I live in the western US. I used a 5 burner radiant version like this. I used this for about 15 years until we moved. I loved and miss it. Air here is very dry and the moisture from it helped me breathe. We used it in our basement and it would keep the basement perfect and until middle December it was our go to because all of the heat it generated went into the house. We used the furnace after that as a backup. I checked the heater with a gas detector several times and it didn't register any CO. The house was built in the '40's so it wasn't sealed as tight as they are now. The main area of concern with these is the by product of combustion being water vapor. So you want to be aware of the increased humidity from that. I now have a ventless flueless fireplace in my motor coach and love it as well. Good luck. I'm not an endorser or expert simply relating my experience with these heaters. Hope,this helps.
I have been using a natural gas ventless heater for the last sixteen years. My house built circa 1890 and it leaks air like a sieve. I have had absolutely no problem with CO at all I have a detector within three or four feet of the heater. My main unit is a 30,000 BTU heater with a fan, I use it during the daytime to heat the lower rear of the house. I also have a 20,000 btu unit with no fan to heat the living room in the evening. At night I let the house furnace do it's job, but I have it set for only 60 degrees fahrenheit.
My late wife was a Mississippi girl, and these are commonly used there in place of a traditional furnace. They put out amazing heat, and I loved their low maintenance feature - no moving parts, so very little to go wrong with them. I have a Little Buddy for back here in the bedroom in the event of a power failure or some other SHTF scenario; it is an amazing little heater - same thing on a propane canister. It takes the chill off the air beautifully.
Same here I had central heat and air for years and it was costing me a fortune to keep it going every year. I have natural gas and installed one of these and I love it. I put a air conditioner window unit it in and I am done. I would never go back to having central heat and air again. Oh I’ve read in the comments here that these heaters cause condensation and mold but I had the same amount when I had central heat and air. Old people have for years and still use the ventless gas space heaters which is the same thing. I have the same heater that is in this video and it got us through the cold spell here in Texas last week. I had heat when people with central heat didn’t. Mississippi women are the best. They know how to cook some good food.
@@leodannyportal I had problems with the pilot light going out. Did the maintenance cleaning and still had a problem but less frequent. I got to thinking the oxygen sensor was my problem. I cracked a window about an inch and have not had to relight the heater since. My apartment in my metal building is very well insulated and tight and the heater was not getting enough fresh air. Keep that in mind. I will try the dehumidifier. Thanks for the tip.
Which ones are ok for use in a bedroom? I saw a warning that one was not for a bedroom. I gather that: I need a dehumidifier, and I need a CO detector, and I should only run it for a few hours at a time.
@@yamspaine Quick tips: •if it says don’t use in a bedroom, don’t •circulation is key to getting it to all rooms. (Ceiling fans drawing up towards ceiling, tall fan pointed down the hall, and transfer fans above bedroom doors all help) •crack a window if it’s ventless I’m by no means an expert. My house currently has one of these (ventless) to heat the whole house. I’ve used them besides that over the years, as well. Don’t put them in bedrooms if they say not to. Unless you got a hole in your exterior wall big enough to throw a dog through, something that says not for bedroom use is much too powerful for a bedroom. I’m not someone who likes to follow rules, but they’re only saving you from yourself when they say that. My 3 burner propane heater is rated for 800 sqft. My house is 1500ish. I’m usually heating about 1100, and i only really have to turn all 3 burners on when it gets down in the 20s. Bear in mind, i have an old and drafty house. I also love my house to be very warm. So my guess is that the sqft they rate for is accounting for the fact you’ll have some source of fresh air but at least halfway decently insulated walls & windows. Leave a window cracked bc oxygen displacement can kill. Carbon monoxide shouldn’t be an issue if the unit is running right, but the ventless will always cause oxygen displacement. You and your flame need oxygen to survive, so it actually heats the room better with fresh air coming in,
Our furnace went bad in our small house approximately 10 years ago. They wanted a fortune to replace in the January cold..15 degrees to - 15 degrees. We had no choice but to use our natural gas kitchen stove top burners to stay warm. We had co2 detectors. Heated for 3 months that way . Just relating our story.
I used a small tube through wall with a ball valve to bring outside air to the unit. This allows a controlled air leak from outside to supply some air, when not using I would turn valve off to shut off air leak. Found this better than cracking a window to allow air in as the air pipe was next to the unit and any extra air was heated immediately. I used these in very airtight green houses where they did deplete the oxygen overnight and were out in the mornings. With air pipe there was no problems.
@@wadepatton2433 that was my thought, only used up enough oxygen that heat went out. Earth berms but still lost crop, had to start over. Didn't think 40 foot greenhouse would deplete. Made it to tight.
I would suggest that you do not burn candles while using this appliance. If you do, you will produce a black oily substance that will get all over your house and in your lungs. It sneaks up in you so, just something to keep in mind. These appliances generally use room air to mix with the gas to burn. If that air has lots of particles in it, whether dust, vaporized wax, air fresheners, etc, it will combust as well and come out as something unpleasant.
This is my issue with these heaters. If you spray any kind of aerosols, kick up dust, use cleaners or chemicals, they will find their way to the heater and burn, producing nasty unpleasant smells and probably a soup of toxic fumes from the combustion. Outside of that they do work well I have one I keep for backup heat in an emergency.
Thank u for info. I almost passed out last night because our ventless heater was running for 4 days/nights straight. Weird thing is that the guy that installed the Jolt 3 classic ventless heater told us we can run it forever and not worry about anything. Update as of winter 2022-2023 We r running our heater second winter now. It seems like it doesn’t need to be shut down. U set the temperature and it’s stays on that temperature. No smell. No poison gasses. This is why it’s called ventless heater. The smell I have smelled when I wrote that comment is when u just turn on the heater and it starts to smell like rotten eggs. That is normal. Smell goes away after few days.
Many models come with thermostatic control - a control valve with a thermostat sensing bulb - but not all do. I’m not sure, though, if you were asking in general or in response to MJisKING447.
@@HillPropertyInspections Update as of winter 2022-2023 We r running our heater second winter now. It seems like it doesn’t need to be shut down. U set the temperature and it’s stays on that temperature. No smell. No poison gasses. This is why it’s called ventless heater. The smell I have smelled when I wrote that comment is when u just turn on the heater and it starts to smell like rotten eggs. That is normal. Smell goes away after few days.
Thank you for making this video. I moved into a new rental Home and it has these heaters in the rooms and the safety tips are also appreciate. I was sitting here freezing until I found this video lol thanks again!
Hooking up to the natural gas system was costing me $60 for the initial visit and $20 a month in fixed costs before I burned one Therm of gas. The gas companies in Georgia got tired of having people jump in and out of the system over the Summer, so, they make people sign a contract for a whole year. When I had the natural gas on, I was spending $100 - $120 before I bought the first bit of fuel to burn. (When they changed to annual contracts, it became $240 base and eliminated a lot of their service calls for hookups.) My heat pump works great from March to December. It's just those two months in the middle of Winter when I need a little more heat on the really cold nights. I have been getting by with just the heat pump, but after the Texas disaster a few years ago, I decided to have a bullet proof system for super cold weather. A Mr. Heater 30,000 BTU propane heater now sits in my living room and points at the walls where all the plumbing happens to be. When the temps really plumet, I light up Mr. Heater and burn $4 worth of propane a day to keep the house a toasty 70 F. When a tree branch takes out the power for the whole neighborhood, I still have heat. *Remember, gas furnaces require electricity for their fans and igniters. Having natural gas is not enough. People froze to death in Texas because their electrical system cut out and the blowers and igniters on their furnaces stopped working. Imagine waking up at 4 AM with the house down into the low 40s and no lights! Propane costs more, but when you factor in the annual gas contract, it's cheaper in the long run to do Propane in my situation. When I move somewhere else, I will take the Propane system with me. (My math teacher is probably looking down from heaven and laughing because I actually used algebra to figure out that Propane was a better choice. I swore I would never need algebra.) The Mr. Heater 30,000 BTU propane heater with the optional fan cost less than a single year's base connection fee for the natural gas company. After two years, I was way ahead on the total cost. It's nice to not have to worry about freezing in some SHTF scenario. I cycle two 40# propane tanks so I always have a full one. I also welded up a holder that mounts in my trailer hitch receiver for easy external transport of the tanks. (For some reason, people never tailgate me when I have a large propane tank on the back of my vehicle.) 🤔
These units are not only for backup heat. My main source of heat is a ventless fireplace log set. The burners are underneath and between the 'logs'. When I moved to a rural and higher in elevation area it was quite obvious that electric heat was an absolute NO WAY!. Propane heaters, which cycle according to the temperature you set, are the absolute BEST form of heat. The only time I use the 'backup' electric baseboard heat is when I close the door to go to bed at night. The propane is turned down about 6-8 degrees and turned up in the morning or kept lower if I am going to work. However, the best space propane space heater is a 'blue flame' type. The 'red' 'plate' type are a waste of gas. I've been heating my house like this for over 11 years. The only time the CO detector has gone off is when it needed the battery replaced.
Have you had experience with natural gas versus propane? Propane is obviously more readily available in many rural areas, but natural gas is quite a bit cheaper and provides a steady supply that, unlike propane, doesn’t have to be delivered.
I looked into these about 10 years ago. In the States, they were very affordable, and seemed safe with the low oxygen sensor, etc. They were not allowed in Canada, and I worried about my house insurance. I should do further research, as it now appears I can use these in Canada, but the price is about 10X higher than before.
