Converting 1" filter frames to accept 4" filters
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2024
- This short video shows how to convert your air conditioning filter frame to you can replace the filter with 4" filters. The conversion takes around 20-30 minutes and can cost as little as $5.
Source for the filters i'm using
www.amazon.com...
![[UNCUT] The Loyal Pin ปิ่นภักดิ์ EP.7 (1/4)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2rPGOyKs0VE/mqdefault.jpg)
I know this is an old video but wanted to point out there are large air gaps at the top and sides of these filters. Might want to look at other brands and check out the actual vs nominal sizes to get a tighter fit. It should fit snug. Good video on how to convert to 4 or 5 inch meds filter. Also to check static pressure you can ask any HVAC tech on their maintenance visit to do that. Most systems are designed to have .5 water column for static pressure.
Small 1” gap up top but sides have wood behind. Easy duct tape job..
I like the background music. You are talking about air filters, but the music is something you would hear during an action scene haha
I did this a few years ago. I had originally (1) 18x25 Filter which is an odd size with a deep cavity. The newer AC Unit would just about suck the Filter into the wall and was noisy. So I built a Plywood Box to fit in the Existing opening that allowed (2) 20x25 Filters that accepts 1 to 5 Inch think Filters. This reduced the Amps my unit was pulling and increase air flow greatly. I checked the Filters 18 Months later (every 6 Months) and everything was flowing like new still. I only changed them due to the amount of dirt the the Box accumulated and just started to have an odor (18 Months). In short the Return Filters lasted longer, more quiet and lowered my Electrical Bill as well. It didn't Blow Warmer or Cooler. The home just felt better.
If your AC was setup with that much restriction it's going to change the pressure temperature at your coil since you're going to have a lot more airflow.
Thanks Kris! I modified ours last night and put a 4” deep filter in. The airflow is very noticeable and there is no more high velocity noises at the return anymore!
You should seal up that bay more, a lot of air is simply going around the filters.
This is literally the exact video I needed. Thanks for sharing!
You should probably have used the T-bat drop ceiling holder between the 2 filters with foam to seal the edges of the 2 filters. Just screw or pop rivet it to the L channels.
Good info, knew high Merv ratings choked air flow, didn't think of 4 inch filters. BTW, here are some of the numbers for Honeywell filters that fit 1 inch frames 4 inches thick. Pricy, but last 4 times as long so overall about the same cost.
Honeywell
FC40R1094 12x12x4
FC40R1037 12x24x4
FC40R1078 24x24x4
You can search for your size with Honeywell and FC which will turn it up. They make many sizes as well as some that are 3 inches thick.
Filterbuy also make some 4 inch thick filters for one inch frame.
Thanks for the info!
Nice job. A couple of tips: for protection vs Covid, use Merv 13 media. That's the latest recommendation.
To tell if the filter is restricting air flow too much: in cooling, residential units pretty much always work on a "20 degree split". Measure the air temperature at the return grille, and then at a supply grille (get the temp probe well inside the air flow: inside the grille). Nominally, you should get 20 split. Anything from 18--22 is ok. More than 22 and you're restricting the air flow more than optimum. At about 30 split, you might be doing damage.
Air flow measurement is measured with a manometer. Total external static measurement should be ideally less than 0.5 inch water column. You are talking about Delta T.
@@tonyhwang3888 Measuring air flow is tricky. You have to keep in mind that as much as 25% of total unit air flow can exit through duct leaks. Devices that measure air flow at outlets (eg, manometer, anemometer, orifice pressure loss) have significant inaccuracies. If you spend enough time, you can get air measurement within a probable 25% in the field. But with set-capacity units (eg, packages, splits designed for normal duty), they all are designed at about 20 degree differential across the cooling coil. If you measure more than 20, you probably have low air flow; less than 20, you probably have high air flow (high and low relative to the unit nominal air flow, which is usually 400 cfm/ton). So, while not intuitive to the initiate, temperature measurement is a practical test of air flow. [And please note that a value such as "external static" is not well defined: does this "external" mean the cooling coil and filter, as well as ducts and grilles; or is that "external" to the package unit/fan coil, in which case you also have to define duct connection inefficiencies. It's not quite as simple as "0.5".]
