Hands down THE best explanation of how the PCV system on the 2.0TFSI engine works anywhere on TH-cam! I've been wrestling with mine trying to get to the bottom of excessive oil in the intercooler pipes - like half a litre from both after 300 miles! I've changed the PCV valve, changed the cam cover and the turbo and the issue is still there 😭 The only thing I have left to try is a PCV delete with a vented catch can and block the rear PCV intake on the turbo. If this doesn't work, I'm out of solutions 🤷
Kudos. I like how you took the time to give a detailed explanation of how the system works and not just installing the part. I have a GTI and I have never really looked at the PCV system or considered how a turbo car is a different situation than a Naturally aspirated engine. I like your videos keep up the good work..
I often explain to others; there are two types of PCV and two rear vent tubes. The valve in the rear vent tube you showed, pairs with the Rev.-P PCV. There is another rear vent tube with no valve and it pairs with the Rev.-R PCV. Although the Rev.-R PCV will function with either rear vent tube...valved or not. I also do not recommend people delete the PCV if their car is mostly used as a daily. For the losing the benefit of crankcase vacuum. Which helps with sealing at: seals__valve guides__and piston rings. If they are nearly always racing it, and it is in boost most of the time, then go on and delete the PCV; because they are never really utilizing the application of vacuum to the crankcase when racing. I personally feel that the catch-can systems made for these are all wrong for a daily. But when one sometimes sports it. They should instead have left the PCV and added two catch-cans; one spliced into the hose leading to the inlet manifold (perhaps with a one-way valve in its exit to the manifold)...and another spliced in between the rear outlet of the rocker cover and the turbo inlet (replacing the rear vent tube). This would then not delete crankcase vacuum (with a Rev.-R PCV)...and the catch-cans would then filter in both vacuum and boost.
I bought the same ECS hoses myself & I like. The OE pipes were an absolute pain in the ass to remove without destroying them. I use a long skinny flat blade screw driver to reach down through to the bottom hose clamp. It works just fine & you can remove & install the bottom hose with only disconnecting the HPFP wire & some patience.
Wow! Super helpful explanation. Having pcv issues and now I have a plan of attack. On my 3rd pcv in 7k miles, so it's time to investigate more of the system.
Best Audi Tech i know on youtube! you make me feel like i designed the engine myself. thanks for naming every part very clearly so i can order parts online
i like how u explain it bud, even the little things like post it notes on the actual parts your talking about it.. it gives the viewer a better understanding of everything in detail! good on ya bud, thats why im subscribing and because i own a b7 too! i like to support one another!
Thanks Chace, appreciate the feedback and support. I genuinely had a good time learning how the PCV works to make this video because previously I was a little confused about how many after marketing catch can and block off plate solutions worked. Now I get it, but also feel like they're still only half solutions. I think I could do better, which I intend to try in the future.
New subscriber here. Nice detailed explanation of the VAG FSI pcv system! Do you have a video of that engine running? I have a MkV GTI with those ecs hoses I installed. The intake to pcv hose collapsed always under vacuum and expanded under boost with the pcv closed. Does your's do that as well? It eventually failed (metal wire in the hose broke and punctured through the hose) and I just put on the factory hose.
Great video! The primer on the PCV system really helped to explain a lot of things! I've recently pulled the intake to do a walnut media cleaning of the valves - that would have been the ideal time to replace this hose. One correction - at 13:41 you point out the intake temperature sensor but call it the MAP sensor. Just noting as I had to replace the MAP which is on the charge system. Thanks for the video!
thank you so very much, ive suspected how the PCV works for many years (owned a mk6 golf R from brand new 11 years ago), but finally someone to confirm my thoughts, also! i learn more about the Lower PCV Pipe! always thought that was a oil return to crankcase!
Rather than use the ECS Tuning silicone hose (which is a bargain BTW) I used a HPS silicone coupler, 1.0 inch ID by 4 inch long. I found an alternative breather hose that is originally for a VW Jetta 2.0 (part no. 06G131127.) The silicone piece fits nicely on the oil filter housing spigot. I trimmed the latch ring off the VW breather tube and simply inserted it in the open end of the silicone piece. Spring clips are used to secure the ends. Why? Two reasons: 1. easier decoupling of the breather hose. 2. Better access of the banjo bolt on the HPFP. The ESC Tuning silicone hose blocks that access even worse than the original breather hose. The VW hose (slightly smaller diameter) can be routed just slightly forward resulting in clear access to the banjo from below. Best regards and GREAT vid. Haya....
