A shot out to K-Train Garage. This is the best video that i have seen, he was very knowledgeable and professional, he showed the viewers no more and no less than what we needed to know. He didn't wast anytime showing the viewers stuff that was not important like most others do. I like this guy, and i learned exactly what i needed to know. Thank you for sharing. Grady Tatum.
I found the production connector right behind the ash tray had a burnt pin on the red wire that runs to the resistor control assembly. I cut it and spliced the red wire together. Also had a loose pin on the connector to blower motor. Found all of this after I had replaced resistor control assembly and the blower motor.
On this Actuator I was looking at it and found I was able to open it up very carefully popping the tabs around it and and using 2 real small flat screwdriver's tp pry it open. after I open it I remove the motor that was real easy and saw there was nothing wrong with it. I hook up a 9v battery to check the motor and it was fine. The only thing I saw was the gears needed greased so I lube the sprockets and gave it a real good greasing and put it back together and it has been working great for over a year now no more clicking
Thanks just saved me a lot of money. Have any trouble with it shifting hard. I'm thinking it's the transmission but the mechanic I took it to says it's the motor mount.
+blackops7121 Mine shifted hard when there was a transmission fluid leak, check the fluid levels. The 4L60-E transmission will shift hard if the fluid pressure drops from low fluid levels if its sloshing around when taking turns and bumps.
i just did this repair and it was successful. It was a little tricky to do the replacement because of the small space and the angle trying to get the ratchet to take the hex screws off.
Ty for the video. You may have seen initial startup procedures wrong as a child and it just hung with you. When you first put the key in the ignition you should place the key in ACC for a few seconds and then turn it over. It allows time for the fuel pump to build pressure before starting. Cya!
I switched out the heat resistor with a new one and did not take out the fuse prior.. So now, I have heat in full blast (thank God) but now my blower won't shut off unless I take the fuse out. What would the problem be? It's starting to get cold and I really need my car to work properly.
@K-train garage, I see those plastic pins that hold the module/resistor in. They look like they’re hot glued in or something. Did you just pry or break the module out? I don’t see any torx or Phillips type head on them.
Mine on my '03 might not be working properly anymore. It only turns on on setting number 2, but 1, 3, 4, and 5 don't so im thinking this could be it as far as where the problem is.
Yes, sounds like it is the blower motor resistor I replace in the video. IMO, it's cheap enough to try just replacing it to see if you get full control back.
@@KTrainGarage I have an 04 Impala and the fan would only blow intermittently for a while and now it has stopped. I checked fuses and they were good. I can feel cold and hot air trickle out when I use AC or heat, just no fan. I bought a new BCM/resistor and was trying to replace it today. I found that the old one is mounted with what looks like rivets and not screws. The rivet like head has a hole in the center. Have you ever seen this before? I thought maybe a Torx or hex bit would work, but there is nothing to grab inside the hole of the rivet head. How do I get the BCM/resistor out? Also, I plugged in all the harnesses to the new resistor and blower motor and the fan did not work. Is this a sign that the fan or dash environmental control panel needs replacing? How do I test these to see which needs replacing?
Question: 04 Impala, no heat in front defrost mode, no heat in floor mode and no heat on driver side in vent mode (heat comes in on passenger side ONLY). Will replacing the blower control module fix this? COMMENT: no clicking sounds, I hear and feel things changing from front defroster, to mix with floor, to mix with floor and vent, to vent only. THOUGHTS: I don't think its an y door actuators, I'm not sure where to go from here. Need help please, winter is starting up here in Colorado.
What was your car doing that you replace this module, I am curious because my fan won't shut off even when I remove the fuses on driver in passenger door panel, it only stopped when I pulled the one you pulled from under the hood?
Yea I have a question I replace my AC blower on my 2005 impala and check on my computer and everything is good but it just don't blow could it be my bcm
+thomas lundy Sounds like you had the same problem that I did. Replacing the Blower Control Module will fix the control of the fan so it only runs when it is switched on. This video is how to do that by changing out the bad controller on the bottom of the fan box which is GM part number 15-81727.
Check alternator voltage at idle and when revved, might be dieing. I think it should be 13.8v on these cars. If alternator is okay, could be stressed wires or bad contacts. Check blower fuse and relay contacts in the fuse group we look at in the video for corrosion. Also could be connector or wires for resistor or motor.
I have a 2004 Chevy Impala. I was at work on lunch and my heat/blower likes to not work sometimes, so I smack under the glove box and it kicks on. Well when I did that, this time my whole car died & will not crank over at all. Only thing that comes on is the headlights and inside light when you open the door. No dash lights nothing. Please help.
Since you still have some power, it's probably a blown fuse. I would remove the blower fuse in the video, then check the rest of the fuses. Replace ones you find blown, leave the blower one removed, and you should be able to start and drive it again. Long term, you probably have a short circuit somewhere in the climate systems. You need to find it or this will keep happening.
