Such meticulous work honors those that first conceived and built this. For centuries, careful and respectful people like Keith have kept this vital legacy alive. This should be in the National Archive. It's that good. Thank you Keith! SO satisfying to watch you restore this.
Keith I need to see this machine run! lol I'm 70 years old and I ran one one these planners for 2 years, on my first part time job, when I was 20! it was a great plainer and once you run it and got to no it , you could do some really accurate work with it ! So as my daddy or grandpa used to say! GETTER DUNE BUBBER I AIN'T GETTIN ANY YOUNGER!
Once Keith has it running it would be great for you to go to see it cutting chips. I'm sure that Keith will pick your brains out learning how to run it.
Long time subscriber. As I mentioned in another comment on one of your videos, I love to see old machinery and old tools restored and brought back to operation. For the record, I'm not a real wizard. I'm just self-taught in many things. My real name is Michael McCluskey.
Keith, that is one beautiful machine. Really. It wouldn't look as good if it was a different color, nor if the gold was a different color and your scraping made that machine. I really enjoy your video's! Thanks for sharing.
I like the idea of the hand-crank on the main-shaft, but I'd also consider extending the secondary shaft as you did the main, allowing you to move the handle to it and use the gear reduction for really fine tuning your adjustments. Can't wait to see this thing make some chips and curly-cues!!
Keith, if the old shaft was the same size the whole length I would of removed the set screw and gave the far end a couple of raps. As it turned out a longer shaft worked out better for you. I have enjoyed all of your work and don't think I have missed one of your videos.
Looking at this video I think I figured out why you like doing this kind of work so much: You are not in any kind of pressure and can do it as an art form, at your own pace and exactly to your liking, with major satisfaction when the final work result is complete. This is an artistic effort for you, similar to making sculptures, not a mechanics job...
The planer is starting to really come together now. It's looking great with all the surfaces scraped and the fancy black paint job too. Can't wait to see first chips.
I have run into similar situations and have used wax. Heat your part then touch it with some wax, it will follow the heat like solder. I keep wax in my tool boxes just for these situations. You would be surprised of how well it works.
So much fun to watch. I've always been fascinated by bevel gears. Somehow I was always certain yours would work. Love the black paint with gold letters.
I don't think I'll ever understand why someone would click a thumbs down on Keith restoring a piece of machinery over a hundred years old. It's less than one percent so hopefully most of them were just inattentive thumbs up or just looking for some plain metal music videos.
"Thumbs down" doesn't matter. TH-cam robots count every "up or down" as an event. The number of events is what is important to the video creator. Haters think they are doing some bad thing when they "thumb down" but in fact it is a good event to add to the total. Sorry to all of the "know it all" haters that continually bitch and complain about Keith's videos. You actually are helping the channel!
I agree, Keith does his homework, he even used delron to make a mock gear to make sure his machining would work out. He went in admitting that he did not know how to do it, but he did the research and learned a new skill. That is admirable and impressive.
Nice work. Looks good. That tapered key was interesting. I guess they thought disassembly would be a very rare occurrence. Perhaps maintenance 160 years in the future was too distant to worry about! 👍
Or ... perhaps they did things the same way then that we sometimes do now. (Only, in those days, they couldn’t assume problems could be fixed in the software).
Hay, Keith, drill tap and put a screw in that key and use a slide hammer to tug it out. Well after you got it as far as you did, just pound the gear back on and the key would halv probably worked it's way out. owell making a new shaft is always fun.
Should’ve taken it to the wire feed welder and just started stacking tacks on the end of the key, that would’ve forced the key to grow length wise slightly while at the same time giving you more surface area to grab ahold of it and pull it out! Try it next time! My dad got a key out that way that three other guys had given up on. Works great!
I have had good results by in place of driving the shaft out of the gear, drive the gear onto the shaft further. A pipe that is slightly larger than the shaft and key works nice as a punch. Then the key can be removed. After the key is gone, the gear usually comes off with little difficulty.