Nice !!! I've watched thousands of a4 b7 vids. About thousands of sensors and leaks and catalytic converters and well you get it. You know your stuff about combustion. Keep on learning me !! ✍🤔
I just did this one and came here to say. Don't waste all of your time screwing around with that lower Norma fitting if you're going to replace it with this ECS hose. Just break them. I used a flathead screwdriver and a 90° hook. Cut the hose at the far corner as it turns towards the rear. Twist and pull and the hose is off. Just that easy! Total replacement time was less than an hour.
Thanks for the video! man was this a pain in the ass lol. sprayed the hose down with silicone spray to help lube it up to get it through the tight spaces.
How much crankcase vacuum do you expect from a normal PCV valve in an VW FSI turbo engine at idle? Is it normal for the oil cap to be pulled down hard, with the engine stumbling and even stalling when the oil cap is removed?
Technically, it's the intake manifold that's providing the vacuum to evacuate the crankcase pressure (same difference, right?) - but at idle, I'd estimate you can expect to see a few InHg of vacuum. And yes, that suction on the oil cap is a good thing and it would stumble when removed.
I have an issue that has been driving me crazy. The hose going into the valve cover between the oil filler cap and raised bevel of the valve cover.... should that have vacuum and what exactly is it for?
would you help me with this? I don't have this hose in my car, and it can be heard that it sucks air into the intake that goes to the booster, I would like to know what its function is, thanks
Would it be bad to block off the Pcv hose to the intake manifold and just run the lower Pcv hose. Ecs sells them on their website and recommends them for a permanent solution to the leaking oem system.
What do you think would be the outcome of just running the ie rear block off and leaving the rest of the system in. I'm mainly trying to stop the oil consumption. Like most I've replaced a lot and done a leak down and just running in circles.
Not a great idea - that rear exit is very necessary when under the most pressure. You'd be building up crankcase pressure basically all times under boost which is a lot of the time. What'd you learn in the leak down? Because if you're eating a lot of oil, I start thinking about leaking valve stem seals, broken/worn rings or otherwise something not regulating or sealing oil properly. But you would have seen leakdown losses from the head in certain ports or out of the oil cap.
Question: I'm about to attempt this install on my Golf R, and I was curious about all the electronics you disconnected. Do those disconnections not affect the car? I can just unplug and re-plug them without worrying about things getting messed up/needing recalibrated/etc?
Can you help me with me seat Leon Cupra MK2. You never got it in the USA but it has the same engine as the mk5 golf GTi. I have a hunting on the cold start and a minor miss fire on idle. I have changed maf pre cat lamber walnut blasted intake valves injectors cleaned with new filter baskets. Coil packs, spark plugs and a new pcv. Please help the video is on my shorts 😞
So I'm replacing the PCV itself, the lower hose as well as the silver breather hose featured earlier in the video. Do you think removing the HPFP would make this a lot easier? I plan on doin the cam follower soon.
Hi Keishi - If you're due for the cam follower, yes, remove the HPFP and save yourself some knuckle room. But removing the pump definitely isn't required. No pressure.
Yeah, it's just the entire valve cover (06D103469N), which is one of the many issues with the B7 system. The PCV valve has metal screws that thread into the valve covers plastic threads. It's really easy to over torque the PCV bolts and strip the holes, creating a loose fitting PCV at the orange gasket.
@@FigureItAudi I just replaced the PCV today on my 2012 Golf R FSI, was going to do the same lower hose as you've done in this video but since its mounted in a transverse orientation in the golfs... the lower connection is nearly impossible to get to without removing the intake manifold. Problem is, I'm still getting the intermittent P0507 and surging idle despite having replaced the PCV. Any ideas?
I see. My guess is that the lower hose doesn't have anything to do with your problem, being that if it's so hard to get to and that it's subject to some cooling in the front of the car, it's unlikely to be damaged and causing any part of that vacuum issue. Since the surge is at idle I also wouldn't blame the rear hose. Have you combed through the intake system and all the intercooler piping? wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16891/P0507/001287. I'm terrible at electrical, but it could be that too.
@@FigureItAudi Yeah I also didn't think it would be one of the hoses but ordered them because I figure might as well if I was in there already. I'm thinking vacuum leak somewhere after the maf.