GEN3RAL ZOD thats how mines was. Except when I did that the whole car shut down and wouldn't start. Turned out to be a bad main fuse cause it still has trouble with the blower kicking on.
hello, I have a 2005 chevy impala base model 3.8L the problem I'm having is when I turn the heat on it blows warm out of the right side vents but blows cold out of the left side vent.. can you tell me what's going on?
+Kelvin Hardnett On the side of the HVAC air box is 2 heater actuator motors (one for each side) that allow the air box to mix warm air into the ducts from the heater core, or not, depending on your temperature selector. These actuator motors can fail. You should look at how to remove the left heater actuator and see if it looks failed. It is designed so you can remove the actuator without removing the whole HVAC box.
+K-Train Garage Hey there, I was able to get the actuator on the driver's side.. I replaced the old one but nothing changed.. any other things that may cause that drivers side to blow cold air while the dial is set on hot air.. and thanks for helping me with this..
+Kelvin Hardnett The gears that move the air passage dampers fins may be broken or stuck. If you aren't hearing any clicking or tapping then that may be the case. You also may just need to move the temp settings dial slowly from warm to cool and back to get the fins to reset.
Sounds like the blend door actuator motor, or the damper fins they control. Can you hear the blend doors move when you switch the temperature dial from hot to cold ?
Some of you people be like: I’m tryna unscrew a flat head screw with a Phillips head but it won’t work...any ideas? 🤔🤔🤔🙄 love you all even the special ones 😘
Then simply turn the key off then turn it on and off 3 times, then try to start it for 10 seconds, then release the key but leave it in the on position, then wait 10 minutes the security light will shut off, now you can start the car
Hi , my impala is a 2005 and it's not blowing any cold or hot air through the vents ... Blower fan is not working... It was working when I bought it from someone but had to unplug the harness from the blower control module or resistor for my ac or blower to shut off and then plug the harness back in whenever I started my car again in order to use my AC again... Now the blower is not kicking on at all and nothing seems to be wrong with the 20 amp fuse on the driver side or the 30 amp relay under the hood .. Any idea what might be wrong? I don't want to just throw parts at it...
Sounds like Blower Control Module is bad - same part as in this video. It moves the air in the cabin for hot and cold and is mixed by the blend doors to whatever you set the temperature slider to.
+K-Train Garage thank you for replying, i will replace the bcm just like in the video i agree that might be it, now do you have to be careful when you remove it because i just took a look and the mount holes are covered by a flat piece of plastic how do you remove it and mount the new one? use the other mointing holes and screws? i woul appreciate it so much if you can point me in the right direction here thanks!
Yeah if it has never been changed the module will be attached with a plastic rivet. It's permanent. You will need to cut or drill it out. Replacement modules have an extra hole you can put a fine thread screw through to reattach it near the original plastic rivet hole.
+K-Train Garage thanks it was actually the 30amp fuse that you pull out in the video now it's blowing again ac working but only highest setting and will stay on even with car shut off and key out I guess I have to replace the bcm right?
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When you first dropped the fuse panel cover right off the bat I thought to myself, "yup, I found my video" lol! Never fails :-) Great video!
A shot out to K-Train Garage. This is the best video that i have seen, he was very knowledgeable and professional, he showed the viewers no more and no less than what we needed to know. He didn't wast anytime showing the viewers stuff that was not important like most others do. I like this guy, and i learned exactly what i needed to know. Thank you for sharing. Grady Tatum.
I found the production connector right behind the ash tray had a burnt pin on the red wire that runs to the resistor control assembly. I cut it and spliced the red wire together. Also had a loose pin on the connector to blower motor. Found all of this after I had replaced resistor control assembly and the blower motor.
On this Actuator I was looking at it and found I was able to open it up very carefully popping the tabs around it and and using 2 real small flat screwdriver's tp pry it open. after I open it I remove the motor that was real easy and saw there was nothing wrong with it. I hook up a 9v battery to check the motor and it was fine. The only thing I saw was the gears needed greased so I lube the sprockets and gave it a real good greasing and put it back together and it has been working great for over a year now no more clicking
Thanks just saved me a lot of money. Have any trouble with it shifting hard. I'm thinking it's the transmission but the mechanic I took it to says it's the motor mount.
+blackops7121 Mine shifted hard when there was a transmission fluid leak, check the fluid levels. The 4L60-E transmission will shift hard if the fluid pressure drops from low fluid levels if its sloshing around when taking turns and bumps.
i just did this repair and it was successful. It was a little tricky to do the replacement because of the small space and the angle trying to get the ratchet to take the hex screws off.
Ty for the video. You may have seen initial startup procedures wrong as a child and it just hung with you. When you first put the key in the ignition you should place the key in ACC for a few seconds and then turn it over. It allows time for the fuel pump to build pressure before starting. Cya!