Thanks - I scored the steel with my dremel and bent back and forth to removed the unwanted angle.
good tip.
I'm about to embark on a similar conversion. While this is what you want to do, you really should measure inWC with a manometer (static air pressure) to validate and dial in where your equipment needs to be.
"Duct Tape" is fine to use around the perimeter to cover any air leakage from any margins of space around the elements. Not pretty, very functional, and out of sight out of mind.
Excellent!
Glad I could help
@@KrisKasprzak I have been looking for a 4-inch return air for our new system that came with 12x24x1 and now I can upgrade at little cost! My next weekend project!!
Cool, thanks for the video Kris !!
I think I’ll make it 5” so I can use 1” washable filter to prolong the life of higher merv 4” filter
Good idea. You are the best thank you for sharing
Thank you so much for this video!! 🤩 This is EXACTLY the kind of “upgrade” I’ve been thinking about doing to my return air vent, lol. I’ve hesitated on doing this bc I’ve been too afraid of messing up somehow, & I just needed affirmation that someone else had tried out the idea successfully! 😅
If I may ask: when you cut the inner lip of the frame so that it could accommodate 4" filters-did you leave the vent frame screwed in place, or was it temporarily unscrewed & removed from the wall recess before cutting? 💭
My return air vent is located on the ceiling, rather than more easily accessible in a wall like yours, haha. 😩 I was contemplating whether or not it would be more convenient for me to just to unscrew the vent frame, remove it, trim the inner lip of the frame off, & reattach it into the ceiling recess (before installing the new angle pieces for the thicker filters). 🤔
Thank you once again for uploading this video, in addition to all of your other DIY tutorials! 🌠 I appreciate you dedicating your time, resourcefulness, & talent into trying to help others! 😄
I had to remove the original 1" frame for cutting--then put it back in when the flanges were cut off. I have 2 units in my house, the upstairs unit filter is in the ceiling and i have a few drywall screws acting as supports to keep it in place. 2 screws in one side and 1 on the other. I have to remove the single screw to replace the filter, but it's pretty easy to do.
thanks
No problem
is that a wall chase? Does the return air go up to the next floor? I tried to do a very similar thing with metal 1" filter frame.
in my situation, the return air hole is a 2nd floor hallway return that goes up into the attic where the air handler is at.
I installed turning vanes in the hallway return space - the air flow is less turbulent and its nice and even.
Which would be a great thing for filter purposes since the demand on the filter would be spread out eveningly.
No just behind the wall is a duct that goes to the intake of the air handler
To everyone doing this. Why replace something crappy with something crappy? Go to at least a merv 13. I’d do a 16 and call it a year… for a dual setup like this you could probably get away with annual replacement. For us peasants with single filters every 6 months prob. They’re more exp for good filters but why bother otherwise… I’d rather spend more and be healthier. And comparing 1” merv 8 monthly replacement to 4” merv 16 6mo intervals it’s a trivial dif. Filters are $60-80 a pop vs 10 or so.
Where did you find that the Accumulair carbon filters are MERV 8? I've looked in to them and can't find any specifications for the MERV rating for them. Any reference I've seen to the MERV rating from the manufacturer is that they are not MERV rated they are only for odor control if you want good filtering buy an electrostatic filter.
I found these on amazon. Here's a link to one that I use--maybe there are other sizes www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VN8Z4U/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2R3WW6A5M50RS I think you can also go to the distributors website www.airfilters.com/accumulair-air-filters.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhfuYqIao2AIVU7jACh0pUAAEEAAYASAAEgLrzvD_BwE
Great video. Did you notice any apparent noise reduction from the furnace/air handler after installing the 4 inch filter?
Not really other that the reduced sound from the highly restrictive 1" filter
Recommend fixed bar grille covers as they increase airflow on returns vs the stamped grille (restrictive) face owner has. I seen on one return an 18 pct increase and another 28 pct per data sheet.
do you have a link to one ?
