Great video man! Watched this before performing my own repair. You covered everything I needed to know. Driver side took about 2 hours (taking my time) Passenger side should take about 1hr. My stock bushing looked like it was in good condition, but noticed it was "sticky" to the touch, potentially causing drag while moving. New bushing, and lithium grease (spray and 'solid') worked excellent. No issues, very glad I did this, it was a much needed repair. Thank you! Shaved about 2 seconds off my window going from up, down, and back up.
Hey Don, I'm so glad to hear that my video helped you out. It wasn't a difficult job, but it's always good to have a guide to lead the way to help speed things up. :)
Excellent video! I need to replace the OE window rollers I installed 10 years ago. Back then, I bought a $6 multi-caliber rifle bore brush kit to clean out the channels the first time- the car had never been garaged - the tracks had lots of corrosion but came out spotless in just a few minutes.
Nice vid. It's common for a clip to break right where you heard the creaking and it let's a cable snag and bind on the window regulator. A ziptie fixed me right up.
Good video! If you warm the vapor barrier with a heat gun or a radiant heater - even in the summer - it makes removal much easier, especially in the winter when the adhesive gets hard. A .22 caliber rifle bore brush and some WD40 does a really good job cleaning out the tracks. I quit using silicone spray - it tends to gum up. Spray lithium grease does a great job in the door edge track and the roller track.
I have exactly this problem: Window goes down minimal and stops. So I will try your way first. May be this will work fir me too. Thanks a lot and I hope to see more of your vids 😎👍
We all have this problem! I think it'll be worth a bit of extra time removing and thoroughly cleaning the tracks though before lubing it up again. Good to see you can adjust the height against the seal. I think I'll do that.
Cool, glad you enjoyed it. Yeah if your windows are slow like mine, it's an easy and affordable job. If I didn't film it, I could have done each window in about 15-20 minutes. I thought it was going to be more difficult, but it turned out to be pretty easy.
Mine was a cable. It broke free from its clip inside the door and catching the window. Ziptied the cable back to the door and was able to roll the window all the way down. :)
Thanks for the tip! I did spray it down with Silicone WD40, but next time I'm in there and have more time, I'll take the whole regulator assembly out to clean it really good and lube it back up.
This made the biggest difference on my manual windows. Regreased the tracks, and it was only slightly better. WD40'd the cables and I could instantly feel the difference. I didn't change the bushing to delrin though, I might do that too
@@Sarrus25 Hey thanks for watching. So yeah, regular WD40 would not be advised. If you watch the video at 3:05 , you'll see that I'm using silicone lubricant spray. The formula is a bit different than the standard spray. Again, I'm primarily using white lithium grease for the track, and then I'm spraying the silicone lubricant WD40 to reach the places that I can't get to with the grease.
HOLY COW, $22 for a couple small pieces of plastic? I took my doors apart and noticed missing bushings although the windows work fine. They worked better after I lubed the cables. Was going to replace these just to be thorough but geez. Someone is making a killing. I may just go match up these missing bushings myself.
William Mchugh my car is my baby, so I don’t mind spending a little extra on it. I do realize that this isn’t the case for everyone, so here’s a link to another TH-camr using cheap nylon washers. th-cam.com/video/Y5KY8wNl71U/w-d-xo.html
@@BecauseMiata Thanks. I too am a tightfisted b*****d, so thanks for the link! Must be my Scots ancestors ... The other thing I need to do is something about the black trim pieces outside along the top of the door. Mine are getting seriously crusty. They seem to be metal with a plastic/vinyl covering and they cost a fortune! Any ideas?
Robin Forrest if the rubber and plastic are dry rotted, they’ll need to be replaced. OEM is expensive. IL Motorsports makes a set for less money, but still expensive. Moss sells them. Maybe try some detailing products (like armor all) first to add moisture back into them.
@@BecauseMiata The metal core seems to be rusted. So I'll have to replace them with something. I'm keeping an eye out for a similar black plastic strip the same thickness and width that I could adapt. Or I guess I could try to find a scrap car and take them off that. The problem is there are a lot less of them here in France than in the UK or US, so finding someone close by with a scrap NA or NB is no easy task...
Thank you so much! Heatmiser is definitely an influence. I had a chance to meet Elliott after a show once...super nice guy. I was devastated when he left us all.
I have a type of window switch on my Auto MK1 Eunos that you can't get into to clean the contacts :( Unlike the type of switches I've seen on the videos. I wrecked mine by trying to get inside and had to buy second hand replacement. There's deffo two types used on the mk1.
I am pretty sure that this is the problem with my NA. The window does not lower completely and always sits crooked in the rails. It slopes down towards the back. And it's very stiff. I've tried everything to adjust the rails, but it's always crooked The bearings are there, but possibly deformed and this causes it to be crooked. I'll order the bearings and replace them. I'm curious but that's the last thing I can think of
I see this video is a few years old. Are you still replying to comments? If you still have this car, 'Im wondering if this repair lasted? My daughters cable snapped so we are going to replace it (going to try to skip the cost of replacing the whole regulator!)
