If you haven't found it already there is an absolutely awesome site devoted to information on these motors. I wish I had done my homework and looked at this site before getting into this motor! The site link is listed below: www.leeroysramblings.com/OMC_9.5.htm
I see you mention using 90w gear oil, however, I've read elsewhere to use only Type C gear oil since it is recommended by Johnson Evinrude. Some people have said it doesn't really matter unless you are using it on an electronic shifter because anything other than type c gear oils can deteriorate the electronics. If that's the case, would it still be best to use type c gear oil as it is recommended by the manufacturer?
@@mikemcgowan168 You are correct that Type C oil should be used in models with electronic shift (my old boat had one of these). I'm not an expert by any means, but my thoughts on 'conventional' lower units is that oil technology has come a long way since these motors were made, and modern marine lower unit gear oil will work just as well or better than Type C formulations.
@@TheAfterWorkGarage I was kind of thinking the same thing, and I've read a lot of material that hints the points you just mentioned. Thanks for your help.
Hi Andrew, Great job being informative and entertaining. Got a similar motor from my grandparents house and now I get to keep a family motor going for my kids. Thanks!
You Sir are a absolute legend! This video is excellent. Thanks so very sorry much indeed for sharing! Very informative and educational. I've just scored a 50 year old Johnson Evinrude Sportwin 9.5hp in really lovely condition for her age. She has been stored away on a canal boat for around 16 years. She turns over well and the gear shifter functions! Can't wait to get started impeller change coils renewed! Carburettor serviced etc.....Once again thank you very much indeed for sharing this video. All very much appreciated.....Top man.
Awesome video! I got my hands on a 1963 Sportwin and I'm rebuilding her as well (also had 65psi pressure test). iv learned a lot from you and i really like the fact that you show us every aspect even when you mess up, it really helps us all learn! I recently found out that if you flip that puller the other way so the flat surface is on top, it works much better!
Excellent videos on the evinrude 9.5hp. I just got mine started and knew there was something wrong. No water coming out of engine. You didnt specifically say how deep the otor how to be in the water but you mentioned the deep bucket. I am sure that will resolve my issue. Plus you made a great suggestion on checking the gear oil. My motor has been sitting for over 30 years. The only issues I had are with the fuel inlet and lifting and reverse mechanisms. Once again you did an awesome job and I actually watced all four videos.
Thanks for the kind words, and I'm glad you are getting to enjoy one of these motors. With regards to the water level, just make sure that the water is up to the level of the anti-ventilation plate. If you still have water issues and you have changed out the impeller, just start tracing the water system back to see if there is a blockage. Oftentimes pieces of an old shredded impeller, or pebbles can get lodged in the water passages and block water flow. Also be sure to check the thermostat (not shown in the video) to see if it is stuck shut.
get the factory service manual.... seloc is the worst ever made. also you only need 3 pulls on the handle to get the comp up. 70-80 psi is great for those motors as they have a really low gear to make it turn the flywheel easier, but results in a lower cranking compression.
I'm glad it's helpful. I hope to continue making more videos in the near future, and get back on a more regular schedule. I'm currently finishing up writing my dissertation for my PhD, so that's been keeping me a bit tied up for the time being - but I'll get back to videos as soon as I can!
I just picked one of these up and couldn’t believe it would not tilt unless you manually pull the hooks down..Guess they added the lock/unlock later. Prop is like new but sloppy on shaft. Have to investigate that.
good.actually the current in generated by magnets and coil as you say but the advancement of the stator makes the points become moved into a quicker break in points or retarded or slower brek in current or spark,makin it much more powerful or responsive or just straight up fire in combustion chamber at a more effective time.hence the term timing.love these old motors,these guys who developed these motors were nothing short of geniuses.like video.good luck.i have a 1966 looks almost identical.just paint diff.good motors.i have a 49 10 hp and a 53 johnsons also.cant beat those things.well heck if you got it cheap really great.
