Thanks Rob! I was looking at your Century 1/4 HP motor videos as well. I have a Frigidaire refrigerator which is powered by a motor which may be identical to yours. You may have heard it start up in the background of some of my videos.
Thanks David, got some good tips from watching. I know nearly nothing about motors but have one of these that needs some TLC. You've given me confidence knowing what's inside.
I just wanted to thank you again. I successfully got mine torn down, installed new bearings, fixed the stuck Shorting Necklace pieces after running it through my sonic cleaner, had to fix the spring and resprayed the windings with new varnish. I got it back together and it works flawlessly. You were very instrumental in my success.
Excellent video! I have virtually the same motor from a Van Norman Senior brake drum lathe. Made in 1940! It's a Peerless 1HP 15 amp. Has noisy bearings and a frozen ( and funky) shorting gizmo the same as yours and yes that impossible- to- remove snap ring! The bearing is an skf c20 and impossible to find anything on the internet . Will have to replace it with a 6204 that is also much thinner than the original one. Again, great vid and your professional manner is unusually rare (on TH-cam) and much appreciated. 👍😀
Very neat about the Van Norman brake lathe. I have worked on one of their flywheel surfacer machines before, but haven't seen the brake lathe. You're probably best off with the 6204 bearing, using some spacers to position them on the shaft as necessary. Thanks for the positive comment, as well!
Thanks for the vid. I just got an old Delta Table saw that has a 1 HP version of this motor. It was rescued from an old machine shop/auto parts store that was scheduled to be demolished. I plan on doing a complete restoration of the motor and the saw. The motor looks about as rough as yours did but it rotated freely. I took a chance and plugged it in and turned it on. Started and ran fine which is a bonus. I plan on taking it apart and cleaning it up and replacing anything that needs to be. Your vid helped me understand how this motor works and how it comes apart. Very valuable information for me.
Great video, solid content! Only advice I have is you do not want to use brake cleaner on the windings that’s a big no no. Better off pressure washing and then baking it in an oven, I like your DC power supply technique too.
My old drill press from the 1940's has a Delta repulsion induction motor on it. I put new bearings in it and it purrs when running. Also the rating of HP must have been different because it is way stronger than it's 1/3hp rating. I love these antique electric motors and machines. They were built with pride and beautiful.
I have one of these (on my old rockwell jointer), but I want to switch it to a safety on/off switch. However, because it has 4 wires coming out of the motor, I don't necessarily want to change anything. It currently has the linkage type on off switch (which works fine and if all else fails, I'll put it back in and have the safety on off switch maybe be connected to the cord coming in TO the motor instead of from the motor instead). Is it possible to use a safety on/off paddle switch with the 5002? or would I be better off leaving it as it is and placing it elsewhere?
How do you clean cotton windings like on the old century rsir and ge wound rotor motors? Can you clean them or should you leave them alone? If you can what solvents can you use on them?
Hi Chandler. The cotton windings are resistant to virtually all solvents, so use of mineral spirits, acetone, or lacquer thinner can be done. This may remove coatings over the cotton, allowing you to add new coatings afterward.
Prob from either an antique delta or rockwell. I have a very early 40s rockwell which i was lucky enough to obtain for free. Has a different type delta repulsion induction motor with pulleys on either side. It drives the table saw and whatever else used to be there. Im thinking a drill press or bandsaw??? All wood stand but original to the date. Yes you are absolutely correct about the switch hole. Theres a rod that would come up from the bottom to turn the motor on or off as the motor itself was normally located on the bottom shelf along with the belts. I could get a few pics of my setup if youd like. Its kinda buried at the moment though.
Your technique for taking the snap ring out is what I usually do. But there is a tool that looks like your normal snap ring pliers but has flat ends with small knurling on them to grab the ends of the snap ring. I don’t have them so I do the screw driver method haha.
also steering columns use the same ring to hold the spring loaded steering wheel lock on. There is a tool to push the lock down to reveal the ring So it can be removed easier. In this case it’s that cover underneath the snap ring. hard to tell on the video but on steering columns the ring is particularly recessed in the plate. hence the use of the tool.
Left direction would make sense if this came off a delta jointer. And the jointer used a linkage from the motor up to the top of the stand for ON / OFF.
Thanks for the comment! The cleaner is a no-name Chinese model, which I bought from Wal Mart dot com. The cleaner is Zep Industrial Purple degreaser, used at full strength for non-aluminum parts; and Fabuloso household soap for aluminum which would be attached by the caustic Zep purple.
The mark in the middle is "Hard Neutral". It shouldn't run there, as noted. If it did try to move in one direction or the other, it would indicate that the end bell was no quite aligned correctly, which would then throw off the other two marks.
