Thanks Ollie and apologies I’ve just watched the video back (again) and haven’t phrased it well at all towards the end. What I should have said was if you aren’t going down the Zinnser (meaning 123) route then use an oil based primer instead. I don’t think the likes of acrylic primer undercoat would be up to the concentrated resin / glue areas of the boards to prevent bleed through. Two coats and it worked it’s magic with whatever alchemy it contains😀😀, use a cheaper alternative would be best oil based in my opinion 👍
Consider staying with a water base primer and top coat, especially if you are building in a hot humid environment and may use air conditioning. An oil base may be a vapor retardant but the water base will allow for drying. (Look up hurricane Katrina FEMA trailers - vinyl wall covering - mold growth - building science)
Gradually working my way through your back catalog since finding you yesterday. I just thought to myself, I just watched a bloke paint a wall at 3am and enjoyed it. That says so much about your presenting style and personality Leo. Keep it up mate. 👍 Looks great too by the way.
Hi Leo, Very interesting video. I live in the US and last year painted the inside of my new shed (all-OSB) and found similar results to you. - I ended up using 4 US gallons (20ltr) of oil-based Killz primer that was tinted to be pale gray. Got 3 coats total. - I pre-sealed all the joints with exterior caulk. - I was advised to use oil not water-based as water-based paint can really soak into OSB and potentially cause flaking. - at the start of the job, thinking one gallon would be enough I went to rent a sprayer but the hire shop wouldn’t let me use it for oil As they said it blocked the tips and pipes. I subsequently wished I’d either rented before walking in there w a can of oil paint (damn Home Depot and their integral hire shop) or simply lied to them as 4 gallons applied by hand is no joke. - I regret nothing.. the finish is super durable against spills and stains and looks great to me. I’d recommend really getting the edges because it’ll annoy you later
Cheers Frank for your detailed reply and it was really interesting to read. That’s a serious amount of painting there 😳 but glad you have got the finish you are really happy with 👍👍
I used a high hide primer, spackled screw holes, VERY lightly sanded, high hide primer again, and two coats of interior eggshell finish latex enamel. Turned out well.
Thanks Jeremy, it’s worth doing if that’s the finish you’re looking for. But don’t try and cut corners on the process otherwise it will come back to bite you
I covered the walls of my 28x38 auto hobby shop with OSB as a less expensive covering. I'm very pleased with the results too! I hung the OSB by myself using a drywall lift and a good pneumatic staple gun. I had to learn how to hang at an angle, the drywall lift will not put the panel flat against the wall, but it wasn't hard to figure out. I did not sand the panels, I did caulk the joints. I painted first with a 3/4 knap roller and 5 gal. of HD Behr Premium Plus Ultra White interior paint. I ran out about 6' from finishing, plus the panels sucked the paint up. I got 5 gal. more, rolled it again and it looks great! I get a lot of compliments and the paint is awesome. The gloss paint gives the OSB a completely different appearance.
Thank you! The shop upgrade included insulation and wall covering was complete 4 years ago, the walls look like new. The Behr paint makes the finish look and feel like a plastic panel. The temp stays 10-15 degrees warmer in winter without using heat, no more freeze ruined spray paint. Thanks for your video, you did a great job and many will be encouraged to try OSB in less formal environments.
