Top 5 Dumbest Building Products
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.ค. 2024
- In this video I'll show you what I consider 5 Dumb Building Products. These have bugged me for years and its time to call them out!
When you are done watch this: "Base Wall Flashing Before Brick or Stone" • Flashing before Brick ...
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As a plumber from Canada, must be nice to be able to run water lines in an outside wall
Cant here in conn either
We don't even do that in Illinois
Work for 2 years in canada and, coming from a country you can run plumbing on an outside wall, kept forgetting that. Hahaha
I live in tennessee and its even a huge no no here.
@@bjordhaaland9649 I see water lines in outside walls all the time in the greater Nashville area.
The "flashing " should be installed over the sheeting and under the housewrap. We use a 12" strip of plastic instead of paper. It also is designed to be placed inbetweenst the brick layers at the base of the weep holes to allow moisture out of the 1" air space between the brick and the wall. It is not designed to stop water from going under the wall as mentioned. The house wrap shown is marketed as a vapor barrier and or wind stop designed to do exactly what it says. They make better such as Tyvek or Hardie wrap but both are still going to get holes in them with the addition of brick wall ties. The thermo-ply wall sheeting has been used for years here in FL and quite sturdy when installed properly. However, not the best choice in this climate. It gets wet ,holds moisture, makes fungi, and attracts termites. It's a termite buffet since it is primarily cellulose. The water heater box can be sealed with silicone or window tape or both. DV FP can be fixed with high temp sealant. It is also a pipe inside a pipe for the vent.I do believe there are better products on the market to build a better house. I also believe that you have jumped the gun on the things you have shown as most items are most likely not in the completely installed phase.
for the fireplace vent they make a caulking that is High temp. to seal those types of leaks. It gets the job done and will take the heat. Great video.
@6:10 Furnace Cement is made specifically for fireplace vent applications. It also has a higher temperature rating than high temp silicone.
Matt, after some research, my own experience, and my trusty brother in-law (over 40 years building experience), I would only agree with 3 of the 5. And judging from the comments since the first time I watched this video, some of the comments posted would agree. Because of the areas where you have built homes, it may be the amount of experience with direct vent fire places or woven wrap. I also believe that the use of many materials are not suitable for certain areas. I have worked with home builders on the central eastern shore and builders up in the Appalachian Mountains and what a difference with materials. Of all of the videos of yours I have viewed, this is the only one I have commented on with any negativity. Many of the tips you have posted I have applied with success. I have purchased products and avoided purchasing other products based on some of your posts and product reviews. It has kept me out of a lot of trouble. Thank you! Keep up the great work.
Hi, I have a direct vent gas fire place which works really well in Ontario, Canada. Winter temps down to minus 30 C. The exhaust goes out via the INNER pipe, The incoming air through the outer casing so it stays relatively cool and can be well insulated. Quick to heat , automatic thermostat, runs a year on 2 AA batteries, no other power. 27000 Btu's.
Running the exhaust in a pipe inside the intake is done for a couple of reasons. 1. Needs only a single hole through the wall so there's less to seal, and no need for a heat resistant seal. 2. Improves efficiency by pre-heating the intake air somewhat. The longer the pipe run, the more heat transfers from the exhaust. A concentric pipe isn't needed for 95% or higher efficiency gas furnaces. Their exhaust is so cool they use PVC pipe. The fireplace in the video has its exhaust up through and out of a small space that will be sealed off from the room. Thus it's not at all like an open window.
Yep. They work really, really well when the installer knows how to install them.
I remember years ago adding a wood burning stove to my previous house. I used double wall class a vent pipe. I was able to seal all the openings with a calk that was made to take the heat (I forgot the name). The outer wall of the pipe would get warm at best while it was in use.
Hi Richard, what is the brand and model you bought and how long have you had it? I am looking to buy one and your's sounds like one I would be interested in. Thanks!
Good comment.
You can put silicone around the pipes on a furnace. Not the silicone caulk you use on windows. It's a specific high-temp silicone made for that. You can buy it at any home improvement store and it meets code for Class A chimney installs.
Consider - you use a silicone product to seal the oil pan to the engine block. That stuff is rated to 800F+.
I've seen a lot of builds use Fortiflash here in Oregon and as a waterproofer I was always happy to see stucco, brick, or stone exteriors done that way. But they used the fortiflash CORRECTLY in conjunction with tyvek (under it) and it usually transitioned to concrete or up top and over the tyvek in the same fashion (if I remember correctly).
2) its not perforated, its woven. They don't punch it with pinholes, they just weave it from strips. It is not meant to hold water, it is meant to carry water down and away and let vapor out of the wall. It does exactly what it is supposed to do, you are just using it wrong and the test was totally inappropriate for its intended use.
Simon, do you believe that a woven product that doesn't have self healing capability will properly sheathe driving rain? When you are using such a product against the building and there is no rainscreen, with building pressures as they are against the home the self woven product can also withstand minimal if any hydro-static pressure.. and no capillary break.... please kindly excuse my ignorance and educate me on why this is a good strategy in the envelope assembly for a long term solution?