Great PCV system info. I wish I had seen this video before installing my ECS hose. Interestingly, I think I hit every sticky point and applied the same 'fixes' in this video to get this sucker in. I actually found a path down from the top to reach the lower hose clamp screw with a very long slotted screwdriver. I will try to get a photo of that 'secret' path next time I am messing with that area. I have a question about the ECS upper PCV hose. My hose is 'pinching' when the engine is started. My PCV valve/gasket was recently replaced. The car recently started throwing P0441 (N80?) codes but not sure it is related since the hose has been installed for months before the codes. Even though the PCV tutorial was good, I am still not intuitive enough to figure out how to start diagnosing the source of this pinching. Help! '08 B7 A4 2.0T APR Stage 2 tune
Pinching, hey? Do you mean that the U-shaped upper hose is kinked? Or are you describing a noise? Regardless, replace with N80 since it's cheap and easy. It could be a loose hose on your canister (8E0201801L) too. There aren't too many components that can fail in the evap system.
@@FigureItAudi The hose kinks or buckles inward like it's sucking for air...i since pulled the N80 and it is not holding air so I ordered a new one....we'll see if that does it....thanks
Ah! Yes. You must have the first version ECS made that didn't have the coiled metal support inside. It buckles, as you say, under vacuum from the intake manifold. The very first video I ever made on this channel is on the revised upper hose and I may have shown the difference in construction there. I'd email ECS and I bet they would replace it for free.
Loved the video and now feel I have a better understanding of the PCV system because you took the time to give a detailed explanation. I'm having an under boost issue (P0299). It looks like the check valve on the breather tube is broken, because I can force air through it in the wrong direction when doing a pressure test. Can a broken check valve on the breather tube cause an under boost condition?
Hi Ted, glad you found it useful. It's not impossible the breather is your culprit, but I'm somewhat doubtful. Under boost and with no other direction for crankcase pressure to travel, I'd like to think that pressure (and the combined effect of boost "pulling" air from the head in the proper direction of air flow in the breather) coming out of the head would over ride the resistance of boost creeping up that hose. But, for the cost of the pipe and gasket, I'd just replace it. I have another video on the N75 valve that you should watch to think about that under boost situation more.
When i remove my oil cap on idling, i have a fair amount of suction and when i finally remove it the engine stalls... By your explanation if i understand well, the engine on idling is on vacuum mode so is that normal??? Also what is your opinion on removing the stock front pcv and replace it with catch can? Is it better for the engine? BTW Best explanation i have seen for the stock PCV system, thank you very much for taking the time to share. :-)
Hi Nick - Correct, that suction at idle is a good thing. I think catch cans are a good idea, generally speaking and if your climate permits, I would do it. They're not a perfect system though and ultimately you're still returning gunk to the intake manifold - it's just better than nothing. Beyond pulling blowby out of the system, the larger benefit of catch cans might just be getting rid of the PCV check valve and therefore eliminating a common failure item. Call it peace of mind.
@@FigureItAudi by removing the stock pcv and adding catch can, you also removing the suction on idling. Do you think that this is ok to do? It's a massive conversation around the pcv system from fsi engines, and im still trying to figure out the best way. Thank you very much.
Bingo. No, I don't think it's that ok. I was going to save this solution for when I put the exhaust system onto my FSI but plans have recently changed, so I will gift you my master plan here in this innocuous thread. So, the goal of course is to 1. Always provide vacuum to the crankcase, and 2. Never allow blowby to re-enter the intake system from any inlet. Basically, treat the front and rear PCV systems and 2 separate systems. On the front, remove the PCV and block all ports. Instead, run a line directly into a V mounted flange (angle is critical to create vacuum effect and not let exhaust gas come into the line) right after the catalytic converter, using the exhaust flow to provide a constant vacuum to the crankcase and sending blowby straight into the exhaust to burn off in the pipes. It would be somewhat important to get the car warm before driving in this scenario. This also becomes a gravity fed system, but you could work a check valve into it if you didn't trust the exhaust vacuum to be constant. On the rear, get rid of the breather hose, cap the hole into the turbo intake, then run another line out of the valve cover and into the same exhaust flange you're using to pull blowby from the lower crank hose. As a bonus, in one or both of these systems, run a catch can in-line to separate oil to reduce the amount that hits the exhaust to create less of a mess behind the car. Google "mann provent". This was a format I concepted for cool climates such that the solution does not depend on a catch can to work.
@@FigureItAudi wow that was a very long message. Unfortunately my knowledge is not that big to do all these myself. But it really seems like a perfect solution. Now my last question will be, catch can the normal way, or stock pcv valve? Stock pcv with more carbon build up and more often clean the valves, or catch can with less carbon build up and no vacuum? Thank you very much, i really appreciate your help 🙏🙏
By a slim margin, I would say: catch can. Most of the time you're driving it'll be at some level of boost, and I would rather keep junk out of the intake than ensure tons of vacuum is present when the car isn't at load.
