watched this live yesterday and got a bit worried for ai coming into the lead part because of the boulder scores but man when she was at the part where everyone fell and she was just like c r u i s i n g, i thought man u worried for nothing haha😅 also in the interview she said she got a lot left in the tank and i was like you really did. so happy for her and anraku
Ai Mori's Techniques for more REACH : th-cam.com/video/t7Fewv2pEdk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=BoulderingHighlights Japan Bouldering Cup 2023: th-cam.com/video/4bWxLXa96Js/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=BoulderingHighlights 0:00 Bouldering 2:09 W2 4:44 Ai Mori 5:28 W3 14:19 W4 20:45 Lead
Thanks for another great upload! As a non-climber I find this sport fascinating, and your commentary really helps since I don't know the technical side of things.
I appreciate the upload and the commentary! Respectfully though I found your eating sounds to be really distracting so i did end up muting for sections
In the scoring format flashing boulders or not isn't really a big deal. Extra attempts is just -0.1 so it's not a big deal to have many tries. It will only affect how much you have left for the lead
@@luciapseudonym6082 it is fair enough if you consider that there are lead specialist competing too. If you punish bouldering scores too much, bouldering specialist might not catch up to lead scores.
@@enderlain385 funny, I thought exactly the opposite! Bouldering specialists who send the boulders in few attempts are penalized if attempts count so little. If attempts were -0.5, there would be more difference between a boulder specialist who flashes the boulders and a non-specialist who needs lot of attempts.
They have 5 spots for Bern. They posted that Ai and Anon got the spot for Berns, then the other 3 spots will be decided based on results of World Cups in Lead and Boulders. Maybe that's why Nonaka Miho didn't look that happy at podium and Ai didn't talk to her much in their seats while waiting for medal presentation. She didn't even look much in her direction coz she knows the implications of the podium. Now, they will be really motivated to do their best in every World Cup. Their ticket will depend on it. Very brutal selections while other countries have selected players even without competing for it. It also makes sense for Ai coz she said she won't be able to attend all the comps. For the men's side, I think Anraku, Meichi, and Ao got their tickets with only 2 left thru WC pts. Notable seniors competing for those spot are Tomoa, Ogata, Fujii.
Kokoro has posted his road to Paris has ended. If I understand the JMSCA criteria correctly, the last 2 spots for men will look at their rankings in a best-performing BWC and LWC. Kokoro did not make the LWC team this year whereas Tomoa did (albeit lower in the list) and Yoshiyuki is an IFSC automatic qualifier. I think it's probably the case that the men's spots will go to Tomoa and Yoshiyuki, although I don't think Kokoro is 100% out of the picture (depends on how the other 2 do for LWC).
@@isabelnecessary5915 Climbers JP - she said for BWC she’s doing Hachioji, Seoul, and Innsbruck (so probably lead at Innsbruck too). Then she has a holiday in Sep so probably Koper again, and Bern before that
Mori Ai is really talented in leading as she can always find the best sequence to get to the top with very few mistakes. She knows her ability very well and always able to use techniques to overcome her weaknesses. Probably we will see Mori Ai fighting for the gold medal in Paris 2024. Prediction: Mori Ai and Miho will represent Japan for the coming Olympics At least one of them will end up on the podium
She is a freaking genius. Definitely you see in some moments her height working against her, W3 especially, but when you see the super compressed positions that she's able to take, you can see how she uses height to her advantage as well
Very interesting and knowledgeable commentary - BUT perhaps hold off on the mid-climb predictions: "And she should top this no trouble" = instantly falls; "She should be up there for a medal..." instantly falls!! You put the mockers on them every time you say that! How about we just watch and see for ourselves?
so funny how Ai Mori cruises past all the moves that other climbers fell off of. you really see her genius climbing shine in these moments; she just comes up with some innovative beta that makes everyone else look foolish. unfortunate with the bouldering, that W3 looked very height-y with that huge reaching jump from the 5
wow thanks for upload and spot on commentating as always. I agree that is impressive to swap those fingers with that toe hook. in the bouldering section Mori almost looked intimidated "here we go again with the disadvantege for shorter climbers!", but she got her revenge in the end 😀
Tough to call it a comeback considering the athletes never compete against each other (unlike in speed climbing, which is not my preferred format), and Amy is a bouldering specialist, so it’s not fair to call it a choke either. Ai Mori does struggle a lot more in the bouldering section of the combined format, but at this point, can anyone say they ever expect to see her fall in the lead section? She has 100 pts assured, every. single. time! She is outstanding!