I have that exact same heater in my wood shop. Does a very good job considering the space, especially during cooler but not real cold weather. I have a 150k btu salamander style heater for when it gets really cold. Mine has the fan which definitely helps.
I just put one of these in our home, I put it in the coldest room in the house, our master bathroom, and this is important when I burn this heater I turn on the bathroom fan as to take out any fumes. The only complaint I have is you must buy hoses and other things, a lot of this don't come with the heater, (gas lines and fittings). I bet they sell a lot of these.
With wall heaters like theses, the terms "vent-less" or "direct-vent" are not referring to where the combustion air is coming from, but rather where the combustion by-products go (CO2 and water vapor for a properly burning heater). "Vent-less" wall heaters discharge combustion by-products into the room or area where the heater is installed. The burners on your gas stove are a form of vent-less heater. "Direct-vent" wall heaters discharge (vent) the combustion by-products outdoors "directly" through the wall on which they are mounted. As opposed to being piped to an existing chimney.
Direct vent systems are a sealed system and they’re taking exhaust 100 percent to the outside and taking fresh air from the outside as well. Unlike a direct vent appliance, a B-vent appliance isn’t a sealed system, so it draws combustion air from the room into the combustion chamber. Exhaust then goes out through the roof via a single double-wall pipe, the outer layer of which acts as a heat insulator.
I have a 5 panel version of this heater and it is very oxygen sensitive. If I have my bathroom vent fan on hi with the door open it will move enough air to shut the heater down. Love the thing
Ventless units not only get air from inside the living spaces - they also vent combustion byproducts into the living space. If the oxygen depletion sensor malfunctions they may pose a serious safety issue. The manufacturers operation instructions generally say they should be operated with a nearby window cracked open. They also generate a lot of water vapor in normal operation. So condensation on interior walls and windows is often seen. Some areas (California for sure) do not allow them. The CA Mechanical Code 916 (room Heaters) says: Ventless heaters are "not allowed to be sold, installed or permitted to exist." in residential occupancies. I am a CA home inspector and see them occasionally. I'd assume people are getting them in via online sources as no supplier in CA can legally sell them, let alone install them. In areas using the International residential code fuel gas section (much of the US), they may be allowed but maybe limited as to: the maximum BTU input rating allowed (40,000 BTU's), require a minimum room volume (see IRC 2406), etc. See IRC 2445 Unvented Room Heaters. Just an FYI
Yes, all very true. They’re very common (and not prohibited) in our area, so it’s good for people to at least know how they operate and how to safely use them IF they own or plan to have them.
I have one and I love it. Keeping a window cracked open and using ceiling fans is the key. I had central heat for years and I had just as much condensation as with this. Plus I don’t have the expense of keeping the central heat unit going. Got us through the cold spell here in Texas last week. We had heat when people with central heat didn’t.
Can you do a video on the fan blower and whether or not is necessary on radiant heater and if I should get one installed just to keep the unit cooler???
I have that exact same heater, the only downside is that each block will produce 1 oz of water per hour, so that 15,000 btu heater will produce 3 oz of extra moister in your home ever hour used!
I’m a HVAC Contractor and I have customers asking me to install these units for them. So for Natural Gas, it releases Carbon Monoxide into the air space around it.... hmmm. Not sure what the engineers were thinking on this one. Anything that burns a gas should be vented outside. Even gas stove tops are supposed to have a vented hood to outside. The same for gas furnaces and gas waters heaters. Not sure how they managed to pass this off as a ventless gas heater that is safe... please advise, because I’d love to know more about how these work.
Good point. Some states prohibit these altogether or at least limit their size (BTU output) for smaller spaces like bedrooms. Most have built-in CO and oxygen depletion sensors to kill the pilot if unsafe levels are detected, but those can obviously fail over time. The best solution is simply to keep smoke and CO detectors (separate, not combined) near the heater and to check them at least monthly. Also, the heater shouldn’t be run for periods longer than a couple hours at a time, and it’s a good idea to briefly open a window to allow in some fresh air to replenish oxygen levels. These are really intended to be backup units, not whole-house heating systems. As long as they’re used properly and basic safety precautions are observed, they usually serve their purpose well.
Yes I have this as a source of heat in a loft area, put up a CO2 detector, took all of 2 mins before it started going crazy! Bummer because it does warm up fast!
I have had one of these in my house for several years and I love it. Unlike central heat not much to go wrong. Keep a window cracked open and all will be fine. My carbon monoxide detector as never went off. We use ceiling fans too.
Youre not a very good contractor then since these dont put out CO unless there is a lack of air. I have run one for 20 years and never had a problem. Every classroom i was in as a kid has a ventless gas heater on the wall and several apartments as well. CO fearmongering is absurd.
I'm trying to decide the best one (brand) to buy! I mainly want it for when electricity goes off. Sometimes here it can be off as long as four hours in the winter. Gets way too cold!
Very helpful. Of course my thoughts are heating my tiny cottage I would leave the thing on for more than 2 hour stretches. Otherwise whats the point? You get yourself warmed up and then have to freeze again. So my thinking is that I would crack open a window a bit just to provide some fresh oxygen. I have heard that others do that as well. Would appreciate some input on this.
@@HillPropertyInspections even with cleaning with air around the valve I have to re light mine often. I have a carbon monoxide detector and it has never went off. I haven’t cracked a window but I am going to do so. I am thinking that might solve my problem. Otherwise I love this heater. I had central heat for years and it was costing me a fortune to keep it going. It got us through the Texas cold spell last week. Very nice video. Mine is almost the exact same one in the video. It is a Williams that I bought at Home Depot. Can you do a video on maintenance?
@@JohnDavis-yz9nq Spiders love to build a web in the pilots of these over the summer. My understanding is that they are attracted to the fragrance they add to natural gas. In any event, if the pilot wont stay lit, open the housing and spray out the pilot with canned air. I take the line off the pilot but that may not be necessary. I have to do this every year or two with mine.
@@djcanfield1 I just leave my pilot light going during the summer. It does not put off that much heat. I guess I should turn it completely off. I still go into it and clean it with air before I start using it. Even with cleaning twice back to back it would go off during really cold weather. Then I cracked a window open and that solved my problem. My apartment in my metal building is very tight with insulation and I think the heater was depleting the oxygen and it was automatically shutting down. But yes cleaning it is important too. When it was shutting down I originally thought that I must have been missing something in the cleaning process. But now I am convinced the low oxygen sensor was shutting the heater off. It hasn’t shut itself off since early February. I am convinced that theses ventless heaters need some sort of a fresh air intake and cracking a window open about two inches was the easiest way out for me. If yours starts shutting down keep the cracked window in mind. Thanks for the information. I was not aware that spiders liked the smell of the fragrance in natural gas.
I have this in my basement “sports den” warms up nice. But we only use it as needed, turn off the pilot and gas valve when not in use, be smart. For heating a room for a football game it’s great, but I would not use this as a main heating source. BTW these are not allowed to be sold in NH.
@@TheRealCheckmate yes I agree. But let me tell you something. I started leaving a window cracked open just a little and I haven’t had to re light the heater in a longtime. I am beginning to think that it was depleting the oxygen in my house and automatically shutting itself off. My house is very tight with insulation.
@@TheRealCheckmate I really think that was my problem with pilot light not staying on. And yes the jet for the pilot does need to be cleaned. I do that once in the beginning of cold weather before I start up the heater. It has been close to a month since I’ve had to relight it. I really am thinking the window open just a little solved my problem. It is a inexpensive heater that has worked well for me. I had central heat and air and it was costing me too much to keep that junk going. I get condensation in the windows with this heater but I had just as much when I had central heat as well. With this one I can work on myself or go get another one easy.
I looked it up and it looks like that model can come with or without a thermostatic control (thermostat sensing bulb). Yours must unfortunately not have one or it would automatically shut off when your set temperature range is met.
My brand new dyna glo blue flame works but the burner cycles on and off when it barely reaches 60 degrees. I have the thermostat set on 5. I would think it would stay on until at least 70 degrees. What could be the problem?
I turn the big vented one on in the front room and turn it up and push the heat into the other rooms with a fan. This is a pain. I got a second, small ventless unit for the back of the house. To solve the problems some people in the comments are talking about, can I make a vent over it, and stovepipe it out the chimney hole? My other question is can I make a big square hole in the wall, so it's sort of outdoors and sort of indoors? I can't turn that thing on and go to sleep next to it until I'm 100%
I have one of these heaters. It worked one week to never work again. It was brand new out of the box. Wish it worked. Don't don't even know who to call to fix it.
I have one of these but when on 3 placards if a breeze hits it, it goes crazy. It makes an awful sound and the placards have flames on and around them. I've stopped using and was wondering what would cause this
We installed a DynaGlo wall propane heater a month ago. It's hooked up to a 250gal propane tank and was installed by the gas company. Our problem is the heater gives off a clorine odor. It's so strong that my husband is getting headaches and we had to shut it off. Any ideas on what is causing this odor? It's not a rotten egg smell, so we dont think it's the gas. Just can't tolerate the chemical smell.
Hello ( Hill Property Inspections ) Do these units cause MOLD in a residence that are hard to reach , attics, under floor joists, behind cupboards etc ? Just inspected a home that was very molded with no water leaks, but had a ventless heater, We are trying to find the cause of the condensation.
