Thanks, you inspired me to have the confidence to do this myself. I do need to put on that background tune you used so I can remain patient when something goes wrong or I need to bleed the damper again.
When you put the air spring back in you got air trapped in the negative air chamber because the entire assembly wasn’t together when you inserted it. You can tell you have air trapped there because in the video when you pull the air spring to test that the snap ring is in place you can see the air spring suck itself back up when you let go. There is an air exchange dimple on the inside of the stanchion which will help equalize the pressure but if this was my fork I would remove the air spring and then re insert it correctly so there is no suck down. Also you should inflate the air spring to at least 20psi before putting the lowers on, this also helps remove suck down, and lastly you should actuate the fork 10 times every 20 psi you put into the fork. This helps equalize the positive and negative air chambers so that you will have an accurate psi reading when you put your shock pump on it. It also helps prevent suck down. I work on suspension professionally and these little steps make a huge difference for small bump compliance. That first 0-20mm of travel will not be active with a fork that is stuck down, causing it to feel harsh and you loose you small bump compliance. Also when letting air out both with the shock and fork actuate them 10 times for every 10 psi to prevent suck down. This is super important with the shock as suck down on a shock can be dangerous.
@@bobsaget3841 Hey Bob, very good info. Does "keeping the spring together during install" still come into play with the new 2023 Pike? It has a different spacer from previous air springs that the c-clip rests against is why I ask.
@ThunderStruckMTB yes, it should always be done on rockshox and fox products. The fork will equalize when you cycle it after service, but by keeping everything together you eliminate the potential of getting a small pocket of air trapped.
First thing i recommend to remove the pressure from the positive and negative chamber (remove the air valve after you depresurise the posetive chamber and pus and pull the lower leg till you hear the negative air depresurising)
Amazing tutorial Oreste. I'm struggling to find the right oil for my RockShox SID RL3, so I' searching the net to find the proper one.. Thanks for sharing
Great video! Tank you so much! I have a question. I’ve seen other videos of other people putting Rock Shox 0w-30 on the foam rings and bottles. I have a Lyric 2018 and for my fork the manual says to use Maxima Plush oil en the foam rings and bottles, and only use the 0w-30 oil on the damper. So following the manual strictly I purchased both oils. My question is ¿which oil is better for the Rings and the bottles? ¿Why are you using 0w-30 oil instead of maxima plush?
Great video! Tank you so much! I have a question. I’ve seen other videos of other people putting Rock Shox 0w-30 on the foam rings and bottles. I have a Lyric 2018 and for my fork the manual says to use Maxima Plush oil en the foam rings and bottles, and only use the 0w-30 oil on the damper. So following the manual strictly I purchased both oils. My question is ¿which oil is better for the Rings and the bottles? ¿Why are you using 0w-30 oil instead of maxima plush? Greetings from México!
Shouldn't there be 3cc of oil in the top air chamber? If I remeber correctly it depends on the seal grease you use, but I am not completely sure. And you forgot the new sag ring. Happened to me, too! 🙂
Yes depends on the grease you use! In this moment I'm not even sure, i should check the manual! Yes after i recorded the video...i did a second lower leg removal 😂😂😂
Hello Haru! No it's correct, the air seal head of the kit was different from the original one and in the video i used the correct orientation as shown in the manual 👍 Thanks i will do 😎✌
Thanks for a great tutorial. Did you mange to replace your rebound damper knob? As if not, I don't think it would be hard to 3D print a knob that you could glue an hex key into.
Thanks David 🙏 In 1 year no chance to find it, but at the end since I do not change the rebound during the tour, I just use a normal 3mm hex when needed during maintenance!
13:45 Bleeding the damper was wrong. You should pull on the syringe to create vacuum and draw air bubbles out, not to push against the piston all the time.
this is not how the manual describes the procedure, so i'm not sure if pulling the syringe is correct. I had anyway no bubbles left in the system, how you can see at 14:12
@@OresteCiotoli Indeed in the manual the procedure is as you describe it but check out some other videos on bleeding the charger damper. I bet your fork makes squeaking sound while going through mid size compressions. That's the small air bubbles still trapped in the fluid. It's pretty hard to get out most of them - many suspension shops even use vacuum machines to suck the air out. If you ever bled your brakes - it's the same principle - create vacuum with a vertical syringe -> air gets trapped on top of the syringe -> push back the oil -> repeat.
