This is tremendously helpful, thank you! Cpuld you please help me understand how to adapt this for a 220V supply? Can the same contactor be used, simplty swapping the L2 with the neutral?
I've been looking for this very thing. So glad you took the time to go thru how you did it. I've seen Clough 42's video and most of it's over my head- you made it simple to follow. I have a step pulley mill and still want a pot to change speeds within the steps. Plus, my rotary switch is more than 30 yrs old-it's got HiForward, LoForward and the same for reverse. I don't like the switch and want my VFD to control it all. Sound like a good candidate for the setup you made? Thank you again for explaining it all and including your parts list!
Nice video--the wiring diagrams are incredibly helpful. Anyone wire this setup with a L510-201? I'm trying to figure out what contactor to use and how to wire the remote controls for a 220v input. I initially used a Fuji Electric SC-E1 contactor but can't get the normally open start switch to activate the coil.
Do you have any insight as to why my contacter gets hot and smokes after 5 minutes? I’ve rechecked my wiring and the vfd seems to work fine. The contacter will eventually get too hot and pop and my second one is doing it too. I’ve ordered everything from your provided links. Could it be poor quality parts?
Not sure but sometimes heat is caused by resistance which is caused by bad connections. I’d start by making sure that all of the wires are appropriately sized and all of the screw terminals are nice and tight.
Which gauge wire did you use for hot and neutral wires at the contacter? Aside from that detail I’ve ordered every product you had linked and found the 18ga security shielded wire.
Know its stupid but 99% of machines that have a forward, off, reverse selector switch for some unknown reason forward was always on the right side. Best to have every selector switch operate the same. Only used a green wire to designate that its a ground wire.
Just amazing skills and willingness to give others the opportunity to learn. Thank you!!
i just found your channel and clough42. great resources! i am repowering my 1940's wood lathe with its 12 speed belt drive to a vfd, same vfd actually
So helpful! Well produced! Spot on with all that needed to be said! Thank you!!! I look forward to using this for my lathe.
Glad it was helpful!
Looks good, most vfd manufactures would want you to scrape the enclosure paint on the ground lug.
That’s a really good idea and something that I overlooked.
This is tremendously helpful, thank you! Cpuld you please help me understand how to adapt this for a 220V supply? Can the same contactor be used, simplty swapping the L2 with the neutral?
I've been looking for this very thing. So glad you took the time to go thru how you did it. I've seen Clough 42's video and most of it's over my head- you made it simple to follow. I have a step pulley mill and still want a pot to change speeds within the steps. Plus, my rotary switch is more than 30 yrs old-it's got HiForward, LoForward and the same for reverse. I don't like the switch and want my VFD to control it all. Sound like a good candidate for the setup you made? Thank you again for explaining it all and including your parts list!
Thank you so much for your thorough explanation! Great job! Subscribed
most helpful, thanks for sharing!
Nice video--the wiring diagrams are incredibly helpful.
Anyone wire this setup with a L510-201? I'm trying to figure out what contactor to use and how to wire the remote controls for a 220v input. I initially used a Fuji Electric SC-E1 contactor but can't get the normally open start switch to activate the coil.
For the switch, did you buy the 8 terminal 20A? What determines the number of terminals you need?
Good job.
To be fair your wiring explanation is as clear as mud ?
I mean, there are straight up diagrams. What part is confusing? Maybe I can explain it better.
Do you have any insight as to why my contacter gets hot and smokes after 5 minutes? I’ve rechecked my wiring and the vfd seems to work fine. The contacter will eventually get too hot and pop and my second one is doing it too. I’ve ordered everything from your provided links. Could it be poor quality parts?
Not sure but sometimes heat is caused by resistance which is caused by bad connections. I’d start by making sure that all of the wires are appropriately sized and all of the screw terminals are nice and tight.
Which gauge wire did you use for hot and neutral wires at the contacter? Aside from that detail I’ve ordered every product you had linked and found the 18ga security shielded wire.
What kind and size screws did you use to attach components to box? TIA 9:58 9:58
They were small pan head allen screws that I purchased at Ace Hardware. I forget the size of them, though.
@@LucidAutowerks thank you for your prompt response! Did you have to tap each hole then?
@@renearellano3907 I did 👍🏼
Thank you!
@@renearellano3907 no problem!
"Hi, I'm James" (c) 😁
Know its stupid but 99% of machines that have a forward, off, reverse selector switch for some unknown reason forward was always on the right side. Best to have every selector switch operate the same. Only used a green wire to designate that its a ground wire.
Is this 110 or 220 volt input?
110v input