Rookie Builder Mistakes-How to go from an AMATEUR to a PRO!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 มิ.ย. 2024
- If you're ever wondering what some dead giveaways are that you are working with a rookie builder, you might want to watch this video. In it, Matt breaks down some best practices to fix some of the most common, rookie builder mistakes to help know better and build better.
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A mix of normal person and profession oriented content, thank you for returning to this type of video.
Throughout all my home renovations, I constantly think to myself how easy life would be to be doing this and that in a NEW CONSTRUCTION situation, rather than nightmare retrofit unique problem situations, one after the other.
I HATE drilling through old siding ahhhhh
Nice to see that the cameraman from The Blair Witch Project found some other work.
We learned the past 2 or 3 Winters in Texas that being in the South doesn't guarantee no pipes freezing, didn't we? ☹
Why
Yes, but that also had a lot to do with losing power.
@@eh_bailey why
@@CCCC-tq8yo - Just a wild guess but Texas must have had freezing temperatures? Shrug
@@eh_bailey, when your power is on do you heat the outside of the house? 🤔. Last I checked , hose bibs are usually on the outside of the house .
I had to reframe an exterior wall on my house, and seeing your previous videos I did cedar blocks for the outside lights, house bib, and an outlet. I did red cedar shingles, so the cedar blocks blend in great and look super pro for a homeowner job. Thanks!
Dont discourage the use of bubble covers, they are a code requirement those flap door ones arent code anymore. Covers needs to be "while in use" meaning they have to be able to close while something is plugged in, and alternative can be an accordion cover
The Arlington In Box he showed has an in-use cover and is code compliant.
Very much appreciated/interested in non gut it renovations that can help us do better.
Most houses are already built. Most viewers live in their homes. We need more high end retrofit stuff.
Matt, Your energy and your desire to share your knowledge and experience are so invaluable. This is very similar to how visits with my clients go. I am explaining all the amazing solutions I've found for the problems they are discovering and I feel they need a visual reference to back up my claim, but I carry yours in my head. Keep up the great work and again thanks for your tireless dedication to HONEST building practices. I was actually working on a very difficult security system install today and could not get wires to feed correctly and I took a break and thought,
"How would Matt Risinger handle this ?" It forced me to think about the layers of construction and the decades of tradesman that did the work. It was like I had X-Ray vision when I figured out that the security system wires were installed prior to drywall and mud and my client was amazed that I found a work around on the spot. It's not just your know how, its your attitude, insight and enthusiasm that are infectious and impactful. Thanks for all your expertise, insight, and most of all POSITIVITY. BUILD ON!
I’m an HVAC contractor and we use the airex titan outlet on all of our projects, it’s a clean look an keeps the critters out. We also use a UV cover that go over our linesets where exposed to the outdoors & secure with stainless steel straps. I stopped trying to sell it as an upgrade because most customers don’t understand so instead we made it a standard. Great videos, I’m hooked
Recently bought a 100 year old 3-familily, I could use every product in this video. Really appreciate anytime you touch on retro-fit situations.
Hey Matt, I’d love to see a series on how you’d deal with electrical panels, gas lines and hose bibs in a retrofit/residing. So many thermal ply houses that need new siding, wall sheathing and windows. But those services leave a major hurdle to overcome, what are builders doing to deal with these situations?
me too! I want to reside and reinsulate, and seal my house, and I'd like to see how a pro does it!
Matt sez: They Use The Product Of My Sponsorz! Problemz $olved!
ME THREE@@GlueTubber
Thanks Matt! Perfect timing. I constructed three small conditioned buildings for personal use at my residence and just finished with installing zip system panels. I was wondering how properly flash my exterior penetrations. Right on time boss!
Note for future reference: don't let anyone install services through the outside skin of the house. Outdoor electrical outlets can be fed with a conduit down from the eaves, and outdoor water outlets can have a pipe up from the subfloor. Both much easier places to seal everything than the middle of a wall!
Good general information, please follow thru as you are working with many rookies. I like using the blocks or boxes, I believe it would help show a visual using a level to explain that they make sure these items are level so the next step with siding per say the meet horizontal and vertical.