Does your other door have one? You may be better off removing one from the other door to take measurements and finding a compatible one online. It's called a Window Track Guide Regulator Roller. Amazon sells them by a brand called Dorman, but I'm not sure what the size is. They're pretty universal, so if you take measurements from your other door, you may be able to match it up.
You can buy new ones from the Mazda dealer for between $10-$15 per side...or you can make your own out of a clear vinyl dropcloth or thin shower curtain liner. You can stick it on with Goop or double-sided tape. You can leave it off, but depending on your climate where you live, you could start to get mildew or mold on the inside of your door cards. If you live in the desert it shouldn't be a big deal.
Ah that is interesting. Does the passenger side have many holes in the plastic? Must have been some pretty heavy rains to have caused that to occur. I've seen Mold / Mildew removing spray at Lowes or Home Depot that you could spray on the back of the door cards to help protect from further damage. I tend to play it safe, so if it were my car, I would add the plastic on the driver's side...but I'm pretty OCD. If you're fine with how it is, just leave it alone. Of course this only really matters if this is your daily driver / street car. If this is a racecar / track car, it is pretty common to leave it off. Most don't even have the door cards.
I was able to wiggle mine enough to make it go down. If yours is super stuck, you may need to remove the glass and the track to see what is blocking it from going down. Check the angle of the tracks and also make sure they aren't bent.
Honda Shin-Etsu grease is the best stuff for window grease. Nothing else compares.
Yeah I've heard this stuff is great. I'll have to pick some up for sure! Thanks!
@@BecauseMiata ; Find here... www.amazon.com/dp/B00GD49GTS/?coliid=I1ZL67OTKBBUW7&colid=1Y6FVHFMKBDS4&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Great video man! Watched this before performing my own repair. You covered everything I needed to know. Driver side took about 2 hours (taking my time) Passenger side should take about 1hr. My stock bushing looked like it was in good condition, but noticed it was "sticky" to the touch, potentially causing drag while moving. New bushing, and lithium grease (spray and 'solid') worked excellent. No issues, very glad I did this, it was a much needed repair. Thank you! Shaved about 2 seconds off my window going from up, down, and back up.
Hey Don, I'm so glad to hear that my video helped you out. It wasn't a difficult job, but it's always good to have a guide to lead the way to help speed things up. :)
Excellent video! I need to replace the OE window rollers I installed 10 years ago. Back then, I bought a $6 multi-caliber rifle bore brush kit to clean out the channels the first time- the car had never been garaged - the tracks had lots of corrosion but came out spotless in just a few minutes.
Great idea - I was just thinking they don't make pipe cleaners long enough...rifle cleaner will do it!
Nice vid. It's common for a clip to break right where you heard the creaking and it let's a cable snag and bind on the window regulator. A ziptie fixed me right up.
Good video! If you warm the vapor barrier with a heat gun or a radiant heater - even in the summer - it makes removal much easier, especially in the winter when the adhesive gets hard. A .22 caliber rifle bore brush and some WD40 does a really good job cleaning out the tracks. I quit using silicone spray - it tends to gum up. Spray lithium grease does a great job in the door edge track and the roller track.
Very good, clear video that will help me fix my slow windows. Thank you.
I just used old skool REAL grease all the way down the tracks with a really long screwdriver!!
Old school tech! Luv it
I have exactly this problem: Window goes down minimal and stops. So I will try your way first. May be this will work fir me too. Thanks a lot and I hope to see more of your vids 😎👍
Great vid! Been looking for this for awhile. We have an NB with manual windows but I think this gave me enough info to give it a go!
We all have this problem!
I think it'll be worth a bit of extra time removing and thoroughly cleaning the tracks though before lubing it up again. Good to see you can adjust the height against the seal. I think I'll do that.
Thanks man, im gonna look at my sticking passenger window this weekend! Very detailed video, nice👍🏻
I hope it helps you out! Thanks again for watching.
Awesome video, very interesting to watch! I really need to do this to my miata as well.. 😅
Cool, glad you enjoyed it. Yeah if your windows are slow like mine, it's an easy and affordable job. If I didn't film it, I could have done each window in about 15-20 minutes. I thought it was going to be more difficult, but it turned out to be pretty easy.
Really good explanation and very detailed!! Thank you.
Ah man thanks for watching...I really appreciate it. Hopefully the video helps you out someday.
Mine was a cable. It broke free from its clip inside the door and catching the window. Ziptied the cable back to the door and was able to roll the window all the way down. :)
Lube the window regulator cable/cord and it will move faster.
Thanks for the tip! I did spray it down with Silicone WD40, but next time I'm in there and have more time, I'll take the whole regulator assembly out to clean it really good and lube it back up.
This made the biggest difference on my manual windows. Regreased the tracks, and it was only slightly better. WD40'd the cables and I could instantly feel the difference. I didn't change the bushing to delrin though, I might do that too
@@BecauseMiata WD40 is a water displacement (WD) solution, so it does not work very well as a lubricant
@@Sarrus25 Hey thanks for watching. So yeah, regular WD40 would not be advised. If you watch the video at 3:05 , you'll see that I'm using silicone lubricant spray. The formula is a bit different than the standard spray. Again, I'm primarily using white lithium grease for the track, and then I'm spraying the silicone lubricant WD40 to reach the places that I can't get to with the grease.