Those "quick connect" pcv pipes are quick connected and quick disconnect. The ONLY hold on at 2 points, not 4. Squeeze the clip at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions and this releases the clips at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock. Whilst squeezing, wiggle and pull gently and they disconnect, by hand.
When you find oil in the inter cooler hoses, would you replace the PCV valve? Or is oil in the inter cooler hoses normal? Also, I would love a video explanation on Camshaft position sensor and Crankshaft position sensor. Thank you for the helpful videos as always!
It's "normal". Assuming it's blow by. It's possible that excessive oil in the piping could be related to a turbo seal failure and the oil is draining into the charge pipes but more often than not on these cars, it's just the symptom of the PCV circuit. The easiest thing to do is pop off the lower intercooler couplings that go between the core support and both side mount intercoolers and let it drain out once in awhile. Sad but true.
@@FigureItAudi I installed drains in the plastic pieces that the charge pipes (hoses) clamp to. This is at the lowest point in the charge pipe run just ahead of the fender openings. Basically just 1/4-20 thumb screws with a small rubber washer as a seal. Takes just a few minutes to drill and tap the holes. No need to raise the car or remove anything. I check these at about 2.5-3.0k miles (4.0-4.8k kilometers). Typically I find zero to just a few dribbles in the passenger side and 50-100ml in the driver's side pretty consistently. It looks like typical motor oil. I see no moisture or anything else. Haya....
Hello there again :-) After watching the video again i am about to ask you few things :-) Do you have any oil consumption with this engine? I am suffering oil consumption and i have try everything to reduce it without positive results. Some are claiming that the pcv design on that engine is absolutely junk including the valve cover. In my case front pcv and rear breather are coming off the valve cover are always full of oil as a result all that oil travels through the intercooler pipes and end up in the intake which is burn after that. Even on the front pcv if i wipe off the oil and i drive the car for 15 minutes it gets full of oil again in no time. I have change the pcv with new one and does exactly the same without any improvement! There is one video only on youtube that he installed the aluminium billet valve cover with the catch can, and by eliminating completely the stock pcv, front and rear he's not using any oil anymore! Also i've noticed with mine even with catch can installed, the rear breather pipe is still full of oil. How do you explain that? Thank you very much :-)
I sold the A4 this last spring (fall, for you? Like 6 months ago) to get the S4 but during my ownership I never had oil issues, even with what I found in the intake. Not bad enough to top up the car between oil changes, which I did once every 5k kms or so. If you're getting a LOT of oil in your catch can AND still seeing as much oil as you used to in the breather hoses, I would do a cylinder leak down test to see if your valve stem seals or rings are an issue and are contributing to above average consumption and blow by being produced.
Hey 3K - Climate permitting, yeah, the catch can system is a step towards a smoother running engine. But, scroll down and read the back and forth between Nick RPT and I for the specifics on why it's not a full solution.
I agree, although if we're going to start talking wish list, it's long and I'm going to need a lot more space. Of course I rep the VW AG on the channel here, but I'd love to add an S-chassis to the collection one day. A kouki or S15 would do nicely. I've also got eyes on certain Bavarian vintages...who knows where the future will go. Thanks for watching.
@@DP-nr1hz JDM landed probably 10k bottom of the barrel S13/4 and 15/20K+++ for an S15. Anything LHD/240sx from North America is going for more than they're worth already. If I had more money and foresight as a younger lad living in a country with only a 15 year importation law, I could have had my pick of the litter. Such is life.
Hands down THE best explanation of how the PCV system on the 2.0TFSI engine works anywhere on TH-cam!
I've been wrestling with mine trying to get to the bottom of excessive oil in the intercooler pipes - like half a litre from both after 300 miles!
I've changed the PCV valve, changed the cam cover and the turbo and the issue is still there 😭
The only thing I have left to try is a PCV delete with a vented catch can and block the rear PCV intake on the turbo.
If this doesn't work, I'm out of solutions 🤷
Kudos. I like how you took the time to give a detailed explanation of how the system works and not just installing the part. I have a GTI and I have never really looked at the PCV system or considered how a turbo car is a different situation than a Naturally aspirated engine. I like your videos keep up the good work..
Appreciate it Brad.