You push and pull the syringe during the bleed. While you are pushing the damper up simulating going deep into its travel you pull up on the syringe at the same as you are pushing the shaft, then while pulling the shaft back down you push the syringe plunger down keeping a constant pressure in the system. The rockshox manual isn’t super clear so it’s hard to understand.
@@rbt1.0 I bleed my brakes this way too and it works perfect! Everyone complains about magura brakes being hard to bleed but this way my brakes are as snappy as I like it. Glad to hear your tip!
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Thanks, you inspired me to have the confidence to do this myself. I do need to put on that background tune you used so I can remain patient when something goes wrong or I need to bleed the damper again.
Glad to hear that 👍🏻😃, yes the tune is not casual but it's not for everyone taste !
When you put the air spring back in you got air trapped in the negative air chamber because the entire assembly wasn’t together when you inserted it. You can tell you have air trapped there because in the video when you pull the air spring to test that the snap ring is in place you can see the air spring suck itself back up when you let go. There is an air exchange dimple on the inside of the stanchion which will help equalize the pressure but if this was my fork I would remove the air spring and then re insert it correctly so there is no suck down. Also you should inflate the air spring to at least 20psi before putting the lowers on, this also helps remove suck down, and lastly you should actuate the fork 10 times every 20 psi you put into the fork. This helps equalize the positive and negative air chambers so that you will have an accurate psi reading when you put your shock pump on it. It also helps prevent suck down. I work on suspension professionally and these little steps make a huge difference for small bump compliance. That first 0-20mm of travel will not be active with a fork that is stuck down, causing it to feel harsh and you loose you small bump compliance. Also when letting air out both with the shock and fork actuate them 10 times for every 10 psi to prevent suck down. This is super important with the shock as suck down on a shock can be dangerous.
Bob thanks a lot for the incredible useful explanation! I will definitely follow these steps in the next services, gold advices...🙌🙏
@@OresteCiotoli Glad to help! Happy riding 🚵
@@bobsaget3841 Hey Bob, very good info. Does "keeping the spring together during install" still come into play with the new 2023 Pike? It has a different spacer from previous air springs that the c-clip rests against is why I ask.
@ThunderStruckMTB yes, it should always be done on rockshox and fox products. The fork will equalize when you cycle it after service, but by keeping everything together you eliminate the potential of getting a small pocket of air trapped.
Hello, please what do u mean by "entire assembly wasnt together" ? im doing it right now... and would love to know the correct way.. thanks much
Great tutorial Oreste, I'm sure this video will be used and appreciated by many bikers. Good work. Keep it up and ride on
Thanks a lot Christoph💯
Thank you for a great video. This taught me that I will just take it to the shop. This was very valuable information! :)
@@shaunoleary8740 ahahahah no problem man 🤣, yes it's not for everyone
First thing i recommend to remove the pressure from the positive and negative chamber (remove the air valve after you depresurise the posetive chamber and pus and pull the lower leg till you hear the negative air depresurising)
That's a good advice 🤜🏻
thanks , this vid will help me a ton on my next Lyrik Full service ...keep up the good work man!
You are welcome man🙏👊🏻, glad it helped 💯
Very good, Oreste. You are the bicycle surgeon.
🤣🤣😍🤝
Amazing tutorial Oreste. I'm struggling to find the right oil for my RockShox SID RL3, so I' searching the net to find the proper one.. Thanks for sharing
Thanks and you are welcome! I think you should find on the Rockshox website, if not I will ask them directly 👌🏻
thank you very much, you are very precision and more information
sorry for my english
Thanks a lot man 🤝🏻👋🏻😎 (edit: ah ho visto ora che sei italiano, grazie! 😁)
Very good tutorial thank you!!
You are welcome! 👊
Great Video … it helped me service my Forks .. new SuB 👍. Keep up the good videos
Thanks a lot Noker 🙏
Awesome 👏
Thanks 🙏 😃
Good video, thank you! Will definitely be using this
You are welcome man 🤝🏻👍🏻
Thank you so much for this!