Thanks for sharing the information. Despite how common they are, I don't have a ton of experience with these kinds of ignition systems, as their primary usage was a bit before my time. It's something that I'd definitely like to become more proficient in.
Update on my 9.5 I got my eBay lower unit and looks in great shape for 65 dollars I went to remove the old one and 2 of the 4 bolts broke off I broke one one was already missing they where very messed up I stopped for the day to see how I can separate the old lower off I can’t seem to find anything how I’m going to get a thin bar and try to separate them then I’ll try some heat and let it cool a few times with some vice grips to get the studs out I hope it works
Hello, I am from Tunisia and I have the same engine, but it does not work and makes pops. I have a fault in the electricity. Please help me (There are no spare parts for me) Thank you
Hi Ammar, hard to say what the issue may be without more info. What makes you think it's an electrical problem? If you're sure it's electrical, I'd check all your connections and points. The popping sound could be a result of an exhaust backfire where unburned gas/air mixture is passing through when the engine fails to fire, then finally ignites when you do get intermittent spark. I also don't know what the shipping situation is like in Tunisia, but I have been told electrical components for this engine are available online. Good luck, I hope you track down the issue!
@@ammaryassine7542 Ah, well at least you've identified the issue. I'd say ideally you'd need to track down a new coil, because it's only going to get worse. I'm not an electronics guy, so if there is a way to repair coils, I don't know how. One of the other commenters mentioned that coils for this motor are still readily available, so hopefully you can find one!
@@TheAfterWorkGarage Hello my friend The problem is that there are no spare parts in my country, even the old used ones, and I find it difficult to buy them from remote places, as they cost a lot
i have sim motor.... but the Rubber insert inside my prop has come loose sooo when going just free spins... tried gluing it but only lasted 5 mins... found a cpl of places that seem to seem new ones but they cost More than i paid for whole boat an trailer??????
Hello much thanks for this informative video. I have a glass bowl that has 2 ports on it, I assume this is part of fuel deliver system its missing the hoses. Its is left of the two cylinders/plugs. I have yet to get a manual but was wondering if anyone knows what this is? Thanks DS
Hard to say. I'm not great at finding parts myself. I'd look at sites like Marineengine.com (my tiny channel obviously have no affiliation with them) for parts numbers, however I looked quickly just now and recoil starters for this motor show as unavailable. Another way you might go is to look on ebay/craigslist/facebook marketplace for the recoil starter itself, or for parts motors, which can usually be had for not too much money. I wish I could be of more help, and if anyone else knows please do share!
I know this video was from a while back, but do you remember if there was a rubber o ring on either of the flat head bolts for the lower unit oil fill? One of mine had one, but when I changed it, I forgot which it was top or bottom, and now when my motor sat for a while it leaked out. Thinking I put it back on the wrong one, or maybe there isn't supposed to be one at all.
I believe there should be a rubber O ring on at least the lower fill, but likely on the upper fill bolt as well, as they serve both to keep oil in and water out. It might be worth getting one of those O ring sets with all different sizes (they are relatively cheap for literally hundreds of them) for situations just like this.
The oil screws on my motor are a white plastic seal not an O ring. You can order them on line and I am looking at a parts diagram and shows a seal on both the fill hole and the overflow screw. Inspect you motor, look at your water pump, ignition parts etc. Save yourself time and money by paying shipping charges once vs. twice.
Update the skeg has big crack in it so I went on eBay and got one for 100 dollars it’s complete and is in good condition i got the motor on the cheap so I think it was a good investment for my project it’s too nice to junk it
Good to hear you got a replacement. Sounds like the old lower unit could have been more trouble than it's worth even without the crack. Glad to hear you're sticking with it!