@@mrdev5281 Go to truaire.com website... pix of a fixed bar grille...then go to home depot to special order as you can't buy directly from truaire. truaire.com/product/4020fg-series-fixed-bar-3-4-blade-spacing-return-air-filter-grille/
@@mrdev5281 truaire.com/product/290-series-fixed-bar-return-air-filter-grille-2/
tiger355 I currently have a 14x25x1 filter but I want to change it to a 16x25x1 as the 14 is hard to find in my area sometimes. I already have a 16” filter rack but how do I go about swapping it?
convert that grill into a bar ez day. to bend the fins to be straight
perfect!
Glad I could help.
oh dang, I'm doing this. I use merv13 filters but have two 30" returns for one unit.
Wow!
You should provide the link to buy the filters you are showing.
Good tip, i've added a link to where I bought these filters.
Kris, thanks for the great tutorial. I'm not finding the search term "right angle flange for t bar."
Would you link us to the part?
www.lowes.com/pd/Armstrong-Ceilings-Prelude-12-ft-White-Metal-Smooth-Wall-Moulding-Ceiling-Grid-Trim/3058409
Thanks!
Hello Kris i have question my air filter it’s located in living room and furnace it’s located next to it , and when the furnance it’s running you can hear intake air i barely can hear the tv, and filter size is 16x25x1, anything I can do about it? Thank you
what is the sound if you completely remove the filter and run the system? It it's quite, then maybe change to a 4" filter. A comment below claims there are 4" that will drop right in w/o frame modifications.
This would be much easier. Honeywell return grille filter / FC40R1177. This is a 24 x 30. Other sizes are available
Great tip, those types of filters were not available when this vid was created. I guess filter manufacturers watched this and were inspired :)
Dude, I know this post was made over a year ago, but you just saved me a tone of work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My AC sits over the filter housing (on a deck in a closet). It has two 1 inch channels. Could I cut the metal between the channels to get one 2” channel and use 2” filters?
sounds reasonable
Honeywell makes 4 inch filters that fit in 1 inch return air filter grill frame
Yeah I’ve heard about those I’m not checked him out but thanks for posting the tip
Do you have a link? My google powers are failing me.
Where is this?
how often do you change a 4" filter ?
What was the brand of the 4" filter?
why does yours look like that, mine goes between a duct and the furnace.
1 inch filters should be outlawed, too much restriction and waste for the environment. 2,3,4 etc all the way!
Update? Is this still working for you? Super curious.
Not only does it work like 1 million bucks, I’ve converted another intake in my house so now everything‘s on 4 inch filters. And I feel for filters are getting more popular because they’re much much easier to buy these days.
@@KrisKasprzak My family all suffer from year round allergies, have you tried merv 13 or higher box filters with any success? Thank you for responding! 🙂
How do you like it today do you still have the system, The 4-in filters?
Definitely glad I did it. I actually have a second unit that I performed the same operation on. I hear you can buy filters that are 4 inch that will can replace 1 inch filters.
@@KrisKasprzak awesome appreciate it good job, looks great
What about all of the air that is going around the filter?
What year that is going around the filter? It is sealed tightly
@@KrisKasprzak I'll create a quick video to explain what I am talking about. I do appreciate your video in explaining pressure drop since most are not aware of how filters work.
This is literally the exact opposite of the video that I need.
I want to modify my 4 to 5 inch filter system to use the standard 1 inch filters I have used my whole life.
The 4 to 5 inch filters vary in size from one manufacturer to another. None of them fit my HVAC correctly. They are expensive. They only last about 2 months at best and then I have to buy another $50 filter. The filter for an HVAC is supposed to protect the evaporator coil and the heat exchange from dust. It is the protect the HVAC system. It is NOT to filter the air in your home for micro particles that might bother the most sensitive humans. When filters start to get clogged with micro-particles they restrict the air flow and put a strain on the fan motor. After a while you have to get a new fan motor installed. And it is not uncommon that the HVAC repair guy tells you you need a whole new system to replace the one you have had for just 7 years.
youll get much better airflow if you cut off the cardboard grills on each side of your filters. I do it every time i change my my filters and the air flow from the blower is not strong enough to suck the media through without the grills.