Simon I second what Ranjiv says, and would also like to know your knowledge on the matter.
Ranjiv Jain why is driving rain hitting your house wrap? the house wrap is supposed to move any moisture out of the building so it can dry and not let the materials get moldy or rot. it is not supposed to waterproof the building
@@RanjivJain you should not have driving rain hitting your house wrap. That's why you have siding
Driving rain will NEVER hit the house wrap once the exterior is finished, siding , brick or stucco is what's gonna stop the water, the house wrap is supposed to let the house breathe.
I installed gas fireplaces for years. You can use red high temp silicone around that collar and rock wool insulation. Duh!!
I literally just asked that before I seen your comment. Thank you for confirming my suspicions.
Agree, I also have used automotive sealant and Rockwool insulation.
On that topic actually I wonder why spray foam is used where silicone caulk would do. I totally understand spray form for window cavities but thats about it. I still seal windows with silicone then fill the cavity with spray foam. I don't really use it for anything else.
In The USAF the Jet Mechanics used an orange colored silicone...
I believe it is the silicone that is used for the highest temperature applications
Duh is correct, I have never heard a poorer explanation of installation for a direct vent product. Even the slightest bit of research would have negated his negative submissions.
A direct vent fireplace is no different than a wood burning stove that is direct vented. Easily made air tight and insulated if installed properly.
Matt, if direct vent gas log is a bad idea then what is the difference in the venting of a tankless water heater venting through the roof?
Switch to an electric heat pump water heater.
2 words Smart trim, I can't tell you how many i've seen these beautiful homes with that coated OSB trim.
The trim in my house is coated MDF.
OSB is a fire trap
@@02dag32 OSB = Oriented Sponge Board
It seems the warm, dry and generally forgiving climate of Texas allows builders some latitude in cheapening out their specs and having the defeciencies be unoticable for a few years. In upstate NY the home owner will have the architect & GC on the phone in the first winter.
North Texas AND Austin are as the same as N.Y... The yankees are ALL OVER the place mister. And no matter what.. They'll complain. It's their natural DNA code
Houston is not dry and they still use some of the same materials. Same foil covered cardboard sheathing. They should be shot!
Also in Illinois
Hi Matt, Great show! Question: Is there a good direct exhaust NG fireplace system you do like? Or is it Chimney or nothing? Thanks!
recessed tankless: how do you change the housing when it rusts out?
The flue in a direct vent can be sealed with high-temp caulking and insulated with types of rockwool. Did I miss the "insulating paint" and radiant film in attic spaces?
Can't agree with you on direct vent gas fireplaces. I was in the hearth industry for a long time in northern Minnesota. Horizontal venting does not leak air into the house when installed properly. There are a number of products, including high-heat caulk, that work great at sealing the house and keeping it air tight. Additionally, the stand-off for the pipe is typically less than a foot since the hot exhaust gasses run on the inside pipe, not the outside. You can't can't run a fireplace, gas or wood, that is more energy efficient that DV gas. You can also make them look nice with accessories like screen doors that hide the glass. I do agree that cheap builders boxes, like the one in your clip, are an eyesore.
Lastly, DV gas fireplaces run electricity free and can be placed on a thermostat. I lived in Duluth, MN and was without power for 4 days, but the house was toasty warm the entire time. Average temp that week was about 15 degrees. We actually had neighbors stay with us since their furnaces couldn't run. You really need to do some research before you knock a product that you are unfamiliar with.
I agree 100%.Direct vent or vent free are very efficient.If installed correctly all air gaps are sealed with the correct sealant..👍
I agree with the direct vent. They can be sealed with ease. I don't like ventless simply because they put a ton of moisture into the air. Especially if it's propane. Put one into our shore house and the condensate on the windows and colder outside facing walls was crazy.
I just had a direct vent natural gas fireplace unit installed and the tech put Roxul insulation around the flex pipe. My opening is insulated and sealed with caulc. A must in Canada.
Tim you are exactly right. Apparently Matt's experience with direct vent fireplaces are limited considering he lives in Texas. I've worked for the natural gas utility in St Louis Missouri for more than 35 years and serviced almost every brand manufactured to date. When installed correctly direct vent fireplaces are the only way to go. Matt is correct when he stated to avoid vent free fireplaces. Plus I'm a little confused what type of fireplace Matt would install . Are you saying not to install a fireplace at all?. I was without electric for 24 hours and my direct vent fireplace kept my house at a toasty 64 degrees when the high temperature in my neighborhood was at 24 degrees for the day and a low of 5 degrees at night.
Have to agree with you Tim.
You should do a video of what to ask a home building company when your ready for a new house. Many folks like myself have no clue what is TOP choice or TRASH rip off. I thought of having a new Wayne Home built down the road, so this is why I am watching all sorts of home building videos, so Thanks for all the info! Good Stuff
It is like buying anything. Every detail must be in writing or you get short changed by someone.
