace and a set of Jennings pattern bits. I hope this answers any body's questions as to what I was describing.
It appears that the stiles are about 2 1/2 to 3 inches wide, which makes a total of about 5 to 6 inches of door width subject to seasonal expansion. Is this an issue with the tight fit that you created between the door and the cabinet?
You are correct, however, I am building these doors at the most humid time of year where I live, so the wood will likely only shrink from where it is now so I can get away with a very tight fit. If I was making this in Dec or Jan when it dry where I live then I would have to go with a larger gap or accept refitting the door in summer
In your previous video after fitting the door to the hanging side and the bottom of the cabinet , you could have planed a joint on the RH stile and top rail the thickness of a steel rule. That would have giving you a 1/32" joint all round after cutting the hinges. That is the gap between the two hinge leafs when closed.
god im so frustrated.... was all excited about getting the trend diamond stone, .... and there is a 2-1/2 thousandths dish in the 1000 grit side of it....... back to amazon it goes.
Rob is a wealth of knowledge, but it would be great if the video editor could put together shorter versions of many of these videos. I love watching Rob’s videos, but sometimes I just don’t have the time to watch a 45min video. The channel could offer a 10min video of just the highlights, and then offer more information in the full length video.
Rob, do you have a tendency to want to speak German? I swear to God, watching you work is watching my 'pappy'(grandfather) work. You have to be his reincarnation! Would you do a video on 'blind mortise & tendons' that uses a wedge?(I think they are called 'hiding fox', I'm not sure) Thanks for the videos.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking My grandpa made everyone's furnishings in the family. From bedroom, living room, to the kitchen. The dining room chairs he made sometime before ww2 using this joint were as strong and solid as the day he made them. Even after the house burnt down, the remaining parts of the table and chairs were next to impossible to break up. I remember watching him do it, but didn't pay much attention to the details.(wish I had thing). I've watched a couple videos, but something isn't quite as I remember it being done. Thanks
Steve, about 7 months ago TH-cam stopped sending email notifications of new releases in favor of phone notifications. However, to receive a phone notification you must: be subscribed to out channel, “ rang the bell” to turn notifications on, have the youtube app downloaded to your phone, and have notification turned on for the youtube app on your phone. !!!!
This is not correct. The spur of the marking guage should be set the the center of the pin on the outside. The thickness of the hinge leaf determines the Depth of the mortise on the other side. This called a "tapered gain." Its a better, way, and the correct way. Cut it out with a chisel
Son what the h*!! are you doing ...youd be fired in less then a day with that technique. Sorry but...i mean install hinges then fit the door(on off on off) that's a crazy waste of time...result was great but your still fired....😩......😁
Of course you are right, when we do it for a living that kind of faff takes the food from our children's mouths. The hobbyist is in a whole different ballgame. Hit it first time and you might have to resort to those chores your wife set you!
I am not doing production work. I am showing traditional fine furniture techniques. I wouldn’t do my wife’s kitchen this way, because thats not fine furniture. I would a do build my fine furniture that has cabinet doors this way.
![Fitting flush hinges for cabinets [video #314]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CCSYlJo8J4c/mqdefault.jpg)
Such elementary trainings are lacking in the world. This training is a rare experience. Thank you very much!
Thank goodness it’s just a shop cabinet. Thanks for the video and the meditation.
What I like about Robs videos, is that unlike the others, he does not publish perfectly executed jobs, he shows typical issues we all tend to run into on installing hinges or other projects, and shows us the fixes.
I love the way you use your marking gauge as a router plane.
I’m gonna say it again you are a woodworking wizard, the standing up and planing the styles. Amazing.
Now I understand when you say it difficult to support a family making furniture for a living.
Another wonderful video!
Wonderful. As a DIYer, I am so relieved to see an expert such as you using multiple attempts to fit the door, adjusting the screw holes, and squaring the hinges. Thank you.
What great techniques for making precise cuts and adjustments. Thanks!
I wish I met you when I was a kid and was able to be mentored. I did mostly rough framing and construction for around 15 years and never met or seen anyone with your skill level and knowledge. I do many projects and have to settle sometimes as my tools are mostly homeowner or mid level and my skills aren’t fine tuned for the precise cuts yet for furniture making. Love the videos and the hand tools keep it coming!
Never thought about dropping the thread on wood screws, thanks once again Rob.
Rob doesn't cut corners; never get tired of watching!
what a pleasure to watch someone working so meticulously. Excellent video!!!
I am impressed with your patience and the deliberation of your movements. I would like to see how you mortise a hinge with a chisel as i have no router plane.
The wood relief tip when chiseling the ends of the mortise was so smart and so well presented. Great video!
