Great video, perhaps it would also help if you explained the math on the shrinkage of conduit after each bend to determine your total length of conduit, i.e., 10 degree offsets, 90's, and three point saddle; so that at the end of the video the viewer isn't left asking the questions how you determined the perfect length for that piece of conduit.
My advise... and am an experienced electrician in Ireland for 23 years, would be to start with an oversized piece of conduit, once at your final 90, offset etc measure what you need and cut. Perfect example in the video at thee end where a scrap piece of pipe was needed to create the small offset entering the box.
I need clarification. Exactly where did you take your first horizontal measurement from, outside of tubing, inside of tubing, and exactly where did you measure to horizontally on the last bend, inside or outside of tubing. First measurement to centerline of pipe, second measurement from centerline of pipe to the right. Under lite box. It matters to me how you got these measurements.
@@bananaaaa3428 no this is wrong the star is for the back of 90 the rim notch is the center of a 45 degree bend. You use the star for when bending 90s and u need to turn the bender around to have enough pipe to bend with and have adequate foot pressure (anything over 60 inches)
For the 3 point saddle. What did you use on your second bend? The tear/notch or the arrow? And why you bend the second bend holding the pipe from your previous 45 degree bend? When I tried that, my 45 degree bend became like a 42 degree for the pressure when doing the second bend.
Bend 1- teardrop (on some benders its called a rim notch) Bend 2- arrow Bend 3- arrow The best way to describe it without demonstrating it in front of you is... After you bent the center bend on the saddle (literally, you JUST bent the pipe to 45° and its still sitting tight in the bender) you lift up on the pipe a little to loosen it so you can slide the pipe in the bender...then push the pipe forward and rotate it clockwise(like, literally grab the end of the pipe thats sticking back at you, push it forward, and then the same way you would turn a doorknob, spin the pipe to the right 180°, or "upside down" from the 1st 45° bend). Line up mark 2 at the arrow and bend it to 22 1/2°. Then take the pipe out of the bender spin it around like a ceiling fan 180° so you're holding the OTHER end of the piece of conduit. In the same way you lined up mark 2 in an "upside down and rotated like a door knob" fashion from bend 1...line up mark 3 on the arrow and bend it to 22 1/2°. The idea with bending the pipe this way is if you truly made a 45° first bend (which is crucial to the pipe ending up the correct height for your particular obstruction) you dont want to be using that 45° bend as a handle to grab onto for leverage for your second bend. EMT is easily bendable, and if you were to pull the EMT towards you after bend 1 versus push it forward, you would be torquing that bend, most likely distorting your 45° throwing off your pipe at the end. In short: Dont apply any pressure to your already made bends if you can help it. Orientate the pipe in the bender so your always grabbing onto the straight length of pipe left over vs grabbing onto your already made bend. IF YOU'RE GOING TO MAKE BEND 2 AND YOU'RE LITERALLY HOLDING ON TO YOUR FIRST BEND....STOP....AND THINK ABOUT WHAT YOURE DOING. lol. GOOD LUCK!!!
From your example....I can literally picture what that piece of pipe looked like when you tried to fit it in. Your 42° (instead of 45°) bend lowered the overall height of your saddle so now it wasnt tall enough to actually get over the obstruction. You then lined up the next bend to 22.5° when you actually needed a 24° bend to compensate for your first bend no longer being 45°. Bending to 24° wont solve your problem though because even though now your pipe is level...its still not high enough to get over that damn obstruction. So your pipe leaves the box...box offset down...runs along the surface for a little bit of the way but its always pulling upward off the surface for some reason...its getting harder to put straps on the pipe the closer you get to your 2nd and 3rd bends and its not sitting on the surface anymore unless your strap the shit out of it...you ask yourself..."WHY WONT THIS GOD DAMN PIPE SIT FLAT?" In reality, it had NOTHING to do with your measuring or marking of the pipe...it had EVERYTHING to do with you using the first bend as a handle for your second bend and making it a 42° bend from torquing it when you pried on it pulling your 22 1/2° second bend. Dont spend the time making a bend and making sure its perfect and then go and screw it all up by using it as a handle to make any other bends on that conduit. You always bend from the center out of the conduit towards the outer 2 ends of conduit like this (for your 3 point saddle).... -------A---------2----------1-----------3--------B------- Hold on to "A" for the first two bends (literally from the time you bend BEND1 until you finish with BEND2). So... Grab "A"....bend BEND 1 to 45°....push it forward and rotate like a doorknob, bend BEND2 to 22 1/2°. Remove pipe from bender (dont move anything your doing like the way the bender is facing or how your standing in relation to the bender) the only thing you need to "move" is spinning the pipe over your head like a helicopter so your now holding "B" in your hand. Insert the pipe to BEND3 mark on the arrow and bend to 22 1/2°. If you can follow those directions along with the little pipe drawing thing i did up there you will see that each bend you make doesnt apply pressure to the other bends youve made already...this will save you the ridiculous headache of why that god damn pipe just wont sit flat.