Wait! I have a direct vent kerosene heater in my house. The vent is a two way system, where the outside of the pipe draws cold air in for combustion and the inside forcibly exhausts the post combustion gases. The outside pipe never gets more than warm to the touch, and can have insulation and wood directly against it. Don't the gas units work the same way?
Great video. It is getting to the point where if you can't go full custom build, do a remodel of an older home instead. Tract/spec houses are thrown together with whatever is the cheapest stuff they can get away with. Lots of these tract/spec houses are going to need major and expensive fixes in 10 years or less.
AJourneyOfYourSoul You’d be fortunate if the home outlasted the mortgage
No, not all spec homes are done cheaply. I know, because I have built very high quality specs in my time, not going cheap just for a bottom line result.
Agree. Dixon will be the exception, not the rule lol. I am in New Orleans and all the reconstruction I saw after Hurricane Katrina was fast and cheap. The only true quality houses I saw were the one where the home owner did not rush the job, vetted the contractors/subs and timeframe was well over a year. Texas home builders seem to have the worst reputation around here.
Well, for me and my wife, the housing market crashed and the pregnancy test said time was not on our side. We purchased a good quality home that was built in 1972 instead of building new. The insulation and HVAC are lacking, but all other aspects of the house were sound. In about 10 years I will have the mortgage paid and will then start replacing the roof, insulation and all mechanical. Many people I know who built new homes after Katrina are already having problems with them; the biggest one being mold due to improper sealing and venting.
Yep. I bought one. My first house. Sold it for a tidy profit too. It was a complete piece of crap and an embarrassment.
For the gas vent pipe you can use flue pipe cement its used all the time were I live to seal around bolier vents
So I’m building a house and it used to come standard with a ventless fireplace, but now they are using a 42in direct vent. So if you say these are a bad idea, what do you recommend? A wood burning fireplace with chimney? What are other alternatives you recommend?
hey Matt... I love that sheathing for use as floor protection... you can lay it over your hardwood floors, tape the seams together.. and reuse it many times on future projects... It sucks for house sheathing though.. just like you said
Matt, I'm with you on most of this stuff, but I'm curious if we could use something like Kaowool or other ceramic insulations designed for kilns and other hot work applications to break that air leak possibility. They should have no problem being against a fireplace vent..
I was thinking about that too. Non flammable and extremely heat resistant. Should work fine.
Gez, just caulk it with RTV.
I have installed 2 ventless blue burn heater in my home for past 18 years and I my whole family love them
what model are they..thanks
The ventless is against fire code in my area
I purchased a house with a gas fireplace, now I know why sometimes I can hear the wind outside loud and sometimes even feel a breeze. Is there anyway I can retrofix one of these with a vent that can close and open when fireplace is on/off? or should I just replace it with something else?
A question on the point on direct vent fires
Could you not seal the collar you mentioned with a product like Firegum that is used for sealing car exhausts in the same way?
It goes on semifluid and sets when heat is applied the 1st time
pinhole wrap is PERFECT for my old-style breathing house! heh
I plan to use that perforated house wrap to wrap mineral wool batts for an itch free installation in the attic rafters :-0)
I'll have a a fully secured 3/4" plywood floor under me (on top of attic joists) so not likely to fall through that. The rafters are at a steep angle (10/12 pitch - 40 degrees) so I may have to tack something to hold them up in place until I can put a thin layer of foam board under them :-0)
HEY! Wait a minute! How did you know my living room was under my attic?
Nah you'd want something that actually blocks water while being super vapor permeable, like Tyvek.
Tankless heater - dollars to donuts, when it comes time to replace it, the new model won't fit in the recess.
Good point, Chip. They'll probably install the new unit on the inside wall and leave the old unit there!
🍩🍩🍩
Like those houses of late 90’s that had the huge cutouts for the massive projection TVs. Oops, how is my new 16:9 ratio HD set going to fit into the old 4:3 hole? Oops, how can I hang my new 4K TV on the wall where this old 16:9 projector TV hole is? It’s big enough to be a closet.
wet bar was my use but there was a lav on the other side of the wall so water, drain and a vent, were just right there.
so don't build a recess, flush mount it to the damn wall.
existing fireplaces ,what can you do with them I sealed my flew up from the inside with roxal rock wool to keep cold from coming down the chimney when not in use .I was considering having it turned into a propane one for when power goes out .Which is not often here .I was concerned about gas fumes with the sealed one .Plus do they even give off heat if you do not have room for a blower .The wood fireplace came with some type of blower .This is a modular house built in 2004 2x6 stud walls and in the southside of VA .I had a new lennox heat pump put in 2014 16 seer dual compressor but when it gets down in temperature the reserve heat has to come on and that can run my electric bill up .No other services here besides electric and adding a propane tank .
@MattRisinger on #6 I was looking at the prospect of adding a wood cook stove with a hot water reservoir for backup heating and cooking.
If this was in your building plan how would you go about installing it?
Use triple wall stainless pipe for Chimney, and keep wood at least 2 inch away, wood stove heat is awesome.
