I know exactly what you mean, if i ever get discouraged about one of my project i just watch one of these videos and im pretty much instantly psyced again
To watch Chris Sharma climbing inspires anyone the desire to climb. His climbing is almost like a dance on the rock. His performance as a climber resembles more an art than a sport.
kinda strange to write that about Sharma. He is a power climber. Going for dynamic power moves keeping his hips further away from the rock. Its a very unique sort of climbing but like a dance sorry quite the opposite. Thats climbers like back then Patrick Edlinger and especially Patrick Berhault to name maybe the most aesthetic of them all but definitely not Sharma.
Im climbing 13.a's now, and bouldering V9, but each grade up in difficulty just is so much harder.... The better I get at climbing, the more I realize that I can't even comprehend how hard 14's and 15's are.. So sick
how long have you been climbing? it ive been climbing for a year and hit max 12c hardest ive tried is 13c but i cant even clean it n doing hard routes on top rope feels like its not genuine
ok...great video...great sharma..very great girl....great song(andreas beats),but I want this song!!!where I can download (for money of course) this song!!!
Saw Progression over the weekend at the Reel Rock Film Tour - fantastic!! As mainly a traditional climber, I was a little bored by the segment about the indoor climbing World Cup whatevers, but Tommy Caldwells new free routes on el Cap more than made up for it. Well done!
alteregoash has given a very good reply about the ratings and explaining how the ratings get harder. Ratings start at Class 1-Class 6. Class 1 is walking on an even surface. Classes 2 and 3 are steeper scrambling with increased exposure and a greater chance of severe injury, but falls are not always fatal. Class 4-involve short steep sections,rope is recommended Class 5-true rock climbing, on vertical or near vertical rock. Unroped falls result in severe injury or death. wikipedia is good info
the song is originally a swedish folksong called "Ack Värmeland, du sköna" It's a tribute to a very beautiful region in Sweden =) very surprising to hear it in a climbing-video
hey guys, i just want to know something. I am a beginning climber, and i just want to know what other gear you need besides a harness, ATC, chalk bag if you go on a climbing trip... oh and HOW DO YOU GET BETTER AT CLIMBING??
@louiejack6 Any chance you know how these climbs are rated? what makes it a 5.15? what's the highest it can be? what defines a hard climb apart from the obvious?
@kostaspaschalis I don't know the name of this particular song, but the melody comes from Värmlandsvisan, a folksong in the county of Värmland, Sweden... where I live. Awesome to find the melody in one of those vids! :)
@brownkv081 The camera crew do not climb when they film. LIke 1brownhill said they rap (abseil down) to the desired part of the climb to film. There are very few if any guys that can climb Chris's climbs, many of his first ascents remain unrepeated.
First redpoint ascent. He's worked the route many times before, and he put the draws up there as he was working it. I'm sure he bolted the route as well, and he could have just hung the draws when he was bolting. Or he rapped in and placed them on rappel. There's a few options.
@TheMegaAK Other climbers, or the climber that is climbing the route will rappel down from the top and drill holes in the rock and fill them with bolts. In addition, on many very hard routes, what some consider to be "projects", people leave the draws up because it is too hard to take the time to remove the draw from your harness, so they just clip the rope. Many routes were originally bolted in the 80s when areas were being established.
I love the camera angles they get on these holds. Someone told me that watching climbing videos was a good way to improve my technique. Unfortunately I think watching Chris hold something the size of a dime at a 10 degree angle to the wall doesn't really help me much!
What always surprises me from these videos is the camera... I mean how the hell do they do it to follow him from the top of his head? Are they already in the top and they zoom or something?
@The4lbe , Yes they are on the top, but they don't climb the route, they are hanging on ropes, and of course they zoom. They walk by-pass the wall and then they delve above him.
Too many climbing videos have loud obnoxious soundtracks. You guys found the perfect balance between some music and some natural sounds. I loved the whining dog. Great video!
The climb is overhanging and there is a fixed rope with either a guy or a remote camera. You can see the rope after Chris falls at 7:01...there is a white rope behind him hanging to the ground
(cont. 4) that requires a technique only normally found in 5.12 climbs. Where I climb (Squamish, BC) that makes it a 5.12 climb. Other places have different methods, but it will pump the climb up to a 5.11, probably. So the third answer is the techniques involved (crimping, dynoing, bat-hooks, heel hooks etc.). Some techniques only happen at certain grades. This is a major difference between 5.10 climbs and 5.11 climbs. Your second question is hard to describe. Google "sport route setting".