Farm machinery used the taper key well into the 1990s maybe past 2000. I got out of repairing modern farm machinery in 2000. Now I just work on old stuff. If you have the space to do it drive the gear further onto the shaft to unlock the key, remove the key, then with a clean shaft the gear comes right off. Many times the gear will pull off by hand without even using a puller. A key removal wedge was a standard item in my service call tool box. The wedge looks a lot like a MT removal wedge. the major difference being that the key removal wedge has one edge that is ground at a slight angle off of parallel So as to lock the wedge in place. I actually prefer them to the set screw straight key. But then again I likely have done 100s of each kind of keying system.
@@Proverbhouse Good comment and explanations . with you all the way as I am old school and used the method of knocking the pulley further on the shaft when there is room to do it ,9 times out of10 it will work depending on how far and hard Buba drove the key in when fitting it.
@@Proverbhouse: I was wondering why he didn't just loosen up that small gear, then do what you suggested, drive the large gear further onto the shaft to loosen up the wedge key. Lack of experience with wedge keys, I guess.
When I was a mechanic, a rosebud tip was one of the best investments I made. It is possible the brass drift was harder than that shaft. Spark-proof brass alloy is way harder than British knock-off hub cap. :( soaking the stuck parts submerging in penetrating oil or diesel fuel for a week, or you could spray all the potentially stuck parts the day ( every day) you decide to take it apart - soaking time is your friend! Stop and consider the physics of removing stuck parts. Due to the conservation of momentum (mass times velocity) and the conservation of energy 1/2 mass times (energy squared) your hammer should weigh more than the part you are trying to move, the shaft or the gear. At some point you have to get a gear puller The sooner the better, a stuck, mushroomed shaft needs to be shrunk. Best way to do it is hot/ cold and puller, after that does not work, drill out the shaft - as the shaft thins/weakens the mushroomed area with successive drilling, you can use your puller to remove the shaft, using a pin-type attachment to reach the bottom of the drilled hole. Take care to shape hole-pin contact for good fit and avoid mushrooming. Have ever seen one of those toys with a wood frame and 5 ball bearings, hung so they just touch, from a vee of monofilament line? The balls are hardened to ensure elastic collisions and conservation of energy. (“plastic” collisions cause permanent deformation such as mushrooming) Experimenting with the toy, lifting one ball and letting it swing causes it to stop when it hits the row of balls and one ball to fly off the other end, just as if the other balls were not there! Repeat the process with similar results with the number of balls flying out equalling with the balls coming in! The process repeat until the energy wastes away through friction and heating with the air and the string. You can add plastic deformation to the system by sticking some clay, tape or other deformable substance to the balls. Snap-On makes a tough, hardened set of pullers which can be likely be bought right at a sale.
Drilling a hole down to the center of the key should help you get penetrating oil to the rust. You are allowed to express your disapproval with the assembler who neglected to lube the shaft/gear before assembly. I like the idea posted here suggesting a set screw that presses on the key.
Nice work Keith! I love seeing these machines that helped build America being restored and used once again. Just a thought, you can purchase, or in your case make, a keyed shaft socket. My thought would be to used a socket and ratchet wrench on the shaft instead of a fixed position handle. Just a thought maybe. Keep up the nice work!!
Don't worry about historical accuracy. There are already modifications made in the past, such as the tapped hole in the gear for a handle. Most old machinery has been modified to some degree for ease of operation, when it was used everyday.
Just curious, could you have drilled a threaded hole into the key and pulled it out with a slide hammer? Our mechanics use those all the time to pull tapered pins. Btw. pushing that rod just causes the tapered key to jam even tighter. Should have been easier to push the gear back, so the key comes loose
That's just what I was going to suggest. I've pulled them before by Tig welding a cut off grade 8 bolt to the key and then threading a slide hammer on to the bolt. The residual heat from welding helps break the key loose as well.
I came here to make the same suggestion. Always more than 1 way to skin a cat. Might as well replace the old rusty pitted shaft while you are at it lol.
@@steamfan7147 I've seen that work in some freaking hard case situations - Andrew Camarata did it on some big crawler or something. I couldn't believe he pulled it off (ba dum dum!) also Marty T down in New Zealand did this a time or two.
Lots of hit-and-miss engine flywheels are held on with those tapered gib keys... I imagine that really locks things in place. Probably not so important here. Looking good, thanks for sharing.
