Love the video. I did the same but just poured a 1/4 qt to flush the old out. If you change oil often should be fine. This video should help a lot of DIY change Land Rover oil. Pay for the vacuum the first change. Most have the tube. Harbor freight, or might vac on Amazon sell the vacuum pump. Great for many uses. Cheers mate…👏👏👏
you have not drained the oil from the tank from the turbocharger. It's almost a liter 4.4TD L322 had a different sump plug for that. Here you need to pull off the hose
Ive just had my 3.0 serviced by Landrover.. £299 with brake fluid change 😃.. wife asked them to video oil coming out from sump … they did too, next time ill do it myself.
@@RaymiesGarage ahhh I’m in South Wales 😅 nevertheless I’m still going to watch and enjoy your videos! Amazing work as usual on all your videos! Really helps understand how things should be done properly and with care!
Nice video, but I will always use the drain plug to get all that crap at the bottom. I mean that’s where the oil pick up is as well. I want to remove the plug and see if bits of timing chain guide comes out on my oil changes.
Is this as good as draining from the bottom??.. just as far if theres metal partials wouldn't that be better to drain from bottom?? Cheers!! Btw. Great vid!! And i love my L405
Hi, just bought an oil extractor and it seems that you have to insert the pipes down the tube whereas you have put the pipe over the metal tube. Could you please tell me the bore of the pipe you have. I think your method is better! TIA
Quick question please. Why didn’t you just open the sump plug and empty the oil from there? Is there a reason or is it just preference and less chance of mess?
@@RaymiesGarage I Know you used engine cleaner which is very idea. I just think, that to remove oil in full and all particles the best way is to use oil Pan drain. Just my opinion . Cheers, I’m waiting for your next Video 👍
I did the same method but just popped 1 litre in that I had spare an sucked that out, though any heavy stuff at the bottom would get diluted and pulled out easier My only concern even though I do 6-8k change intervals is potentially that split second of dry turning the engine while the dry oil filter primes, thoughts?
How come? The oil filter on these is not the cup type so actually doesnt hold any oil once drained, well maybe some residual oil in the paper gills. It lift upwards rather than on some cars its more a cup type that holds a half a litre or so. If performing an interim oil change to help keep the oil from getting diluted on the diesel the chances are the filter needing to be changed everytime is not needed oil filter change every 2 oil changes should be fine inside of 1 yr or 10k but if doing higher mileage then it worth changing each oil change. Many diesel cars with DPF's can suffer from oil degradation due to short journeys where the DPF requires help to regen, and the car use a little diesel to help raise the temp but as know one know when the car is trying to do this (it would be so simple for them to put an icon up or message saying forced regen in progress or required in the next 2 engine starts) if you dont know its started it and then arrive where you were going an stop it fails and sometimes the diesel can seep back into the engine diluting the oil, (this could also be a reason for premature crank bearing rotations leading to crankshaft fails if the oil is heavily diluted) Hence performing and interim oil swap at home is no bad thing
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Love the video. I did the same but just poured a 1/4 qt to flush the old out. If you change oil often should be fine. This video should help a lot of DIY change Land Rover oil. Pay for the vacuum the first change. Most have the tube. Harbor freight, or might vac on Amazon sell the vacuum pump. Great for many uses. Cheers mate…👏👏👏
Great job and very informative ordered a oil suction pump. 👌
you have not drained the oil from the tank from the turbocharger. It's almost a liter
4.4TD L322 had a different sump plug for that. Here you need to pull off the hose
Excellent video.
I like to change my oil every 6000 miles, no engine ever died from too new oil!
100%
Ive just had my 3.0 serviced by Landrover.. £299 with brake fluid change 😃.. wife asked them to video oil coming out from sump … they did too, next time ill do it myself.
Great work....very impressed with oil extraction vacuum pump...have to get one for my L322.
Love these videos!! And I’m in love with your Range! Feel like you’re the only man I can trust when my range comes through! Where are you guys based?
the outskirts of Glasgow, Scotland
@@RaymiesGarage ahhh I’m in South Wales 😅 nevertheless I’m still going to watch and enjoy your videos! Amazing work as usual on all your videos!
Really helps understand how things should be done properly and with care!
Nice video, but I will always use the drain plug to get all that crap at the bottom. I mean that’s where the oil pick up is as well. I want to remove the plug and see if bits of timing chain guide comes out on my oil changes.
Is this as good as draining from the bottom??.. just as far if theres metal partials wouldn't that be better to drain from bottom?? Cheers!! Btw. Great vid!! And i love my L405
I use a funnel when filling 👍
Engine flush for what?
Hi, just bought an oil extractor and it seems that you have to insert the pipes down the tube whereas you have put the pipe over the metal tube. Could you please tell me the bore of the pipe you have. I think your method is better! TIA
I always reset the service interval as it impacts the oil in dilution calculations.
...and also the DPF regeneration, for us with diesels.
Ray thank you for this, i was wondering where you get your oil from, and what make?
Smith & Allan Momentum C1 F 5W-30 - Fully Synthetic Engine Oil - ACEA C1 Low SAPS
@@RaymiesGarage Thank you pal
Quick question please. Why didn’t you just open the sump plug and empty the oil from there? Is there a reason or is it just preference and less chance of mess?
For me it would be less mess. I believe the extraction method is the way the Land Rover dealers do it as well.
I agree with 6 months or 6K miles oil change
Where I disagree, oil should be always drain through oil plug hole.
Great video. Thanks Ray.
@@jackblack522 any particular reason just curious
@@RaymiesGarage I
Know you used engine cleaner which is very idea. I just think, that to remove oil in full and all particles the best way is to use oil
Pan drain. Just my opinion . Cheers, I’m waiting for your next Video 👍
I did the same method but just popped 1 litre in that I had spare an sucked that out, though any heavy stuff at the bottom would get diluted and pulled out easier
My only concern even though I do 6-8k change intervals is potentially that split second of dry turning the engine while the dry oil filter primes, thoughts?
❤ which oil do you use please let me know if you don’t mind mine is 2015 SDV8. Autobiography 4.4
❤❤👍👍
Smith & Allan Momentum C1 F 5W-30 - Fully Synthetic Engine Oil - ACEA C1 Low SAPS
@@RaymiesGarage what is the C1 mean please.
Thanks
Hi can I ask why you use C2 Oil when C1 is recommended for your car?
I use Smith & Allan Momentum C1 F 5W-30 - Engine Oil
Hello can you do the transfer case as well?
I have done the Transfer Box but unfortunatly never captured it on video
Change the oil filter first then the extractor will get all the oil out...
How come? The oil filter on these is not the cup type so actually doesnt hold any oil once drained, well maybe some residual oil in the paper gills. It lift upwards rather than on some cars its more a cup type that holds a half a litre or so. If performing an interim oil change to help keep the oil from getting diluted on the diesel the chances are the filter needing to be changed everytime is not needed oil filter change every 2 oil changes should be fine inside of 1 yr or 10k but if doing higher mileage then it worth changing each oil change. Many diesel cars with DPF's can suffer from oil degradation due to short journeys where the DPF requires help to regen, and the car use a little diesel to help raise the temp but as know one know when the car is trying to do this (it would be so simple for them to put an icon up or message saying forced regen in progress or required in the next 2 engine starts) if you dont know its started it and then arrive where you were going an stop it fails and sometimes the diesel can seep back into the engine diluting the oil, (this could also be a reason for premature crank bearing rotations leading to crankshaft fails if the oil is heavily diluted) Hence performing and interim oil swap at home is no bad thing