The After Work Garage the only reason I’m going to restore this motor it has great compression and looks like low hours and was fresh water used only I have a 72 6hp fisherman I took out today on the jon boat it’s running great but would love to open her up and do the carburetor kit and points and coils I have all the parts just need to pull that flywheel off I never did it and don’t have the tool yet
The After Work Garage I got a puller today and got it off I had to get 1/4 20 bolts like you did as well and came off I got the lower gear case off what a pain in the ass 2 broken bolts had to drill and heat them off but it’s coming along I might do a complete overhaul on the motor depending on my time
The After Work Garage the reason that book said very bad news is probably why the lower unit is junk the shifter was broken and mashed in the gears lol very bad news is right
I don't see why not, though I doubt this motor would have the same corrosion protections (coatings and internal anodes) that modern engines do. I'd just keep the external anode in place and in good condition if you do.
The short answer is, that's the standard way of doing it. I'm sure there's a technical reason, but from a practical standpoint, with such a small fill hole, you'd have to inject the oil out of a very small tube or large needle to get it in the fill hole while allowing air back out. In automotive applications, many manual transmissions and differentials ARE filled from the top, but the fill hole is larger. Perhaps someone who knows could fill us in on the reasons why this is done differently for lower unit gear oil.
I believe the flywheel is keyed to the crankshaft with a woodruff key. If your flywheel can rotate relative to the crankshaft, this key may be broken or missing.
It's a reason why the carburetor looks odd...the low cowling. It's also the reason why it will run like shit if you have any ever-so-tiny exhaust leak, as the cowling will fill with exhaust gases and smother the engine.
i just got a 1976 9.5 evinrude ,,i have never done anything to an outboard ,but run one ,,so i will be needing your advice and knowledgalready e ,,if you can talk me thru a system to get this motor running ,first i am gonna put new plugs ,,the if it dont fire i need to pull the flywheel ,,what size socket do i need and what make ,it looks like a thin walled socket thanks subed
Hey Peter, thanks for reaching out. My best advice to you is to go through the motor in a similar manner to what I did in the video keeping in mind that a motor needs Fuel, Compression, and Spark to run. You can easily check for spark by pulling a plug and grounding it while turning it over as I showed in the video. Compression can be tested with a compression tester (or crudely felt by resistance on the pull rope), and for fuel I'd check the fuel pump to make sure it's pumping fuel, and it'd probably be worth cleaning the carburetor. If everything looks ok, give it a shot at starting up. As for the socket size, I can't remember the exact size, but a good set of metric and SAE sockets is definitely a worthwhile investment. I think an impact socket wouldn't fit, but a regular chrome socket had thin enough walls. Good luck, and lemme know if you have any further questions.
@@jimcatx3090 Not necessarily bad news, but definitely worth checking out. Does it still shift into gear normally? That would be a good sign. Shining a light in the drain hole, you may be able to get a sense of whether or not things are rusted up. If it shifts and looks relatively ok, then I'd pressure test it (you can buy cheap pressure test kits online) as the oil got out somehow, and if it wasn't drained before storage, then it likely got out through a bad seal. If it is bad, then you'll have to disassemble the lower unit, and replace/repair parts as needed. Good luck!
I did not end up having to take out the driveshaft, but it looks like depending on the year/model it's either splined into the pinion gear and simply pulls straight up and out once you get the impeller housing off, or it is held into the pinion gear by a key/key-way and c-clip that requires lower unit disassembly to remove. Good luck, and if I end up disassembling this lower unit, I'll be sure to make a video.
Thanks for the comment. I agree, in truth I mostly didn't want to be constantly switching back and fourth and getting stuck with half tanks or so of mixed gas when I wanted to use the 4 stroke.
Not quite sure what you mean here. I have actually since purchased a new impeller kit and installed it, and it looks similar to the one that I took out.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 78 | คู่เอก "ปกรณ์ vs ฟาบิโอ"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LSOmgl0Th2c/mqdefault.jpg)
If you haven't found it already there is an absolutely awesome site devoted to information on these motors. I wish I had done my homework and looked at this site before getting into this motor! The site link is listed below:
www.leeroysramblings.com/OMC_9.5.htm
I see you mention using 90w gear oil, however, I've read elsewhere to use only Type C gear oil since it is recommended by Johnson Evinrude. Some people have said it doesn't really matter unless you are using it on an electronic shifter because anything other than type c gear oils can deteriorate the electronics. If that's the case, would it still be best to use type c gear oil as it is recommended by the manufacturer?