Please do more research, regarding Fireplaces - Selkirk offers an insulation for use with their Cathedral Box, Attic Shields, and Wall Thimbles. The insulation helps to keep heat in vent/chimney, and reduces air infiltration into the home.
The reason the house wrap has holes is to allow moisture to pass through in cold climates. When houses started getting built (tight) there were a ton of water issues inside due to the house wrap not breathing. A house wrap isn’t meant to keep your insulation dry forever that’s what siding does.
That's right. Matt's not thinking. The moisture for a house in a cold climate is INSIDE the house. Is that different in a hot humid Southern location that not subjected to freezing? I'll let someone else say.
@@DavidJGillCA In Southern California, a basically hot, dry climate where everything dies in the Spring and sprouts green in the Winter, the house-wrap is to allow air-borne moisture to escape the interior of the home. As people sleep at night they exhale an completely unbelievable amount of moisture into the house atmosphere. If the house is wrapped in non-permeable plastic that moisture soaks into the walls and over time the interior of the drywall, etc., becomes moisture-laden or the water pools up at the bottom of all interior walls. We use mostly Stucco in SoCal and the Stucco actually "breathes" rather than be water-proof.
@@choimdachoim9491 Most newer nice homes have a dedicated dehumidifier, as well as heat pump water heaters. They will remove any excess moisture from inside the home. If you have SO much humidity inside that its soaking though the drywall, insulation and framing, and going out the sheathing, you have issues elsewhere.
@@choimdachoim9491 stucco breathes but what about the tar paper under it? for decades now tar paper has been used under stucco.
@@ionstorm66 It's worth checking...people breathe out pints of water vapor each night during sleep and during the day while inside the home. The number is so high that I find it difficult to believe so I won't state it.
Happy holidays Matt. Thanks a lot for all your videos. I’ve devoured many today. A question, I’ve ordered a montigo delray with a flue going straight up 2 story great room, without masonry work. DRL4813NI-2 FULL LOAD: Montigo DelRay 48 - 21,000 BTU NG model equipped with Proflame 2 IPI, reflective glass panels, downlighting, remote control, fan kit, Invisimesh screen. GCA019. Is this system a problematic one ? I’d like to know what you think of this. Thanks in advance for your consideration.
We bought a house with a direct vent fireplace, we like the fireplace but what if anything can we do to fix the issue?
Reading these comments it's clear: everyone is an expert and everyone is an idiot. It's no wonder things can't get done right with so much misinformation going around. Even a professional can't make heads or tails of what choice to make on a product based on some of the discussions here. This is why industry standards are important but they can't really keep up with innovation in the home building arena.
I don't envy you guys doing this for a living.
We live in an era in which FACTS, actual science-based, proven and tested FACTS, are "fake news". And the building trades are full of Trumptards. So, there ya go.
I couldn't agree more lol
I agree with the cardboard sheathing. That's just ridiculous and I've never even heard of it in Canada. Although when it comes to the recessed tankless unit, I know that with all the window flashings and waterproofing details you know so well, you could come up with a great way to seal that unit.
Also we use double wall vents on our fireplaces that can be spray foamed around.
Love all your videos. Watch them over and over. I just finished having a house framing near Nashville and we used Zip panels on all sides & the pink on the roof. Love it but a little pricey by the time was all done. Man that tape is pricey when used properly but air tight. Read for siding now. But what isn't if you want it right these days
Very Good points. Worked in Plumbing Sales as a construction noob. Got in a lot of trouble for trying to sell someone a direct vent gas fireplace....
Ceramic Insulation for the
thru-the-wall vent pipe.
Classified to 1600°C or 2912°F
And R-10 per inch.
It's not just the risk for fire from contact between the metal exhaust and combustibles....it's the risk for deformation of the vent pipe if its heat isn't allowed to dissipate into free air.
Yeah I'm gonna doubt that. The best spray foam is R-7.4 per inch on a good day.
@@hailexiao2770 I think you need to research ceramic fiber blanket.
And, depending on what # density,
you will find it is used for thermal insulation of stoves, fireplaces, pizza ovens, kilns, forges, furnaces.
There are many products available for sealing the flue of a direct vent gas fireplace. If you have a quality fireplace, it will tell you right in the user manual what product to use.
Yes but none of them have agreed to sponsor this channel soooo..... They all suck.
Literally any high temp silicone would work amazing.
I immediately furnace cement would easily do the trick.
No direct vent fireplace and no ventless fireplace what do you recommend? I have a gas insert in my original fireplace. I use a flexible duct that goes out the top of the chimney. Is there something better?
I have never seen a critical video on bad products and i loved it. We non builders don't have the time to research everything that is put in our new home. There's to much to deal with as it is
House wrap is used in the flat position?
Totally- the wrap is orientation specific. I mean cmon man- it’s not meant for horizontal installation.
Can they use rock wool mineral insulation around that direct vent fireplace or is that still too much contact? I always thought it was fireproof and made for fireplace installations.
I must agree with some of the others about venting with double and triple wall pipe. My flue goes up through the ceiling and trusses to the roof and a fake chimney.