HOLY COW, $22 for a couple small pieces of plastic? I took my doors apart and noticed missing bushings although the windows work fine. They worked better after I lubed the cables. Was going to replace these just to be thorough but geez. Someone is making a killing. I may just go match up these missing bushings myself.
William Mchugh my car is my baby, so I don’t mind spending a little extra on it. I do realize that this isn’t the case for everyone, so here’s a link to another TH-camr using cheap nylon washers. th-cam.com/video/Y5KY8wNl71U/w-d-xo.html
@@BecauseMiata
Thanks. I too am a tightfisted b*****d, so thanks for the link! Must be my Scots ancestors ...
The other thing I need to do is something about the black trim pieces outside along the top of the door. Mine are getting seriously crusty. They seem to be metal with a plastic/vinyl covering and they cost a fortune! Any ideas?
Robin Forrest if the rubber and plastic are dry rotted, they’ll need to be replaced. OEM is expensive. IL Motorsports makes a set for less money, but still expensive. Moss sells them. Maybe try some detailing products (like armor all) first to add moisture back into them.
@@BecauseMiata
The metal core seems to be rusted. So I'll have to replace them with something. I'm keeping an eye out for a similar black plastic strip the same thickness and width that I could adapt. Or I guess I could try to find a scrap car and take them off that. The problem is there are a lot less of them here in France than in the UK or US, so finding someone close by with a scrap NA or NB is no easy task...
Very helpful video. Also I like the song. Reminds me a bit of heatmiser, or older Elliott Smith.
Thank you so much! Heatmiser is definitely an influence. I had a chance to meet Elliott after a show once...super nice guy. I was devastated when he left us all.
Cool video, verry detailed!
LocoRocoNL I hope you found it useful. Thanks for watching!
Aaand another thing people miss is clean the window switches!
Very good advice. Thank you!
I have a type of window switch on my Auto MK1 Eunos that you can't get into to clean the contacts :( Unlike the type of switches I've seen on the videos. I wrecked mine by trying to get inside and had to buy second hand replacement. There's deffo two types used on the mk1.
I am pretty sure that this is the problem with my NA.
The window does not lower completely and always sits crooked in the rails.
It slopes down towards the back.
And it's very stiff.
I've tried everything to adjust the rails, but it's always crooked
The bearings are there, but possibly deformed and this causes it to be crooked.
I'll order the bearings and replace them. I'm curious but that's the last thing I can think of
I see this video is a few years old. Are you still replying to comments? If you still have this car, 'Im wondering if this repair lasted? My daughters cable snapped so we are going to replace it (going to try to skip the cost of replacing the whole regulator!)
Yes, still working fine. I recommend it. 👍
Right on 7:37 your showing the regulator bushing, my miata doesn't have that, and i cant find it anywhere, you can help me?
Does your other door have one? You may be better off removing one from the other door to take measurements and finding a compatible one online. It's called a Window Track Guide Regulator Roller. Amazon sells them by a brand called Dorman, but I'm not sure what the size is. They're pretty universal, so if you take measurements from your other door, you may be able to match it up.
Great video!
welp, my miata's previous owners must have decided that the vapor seal was dead weight...
You can buy new ones from the Mazda dealer for between $10-$15 per side...or you can make your own out of a clear vinyl dropcloth or thin shower curtain liner. You can stick it on with Goop or double-sided tape. You can leave it off, but depending on your climate where you live, you could start to get mildew or mold on the inside of your door cards. If you live in the desert it shouldn't be a big deal.
Well, interestingly, driver door had it removed and passenger door had it on, but both had the same mildew marks
I live in pretty humid mountains
Ah that is interesting. Does the passenger side have many holes in the plastic? Must have been some pretty heavy rains to have caused that to occur. I've seen Mold / Mildew removing spray at Lowes or Home Depot that you could spray on the back of the door cards to help protect from further damage. I tend to play it safe, so if it were my car, I would add the plastic on the driver's side...but I'm pretty OCD. If you're fine with how it is, just leave it alone. Of course this only really matters if this is your daily driver / street car. If this is a racecar / track car, it is pretty common to leave it off. Most don't even have the door cards.
U can buy any vapour seal on ebay.all the same
16:08 for the washer order
How did you manage to push down the window that got totally stuck? I tried wiggling and use force to push it down but it won't move a bit.
I was able to wiggle mine enough to make it go down. If yours is super stuck, you may need to remove the glass and the track to see what is blocking it from going down. Check the angle of the tracks and also make sure they aren't bent.
Is there only one on each side?
clean ya window power switches
Is this sometimes all that is needed? Mine are slow and get stuck.
@@flumpaustin1994 clean em.. lube everything.NOT WD40! Lube inside the cables and grease.the runners..then silicone all rubbers
And get new window channel rubbers.. 15 min job to replace
Love the intro