It's funny that you pointed out one of the competitor was known to not smile a lot lol. As a european women i was just thinking how 'feminine' (as in 'girly' and 'apologetic') all those climbers seem to me ;) I feel the same about the great Jain Kim... but I'm sure there are nuances that i just can't detect, and it's cool to see feminine badasses
Dang I really loved your expressions with the commentary. “Ohhhh” “Aiiii” “Ahhhh” really felt genuine. Great vid!
30:59
Anon said "gamba" to Ai who was competing for the championship.
That's why we love climbing
watched this live yesterday and got a bit worried for ai coming into the lead part because of the boulder scores but man when she was at the part where everyone fell and she was just like c r u i s i n g, i thought man u worried for nothing haha😅 also in the interview she said she got a lot left in the tank and i was like you really did. so happy for her and anraku
i worried for nothing lmao
Ai Mori's Techniques for more REACH : th-cam.com/video/t7Fewv2pEdk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=BoulderingHighlights
Japan Bouldering Cup 2023: th-cam.com/video/4bWxLXa96Js/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=BoulderingHighlights
0:00 Bouldering
2:09 W2
4:44 Ai Mori
5:28 W3
14:19 W4
20:45 Lead
Thanks for another great upload! As a non-climber I find this sport fascinating, and your commentary really helps since I don't know the technical side of things.
Glad you enjoy it! Welcome to climbing
You are a legend, I can see myself an entire competition thanks to you and your commentary. keep it up!!
Wow, thanks!
I appreciate the upload and the commentary! Respectfully though I found your eating sounds to be really distracting so i did end up muting for sections
Sorry about that i was hungry haha will avoid it next time xD
every body born with talent,ai mori in climbing
I love that comment " She's arguably The best combine female athlete in the World"
Great commentary! Thanks😂
Excellent, thanks for posting
Glad you enjoyed it
In the scoring format flashing boulders or not isn't really a big deal. Extra attempts is just -0.1 so it's not a big deal to have many tries. It will only affect how much you have left for the lead
thanks! kinda wish a flash would have more weighting but the scoring system seems pretty good
I think it should be -0.5, it would be more fair. It sounds a bit unfair that extra attempts almost don't affect the score.
@@luciapseudonym6082 it is fair enough if you consider that there are lead specialist competing too. If you punish bouldering scores too much, bouldering specialist might not catch up to lead scores.
@@enderlain385 funny, I thought exactly the opposite! Bouldering specialists who send the boulders in few attempts are penalized if attempts count so little. If attempts were -0.5, there would be more difference between a boulder specialist who flashes the boulders and a non-specialist who needs lot of attempts.
Thank you for the fast upload and great content, but please please please STOP eating while commentating.
I love your commentary, the IFSC should hire you!
thanks man! awesome commentary!
mate! nibbling nuts as you deliver the com... top man!!!
They have 5 spots for Bern. They posted that Ai and Anon got the spot for Berns, then the other 3 spots will be decided based on results of World Cups in Lead and Boulders. Maybe that's why Nonaka Miho didn't look that happy at podium and Ai didn't talk to her much in their seats while waiting for medal presentation. She didn't even look much in her direction coz she knows the implications of the podium. Now, they will be really motivated to do their best in every World Cup. Their ticket will depend on it. Very brutal selections while other countries have selected players even without competing for it. It also makes sense for Ai coz she said she won't be able to attend all the comps. For the men's side, I think Anraku, Meichi, and Ao got their tickets with only 2 left thru WC pts. Notable seniors competing for those spot are Tomoa, Ogata, Fujii.
Kokoro has posted his road to Paris has ended. If I understand the JMSCA criteria correctly, the last 2 spots for men will look at their rankings in a best-performing BWC and LWC. Kokoro did not make the LWC team this year whereas Tomoa did (albeit lower in the list) and Yoshiyuki is an IFSC automatic qualifier. I think it's probably the case that the men's spots will go to Tomoa and Yoshiyuki, although I don't think Kokoro is 100% out of the picture (depends on how the other 2 do for LWC).
@@YukiStori yeah. Didn't check to see if he was eligible to compete fo lead wc.
Where did you see Ai saying she wouldn’t be competing in all the world cups? Did she say which ones she would be competing in?
@@isabelnecessary5915 Climbers JP - she said for BWC she’s doing Hachioji, Seoul, and Innsbruck (so probably lead at Innsbruck too). Then she has a holiday in Sep so probably Koper again, and Bern before that
@@YukiStori amazing, thanks for letting me know!