All original is good, but updated with new technology to move, adjust and monitor would in my opinion get a nice touch. A DRO of sorts would be awesome. And perhaps a frequency converter for different operations. I know, that not original.....but combining different eras of technology get me going.
Hi Keith. When you started to remove the gear I was hoping you would stop and try it next video. The reason being is that 'shopdogsam' did an excellent video on removing flywheels etc held in place with those type of keys a couple of years ago. His system worked very well with a high success rate. What he did was weld an extension onto the key and the pulled the key out. Rod
You could have done a hex or square shaft on the end. So instead of the crank you could have used a ratchet with socket. The ratchet being easier and directional. Then slip it off and not need to make a new crank. Just my 2 pennies.
It would be interesting to compare the original bevel gear for fit compared to you new one. The new one seems to have a lot of play in it and from what I saw of the original, it was only a little bit of tooth that was missing from the least important end - so I'd prefer the original gear ! As for the handwheel, depending on how fast the shaft rotates, it'd be a neat idea to put a sliding key on the handle so it can be disengaged from the shaft for when the shafts spins faster - presumably under power.
The key is called a gib head key and are a pain if they lock on. However if you give the wheel a clout at the centre boss then they would tend to loosen the key. We then used a gib key remover. It was called a boomerang and how they were made is they had slight taper on the edge that engaged against the gib head.. This stopped the Gib head from breaking off. Gib heads where never clouted into the keyway and wheel boss but just a firm bedding tap to get the “keyed result”.
Well done. This planner video serie makes it like Christmas when You launch a new episode. Early in the video, time 5 minutes, You start the battle to remove the gear from the shaft. Why not put the lot in the press and press out the shaft from the gear and save both parts?
Hi Keith, It’s certainly coming along well isn’t it? One point I thought of when you were fitting the bevel gears, how are you going to compensate for any difference in backlash between the new and old components. There will be small differences between the relationships of these gears because one of the four components was machined over one hundred years after the others and yet to get meshed in. So you may set it correctly for raising the frame only to have it cock when lowering, or visa versa. May not of course make a lot of difference in the scheme of things. Regards
Actually Keith when you were banging away at that shaft trying to get the wedge key out, if you think about it if you had knecked it back the other way the key would have come loose because the key was compressed more as you banged on the shaft, knocking the shaft the other way would have loosed the wedge key try it next time ;)
How about a plain hand wheel with no handle/knob about 10" dia on the end of that upper shaft ? That way you don't have to reach all the way above the shaft and can just grip the bottom rim of the wheel several times to rotate the shaft 360 degrees. If you make the wheel a couple of inches bigger than the gear you can keep your knuckles away from the gear teeth. Should be easier to adjust from floor level. Also if the shaft is powered from the other gear and flat belt there is not a handle to come around and bonk you on the head... Great work, enjoy your videos.
WHAT !?!?!?! You painted and didn't show US !! How are we to live vicariously through you without a painting montage? BTW, looks very good. I can't wait to see how big those chips are going to be.
Kieth Rucker "did not know it couldn't be done, so he went and did it". That is how the geniuses among us; keep inventing things that we would never have; it is was not for the Keith Rucker's, etc, etc and ET-CET-ERA! Praise Jesus for that.
I was a little surprised that you didn't get the bevel gear and support loose and try driving the key out from the back with a pin punch. Still might not have worked, but seems like it would have been easy to try.
Keith really enjoying bringing this thing back to life. What I'm curious about is if you raise and lower the gantry does the gantry stay square to the table and does it repeat? For most jobs it wouldn't matter since I assume you'd make all the cutter adjustments on the cutting head (correct planer term?) Keep up the good work.
Hello Keith, Thanks for all your interesting videos and the website full of great info. You mentioned at 15:41 the castings and parts are all painted... May I ask what type of paint did you use or rather do you recommend for doing a machine rebuild (cast iron late 50's era)? Thanks again for your time and great videos. J.
When Keith says he really needs to get that planer moving again, that's code for getting it moved so he can make room for more stuff. See how he tries to deceive us, haha.
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Such meticulous work honors those that first conceived and built this. For centuries, careful and respectful people like Keith have kept this vital legacy alive. This should be in the National Archive. It's that good. Thank you Keith! SO satisfying to watch you restore this.