This is the exact video I need, thanks for posting it. I just picked up one of these motors for ten dollars and need to fix it. Fortunately for me it was still attached to a full size Delta drill press. My friend found it at a yard sale. The motor did work until I got it wet when I was cleaning fifty years of dirt and crud off of it. Now it tries to start but pops the GFC. I just spent two hours getting the aluminum multi speed pulley off of it so now I can get inside the motor. This video is going to be my reference for taking it apart and finding out whats wrong with it. Thanks again sir! BTW, I also subscribed to your channel, I have several other old electric motors that I am needing to go through.
David, It took a long time to upload so the video appeared some time in the early morning hours. Lucky you LOL! Yeah, I remember using it when we had the go karts. But at that time it was whatever we could scrounge!
Since it's not brush-lifting, would there be any way to tell if the shorting mechanism is working because otherwise it'd still just keep running as a repulsion motor?
Actually, yes. The repulsion operating mode will try to run much faster than synchronous speed, while the induction mode will try to run at or close to synchronous speed. If the shorting device fails to engage at all, the motor will run at an extremely high speed with quite a lot of brush sparking. If the shorting device is intermittent, there will be speed fluctuations and intermittent brush sparking.
Hi. How would you suggest cleaning a very greasy motor? It's an old motor with cloth covered wires. The stator, armature and windings are just caked with grease (it shares a housing with a geared grease filled transmission). I've heard to use mineral spirits or hot water and soap. Then heat an oven to about 100 degrees and let it dry out for several hours. I figure soap and water may be less aggressive on the old windings, but don't necessarily like the idea of using water. I see you use brake cleaner here. Thanks!
LOL about the PB Blaster being in your face! I've used Aerokroil as well, but it seems to be better at dissolving gum and dried oil more than penetrating rust. When you have to apply heat to a rusted part, it seems that PB Blaster will not vaporize as quickly as Kroil and therefore remains to keep working.
@@davida1hiwaaynet Will have to try and notice the differences.. Have you seen the styrofoam coffee cup demo? Kroil is supposed to seep through where other don't. Never compared it myself.
I've learned it makes life a little more enjoyable if you start by taking Emory cloth and oil to the shafts. Sand them as close to the bearing as possible and shinny. Slather some light oil on them and I promise, you will thank me.
Wondering if you might be able to help me: I am restoring a similar repulsion-induction motor right now and have an issue. It is single phase, 1 1/2 hp. When I first hooked it up to a bandsaw, it ran the saw fine, but was arcing a lot. So I figured it needed new brushes, and indeed I did find one of the brushes which seemed pretty wore out. So I replaced the brushes. When I cranked up the motor, without any load, it sounded and ran great. arcing went away, etc. But when I put it under load, it struggles and doesnt get up to speed. Still no arcing, everything seems to run right. Commutator looks clean. So my question to you is, do the new brushes need a break-in period before putting the motor under load? or what else could be happening here? Thanks for the vid, btw!
Long story short while cutting back crumbling wires I went too far back. There is a small amount of copper exposed for the yellow lead of this motor. Is there any way to insulate it still? Is spray insulating varnish enough? Did I screw the pooch? Any help is appreciated! Idk if a local motor shop would even work on this old of a motor.
@@davida1hiwaaynet Cool, that is what I will do. I bought the spray sprayon insulating varnish. Is there a brush-able varnish that I should use instead? Thanks to the moon and back!
@@davida1hiwaaynet Dude Its running! You are awesome! I am so grateful. I get to tell my dad na-na-nu-boo-boo! I'm gonna have to fix a few things on the saw still but I should be cutting plywood by this weekend!
I am cleaning and restoring a 1945 bullet motor at the moment and I snapped my spring.You mention in the video you knew where to find a suitable replacement. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
He mentioned that he could salvage one from an oil seal. He was not specific on what type of oil seal but I'm pretty sure the type is called a Garlock Seal. They make oil seals of all types of diameters. Do a search online.
Brake cleaner is safe to clean electric motors with? We were always taught that it would damage the motor. Looks like it worked well for this application though! In the process of keeping a delta saw out of the scrap pile that has this motor. I'm sure I will be back for more info in the future!
Thanks for the comment! There are many different brake cleaners out there. I can only vouch for this one brand being safe for any use. It is a very mild solvent and just gets off oil and dust but won't affect the varnish. Glad you're saving the Delta band saw!
@@davida1hiwaaynet It is a table saw. It has a place for a jointer next to it. What varnish do you use? I had to gently peel back some wires because they had cracked when I tried to position them for splicing new wire onto. Someone has already messed with it before me unfortunately. The switch is even missing. Gonna try to order a paddle safety switch for future 110v use. Thanks so much for the video!
Of course the well known product is WD-40, and as such that's what I always used, but then they took away the nice throttle-able trigger, forcing you to waste a lot when you only need a little, and then they started putting sand in the cans so they'd just clog up and completely stop working, even with a lot of the product remaining. That's when I discovered P'Blaster, and I'll never look back.