All the rest I agree with 100%. As to flashing foundation walls etc, I favor plastic covered mastic which comes by the roll.
I thought the purpose of housewrap was to prevent air infiltration and drafts, but allow moisture to pass through - basically like the GoreTex jacket in the winter.
Goretex stops reasonable amounts of water.
depends on the type of wrap. in the north they want to prevent air and drafts, in the south we want to prevent moisture.
Joshua Powell in the US is there a requirement for clear cavities between the TF and the external facade? Here in the UK where we get a lot of wind driven rain and high exposure I typically see timber frame manufactures have a minimum 50mm clear cavity or have vertical battens (allows water ingress through external facade to flow downwards) with counter battens (hang facade if not using wall ties).
@@Iain31313 It's best practice to have a channel for moisture to exit the external façade. It's not always practice as it's not necessary in some places like the desert that sees 1~2" of precipitation yearly.
@Tony Humbert Not only that, he's using a horizontal test of standing water to a product that is meant for a vertical application. BTW the product is not advertised as "Waterproof".
I love my direct vent gas heater and my tankless water heater. After 5 years I still have no leaks, no maintenance, and tremendously reduced my energy bills.
Yes but those manufacturers wouldn't sponsor the channel, so.........
What is the alternative to the fireplace? Also could that wall thymbol be caulked with red heat proof silicone used in wood stove installs?
Thanks.
DV fireplace is the best option. Dont listen to his bullshit. There is high temperature caulk you can buy to seal it. Cant believe this guy has never heard of it. You only need to take a basic weatherization class to learn about this stuff
I love the fact that you're super opinionated about your craft. I'm the same way when it comes to automotive. Keep it up!
Your not totally knowledgeable about these products ! Stop posting ! The cardboard sheathing does suck though.
Can’t seal a direct gas fireplace vent? Weird, cus my friends company that does installs, which was done on the house I’m building just a few weeks back uses high temp sealant made to withstand way hotter temperatures than a gas flue.
That's because he knows what he's doing. This guy makes videos about work he doesn't do or know anything about.
So what type of replacement products do you recommend for these? Mostly curious about the fireplace, as I am hoping to begin building a home up in Minnesota in the next couple years.
Adam Krause I agree...no vented, no ventless...so then what?
If you want a fireplace for the winter (totally would want one in a northern state), why not just get a proper wood-burning one or a large wood stove?
That would be less likely to be used, especially by my wife as the convenience factor of a gas fire place is way more attractive in my opinion.
Adam Krause the point was Matt didn’t want the envelope air leaks. Wood burner is worse than direct vent gas.
Vented through traditional chimney. Problem is the sidewall venting.
I have a vented gas fireplace but it is vented through the attic roof. Is that better?
How you feel about pex pipeing? I worry about the possibility of exposure to BPA no one talks about poisoning though your water system
I agree with most. Except the direct vent. I have one but it is installed in an old fire place and goes strait up. But i would never use one like that.
I've seen those push flames into a home straight up is way better never go out the side like that with a fireplace the wind will blow a fireball into your house .
Hi temp silicone caulking around flue pipe?
Or what about that fiberglass gasket they use on fireplace doors and glass? A simple fiberglass donut that inserts around the pipe and flange with a retainer ring as part of the assembly? Seems to be a no brainer unless they absolutely require that air gap to minimize heat transfer into the flange?
Simpson's duravent allows you to use high temp silicon on their direct vent piping. keyboard warriors talk out their butts
@@claytondekorne7550, can you show me where your local building code says heatproof material is not allowed to touch the exhaust pipe?
Andy Fer
Thought the same thing bro
@Stephen Roberts Yes, RTV silicone for sealing the vent to the unit and to seal the inner sections of the exhaust and intake vent. It's in the instructions. But we're not talking about the assembly of the vent and unit; we're talking about air sealing between the outer wall of the vent and the pass-through plate, and no sealant is used in test assemblies. All combustion equipment mfgrs have to have the assemblie tested per NFPA standards; none I've air seal the assembly to the structure and do not show in their instructions, and therefore not technically allowed by code. If you're not in a code district, you can do it, sure, but you then assume liability for any fire attributed to the vent. If an inspector let's you do it, fine. He then assumes liability. They often wont because of that. Builders working in code jurisdictions are at the mercy of code inspectors.
Wait, I put in a Kozy high end unit and vented up. Took out the wood burning fire box. If you think they look too fake and cheap, what do u put in? I sacrificed realistic for ease and convenience.
What would you recommend then if you want the gas fireplace in your home?
I used to think more of Matt but his generalization about a whole class of fireplaces is unfortunate. Properly installed a gas direct vent has an inner and outer firestop that can be caulked with high temp. RTV silicone according to most mfrs. The double walled vent pipe is tested to 25 Pascals. A DV does not use room air for combustion but provides great zone heating and a backup zone heat source in the case of a power outage. They are very efficient and often are used to heat one zone of a home for the day instead of the whole house. The net result can be energy savings. Since vented fireplaces are huge energy hogs and ventfree are lung vented I guess the only fireplaces Matt endorses are electric or gelled alcohol. Bad advice Matt. Read an installation manual please. Attend the HPBA show and sit in on some classes.