Beautiful calm work.
that little router is so cuuuuuute!
Noticed your US Army unit patches ! 160th SOAR here!🤙🏼
Really love your attention to detail and drive for perfection! Excellent job Rob!
Wow, another fantastic Rob-school session~! I continue to be amazed by your work and the ability to teach it as you go. I never would have imagined having a router plane in my collection before discovering your channel (years ago), but it is such a great asset. I had the small first and have recently picked up the large. Not sure why I've not thought of using it for hinge mortises, but that's why I'm the student and you're the master~!! Thanks for the great session series~!
(...and I'd love to meet the clowns that had the nerve to give this video a thumbs-down and ask WHY??)
Tremendous detail you have showed us, thank you. This video has great practical educational value.
And big kudos to your tremendous camera person (audio, too).
You weren't kidding about the sticker shock on the hinges, but the 'good ' hinges are beautiful and make a huge difference in both functional and looks. (I had no idea they were available, thanks much for pointing out!) As usual your clear and precise presentation is a joy to watch (and a great, fun challenge for me to replicate...) Thanks a bunch for another master lesson!
10:54 - A tear in the matrix! :)
Another great video, thanks Rob and the team.
Yes Luther was too lazy to edit it out!
I'm starting to learn the difficulty of balancing quality and time. A craftsperson always has the desire to get things as close to perfect as possible, but as they say, time is money. Thank you for sharing the video.
Thx. I will try fixing mine tomorrow.
What's amazing to me is that you can buy (by your own admission) quality hinges and still need to square them, deburr the back sides of the screw holes and enlarge the countersink for the heads. Personally, if I needed to go through that much trouble I would have spent the time sourcing hinges that were the size I wanted rather than using what was on hand. This aside, a fine tutorial. Thanks.
As alway, great educational video, Rob. And as always there’s some point where I realize how I half ass projects just to get them done.
Great video! Showing the two methods was great to see. Think you.
Nice work, , very exacting.
VMAQ-2 PLAYBOYS!! Semper Fi!! 🇺🇸 I was in the squadron '82 - '86
Great tips, thanks
Great presentation and fantastic close-up shuts.👍❤
Attention to detail is very impressive. Nevertheless your last phrase sums it all up!
Great job Rob, a technic I like to use after breaking off many brass screws even with a pilot hole especially in hardwoods, is to first cut the threads with a steel screw and use them during the fit up and then replace them with brass screws and only use them once.
Me too!
Amazing!! Machines won't be able to do that precision. Thank you for giving us the opportunity to watch and learn how it's done correctly.
I like your skill... Is amazing? 👍👍 good job...
Rob, LN has a depth stop for the small router plane that works great.
Rob please tell me where I can get so magnifying glasses like the one you use in this video.
Rob, some years ago I came across some fine cabinet makers in Yorkshire here in the UK. They had replicated the projecting profile of the barrel (knuckle) of the cabinet door hinges with an identical bead along the edge woodwork, it looked fantastic. I don't know how they did it given the pivot point is neither in the door nor frame, didn't have a chance to ask them or take any pictures - a little like your hidden box hinge, it's one of those things I've aspired to make.
I noticed your reveal in one area was 1/256" larger than the rest. I think you need some x300 magnification goggles. 😉
Good work, I learn a lot from you.
It looks like that fit will keep your PPE dust free!
Do you ever make allowance for paint thickness?
Can you give us a hint about who makes those hinges and/or where we might find them?
Hi Rob. Today I got the video 55 seconds after being released. Uawww. This topic is great. Thanks 🙏🏼
Thanks so much for this, super helpful! One question from a beginner. Do I need a marking gauge, or can I just make a pencil line across the long side of the hinge and just chisel down inside that line? Or does that increase the level of difficulty too much? Thanks!
Funny I have a push drill from before there were cordless drills . It’s in my tool box some where . I’ll have to dig it back out.
Old school baby yah. I’m glad I still have it . Missing a few bits though .
If you buy drawn brass butt hinges the countersink should match traditional countersink slot head brass screws. The screw head should be recessed a little. It is best to use same size steel screws first if hardwood and second fit with the brass. This minimises the likelihood of the brass screws shearing or the screwdriver slipping from the slot. Set the hinges so that the radius of the fulcrum only protrudes, so set the marking gauge to the leaf width plus the radius. You may need to chamfer the edge. Lining up the screw head slots is usual.
Where did you source the hinges? I can’t find nice hinges like that
Which push drill do you recommend Rob?
With setting the router plane to finish depth, have you considered placing both hinges on the bench and sit the router plane on top, one hinge at each end and drop the blade till it reaches your bench.