The only problem i had with my open flame model was moisture. I am sure this one does the same. Propane flame produces moisture. So the only way I could use mine was with a dehumidifier. So just be aware. Great heaters but also watch the humidity levels as well.
leave door to other rooms open to get more air... fans to move the air around. 20" box fan on top of unit to blow heat/fumes around and heat up more area or heat goes straight to ceiling. ceiling fan blowing down is good. box fans are cheap and easy to move. i drilled a 3/8" hole in the top of my heater and same hole in the bottom of 20" box fan so can mount it to the top of the heater to blow heat/fumes around. works grreat in 10' high ceilings. the ceiling doesnt need any heat. condensation is a problem though on COLD surfaces= mold...that wipes off easily with basic bathroom cleaner /clorox stuff . 99.9% efficient heaters, but got to be ... smarter than the heater and NOT SUPPOSED TO USE IT IN BEDROOMS OR BATHROOMS (confined places/where sleep) as .... go to sleep... forever.
SOS - I have one of these heaters and the pilot flame is burning yellow and about a 1 inch high I don’t think that’s normal any way to adjust the flame very concerned
I just installed this to natural gas and wasn't getting any gas to the pilot I took the front off and there's a set screw that was screwed the whole way in when you run these to ng do you have to adjust the set screw to work
I've used this type heart for several years in my kitchen for When the weather is extremely cold. My issue is I've been using grill size propane tank and it is not as efficient as I think it can be Would using a larger tank be better ? What would you suggest ? The positive about the small tank is the fact I can carry it myself to be refilled. Last year is cost $15. Help please. Thank you...
maybe you can help out my wall heater.. 2 brick when th ebricks attempt to light and become red via thermostat th eflame seems to dance around and not staying with the bricks and they do not light correcty giving off unburned gas siggestions to fix?
i have a 5 burner ceramic wall floor mount 30k btu, i keep getting carbon monoxide readings that go from 0 and climb to 15 all over the room which is fairly airtight but not totally and about 25 by 60 feet and open with 10 foot ceilings. i just aired it out again, placed a fan about 10 feet in front of the stove to blow a small bit of room air into it to see if th is helps. i see no air adjustment on it. it has the standard off pilot on with varying temperatures to select by spinning the knob, each ceramic grid has its own propane tube. the ceramic start blue when cold and go red within 3 minutes.
Have you gotten any readings higher than the 15 ppm you mentioned? If I remember correctly, most CO alarms won’t go off until levels have been 50 ppm for 8 hours, and the times decrease as the levels increase. So 15 may not even set off alarms and wouldn’t typically be in a concerning range. 400 ppm or more would set it off in a matter of minutes, which is obviously far higher than 15. Very small amounts could be normal, but it’s definitely something worth monitoring.
@@HillPropertyInspections my detector starts at 5, 0, 5 then 6 7 and on up, it is very sensitive and accurate, if u ride the atv with it on, when you stop, the carbon washes over you and the display spikes way up and the alarm goes off, then quickly goes to 0 and stops sounding. it is a smart sensor as8700a
@@HillPropertyInspections i just replaced the heater with a new one, waiting to see what the carbon monoxide does. In any case, the new one has an ODS and the old one didnt, so it was worth it. If I still get CO could it be the regulator provided by the gas co is not correct in its settings ? This one specifically calls for min 11" WC to max 14" low pressure regulator, mr heater part number F276136 or equivalent. Is that something that should already be in the circuit of this 10 year old install ?
@@HillPropertyInspections so the brand new heater has been on about 30 minutes, my carbon monoxide is already back up to 9 which is where it was on install after airing building out, is this being caused by the low pressure regulator installed by the gas provider ? It is a 100 gallon vertical tank.
@@HillPropertyInspections actually it peaked at 9, i had it said at PEAK, it now says 5 as I walk around, so it is half what the old one was making... SO FAR also, 5 is this sniffers lowest reading, so could be something less than 5
Do they come as vented so they are safer for off grid not electric folks that need it for overnight heating or when I am at work for the dogs and cats....
Yes they do make vented ones in smaller sizes, Empire, Williams and Cozy are most common. Direct vent models vent through a wall, while standard vented models require a metal chimney though the roof. They are a lot more expensive than these ventless models though. Direct vent will vent through the wall, so must be installed on an outside wall. Installing the vent in the wall can be some work depending on how your house is constructed. Keep in mind also that with vented models you won't get 100% of the BTU output listed for the heater since some is lost through the vent. Some Empire and Williams models are only 70-75% efficient. The big advantage with direct vent heaters though is that all your combustion air to the burners comes from outside, and exhausted outside through the same vent opening, no inside room air is being taken.
Can this be used safely with 30# propane tanks??? I just purchased the heater and didn’t realize until I brought it inside that it recommended for a 100# tank 🙄🤦🏻♀️🤔
Am I right to take from this that the safety concern has only to do with the flame using up the oxygen in the room? In other words, it is not about gases that the fire gives off? Also, I take it that safety is no better or worse with propane vs. natural gas. Great video! Thanks!
Thanks, I’m glad it was helpful! The main concerns are depleted interior oxygen levels AND possible carbon monoxide and other potentially toxic exhaust gases. With a direct-vent unit that vents outdoors, the oxygen is drawn in from outside and the exhaust gases also go outside. Neither is true with ventless units, although they burn “clean” and don’t produce the same high levels that, say, a furnace or boiler would. Most of these heaters have built-in oxygen depletion sensors and CO detectors, but they’re parts that can fail at any time. That’s why it’s best to not run them for too long and to be sure to keep smoke and CO alarms in the same room. Hope that helps!
Keep a window cracked open a little is you need to do. I have had one in my house for 8 years and I love it. A lot cheaper than central heat. I run ceiling fans too.
@@HillPropertyInspections I understand the concern but very few houses that would be using this type of heater (including both of my living spaces) are tight enough to ever worry about oxygen depletion, that's a scare tactic that would be very likely to ever happen. I use my heater like this 24 hrs a day with no issues whatsoever.
@@MrMilanoLau Well No....the point is to heat the room not cool it off. I also have a wood burning stove in here going.. Like I said this isn't a air tight room like you might think. Also my shop is attached to this room and I'm trying to heat it all with a few different heat sources. 40x60 building with 14 ft walls.
What would cause the entire unit to shut down after being on for a period of time? I am not able to light the pilot when this happens but if I wait several hours I can light it and it seems okay until I turn the heater on for a period of time then it shuts down again?
My question is where can I find small vented units. I need on for my van. Everywhere I look all I see these crappy unvented units. What happens to the units that function as radiators and did not vent the fumes into the place you are trying to heat. Where can I find these older units.
@@HillPropertyInspections looking for vented units, small inexpensive units for vans, RVs and trailers. Might be use in a 10 by 10 off grid cabin. Sometimes these vented units are referred to as direct-vented meaning to the outside directly through a wall. These use to be quite common in various stights for cheap mobile home heating and are seen allot in third world countries. These units heat sorta like old radiator heaters with simple heat exchangers for both convection and radiant heat. Just don't know how to find these units.
A lot of people say there must be proper ventilation while using this kind of gas heaters. However, they never say clearly what exactly should be done. Do we need to have an ventilation fan running or just a small crack at the window will be good enough?
Have this heater in the hallway, the first two bricks are blue, the third one is red, had the heater a few years should I worry? Have a carbon monoxide detector and keep a window raised
How do I know if my heater is ventless? I have a Rannai propane wall mounted heater - looks similar to this except no manually igniting of a pilot (not sure what turns it on, except an 'on' button. :-). There is a plug - I presume for the blower - but I don't think it would operate at all without electricity.
I have a hearth rite 3 burner on the wall and it's getting pretty warm outside I need to shut it off for the summer do I shut it off at the shut off by the stove than of the top where the control is ????? please help
If it’s like the one in the video, just turn the control knob so that “off” is facing the arrow. The pilot will go out and you’re good. If you want to shut off the gas supply, there should be a valve near the heater. Turning the valve 90 degrees so that it’s perpendicular to the line will shut off the gas.
Does it have an oxygen depletion sensor to measure the oxygen in the air and auto shut down when the oxygen is too low? If not, this is probably why the heater would not be able to be installed.
Are the burners supposed to stay on once they light, or do they cycle on and off to regulate temperature? I just moved into an apartment that has these as the sole source of heat, and mine ran fine for a bit then turned off. The pilot light still looks fine and I can't find anywhere whether this is what is supposed to happen or not.
Not normally, but sometimes a placard or two goes bad. But you can control the desired heat output with the control knob. It isn’t perfect, but a lower setting will cause it to ignite and go out more often.
I gave a Williams one very similar to this, but it only worked for a short time. It won't stay lit. I can't find anyone that will work on them. Any ideas on that? How much are the newer ones? Thanks!
are these safe to leave on overnight? bought an old house, it only has these and i just replaced the old ones with new ones but have never used gas before.. google says to only run it for 4 hours and never overnight but its -22°f outside right now and these are keeping us warm right now.. kinda scared to go to sleep. also when not in use are you supposed to leave the pilot lit or just shut it off? i dont understand the purpose of the pilot if not to be kept on other than to light the whole thing.
If you live in a modern air tight home you might need to crack a window to allow fresh air in. Older homes with mo or little insulation maybe not so much. Should always have a CO2 detector at a minimum. Ventless heaters are nothing new. Maybe 150 years now.