@@mikemcgowan168 You are correct that Type C oil should be used in models with electronic shift (my old boat had one of these). I'm not an expert by any means, but my thoughts on 'conventional' lower units is that oil technology has come a long way since these motors were made, and modern marine lower unit gear oil will work just as well or better than Type C formulations.
@@TheAfterWorkGarage I was kind of thinking the same thing, and I've read a lot of material that hints the points you just mentioned. Thanks for your help.
Hi Andrew,
Great job being informative and entertaining. Got a similar motor from my grandparents house and now I get to keep a family motor going for my kids. Thanks!
That's a great reason to restore it. Good luck!
Well done..I just started working on a 1972. 9.5 Evinrude. All the information helps a lot.
Thank you! I'm glad it's helpful. Good luck with your motor!
You Sir are a absolute legend! This video is excellent. Thanks so very sorry much indeed for sharing! Very informative and educational. I've just scored a 50 year old Johnson Evinrude Sportwin 9.5hp in really lovely condition for her age. She has been stored away on a canal boat for around 16 years. She turns over well and the gear shifter functions! Can't wait to get started impeller change coils renewed! Carburettor serviced etc.....Once again thank you very much indeed for sharing this video. All very much appreciated.....Top man.
Thanks again for the kind words. Out of curiosity, what kind of boat are you putting it on?
Awesome video! I got my hands on a 1963 Sportwin and I'm rebuilding her as well (also had 65psi pressure test). iv learned a lot from you and i really like the fact that you show us every aspect even when you mess up, it really helps us all learn! I recently found out that if you flip that puller the other way so the flat surface is on top, it works much better!
Awesome, thank you so much!
Excellent videos on the evinrude 9.5hp. I just got mine started and knew there was something wrong. No water coming out of engine. You didnt specifically say how deep the otor how to be in the water but you mentioned the deep bucket. I am sure that will resolve my issue. Plus you made a great suggestion on checking the gear oil. My motor has been sitting for over 30 years. The only issues I had are with the fuel inlet and lifting and reverse mechanisms. Once again you did an awesome job and I actually watced all four videos.
Thanks for the kind words, and I'm glad you are getting to enjoy one of these motors. With regards to the water level, just make sure that the water is up to the level of the anti-ventilation plate. If you still have water issues and you have changed out the impeller, just start tracing the water system back to see if there is a blockage. Oftentimes pieces of an old shredded impeller, or pebbles can get lodged in the water passages and block water flow. Also be sure to check the thermostat (not shown in the video) to see if it is stuck shut.
Thanks for video, just found 9.5 Evinrude to work on
They are great little motors, and so far seem pretty indestructible. Good luck with yours!
Excellent video great explanations. Thanks! Also, careful pulling so much with the impeller out of the water.
Thank you, and that's a good point about the impeller.
Great job Fyi you can buy a puller set at Harbor freight For about $15, i used it yesterday and pulled the same flywheel that you're doing
The screw on the other side is to hold the shifting fork in place
Thank you! Yes, I found that out later and was very glad it all went back in lined up without having to disassemble the lower unit.
get the factory service manual.... seloc is the worst ever made. also you only need 3 pulls on the handle to get the comp up. 70-80 psi is great for those motors as they have a really low gear to make it turn the flywheel easier, but results in a lower cranking compression.
Shush got one and cannot believe you need to manually moves hooks to tilt motor. Prop is like new but loose on shaft. Have to check it out.