Keith I need to see this machine run! lol I'm 70 years old and I ran one one these planners for 2 years, on my first part time job, when I was 20! it was a great plainer and once you run it and got to no it , you could do some really accurate work with it ! So as my daddy or grandpa used to say! GETTER DUNE BUBBER I AIN'T GETTIN ANY YOUNGER!
Haha me too
Once Keith has it running it would be great for you to go to see it cutting chips. I'm sure that Keith will pick your brains out learning how to run it.
He's working on it,so hold on young man. ;)
The black and gold looks great!
Long time subscriber. As I mentioned in another comment on one of your videos, I love to see old machinery and old tools restored and brought back to operation. For the record, I'm not a real wizard. I'm just self-taught in many things. My real name is Michael McCluskey.
Keith, that is one beautiful machine. Really. It wouldn't look as good if it was a different color, nor if the gold was a different color and your scraping made that machine. I really enjoy your video's! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the vid Keith, I'm 72 and have been dodging covid just so I can see this thing running,
Love to watch a professional at work...love your work....
I like the idea of the hand-crank on the main-shaft, but I'd also consider extending the secondary shaft as you did the main, allowing you to move the handle to it and use the gear reduction for really fine tuning your adjustments. Can't wait to see this thing make some chips and curly-cues!!
Thank you Keith for another education video. Was having withdrawal; always have to tell myself people have other things they have to do in life.
It is a pleasure to follow your videos!
Keith, Great video sure looking forward to seeing your next video, thanks for sharing your video.!.!.!.
GREAT JOB KEITH, GREAT VIDEO LET'S GO TO WORK...
Thank you Keith, we are all anxious to see this operational.
It's coming together nicely!
That gear looks REAL nice with the gloss black paint and the gold hilights on the raised lettering. Classy! 😊
Pretty awesome. That's a great job. Looking forward to the next steps.
Keith your doing a wonderful job restoring the planer can't wait to see it up and running. 👍👍👍
Boy those parts look sharp! Great work!
you are a good steady thinking engineer !
Of course it will work. We have faith in the Rucker-man :-)
yes we have
Looking good Keith
Keith, if the old shaft was the same size the whole length I would of removed the set screw and gave the far end a couple of raps. As it turned out a longer shaft worked out better for you. I have enjoyed all of your work and don't think I have missed one of your videos.
Thanks for letting us look over your shoulder once again,I enjoy this series.😁
very good video..thanks for your time
Looking at this video I think I figured out why you like doing this kind of work so much: You are not in any kind of pressure and can do it as an art form, at your own pace and exactly to your liking, with major satisfaction when the final work result is complete. This is an artistic effort for you, similar to making sculptures, not a mechanics job...
That machine is beautiful. You are doing a great job. I can't wait to see it run.
I have a visegrip plier with a shaft welded to it that I use as a slide hammer. Sometimes helps with getting parts disassembled.
Enjoyed
The planer is starting to really come together now. It's looking great with all the surfaces scraped and the fancy black paint job too. Can't wait to see first chips.
Great job Kieth, thanks for the update
I never doubted you.
Machining castings is my favorite thing to watch.
I have run into similar situations and have used wax. Heat your part then touch it with some wax, it will follow the heat like solder. I keep wax in my tool boxes just for these situations. You would be surprised of how well it works.
So much fun to watch. I've always been fascinated by bevel gears. Somehow I was always certain yours would work. Love the black paint with gold letters.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Looking very nice.
I don't think I'll ever understand why someone would click a thumbs down on Keith restoring a piece of machinery over a hundred years old. It's less than one percent so hopefully most of them were just inattentive thumbs up or just looking for some plain metal music videos.
"Thumbs down" doesn't matter. TH-cam robots count every "up or down" as an event. The number of events is what is important to the video creator. Haters think they are doing some bad thing when they "thumb down" but in fact it is a good event to add to the total. Sorry to all of the "know it all" haters that continually bitch and complain about Keith's videos. You actually are helping the channel!
I really enjoy your work , makes me get motivated in my little shop . I like your positive can do attitude .
Getting closer Keith.. the excitement grows 👍
Your bevel gear looks and works perfectly. Great job.
"...no way it was going to work... But, uh, it does."