Please help me my gas heater is the same as in the video the pilot lights up but when I turn the ignition button it does not turn on I am freezing without light in Crosby tx
So sorry to hear that! I have several close friends in Texas who are without power and heat and have burst pipes. It’s terrible. The problem may be with the thermostat. Did you try turning it all the way up? Sometimes the surrounding air isn’t cold enough, although that’s rare. If that’s not it, it may be a loose wire in the heater or possibly a faulty gas valve, but that would best be fixed by a qualified technician. Is it natural gas or propane? That will determine who you’d need to come look at it if you can’t get it fixed, as well as how quickly it could get done. Either way, best of luck! I feel for you and hope all of you down there get your power restored SOON!
I have a propane gas ventless wall heater. It sputters and kinda flames up when on high. Any idea why it’s doing this? I hardly ever put it on high nut it’s going down to 27 tonight. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Sounds like it may be set up for natural gas instead of propane. Or just the opposite. I am thinking you fuel source is the problem. Also keep a window cracked so that it can get fresh oxygen.
Unless there’s a problem, the burners will only ignite if the control knob is set high enough. If you’re asking if it’s ok to leave the pilot lit at all times, it is.
Heyyyy! My unit is very similar I read that the igniter KNOB has a AAA Battery inside the knob. I cant find any information on how to remove the knob off. Do you know how to take the knob off this unit to replace the battery???
yes dont run the heater that turns its self on and OFF for more than a few hours at a time, been using one for primary heat now for over 5 years and have yet to turn it off because of it burning up all my oxygen. it might run a few hours a day turning its self off and on, 30,000 BTU. Setting 1: 60.8 F Setting 2: 75.2 F Setting 3: 89.6 F Setting 4: 104.0 F Setting 5: 118.4 F, on setting 1 i get 30+/- days out of 100lbs of propane "800sqft" (depends on size of your home). sure 60 is cool but with a sweater on its more than fine.
@Hill Property Inspections So can these be used as a primary source of heat? Do they always have to be attended? My in-laws are considering the 30k btu LP version for a primary source in thier mobile home.
Technically it could be, depending on the regulations in your area and the size of the space (these aren’t designed for real large areas), although a mobile home typically isn’t very big. In general, though, they’re definitely best used for supplemental heating and not as a primary heat source.
And for every hundred pounds of propane they put out a gallon of water doesn't sound like a lot but it will ruin crawl spaces and create mold in wall insulation
I use them for primary heat. I have a two story one hundred year old house. It is quite drafty. I use natural gas. I turn mine off except for the pilot light when I go to work. I have four of them, and thinking of hooking up another one.
I had one of these heaters in my house. Never used it but now I would like to. I looked everywhere on the heater to try to find out if it's propane or natural gas but there is nothing. Is there any way to find out ?
I am not a licensed HVAC tech, but if it is propane, you will have a cigar-shaped propane tank somewhere on your property. Propane tanks are common in the rural areas of North America. Generally, you will find natural gas in the urban/suburban areas. If you have natural gas, you will have a standalone gas meter somewhere on your property. It would be strange to have both. If you can’t find either, see if you can see a pilot light in your heater. If not and the unit is plugged in, you may have an all electric (i.e. not gas) unit. You could also internet research the model number of your unit.
@@Doriesep6622 If they have a large propane tank, it could take a while before they have to buy more. I would think a walk around the property would identify the source. I would start my walk on the outside of the wall where their heater is and trace the pipe to its source. Also, there may be a spec plate on the unit that lists what it uses.
You likely wouldn’t have a problem running it for only an hour a day. They put off a good bit of moisture, though, so going with a direct vent unit would probably be a better option for a garage - especially if you store tools in it.
Can u please tell me if all gas heater have thermostat. I bought an older Rainni Tropic REH-30DT-P . To turn it on or off it dont have numbers on the nob it is turn to high or low. I am trying to understand if flame will out at any time or it will stay light all the time that it is on. Thanks for ur help
I had one in my travel trailer and it worked great. I just left a roof vent or window open a inch or so and also made sure nothing was piled in front of it when lit. It also got me by on 1/4 of the propane the furnace would have used.
*This text doesn't make sense to me, especially after the "comma".* I don't understand it and therefore i still don't know what to do and what not to do: "you do push and hold to light the pilot, but you do NOT hold in for a while before pushing the ignition button."
You just need to be sure to push the ignition button right as you push in on the other knob. That’s because the knob feeds gas to the pilot and you don’t want a bunch of unburnt gas pouring out. The ignition creates a spark to quickly lite the gas, and that’s what you want.
@@HillPropertyInspections Thanks a lot, now i understood it. Unfortunately the manual of my heater is writter in a terrible way. The problem that lead me to your video is that the pilot-fire (or better "ignition fire?" is "turning off" again and again.
It often takes several pushes of the ignition button to get the pilot lit. And even after it’s lit you may have to hold down the control knob for quite a while before it stays lit on its own - especially if it hasn’t been run for a while. It needs to build up enough heat.
You could, but that sort of defeats the purpose. It works better to run it briefly and to crack a window for a short time. If the space is big enough and you don’t run the heater too long, you may not need to crack a window open.
If nearby venting through the wall for oxygen like a window was unavailable could a guy install a small vent similar to what is used in a sauna ? Also would it be best above or below the heater?
Ive used these heaters as a main source of heat for years. Honestly venting is not a huge deal of your heater is slightly oversized for the space being heated. It will warm things up so well that you will end up turning it off. That being said, i live in north east texas, and everyone saw what happened to us last winter! There are many texans who would have killed to have these heaters earlier this year.
I live in the western US. I used a 5 burner radiant version like this. I used this for about 15 years until we moved. I loved and miss it. Air here is very dry and the moisture from it helped me breathe. We used it in our basement and it would keep the basement perfect and until middle December it was our go to because all of the heat it generated went into the house. We used the furnace after that as a backup. I checked the heater with a gas detector several times and it didn't register any CO. The house was built in the '40's so it wasn't sealed as tight as they are now. The main area of concern with these is the by product of combustion being water vapor. So you want to be aware of the increased humidity from that. I now have a ventless flueless fireplace in my motor coach and love it as well. Good luck. I'm not an endorser or expert simply relating my experience with these heaters. Hope,this helps.
Thank you for taking the time to tell this great information.
I use a 5 plaque propane heater from Martin Industries
I have been using a natural gas ventless heater for the last sixteen years. My house built circa 1890 and it leaks air like a sieve. I have had absolutely no problem with CO at all I have a detector within three or four feet of the heater. My main unit is a 30,000 BTU heater with a fan, I use it during the daytime to heat the lower rear of the house. I also have a 20,000 btu unit with no fan to heat the living room in the evening. At night I let the house furnace do it's job, but I have it set for only 60 degrees fahrenheit.
Yes these are great for homes with no duct work and older homes.
I just bought a house with one of these. It’s 30 years old and still working fine.
My late wife was a Mississippi girl, and these are commonly used there in place of a traditional furnace. They put out amazing heat, and I loved their low maintenance feature - no moving parts, so very little to go wrong with them. I have a Little Buddy for back here in the bedroom in the event of a power failure or some other SHTF scenario; it is an amazing little heater - same thing on a propane canister. It takes the chill off the air beautifully.
Same here I had central heat and air for years and it was costing me a fortune to keep it going every year. I have natural gas and installed one of these and I love it. I put a air conditioner window unit it in and I am done. I would never go back to having central heat and air again. Oh I’ve read in the comments here that these heaters cause condensation and mold but I had the same amount when I had central heat and air. Old people have for years and still use the ventless gas space heaters which is the same thing. I have the same heater that is in this video and it got us through the cold spell here in Texas last week. I had heat when people with central heat didn’t. Mississippi women are the best. They know how to cook some good food.
@@JohnDavis-yz9nq Using a dehumidfier cancels out any humidity these heaters put out. I love mine too.
@@leodannyportal I had problems with the pilot light going out. Did the maintenance cleaning and still had a problem but less frequent. I got to thinking the oxygen sensor was my problem. I cracked a window about an inch and have not had to relight the heater since. My apartment in my metal building is very well insulated and tight and the heater was not getting enough fresh air. Keep that in mind. I will try the dehumidifier. Thanks for the tip.
Which ones are ok for use in a bedroom? I saw a warning that one was not for a bedroom.
I gather that: I need a dehumidifier, and I need a CO detector, and I should only run it for a few hours at a time.
@@yamspaine
Quick tips:
•if it says don’t use in a bedroom, don’t
•circulation is key to getting it to all rooms. (Ceiling fans drawing up towards ceiling, tall fan pointed down the hall, and transfer fans above bedroom doors all help)
•crack a window if it’s ventless
I’m by no means an expert. My house currently has one of these (ventless) to heat the whole house. I’ve used them besides that over the years, as well.
Don’t put them in bedrooms if they say not to. Unless you got a hole in your exterior wall big enough to throw a dog through, something that says not for bedroom use is much too powerful for a bedroom. I’m not someone who likes to follow rules, but they’re only saving you from yourself when they say that.
My 3 burner propane heater is rated for 800 sqft. My house is 1500ish. I’m usually heating about 1100, and i only really have to turn all 3 burners on when it gets down in the 20s. Bear in mind, i have an old and drafty house. I also love my house to be very warm.
So my guess is that the sqft they rate for is accounting for the fact you’ll have some source of fresh air but at least halfway decently insulated walls & windows.
Leave a window cracked bc oxygen displacement can kill. Carbon monoxide shouldn’t be an issue if the unit is running right, but the ventless will always cause oxygen displacement.