@@PCCMike thank you for make it clear. I am bending the saddles that way, it is explained in the IDEAL USER MANUAL that came whit my benders. But you are better than the MANUAL 👍
@@himatkhalsa-pimabct9026 thanks for your videos. I onli say that I tried doing my bends in the order I saw the video. I used to star my first bend in the center and using notch, second and third bend in the sides and using arrow with the head pointing the center bend.
Can you show how you calculated the correct length for what you needed, and how you account for gain. Do u just add 3” to ur overall conduit if your gain is determined to be 3” and for the shrinkage would you subtract that from the overall length?
for the shrinkage you add 3/16 in for every inch of height 3x3/16= 9/16 you add 9/16 to ur center mark ,for the outside Mark you multiply the height 2.5 3x2.5 =7.5 you don"t need a chart to do this .
this is the board of the union. this is their classroom. The issue I have with this is, in a real setting I would never do this. I would just use a coupling. Which is cheaper, and faster. I dont care how you look at it. Youre either going to have to walk around with the chart, or use a phone or whatever it is. By the time you do all that, I would have put the bend in with a coupling, and went on to another section. Cost of pipe, cost of a coupling, and most importantly, the man hours. We can pat one another on the back about this sort of thing, but at the end of the day, I need that pipe in, and I need it in fast, and right. I just dont see the logic in that.
Point taken. This is an instructional video on bending. If you’ve got a coupling on site and handy, by all means use it. I might also add that this is a basic level intro video and that I am not a licensed electrician. I would recommend a licensed electrician oversee/supervise any of this type of work. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Great video, perhaps it would also help if you explained the math on the shrinkage of conduit after each bend to determine your total length of conduit, i.e., 10 degree offsets, 90's, and three point saddle; so that at the end of the video the viewer isn't left asking the questions how you determined the perfect length for that piece of conduit.
My advise... and am an experienced electrician in Ireland for 23 years, would be to start with an oversized piece of conduit, once at your final 90, offset etc measure what you need and cut. Perfect example in the video at thee end where a scrap piece of pipe was needed to create the small offset entering the box.
Hi himat thank you for your vlog about conduit bending I have learn alot about the tutorial of bending thank you.
Good demo.
I would have personally used a kick when the 90 is that close to your box but to each sparky their own. Cheers mate.
Excellent video! You are a good teacher.
Love the clapping sound bit. 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Thank you, have watched a dozen vids on this, yours is by far the best.
Start watching the sparky channel
Great video, well laid out and explained. The beard gets on the way of a few of the bends though.
The Beard is where I get the strength for the bends.
Eric! I told you no You Tube until you're 40!
he's in Tucson. that look (along with tats) are really really common. I swear, old ladies have long beards in tucson LOL
I need clarification. Exactly where did you take your first horizontal measurement from, outside of tubing, inside of tubing, and exactly where did you measure to horizontally on the last bend, inside or outside of tubing. First measurement to centerline of pipe, second measurement from centerline of pipe to the right. Under lite box. It matters to me how you got these measurements.
Measurements are taken from center of 1/2" EMT or as you mention "centerline of pipe"/fitting.
That was awesome. Just out of curiosity did you use the star or the arrow for that back to back 90?
You just use the star for the second 90
He had to have used the arrow since he deducted 5” …. You don’t deduct when you use the star
Wish he had more videos to upload
Coming soon!
Genial excelente 👌 amigo
Well done
Cherry!
You could’ve use the star to bend the back to back right?
PrimaL yea, the star indicates where the back of the conduit will be
@@bananaaaa3428 no this is wrong the star is for the back of 90 the rim notch is the center of a 45 degree bend. You use the star for when bending 90s and u need to turn the bender around to have enough pipe to bend with and have adequate foot pressure (anything over 60 inches)
Thank you for this video
great video plz post more
For the 3 point saddle. What did you use on your second bend?
The tear/notch or the arrow?
And why you bend the second bend holding the pipe from your previous 45 degree bend?
When I tried that, my 45 degree bend became like a 42 degree for the pressure when doing the second bend.
Bend 1- teardrop (on some benders its called a rim notch)
Bend 2- arrow
Bend 3- arrow
The best way to describe it without demonstrating it in front of you is...
After you bent the center bend on the saddle (literally, you JUST bent the pipe to 45° and its still sitting tight in the bender) you lift up on the pipe a little to loosen it so you can slide the pipe in the bender...then push the pipe forward and rotate it clockwise(like, literally grab the end of the pipe thats sticking back at you, push it forward, and then the same way you would turn a doorknob, spin the pipe to the right 180°, or "upside down" from the 1st 45° bend). Line up mark 2 at the arrow and bend it to 22 1/2°. Then take the pipe out of the bender spin it around like a ceiling fan 180° so you're holding the OTHER end of the piece of conduit. In the same way you lined up mark 2 in an "upside down and rotated like a door knob" fashion from bend 1...line up mark 3 on the arrow and bend it to 22 1/2°.