Lol. Uncle Keith smackin' around the pesky know-it-all kids.
I agree, Keith does his homework, he even used delron to make a mock gear to make sure his machining would work out. He went in admitting that he did not know how to do it, but he did the research and learned a new skill. That is admirable and impressive.
He wasn't even surprised.
Seriously doubt kids are the ones posting know it all comments.
@@the_hate_inside1085 Boys with Beards ®
Nice work. Looks good. That tapered key was interesting. I guess they thought disassembly would be a very rare occurrence. Perhaps maintenance 160 years in the future was too distant to worry about! 👍
Or ... perhaps they did things the same way then that we sometimes do now. (Only, in those days, they couldn’t assume problems could be fixed in the software).
I don't suppose they offered a lifetime warranty.
Those keys normally had a lip at the end so one could (theoretically) pull it out. This one was butchered and lost its lip.
Hay, Keith, drill tap and put a screw in that key and use a slide hammer to tug it out.
Well after you got it as far as you did, just pound the gear back on and the key would halv probably worked it's way out.
owell making a new shaft is always fun.
Amazingly true running gear! Hundred times faster than it has every before turned in its life, I bet.
Should’ve taken it to the wire feed welder and just started stacking tacks on the end of the key, that would’ve forced the key to grow length wise slightly while at the same time giving you more surface area to grab ahold of it and pull it out! Try it next time! My dad got a key out that way that three other guys had given up on. Works great!
It's looking magnificent!
Well another brick in the wall baby steps some time soon it will be done hopefully !! Thanks Keith enjoy watching!!
Great progress!
amazing series. thank you
I have had good results by in place of driving the shaft out of the gear, drive the gear onto the shaft further. A pipe that is slightly larger than the shaft and key works nice as a punch. Then the key can be removed. After the key is gone, the gear usually comes off with little difficulty.
Looking great, can’t wait for the finish, and see it up and running.
Keith is extraordinarily avuncular, Thanks
I hope you are going to clean those parts as well just as a thank you to him for sending the parts in the first place.
A labor of love
Great video, Keith!
Beautiful work
Lister used those tapered keys right up to the 1950s and they are a PAIN!!
Peter Fletcher, yes also a lot of tannery machinery of the same era in Britain/UK used them . Jib head key,
Farm machinery used the taper key well into the 1990s maybe past 2000. I got out of repairing modern farm machinery in 2000. Now I just work on old stuff. If you have the space to do it drive the gear further onto the shaft to unlock the key, remove the key, then with a clean shaft the gear comes right off. Many times the gear will pull off by hand without even using a puller. A key removal wedge was a standard item in my service call tool box. The wedge looks a lot like a MT removal wedge. the major difference being that the key removal wedge has one edge that is ground at a slight angle off of parallel So as to lock the wedge in place. I actually prefer them to the set screw straight key. But then again I likely have done 100s of each kind of keying system.
@@Proverbhouse Good comment and explanations . with you all the way as I am old school and used the method of knocking the pulley further on the shaft when there is room to do it ,9 times out of10 it will work depending on how far and hard Buba drove the key in when fitting it.
@@Proverbhouse: I was wondering why he didn't just loosen up that small gear, then do what you suggested, drive the large gear further onto the shaft to loosen up the wedge key. Lack of experience with wedge keys, I guess.
It's looking great Keith. I can't wait to see you making chips with it.
When I was a mechanic, a rosebud tip was one of the best investments I made.
It is possible the brass drift was harder than that shaft. Spark-proof brass alloy is way harder than British knock-off hub cap. :(
soaking the stuck parts submerging in penetrating oil or diesel fuel for a week, or you could spray all the potentially stuck parts the day ( every day) you decide to take it apart - soaking time is your friend!
Stop and consider the physics of removing stuck parts. Due to the conservation of momentum (mass times velocity) and the conservation of energy 1/2 mass times (energy squared) your hammer should weigh more than the part you are trying to move, the shaft or the gear.
At some point you have to get a gear puller The sooner the better, a stuck, mushroomed shaft needs to be shrunk. Best way to do it is hot/ cold and puller, after that does not work, drill out the shaft - as the shaft thins/weakens the mushroomed area with successive drilling, you can use your puller to remove the shaft, using a pin-type attachment to reach the bottom of the drilled hole. Take care to shape hole-pin contact for good fit and avoid mushrooming.