Do you always set your hinges flush, or do you leave them a little high so you can trim later?
Will you be adding a door stop inside the frame? Brilliant idea to squaring the hinge
I go for flush hinges, sometimes I have to set them below flush to minimize the hing gap. Yes i will add a stop
Have you considered using a mortise plane?
Thanks Rob
Hi Rob, where do you recommend getting a router plane ?
Thanks
Nice fit Rob. A cabinet fit only for your shop.
At min 17:50 where do you buy that little router plane that scrapes out the wood?
Where do you source your hinges from
Were the screws you used supplied by the hinge manufacturer? The hinge didn't seem to be made for the modern screw with the thick head. I rue the day the slotted head wood screw with the sharp edge at the head chamfer and the proper thread design for wood met its demise!
The hinge you used although being premium grade and probably quite expensive was really inferior considering all the work required to bring it into specification!
Keep up the good work, JIM
Great catch, you are correct i was not using the screws that came with the hinge as I didn’t like them which is why they didn’t fit perfectly
I cant believe you used Robertson screws!!!
They look like HELL, in fine furniture.
(I know, it's not fine furniture)
As always I learned something new, in this case the use of a rebate plane to cut hinge recesses. One point however in the UK solid hinges such as you were fitting have an odd number of knuckles on each leaf. I would always put the larger number of knuckles on the cabinet e.g for a 5 knuckle hinge 3 on the carcase and 2 on the door. Any comment?
Just noticed my proof reading error, predicative text error.Rebate plane should of course have read router plane. To expand a little on the orientation of odd numbered hinge knuckles comment. On the door Rob was hinging the orientation of the knuckles issue is simply an aesthetic issue. However on a larger heavier door having the larger number of knuckles on the frame contributes to the effectiveness, strength of the hinges. Certainly having both hinges orientated the same way is for aesthetic reasons.
Yes. You hang the door to the frame or whatever. The door gets the smaller number of knuckles.
thanks
Would you use an version of the Cosman wood hinge on such a cabinet?
Hi Rob, with the clearance being so tight, aren't you concerned of the wood swelling and affecting the fit?
I am building in the most humid time of year, so the wood will only shrink from where it is now
Hi Rob, did you check the leaves for parallel edges before squaring up?
Great lesson!! A question: How do you account for the seasonal expansion and contraction of the wood in the rails and stiles with such precise fitting?
There is none..... it may rub sometimes. Cabinets or drawers with such tight tolerances will have to be adjusted in later years when the wood settles 😁
I am building in the most humid time of year for my area. I expect the wood to only shrink from where it is now
them expensive hinges needed a bit done to them. Did you get ripped off? Great vid rob cheers.
Lets see you do a cupboard with euro hinges - Blum or Hafele :-)
Is there a formula for how much weight per hinge? I'm thinking of the Studley chest and of how the hingers support the weight.
Rob, why wouldn't you do a whole kitchen like that? (referring to the last remark made by Rob) What would you do differently when making kitchen cabinets?
It would take forever that's all 🤣
Jigs and templates for a router can speed things up considerably. On the other hand, there are those who find the manual process cathartic and don't mind how long it takes. The cash saved on hiring a tradesman, covers their wives' therapy.
@@gav2759 Hahahahah love it
Having such close tolerances increases the potential for seasonal jamming. Which then leads to seasonal hounding from the wife.
I would do Euro hinges that have lots of adjustability and do overlay doors. I would only do this method on my fine furniture pieces
Better way to remove the burr on the drilled holes is to take a drill bit and wrap the end with duct tape and then twist it with your fingers to make a small countersink. This is one of the things I learned 30 years ago working in a machine shop.
Interesting! Could you explain more please? Not sure I'm getting it
@@CabinetFramingUK Basically you wrap the end that you would normally chuck with tape masking tape probably being better than duct tape and then use the drill bit to countersink the hole very slightly by rotating the drill with your fingers . this will work for soft metals such as brass and aluminum . for steels you would use a handle in place of the tape think a dowel with a hole in it the sale size as the drill . Of course if you were Mr. Cosman you could just use your bit brace with a suitable size drill and just turn the handle 2or 3 times . P.S. that wasn't snark it was just another idea I had . After all not everybody has a bit brace and a set of Jennings pattern bits. I hope this answers any body's questions as to what I was describing.
How many hours you estimate your time for this box without filming?
Can someone help me?
I am making a cabinet and one of the doors doesn’t close all the way,
I’m using butt hinges and
Not sure how to remedy
Problem.
Why didn't you place the door with the hinged installed into the cabinet on a slight angle to mark the location of the hinge on the cabinet?