I am surprised that while you had everything disassembled you didn't clean the case and remove all the paint rust and repaint it. And equally so, the motor shaft could have been cleaned up and made to look new again. Not sure what your goals are/were. but I think you missed a good opportunity to really make the motor look and run like new again. Thumbs Up either way.
Thanks so much Gary. The problem is, I just had too many things going on at once to go that far into it. That motor was attached to a stand which I needed for another project and it was a bonus that I had no immediate application for. I did the minimum to get it working and to preserve it. When it gets put to use, I'll get it looking like new. When that day comes, it'll have more videos!
Hello, Another good save. I have a question why don't you clean the rotor and stator, from the tarnish (rust) that is on them. just wondering. still on my learning curve. Peace
That's a good question! I could have done that, but was just trying to get the motor functional. Rust has no magnetic properties which interfere with the operation of the motor - so I just left it. The issue will be if there is a buildup of rust which fills in the air gap and causes rotor drag. But any time you work on the stator, or rotor if it has windings; you risk damage to the winding. The rust doesn't affect the motor by its mere presence, and there is risk in using tools to clean it.
I put the video in a screeching stop at 14:13 when you put that gear puller on the outside of that end cover. Yikes! That is just asking to bust that cast stuff. First step, emery cloth that shaft nice and shiny first, then soak with PB, then maybe try the puller as close to the center as possible or try some heat carefully depending what's there. Have to be careful with heat and cast iron too. Ditto on that pulley. Risked distorting or breaking a good pulley. On that also like wear leather gloves and cup under pulley holding motor vertically in air and tap on shaft and catch it in something soft (or have a helper) Preferably hit the shaft with a soft hammer, or brass punch/or piece of hardwood with hammer. You could end up needing a helper that way but if that came off that easy it probably would have dropped out doing this way.
By shims you mean the thrust washers for the rotor shaft? I have ordered them from Grainger before, and also found them at local hardware shops as well.
@@davida1hiwaaynet Yes thrust washers.. I found some at Mcmaster Car although expensive they are perfect and they have a large selection of thicknesses available. And for the GE model SA motor brushes i found Eurton elec motors has 5/16 dia round brushes with the same spring length and shunt. The SA brushes are a tad smaller in diameter .320 but nothing a sharp 5/16 drill bit won't fix. Where do you find motor brushes? Thanks for the cool videos and information.
It’s coincidental that you touched on PB Blaster, I was going to ask you about it in the comments. I can’t get past the smell, sort of a moth ball essence. It does work well though.
I have a hunch that formulate it with a very unique smell, so that it will seem "different" from all the other "just plain oily smelling" penetrating oils. Goes back to the old-school way of thinking "If it stinks, it works!"
How did you go about the test that it was safe to use that specific brake parts cleaner compared to other brands? I use to buy Napa brake parts cleaner for general degreaser etc but they want soo much for it every time so I started buying mine at Walmart of the CRC non chlorinated brake kleen brand. Plus I just saw on the Msds sheet that CRC makes the carquest brand brake cleaner.
Possibly could have helped. I was afraid of getting a hook pick behind it and breaking the brass spring clip by over-stretching it. Probably would not have been a problem. :)
East coast of Arkansas. I hear that old coal train. The only think I don't care for in PB and WD40 is the smell. It goes away but I was rebuilding a washing machine and worried it would get into the clothes. PB works great, however.
That would not be a good fragrance for a new line of laundry products..... "What is that alluring aroma? Oh it's the new Tide... PB Blaster with a hint of Diesel - Now with gear oil essences!"
I dunno man, unless the tie rod bolt was hard to access, I feel like it would get put back. (Though I'll certainly agree that people do some stupid shit.) It might just as well have shook loose and fell on the cluttered shop floor where it sat in pile of nuts and bolts and metal shavings and dust bunnies for a couple of years until one spring cleaning the new kid swept the floor and threw it out because he didn't know what it was. I may have over thought this just a little. :3
The missing tie rod. The truth is that there is only 1 missing tie rod in the entire world. Now everyone is stealing another and using it to fix another motor. In effect, they constantly passing around the empty tie rod "hole." Everyone except my crazy, old granddaddy. That old fart went to his grave hoarding this one extra tie rod. He died looking for a motor with a missing tie rod. My dad tried to get that rod from him so many times that he hid it and hid it good. My family has been lookin' for that rod every since. It's become the shame of our existence. 😢
I just love seeing these old motors brought back to life. Thank you!
Thanks Rob! I was looking at your Century 1/4 HP motor videos as well. I have a Frigidaire refrigerator which is powered by a motor which may be identical to yours. You may have heard it start up in the background of some of my videos.