The idea with bending the pipe this way is if you truly made a 45° first bend (which is crucial to the pipe ending up the correct height for your particular obstruction) you dont want to be using that 45° bend as a handle to grab onto for leverage for your second bend. EMT is easily bendable, and if you were to pull the EMT towards you after bend 1 versus push it forward, you would be torquing that bend, most likely distorting your 45° throwing off your pipe at the end.
In short:
Dont apply any pressure to your already made bends if you can help it. Orientate the pipe in the bender so your always grabbing onto the straight length of pipe left over vs grabbing onto your already made bend. IF YOU'RE GOING TO MAKE BEND 2 AND YOU'RE LITERALLY HOLDING ON TO YOUR FIRST BEND....STOP....AND THINK ABOUT WHAT YOURE DOING. lol.
GOOD LUCK!!!
From your example....I can literally picture what that piece of pipe looked like when you tried to fit it in.
Your 42° (instead of 45°) bend lowered the overall height of your saddle so now it wasnt tall enough to actually get over the obstruction. You then lined up the next bend to 22.5° when you actually needed a 24° bend to compensate for your first bend no longer being 45°. Bending to 24° wont solve your problem though because even though now your pipe is level...its still not high enough to get over that damn obstruction.
So your pipe leaves the box...box offset down...runs along the surface for a little bit of the way but its always pulling upward off the surface for some reason...its getting harder to put straps on the pipe the closer you get to your 2nd and 3rd bends and its not sitting on the surface anymore unless your strap the shit out of it...you ask yourself..."WHY WONT THIS GOD DAMN PIPE SIT FLAT?"
In reality, it had NOTHING to do with your measuring or marking of the pipe...it had EVERYTHING to do with you using the first bend as a handle for your second bend and making it a 42° bend from torquing it when you pried on it pulling your 22 1/2° second bend.
Dont spend the time making a bend and making sure its perfect and then go and screw it all up by using it as a handle to make any other bends on that conduit.
You always bend from the center out of the conduit towards the outer 2 ends of conduit like this (for your 3 point saddle)....
-------A---------2----------1-----------3--------B-------
Hold on to "A" for the first two bends (literally from the time you bend BEND1 until you finish with BEND2).
So...
Grab "A"....bend BEND 1 to 45°....push it forward and rotate like a doorknob, bend BEND2 to 22 1/2°.
Remove pipe from bender (dont move anything your doing like the way the bender is facing or how your standing in relation to the bender) the only thing you need to "move" is spinning the pipe over your head like a helicopter so your now holding "B" in your hand. Insert the pipe to BEND3 mark on the arrow and bend to 22 1/2°.
If you can follow those directions along with the little pipe drawing thing i did up there you will see that each bend you make doesnt apply pressure to the other bends youve made already...this will save you the ridiculous headache of why that god damn pipe just wont sit flat.
Mike answered your questions above. If you need more clarification, please comment. Thanks for watching.
@@PCCMike thank you for make it clear. I am bending the saddles that way, it is explained in the IDEAL USER MANUAL that came whit my benders. But you are better than the MANUAL 👍
@@himatkhalsa-pimabct9026 thanks for your videos. I onli say that I tried doing my bends in the order I saw the video. I used to star my first bend in the center and using notch, second and third bend in the sides and using arrow with the head pointing the center bend.
💯
Lol I remember 😂 that bender
Can you show how you calculated the correct length for what you needed, and how you account for gain. Do u just add 3” to ur overall conduit if your gain is determined to be 3” and for the shrinkage would you subtract that from the overall length?
U deduct gain and u add shrinkage
@@vponce7997 thanks
for the shrinkage you add 3/16 in for every inch of height 3x3/16= 9/16 you add 9/16 to ur center mark ,for the outside Mark you multiply the height 2.5 3x2.5 =7.5 you don"t need a chart to do this .
Joking? I am good at working with my hands but this is hard mate. Fair play
Sir ok
Aren't you suppose to put foot pressure as you bend
Depends on the bend.
Yes I was taught always have even foot pressure when bending conduit.
this is the board of the union. this is their classroom. The issue I have with this is, in a real setting I would never do this. I would just use a coupling. Which is cheaper, and faster. I dont care how you look at it. Youre either going to have to walk around with the chart, or use a phone or whatever it is. By the time you do all that, I would have put the bend in with a coupling, and went on to another section. Cost of pipe, cost of a coupling, and most importantly, the man hours. We can pat one another on the back about this sort of thing, but at the end of the day, I need that pipe in, and I need it in fast, and right.
I just dont see the logic in that.
Point taken. This is an instructional video on bending. If you’ve got a coupling on site and handy, by all means use it. I might also add that this is a basic level intro video and that I am not a licensed electrician. I would recommend a licensed electrician oversee/supervise any of this type of work. Thank you for watching and commenting.