Chris himself bolted this, I'm pretty sure. He's sponsored by Petzl, so whether or not Chris put the draws (those carabiner things he was clipping into) up himself, I'm not sure. But anybody with a little bit of skill and a lot of time can do it.
Someone probably just repelled down from the top with a drill along the climbing route. it'd be impossible to climb up with the drill and drill out the holes without loosing balance.
No, its called bolting on lead. People will go up with aid and trad gear to hang from small edges that can be used while free climbing. I think this would be too overhanging to do on rap and Chris would catch a lot of shit for that, too.
originally it's a swedish folk song called "Ack Värmeland Du sköna", translated it would be something like "oh beautiful Varmland" (värmland is a county in Sweden)
@morgantheron1 they're called bolts and the way they are set up is a guy with a drill sets up an anchor from the top of the route then just repels or trad climbs (with natural protection) brings a drill and the required amount of bolts then puts the bolts where they should go :0
Sharma goes up the rock using a mechanism on a rope and as he goes up he drills the metal loops to place the quickdraws in beforehand, I think there is a vido of him dong this here but I cant remember the title
@whaaaaateverful its my impression that yelling tightens up your core, and turns your body into 1 single unit, so you can execture a move with all your power
Exactly, each climbing style has its own demands. Sport allows some very hard technical moves, trad allows more exploration but slower going, bouldering allows extremely powerful moves, free climbing (not free solo) allows you the experience of relying solely on unbroken skill to get up a wall and free solo allows an early death for stupid reasons like rocks to the head.
The first question is a hard and valid question. it might take more than one comment to answer. The lowest climbs I know are 5.6s, before that are really just steep hikes. It used to be 5.10 was the hardest grade. So, from 5.6 to 5.9 are just straight numbers. Then people climbed harder than 5.10 so they called those "5.10a" and it went up to "5.10d". Then it turns into 5.11a to 5.11d and so on. I don't know why they stop at d. But what does that mean? So, if you were a 5.6 climber (cont. 1)
I need to start bringing my chalk bag when I watch Sharma climb
thanks to whoever recorded this, cameramen don't get enough credit.
His contact strength with his hands is amazing. When he gets a grip he's so solid.
I know exactly what you mean, if i ever get discouraged about one of my project i just watch one of these videos and im pretty much instantly psyced again
when he says "Mamachichi" (00:32) it can't stop laughing :D it gets everytime..love this guy. pure inspiration
To watch Chris Sharma climbing inspires anyone the desire to climb. His climbing is almost like a dance on the rock. His performance as a climber resembles more an art than a sport.
kinda strange to write that about Sharma. He is a power climber. Going for dynamic power moves keeping his hips further away from the rock. Its a very unique sort of climbing but like a dance sorry quite the opposite. Thats climbers like back then Patrick Edlinger and especially Patrick Berhault to name maybe the most aesthetic of them all but definitely not Sharma.
SaaaaAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAApppppppp
Read it exactly the moment he first SAAAAPED, hilarious.
@@abel2226 ditto..
perhaps the most inspirational song, climber, song, spot I have seen. SO nuts
So graceful! Definitely buying Progression to see the extras!
Im climbing 13.a's now, and bouldering V9, but each grade up in difficulty just is so much harder.... The better I get at climbing, the more I realize that I can't even comprehend how hard 14's and 15's are.. So sick
how long have you been climbing? it ive been climbing for a year and hit max 12c hardest ive tried is 13c but i cant even clean it n doing hard routes on top rope feels like its not genuine
I watch this every day.
The music in such genius way fits the film that it almost made me cry :) Great vid!!!
It is Vermland from AndreasBeats
Man that was just beautiful! Just amazing!
Um dos melhores escaladores esportivos do mundo,sem sombra de dúvida!Parabéns!!!
My hands were sweating, while watching him climb!
Very cool. none the less!
Sharma will go down as the Michael Jordan of rock climbing
They either have a drone or they have a moving track going up the cliff with a camera on it
@@nicklozica8914 why did you wrote this here
ok...great video...great sharma..very great girl....great song(andreas beats),but I want this song!!!where I can download (for money of course) this song!!!
Saw Progression over the weekend at the Reel Rock Film Tour - fantastic!! As mainly a traditional climber, I was a little bored by the segment about the indoor climbing World Cup whatevers, but Tommy Caldwells new free routes on el Cap more than made up for it. Well done!
alteregoash has given a very good reply about the ratings and explaining how the ratings get harder. Ratings start at Class 1-Class 6.
Class 1 is walking on an even surface.
Classes 2 and 3 are steeper scrambling with increased exposure and a greater chance of severe injury, but falls are not always fatal.