Have ever seen one of those toys with a wood frame and 5 ball bearings, hung so they just touch,
from a vee of monofilament line? The balls are hardened to ensure elastic collisions and conservation of energy. (“plastic” collisions cause permanent deformation such as mushrooming)
Experimenting with the toy, lifting one ball and letting it swing causes it to stop when it hits the row of balls and one ball to fly off the other end, just as if the other balls were not there! Repeat the process with similar results with the number of balls flying out equalling with the balls coming in! The process repeat until the energy wastes away through friction and heating with the air and the string. You can add plastic deformation to the system by sticking some clay, tape or other deformable substance to the balls.
Snap-On makes a tough, hardened set of pullers which can be likely be bought right at a sale.
Drilling a hole down to the center of the key should help you get penetrating oil to the rust. You are allowed to express your disapproval with the assembler who neglected to lube the shaft/gear before assembly. I like the idea posted here suggesting a set screw that presses on the key.
No opinion on how you should have done something, I enjoy watching your work , keep it up.
Nice work Keith! I love seeing these machines that helped build America being restored and used once again.
Just a thought, you can purchase, or in your case make, a keyed shaft socket. My thought would be to used a socket and ratchet wrench on the shaft instead of a fixed position handle. Just a thought maybe. Keep up the nice work!!
Eagerly watching your progress to see it running!
You made my day. Thanks for the video. It's appreciated.
Thank you, Keith. Your videos are always informative and interesting. Cheers!
So cool!
Wedge keys are much more resistant to shearing off with a shock impact. This is why mechanical stamping presses use taper keys on the drive gears.
Don't worry about historical accuracy. There are already modifications made in the past, such as the tapped hole in the gear for a handle. Most old machinery has been modified to some degree for ease of operation, when it was used everyday.
Just curious, could you have drilled a threaded hole into the key and pulled it out with a slide hammer? Our mechanics use those all the time to pull tapered pins.
Btw. pushing that rod just causes the tapered key to jam even tighter. Should have been easier to push the gear back, so the key comes loose
That's just what I was going to suggest. I've pulled them before by Tig welding a cut off grade 8 bolt to the key and then threading a slide hammer on to the bolt. The residual heat from welding helps break the key loose as well.
Leave the man alone if he want's to make a pig's ear out of it well let him, alsp could have tried to knock the shaft from the other end
I came here to make the same suggestion. Always more than 1 way to skin a cat. Might as well replace the old rusty pitted shaft while you are at it lol.
@@steamfan7147 I've seen that work in some freaking hard case situations - Andrew Camarata did it on some big crawler or something. I couldn't believe he pulled it off (ba dum dum!) also Marty T down in New Zealand did this a time or two.
@@silasmarner7586 I've done it many times over the past 30 odd years as a machinist/fabricator, has made my life a lot easier many times.
تحية طيبة نشكرك على العمل المتقن
Lots of hit-and-miss engine flywheels are held on with those tapered gib keys... I imagine that really locks things in place. Probably not so important here.
Looking good, thanks for sharing.
Coming together! I would love to see any progress on that massive lathe you got!
Thanks for sharing!
All original is good, but updated with new technology to move, adjust and monitor would in my opinion get a nice touch. A DRO of sorts would be awesome. And perhaps a frequency converter for different operations. I know, that not original.....but combining different eras of technology get me going.
A DRO on the planer. What a hoot!
Hi Keith. When you started to remove the gear I was hoping you would stop and try it next video. The reason being is that 'shopdogsam' did an excellent video on removing flywheels etc held in place with those type of keys a couple of years ago. His system worked very well with a high success rate. What he did was weld an extension onto the key and the pulled the key out. Rod
Looks great
Hiya Keith
You could have done a hex or square shaft on the end. So instead of the crank you could have used a ratchet with socket. The ratchet being easier and directional. Then slip it off and not need to make a new crank. Just my 2 pennies.
