By faaaaaaaar the clearest,broken down in detail and informative vid I've seen in a long time.impressive and clearly spoken words.keep it up young man.im now a subscriber.
I removed the cams and did a cylinder leak down test prior to head removal. That made for a conclusive diagnosis ahead of time, hard numbers, and exact locations of where my leaks were as well as a health checkup of the cylinders, rings, and pistons. Great job of the tear down and videos, though!
I have the same vehicle and when I pulled my engine the oil pan looked good. However, I found ring parts in the oil pick up tube, thus explaining why I had low compression in the #1 cylinder. Once I split the block I also found a broken piston, #1. This is a fairly common problem with this engine. So I'm off to the machine shop now. Keep up the videos, great work
Should remove camshafts to check valve seating, also once cams are removed just put spark plugs in and turn head upside down and pour water on each chamber and see what ports water goes to then you know exactly which are leaking
ok milan i though you was this kind of guy,who just put some fancy soap on your paint but,i show u some respect, nice job u are a perfectionist in the good way,keep the good work
Good job so far! Brief remark - cylinder #1 is next to the timing chain and cylinder #4 is next to the transmission... looking forward to the next episode!
I might have missed it on the video, but if you left the camshafts in the head, then flipped it over to see the valves, some will be open, and some will be closed. I think that it was at the 18 minute mark, give or take.
A great effort Milan, your first strip down of an engine and finding the problem, awesome 👍👍👍 I’m glad you found the fault, looking forward to seeing the next vid now mate 👍👍👍😜👍👍
Milan, on most engines cylinder 1 is the closest to the front of the engine. So from the crank pulley and serpentine belt, it goes 1 2 3 4. Unless Mini specified a different numbering scheme, I think you got 1 and 4 backwards.
Thanks for the series, Its helping me understand the design of the R56 engine, I have a N14 and seems to be ok for now.. But feel I may have to watch these videos again in the future (hopefully not to soon lol). Keep up the good work.
Excellent progress and congrats on an amazing series. The Auto teacher at the Vocational Institute in Oshawa Ontario where I worked used to offer a course where each student provided a motor which was their project to rebuild over the course of the term. Hopefully some of your subscribers are not intimidated but motivated to attempt similar rebuilds .
You check if the valves are seated with the camshafts on? And both cylinder 4 and 2 exhaust valves were slightly open, what a surprise! lol. Bet you if you turn the exhaust camshaft a bit further then you will have 'problem' with valves on cylinder 1 and 3 lol. Actually these 'N' direct injections engines are notorious for failing injectors and/or coils. I am almost certain that you have a faulty injector.
Hi milan, I am also rebuilding my mini engine soon. Though it s a N18 jcw. I guess yours is N14. But thanks for this videos since I am also doing that for the first time.
Both engines are quite similar, but the N18 has some differences like the PCV system, the extra Vanos for the exhaust camshaft, etc. All in all, you should be able to use this video as a guide should you want to rip everything apart :)
Did you rotate your intake cam until all your valves closed ? Could be due cam position , carbon build up on seat with that much gap would have burned up that valve ASAP
Hi. Did you use a location pin in the fly wheel while setting up the camshaft locking tool? Also the tension wheel for the water pump has a service position. You pull out the tab and it clicks on to a tiny tab. Hope that helps
Don't be scared to take stuff apart :) That's how you learn. When you have everything apart, it is alot easier to understand how it works, and see what went wrong
I watch your videos about the mini since the beginning and I would like to know how many kilometers has your engine? And what do you think of carboncleaning at 100000km? Thanks ;)
Hey bro love your videos keep it up and gain as much horsepower you can with the mini. Oh and only reason why BMW and the owners manual say take if off as the same way you put it on is because of even pressure when you releasing the head off that wont create warpage or any other damage to the head.
It is just weird since they want you to remove the inner most bolts and work outwards, when you'd think to remove the outer most bolts and work inwards
milanmastracci yea I see what your saying. It really depends on how the pattern is to put it back on. Most company's say to take it off the same way as you would put it on.
We can argue here about the cylinder. 1 or 4 In traditional German inline engines, cylinder 1 is closest to the timing side, the French however call cylinder 4 as being on the timing side.. The engine being a French-German or German - French or Peugeot-BMW or BMW- Peugeot.. One can argue which is which.. I bet peugeot calls it cylinder 4
You're a bit wrong here... French do not count cylinder 4 as being on the timing side, only Renault used to do this, but for older cars. Starting from around 2005 they came back to normal, just like everyone, cylinder number 4 as being on the gearbox side.