Wow! You made this look so easy! Until I heard you mention something about not having utility in your right arm, I was thinking... Wow! Look at him go! He makes it look so easy - he's even painting casually with his hand in his pocket! So... I think if you didn't mention it, people not not even know. Perhaps it draws in a bit, but your chipper personality does that well enough! Thank you for the videos! Now I've got to decide if I want to put in the effort in a backroom that no one will see but me, the time (when I wanted it to be a morning project - ha), and the expense (when I had already pulled out a few cans of miscellaneous paints I was going to use.) Decision time! :)
Well that really brightened up the place, and looks a million bucks!👌🏽 Crazy how anything to do with goods in the building industry has sky rocketed in price... Bloody good job, Leo.👍🏽
Nice one Bill, wall has made a big difference but I think I’ll leave it at just the one wall as I do like the ‘raw’ osb look as well👍. As for prices, well it’s a tragedy pal 😞
Cheers for the tip. It probably could be wallpapered, but you’d have to be mindful that the osb is textured which would probably show through on the paper 👍👍
Hello Leo, nice job, may I suggest you something, I’ve been painting a lot of houses and apartments, even if is a small wall is best if you use the ruler with a stick you can apply much more pressure and much more uniform pressure, and you can use it one hand I tried myself before posting the comment and is not heavy at all. Just a suggestion have a nice day
Interesting video leo. Still need to redo mine as I have major bleed through on mine. I had read you can just use the masonry paint on it's own as it's supposed to work well with osb. Maybe you can do a quick test to let people know, by people I mean me😁😁😁. Also because I used crap paint it's chipped off in places. Also is that the trend t33a shop vac you have, is that any good for small power tool use.
I’ll run a test Dave on masonry only. It was my original intention, but I went proper belt and braces as I’ve invested so much time and energy into the workshop I didn’t want make a mistake at this stage. The Zinnser primer really is good stuff so I guess you do get what you pay for in that respect. Oh and yes the Trend T33a, great bit of kit pal. I use it with sanders, tracksaw, bandsaw etc and it works really well. Available at the mo for around £160 which is incredible value seeing it is M class extraction and wet and dry vac as well 👍👍
@@Hand-i-Craft thanks mate. Yeah I've been looking at vacs for the shop. Need something for tablesaw & benchtop planer thicknesser & something for smaller tools.
Thanks Simon and funny you should say that, I used the same stuff on OSB for a wood store roof. Was only meant to be a temporary solution as OSB was relatively cheap at the time, but it’s coming up to 3 years now and it’s still holding fine. Hardy stuff the OSB, shame you need a second mortgage to buy a few sheets of the stuff now 😳😂
@@Hand-i-Craft Interesting - so why then did you seek out other products for this video? I found the Ronseal easy to brush apply (well as easy as anything can be on osb) and 2 coats did the job. Its not cheap .... nothing is any more.
Thanks Leo, very useful, I am considering similar for the workshop part of my build. I am also thinking of varnishing one wall! I will post a video if I do!
Alright Gary, acrylic primer undercoat is my go to stuff as well and I’ve plenty of it. Tried it on a test piece and it seemed ok but I didn’t risk it as it is water based. Read loads into this topic and water based primers are more likely to cause issues like swelling. Also the concentration of glue / resin in the board appears to be totally sporadic so you need something properly up to the job for the high resin / glue areas. Zinnser then masonry is proper belt and braces, but it has worked really well and will be very durable for a workshop wall 👍👍👍
Sorry Gary, need to clarify the point I’ve made as it’s popped up in another comment. Zinnser 123 is water based, but whatever alchemy they put into it seems to work great. Not sure if Leyland acrylic primer would work the same magic. If folk are going to apply primer, but not Zinnser then oil based would be better suited. Just watched the video back and I’m not making myself clear
In most cases yes. The waxy side would be the ‘finished’ side, or the side you would like to display. It does need prepping though so sand first before priming 😀👍
I imagine you looked down at the drops of spilled Zinsser on the dust sheet and thought, "that's a 50p and thats a £coin...a few 10p's over there." Seriously, a wonderful job on a tough substrate, nice tutorial too. Stick to one wall, that'll cover your filming needs and with the effort, cost and time I'm sold on the raw OSB look! Great job Leo.
Too right Keith, not cheap at all but whatever alchemy they use in the ingredients it does work very well. Agree with you, going to stick to one wall, plus the tool walls should be fine. I do like the osb look and if I was to paint it all it would ‘institutionalise’ the look of the workshop which is the last thing I want 🤔👍
Sanding prior to priming worked well Wil and it didn’t clog the abrasive. I’ve just said in another comment, the concentration of resin / glue in the osb varies greatly across the surface of the board and that is where the Zinnser came into its own to protect and seal the surface 👍
I have just been out painting my garage with that sandtex Masonry paint. I've been painting concrete blocks which also suck up paint! I thought it was going to be really nasty stuff but it says low VOC and clean with water so not as bad I was expecting. Obviously ventilation is never a bad idea.