I switched out the heat resistor with a new one and did not take out the fuse prior.. So now, I have heat in full blast (thank God) but now my blower won't shut off unless I take the fuse out. What would the problem be? It's starting to get cold and I really need my car to work properly.
hello ive replaced my blower motor and resistor and still not blowing air . Would you what it could be? thanks
I’m having same problem checking fuse and relays next
@K-train garage, I see those plastic pins that hold the module/resistor in. They look like they’re hot glued in or something. Did you just pry or break the module out? I don’t see any torx or Phillips type head on them.
did u ever find how to take them out ?
Oh man I sold that car last year. I think I had to *gently* break it out but do it without bending the screws.
Mine on my '03 might not be working properly anymore. It only turns on on setting number 2, but 1, 3, 4, and 5 don't so im thinking this could be it as far as where the problem is.
Yes, sounds like it is the blower motor resistor I replace in the video. IMO, it's cheap enough to try just replacing it to see if you get full control back.
@@KTrainGarage I have an 04 Impala and the fan would only blow intermittently for a while and now it has stopped. I checked fuses and they were good. I can feel cold and hot air trickle out when I use AC or heat, just no fan. I bought a new BCM/resistor and was trying to replace it today. I found that the old one is mounted with what looks like rivets and not screws. The rivet like head has a hole in the center. Have you ever seen this before? I thought maybe a Torx or hex bit would work, but there is nothing to grab inside the hole of the rivet head. How do I get the BCM/resistor out? Also, I plugged in all the harnesses to the new resistor and blower motor and the fan did not work. Is this a sign that the fan or dash environmental control panel needs replacing? How do I test these to see which needs replacing?
You didn't show how to take out the resister.... that's what I needed to see.
That is the resister
Question: 04 Impala, no heat in front defrost mode, no heat in floor mode and no heat on driver side in vent mode (heat comes in on passenger side ONLY). Will replacing the blower control module fix this?
COMMENT: no clicking sounds, I hear and feel things changing from front defroster, to mix with floor, to mix with floor and vent, to vent only.
THOUGHTS: I don't think its an y door actuators, I'm not sure where to go from here. Need help please, winter is starting up here in Colorado.
What was your car doing that you replace this module, I am curious because my fan won't shut off even when I remove the fuses on driver in passenger door panel, it only stopped when I pulled the one you pulled from under the hood?
Yea I have a question I replace my AC blower on my 2005 impala and check on my computer and everything is good but it just don't blow could it be my bcm
Any videos for 2010 impala LT. My car parts look nothing like that
The fan was keep running after motor turn off so I remove that green thing and it stop so what should I do ?
+thomas lundy Sounds like you had the same problem that I did. Replacing the Blower Control Module will fix the control of the fan so it only runs when it is switched on. This video is how to do that by changing out the bad controller on the bottom of the fan box which is GM part number 15-81727.
I’ve got one that when you stop it just stops blowing completely and then when you take off again it starts blowing again any suggestions
Check alternator voltage at idle and when revved, might be dieing. I think it should be 13.8v on these cars.
If alternator is okay, could be stressed wires or bad contacts.
Check blower fuse and relay contacts in the fuse group we look at in the video for corrosion.
Also could be connector or wires for resistor or motor.
Why new module came with wires on it. Why is that?
My 2005 Impala AC/Heat works but is not blowing at all.. Would this be the HVAC BCM
+murff2murff Yes it is likely. Check your fuses to be sure before buying new parts.
I have a 2004 Chevy Impala. I was at work on lunch and my heat/blower likes to not work sometimes, so I smack under the glove box and it kicks on. Well when I did that, this time my whole car died & will not crank over at all. Only thing that comes on is the headlights and inside light when you open the door. No dash lights nothing. Please help.
Since you still have some power, it's probably a blown fuse. I would remove the blower fuse in the video, then check the rest of the fuses. Replace ones you find blown, leave the blower one removed, and you should be able to start and drive it again.
Long term, you probably have a short circuit somewhere in the climate systems. You need to find it or this will keep happening.
K-Train Garage yes. It was a blown fuse. The main fuse it was corroded bad. Paid 4 bucks for a new one and it started right up. Thanks for the help.
I have a 04 impala blower won't work all the time. If I hit under the passenger side dashboard it works do u think its this module?
GEN3RAL ZOD either the module in the video or might be the fuse in the video as Matthew Bragg discovered.
GEN3RAL ZOD thats how mines was. Except when I did that the whole car shut down and wouldn't start. Turned out to be a bad main fuse cause it still has trouble with the blower kicking on.
What size screw is holding the blower control module?
7/32
hello, I have a 2005 chevy impala base model 3.8L the problem I'm having is when I turn the heat on it blows warm out of the right side vents but blows cold out of the left side vent.. can you tell me what's going on?