I often explain to others; there are two types of PCV and two rear vent tubes. The valve in the rear vent tube you showed, pairs with the Rev.-P PCV. There is another rear vent tube with no valve and it pairs with the Rev.-R PCV. Although the Rev.-R PCV will function with either rear vent tube...valved or not. I also do not recommend people delete the PCV if their car is mostly used as a daily. For the losing the benefit of crankcase vacuum. Which helps with sealing at: seals__valve guides__and piston rings. If they are nearly always racing it, and it is in boost most of the time, then go on and delete the PCV; because they are never really utilizing the application of vacuum to the crankcase when racing. I personally feel that the catch-can systems made for these are all wrong for a daily. But when one sometimes sports it. They should instead have left the PCV and added two catch-cans; one spliced into the hose leading to the inlet manifold (perhaps with a one-way valve in its exit to the manifold)...and another spliced in between the rear outlet of the rocker cover and the turbo inlet (replacing the rear vent tube). This would then not delete crankcase vacuum (with a Rev.-R PCV)...and the catch-cans would then filter in both vacuum and boost.
you have the far best explanations on yt about theese cars. Thank you man
I bought the same ECS hoses myself & I like. The OE pipes were an absolute pain in the ass to remove without destroying them. I use a long skinny flat blade screw driver to reach down through to the bottom hose clamp. It works just fine & you can remove & install the bottom hose with only disconnecting the HPFP wire & some patience.
Soup to nuts, concise, explination of how blow by is routed with turbo. Thank you.
This was very helpful for understanding the PCV system on my MK5 GTI which also uses the 2.0 FSI engine. Thanks for taking the time to make this.
I wouldn't say it's a bad sign, at least. If she idles nice and smooth, I wouldn't worry about it.
Wow! Super helpful explanation. Having pcv issues and now I have a plan of attack. On my 3rd pcv in 7k miles, so it's time to investigate more of the system.
Best Audi Tech i know on youtube! you make me feel like i designed the engine myself. thanks for naming every part very clearly so i can order parts online
i like how u explain it bud, even the little things like post it notes on the actual parts your talking about it.. it gives the viewer a better understanding of everything in detail! good on ya bud, thats why im subscribing and because i own a b7 too! i like to support one another!
Thanks Chace, appreciate the feedback and support. I genuinely had a good time learning how the PCV works to make this video because previously I was a little confused about how many after marketing catch can and block off plate solutions worked. Now I get it, but also feel like they're still only half solutions. I think I could do better, which I intend to try in the future.
I have fixed this problem literally. I want to send you a video about it. New subscriber and I’m totally inspired.
And I have a catch can fix for the b8 Africa pcv as well. Ha
New subscriber here. Nice detailed explanation of the VAG FSI pcv system! Do you have a video of that engine running? I have a MkV GTI with those ecs hoses I installed. The intake to pcv hose collapsed always under vacuum and expanded under boost with the pcv closed. Does your's do that as well? It eventually failed (metal wire in the hose broke and punctured through the hose) and I just put on the factory hose.
Great video! The primer on the PCV system really helped to explain a lot of things! I've recently pulled the intake to do a walnut media cleaning of the valves - that would have been the ideal time to replace this hose. One correction - at 13:41 you point out the intake temperature sensor but call it the MAP sensor. Just noting as I had to replace the MAP which is on the charge system. Thanks for the video!
thank you so very much, ive suspected how the PCV works for many years (owned a mk6 golf R from brand new 11 years ago), but finally someone to confirm my thoughts, also! i learn more about the Lower PCV Pipe! always thought that was a oil return to crankcase!
I'm So Happy to see about video about this install. Thanks Man.
Rather than use the ECS Tuning silicone hose (which is a bargain BTW) I used a HPS silicone coupler, 1.0 inch ID by 4 inch long. I found an alternative breather hose that is originally for a VW Jetta 2.0 (part no. 06G131127.) The silicone piece fits nicely on the oil filter housing spigot. I trimmed the latch ring off the VW breather tube and simply inserted it in the open end of the silicone piece. Spring clips are used to secure the ends. Why? Two reasons: 1. easier decoupling of the breather hose. 2. Better access of the banjo bolt on the HPFP. The ESC Tuning silicone hose blocks that access even worse than the original breather hose. The VW hose (slightly smaller diameter) can be routed just slightly forward resulting in clear access to the banjo from below. Best regards and GREAT vid. Haya....
Nice !!! I've watched thousands of a4 b7 vids. About thousands of sensors and leaks and catalytic converters and well you get it. You know your stuff about combustion. Keep on learning me !! ✍🤔
I just did this one and came here to say. Don't waste all of your time screwing around with that lower Norma fitting if you're going to replace it with this ECS hose. Just break them. I used a flathead screwdriver and a 90° hook. Cut the hose at the far corner as it turns towards the rear. Twist and pull and the hose is off. Just that easy! Total replacement time was less than an hour.
I can sense a pita when you intend to swap cam follower in future. That hose is blocking banjo bolt and space around it.
Thanks for explaining the pcv system!