Cheers for the message pal. Tbh I think most of the stuff that used to ‘work’ really well in these types of paint are now banned. It’s like the paint stripper stuff that simply doesn’t work any more 🤷♂️😂. But I guess it is sensible to still be safe just in case 👍👍👍
Good question Sandra. Varnish forms a protective seal and doesn’t soak right into the surface you are covering, but the nature of OSB is it absorbs most treatments. I’d suggest sanding it back to remove the surface varnish, applying an oil based primer before painting a couple of layers of top coat. I can’t say for certain this would work, but it is what I would do
Nice job Leo, Zinsser is good stuff, but expensive as you say, although you got a good deal. The 1-2-3 you used is in fact water based. I’ve used the oil based cover-stain primer before when I had to decorate a room with a badly nicotine stained ceiling. Good ventilation definitely required as the smell from both the nicotine & primer were strong 🥴.
Cheers Idler, just replied to another comment and pinned it about Zinnser 123 as I didn’t explain myself well at all at the end. I meant to say if you’re not going to go down the Zinnser (123) route as it might be a bit pricey then used an oil based primer instead. Personally I don’t think an acrylic primer would be able to cope with the glue / resin concentrated areas on the boards. My choice of words wasn’t clear. Btw the oil based Zinnser you reference is mega money 😳😳
Like with the tool wall video, I’ve bottled it using the spray gun in the workshop pal until I’ve got a proper set up for it. With it only being one wall no big deal using the roller and brush 👍
turned out well, the price of everything has got ridiculous at the moment i am building my new workshop and its painful every time i have to buy stuff the huepar laser has been a very good purchase.
It looks great and should last many years, couple of things, we don't fill screw holes with caulk and if we did we would not be sanding it afterwards (you don't sand decorators caulk), Personally I am not a fan of Zinsser products as it is overpriced and lets the tannin bleed through and does not work as well as oil based undercoats, but as you managed to get it cheap enough and had enough to apply an extra coat it all worked out in the end, nothing wrong with using the masonry paint indoors
@@Hand-i-Craft Well, I've used it on other bare wood surfaces before doing a stain and varnish or primer followed by paint . I think if a person is using a quality primer it should work over the sealer . I've used 123 for years . Last fall , I wanted to change to color in a main bathroom. I used a Hybird primer called Smart Prime - which was lovely to work with and topped it w/ Benjamin Moore Advance paint .I actually found your video because we are planning a studio addition for my husband and I was thinking doing plywood walls in a board n batten fashion but hadn't thought about osb at all for the walls but seems like it would work well
Any wood exposed to light will need sanding before painting plus methylated spirit is preferable to white spirit for cleaning I read somewhere. Not that white spirit is a problem , I've used it before painting my front door and it still looks fine.
Cheers for the message, white spirit fine for cleaning down, but not for food stuff like cutting boards👍. Important in this instance to differentiate between wood and OSB which is probably just as much glue than wood😂. I’m running an experiment that I have another video on about painting OSB using different methods. Not enough info to feedback yet as it’s only three months in, but will be returning to it during the year 😀👍
Thanks Brian, I sometimes struggle with extension poles because I’m only using one arm but I’d imagine a very short extension one should be fine🤔🤔, I’ll try it next time 😀😀👍👍
49 pounds?! I just bought the same for a remodel for $37. You're right about the time between coats 😩. I did a small project with osb once and it took longer than that recommended hour.