Awesome tips and advice for this new homeowner! Thanks for always great videos on a variety of building topics.
great video! Im about to start framing my new cabin, been binge watching the channel
Matt has endless energy. Even after all these years of videos.
We use the QuickFlash P-50 for hose bibs. We tape it to the Zip sheathing then the plumber stubs in a temporary pipe sticking out that’s capped. After siding is installed, we remove the temporary pipe and then install the hose bib with the permanent pipe. The gasket seals around the permanent pipe even though it’s installed after the siding. Doing it this way keeps us from having to build a mounting block or calculate the thickness needed for the pipe before the siding and rainscreen are installed.
QuickFlash also makes a good HVAC line-set gasket product.
Great information. Thank you, I have learned so much watching the videos you have put out.
Super helpful since I'm going to be running electrical in my rebuilt, reframed, Zip-sheathed kitchen/dining room soon. Inbox ordered from Amazon!
Very good tips! Thanks!
More of this type of content Matt! Great video!
Great video. Can you do a similar video for brick install instead of siding. Thank you
Appreciate this advice!
I really LOVE this channel! Such great content. Thank you for the wonderful video.
Just ordered some Arlington boxes for my build! Love them already!
Love learning from your videos, Thank you Matt!!
Agreed on Lexel as choice of sealant. User tip, tooling time is rather short compared to many other sealants. Git er done quick!
Really good video. Love the demonstration.
Great information Matt. How about options for a 4 in. dryer vent with old construction.
On my 80’s house, used Arlington in box for the look, but compromised insulation behind. At least the ones I added was the garage. The oil heater doesn’t mind, just not cheap.
Put the caulk on the bubble cover gasket. When you tighten it, it squishes just right.
Matt, Im interested on how the perfect wall and high efficiency insulation concepts can be applied to concrete/block buildings common to south Florida. also thank you for all the effort you put into bringing so much knowledge to homeowners and pros
Very welcome! The concept of Perfect Wall works great on a Florida block construction. Use a fluid applied WRB outside the block then add all your insulation outside! Makes a 500yr assembly
@@buildshow outstanding!
Thanks, very educational
Thanks so much for showing us all this great info! And tell your camera ops that they need to remember to white balance - the color difference between the shots and the reds looking very orange on one of the cameras is pretty distracting.
Again, thanks for the great content!
Love your stuff Matt. Josh from Australia
Hey Matt, in this video from NS Builders they installed a piece of PVC pipe in the exterior wall before they installed the hose bib so that the bib can be more easily removed and replaced in the future (They caulk the pipe to the sheathing and the bib to the pipe) Minute 3:30
th-cam.com/video/GRozbvKYAss/w-d-xo.html
They also do something similar for electrical penetrations through the wall (minute 5:05).
Great video
But I got to point out one of the biggest rookie mistakes on this video was that disaster of a finish caulking bead on that box that Matt did
Thanks for the info Matt! I’m about to be upgrading how we do our punctures for water and electrical. Always learning from the Build Show 🫡
Great video!
Ooh! Glass cleaner? Genius! Gonna try it out on my Hardie install.
It makes it so much easier. Use the spray and not the pump. The spray always feels oily kind of over the pump. The cheep spray works way better as well.
This video was great!
If you're not careful that romex will wick water through that outter jacket. A better option is using a rigid close nipple threaded into a weatherproof box and a plastic bushing on the end. Use whatever sealant on the back slide romex through the nipple and screw it on. Use duct seal putty to fill nipple after to prevent thermal transfer.
AWESOME- YOU HAD ME THE MOMENT YOU CRINGED!- fascinating membrane options to seal cavities, thank you for the products.😊
For that hose bibb, you can cut a custom neoprene gasket that goes behind the bibb @ 7:00. It should avoid the need for caulking.
Lexel really is a fantastic sealant. It’s not just marketing hype. I love that stuff. My only complaint about it is the price (expensive) and the flash time/tooling time.
and the other ind of the scale is clear quad. (colored quad is just fine) had a guy insist I use it, once, and I put on the bead, then licked my finger and rolled it all up into a ball and handed it to him. I don't think you could stick that stuff to fresh lexel.
