In this video I show how to wire a DNA 30/20 board. If you have any questions feel free to comment below. Thanks for watching! Evolve DNA30 Datasheet: evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna30.pdf
really appreciate you making this tutorial helps tremendously and you have a nice setup for a work station you should do more build videos you have a knack for it
Hi. Thank you so much for posting this, it's been very helpful. I'm having trouble with my wires though. I purchased soldering flux from Amazon, it comes in a little syringe however it doesn't seem to be working for me. Chances are I'm not doing it right because the reviews were stellar. I added a tiny drop of flux to every wire then placed my soldering iron down like you did in the video but the wires didn't stay. They just fell right out again, What am I doing wrong? Thanks again, I appreciate you posting this.
Rebel Grrrl Vapors if you are only using flux it will not stay because there is nothing holding it in place. Flux is used to prep the wire before soldering (removes corrosion or any imperfections). I do not use separate flux because the solder i have is rosin core which means it has flux built into the middle of the wire. You need to either use rosin core soldering wire or use standard solder wire with flux like you have separate. I hope that made sense.
Thank you so much for your response. I'm just starting out, have no soldering experience and I'm making all the rookie mistakes. Thanks again for the response. I'll get some rosin core and post an update. :-)
Morgan Crawford Hi. Thank you so much for your help. I managed to get all the wires soldered and the chip lights up really great. But now I'm having a different issue. I'm very new to soldering and building mods and the issue I'm having now is I have no idea how to make use of the onboard firing switch. I still soldered wired on to the board where it says fire but I have no idea how to get the device to fire now. I really thought pressing on the onboard fire button would work but I might have skipped a step or I've done it wrong. Thanks again :-)
well if you press the tiny onboard firing button it should work but most people including myself wire in a separate tactile switch using the positive and negative terminals labeled fire on the board. If you have done that and it still isn't working you most likely have a dud switch. Double check the wiring on the board and make sure it is secure and if that doesn't work try and exchange your button.
My dna 30 smells burnt. It stays powered unless i take my tank off. But my button isn't stuck. I think it was on for a few mins. before i realized it was still on. Do u think i need as whole new board?
Michelle Leatherman Could have been the wiring crossing paths internally causing it to always fire. as far as smelling burnt, did you accidentally put the batteries in backwards? Also the DNA should have an auto shut off feature and not let it fire longer than I think 10 seconds so it may be a faulty board. You could try taking it apart and checking the fire button wiring but it may need to be replaced.
+Андрюха Беляков Not sure i understand the question. You can order the board from evolve vapor. If you google their name you will see the website. The board and screen are already connected so you do not buy them seperatley.
idk its up to you. I watched Find My Vapes video and he did when using a Lipo pack. I never have and haven't had a single issue but it wouldn't hurt anything to use them. The boards do have a to of built in protection and monitoring though.
By the way, do you have any advice on how I could get an Led firing button powered? I was thinking I could parallel the LED's circuits with the battery and throw on a resistor but I'm not 100% sure if that would work yet
Actually i built a dna 20 mod a few months back with an led firing button. I spliced the positive wire with the positive 510 wire that way it would only light up when the atty is fired. Make sure to wire in a resistor though.
By splice do you mean make it a parallel circuit to the wire connecting the board to the positive? Sorry I'm still in the learning process haha. I understand where the resistor would play a role though
I mean cutting a section of the wire coating off of the 510 positive wire and twisting/soldering the positive LED wire to it then use some heat shrink tubing to protect the connection. The resistor should attach to the positive leg of the LED. Lol I'm not a very technical person but that's what I did and it works like a champ.
Dude how does this video not have more views, I'm so happy I found this nobody else has put up an actual soldering video
Thanks I appreciate it. I had a hard time with my first mod for the same reason. Glad I could help!
Your explanations was very clear and its really a good tutorial. Eager to see how you put everything in place in your box mod =)
really appreciate you making this tutorial helps tremendously and you have a nice setup for a work station you should do more build videos you have a knack for it
Great tutorial! Thank you Morgan!!
Excellent tutorial bud, cheers
Nice vid ill have to get me one of those mats.
Thanks for the tutorial. I"d love to see how you went about wiring the rest.
Thanks. I will try and record the installation soon. I'll also be putting together an SX350 mod soon so I'll put that up as well if I can.
Sweet!
awesome thnx for the video
Duke Nguyen Thanks for watching!