Class 4-involve short steep sections,rope is recommended
Class 5-true rock climbing, on vertical or near vertical rock. Unroped falls result in severe injury or death. wikipedia is good info
Chris is my idol and my inspiration. Climb on!
@TheJords11 Actually it's called Ack Värmeland Du Sköna and it is a Swedish folk melody
Indeed, that is the original. The melody is used for this version: th-cam.com/video/c6dDcAaYV58/w-d-xo.html
He's a Ridiculously Dedicated and Skilled Climber (dedication comes before skill)
NinjaBenification skill is a product of dedication, like you said.
The camera is on a pulley system and is controlled from a remote from down on the ground.
im liking the backround music. What is it?
man this guy makes me stop playin sports and stop doin all the other hobbies & interests I have and just rock climb, this stuff looks so sick
impressive, the higher the harder. Chris Sharma is aweesome
Who puts the first safety holds and quick draws in to the side of the mountains?
the song is originally a swedish folksong called "Ack Värmeland, du sköna"
It's a tribute to a very beautiful region in Sweden =) very surprising to hear it in a climbing-video
hey guys, i just want to know something. I am a beginning climber, and i just want to know what other gear you need besides a harness, ATC, chalk bag if you go on a climbing trip... oh and HOW DO YOU GET BETTER AT CLIMBING??
chris is da man !!!! inspires me to keep hitting those walls
@louiejack6 Any chance you know how these climbs are rated? what makes it a 5.15? what's the highest it can be? what defines a hard climb apart from the obvious?
@kostaspaschalis I don't know the name of this particular song, but the melody comes from Värmlandsvisan, a folksong in the county of Värmland, Sweden... where I live. Awesome to find the melody in one of those vids! :)
How is the soundtrack called?? It is perfect for the video
Great song...who is it?
@brownkv081 The camera crew do not climb when they film. LIke 1brownhill said they rap (abseil down) to the desired part of the climb to film. There are very few if any guys that can climb Chris's climbs, many of his first ascents remain unrepeated.
try the bidupproduction website because they have the sound tracks of some of the dvds they sel.l
First redpoint ascent. He's worked the route many times before, and he put the draws up there as he was working it. I'm sure he bolted the route as well, and he could have just hung the draws when he was bolting. Or he rapped in and placed them on rappel. There's a few options.
Even with the Sharma grunt, he makes it look easy. Big up on the fancy footwork!
@TheMegaAK
Other climbers, or the climber that is climbing the route will rappel down from the top and drill holes in the rock and fill them with bolts. In addition, on many very hard routes, what some consider to be "projects", people leave the draws up because it is too hard to take the time to remove the draw from your harness, so they just clip the rope. Many routes were originally bolted in the 80s when areas were being established.
The left hand hold at 6:50 is ridiculous, on an overhang after 100+ meters? No way, I probably couldnt get myself off the ground on this climb
I really like this song, does anyone know where I can find it?
I'd like to see a vdieo of him doing the bolting...
how do those anchors (not sure what the are called) get put in place in the first place?
@deepblue52 I have been looking and i cannot find it! if you'd help me i would be thankfull
if you havent found out yet, its Vermland by AndreasBeats
anyone know how this video was filmed? I can assume the camera is supported from above, but is it on a rope or a pole or something? Just curious.
@louiejack6 I see, so I guess that means that the guys who make the first ascent get to rate the climb?
This cliff got burned right? Forest fire?
@The4lbe they use a ropes system set up so that the photographer/filmer can take a steady shot of his ascent
@Chrobinho they invented a specific toool that is kind of like a drill, its pretty neato
I love the camera angles they get on these holds. Someone told me that watching climbing videos was a good way to improve my technique. Unfortunately I think watching Chris hold something the size of a dime at a 10 degree angle to the wall doesn't really help me much!
My forearms are burning just watching this.
it is a pitty that this song is not on youtube
th-cam.com/video/zk0CqapaoQ8/w-d-xo.html
Full version: th-cam.com/video/c6dDcAaYV58/w-d-xo.html
What always surprises me from these videos is the camera... I mean how the hell do they do it to follow him from the top of his head? Are they already in the top and they zoom or something?
@The4lbe , Yes they are on the top, but they don't climb the route, they are hanging on ropes, and of course they zoom. They walk by-pass the wall and then they delve above him.
He is awesome.
so if he falls does he start over from the beginning of the line or does he just start up where hes at when he falls?
What is this song from 1:00-4:00. I love it.
Vermland, by AndreasBeats
Too many climbing videos have loud obnoxious soundtracks. You guys found the perfect balance between some music and some natural sounds. I loved the whining dog. Great video!