+Kelvin Hardnett On the side of the HVAC air box is 2 heater actuator motors (one for each side) that allow the air box to mix warm air into the ducts from the heater core, or not, depending on your temperature selector. These actuator motors can fail. You should look at how to remove the left heater actuator and see if it looks failed. It is designed so you can remove the actuator without removing the whole HVAC box.
+K-Train Garage
Hey there, I was able to get the actuator on the driver's side.. I replaced the old one but nothing changed.. any other things that may cause that drivers side to blow cold air while the dial is set on hot air.. and thanks for helping me with this..
+Kelvin Hardnett The gears that move the air passage dampers fins may be broken or stuck. If you aren't hearing any clicking or tapping then that may be the case. You also may just need to move the temp settings dial slowly from warm to cool and back to get the fins to reset.
+K-Train Garage
ok great.. I will check that out.. I didn't hear any clicking so noises.. thanks and I'll definitely let you know when I find out
+Kelvin Hardnett Did you ever find out what it was? I have the same problem.
Hay mine blows cold but ot as hard could it be that module
Can help me on my AC/HEATER unit not working. It blows Hot in summer and cold in winter.. what is it ??
Sounds like the blend door actuator motor, or the damper fins they control. Can you hear the blend doors move when you switch the temperature dial from hot to cold ?
K-Train Garage no
I think i so.yes well it sounds different more heavy on the heater side.
And all the modes work.
Talking about crook in neck
When you put the blower in the one I had in before you do it smells like it's burning
Some of you people be like: I’m tryna unscrew a flat head screw with a Phillips head but it won’t work...any ideas? 🤔🤔🤔🙄 love you all even the special ones 😘
I have a 05 I change the bcm for the fan but it work hot air coming from my ac vents do anyone no the issue
Temp control on heat instead of cool and fan on and a.c. on
Would this work on the 2002 Chevy Impala?
Just get rid of it
I have 280k miles on my Impala. this is really the only problematic part. I'm going on my 3rd one
im having the same problem..so is the bcm another name for a resistor??
Yes some list it as blower motor resistor. If your impala or monte carlo is 2000-2005 then GM 15-81727 should do it.
+K-Train Garage okay thanks I have a 2005 Chevy Impala LS and im gonna give it a shot to see if my resistor is in the same spot. thanks!!!
hi on my impala 2005 the blower is on all the time no matter if the switch is off
Martin Martines same situation with me. Even with a brand new one. Did you ever get it fixed?
What I'm tryna figure out is that I changed the starter and the ignition switch but still won't start 02" impala help please
Is the yellow security light staying on when you try to start it?
@@swflscratcher5893 Yes
Then simply turn the key off then turn it on and off 3 times, then try to start it for 10 seconds, then release the key but leave it in the on position, then wait 10 minutes the security light will shut off, now you can start the car
@@swflscratcher5893 I'll try that
Happens to me sometimes that’s the only way to fix it, it means something caused the key to lose its code, and doing that reprograms it
very helpful
Somebody call a hand surgeon
2003 chevy impala
Nice video however u skipped over the most difficult part....how to remove the tabs. Not helpful 👎🏻
HVAC LOL!! Im not too smart but 12volts is not High Voltage..
brian Harmon heating vacuum air conditioner? Idk thats what i thought it meant
Hi , my impala is a 2005 and it's not blowing any cold or hot air through the vents ... Blower fan is not working... It was working when I bought it from someone but had to unplug the harness from the blower control module or resistor for my ac or blower to shut off and then plug the harness back in whenever I started my car again in order to use my AC again... Now the blower is not kicking on at all and nothing seems to be wrong with the 20 amp fuse on the driver side or the 30 amp relay under the hood .. Any idea what might be wrong? I don't want to just throw parts at it...
Sounds like Blower Control Module is bad - same part as in this video. It moves the air in the cabin for hot and cold and is mixed by the blend doors to whatever you set the temperature slider to.
+K-Train Garage thank you for replying, i will replace the bcm just like in the video i agree that might be it, now do you have to be careful when you remove it because i just took a look and the mount holes are covered by a flat piece of plastic how do you remove it and mount the new one? use the other mointing holes and screws? i woul appreciate it so much if you can point me in the right direction here thanks!
Yeah if it has never been changed the module will be attached with a plastic rivet. It's permanent. You will need to cut or drill it out.
Replacement modules have an extra hole you can put a fine thread screw through to reattach it near the original plastic rivet hole.
+K-Train Garage thanks it was actually the 30amp fuse that you pull out in the video now it's blowing again ac working but only highest setting and will stay on even with car shut off and key out I guess I have to replace the bcm right?
Yes that symptom is very likely a BCM that has failed in the blow on full power mode. Replace it and ventilation should be controllable again.