It would be interesting to compare the original bevel gear for fit compared to you new one. The new one seems to have a lot of play in it and from what I saw of the original, it was only a little bit of tooth that was missing from the least important end - so I'd prefer the original gear ! As for the handwheel, depending on how fast the shaft rotates, it'd be a neat idea to put a sliding key on the handle so it can be disengaged from the shaft for when the shafts spins faster - presumably under power.
sehr gut, spitze, mach weiter so!!👍👍
The key is called a gib head key and are a pain if they lock on. However if you give the wheel a clout at the centre boss then they would tend to loosen the key.
We then used a gib key remover. It was called a boomerang and how they were made is they had slight taper on the edge that engaged against the gib head.. This stopped the Gib head from breaking off. Gib heads where never clouted into the keyway and wheel boss but just a firm bedding tap to get the “keyed result”.
Hi, thats looking nice, thanks for sharing the video.
Well done. This planner video serie makes it like Christmas when You launch a new episode.
Early in the video, time 5 minutes, You start the battle to remove the gear from the shaft. Why not put the lot in the press and press out the shaft from the gear and save both parts?
Hi Keith, It’s certainly coming along well isn’t it? One point I thought of when you were fitting the bevel gears, how are you going to compensate for any difference in backlash between the new and old components. There will be small differences between the relationships of these gears because one of the four components was machined over one hundred years after the others and yet to get meshed in. So you may set it correctly for raising the frame only to have it cock when lowering, or visa versa. May not of course make a lot of difference in the scheme of things. Regards
I enjoy your videos, I met you at the first Good of the land festival. Keep up the good videos.
Actually Keith when you were banging away at that shaft trying to get the wedge key out, if you think about it if you had knecked it back the other way the key would have come loose because the key was compressed more as you banged on the shaft, knocking the shaft the other way would have loosed the wedge key try it next time ;)
A few guys suggested that. I ain't sayin' he didn't try but it doesn't look like he did.. I dunno....
I have been looking forward to this video! Brilliant!
How about a plain hand wheel with no handle/knob about 10" dia on the end of that upper shaft ? That way you don't have to reach all the way above the shaft and can just grip the bottom rim of the wheel several times to rotate the shaft 360 degrees. If you make the wheel a couple of inches bigger than the gear you can keep your knuckles away from the gear teeth. Should be easier to adjust from floor level. Also if the shaft is powered from the other gear and flat belt there is not a handle to come around and bonk you on the head... Great work, enjoy your videos.
WHAT !?!?!?! You painted and didn't show US !!
How are we to live vicariously through you without a painting montage?
BTW, looks very good. I can't wait to see how big those chips are going to be.
I think I might have tried a puller before sawing that shaft, but good outcome nevertheless. Good job Keith.
Kieth Rucker "did not know it couldn't be done, so he went and did it". That is how the geniuses among us; keep inventing things that we would never have; it is was not for the Keith Rucker's, etc, etc and ET-CET-ERA!
Praise Jesus for that.
06:45 Keith successfully makes a round hole out of a square peg.
Hi Keith,
I wonder how many viewers like me thought why has he left the new shaft longer... then you told us...
Take care
Paul,,
Nice!!
Good Job Keith. I think that shaft needs the same gold paint you used on the patient highlights. Just my 2 cents
Y Pop, give it a little bling!
I was a little surprised that you didn't get the bevel gear and support loose and try driving the key out from the back with a pin punch. Still might not have worked, but seems like it would have been easy to try.
Keith, you should file a patent application for the improvements you are making to the design of this planer.
Hey Keith, The only other thing you might do is screw in a plug in the hole of the gear where the handle was. Just a thought.
Keith really enjoying bringing this thing back to life. What I'm curious about is if you raise and lower the gantry does the gantry stay square to the table and does it repeat? For most jobs it wouldn't matter since I assume you'd make all the cutter adjustments on the cutting head (correct planer term?) Keep up the good work.
I love it when they tell me no way it's gonna work......
Hello Keith, Thanks for all your interesting videos and the website full of great info.
You mentioned at 15:41 the castings and parts are all painted... May I ask what type of paint did you use or rather do you recommend for doing a machine rebuild (cast iron late 50's era)?
Thanks again for your time and great videos. J.
When Keith says he really needs to get that planer moving again, that's code for getting it moved so he can make room for more stuff. See how he tries to deceive us, haha.