Replaced it when you check cam follower..make it much easier
Thanks for the video! man was this a pain in the ass lol. sprayed the hose down with silicone spray to help lube it up to get it through the tight spaces.
For sure the way to go.
How much crankcase vacuum do you expect from a normal PCV valve in an VW FSI turbo engine at idle? Is it normal for the oil cap to be pulled down hard, with the engine stumbling and even stalling when the oil cap is removed?
Technically, it's the intake manifold that's providing the vacuum to evacuate the crankcase pressure (same difference, right?) - but at idle, I'd estimate you can expect to see a few InHg of vacuum. And yes, that suction on the oil cap is a good thing and it would stumble when removed.
I have an issue that has been driving me crazy. The hose going into the valve cover between the oil filler cap and raised bevel of the valve cover.... should that have vacuum and what exactly is it for?
would you help me with this? I don't have this hose in my car, and it can be heard that it sucks air into the intake that goes to the booster, I would like to know what its function is, thanks
Hi. What part number have the red 2.0tfsi ignition coils? Those are Beru or others?
Would it be bad to block off the Pcv hose to the intake manifold and just run the lower Pcv hose. Ecs sells them on their website and recommends them for a permanent solution to the leaking oem system.
Great video explanation of the pcv system, I've done that hose change and its a pain
Very well explained, great video! Thank you for posting!
What do you think would be the outcome of just running the ie rear block off and leaving the rest of the system in. I'm mainly trying to stop the oil consumption. Like most I've replaced a lot and done a leak down and just running in circles.
Not a great idea - that rear exit is very necessary when under the most pressure. You'd be building up crankcase pressure basically all times under boost which is a lot of the time. What'd you learn in the leak down? Because if you're eating a lot of oil, I start thinking about leaking valve stem seals, broken/worn rings or otherwise something not regulating or sealing oil properly. But you would have seen leakdown losses from the head in certain ports or out of the oil cap.
nice and informative video
Question: I'm about to attempt this install on my Golf R, and I was curious about all the electronics you disconnected. Do those disconnections not affect the car? I can just unplug and re-plug them without worrying about things getting messed up/needing recalibrated/etc?
You're ok - there's not many things to be concerned with unplugging connectors on; more so things are affected by battery terminal disconnects.
Awesome content 👍🏻
Can you help me with me seat Leon Cupra MK2. You never got it in the USA but it has the same engine as the mk5 golf GTi. I have a hunting on the cold start and a minor miss fire on idle. I have changed maf pre cat lamber walnut blasted intake valves injectors cleaned with new filter baskets. Coil packs, spark plugs and a new pcv. Please help the video is on my shorts 😞
Thank you for your help!!
So I'm replacing the PCV itself, the lower hose as well as the silver breather hose featured earlier in the video. Do you think removing the HPFP would make this a lot easier? I plan on doin the cam follower soon.
Hi Keishi - If you're due for the cam follower, yes, remove the HPFP and save yourself some knuckle room. But removing the pump definitely isn't required. No pressure.
Do you know what part the PCV mates up to is called? The one with the orange gasket in it.
Yeah, it's just the entire valve cover (06D103469N), which is one of the many issues with the B7 system. The PCV valve has metal screws that thread into the valve covers plastic threads. It's really easy to over torque the PCV bolts and strip the holes, creating a loose fitting PCV at the orange gasket.
@@FigureItAudi I just replaced the PCV today on my 2012 Golf R FSI, was going to do the same lower hose as you've done in this video but since its mounted in a transverse orientation in the golfs... the lower connection is nearly impossible to get to without removing the intake manifold. Problem is, I'm still getting the intermittent P0507 and surging idle despite having replaced the PCV. Any ideas?
I see. My guess is that the lower hose doesn't have anything to do with your problem, being that if it's so hard to get to and that it's subject to some cooling in the front of the car, it's unlikely to be damaged and causing any part of that vacuum issue. Since the surge is at idle I also wouldn't blame the rear hose. Have you combed through the intake system and all the intercooler piping? wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16891/P0507/001287. I'm terrible at electrical, but it could be that too.
@@FigureItAudi Yeah I also didn't think it would be one of the hoses but ordered them because I figure might as well if I was in there already. I'm thinking vacuum leak somewhere after the maf.
Great PCV system info. I wish I had seen this video before installing my ECS hose. Interestingly, I think I hit every sticky point and applied the same 'fixes' in this video to get this sucker in. I actually found a path down from the top to reach the lower hose clamp screw with a very long slotted screwdriver. I will try to get a photo of that 'secret' path next time I am messing with that area.