Ventless fireplaces are definitely not a huge NO-NO. It's safe, efficient and looks great. We love ours. What do you base your opinion on? Your mistaken about this option in fireplaces.
Direct vent are about worthless, I agree with that assessment.
Well, whoops on his part.
@@wadepotter5377 It's the other way around--ventless is worthless, since I don't want to breathe combustion byproducts, and DV is great since it doesn't use interior conditioned air and exhaust it to the outside.
@@wadepotter5377 if you love pumping water vapor into your I guess it's cool
@@wadepotter5377 Ventless fireplaces are 95 % efficient. I do not want to breathe in the other 5 %. Every time I go into a home with a ventless I can smell the fumes.
Cardboard sheathing : ))) You made my day : ) I really hope it is not as widespread as you say.
I've installed it in every major city in Texas and in surrounding states. This was years ago but I know it's still used in track houses built in central Texas. Some codes make you put some metal on your walls as you approach the coast.
In maryland back in the 80s and 90s they built a lot of house's and townhomes out of this crap it still blows my mind
We are going in the wrong direction. Implement concrete construction.
It's not & it's not being used a sheathing. The idiot in the video call the vabor barrier sheathing what a dope.
I've seen the paper sheathing a few times during remodels here in Hawaii. And yes the original builders do use it as sheeting. Studs, cardboard, then lap siding. Some may say that the shear is coming from cross bracing from straps but there were none to be found. Just because it's not used in all areas doesn't mean he's wrong about it being used.
How do you feel about 8” range hood vents? A lot like the direct vent no?
Good video..
Only issue....the direct vent fireplace part...there is caulk you could use for the vent..you said you can't put anything there when, in fact, there is high heat fireplace caulk that could be used.
Good video. I've been saying the same thing for over 20 years about Tyvek and how it's junk, but at the same time, you HAVE to have the holes in it or vapor drive will soak your insulation.
I seen that happen so many times back in Wisconsin. In the winter time, moisture wants to go from hot to cold, and that's why homes are so dry in the winter, because vapor drive has the warm moist air wanting to go through your wall to the colder outside. If you have Tyvek with no holes, all that moisture will condensate on your plastic and sit in your walls and then you have a disaster on your hands. It's like laying a sheet of plastic on your lawn and see how much moisture condensates on it in 10 minutes, but that's the inside of your walls.
It's the same thing with your garage floor in the summer, and why it is soaking wet. The moisture in the air condensates on the cooler garage floor making it wet. I always had to smile and walk away when I hear people say it's moisture coming UP through the floor from the ground. I mean that's like saying my cold beer is coming through the glass bottle when I take it out of the refrigerator and set it on the table.
I've always said Tyvek is like wrapping your home with a furnace filter....it filters out the bugs as the wind blows through it.
Now I spray foam and never worry about vapor drive again. If the warm moist inside air does not know it's cold outside, it has no reason to be attracted to your walls. Plus spray foam actually glues your home together and I read an article many years ago from....I believe Texas A&M, about how spraying foaming increases your homes strength by 20%, and that's a lot when you're talking hurricane force winds.
Anyway, keep up the great work.
You comment makes no sense, you dont put tyvek and insulation together, they shouldn't even be touching each other. Tyvek goes over wood like OSB. And behind that wood is your insulation. And if you used regular waterproof plastic it would do exactly what you described because it would pool water vapor. They are permeable for a reason...
I always thought house wraps were meant to be breathable. The hung plastic on the inside of the house behind the drywall is the leak proof barrier. The breathable outside wrap is designed to let air pass in and out so any accumulated water behind the wrap can evaporate. Am i missing something?
Sounds like you're putting the wrap on the wrong side of the walks.
So what kid of fireplace should you put in?
Yeah, he left that part out.
On the last one about the hot vented fireplace, you can seal it with fireproof caulk. I use it all the time on induction motors on gas packs and exhaust stacks for restaurants. It’s red and rated for heat
BTW - It's great to see so many opinions and suggestions here. NIce to know there's still so many that are interested in the trades. I say, thank you!
kao wool
high temp insulation is GREAT to have around
I despise house wraps of all sorts. I've been using zip panels since they came out.
That last pro tip really helped! Thank you for making this informative video.
Jacob McMahon This video is more misinformation than anything.
Will you link to your videos on your recommendations for each of the other four on your list (the paper wall base being the exception). I’d like to see the fire place, wall sheathing, tankless water method specifically.
My top DUMBEST product is easily insulating paint!! A huge scam that keeps coming back every couple years. I almost had clients insulate their home with this, before they came to me.
There are some insulating paints that actually work - some of them were developed for protecting parts of the space shuttle. It's basically hollow ceramic microspheres suspended in paint. Works really well, I use it in engine bays and bare floors when restoring vintage cars. The temperature difference can be as much as 40 degrees or more. Surfaces that would burn you are now only warm. But this is specific application, I don't think it would do anything on a house....