I want to take apart a engine for educational experience. I have a 2005 Nissan Maxima SE as a project car. Having it be over 120,000 miles I really want to take out the engine to clean because it looks horrible after a head gasket leak, antifreeze explosion, years of dust, and a little bit of surface rust on some parts. Removing it will also help in cleaning other things around the bay. If I degrease/sand down the crud all around the engine do I need to apply an anti-rust coating? Will removing carbon buildup increase response and/or horsepower? I'm a noobie to the world of mechanics and I'm going to be enrolling in a auto college class this year. :)
Coincidentally my R56 motor blew. I just happened to stumble upon your videos yesterday while pulling the motor. Anyway I can contact you in case I have any additional questions along the way? I’d also like to know a good source for stock parts to rebuild. I’d forged internals are slightly more expensive I wouldn’t mind getting them but I’m budgeting. Lol thanks man
I want to swap my Citroen DS4 N12 1.6L engine for Peugeot 307 2.0L engine. My question is will I need to change the ECU and the key set and the fuse box? Or do i need to reprogram my key?. There are similarity between the 2 engine, the sitting is perfect, I just want to have more information before proceeding. Thanks in advance
Hi, thanks for the impressive videos. i leave in South Africa and 4 days back my 2010 Citroen DS3 1.6 THP 155 sport gave me an engine problem and with 232300kms on the clock i'm not complaining. but what worries me is cash for parts they are scares and expensive this side. Well with the videos from part 1 - 5. i think now cause of P1340 could be from leakage from block or piston rings. this a great hope...wish i can call you for more info.
How did you mark everything when you disassembled the engine, so that you know where everything went? On the driver side of that engine its a can of worms, and I understand you can actually connect the thermostat electrical connections incorrectly, and you wont know until you start the engine again.
hey milan! i have this problem with my peugeot 207 GTI it has the same engine and it was a miss fire on cylender 3 and the problem was a broke in the side off the cylender that you cant see it from the top you should remove your pistons and you will see it
I am getting ready to tear down a 2017 Mini Cooper S that I have been told is an F56 (2015 forward) instead of an R56 with an N20 motor (2.0L Turbo) instead of an N18. Does anyone know if the N16 or the N18 timing lock down tool is compatible with my engine. If not, what is a good aftermarket company to buy a tool from, as well as other parts?
I have a customer with the same car where thr timing chain has jumped do you think to just do the timing chain you would have to go through the process of taking the engine out or could you do it in the engine bay
I would use a borescope (amzn.to/2nZxotp) to see if the pistons have come in contact with the valve, as this is an interference engine. If they have made contact, you will have to go through the same process that I am doing, however if they have no, you should be able to perform a timing chain service and be on your ways. The kits have everything included, all of the seals, new chain guides, a new chain, new torque-to-yeild bolts and everything else you would need.
Question: Are you sure about the cylinder numbers? I thought they are numbered 1,2,3,4 counting from the serpentine belt side, but you count from the transmission side. Love to get this confirmed!
WARNING FOR RE-ATTACHING THE FRICTION WHEEL. It is extremely easy to strip the threads for the 3 bolts for the friction wheel. Even when torquing to proper spec mine stripped. Be prepared to have to install a thread repair kit.
I dont even own a mini and love watching this stuff
That's a lie just get a 2012 they are reliable
Just like any other car 🤷♂️I have 53k miles my bro has an infamous n14 with 130k mimes both still running strong
Okay? You must be the biggest looser ever to get mad but hurt for no reason.... peace youngin
By faaaaaaaar the clearest,broken down in detail and informative vid I've seen in a long time.impressive and clearly spoken words.keep it up young man.im now a subscriber.
I removed the cams and did a cylinder leak down test prior to head removal. That made for a conclusive diagnosis ahead of time, hard numbers, and exact locations of where my leaks were as well as a health checkup of the cylinders, rings, and pistons. Great job of the tear down and videos, though!
I have the same vehicle and when I pulled my engine the oil pan looked good. However, I found ring parts in the oil pick up tube, thus explaining why I had low compression in the #1 cylinder. Once I split the block I also found a broken piston, #1. This is a fairly common problem with this engine. So I'm off to the machine shop now. Keep up the videos, great work
Thank you. I am doing it. You are my inspiration
The camshafts were in place when you saw cyl #1 valve not closing entirely?