I have a question about the ECS upper PCV hose. My hose is 'pinching' when the engine is started. My PCV valve/gasket was recently replaced. The car recently started throwing P0441 (N80?) codes but not sure it is related since the hose has been installed for months before the codes. Even though the PCV tutorial was good, I am still not intuitive enough to figure out how to start diagnosing the source of this pinching. Help!
'08 B7 A4 2.0T APR Stage 2 tune
Pinching, hey? Do you mean that the U-shaped upper hose is kinked? Or are you describing a noise? Regardless, replace with N80 since it's cheap and easy. It could be a loose hose on your canister (8E0201801L) too. There aren't too many components that can fail in the evap system.
@@FigureItAudi The hose kinks or buckles inward like it's sucking for air...i since pulled the N80 and it is not holding air so I ordered a new one....we'll see if that does it....thanks
Ah! Yes. You must have the first version ECS made that didn't have the coiled metal support inside. It buckles, as you say, under vacuum from the intake manifold. The very first video I ever made on this channel is on the revised upper hose and I may have shown the difference in construction there. I'd email ECS and I bet they would replace it for free.
@@FigureItAudi i.just chatted with ECS today and they never hinted at any of this when I posed the same issue....disappointing....
Loved the video and now feel I have a better understanding of the PCV system because you took the time to give a detailed explanation. I'm having an under boost issue (P0299). It looks like the check valve on the breather tube is broken, because I can force air through it in the wrong direction when doing a pressure test. Can a broken check valve on the breather tube cause an under boost condition?
Hi Ted, glad you found it useful. It's not impossible the breather is your culprit, but I'm somewhat doubtful. Under boost and with no other direction for crankcase pressure to travel, I'd like to think that pressure (and the combined effect of boost "pulling" air from the head in the proper direction of air flow in the breather) coming out of the head would over ride the resistance of boost creeping up that hose. But, for the cost of the pipe and gasket, I'd just replace it. I have another video on the N75 valve that you should watch to think about that under boost situation more.
@@FigureItAudi Thanks. I'll check it out.
What’s the inside diameter of the ecs hose ?
The same ID as the stock hose. You can measure your OE one for the exact answer.
R8 coils eh?
Man I still have mine, I gave up back in august trying to put it...
When i remove my oil cap on idling, i have a fair amount of suction and when i finally remove it the engine stalls... By your explanation if i understand well, the engine on idling is on vacuum mode so is that normal??? Also what is your opinion on removing the stock front pcv and replace it with catch can? Is it better for the engine?
BTW Best explanation i have seen for the stock PCV system, thank you very much for taking the time to share. :-)
Hi Nick - Correct, that suction at idle is a good thing. I think catch cans are a good idea, generally speaking and if your climate permits, I would do it. They're not a perfect system though and ultimately you're still returning gunk to the intake manifold - it's just better than nothing. Beyond pulling blowby out of the system, the larger benefit of catch cans might just be getting rid of the PCV check valve and therefore eliminating a common failure item. Call it peace of mind.
@@FigureItAudi by removing the stock pcv and adding catch can, you also removing the suction on idling. Do you think that this is ok to do?
It's a massive conversation around the pcv system from fsi engines, and im still trying to figure out the best way.
Thank you very much.
Bingo. No, I don't think it's that ok. I was going to save this solution for when I put the exhaust system onto my FSI but plans have recently changed, so I will gift you my master plan here in this innocuous thread. So, the goal of course is to 1. Always provide vacuum to the crankcase, and 2. Never allow blowby to re-enter the intake system from any inlet. Basically, treat the front and rear PCV systems and 2 separate systems.
On the front, remove the PCV and block all ports. Instead, run a line directly into a V mounted flange (angle is critical to create vacuum effect and not let exhaust gas come into the line) right after the catalytic converter, using the exhaust flow to provide a constant vacuum to the crankcase and sending blowby straight into the exhaust to burn off in the pipes. It would be somewhat important to get the car warm before driving in this scenario. This also becomes a gravity fed system, but you could work a check valve into it if you didn't trust the exhaust vacuum to be constant.
On the rear, get rid of the breather hose, cap the hole into the turbo intake, then run another line out of the valve cover and into the same exhaust flange you're using to pull blowby from the lower crank hose. As a bonus, in one or both of these systems, run a catch can in-line to separate oil to reduce the amount that hits the exhaust to create less of a mess behind the car. Google "mann provent".
This was a format I concepted for cool climates such that the solution does not depend on a catch can to work.
@@FigureItAudi wow that was a very long message.
Unfortunately my knowledge is not that big to do all these myself.
But it really seems like a perfect solution.