Hi Leo, great finish, I think the bullseye 1-2-3 is water based
Thanks Ollie and apologies I’ve just watched the video back (again) and haven’t phrased it well at all towards the end. What I should have said was if you aren’t going down the Zinnser (meaning 123) route then use an oil based primer instead. I don’t think the likes of acrylic primer undercoat would be up to the concentrated resin / glue areas of the boards to prevent bleed through. Two coats and it worked it’s magic with whatever alchemy it contains😀😀, use a cheaper alternative would be best oil based in my opinion 👍
It’s great stuff, works wonders on mdf edges too
Consider staying with a water base primer and top coat, especially if you are building in a hot humid environment and may use air conditioning. An oil base may be a vapor retardant but the water base will allow for drying. (Look up hurricane Katrina FEMA trailers - vinyl wall covering - mold growth - building science)
Gradually working my way through your back catalog since finding you yesterday. I just thought to myself, I just watched a bloke paint a wall at 3am and enjoyed it. That says so much about your presenting style and personality Leo. Keep it up mate. 👍 Looks great too by the way.
😂😂😂Never did I think someone would be watching this literally ‘how paint dries’ video at 3am. Maybe it was the cure needed for insomnia 🤔🤔😂😂😂👍👍👍
Hi Leo,
Very interesting video. I live in the US and last year painted the inside of my new shed (all-OSB) and found similar results to you.
- I ended up using 4 US gallons (20ltr) of oil-based Killz primer that was tinted to be pale gray. Got 3 coats total.
- I pre-sealed all the joints with exterior caulk.
- I was advised to use oil not water-based as water-based paint can really soak into OSB and potentially cause flaking.
- at the start of the job, thinking one gallon would be enough I went to rent a sprayer but the hire shop wouldn’t let me use it for oil As they said it blocked the tips and pipes. I subsequently wished I’d either rented before walking in there w a can of oil paint (damn Home Depot and their integral hire shop) or simply lied to them as 4 gallons applied by hand is no joke.
- I regret nothing.. the finish is super durable against spills and stains and looks great to me.
I’d recommend really getting the edges because it’ll annoy you later
Cheers Frank for your detailed reply and it was really interesting to read. That’s a serious amount of painting there 😳 but glad you have got the finish you are really happy with 👍👍
I used a high hide primer, spackled screw holes, VERY lightly sanded, high hide primer again, and two coats of interior eggshell finish latex enamel. Turned out well.
Thank you for sharing your experiences here for other people to see. Much appreciated 😀👍
Many thanks, I am thinking about painting my OSB internal walls...at least now I know its a lot of work!!
Thanks Jeremy, it’s worth doing if that’s the finish you’re looking for. But don’t try and cut corners on the process otherwise it will come back to bite you
I covered the walls of my 28x38 auto hobby shop with OSB as a less expensive covering. I'm very pleased with the results too! I hung the OSB by myself using a drywall lift and a good pneumatic staple gun. I had to learn how to hang at an angle, the drywall lift will not put the panel flat against the wall, but it wasn't hard to figure out.
I did not sand the panels, I did caulk the joints. I painted first with a 3/4 knap roller and 5 gal. of HD Behr Premium Plus Ultra White interior paint. I ran out about 6' from finishing, plus the panels sucked the paint up. I got 5 gal. more, rolled it again and it looks great! I get a lot of compliments and the paint is awesome. The gloss paint gives the OSB a completely different appearance.
Nice one, cheers for the message and sounds like you’ve done a fantastic job👍. Let me know how it goes long term👍👍
Thank you! The shop upgrade included insulation and wall covering was complete 4 years ago, the walls look like new. The Behr paint makes the finish look and feel like a plastic panel. The temp stays 10-15 degrees warmer in winter without using heat, no more freeze ruined spray paint.
Thanks for your video, you did a great job and many will be encouraged to try OSB in less formal environments.
Wow! You made this look so easy! Until I heard you mention something about not having utility in your right arm, I was thinking... Wow! Look at him go! He makes it look so easy - he's even painting casually with his hand in his pocket! So... I think if you didn't mention it, people not not even know. Perhaps it draws in a bit, but your chipper personality does that well enough! Thank you for the videos! Now I've got to decide if I want to put in the effort in a backroom that no one will see but me, the time (when I wanted it to be a morning project - ha), and the expense (when I had already pulled out a few cans of miscellaneous paints I was going to use.) Decision time! :)
Thanks Lisa for your very kind comments 😀. I hope you managed to sort your mini project and let me know how it went 😀👍
Anybody that has a MIRKA I trust (ha, ha, ha) - thank you for your knowledge and input!