I enjoy your explanation, I can feel I am watching it with you😂
Mori Ai is really talented in leading as she can always find the best sequence to get to the top with very few mistakes. She knows her ability very well and always able to use techniques to overcome her weaknesses.
Probably we will see Mori Ai fighting for the gold medal in Paris 2024.
Prediction:
Mori Ai and Miho will represent Japan for the coming Olympics
At least one of them will end up on the podium
who do you think will join Ai mori at the olympics?
@@BoulderingHighlights you mean representing japan team?
I have said it🤣
@@BoulderingHighlights I think Miho Nonaka or Futaba Ito.
She is a freaking genius. Definitely you see in some moments her height working against her, W3 especially, but when you see the super compressed positions that she's able to take, you can see how she uses height to her advantage as well
Thank you SO MUCH for this content, it's trully amazing! Love this format and your insights on the climbs
Glad you enjoy it!
Stop chewing while filming!
Hype!
Futaba looking much stromger than last year so far. Is this her year?
Feels like it but she has so much competition!
Also probably more in Bouldering than combined or lead climbing.
@adamondra are people just allowed to use your photo for their own TH-cam channels like this?
Great video! What was the end result of the final?
1st AiMori
2nd Anon Matsufuji
3rd Miho Nonaka
Thanks for the upload and commentary!!
Any time!
Anon is dripped out in the undercover
great commentary, you bring so much passion out of these incredible competition, thx for your uploads
When are you gonna cover the menss
Men's videos are not as popular and don't do well on TH-cam. I'll have them for members of the channel soon ;)
Hi :) Are you japanese ? Thanks for your videos, super nice
Im Malaysian what bout you?
@@BoulderingHighlights Ok. You speak super good english (much better than me) :) Me I'm french, and thanks again for the videos, very nice
My hero Ai Mori. I love you.
open hand to toe hook swap is not happening for this old man. That was nuts!
Great editing, content and commentary. Thanks a lot, the dramaturgy was very pleasing !
What's dramaturgy?
Impressive. Maybe one day… well, not in this life.
Amazing video. That lead climb from Mori was ridiculous ! Your commentary is on point. More videos please !
Very interesting and knowledgeable commentary - BUT perhaps hold off on the mid-climb predictions: "And she should top this no trouble" = instantly falls; "She should be up there for a medal..." instantly falls!! You put the mockers on them every time you say that! How about we just watch and see for ourselves?
thanks for the feedback :) im always looking to improve
a pity that Natsuki didn't make it in the qualifiers. this lead looks like something she can top.
so funny how Ai Mori cruises past all the moves that other climbers fell off of. you really see her genius climbing shine in these moments; she just comes up with some innovative beta that makes everyone else look foolish. unfortunate with the bouldering, that W3 looked very height-y with that huge reaching jump from the 5
wow thanks for upload and spot on commentating as always. I agree that is impressive to swap those fingers with that toe hook. in the bouldering section Mori almost looked intimidated "here we go again with the disadvantege for shorter climbers!", but she got her revenge in the end 😀
Good to have you here King!
and yes what a huge swinging comeback for ai haha i was deceived!
Tough to call it a comeback considering the athletes never compete against each other (unlike in speed climbing, which is not my preferred format), and Amy is a bouldering specialist, so it’s not fair to call it a choke either.
Ai Mori does struggle a lot more in the bouldering section of the combined format, but at this point, can anyone say they ever expect to see her fall in the lead section? She has 100 pts assured, every. single. time!
She is outstanding!
she has been amazing!
She must be the biggest introvert out there, lol.
thanks for the commentary and fast upload
It's funny that you pointed out one of the competitor was known to not smile a lot lol. As a european women i was just thinking how 'feminine' (as in 'girly' and 'apologetic') all those climbers seem to me ;) I feel the same about the great Jain Kim... but I'm sure there are nuances that i just can't detect, and it's cool to see feminine badasses
DAMN IMORI IS INSANE 5FT DAMN
Thxs Bro, exzellent work 🙏👍💪, äh, and Miho is 3rd or?
yea miho 3rd
I love your commentary 😄
Thanks ✌️ 😊
Aiちゃん、凄いよね。
柔らかくスルスル登って行くから、楽しくてしょうがないｗ
それにしてもみんな凄いよ！
She is amazing!
Great video man!! Would be cool to see the scoreboard from time to time, although maybe they werent showin it during the broadcast.
Good call!
keep up the great work !