This is a great video I’m learning a lot
I'm glad it's helpful. I hope to continue making more videos in the near future, and get back on a more regular schedule. I'm currently finishing up writing my dissertation for my PhD, so that's been keeping me a bit tied up for the time being - but I'll get back to videos as soon as I can!
I have been finding parts very easy for Johnson and evinrude and there not expensive there are many 4,5.5,9.5 parts available on eBay and Amazon
My grandpa just told me to sell his boat's. The motor on one is a 9122r. I know it hasn't run in 20 years though.
I need help with a tutorial on replacing gearshift lever bushings, and the pillar cable that attaches to the gearshift lever built the engine
I just picked one of these up and couldn’t believe it would not tilt unless you manually pull the hooks down..Guess they added the lock/unlock later. Prop is like new but sloppy on shaft. Have to investigate that.
Congrats on the getting the motor. I have really liked this one, and good luck on prop shaft, hopefully it's something easy.
Put it in forward hooks raise up
good.actually the current in generated by magnets and coil as you say but the advancement of the stator makes the points become moved into a quicker break in points or retarded or slower brek in current or spark,makin it much more powerful or responsive or just straight up fire in combustion chamber at a more effective time.hence the term timing.love these old motors,these guys who developed these motors were nothing short of geniuses.like video.good luck.i have a 1966 looks almost identical.just paint diff.good motors.i have a 49 10 hp and a 53 johnsons also.cant beat those things.well heck if you got it cheap really great.
Thanks for sharing the information. Despite how common they are, I don't have a ton of experience with these kinds of ignition systems, as their primary usage was a bit before my time. It's something that I'd definitely like to become more proficient in.
Update on my 9.5 I got my eBay lower unit and looks in great shape for 65 dollars
I went to remove the old one and 2 of the 4 bolts broke off I broke one one was already missing they where very messed up
I stopped for the day to see how I can separate the old lower off I can’t seem to find anything how I’m going to get a thin bar and try to separate them then I’ll try some heat and let it cool a few times with some vice grips to get the studs out I hope it works
Hello, I am from Tunisia and I have the same engine, but it does not work and makes pops. I have a fault in the electricity. Please help me
(There are no spare parts for me)
Thank you
Hi Ammar, hard to say what the issue may be without more info. What makes you think it's an electrical problem? If you're sure it's electrical, I'd check all your connections and points. The popping sound could be a result of an exhaust backfire where unburned gas/air mixture is passing through when the engine fails to fire, then finally ignites when you do get intermittent spark. I also don't know what the shipping situation is like in Tunisia, but I have been told electrical components for this engine are available online. Good luck, I hope you track down the issue!
@@TheAfterWorkGarage salut coil problem .
@@TheAfterWorkGarage thank you I have a coil problem
@@ammaryassine7542 Ah, well at least you've identified the issue. I'd say ideally you'd need to track down a new coil, because it's only going to get worse. I'm not an electronics guy, so if there is a way to repair coils, I don't know how. One of the other commenters mentioned that coils for this motor are still readily available, so hopefully you can find one!
@@TheAfterWorkGarage Hello my friend
The problem is that there are no spare parts in my country, even the old used ones, and I find it difficult to buy them from remote places, as they cost a lot
Does anyone have a PDF file of 9.5hp repair manual?
Your compression is good actually..
Thanks, I have been told low-ish compression is just a quirk or this motor, and so far it's been running well.
Cpmpression is good at 65psi for these engines. Of course higher is better but 65 is ok
i have sim motor.... but the Rubber insert inside my prop has come loose sooo when going just free spins... tried gluing it but only lasted 5 mins... found a cpl of places that seem to seem new ones but they cost More than i paid for whole boat an trailer??????
Prop is only abt 80?
Hello much thanks for this informative video. I have a glass bowl that has 2 ports on it, I assume this is part of fuel deliver system its missing the hoses. Its is left of the two cylinders/plugs. I have yet to get a manual but was wondering if anyone knows what this is? Thanks DS
I'm looking for a rewind starter for this exact motor... any ideas?