Andreas Beats - Vermland
Thx my dude
how do they bolt those safty things in
vry nice!!!! i need to get back out on the walls
Who is filming this and how did they get that camera angle?
+rengirl94 drone?
+rengirl94 Just a guy hanging on a rope with a camera.
+rengirl94 magic bro
+FLUXplus drone
The climb is overhanging and there is a fixed rope with either a guy or a remote camera. You can see the rope after Chris falls at 7:01...there is a white rope behind him hanging to the ground
(cont. 4) that requires a technique only normally found in 5.12 climbs. Where I climb (Squamish, BC) that makes it a 5.12 climb. Other places have different methods, but it will pump the climb up to a 5.11, probably. So the third answer is the techniques involved (crimping, dynoing, bat-hooks, heel hooks etc.). Some techniques only happen at certain grades. This is a major difference between 5.10 climbs and 5.11 climbs. Your second question is hard to describe. Google "sport route setting".
Does anyone know the Spanish expression they always shout to urge him on? It sounds like "banga Chris!"
"Venga" it approximately translates to "let's go" or "come on"
crazy moves, crazy holds, crazy cool man!!! always motivates me :)
Catalonia is IN Spain
What's the song from 0:12 to 3:00? Anyone know?
It is "Vermland (Feat. Anna-Maria Karlsson)" by AndreasBeats
Thank you so much man :)
Does anybody know what this song is called?
which is the crux of the climb?
@seddancal yeah what is the song called? someone please :O
anybody know the name of the song at the start of the clip?
i'm 15 and i climb 5.12's..is this good enough to compete??
Who was the guy, who did all the security points on the wall? 0.o
Chris himself bolted this, I'm pretty sure. He's sponsored by Petzl, so whether or not Chris put the draws (those carabiner things he was clipping into) up himself, I'm not sure. But anybody with a little bit of skill and a lot of time can do it.
Someone probably just repelled down from the top with a drill along the climbing route. it'd be impossible to climb up with the drill and drill out the holes without loosing balance.
No, its called bolting on lead. People will go up with aid and trad gear to hang from small edges that can be used while free climbing. I think this would be too overhanging to do on rap and Chris would catch a lot of shit for that, too.
Dominic Amend'
Rap bolting was frowned upon in the early 90's. It's well-entrenched itself as one of the more effective ways to clean and bolt a route.
how is the guy filming it? how is he following along?
originally it's a swedish folk song called "Ack Värmeland Du sköna", translated it would be something like "oh beautiful Varmland" (värmland is a county in Sweden)
@morgantheron1 they're called bolts and the way they are set up is a guy with a drill sets up an anchor from the top of the route then just repels or trad climbs (with natural protection) brings a drill and the required amount of bolts then puts the bolts where they should go :0
@The4lbe its usually a crane arm swinging over the side of the cliff
Who sets up the climbing clips and how?
wht's the corresponding european degree? 9a?
What is the name of the song?¿
please explain the relevance of anything you just wrote in your reply to him.
amazing
Sharma goes up the rock using a mechanism on a rope and as he goes up he drills the metal loops to place the quickdraws in beforehand, I think there is a vido of him dong this here but I cant remember the title
How are these routes made if they are 'first accents'? How come there are quickdraws already placed and evrything?
95Mrpaquito because they just go from the top down on a rope and place them.
its vermland by andreas beats you cant buy or download it anywhere that i know of
you can listen to it for free on myspace
what is the song in the begging?
Very nice video :)
@whaaaaateverful its my impression that yelling tightens up your core, and turns your body into 1 single unit, so you can execture a move with all your power
@develupa o.O did you really just diss on him for pre-placing draws on a 9a+??
Exactly, each climbing style has its own demands. Sport allows some very hard technical moves, trad allows more exploration but slower going, bouldering allows extremely powerful moves, free climbing (not free solo) allows you the experience of relying solely on unbroken skill to get up a wall and free solo allows an early death for stupid reasons like rocks to the head.
How does he turn the gravity off ?!
The first question is a hard and valid question. it might take more than one comment to answer. The lowest climbs I know are 5.6s, before that are really just steep hikes. It used to be 5.10 was the hardest grade. So, from 5.6 to 5.9 are just straight numbers. Then people climbed harder than 5.10 so they called those "5.10a" and it went up to "5.10d". Then it turns into 5.11a to 5.11d and so on. I don't know why they stop at d. But what does that mean? So, if you were a 5.6 climber (cont. 1)
we want the song!!!!!!
How do your hands do that O_O
why would you dislike this?
everytime i watch his videos my hands sweat so much haha
name of the song??
still got it chris :D
what is the music?:)