JIM
It appears that the stiles are about 2 1/2 to 3 inches wide, which makes a total of about 5 to 6 inches of door width subject to seasonal expansion. Is this an issue with the tight fit that you created between the door and the cabinet?
You are correct, however, I am building these doors at the most humid time of year where I live, so the wood will likely only shrink from where it is now so I can get away with a very tight fit. If I was making this in Dec or Jan when it dry where I live then I would have to go with a larger gap or accept refitting the door in summer
In your previous video after fitting the door to the hanging side and the bottom of the cabinet , you could have planed a joint on the RH stile and top rail the thickness of a steel rule. That would have giving you a 1/32" joint all round after cutting the hinges. That is the gap between the two hinge leafs when closed.
Try Deltana ball-tipped cabinet hinge made in China. A beautiful hinge at a good price from DK Hardware. I think you'll be pleased.
Are you former Special Forces? I just noticed that patch you have on your wall (I'm guessing its yours?...)
Not me, belongs to one of the many Vets that have gone through our Purple Heart Project
god im so frustrated.... was all excited about getting the trend diamond stone, .... and there is a 2-1/2 thousandths dish in the 1000 grit side of it....... back to amazon it goes.
"Imagine doing a whole kitchen like that...NO..." LOL
Thats how they use to do it
Rob is a wealth of knowledge, but it would be great if the video editor could put together shorter versions of many of these videos. I love watching Rob’s videos, but sometimes I just don’t have the time to watch a 45min video. The channel could offer a 10min video of just the highlights, and then offer more information in the full length video.
Tight fitting doors will keep the spiders out.
COPPA would come after you for saying "whatever" at the start. But anyway i bet this will help for my DT project
You call it a marking guage, but its a CUTTING guage.
Remember: knife blade for cutting.
This is everything else but definitely not for beginners 😅
Rob, do you have a tendency to want to speak German? I swear to God, watching you work is watching my 'pappy'(grandfather) work. You have to be his reincarnation! Would you do a video on 'blind mortise & tendons' that uses a wedge?(I think they are called 'hiding fox', I'm not sure) Thanks for the videos.
I dont use them. I like showing off my joinery not hiding it.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking My grandpa made everyone's furnishings in the family. From bedroom, living room, to the kitchen. The dining room chairs he made sometime before ww2 using this joint were as strong and solid as the day he made them. Even after the house burnt down, the remaining parts of the table and chairs were next to impossible to break up. I remember watching him do it, but didn't pay much attention to the details.(wish I had thing). I've watched a couple videos, but something isn't quite as I remember it being done. Thanks
TH-cam doesn't send notifications of new video releases!!!! Am I the only victim???
Stavros
Steve, about 7 months ago TH-cam stopped sending email notifications of new releases in favor of phone notifications. However, to receive a phone notification you must: be subscribed to out channel, “ rang the bell” to turn notifications on, have the youtube app downloaded to your phone, and have notification turned on for the youtube app on your phone. !!!!
Nightmare - should have made the cupboard to fit the door.
How about showing us some of the tricks to hide when you mess up
should have waited that extra 30 seconds!
Thanks for not being yet another hidden hinge video
"Imagine doing a whole kitchen like that? ....no."
😂
This is not correct.
The spur of the marking guage should be set the the center of the pin on the outside.
The thickness of the hinge leaf determines the Depth of the mortise on the other side.
This called a "tapered gain."
Its a better, way, and the correct way.
Cut it out with a chisel
It's so easy to spoil a good job by messing up on the hinges, not anymore!
Hinges are-like dovetails, they show the quality of your workmanship
I have surgical scars that are cut less precisely than you mortise and tenons
Rob its a CUTTING GUAGE!!!!
Wtf dude??
Why don't YOU of all people call a tool by the correct name?
Wtf dude..'Guage' is spelled Gauge..Why don't YOU of all people spell a tool by the correct name?
This is not for beginners. A beginnet does not have all tools and equipment you use in this job.
Mork how do you know that? Would a beginner at golf head out on the course with a putter and a driver? Probably not.
Son what the h*!! are you doing ...youd be fired in less then a day with that technique. Sorry but...i mean install hinges then fit the door(on off on off) that's a crazy waste of time...result was great but your still fired....😩......😁
Of course you are right, when we do it for a living that kind of faff takes the food from our children's mouths. The hobbyist is in a whole different ballgame. Hit it first time and you might have to resort to those chores your wife set you!
Right on! In days of yore they did it that way because that was the only way known to them.
JIM
I am not doing production work. I am showing traditional fine furniture techniques. I wouldn’t do my wife’s kitchen this way, because thats not fine furniture. I would a do build my fine furniture that has cabinet doors this way.