I own a small 1 man auto shop in PA. I also have a GMC terrain. I change my oil every 3k miles due to the timing chain issues. I have changed at least 60 or more of those chains all due to long oil drain interval.
I barely caught the extented recal when mine was burning oil at 107k miles. They warrantied the piston rings because they made them with too soft of metal. The dealer replaced the chain parts at the time at cost while they were at it. They weren't worn out but they knew about the issue. 2011 4 cylinder AWD. I love the purpose of the vehicle most room in a back seat. AWD AND good gas mileage for those 4 hr skii trips!
@@ThinkBuildTest Mine is a 14 FWD and I bought it with 100k blown up for 900 bucks. If you follow the oil life monitor when it tells you to change it you end up with 10k miles or more between changes. Its just too far for these engines. ALso the ones with Direct Injection end up diluting the engine oil with fuel.
@@eddiereichel9354 I am usually won't go below 40% on an oil life meter. In my opinion the car company only wants to get you through the 5 year warranty. They don't want you getting 200k out of a car. They want you in a perpetual car payment. I have trust issues. I was taught 3k miles. I don't cry if its a little over but you have to look at your oil. If its burnt and soupy. It can't last that long. Usually I will end up running small engines longer than they recommend because the oil is still golden.
I am thinking of putting drive over led up lights in my deck with chain cables for travelling up and down, either way I reckon a plug in leadlight will be necessary because of the shadows created whilst working.
Yes its hard not to get in your own way in tight spaces. I am probably going to try a few different light ideas out. Now that I have the metal ring around the edge using a switch magnet mount would work really well to hold things right where you need them.
The elevator floor won't be able to come up with a tall oil tank under the car. That is what I originally thought I would use till I realized I would be stuck in the down position until the oil finished draining.
@@ThinkBuildTest Correct, but if you have one with wheels then you can just move it out from under the car when you raise the floor. The harbor freight model has a short tank with a tall funnel.
Got the registration in the glove box. Keep forgetting to take time to scrape the old glue off. Keep getting distracted building a pit editing video and working O.T. to pay for it! Lol
If you plan on doing repairs from the pit install a fan in it. Everything from fuel vapor to carbon monoxide settle in them and can be dangerous. Guys have gotten pretty sick from no ventilation in pits.
Better than crawling on the floor?
I own a small 1 man auto shop in PA. I also have a GMC terrain. I change my oil every 3k miles due to the timing chain issues. I have changed at least 60 or more of those chains all due to long oil drain interval.
I barely caught the extented recal when mine was burning oil at 107k miles. They warrantied the piston rings because they made them with too soft of metal. The dealer replaced the chain parts at the time at cost while they were at it. They weren't worn out but they knew about the issue. 2011 4 cylinder AWD. I love the purpose of the vehicle most room in a back seat. AWD AND good gas mileage for those 4 hr skii trips!
@@ThinkBuildTest Mine is a 14 FWD and I bought it with 100k blown up for 900 bucks. If you follow the oil life monitor when it tells you to change it you end up with 10k miles or more between changes. Its just too far for these engines. ALso the ones with Direct Injection end up diluting the engine oil with fuel.
@@eddiereichel9354 I am usually won't go below 40% on an oil life meter. In my opinion the car company only wants to get you through the 5 year warranty. They don't want you getting 200k out of a car. They want you in a perpetual car payment. I have trust issues. I was taught 3k miles. I don't cry if its a little over but you have to look at your oil. If its burnt and soupy. It can't last that long. Usually I will end up running small engines longer than they recommend because the oil is still golden.
@@ThinkBuildTest Your totally spot on. Same thing with "Lifetime Transmission fluid"
@@ThinkBuildTest Most every vehicle on the market I say 5k is a good balance. If its a GM 4 or 6 cylinder then I recommend 3k interval.
I am thinking of putting drive over led up lights in my deck with chain cables for travelling up and down, either way I reckon a plug in leadlight will be necessary because of the shadows created whilst working.
Yes its hard not to get in your own way in tight spaces. I am probably going to try a few different light ideas out. Now that I have the metal ring around the edge using a switch magnet mount would work really well to hold things right where you need them.
The "lift oil drain pan" at harbor freight would probably work pretty well for catching oil in the pit.
The elevator floor won't be able to come up with a tall oil tank under the car. That is what I originally thought I would use till I realized I would be stuck in the down position until the oil finished draining.
@@ThinkBuildTest Correct, but if you have one with wheels then you can just move it out from under the car when you raise the floor. The harbor freight model has a short tank with a tall funnel.
Do your registration there buddy! 😛
and yes, I'm still pumping water. Everything froze solid over the last few days. Ready for a warmer weekend!
Got the registration in the glove box. Keep forgetting to take time to scrape the old glue off. Keep getting distracted building a pit editing video and working O.T. to pay for it! Lol
Sorry about the water.
If you plan on doing repairs from the pit install a fan in it. Everything from fuel vapor to carbon monoxide settle in them and can be dangerous. Guys have gotten pretty sick from no ventilation in pits.
I have a bilge pump already planned to run when the lights are on.
Also we have been blowing a fan in there before working in it.