You are welcome 👌🏻
Awesome job this should this
Thanks man 🙏
Great video! Tank you so much! I have a question. I’ve seen other videos of other people putting Rock Shox 0w-30 on the foam rings and bottles. I have a Lyric 2018 and for my fork the manual says to use Maxima Plush oil en the foam rings and bottles, and only use the 0w-30 oil on the damper. So following the manual strictly I purchased both oils. My question is ¿which oil is better for the Rings and the bottles? ¿Why are you using 0w-30 oil instead of maxima plush?
replied to the other comment ;)
Great video! Tank you so much! I have a question. I’ve seen other videos of other people putting Rock Shox 0w-30 on the foam rings and bottles. I have a Lyric 2018 and for my fork the manual says to use Maxima Plush oil en the foam rings and bottles, and only use the 0w-30 oil on the damper. So following the manual strictly I purchased both oils. My question is ¿which oil is better for the Rings and the bottles? ¿Why are you using 0w-30 oil instead of maxima plush?
Greetings from México!
Thanks man 🤝🏻 I just follow strictly what the service manual says, so I will go for the oil that the manual suggests👌🏻
Nice tutorial.
Thanks Karl!🙏
Gran bel video...vediamo se riesco a distruggere la mia zeb provando a farmi il service da solo
Shouldn't there be 3cc of oil in the top air chamber? If I remeber correctly it depends on the seal grease you use, but I am not completely sure. And you forgot the new sag ring. Happened to me, too! 🙂
Yes depends on the grease you use! In this moment I'm not even sure, i should check the manual! Yes after i recorded the video...i did a second lower leg removal 😂😂😂
I see you have to pull out the damper shift after you checked the bleed. Is it normal? Or there's a repeat bleed?
Yes this is the procedure, checking that is working as described. If not, then repeat the bleed 👌🏻
Thx for the cool vid.. your vid is like the manual but actual. got mine serviced after 4 years yesterday
@@sydmichael13 great! Yes i use the manual as a guide, also to do the video properly 👌🏻
Goodd tuto 👍👍👍👍
Merci beaucoup 👊❤
Im not 100% sure but i think you put the air spring seal head in the wrong way great tutorail tho keep up the good work 🙌
Hello Haru! No it's correct, the air seal head of the kit was different from the original one and in the video i used the correct orientation as shown in the manual 👍 Thanks i will do 😎✌
It's right
Very nice and like 7
🤝🏻🤝🏻🤝🏻
Thanks for a great tutorial. Did you mange to replace your rebound damper knob? As if not, I don't think it would be hard to 3D print a knob that you could glue an hex key into.
Thanks David 🙏 In 1 year no chance to find it, but at the end since I do not change the rebound during the tour, I just use a normal 3mm hex when needed during maintenance!
13:45 Bleeding the damper was wrong. You should pull on the syringe to create vacuum and draw air bubbles out, not to push against the piston all the time.
this is not how the manual describes the procedure, so i'm not sure if pulling the syringe is correct. I had anyway no bubbles left in the system, how you can see at 14:12
@@OresteCiotoli Indeed in the manual the procedure is as you describe it but check out some other videos on bleeding the charger damper. I bet your fork makes squeaking sound while going through mid size compressions. That's the small air bubbles still trapped in the fluid. It's pretty hard to get out most of them - many suspension shops even use vacuum machines to suck the air out. If you ever bled your brakes - it's the same principle - create vacuum with a vertical syringe -> air gets trapped on top of the syringe -> push back the oil -> repeat.
@@rbt1.0 my fork works without problem, but I will try the vacuum the next time for sure 👌🏻
You push and pull the syringe during the bleed. While you are pushing the damper up simulating going deep into its travel you pull up on the syringe at the same as you are pushing the shaft, then while pulling the shaft back down you push the syringe plunger down keeping a constant pressure in the system. The rockshox manual isn’t super clear so it’s hard to understand.
@@rbt1.0 I bleed my brakes this way too and it works perfect! Everyone complains about magura brakes being hard to bleed but this way my brakes are as snappy as I like it. Glad to hear your tip!
еп ну вот как тут покупать бу вилки в России если чел без проставок зажимает дэмфер в тисках... еще и учит как делать...