Hard to say. I'm not great at finding parts myself. I'd look at sites like Marineengine.com (my tiny channel obviously have no affiliation with them) for parts numbers, however I looked quickly just now and recoil starters for this motor show as unavailable.
Another way you might go is to look on ebay/craigslist/facebook marketplace for the recoil starter itself, or for parts motors, which can usually be had for not too much money. I wish I could be of more help, and if anyone else knows please do share!
the screw you took out on the other side is for the shift pinion
Shift dog
I know this video was from a while back, but do you remember if there was a rubber o ring on either of the flat head bolts for the lower unit oil fill? One of mine had one, but when I changed it, I forgot which it was top or bottom, and now when my motor sat for a while it leaked out. Thinking I put it back on the wrong one, or maybe there isn't supposed to be one at all.
I believe there should be a rubber O ring on at least the lower fill, but likely on the upper fill bolt as well, as they serve both to keep oil in and water out. It might be worth getting one of those O ring sets with all different sizes (they are relatively cheap for literally hundreds of them) for situations just like this.
The oil screws on my motor are a white plastic seal not an O ring. You can order them on line and I am looking at a parts diagram and shows a seal on both the fill hole and the overflow screw. Inspect you motor, look at your water pump, ignition parts etc. Save yourself time and money by paying shipping charges once vs. twice.
Update the skeg has big crack in it so I went on eBay and got one for 100 dollars it’s complete and is in good condition i got the motor on the cheap so I think it was a good investment for my project it’s too nice to junk it
Good to hear you got a replacement. Sounds like the old lower unit could have been more trouble than it's worth even without the crack. Glad to hear you're sticking with it!
The After Work Garage the only reason I’m going to restore this motor it has great compression and looks like low hours and was fresh water used only
I have a 72 6hp fisherman I took out today on the jon boat it’s running great but would love to open her up and do the carburetor kit and points and coils I have all the parts just need to pull that flywheel off I never did it and don’t have the tool yet
@@jimcatx3090 Pullers are always good to have around, but if you don't want to buy one, you can rent them free from auto parts stores like o'reiley.
The After Work Garage I got a puller today and got it off I had to get 1/4 20 bolts like you did as well and came off I got the lower gear case off what a pain in the ass 2 broken bolts had to drill and heat them off but it’s coming along I might do a complete overhaul on the motor depending on my time
The After Work Garage the reason that book said very bad news is probably why the lower unit is junk the shifter was broken and mashed in the gears lol very bad news is right
Can this motor be used in saltwater?
I don't see why not, though I doubt this motor would have the same corrosion protections (coatings and internal anodes) that modern engines do. I'd just keep the external anode in place and in good condition if you do.
Why didn't you just fill the lower unit gear oil from the top
The short answer is, that's the standard way of doing it. I'm sure there's a technical reason, but from a practical standpoint, with such a small fill hole, you'd have to inject the oil out of a very small tube or large needle to get it in the fill hole while allowing air back out. In automotive applications, many manual transmissions and differentials ARE filled from the top, but the fill hole is larger. Perhaps someone who knows could fill us in on the reasons why this is done differently for lower unit gear oil.
You fill from the lower to push any air pockets out of the lower unit. Fill until oil runs out of the top hole.
What point does the fly wheel have to Line up at ?
I believe the flywheel is keyed to the crankshaft with a woodruff key. If your flywheel can rotate relative to the crankshaft, this key may be broken or missing.