Cheers Frank 😀👍
Cheers for the video mate very helpful. And good on you for showing you can still smash these jobs out with just one working hand, inspiring stuff 👍🏼
Nice one, cheers for the kind message, much appreciated 😀😀👍👍
Well that really brightened up the place, and looks a million bucks!👌🏽
Crazy how anything to do with goods in the building industry has sky rocketed in price...
Bloody good job, Leo.👍🏽
Nice one Bill, wall has made a big difference but I think I’ll leave it at just the one wall as I do like the ‘raw’ osb look as well👍. As for prices, well it’s a tragedy pal 😞
Two part wood filler for the joints and screw holes. Do you think it can be wallpapered.?
Cheers for the tip. It probably could be wallpapered, but you’d have to be mindful that the osb is textured which would probably show through on the paper 👍👍
Hello Leo, nice job, may I suggest you something, I’ve been painting a lot of houses and apartments, even if is a small wall is best if you use the ruler with a stick you can apply much more pressure and much more uniform pressure, and you can use it one hand I tried myself before posting the comment and is not heavy at all. Just a suggestion have a nice day
Nice one, thanks Marco for the tip, much appreciated 👍👍😀😀
Very nice,thank you for the info.
Cheers Gary 😀👍
Se puede arreglar licar en techo de osb?
As a decorator I would have done it quite different but yours seems to be bullet proof 👍
Cheers Pistol. Would be interested to know how you go about it as a tradesman 👍
Interesting video leo. Still need to redo mine as I have major bleed through on mine. I had read you can just use the masonry paint on it's own as it's supposed to work well with osb. Maybe you can do a quick test to let people know, by people I mean me😁😁😁. Also because I used crap paint it's chipped off in places.
Also is that the trend t33a shop vac you have, is that any good for small power tool use.
I’ll run a test Dave on masonry only. It was my original intention, but I went proper belt and braces as I’ve invested so much time and energy into the workshop I didn’t want make a mistake at this stage. The Zinnser primer really is good stuff so I guess you do get what you pay for in that respect. Oh and yes the Trend T33a, great bit of kit pal. I use it with sanders, tracksaw, bandsaw etc and it works really well. Available at the mo for around £160 which is incredible value seeing it is M class extraction and wet and dry vac as well 👍👍
@@Hand-i-Craft thanks mate. Yeah I've been looking at vacs for the shop. Need something for tablesaw & benchtop planer thicknesser & something for smaller tools.
Hi. Great video. I used Ronseal 10 year weather proof on OSB. No primer and two years on, no problems.
Thanks Simon and funny you should say that, I used the same stuff on OSB for a wood store roof. Was only meant to be a temporary solution as OSB was relatively cheap at the time, but it’s coming up to 3 years now and it’s still holding fine. Hardy stuff the OSB, shame you need a second mortgage to buy a few sheets of the stuff now 😳😂
@@Hand-i-Craft Interesting - so why then did you seek out other products for this video? I found the Ronseal easy to brush apply (well as easy as anything can be on osb) and 2 coats did the job. Its not cheap .... nothing is any more.
Thanks Leo, very useful, I am considering similar for the workshop part of my build. I am also thinking of varnishing one wall! I will post a video if I do!
Be interested to see the varnish results pal if you go for it 👍👍
@@Hand-i-Craft will post a vid on it when I finally get there!
Hi Leo. I have a lot of spare Acrylic Primer. Do you think that would suffice?
Alright Gary, acrylic primer undercoat is my go to stuff as well and I’ve plenty of it. Tried it on a test piece and it seemed ok but I didn’t risk it as it is water based. Read loads into this topic and water based primers are more likely to cause issues like swelling. Also the concentration of glue / resin in the board appears to be totally sporadic so you need something properly up to the job for the high resin / glue areas. Zinnser then masonry is proper belt and braces, but it has worked really well and will be very durable for a workshop wall 👍👍👍
Sorry Gary, need to clarify the point I’ve made as it’s popped up in another comment. Zinnser 123 is water based, but whatever alchemy they put into it seems to work great. Not sure if Leyland acrylic primer would work the same magic. If folk are going to apply primer, but not Zinnser then oil based would be better suited. Just watched the video back and I’m not making myself clear
What is this sanding machine?