I believe that does not actually count as insulation it just changes the radiation properties due to emissivity. (I'm not sure that is technically correct, but it is something like that) In terms of insulation for a home with a much lower delta T across the thermal control layer the paint does not actually reduce heat flow. There have been tests run to show that "insulating paint" has no benefit for insulating a home.
You are correct for extremely high temperatures. I have seen it used effectively for lowering the exterior temperature of flue pipes in mechanical rooms. I'm not sure that actually reduces the heat flow like actual insulation would. I guess this might be acting as a radiation barrier.
No I do not mean that, I wish I did. I mean paint that "claims" to act as insulation.
@@ckm-mkc These paints are radiant barriers not insulation. Heat can be transfered in 3 different ways : conduction, convection and radiation. An insulating material slow down conduction heat
transfer while a radiant barrier slow down radiant heat transfers. A radiant barrier alone is totally useless in a house as most heat move through conduction and convection. The only exception would be the roof and your windows if you live in a very sunny climate. This is why green builders focus on improving the insulation (conduction resistance) and air tightness (convection resistance) of their house and not on radiant barriers.
I dont think that list was nearly long enough
Keep it going...
MDF
Yes, I'd like to see Matt's top 100 chitlist products.
@@refusoagaino6824 MDF, when used for the right application, is fine. Center panels for cabinet doors to be painted is one example.
Agreed I was surprised he mentioned he didnt like through wall window AC units. Same reasoning as the water heater. Now those are basically always a retrofit on an old house, but still water will get in.
Is this in the USA?, what building code lets you cardboard instead of ply?
Why not put in a ventless fireplace? I love mine and I use for when no power. What do you suggest instead if ventless fireplace.
Never heard of high temp RTV silicone? They're rated from 500-700 degrees. They also have other sealants rated up to 2000 degrees. It's not difficult or expensive to seal up a direct vent system properly.
My favorite part of this video is all the contractors and professionals in the comments stepping up their "uhm actually" and dropping some fact bombs! XD
My favorite part of this video is all the contractors and professionals in the comments stepping up their "uhm aktchually" and dropping the same BS that results in crappy construction today.
Anything to make an excuse to keep costs low and profits high
Very interesting. So how are fireplaces done in modern homes to prevent air infiltration? Is thre some type of damper that's installed?
On the vireplace vent use a product called RTV it’s good for continuous 400-600 degree exposure and can withstand up to 900 degrees before degrading. Also good for dealing as it is extremely tacky, expands and contracts, along with sticking to most any surface. We use this product on industrial boilers in a power plant. Mostly used for doors and piping gasket but easily withstands the heat.
sorry, you're talking out your rear about direct vent fireplaces. They are great product. They provide an economical power free heat source that can be thermostatically controlled even in a power outage. Just because you've never seen one installed correctly, doesn't mean its a bad product. Stick to your own trade. FYI you can use high temp silicon to seal the termination inside and regular silicon outside. On top of that, standard practice is to use firerated drywall and durarock in the concealed area.
- Stephen the licensed gasfitter
Gas fireplaces are just dumb and waste a load of N. The emissions are awful compared to a HE furnace. Gas fireplaces are for the lazy or incapable of starting a wood fire, which is by definition a "fireplace" not a glass enclosed burner with asbestos glowing on plaster logs.
.... I mean..... that's a special kind of.... I mean.... really?
My house is heated by a wood fireplace, and I definitely like wood fires more, but the people buying million dollar homes where I work dont want to use wood, and like you said, they dont know how, so gas is the way to go since they all seem to love how they look and say they "need" a fireplace.
Ratboy, how well does that HE Furnace work for you when the motherfucking POWER IS OUT, these are for aesthetics and EMERGENCY HEAT, also real nice to be able to turn the fire off and not have to wait hours upon hours for the logs to finish burning.
direct vent gas heaters are great..up here in new england we install them all the time..apartments that had all electric baseboard for example ..not always practical to install furnace and run ductwork.
Thank you for reminding we live in sticks, packed with Styrofoam, wrapped in plastic, and sprayed with plaster.
Truly, home construction hasn't changed much since the stone age. The sticks and rocks we use to keep the waether off us are just prettier now.
I have a question regarding the seal around the vent for the gas fireplace. The literature I find on most direct vent gas fireplaces says the vent pipe temperature can exceed 200 degrees F. Certainly, there has to be way to use something like Imperial Hi-Temp Silicone (will withstand 600 degrees F) or something similar? Says it will bond to both wood and metal, so it would seem to meet the requirements. Am I missing something as to why this or similar product couldn't be used?
I know someone that lives in a multi million dollar mansion that went double over budget and 2 plus years over build deadline and has only been lived in for two years and is constantly having issues all over the house especially with the geothermal set up and I'm constantly finding things that were done wrong and with no care for the customer and longevity of the house. Would love for u to come out and do an episode on the house. Maybe she could build a portfolio and she the builder or inspectors or something lol
Perforated house wrap is for vertical surfaces only. Pooling water on it while flat is not a true representation of performance.