It's a reason why the carburetor looks odd...the low cowling. It's also the reason why it will run like shit if you have any ever-so-tiny exhaust leak, as the cowling will fill with exhaust gases and smother the engine.
i just got a 1976 9.5 evinrude ,,i have never done anything to an outboard ,but run one ,,so i will be needing your advice and knowledgalready e ,,if you can talk me thru a system to get this motor running ,first i am gonna put new plugs ,,the if it dont fire i need to pull the flywheel ,,what size socket do i need and what make ,it looks like a thin walled socket thanks subed
Hey Peter, thanks for reaching out. My best advice to you is to go through the motor in a similar manner to what I did in the video keeping in mind that a motor needs Fuel, Compression, and Spark to run. You can easily check for spark by pulling a plug and grounding it while turning it over as I showed in the video. Compression can be tested with a compression tester (or crudely felt by resistance on the pull rope), and for fuel I'd check the fuel pump to make sure it's pumping fuel, and it'd probably be worth cleaning the carburetor. If everything looks ok, give it a shot at starting up.
As for the socket size, I can't remember the exact size, but a good set of metric and SAE sockets is definitely a worthwhile investment. I think an impact socket wouldn't fit, but a regular chrome socket had thin enough walls. Good luck, and lemme know if you have any further questions.
I just got one today for 40 dollars and it turns over going to work on it soon
Sounds like you got a great deal. Good luck with your motor!
Got bad news was working on the 9.5 and there was no oil in the lower unit what should i do ?
@@jimcatx3090 Not necessarily bad news, but definitely worth checking out. Does it still shift into gear normally? That would be a good sign. Shining a light in the drain hole, you may be able to get a sense of whether or not things are rusted up. If it shifts and looks relatively ok, then I'd pressure test it (you can buy cheap pressure test kits online) as the oil got out somehow, and if it wasn't drained before storage, then it likely got out through a bad seal.
If it is bad, then you'll have to disassemble the lower unit, and replace/repair parts as needed. Good luck!
The After Work Garage bad news is all rusted up I’m going to fill it with marvel mystery oil for a few weeks
It shifts into neutral and forward no reverse it’s bound up good thing it runs on the 3rd pull
I have this same motor, there is no spark though, compression yes. Any advice? Thank you!
Replace the coils on it. They’re cheap and available on eBay or boat parts websites
I agree with Andrew Thacker. Start by checking the cables and the coils. These motors are thankfully much simpler electronically than modern ones!
Nope there actually the same coil as the old 4 and 6 hp Johnson there ever were
Awesome to hear, and thanks for sharing. I'm not an expert by any means, so it just always scares me to see old electronics.
Do you know how to get the driveshaft out?
I did not end up having to take out the driveshaft, but it looks like depending on the year/model it's either splined into the pinion gear and simply pulls straight up and out once you get the impeller housing off, or it is held into the pinion gear by a key/key-way and c-clip that requires lower unit disassembly to remove. Good luck, and if I end up disassembling this lower unit, I'll be sure to make a video.
The After Work Garage thank you
A small amount of 2 stroke oil would not hurt your 4 stroke in the least.
Thanks for the comment. I agree, in truth I mostly didn't want to be constantly switching back and fourth and getting stuck with half tanks or so of mixed gas when I wanted to use the 4 stroke.
This motors don't have very high compression. 70psi is fine! Mine has the same
Calico MortyCash mine has 115 in each I guess I’m lucky the lower unit not so lucky
@@jimcatx3090 no your gauge is way off! they never have more than 85psi.
Thank you, I have heard this several times and it seems to be correct!
Normal compression for these motors are 65 to 70! You get 80 and over get a better quality compression tester
You are wrong sir. Coils run less than $20 Ing. kits less then $20 there are literly 10's of thousands were made and parts are the same way!!
Thank you this is very helpful! I am glad you can correct me on this!
That's a shear pin
To hell with those neighbors! Get that impact out!
WRONG IMPELLOR?
Not quite sure what you mean here. I have actually since purchased a new impeller kit and installed it, and it looks similar to the one that I took out.
@@TheAfterWorkGarage Oh I thought it looked different
@@kevinsacia7001 They get all bent and weird after being in there for a while. the one I took out in that video really needed to be replaced.
Can you please turn my 9.5 up I'll bring it to you thanks I'm eric