You and your flame need oxygen to survive, so it actually heats the room better with fresh air coming in,
I've had one running in my garage every winter for 20 yrs without any failures.
Our furnace went bad in our small house approximately 10 years ago. They wanted a fortune to replace in the January cold..15 degrees to - 15 degrees. We had no choice but to use our natural gas kitchen stove top burners to stay warm. We had co2 detectors. Heated for 3 months that way . Just relating our story.
I used a small tube through wall with a ball valve to bring outside air to the unit. This allows a controlled air leak from outside to supply some air, when not using I would turn valve off to shut off air leak. Found this better than cracking a window to allow air in as the air pipe was next to the unit and any extra air was heated immediately. I used these in very airtight green houses where they did deplete the oxygen overnight and were out in the mornings. With air pipe there was no problems.
Greenhouse plants benefit from the co2 of course.
@@wadepatton2433 that was my thought, only used up enough oxygen that heat went out. Earth berms but still lost crop, had to start over. Didn't think 40 foot greenhouse would deplete. Made it to tight.
Exactly what I was thinking of installing.
I would suggest that you do not burn candles while using this appliance. If you do, you will produce a black oily substance that will get all over your house and in your lungs. It sneaks up in you so, just something to keep in mind.
These appliances generally use room air to mix with the gas to burn. If that air has lots of particles in it, whether dust, vaporized wax, air fresheners, etc, it will combust as well and come out as something unpleasant.
Underrated comment
This is my issue with these heaters. If you spray any kind of aerosols, kick up dust, use cleaners or chemicals, they will find their way to the heater and burn, producing nasty unpleasant smells and probably a soup of toxic fumes from the combustion. Outside of that they do work well I have one I keep for backup heat in an emergency.
Thank u for info.
I almost passed out last night because our ventless heater was running for 4 days/nights straight. Weird thing is that the guy that installed the Jolt 3 classic ventless heater told us we can run it forever and not worry about anything.
Update as of winter 2022-2023 We r running our heater second winter now. It seems like it doesn’t need to be shut down. U set the temperature and it’s stays on that temperature. No smell. No poison gasses. This is why it’s called ventless heater.
The smell I have smelled when I wrote that comment is when u just turn on the heater and it starts to smell like rotten eggs. That is normal. Smell goes away after few days.
If you had it on for 4 days it would have killed you before that length of time
@@heknows5418 HAHAH, I can't stop laughing. Very true and funny at the same time.
So no t-stat? Only on or off control?
Many models come with thermostatic control - a control valve with a thermostat sensing bulb - but not all do. I’m not sure, though, if you were asking in general or in response to MJisKING447.
@@HillPropertyInspections Update as of winter 2022-2023 We r running our heater second winter now. It seems like it doesn’t need to be shut down. U set the temperature and it’s stays on that temperature. No smell. No poison gasses. This is why it’s called ventless heater.
The smell I have smelled when I wrote that comment is when u just turn on the heater and it starts to smell like rotten eggs. That is normal. Smell goes away after few days.
Thank you for making this video. I moved into a new rental
Home and it has these heaters in the rooms and the safety tips are also appreciate. I was sitting here freezing until I found this video lol thanks again!
Hooking up to the natural gas system was costing me $60 for the initial visit and $20 a month in fixed costs before I burned one Therm of gas. The gas companies in Georgia got tired of having people jump in and out of the system over the Summer, so, they make people sign a contract for a whole year. When I had the natural gas on, I was spending $100 - $120 before I bought the first bit of fuel to burn. (When they changed to annual contracts, it became $240 base and eliminated a lot of their service calls for hookups.)
My heat pump works great from March to December. It's just those two months in the middle of Winter when I need a little more heat on the really cold nights. I have been getting by with just the heat pump, but after the Texas disaster a few years ago, I decided to have a bullet proof system for super cold weather. A Mr. Heater 30,000 BTU propane heater now sits in my living room and points at the walls where all the plumbing happens to be.
When the temps really plumet, I light up Mr. Heater and burn $4 worth of propane a day to keep the house a toasty 70 F.
When a tree branch takes out the power for the whole neighborhood, I still have heat.
*Remember, gas furnaces require electricity for their fans and igniters. Having natural gas is not enough.
People froze to death in Texas because their electrical system cut out and the blowers and igniters on their furnaces stopped working. Imagine waking up at 4 AM with the house down into the low 40s and no lights!
Propane costs more, but when you factor in the annual gas contract, it's cheaper in the long run to do Propane in my situation. When I move somewhere else, I will take the Propane system with me. (My math teacher is probably looking down from heaven and laughing because I actually used algebra to figure out that Propane was a better choice. I swore I would never need algebra.)
The Mr. Heater 30,000 BTU propane heater with the optional fan cost less than a single year's base connection fee for the natural gas company. After two years, I was way ahead on the total cost. It's nice to not have to worry about freezing in some SHTF scenario. I cycle two 40# propane tanks so I always have a full one. I also welded up a holder that mounts in my trailer hitch receiver for easy external transport of the tanks.
(For some reason, people never tailgate me when I have a large propane tank on the back of my vehicle.) 🤔
Very wise. You’re doing it right!
These units are not only for backup heat. My main source of heat is a ventless fireplace log set. The burners are underneath and between the 'logs'. When I moved to a rural and higher in elevation area it was quite obvious that electric heat was an absolute NO WAY!. Propane heaters, which cycle according to the temperature you set, are the absolute BEST form of heat. The only time I use the 'backup' electric baseboard heat is when I close the door to go to bed at night. The propane is turned down about 6-8 degrees and turned up in the morning or kept lower if I am going to work. However, the best space propane space heater is a 'blue flame' type. The 'red' 'plate' type are a waste of gas. I've been heating my house like this for over 11 years. The only time the CO detector has gone off is when it needed the battery replaced.
Have you had experience with natural gas versus propane? Propane is obviously more readily available in many rural areas, but natural gas is quite a bit cheaper and provides a steady supply that, unlike propane, doesn’t have to be delivered.
I looked into these about 10 years ago. In the States, they were very affordable, and seemed safe with the low oxygen sensor, etc. They were not allowed in Canada, and I worried about my house insurance. I should do further research, as it now appears I can use these in Canada, but the price is about 10X higher than before.
I have that exact same heater in my wood shop. Does a very good job considering the space, especially during cooler but not real cold weather. I have a 150k btu salamander style heater for when it gets really cold. Mine has the fan which definitely helps.
I just put one of these in our home, I put it in the coldest room in the house, our master bathroom, and this is important when I burn this heater I turn on the bathroom fan as to take out any fumes. The only complaint I have is you must buy hoses and other things, a lot of this don't come with the heater, (gas lines and fittings). I bet they sell a lot of these.
Absolutely love my radiant ventless in my basement. The smartest heater purchase I have ever made.
What kind and size do you have?
I have various sizes for backup in my own home, but the one in the video is 30,000 BTU I think.
@@sixpackbinky I have a 30,000 in basement and it literally heats the whole house, my main heat shuts off and temperature rises through convection.
💯
Thinking about getting one for the 12x16 cabin I'm building.
I just purchased 3 of them from home depot for 62.50 each
Great advice....Thanks for the info looking for one to buy for this winter.
Great video, thank you! Why do you suggest only using the heater for a couple of hours?
I have this exact model on propane.
Works like a charm...this one does
not have a internal fan
With wall heaters like theses, the terms "vent-less" or "direct-vent" are not referring to where the combustion air is coming from, but rather where the combustion by-products go (CO2 and water vapor for a properly burning heater). "Vent-less" wall heaters discharge combustion by-products into the room or area where the heater is installed. The burners on your gas stove are a form of vent-less heater. "Direct-vent" wall heaters discharge (vent) the combustion by-products outdoors "directly" through the wall on which they are mounted. As opposed to being piped to an existing chimney.
Direct vent systems are a sealed system and they’re taking exhaust 100 percent to the outside and taking fresh air from the outside as well.
Unlike a direct vent appliance, a B-vent appliance isn’t a sealed system, so it draws combustion air from the room into the combustion chamber. Exhaust then goes out through the roof via a single double-wall pipe, the outer layer of which acts as a heat insulator.
I have a 5 panel version of this heater and it is very oxygen sensitive. If I have my bathroom vent fan on hi with the door open it will move enough air to shut the heater down. Love the thing
Ventless units not only get air from inside the living spaces - they also vent combustion byproducts into the living space. If the oxygen depletion sensor malfunctions they may pose a serious safety issue. The manufacturers operation instructions generally say they should be operated with a nearby window cracked open. They also generate a lot of water vapor in normal operation. So condensation on interior walls and windows is often seen.
Some areas (California for sure) do not allow them. The CA Mechanical Code 916 (room Heaters) says: Ventless heaters are "not allowed to be sold, installed or permitted to exist." in residential occupancies. I am a CA home inspector and see them occasionally. I'd assume people are getting them in via online sources as no supplier in CA can legally sell them, let alone install them.
In areas using the International residential code fuel gas section (much of the US), they may be allowed but maybe limited as to: the maximum BTU input rating allowed (40,000 BTU's), require a minimum room volume (see IRC 2406), etc. See IRC 2445 Unvented Room Heaters. Just an FYI
Yes, all very true. They’re very common (and not prohibited) in our area, so it’s good for people to at least know how they operate and how to safely use them IF they own or plan to have them.
I have one and I love it. Keeping a window cracked open and using ceiling fans is the key. I had central heat for years and I had just as much condensation as with this. Plus I don’t have the expense of keeping the central heat unit going. Got us through the cold spell here in Texas last week. We had heat when people with central heat didn’t.