@Infinite Possibilities You are misunderstanding. They are referring not the the paper around the borders, but the crisscross cardboard across center that prevents deflection.
Merv 13 doesn’t do this so Merv 16. IQ air
What?
@@KrisKasprzak if you have bad dust issues like we have in our new home that was built a few years back you need IQair filtration systems with a Merv 16 special order and filter box. I know. I have tried everything and unfortunately whenever they put the HVAC system return air in the attic of this beautiful home there was a leak that sprung later and then cellulose got inside of there and now it’s all over in our house and the only way we got rid of it was with IQ air. I even used a nano particle counter and IQ air has the best Merv 16 filters and very few carry 16s of all the companies.
Honeywell filters are actually the size they state. Im not sure why some filters are smaller than advetised . Its not lumber. Just give me what you say it is.
His furnace just has the filter right at the cold air return vent...thats all.
To everyone doing this. Why replace something crappy with something crappy? Go to at least a merv 13. I’d do a 16 and call it a year… for a dual setup like this you could probably get away with annual replacement. For us peasants with single filters every 6 months prob. They’re more exp for good filters but why bother otherwise… I’d rather spend more and be healthier. And comparing 1” merv 8 monthly replacement to 4” merv 16 6mo intervals it’s a trivial dif. Filters are $60-80 a pop vs 10 or so. A let’s go kill him mouse just one I don’t wanna be biting on myself Rose no
Music scary
The 4inch filters are in such a vast array of sizes that they are only online (no emergency availability)/ insane prices ,all the while still same cardboard and fiber fabric as 1inch ones.. NEVER LEAVE FILTERS IN FOR LONGER THAN 3-4MONTHS !!!/Weather, Sinus, Temperature variances and STAGNANT Times.. YOU CANNOT MAKE UP FOR MOLD GROWTH, DUST ETC MISC in the filter by prolonging,size,or depth..its like thinking something thicker would stay CLEANER???! . NOoO !! My less than yr old $8k Trane system w 4inch filter has had to be changed same as the 16yo Trane System had!!/SINUS DECREED SO!! SO,I tried the frame kits for fabric inserts (Too Messy n MOLD growth advantageous /HA$$LE)/I DONT LIKE CUTTING AND FOIL TAPING 1Inch filters BUT I DO IT VERY SUCCESSFULLY and EASILY and SUCH IMPROVED HEALTH,simply by/buy and cut down nearest size if got Hustled by AC salesman into a 4inch filter guide in your air handler ..there are ways IF FIND COMPETENT Responsible AC Contractor whom should have from factory sortv rails keeping filters edges from sticking near the coil fins of blower fan motor (factory & engineered guards probably=but Research before doing anything)! My new AC installers left Chunks of Gypsum!!/My Sinus Everything entire month t get them to get me a NEW filter/THEY brought me a USED ONE!??/ I CLEANED the coils n internal of handler above n below mySelf n have cut 1inch ones Rescuing $8k system, home ,n self from AC business SHAMS (Trane dealer doesn't mean squat!!)/I wish we'd known ductless better by REALISTIC professionals /BIG CAN COOLING IS A BAD OLD IDEA!
now your making your fan and compressor work harder by having pull air through a 4 inch filter rather than a 1 inch
The pressure drop across a 4-inch filter is much much less than 1 in. Fan runs with less resistance
Wrong.
More surface area means less resistance.
Talk to a HVAC guy about this. Mine said to go with a one inch as opposed to a five inch. Less resistance and wear on your blower motor.
@@thomasmoore5831 I am a HVAC guy. Think if it this way your total volume of air remains constant. Lets think of the air as sand would all your sand go through a one inch strainer or one that has five times as many holes? I hope this helps. Kinda.