Should remove camshafts to check valve seating, also once cams are removed just put spark plugs in and turn head upside down and pour water on each chamber and see what ports water goes to then you know exactly which are leaking
Same thing happened to me I just rebuilt the head and not the bottom end because I only have 82k, now it runs great
"Everything is coming off in this video" - Wooo hoooo!!!
Ah I remember the days when I built some engines.. good video!
ok milan i though you was this kind of guy,who just put some fancy soap on your paint but,i show u some respect, nice job u are a perfectionist in the good way,keep the good work
Good job so far!
Brief remark - cylinder #1 is next to the timing chain and cylinder #4 is next to the transmission... looking forward to the next episode!
Ermahgerd these videos are sooo addicting, and fascinating. Keep going buddy, that's gonna one sick mini coop when it's complete.
Great job on the tear down. Excellent detail. Cant wait for the re-build. U the man
Thanks David :) I wouldn't be doing this if it wasn't for the awesome viewers like you!! 👊👊
I might have missed it on the video, but if you left the camshafts in the head, then flipped it over to see the valves, some will be open, and some will be closed. I think that it was at the 18 minute mark, give or take.
Good news, I found out why my engine isn't running properly. Bad news, I found out why my engine isn't running properly...
milanmastracci keep up the awesome work! Can’t wait to see it under its own power
your'e awesome. love watching your videos
You're getting you cylinders wrong #1 cylinder is closes to the timing chain
blackout yep cylinders are wrong. Bet he finds piston broken.
isn't he going to replace it all , anyway ?
A great effort Milan, your first strip down of an engine and finding the problem, awesome 👍👍👍 I’m glad you found the fault, looking forward to seeing the next vid now mate 👍👍👍😜👍👍
Thank you :) I'm glad I found the fault too, now its just a matter of building everything back up 😁👍
Been watching the whole mini series
👊👊👊
Awesome videos! I am so looking forward to seeing the final product! Hope we get to see it on a Dyno!
Milan, on most engines cylinder 1 is the closest to the front of the engine. So from the crank pulley and serpentine belt, it goes 1 2 3 4. Unless Mini specified a different numbering scheme, I think you got 1 and 4 backwards.
mannys9130 it's a euro engine .most likely a Peugeot engine..he's right
MFullaStyle I don't think so.
Can confirm that mannys9130 is correct.
Definitely 1-4 from crank pulley end to gearbox end
Thanks for the series, Its helping me understand the design of the R56 engine, I have a N14 and seems to be ok for now.. But feel I may have to watch these videos again in the future (hopefully not to soon lol). Keep up the good work.
keep up the good work :-) glad you did not have bits in the pan.
I was quite relieved to find nothing.. :)
That 2nd tool you showed at 1:55 is not for an R53 tensioner, but probably works on the R50.
Excellent progress and congrats on an amazing series. The Auto teacher at the Vocational Institute in Oshawa Ontario where I worked used to offer a course where each student provided a motor which was their project to rebuild over the course of the term. Hopefully some of your subscribers are not intimidated but motivated to attempt similar rebuilds .
That sounds awesome!! Sign me up 😉
You check if the valves are seated with the camshafts on? And both cylinder 4 and 2 exhaust valves were slightly open, what a surprise! lol. Bet you if you turn the exhaust camshaft a bit further then you will have 'problem' with valves on cylinder 1 and 3 lol. Actually these 'N' direct injections engines are notorious for failing injectors and/or coils. I am almost certain that you have a faulty injector.
Man this episode was really inspiring!
Glad to hear it Graziano :)
Fantastic video looking forward to the next 1. 👍
Thanks John 👊
hey milan nice job i think u should do some salvage rebuild off copart like b is for build may be a mini f56
or m3
Hi milan, I am also rebuilding my mini engine soon. Though it s a N18 jcw. I guess yours is N14. But thanks for this videos since I am also doing that for the first time.
Both engines are quite similar, but the N18 has some differences like the PCV system, the extra Vanos for the exhaust camshaft, etc. All in all, you should be able to use this video as a guide should you want to rip everything apart :)
brilliant video, you're doing a great job 👏
Did you rotate your intake cam until all your valves closed ? Could be due cam position , carbon build up on seat with that much gap would have burned up that valve ASAP
This is satisfying to watch.. looking forward for part 8 lol
Again, awesome work! I'd love to see how you catalog and makes notes on what you take apart.
Cylinder no1 is the closest to the timing chain!so you have misfire to cylinder no1.keep going!great videos!