What is allowed in California that is one restricted place I could never live in I thought this was a free country
That’s because Cali does everything it can to discourage cheap and reasonable heat.
Can you do a video on the fan blower and whether or not is necessary on radiant heater and if I should get one installed just to keep the unit cooler???
these are great ive had one for 12 years great for backup and lot more comfort then gas forced air!
I have that exact same heater, the only downside is that each block will produce 1 oz of water per hour, so that 15,000 btu heater will produce 3 oz of extra moister in your home ever hour used!
Perfect, I got a pot of water on the gas range simmering in the winter always because it's so dry!
I’m a HVAC Contractor and I have customers asking me to install these units for them.
So for Natural Gas, it releases Carbon Monoxide into the air space around it.... hmmm. Not sure what the engineers were thinking on this one. Anything that burns a gas should be vented outside. Even gas stove tops are supposed to have a vented hood to outside. The same for gas furnaces and gas waters heaters. Not sure how they managed to pass this off as a ventless gas heater that is safe... please advise, because I’d love to know more about how these work.
Good point. Some states prohibit these altogether or at least limit their size (BTU output) for smaller spaces like bedrooms. Most have built-in CO and oxygen depletion sensors to kill the pilot if unsafe levels are detected, but those can obviously fail over time. The best solution is simply to keep smoke and CO detectors (separate, not combined) near the heater and to check them at least monthly. Also, the heater shouldn’t be run for periods longer than a couple hours at a time, and it’s a good idea to briefly open a window to allow in some fresh air to replenish oxygen levels. These are really intended to be backup units, not whole-house heating systems. As long as they’re used properly and basic safety precautions are observed, they usually serve their purpose well.
These can be dangerous.... I agree with comment above. Check carbon monoxide reading when in operation.. use a meter that detects ppm..
Yes I have this as a source of heat in a loft area, put up a CO2 detector, took all of 2 mins before it started going crazy! Bummer because it does warm up fast!
I have had one of these in my house for several years and I love it. Unlike central heat not much to go wrong. Keep a window cracked open and all will be fine. My carbon monoxide detector as never went off. We use ceiling fans too.
Youre not a very good contractor then since these dont put out CO unless there is a lack of air. I have run one for 20 years and never had a problem. Every classroom i was in as a kid has a ventless gas heater on the wall and several apartments as well. CO fearmongering is absurd.
I'm trying to decide the best one (brand) to buy! I mainly want it for when electricity goes off. Sometimes here it can be off as long as four hours in the winter. Gets way too cold!
The heater in the video is an Empire and it’s a pretty good, reliable brand.
@@HillPropertyInspections Mr. Heater, little buddy heaters are great.
Very helpful. Of course my thoughts are heating my tiny cottage I would leave the thing on for more than 2 hour stretches. Otherwise whats the point? You get yourself warmed up and then have to freeze again. So my thinking is that I would crack open a window a bit just to provide some fresh oxygen. I have heard that others do that as well. Would appreciate some input on this.
That’s exactly what we always recommend, so you’re spot-on!
@@HillPropertyInspections even with cleaning with air around the valve I have to re light mine often. I have a carbon monoxide detector and it has never went off. I haven’t cracked a window but I am going to do so. I am thinking that might solve my problem. Otherwise I love this heater. I had central heat for years and it was costing me a fortune to keep it going. It got us through the Texas cold spell last week. Very nice video. Mine is almost the exact same one in the video. It is a Williams that I bought at Home Depot. Can you do a video on maintenance?
@@JohnDavis-yz9nq Spiders love to build a web in the pilots of these over the summer. My understanding is that they are attracted to the fragrance they add to natural gas. In any event, if the pilot wont stay lit, open the housing and spray out the pilot with canned air. I take the line off the pilot but that may not be necessary. I have to do this every year or two with mine.
@@djcanfield1 I just leave my pilot light going during the summer. It does not put off that much heat. I guess I should turn it completely off. I still go into it and clean it with air before I start using it. Even with cleaning twice back to back it would go off during really cold weather. Then I cracked a window open and that solved my problem. My apartment in my metal building is very tight with insulation and I think the heater was depleting the oxygen and it was automatically shutting down. But yes cleaning it is important too. When it was shutting down I originally thought that I must have been missing something in the cleaning process. But now I am convinced the low oxygen sensor was shutting the heater off. It hasn’t shut itself off since early February. I am convinced that theses ventless heaters need some sort of a fresh air intake and cracking a window open about two inches was the easiest way out for me. If yours starts shutting down keep the cracked window in mind. Thanks for the information. I was not aware that spiders liked the smell of the fragrance in natural gas.
@@JohnDavis-yz9nq what a waste
I have this in my basement “sports den” warms up nice. But we only use it as needed, turn off the pilot and gas valve when not in use, be smart. For heating a room for a football game it’s great, but I would not use this as a main heating source. BTW these are not allowed to be sold in NH.
FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO KNOW THIS IS AN EMPIRE BRAND HEATER
I have almost the same one and it is a Williams. Home Depot. I love it except I have to re light it often.
@@TheRealCheckmate yes I agree. But let me tell you something. I started leaving a window cracked open just a little and I haven’t had to re light the heater in a longtime. I am beginning to think that it was depleting the oxygen in my house and automatically shutting itself off. My house is very tight with insulation.
@@TheRealCheckmate I really think that was my problem with pilot light not staying on. And yes the jet for the pilot does need to be cleaned. I do that once in the beginning of cold weather before I start up the heater. It has been close to a month since I’ve had to relight it. I really am thinking the window open just a little solved my problem. It is a inexpensive heater that has worked well for me. I had central heat and air and it was costing me too much to keep that junk going. I get condensation in the windows with this heater but I had just as much when I had central heat as well. With this one I can work on myself or go get another one easy.
i have one of these heater and i love it for the heat the problem with mine is it does not turn on and off
You have to turn it on and off manually? What model is it?
@@HillPropertyInspections model iwh26mltd-2 I have to turn it on manually
I looked it up and it looks like that model can come with or without a thermostatic control (thermostat sensing bulb). Yours must unfortunately not have one or it would automatically shut off when your set temperature range is met.
@@HillPropertyInspections thank you so much for the information
My brand new dyna glo blue flame works but the burner cycles on and off when it barely reaches 60 degrees. I have the thermostat set on 5. I would think it would stay on until at least 70 degrees. What could be the problem?
I turn the big vented one on in the front room and turn it up and push the heat into the other rooms with a fan. This is a pain. I got a second, small ventless unit for the back of the house. To solve the problems some people in the comments are talking about, can I make a vent over it, and stovepipe it out the chimney hole? My other question is can I make a big square hole in the wall, so it's sort of outdoors and sort of indoors? I can't turn that thing on and go to sleep next to it until I'm 100%
Not so much now but I grew up on them
I have one of these heaters. It worked one week to never work again. It was brand new out of the box. Wish it worked. Don't don't even know who to call to fix it.
Do you have a local propane supplier? If so, they likely do repair work and would be the best place to call.
@@HillPropertyInspections Thank you. I'll have to look into a propane dealer. Great idea. BLESSINGS
I have one of these but when on 3 placards if a breeze hits it, it goes crazy. It makes an awful sound and the placards have flames on and around them. I've stopped using and was wondering what would cause this
We installed a DynaGlo wall propane heater a month ago. It's hooked up to a 250gal propane tank and was installed by the gas company. Our problem is the heater gives off a clorine odor. It's so strong that my husband is getting headaches and we had to shut it off. Any ideas on what is causing this odor? It's not a rotten egg smell, so we dont think it's the gas. Just can't tolerate the chemical smell.
The pilot light on mine is 3 inches long, and the flames are blue and huge; find out it was for natural gas and I connected propane.
Yup, propane has more BTU's and requires a smaller orfice diameter
Hello ( Hill Property Inspections ) Do these units cause MOLD in a residence that are hard to reach , attics, under floor joists, behind cupboards etc ? Just inspected a home that was very molded with no water leaks, but had a ventless heater, We are trying to find the cause of the condensation.
Could be. They do put off quite a bit of moisture in the air. Diagnosing it would really depend on how much mold and other damage there is.
I have one in my house...best thing i ever did...heat when the power goes out..use a wireless fan
I have one of these. And it will not run on low. Has to be on hi or it shuts down. And it’s not old!
The only problem i had with my open flame model was moisture. I am sure this one does the same. Propane flame produces moisture. So the only way I could use mine was with a dehumidifier. So just be aware. Great heaters but also watch the humidity levels as well.
Yes, moisture is a byproduct of combustion and is definitively high with ventless gas heaters.
leave door to other rooms open to get more air... fans to move the air around. 20" box fan on top of unit to blow heat/fumes around and heat up more area or heat goes straight to ceiling. ceiling fan blowing down is good. box fans are cheap and easy to move. i drilled a 3/8" hole in the top of my heater and same hole in the bottom of 20" box fan so can mount it to the top of the heater to blow heat/fumes around. works grreat in 10' high ceilings. the ceiling doesnt need any heat. condensation is a problem though on COLD surfaces= mold...that wipes off easily with basic bathroom cleaner /clorox stuff . 99.9% efficient heaters, but got to be ... smarter than the heater and NOT SUPPOSED TO USE IT IN BEDROOMS OR BATHROOMS (confined places/where sleep) as .... go to sleep... forever.