That being said, it is typically marketed and used as an all purpose house wrap when the design is really intended for cavity walls w/ wood structure.
House wrap is intended as an air infiltration barrier, not a water barrier.
and to boot if you watch carefully he moved the cup and wrap within the supposed 4 minute time frame its comical to watch
Home Central It’s not an air infiltration barrier. It’s a bulk water barrier.
Paper should be used for 2 things. Writing ✍️ and wiping 🧻
Isn’t there high heat insulation foam thats orange for that specific installation of outdoor grills and vented fireplaces?
Thank you for your videos. I see your point on 4 of 5. Cannot for the life of me understand why anyone in good conscious build with paper products. Might as well live in a camper. My first house from the 70s I lived in some years back had like a 1/2" thick cardboard style siding. I could have literally punched through the wall. What a mess. There was so much water damage on every edge of those 4x8 sheets.
I disagree with you on house wrap vs zip system. House wrap is not water proof but resistant, and I have had house wrap up by itself for a few months in the spring rain season and as long as it is shedding water it really won't penetrate. I'm not convinced the butted tape of the zip system is a better barrier than lapped house wrap.
Why can't you insulate/calk up to the directvent flue? Isn't it a bidirectional flue with the exhaust in the center and the intake around the outside?
you can seal it to your hearts content, because it's a direct vent (concentric) you can use regular silicon... but most of the time we use high temp red when concealed. he's talking out his rear on this one. this video has me wondering what else this guy says is total bs.
Stephen Roberts I remember reading a manual for one of those vents, they are not rated for direct contact of insulation. Sort of like some of those can lights.
Anthony Hernandez rockwool is non combustible so theoretically you can use it but that will not stop the air from entering the building.
Not if you want live/work where there's a building code. See replies above
@@claytondekorne7550 I install DV fireplaces as a professional in jurisdictions loaded with building codes. The brand I install can have the venting be both sealed and insulated, per manufacturer specification, and has passed hundreds of inspections by dozens of building inspectors who all agreed. You're spreading bad information based on what sounds like limited experience with low quality brands and installers.
Your right about the house wrap. We do a lot of ultralight backpacking and we use small sheets of house wrap folded up in our back pockets to lay on during lunch breaks, door mats for our tents etc. Found out the hard way that tyvek is the only waterproof choice. The lowes brand lasts about 24 hours before it becomes worthless and you start getting wet
flyhound97 who cares?
why is everyone so obsessed with correcting peoples grammar
r/iamverysmart
Whats a matter of opinion? you being an idiot?
How many people does it take to agree with Zoddhand before his opinon becomes fact? Because I agree you're being an idiot. I would also like to ad you are an overly critical a** hole.
lol it's ok just standing up for zodd cause you're a douche. You can keep telling yourself that all the mean things pepole say to you are just their opinons, but at some point maybe reflect on yourself to see if maybe what they are saying holds some merit. Or you can just keep correcting people like the fat little loser you are.
RTV hi temp sealant for the vented fireplace? Would it work?
Yes
We installed a direct vent fireplace as an insert into an old wood burning fireplace during our renovation. It brings in fresh air from the chimney and exhausts back to chimney via stainless steel pipes. Chimney is sealed off with a cap and this fireplace is a sealed box unit with no air leak whatsoever and works wonderfully for us.
Had a ventless gas FP in my home since 1996. Never had an issue with it and I still never have to turn it past the lowest setting.
It feels good on cold winter nights and when it finally fails, it'll be replaced with another. Say what you want about 'em, they are a thumbs up in my opinion.
What kind of fire place should I use then?
Any stove.Maybe even a rocketstove. Just isolate the chimney? With sand, or build one out of bricks? ;)
The exact one this guy is badmouthing, but maybe with a longer flue to promote more heat transfer between the outgoing flue gases and the incoming combustion gases. Also, have it installed by someone with some clue about fireplaces.
Electric
What is the best LP Gas Non-Vented Fireplace for a New Construction Lakeside home?
What kind of fireplace is best to use that is affordable but also can keep the house well sealed?
These are really great videos, describing the do's and don'ts of building a house. As an electrician I see a lot of these products and as an electrician in Texas I find a lot of the building methods substandard/questionable at best. Matt thanks for making these videos! As a hopeful some day home buyer I'll be looking for the qualities you prescribe. This video especially was enjoyable, keep up the good work both on the job site and on TH-cam!
Forget everything you saw in this video since it is bogus.
dude...i absolutely love my ventless fireplace. 99% efficient. warms the house nicely
not sure if that is a joke, Is there any risk involved? does this need a vent for real? does the heat come from turning electricity into heat or gas into heat, where I would understand the risk.
Awesome video Matt and Team. Great work very helpful. As Matt mentioned some of the worst items for home building. That paper based insulation put in by the builder, or that gas fireplace installed by the builder, what would be better options for replacements for some of these items to correct these for these existing homes built this way? I.e replace that paper insulation with spray foam + FG insulation, replace the gas fireplace with electric fireplace?
Can you use fire caulk for that exhaust flute?