Florida General Contractor here, Thanks for pushing Lexel, I use it everywhere buddy....
Also doesn't black mold..
@davidblain2714 - no mold is good to know!
Matt, thank you for the video. One thing I was hoping to see covered is roughing in round electrical boxes for mounting sconces on either side of my garage door. I will be installing new sheathing in this area so will be able to handle this as though it were new construction. What do you recommend?
No tape for the romex? It seems like that would be a good option too.
Great improvements! I hope more production builders are listening.
Have your trades, who are doing work that passes through the sheathing, wrap, and such, put a slightly larger piece of pvc pipe or conduit in the opening to pass wire and pipes through. If you do that prior to cladding, you can seal up the opening in the rainscreen, and you can seal the pipe or conduit caulk. That way, you don't lose the integrity of the wrap or sheathing. It will act like a grommet.
They aren't rookies they just don't care! I worked in a few trades; mainly as an Electrician. I'm done with the B.S.! Most builders suck these days. They literally call up everyone to the job. I've experienced early in my career, builders that managed the project. There is an order that the trades should follow. Sometimes it's necessary to have meetings with all the trades to work out issues. At the end of my career, I've been called to jobs in the middle of framing, before HVAC and places with no floors, just floor joists and a single piece of plywood to move over joist so I can set ladder on it. Did I mention having to figure out how to assemble 1 million different light fixtures? Or arguing with a 27 year old architect, a female designer, or an engineer that has no clue how the stuff actually goes together. And if you make it through all that, good luck getting paid!
i like see comfort board the water barrier and how tape or seal on the opening
Sprayaway... who knew??? Great tip..pun!
Why not use a surface mounted weatherproof electrical box? Feed the wire through the back and you can caulk the entire back to the sheeting before installing it and then caulk around it. Even on new construction, this maximizes the seal and minimizes the penetration. This isn’t unlike the pvc backer block you used for the hose bib. If your electrician/plumber doesn’t use good caulking, they’re cutting other corners.
Can’t wait for the “Painter Channel” to call your caulk application rookie.
great seal gun and the cleaner works with huber advantech glue!! way cheaper
Good video. I need RR Buildings to do a version for post-frame construction
Hey Matt, do you have advice for flashing the various penetrations for the exposed board formed concrete wall? It's cast in place so air/vapor barrier is the rigid insulation.
I don't know if it has become trendy in Texas but in California, they have decided to start installing the outdoor outlets horizontally rather than vertically. They seem to all be in "old work" plastic boxes. If an extension cord plugged in is yanked sideways it will pull the box right out of the wall. As a service Electrician I have had to repair these numerous times.
Love this channel, hate that caulk job😂👊🏻
How do you feel about the aquor hose bibs? They look cool but theres thoguhts on durability with plastic on metal.
This needs to be a series, not just 1 video, lol
Just remove the screws on the hose bibb or outlet box and put the sealant on the back side. You’ll almost always have enough slack in the pipes (regardless of pex/copper/pvc) to pull the hose bibb out far enough to squirt some lexel behind it.
ive been looking for a product like that in-box for a while and had concluded that it didnt exist. Luckily I dont have my siding up yet. thank you.
If you’re going to put a sealant around the cable like that it has to be listed for that, is there somewhere that either of those products list it being compatible with the outer jacket of that cable?
Caulk around the bubble cover... What happens when the GFI goes bad at year 1.5 and you need to remove the bubble cover? I guess in this scenario you cut the caulk, replace the GFI, then add another bead of caulk.
He didn't caulk around the cover, he caulked around the box. The cover and receptacle can still be removed
One thing when you were cutting the tip off the sealant is most of the time the gun has a snip built in to cut that off.. a lot easier and safer than using a pocket knife..
It’s funny that the pros where I live in Maine just drill through the siding and squirt some silicone as the sealant.
Does any of this change for retro fits on stucco siding?
What would you recommend for a dryer/ fresh air vent. About 3”.
Where are you able to find the titan outlet for retrofits? I can't seem to find anywhere online.