SOS - I have one of these heaters and the pilot flame is burning yellow and about a 1 inch high I don’t think that’s normal any way to adjust the flame very concerned
I’m looking for one in a primary not actually a wall unit with propane. Do they still exist?
My heater has 5 bricks 2 of them want go from the blue flame to the red orange glow, what's causing this I'm using more gas like this...
I've got mine turned to medium. Left side is glowing orange but the middle one is still a blue flame all over it. Is that ok?
I just installed this to natural gas and wasn't getting any gas to the pilot I took the front off and there's a set screw that was screwed the whole way in when you run these to ng do you have to adjust the set screw to work
nice work
I've used this type heart for several years in my kitchen for
When the weather is extremely cold. My issue is I've been using grill size propane tank and it is not as efficient as I think it can be
Would using a larger tank be better ? What would you suggest ?
The positive about the small tank is the fact I can carry it myself to be refilled. Last year is cost $15. Help please. Thank you...
Not heart...heater ... lol
Most vent free heaters require a minimum 100 lb tank size, and a two stage regulator, to provide fuel to the unit.
please explain where the oxygen depletion sensor is,how it works,etc. i always thought it was some hi-tech something?...thanks
if you keep it on low and have a 100 lb tank how long would the propane last
3000 years
@@fgonzalez78959hahaha
maybe you can help out my wall heater.. 2 brick when th ebricks attempt to light and become red via thermostat th eflame seems to dance around and not staying with the bricks and they do not light correcty giving off unburned gas siggestions to fix?
What would happen if the pilot light blows out ? Would it continue to blow gas in the house
if it has a detector for that then yes if not then no (you should turn it off either way if it does happen)
Well if you should only use for a couple hours what do you do at night? Freeze?
Just wait a short amount of time and run it again.
@@HillPropertyInspections Run 2 hours then shut off and let rest for 1 hour and then repeat?
That would likely work fine, but waiting a whole hour probably wouldn’t be necessary in most cases.
Would the thermostat turning it on and off be ok thru the night?
@@HillPropertyInspections is there a timer on it so it can turn on and off itself?
i have a 5 burner ceramic wall floor mount 30k btu, i keep getting carbon monoxide readings that go from 0 and climb to 15 all over the room which is fairly airtight but not totally and about 25 by 60 feet and open with 10 foot ceilings.
i just aired it out again, placed a fan about 10 feet in front of the stove to blow a small bit of room air into it to see if th is helps. i see no air adjustment on it. it has the standard off pilot on with varying temperatures to select by spinning the knob, each ceramic grid has its own propane tube. the ceramic start blue when cold and go red within 3 minutes.
Have you gotten any readings higher than the 15 ppm you mentioned? If I remember correctly, most CO alarms won’t go off until levels have been 50 ppm for 8 hours, and the times decrease as the levels increase. So 15 may not even set off alarms and wouldn’t typically be in a concerning range. 400 ppm or more would set it off in a matter of minutes, which is obviously far higher than 15. Very small amounts could be normal, but it’s definitely something worth monitoring.
@@HillPropertyInspections my detector starts at 5, 0, 5 then 6 7 and on up, it is very sensitive and accurate, if u ride the atv with it on, when you stop, the carbon washes over you and the display spikes way up and the alarm goes off, then quickly goes to 0 and stops sounding. it is a smart sensor as8700a
@@HillPropertyInspections i just replaced the heater with a new one, waiting to see what the carbon monoxide does. In any case, the new one has an ODS and the old one didnt, so it was worth it. If I still get CO could it be the regulator provided by the gas co is not correct in its settings ? This one specifically calls for min 11" WC to max 14" low pressure regulator, mr heater part number F276136 or equivalent. Is that something that should already be in the circuit of this 10 year old install ?
@@HillPropertyInspections so the brand new heater has been on about 30 minutes, my carbon monoxide is already back up to 9 which is where it was on install after airing building out, is this being caused by the low pressure regulator installed by the gas provider ? It is a 100 gallon vertical tank.
@@HillPropertyInspections actually it peaked at 9, i had it said at PEAK, it now says 5 as I walk around, so it is half what the old one was making... SO FAR
also, 5 is this sniffers lowest reading, so could be something less than 5
Do they come as vented so they are safer for off grid not electric folks that need it for overnight heating or when I am at work for the dogs and cats....
Yes they do make vented ones in smaller sizes, Empire, Williams and Cozy are most common. Direct vent models vent through a wall, while standard vented models require a metal chimney though the roof. They are a lot more expensive than these ventless models though. Direct vent will vent through the wall, so must be installed on an outside wall. Installing the vent in the wall can be some work depending on how your house is constructed. Keep in mind also that with vented models you won't get 100% of the BTU output listed for the heater since some is lost through the vent. Some Empire and Williams models are only 70-75% efficient. The big advantage with direct vent heaters though is that all your combustion air to the burners comes from outside, and exhausted outside through the same vent opening, no inside room air is being taken.
Can this be used safely with 30# propane tanks??? I just purchased the heater and didn’t realize until I brought it inside that it recommended for a 100# tank 🙄🤦🏻♀️🤔
Any tank size will work… you’d just have to refill it much more often with a smaller tank.
@@HillPropertyInspections thank You so much 👍
I would have one light lit on on my heater it burns halfway up what's the problem
Am I right to take from this that the safety concern has only to do with the flame using up the oxygen in the room? In other words, it is not about gases that the fire gives off? Also, I take it that safety is no better or worse with propane vs. natural gas. Great video! Thanks!
Thanks, I’m glad it was helpful! The main concerns are depleted interior oxygen levels AND possible carbon monoxide and other potentially toxic exhaust gases. With a direct-vent unit that vents outdoors, the oxygen is drawn in from outside and the exhaust gases also go outside. Neither is true with ventless units, although they burn “clean” and don’t produce the same high levels that, say, a furnace or boiler would. Most of these heaters have built-in oxygen depletion sensors and CO detectors, but they’re parts that can fail at any time. That’s why it’s best to not run them for too long and to be sure to keep smoke and CO alarms in the same room. Hope that helps!
Keep a window cracked open a little is you need to do. I have had one in my house for 8 years and I love it. A lot cheaper than central heat. I run ceiling fans too.
@@HillPropertyInspections I understand the concern but very few houses that would be using this type of heater (including both of my living spaces) are tight enough to ever worry about oxygen depletion, that's a scare tactic that would be very likely to ever happen. I use my heater like this 24 hrs a day with no issues whatsoever.
@@larryrobinson7492 Do you open any windows or doors while using your heaters?
@@MrMilanoLau Well No....the point is to heat the room not cool it off. I also have a wood burning stove in here going.. Like I said this isn't a air tight room like you might think. Also my shop is attached to this room and I'm trying to heat it all with a few different heat sources. 40x60 building with 14 ft walls.
What would cause the entire unit to shut down after being on for a period of time? I am not able to light the pilot when this happens but if I wait several hours I can light it and it seems okay until I turn the heater on for a period of time then it shuts down again?
Possibly co2 sensor detecting high co2 levels. Crack a window when operating see if it makes a difference. Also 🙏 get a quality CO2 detector.
My question is where can I find small vented units. I need on for my van. Everywhere I look all I see these crappy unvented units. What happens to the units that function as radiators and did not vent the fumes into the place you are trying to heat. Where can I find these older units.
Sorry, I didn’t completely understand if you’re wanting to find vented or ventless units. I assume vented (direct-vent)?
@@HillPropertyInspections looking for vented units, small inexpensive units for vans, RVs and trailers. Might be use in a 10 by 10 off grid cabin. Sometimes these vented units are referred to as direct-vented meaning to the outside directly through a wall. These use to be quite common in various stights for cheap mobile home heating and are seen allot in third world countries. These units heat sorta like old radiator heaters with simple heat exchangers for both convection and radiant heat. Just don't know how to find these units.
A lot of people say there must be proper ventilation while using this kind of gas heaters. However, they never say clearly what exactly should be done. Do we need to have an ventilation fan running or just a small crack at the window will be good enough?
As long it's outside fresh air either will work.
@@snakepliskinsnake Thanks.
Have this heater in the hallway, the first two bricks are blue, the third one is red, had the heater a few years should I worry?
Have a carbon monoxide detector and keep a window raised
How do I know if my heater is ventless? I have a Rannai propane wall mounted heater - looks similar to this except no manually igniting of a pilot (not sure what turns it on, except an 'on' button. :-). There is a plug - I presume for the blower - but I don't think it would operate at all without electricity.
If it’s vented (AKA direct-vent) it will vent outside through a pipe. If nothing runs outdoors, it’s ventless.
Is there a pipe on your roof ?
@@Doriesep6622 No, but there is a pipe sticking out the side of the house that puffs exhaust when it's running - lol! Duh!! Ha ha ;-)
I have a hearth rite 3 burner on the wall and it's getting pretty warm outside I need to shut it off for the summer do I shut it off at the shut off by the stove than of the top where the control is ????? please help
If it’s like the one in the video, just turn the control knob so that “off” is facing the arrow. The pilot will go out and you’re good. If you want to shut off the gas supply, there should be a valve near the heater. Turning the valve 90 degrees so that it’s perpendicular to the line will shut off the gas.
Too close to the possibility of curtains. 36" is what the manufacturer stressed on. Great Information though
If heater say or used natural gas and i want use propane what i need to do ..is posible or not or just change fitting ?
In most cases you can use natural gas or propane (and convert if necessary), but you’d want to check the model to be sure.