Now my last question will be, catch can the normal way, or stock pcv valve?
Stock pcv with more carbon build up and more often clean the valves, or catch can with less carbon build up and no vacuum?
Thank you very much, i really appreciate your help 🙏🙏
By a slim margin, I would say: catch can. Most of the time you're driving it'll be at some level of boost, and I would rather keep junk out of the intake than ensure tons of vacuum is present when the car isn't at load.
Those "quick connect" pcv pipes are quick connected and quick disconnect. The ONLY hold on at 2 points, not 4. Squeeze the clip at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions and this releases the clips at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock. Whilst squeezing, wiggle and pull gently and they disconnect, by hand.
next time spray some soapy water on the pipe for it to slide easier, good video though!
When you find oil in the inter cooler hoses, would you replace the PCV valve? Or is oil in the inter cooler hoses normal? Also, I would love a video explanation on Camshaft position sensor and Crankshaft position sensor. Thank you for the helpful videos as always!
It's "normal". Assuming it's blow by. It's possible that excessive oil in the piping could be related to a turbo seal failure and the oil is draining into the charge pipes but more often than not on these cars, it's just the symptom of the PCV circuit. The easiest thing to do is pop off the lower intercooler couplings that go between the core support and both side mount intercoolers and let it drain out once in awhile. Sad but true.
@@FigureItAudi I installed drains in the plastic pieces that the charge pipes (hoses) clamp to. This is at the lowest point in the charge pipe run just ahead of the fender openings. Basically just 1/4-20 thumb screws with a small rubber washer as a seal. Takes just a few minutes to drill and tap the holes. No need to raise the car or remove anything. I check these at about 2.5-3.0k miles (4.0-4.8k kilometers). Typically I find zero to just a few dribbles in the passenger side and 50-100ml in the driver's side pretty consistently. It looks like typical motor oil. I see no moisture or anything else. Haya....
Hello there again :-)
After watching the video again i am about to ask you few things :-)
Do you have any oil consumption with this engine? I am suffering oil consumption and i have try everything to reduce it without positive results. Some are claiming that the pcv design on that engine is absolutely junk including the valve cover. In my case front pcv and rear breather are coming off the valve cover are always full of oil as a result all that oil travels through the intercooler pipes and end up in the intake which is burn after that. Even on the front pcv if i wipe off the oil and i drive the car for 15 minutes it gets full of oil again in no time. I have change the pcv with new one and does exactly the same without any improvement! There is one video only on youtube that he installed the aluminium billet valve cover with the catch can, and by eliminating completely the stock pcv, front and rear he's not using any oil anymore! Also i've noticed with mine even with catch can installed, the rear breather pipe is still full of oil. How do you explain that? Thank you very much :-)
I sold the A4 this last spring (fall, for you? Like 6 months ago) to get the S4 but during my ownership I never had oil issues, even with what I found in the intake. Not bad enough to top up the car between oil changes, which I did once every 5k kms or so. If you're getting a LOT of oil in your catch can AND still seeing as much oil as you used to in the breather hoses, I would do a cylinder leak down test to see if your valve stem seals or rings are an issue and are contributing to above average consumption and blow by being produced.
That music made me die of laughter, was that a joke or a serious music genre you like?
Do you recommend pcv delete with catch can in this engine. What is pros and cons.
Hey 3K - Climate permitting, yeah, the catch can system is a step towards a smoother running engine. But, scroll down and read the back and forth between Nick RPT and I for the specifics on why it's not a full solution.
That does not look like fun at all 👀 but very informative 👌
Buy some fuel hose with correct internal dimensions and couple hose clamps and save yourself 65 quid.
This hose is terrible, touching about everything on the engine
I replaced it as well & mannn it was annoying lol
You need a new car to go with your new garage mate. May I suggest a Japanese car?
I agree, although if we're going to start talking wish list, it's long and I'm going to need a lot more space. Of course I rep the VW AG on the channel here, but I'd love to add an S-chassis to the collection one day. A kouki or S15 would do nicely. I've also got eyes on certain Bavarian vintages...who knows where the future will go. Thanks for watching.
@@FigureItAudi yes kouki s15. What are prices around your area?
@@DP-nr1hz JDM landed probably 10k bottom of the barrel S13/4 and 15/20K+++ for an S15. Anything LHD/240sx from North America is going for more than they're worth already. If I had more money and foresight as a younger lad living in a country with only a 15 year importation law, I could have had my pick of the litter. Such is life.
@@FigureItAudi ooh pricey, better to just get a brand new vw golf r
I absolutely despise EMMISIONS
Annoying cars
Great video 😎🏁