It’s a Mirka Deos 👍👍
Looking great Leo. I use Zinsser Bin, highly recommend, great rollered on MDF especially. Just a pain needing meths to clean.
Cheers Rob, great to hear it works well with MDF as well 👍👍😀
I reckon a nice roll of flock wallpaper would spruce that up a treat. 😀
🤔🤔😂😂😂😂😂👍👍👍👍
OSB has a waxy coating on one side, correct?
In most cases yes. The waxy side would be the ‘finished’ side, or the side you would like to display. It does need prepping though so sand first before priming 😀👍
I imagine you looked down at the drops of spilled Zinsser on the dust sheet and thought, "that's a 50p and thats a £coin...a few 10p's over there." Seriously, a wonderful job on a tough substrate, nice tutorial too. Stick to one wall, that'll cover your filming needs and with the effort, cost and time I'm sold on the raw OSB look! Great job Leo.
Too right Keith, not cheap at all but whatever alchemy they use in the ingredients it does work very well. Agree with you, going to stick to one wall, plus the tool walls should be fine. I do like the osb look and if I was to paint it all it would ‘institutionalise’ the look of the workshop which is the last thing I want 🤔👍
What if you paint the smooth side?
No problem, same rules apply. Make sure to sand the surface and clean it down first before applying a primer 👍👍
@@Hand-i-Craft ok I'll try that
Any issues with the wax coating on the OSB3, Leo?
Sanding prior to priming worked well Wil and it didn’t clog the abrasive. I’ve just said in another comment, the concentration of resin / glue in the osb varies greatly across the surface of the board and that is where the Zinnser came into its own to protect and seal the surface 👍
I have just been out painting my garage with that sandtex Masonry paint. I've been painting concrete blocks which also suck up paint! I thought it was going to be really nasty stuff but it says low VOC and clean with water so not as bad I was expecting. Obviously ventilation is never a bad idea.
Cheers for the message pal. Tbh I think most of the stuff that used to ‘work’ really well in these types of paint are now banned. It’s like the paint stripper stuff that simply doesn’t work any more 🤷♂️😂. But I guess it is sensible to still be safe just in case 👍👍👍
I want to paint our cabin OSG ceiling, its been varnished years ago......suggstions??
Good question Sandra. Varnish forms a protective seal and doesn’t soak right into the surface you are covering, but the nature of OSB is it absorbs most treatments. I’d suggest sanding it back to remove the surface varnish, applying an oil based primer before painting a couple of layers of top coat. I can’t say for certain this would work, but it is what I would do
Nice job Leo, Zinsser is good stuff, but expensive as you say, although you got a good deal. The 1-2-3 you used is in fact water based.
I’ve used the oil based cover-stain primer before when I had to decorate a room with a badly nicotine stained ceiling. Good ventilation definitely required as the smell from both the nicotine & primer were strong 🥴.
Cheers Idler, just replied to another comment and pinned it about Zinnser 123 as I didn’t explain myself well at all at the end. I meant to say if you’re not going to go down the Zinnser (123) route as it might be a bit pricey then used an oil based primer instead. Personally I don’t think an acrylic primer would be able to cope with the glue / resin concentrated areas on the boards. My choice of words wasn’t clear. Btw the oil based Zinnser you reference is mega money 😳😳
@@Hand-i-Craft Zinsser do a shellac based primer but even more expensive ( I have only used it on MDF and not often as I only do DIY)
Leo, brilliant vid. Spraying on the primer not good? Was hoping you'd use the paint gun. Cheers Tim
Like with the tool wall video, I’ve bottled it using the spray gun in the workshop pal until I’ve got a proper set up for it. With it only being one wall no big deal using the roller and brush 👍
turned out well, the price of everything has got ridiculous at the moment i am building my new workshop and its painful every time i have to buy stuff the huepar laser has been a very good purchase.