I hate sprayfoam with the heat of a thousand suns. there was one house I did where I had to spend a half day wrecking out an adjustabox and replacing it because the insulators glued it in place with sprayfoam. once the sprayfoam goes in, there is no repairing or modifying ANYTHING without tearing things apart.
So the Arlington boxes screw into the sheathing? Is that considered structural support for a light fixture or outlet?
We normally just use a block sealed with silicone with flashing on the top, then just a cut in box that is spray foamed from the inside.
Just curious, can Lexel be used for all of these applications instead of the liquid flash? The reason being the cost. Also, what is the difference between liquid flash and roof polyurethane flashing sealant? Can that be used in this application?
Maybe a dumb homeowner question but .... couldn't the Oatey Vertical Flashing be installed by itself behind the hose bibb? Or is the white solid square necessary? I'm disregarding the depth required for the bibb to project flush with the siding obviously - just asking if the flashing requires another material between it and the bibb. Thanks
Take a drink every time he says, “Allura siding”.
instead of bubble cover what do you recommend for outlet covers
Is there a reason a mounting block assembly couldn’t be done after the siding is put up?
How would any of that work with Rockwool Comfortboard 80 exterior insulation?
When sealing around penetrations, should it be all 4 sides? Or just 3 (not the bottom)? Or does it depend on something?
in rainy areas, you never seal the bottom. you lap it so the water gets back out.
I always only tape/caulk the top and sides of the mounting box and leave the bottom open in case any water needs to get out. In your video you did all 4 sides every time. Is there a reason you are taping/caulking all 4 sides?
I always worry about water not being able to get out, but I feel as though I am missing out on that extra bit of air/bug sealing that I would get from doing the bottom too.
@jeremyzwicker - good question! Hopefully, you'll get a response.
I believe it is for air sealing. If water gets in, it will be going into your wall cavity anyway, unlike a window that has a sill for water to sit.
3 sides for falling water, 4 sides for wind blown water and bugs. @@lucasfallert4031
Just curious, why is a Alumi-flash not good for the north?
I like my outlets to be at least 3 or 4 feet off my siding, I wanna be able to knock it off when I pull in the driveway!
Can you demo flashing exterior lights?
Finally in 4K!
What is the caulk gun used with Lexel?
the biggest problem is when you go for the lowest bid on your subs, they won't want to come out for a half day and preset all the penetrations. if you build a relationship with good craftsmen, they will be all to happy to put in the extra effort to do good work.
i hope my future builders watch these videos
If these are the biggest concerns at my house, I've got the world by the ballz.
Matt, could you put links or a list to all these products that you talked about?
Yes, I've been trying to find the split Airex cover for an existing lineset on my house, but I can't even find the item on the manufacturer's website let alone a link to purchase one
what caulk gun are you using in this video
Do these tips apply to brick homes?
Can you have more full-length advertising put in your videos? They are great
how does the titan outlet seal around the line set?
as soon as you applied that sealer to the wire, you made that receptacle repair proof.
On my builds, I block out all my mechanicals,
That way the siding guy butts to my blocking that is already weatherproof
The plumber will not pre-drill as you demonstrated. The plumber will use drywall screws so they rust in the future to make sure you get rust stains.
Electrician here. On a metal siding building I'll put on a bell box everything unless the metal man or contractor cuts out for a work box.
To be honest, I saw a couple of filming mistakes here. Things like where the camera operators didn't line up properly on the product being filmed (e.g., the wedge on the hose bib), or where the scene clearly hadn't been rehearsed enough and the expensive hose bib fell out of the AlumiFlash wall, or where the PVC mounting block had been left screwed into the wall, etc....
But, to me, I appreciate seeing the editor leave mistakes like this in the final version. It helps me connect better with you as a person who is sharing your knowledge with me, as opposed to being some perfect ideal Hollywood presenter who gets all the words right and shows off the product correctly, but who doesn't actually understand any of the things they're saying or any of the products they're holding.
too bad your 2nd paragraph isn't seen unless the reader bothers to click for more. Seeing only the first paragraph really gives the wrong impression.