I bought a ritetemp natural gas heater about 15 years ago. New in box. Can you think of ANY reason why this thing is no longer able to be installed?
Does it have an oxygen depletion sensor to measure the oxygen in the air and auto shut down when the oxygen is too low? If not, this is probably why the heater would not be able to be installed.
My propane company will let me install my own fireplace and then they just have to come and check for leaks afterwards.
Are the burners supposed to stay on once they light, or do they cycle on and off to regulate temperature? I just moved into an apartment that has these as the sole source of heat, and mine ran fine for a bit then turned off. The pilot light still looks fine and I can't find anywhere whether this is what is supposed to happen or not.
its doing its job just set it and forget it
Yes, they will cycle on and off to regulate the temperature.
Can u get just one of the cells to light?
Not normally, but sometimes a placard or two goes bad. But you can control the desired heat output with the control knob. It isn’t perfect, but a lower setting will cause it to ignite and go out more often.
You can open a window up a little bit and get fresh air in your house the same thing with kerosene heater
Good point about kerosene heat.
I need a wall heater that will cycle on and off by itself with electric spark ignition ( no standing pilot)
On Amazon there is one that’s propane and one that’s natural gas. Which one should I get?
Natural gas IF you have a supply at your house. If not, you’d have to use a propane unit since propane can be delivered.
@@HillPropertyInspections yes i have a gas supply.. I guess I’ll get both because my garage is detached and would like one for it
Is this the same as a catalytic heater?. I have the wave 3 .
I gave a Williams one very similar to this, but it only worked for a short time. It won't stay lit. I can't find anyone that will work on them. Any ideas on that? How much are the newer ones? Thanks!
When did you get the Williams one?Does it have the Oxygen sensor on it?
@@wvproud7690 2011.
I have no idea about the sensor. Where would that be?
I paid about 300 for mine 30,000btu Hearthrite brand..they say Mister Heater is another good one
@@wvproud7690 Thanks! I'll check them out.
sounds like it needs a good cleaning. I take mine to the hardware store
are these safe to leave on overnight? bought an old house, it only has these and i just replaced the old ones with new ones but have never used gas before.. google says to only run it for 4 hours and never overnight but its -22°f outside right now and these are keeping us warm right now.. kinda scared to go to sleep. also when not in use are you supposed to leave the pilot lit or just shut it off? i dont understand the purpose of the pilot if not to be kept on other than to light the whole thing.
If you live in a modern air tight home you might need to crack a window to allow fresh air in. Older homes with mo or little insulation maybe not so much. Should always have a CO2 detector at a minimum. Ventless heaters are nothing new. Maybe 150 years now.
Please help me my gas heater is the same as in the video the pilot lights up but when I turn the ignition button it does not turn on I am freezing without light in Crosby tx
So sorry to hear that! I have several close friends in Texas who are without power and heat and have burst pipes. It’s terrible. The problem may be with the thermostat. Did you try turning it all the way up? Sometimes the surrounding air isn’t cold enough, although that’s rare. If that’s not it, it may be a loose wire in the heater or possibly a faulty gas valve, but that would best be fixed by a qualified technician. Is it natural gas or propane? That will determine who you’d need to come look at it if you can’t get it fixed, as well as how quickly it could get done. Either way, best of luck! I feel for you and hope all of you down there get your power restored SOON!
I have a propane gas ventless wall heater. It sputters and kinda flames up when on high. Any idea why it’s doing this? I hardly ever put it on high nut it’s going down to 27 tonight. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Sounds like it may be set up for natural gas instead of propane. Or just the opposite. I am thinking you fuel source is the problem. Also keep a window cracked so that it can get fresh oxygen.
What if the burners don’t ignite, but the pilot is lit constantly?
Unless there’s a problem, the burners will only ignite if the control knob is set high enough. If you’re asking if it’s ok to leave the pilot lit at all times, it is.
Heyyyy! My unit is very similar I read that the igniter KNOB has a AAA Battery inside the knob.
I cant find any information on how to remove the knob off. Do you know how to take the knob off this unit to replace the battery???
Unscrew the top....
I don’t think it does have a battery. Your owners manual should tell you.
Unscrew it
yes dont run the heater that turns its self on and OFF for more than a few hours at a time, been using one for primary heat now for over 5 years and have yet to turn it off because of it burning up all my oxygen. it might run a few hours a day turning its self off and on, 30,000 BTU. Setting 1: 60.8 F Setting 2: 75.2 F Setting 3: 89.6 F Setting 4: 104.0 F Setting 5: 118.4 F, on setting 1 i get 30+/- days out of 100lbs of propane "800sqft" (depends on size of your home). sure 60 is cool but with a sweater on its more than fine.
@Hill Property Inspections So can these be used as a primary source of heat? Do they always have to be attended? My in-laws are considering the 30k btu LP version for a primary source in thier mobile home.
Technically it could be, depending on the regulations in your area and the size of the space (these aren’t designed for real large areas), although a mobile home typically isn’t very big. In general, though, they’re definitely best used for supplemental heating and not as a primary heat source.
And for every hundred pounds of propane they put out a gallon of water doesn't sound like a lot but it will ruin crawl spaces and create mold in wall insulation
I use them for primary heat. I have a two story one hundred year old house. It is quite drafty. I use natural gas. I turn mine off except for the pilot light when I go to work. I have four of them, and thinking of hooking up another one.
I had one of these heaters in my house. Never used it but now I would like to. I looked everywhere on the heater to try to find out if it's propane or natural gas but there is nothing. Is there any way to find out ?
I am not a licensed HVAC tech, but if it is propane, you will have a cigar-shaped propane tank somewhere on your property. Propane tanks are common in the rural areas of North America. Generally, you will find natural gas in the urban/suburban areas. If you have natural gas, you will have a standalone gas meter somewhere on your property. It would be strange to have both. If you can’t find either, see if you can see a pilot light in your heater. If not and the unit is plugged in, you may have an all electric (i.e. not gas) unit. You could also internet research the model number of your unit.
@@Around_The_Home wouldn't he be running out of propane and have to buy more? That should be a clue
@@Doriesep6622 If they have a large propane tank, it could take a while before they have to buy more. I would think a walk around the property would identify the source. I would start my walk on the outside of the wall where their heater is and trace the pipe to its source. Also, there may be a spec plate on the unit that lists what it uses.
What is the Heater Brand ?? Thanks
I don’t know because it was at a house we inspected. But Empire is a pretty popular American-made brand.
would this be ok to run in a 2 car garage for an hour a day for the winter
You likely wouldn’t have a problem running it for only an hour a day. They put off a good bit of moisture, though, so going with a direct vent unit would probably be a better option for a garage - especially if you store tools in it.
Can u please tell me if all gas heater have thermostat. I bought an older Rainni Tropic REH-30DT-P . To turn it on or off it dont have numbers on the nob it is turn to high or low. I am trying to understand if flame will out at any time or it will stay light all the time that it is on. Thanks for ur help
Sounds like it's on or off model.
Would they work in a 5 wheel camper? For stan by heat ?
I had one in my travel trailer and it worked great. I just left a roof vent or window open a inch or so and also made sure nothing was piled in front of it when lit. It also got me by on 1/4 of the propane the furnace would have used.
What’s the name of this unit?
my home has the smallest unit -- 6000 BTU 1.8 Kw. usage is 2 USD per 15 hours on. remember to crack open a window for safety....
I have a heater like that but nowhere on it does it say if its NG or LP so therefore I can’t hook it up.
Some are both but use different fittings.
@@Doriesep6622
I did not know that.
*This text doesn't make sense to me, especially after the "comma".* I don't understand it and therefore i still don't know what to do and what not to do: "you do push and hold to light the pilot, but you do NOT hold in for a while before pushing the ignition button."
You just need to be sure to push the ignition button right as you push in on the other knob. That’s because the knob feeds gas to the pilot and you don’t want a bunch of unburnt gas pouring out. The ignition creates a spark to quickly lite the gas, and that’s what you want.
@@HillPropertyInspections Thanks a lot, now i understood it. Unfortunately the manual of my heater is writter in a terrible way. The problem that lead me to your video is that the pilot-fire (or better "ignition fire?" is "turning off" again and again.
where the propane come from?
After I turned it off it was very hard to turn on. How do I turn it on?
It often takes several pushes of the ignition button to get the pilot lit. And even after it’s lit you may have to hold down the control knob for quite a while before it stays lit on its own - especially if it hasn’t been run for a while. It needs to build up enough heat.
What about craking a window while running it?
You could, but that sort of defeats the purpose. It works better to run it briefly and to crack a window for a short time. If the space is big enough and you don’t run the heater too long, you may not need to crack a window open.
Any way to put a Wall Thermastat on it?
Don't think so.
If nearby venting through the wall for oxygen like a window was unavailable could a guy install a small vent similar to what is used in a sauna ? Also would it be best above or below the heater?
Ive used these heaters as a main source of heat for years. Honestly venting is not a huge deal of your heater is slightly oversized for the space being heated. It will warm things up so well that you will end up turning it off. That being said, i live in north east texas, and everyone saw what happened to us last winter! There are many texans who would have killed to have these heaters earlier this year.
we get pilot on no probn, but then turn dial to setting- nothing
so frustrating
I assume you’re turning the knob to a high enough setting? I’m sure you are, but it never hurts to rule out the most obvious issues first.
What do these units typically cost?
About $400 and up depending on the size and brand.
Small ones as low as one fifty. of course you have to buy hose and fittings.