Great to hear the laser is working well for you Rasmo, such a handy tool. Really feel for you with the price situation pal
Accubrush is awesom
Cheers for the tip 😀😀👍👍
It looks great and should last many years, couple of things, we don't fill screw holes with caulk and if we did we would not be sanding it afterwards (you don't sand decorators caulk), Personally I am not a fan of Zinsser products as it is overpriced and lets the tannin bleed through and does not work as well as oil based undercoats, but as you managed to get it cheap enough and had enough to apply an extra coat it all worked out in the end, nothing wrong with using the masonry paint indoors
Thanks Designer. Really happy with how it turned out, masonry paint given a good finish and 🤞it should be hardwaring 👍👍
Not a fan of painting but it always make such a big difference. Great job as always 👍🏼
Thanks Mark 👍👍😀😀
You should try using a sanding sealer coat, then finish with your paint of choice.
Thanks for the tip Paul 👍👍
Why can't a clear sealer be applied to the osb before painting on the primer
Interesting, have you tried it? Did the primer bond ok to the OSB? 🤷♂️👍
@@Hand-i-Craft Well, I've used it on other bare wood surfaces before doing a stain and varnish or primer followed by paint . I think if a person is using a quality primer it should work over the sealer . I've used 123 for years . Last fall , I wanted to change to color in a main bathroom. I used a Hybird primer called Smart Prime - which was lovely to work with and topped it w/ Benjamin Moore Advance paint .I actually found your video because we are planning a studio addition for my husband and I was thinking doing plywood walls in a board n batten fashion but hadn't thought about osb at all for the walls but seems like it would work well
Airless paint sprayer for OSB or other textured surface. Turns hours into minutes.
They would be a great way to do it, but I wanted to make a video that everyone would be able to do with minimal tools on a budget 👍
Any wood exposed to light will need sanding before painting plus methylated spirit is preferable to white spirit for cleaning I read somewhere. Not that white spirit is a problem , I've used it before painting my front door and it still looks fine.
Cheers for the message, white spirit fine for cleaning down, but not for food stuff like cutting boards👍. Important in this instance to differentiate between wood and OSB which is probably just as much glue than wood😂. I’m running an experiment that I have another video on about painting OSB using different methods. Not enough info to feedback yet as it’s only three months in, but will be returning to it during the year 😀👍
using a short extension pole on the roller is about 5 times less effort for larger projects if whenever possible
Thanks Brian, I sometimes struggle with extension poles because I’m only using one arm but I’d imagine a very short extension one should be fine🤔🤔, I’ll try it next time 😀😀👍👍
I used zinzer primer after researching painting MDF edges, it's pricey but gives a great result
Totally agree Kevin, expensive but worth the money 👍👍
Thanks
Hope it was helpful Robert 👍👍
Tq sifoo👍👍👍😃
Sama-sama 😀😀
@4:35 you used Zinnser 123 not BIN's ???? vs @7:27
Apologies I did and if I remember I corrected myself in the video, but that isn’t much use if folk are skimming through it 👍
49 pounds?! I just bought the same for a remodel for $37. You're right about the time between coats 😩. I did a small project with osb once and it took longer than that recommended hour.
It was £49 for two tins, was your $37 for one or two tins? (2.5 litres) 😀👍
@@Hand-i-Craft 1 quart was 11.98 and I bought two. So it was actually a bit over $25 with sales tax however I bought a paint brush as well
@@Hand-i-Craft you'll have to overlook me I suffer from American brain. I automatically assumed quart/gallon. The rest of the world is metric.
👍
How do you paint an OSB floor?
I’ve never painted an OSB floor. My workshop floor is OSB but I used decking oil, not paint
can, brush, drop cloth, Tom Sawyer that's it
Now your just showing off with that draw bridge 🤣🤣🤣🤣 and why shouldn't you 😉
Couldn’t help myself pal😂😂😂👍👍😀😀
Are you Ed Sheeran's Dad?
So the answer to the question: is it cheaper to buy osb and just paint it instead of plywood. hell no
Paint Sprayer
What paint would you recommend to use Sir Miles?