You didnt have to pull the motor just to find out its an N14 lol 🤣 Much love my dude. You can rebuild it...make it stronger, faster..
Thats the same engine on the Peugeot 207..
"EP3" i think, need to put this on the title, very informative video, thanks.
Un saludo desde España
Hi. Did you use a location pin in the fly wheel while setting up the camshaft locking tool? Also the tension wheel for the water pump has a service position. You pull out the tab and it clicks on to a tiny tab. Hope that helps
Hats off to you man, you're so young and you're able to do all this. What's the secret?
Don't be scared to take stuff apart :) That's how you learn. When you have everything apart, it is alot easier to understand how it works, and see what went wrong
I’m really excited to see how this engine upgrade progresses. How to stop the motor gumming up with carbon again in the future?
keep up the awesome work! Can’t wait to see it under its own power!
Thanks Nick :) Me too buddy
Excellent as always. SUPER informative!
Nice job again! But u need clean the oil pump for optimize efficiency :)
Thanks Gabriel :) I will be cleaning and inspecting everything before I put it all back together
Awesome video, very high tech. Looking forward to seeing more.
Thanks Johnny 😊 Looking forward to seeing you here for the next one 👍
You inspired me to make car videos
Glad to hear it buddy!! Your ticket get resolved?
I hope i can do things like you in the future. Btw great job and video
Very well done tutorial ! Congrats
Port your head, increase ports, valve size, cams and valve spring upgrade, do full built motor
That's the game plan :)
Great job pal. Keep up the good work
Excellent job
Thank you 😁
What a nice vid, I am from Recife in Brasil South America.
So how did you know it was a valve causing the misfire? And it wasn’t a fuel injector?
Compression test?
great vids nice image quality
Love these videos, the 2 cam sprocket bolts that need replacing....any idea where to get them? Also the crank bolt.
Very good video
Ported and polishe manifold, if its not plastic, its a 30 min job that will give u so much on a simple tune
Keep it great work up. Hope the best.
Thanks brother!! 👊👊👊
Next time somebody complains about the labor cost of a rebuilt, show them this video...
Hi you can list the valve and piston or camshaft do you use to rebuild this motor? Thanks
I'm exited about this 👍👍👍
Good work! Respect!
Thanks Pedro :)
It's pretty much the same for all modern cars
I watch your videos about the mini since the beginning and I would like to know how many kilometers has your engine? And what do you think of carboncleaning at 100000km?
Thanks ;)
very informative:) thanks
Hey bro love your videos keep it up and gain as much horsepower you can with the mini.
Oh and only reason why BMW and the owners manual say take if off as the same way you put it on is because of even pressure when you releasing the head off that wont create warpage or any other damage to the head.
It is just weird since they want you to remove the inner most bolts and work outwards, when you'd think to remove the outer most bolts and work inwards
milanmastracci yea I see what your saying. It really depends on how the pattern is to put it back on. Most company's say to take it off the same way as you would put it on.
Yeah that's what I'm used to. But its cool to see some things are different :)
We can argue here about the cylinder. 1 or 4
In traditional German inline engines, cylinder 1 is closest to the timing side, the French however call cylinder 4 as being on the timing side.. The engine being a French-German or German - French or Peugeot-BMW or BMW- Peugeot.. One can argue which is which.. I bet peugeot calls it cylinder 4
You're a bit wrong here... French do not count cylinder 4 as being on the timing side, only Renault used to do this, but for older cars. Starting from around 2005 they came back to normal, just like everyone, cylinder number 4 as being on the gearbox side.
Thanks for the awesome video ❤️❤️
I want to take apart a engine for educational experience.
I have a 2005 Nissan Maxima SE as a project car. Having it be over 120,000 miles I really want to take out the engine to clean because it looks horrible after a head gasket leak, antifreeze explosion, years of dust, and a little bit of surface rust on some parts. Removing it will also help in cleaning other things around the bay.
If I degrease/sand down the crud all around the engine do I need to apply an anti-rust coating?
Will removing carbon buildup increase response and/or horsepower?
I'm a noobie to the world of mechanics and I'm going to be enrolling in a auto college class this year. :)
Well done sir.
Love your vids, great work. I have learnt so much about my car from following these! What do you do for a day job? Mechanic?
Thanks Ben!! I'm glad to hear :) Just working on my cars and putting a camera in front of it
milanmastracci nice one! Dream job :)
Hey Milan, how to you organize and keep track of all the parts you remove for the reinstall?