Thanks
Very good vid and very helpful I am thinking of making my first D n a 30 e pipe
Very helpful ,thanks a million. will you be doing the DNA 200 bored.?
the eabster Thanks! I'll definently be building a mod with it. I'll do my best to upload a video if possible.
Yh please show us how you wire into the actual dna 30 enclosure box! Thanks
Hi. Thank you so much for posting this, it's been very helpful. I'm having trouble with my wires though. I purchased soldering flux from Amazon, it comes in a little syringe however it doesn't seem to be working for me. Chances are I'm not doing it right because the reviews were stellar. I added a tiny drop of flux to every wire then placed my soldering iron down like you did in the video but the wires didn't stay. They just fell right out again, What am I doing wrong? Thanks again, I appreciate you posting this.
Rebel Grrrl Vapors if you are only using flux it will not stay because there is nothing holding it in place. Flux is used to prep the wire before soldering (removes corrosion or any imperfections). I do not use separate flux because the solder i have is rosin core which means it has flux built into the middle of the wire. You need to either use rosin core soldering wire or use standard solder wire with flux like you have separate. I hope that made sense.
Thank you so much for your response. I'm just starting out, have no soldering experience and I'm making all the rookie mistakes. Thanks again for the response. I'll get some rosin core and post an update. :-)
Morgan Crawford Hi. Thank you so much for your help. I managed to get all the wires soldered and the chip lights up really great. But now I'm having a different issue. I'm very new to soldering and building mods and the issue I'm having now is I have no idea how to make use of the onboard firing switch. I still soldered wired on to the board where it says fire but I have no idea how to get the device to fire now. I really thought pressing on the onboard fire button would work but I might have skipped a step or I've done it wrong. Thanks again :-)
well if you press the tiny onboard firing button it should work but most people including myself wire in a separate tactile switch using the positive and negative terminals labeled fire on the board. If you have done that and it still isn't working you most likely have a dud switch. Double check the wiring on the board and make sure it is secure and if that doesn't work try and exchange your button.
My dna 30 smells burnt. It stays powered unless i take my tank off. But my button isn't stuck. I think it was on for a few mins. before i realized it was still on. Do u think i need as whole new board?
Michelle Leatherman Could have been the wiring crossing paths internally causing it to always fire. as far as smelling burnt, did you accidentally put the batteries in backwards? Also the DNA should have an auto shut off feature and not let it fire longer than I think 10 seconds so it may be a faulty board. You could try taking it apart and checking the fire button wiring but it may need to be replaced.
What is the diameter of the green board
Write the link of website where to order of 30 Wat?
+Андрюха Беляков www.evolvapor.com/shop.php
Hi where you can order cost 30 Wat ,or the screen cable?
+Андрюха Беляков Not sure i understand the question. You can order the board from evolve vapor. If you google their name you will see the website. The board and screen are already connected so you do not buy them seperatley.
Should I take the extra procaution of using resetable fuses to protect the chip? Not sure on what to do
idk its up to you. I watched Find My Vapes video and he did when using a Lipo pack. I never have and haven't had a single issue but it wouldn't hurt anything to use them. The boards do have a to of built in protection and monitoring though.
i started the build, i said screw it and didn't use any fuses lol
you should be fine... What type of box / batteries are you going with?
I'm using and altoids container and lipos lol
lol I think you should be ok. You can always go back later and add fuses if you feel uncomfortable.
Is there suppose to be a grounding wire?
daGman713 the only ground I use is to the negative side of the 510 connection.
By the way, do you have any advice on how I could get an Led firing button powered? I was thinking I could parallel the LED's circuits with the battery and throw on a resistor but I'm not 100% sure if that would work yet
Actually i built a dna 20 mod a few months back with an led firing button. I spliced the positive wire with the positive 510 wire that way it would only light up when the atty is fired. Make sure to wire in a resistor though.
By splice do you mean make it a parallel circuit to the wire connecting the board to the positive? Sorry I'm still in the learning process haha. I understand where the resistor would play a role though
I mean cutting a section of the wire coating off of the 510 positive wire and twisting/soldering the positive LED wire to it then use some heat shrink tubing to protect the connection. The resistor should attach to the positive leg of the LED. Lol I'm not a very technical person but that's what I did and it works like a champ.
Haha no worries man neither am I but that makes sense to me. So where would the negative to the LED go than?
same process as the positive wire (minis the resistor) just with the negative lead on the 510.
Where can you get the chips from?
www.evolvapor.com/shop.php
Thanks man!
np