LABEL, LABEL, LABEL
Coincidentally my R56 motor blew. I just happened to stumble upon your videos yesterday while pulling the motor. Anyway I can contact you in case I have any additional questions along the way? I’d also like to know a good source for stock parts to rebuild. I’d forged internals are slightly more expensive I wouldn’t mind getting them but I’m budgeting. Lol thanks man
Yeah not a problem buddy!! Send me any questions to my email at milanmastracci(at)gmail(dot)com 👍 I will respond to those faster than the YT comments
milanmastracci thanks man. I’ll send an email just to confirm who I am.
I want to swap my Citroen DS4 N12 1.6L engine for Peugeot 307 2.0L engine. My question is will I need to change the ECU and the key set and the fuse box? Or do i need to reprogram my key?. There are similarity between the 2 engine, the sitting is perfect, I just want to have more information before proceeding. Thanks in advance
Great video
Hi, thanks for the impressive videos. i leave in South Africa and 4 days back my 2010 Citroen DS3 1.6 THP 155 sport gave me an engine problem and with 232300kms on the clock i'm not complaining.
but what worries me is cash for parts they are scares and expensive this side. Well with the videos from part 1 - 5. i think now cause of P1340 could be from leakage from block or piston rings.
this a great hope...wish i can call you for more info.
Hi Man. Great content keep up the good work👍🏎🏎🏎🏎🏎🏎🏎🏎🏎🏎
Thanks Stephen :)
a catch-can might help with the valves.
How did you mark everything when you disassembled the engine, so that you know where everything went? On the driver side of that engine its a can of worms, and I understand you can actually connect the thermostat electrical connections incorrectly, and you wont know until you start the engine again.
The best think I've ever found was Honda Accord with sparkplug istead of oil pan plug bolt.
Oh my gosh.. Well if it works, it works lol
Do you think the same process can be applied for hundyai santro
hey milan!
i have this problem with my peugeot 207 GTI it has the same engine and it was a miss fire on cylender 3 and the problem was a broke in the side off the cylender that you cant see it from the top you should remove your pistons and you will see it
I really hope mine is okay!! We'll see more when I disassemble the engine block
Thanks very much
Where is the R56 will you be finishing it off?????
Maybe a bent valve? I have a 280 engine that I need to take apart.
2:22 no more pressure on the belt
Hi there! Cool videos and cool chanal!
One question
how many miles does it has
It had 70k before I started to take things apart
Shared and liked your video
👊👊👊👊👊
Make this a series
It is...
10/10
I am getting ready to tear down a 2017 Mini Cooper S that I have been told is an F56 (2015 forward) instead of an R56 with an N20 motor (2.0L Turbo) instead of an N18. Does anyone know if the N16 or the N18 timing lock down tool is compatible with my engine. If not, what is a good aftermarket company to buy a tool from, as well as other parts?
I have a customer with the same car where thr timing chain has jumped do you think to just do the timing chain you would have to go through the process of taking the engine out or could you do it in the engine bay
I would use a borescope (amzn.to/2nZxotp) to see if the pistons have come in contact with the valve, as this is an interference engine. If they have made contact, you will have to go through the same process that I am doing, however if they have no, you should be able to perform a timing chain service and be on your ways. The kits have everything included, all of the seals, new chain guides, a new chain, new torque-to-yeild bolts and everything else you would need.
Pull each of the spark plugs out and look through there with the LED borescope I've linked
Thanks I'll have a look and see which root will be the best way to go
Dying for another video coming up haha
Question: Are you sure about the cylinder numbers? I thought they are numbered 1,2,3,4 counting from the serpentine belt side, but you count from the transmission side. Love to get this confirmed!
Yes you are correct. I made a mistake in that area! 👍
@@milanmastracci Great that means I didn't scratch numbers in my valves the wrong order when I sent to machine shop ;)
great video. what engine code is that badboy? n18 or n14?
N14 baby!!!! The problematic headache
8:19 or bits of oil scraper ring 😭
The cylinder walls look too shiny! Need some hone?
WARNING FOR RE-ATTACHING THE FRICTION WHEEL. It is extremely easy to strip the threads for the 3 bolts for the friction wheel. Even when torquing to proper spec mine stripped. Be prepared to have to install a thread repair kit.
Is this the n14 or n18 motor?
N14
I have this engine, the one with no turbo in my Citroen DS4 and would love to swap for Peugeot 307, do anyone have idea what it'll take?
Is this engine a 1.6 thp ???
While you're at it why not just clean the block to make it look cleaner :^)