Thanks David, got some good tips from watching. I know nearly nothing about motors but have one of these that needs some TLC. You've given me confidence knowing what's inside.
I just wanted to thank you again. I successfully got mine torn down, installed new bearings, fixed the stuck Shorting Necklace pieces after running it through my sonic cleaner, had to fix the spring and resprayed the windings with new varnish.
I got it back together and it works flawlessly.
You were very instrumental in my success.
Glad I could help!
Best youtube repair video I've seen.
Your demeanor is perfect. You have a gift. Most videos feature a know-it all SOB. Keep up the good work 👍
Thank you Ron. I really appreciate the kind words!
Excellent video!
I have virtually the same motor from a Van Norman Senior brake drum lathe. Made in 1940! It's a Peerless 1HP 15 amp. Has noisy bearings and a frozen ( and funky) shorting gizmo the same as yours and yes that impossible- to- remove snap ring! The bearing is an skf c20 and impossible to find anything on the internet . Will have to replace it with a 6204 that is also much thinner than the original one.
Again, great vid and your professional manner is unusually rare (on TH-cam) and much appreciated. 👍😀
Very neat about the Van Norman brake lathe. I have worked on one of their flywheel surfacer machines before, but haven't seen the brake lathe.
You're probably best off with the 6204 bearing, using some spacers to position them on the shaft as necessary.
Thanks for the positive comment, as well!
Thanks for the vid. I just got an old Delta Table saw that has a 1 HP version of this motor. It was rescued from an old machine shop/auto parts store that was scheduled to be demolished. I plan on doing a complete restoration of the motor and the saw. The motor looks about as rough as yours did but it rotated freely. I took a chance and plugged it in and turned it on. Started and ran fine which is a bonus. I plan on taking it apart and cleaning it up and replacing anything that needs to be. Your vid helped me understand how this motor works and how it comes apart. Very valuable information for me.
Hi Kirk. Great that you got that saw, and also happy my video will help you to repair it more easily. Thanks for the comment!
HI Dave, you have the best and closest to three phase motor that runs on single phase. Nice work fella too.
Another one saved! Sounds great David, thanks for sharing!
Great video, solid content! Only advice I have is you do not want to use brake cleaner on the windings that’s a big no no. Better off pressure washing and then baking it in an oven, I like your DC power supply technique too.
My old drill press from the 1940's has a Delta repulsion induction motor on it. I put new bearings in it and it purrs when running. Also the rating of HP must have been different because it is way stronger than it's 1/3hp rating. I love these antique electric motors and machines. They were built with pride and beautiful.
Thanks! They did have a lot more reserve power than modern motors.
GM steering wheel lock plates have the same PITA round retaining rings holding them in place. I gouged a finger real bad once removing one.
Hooray. Another old motor rescued! I need to buy me some PB Blaster, just because.
Get some acetone and automatic trans fluid mix half and half best knock loose you'll ever use.
I have one of these (on my old rockwell jointer), but I want to switch it to a safety on/off switch. However, because it has 4 wires coming out of the motor, I don't necessarily want to change anything. It currently has the linkage type on off switch (which works fine and if all else fails, I'll put it back in and have the safety on off switch maybe be connected to the cord coming in TO the motor instead of from the motor instead).
Is it possible to use a safety on/off paddle switch with the 5002? or would I be better off leaving it as it is and placing it elsewhere?
How do you clean cotton windings like on the old century rsir and ge wound rotor motors? Can you clean them or should you leave them alone? If you can what solvents can you use on them?
Hi Chandler. The cotton windings are resistant to virtually all solvents, so use of mineral spirits, acetone, or lacquer thinner can be done. This may remove coatings over the cotton, allowing you to add new coatings afterward.
Prob from either an antique delta or rockwell. I have a very early 40s rockwell which i was lucky enough to obtain for free.
Has a different type delta repulsion induction motor with pulleys on either side. It drives the table saw and whatever else used to be there. Im thinking a drill press or bandsaw??? All wood stand but original to the date.
Yes you are absolutely correct about the switch hole. Theres a rod that would come up from the bottom to turn the motor on or off as the motor itself was normally located on the bottom shelf along with the belts.
I could get a few pics of my setup if youd like. Its kinda buried at the moment though.
Your technique for taking the snap ring out is what I usually do. But there is a tool that looks like your normal snap ring pliers but has flat ends with small knurling on them to grab the ends of the snap ring. I don’t have them so I do the screw driver method haha.
also steering columns use the same ring to hold the spring loaded steering wheel lock on. There is a tool to push the lock down to reveal the ring So it can be removed easier. In this case it’s that cover underneath the snap ring. hard to tell on the video but on steering columns the ring is particularly recessed in the plate. hence the use of the tool.
Is there a chance the brake cleaner will eat the wire insulation? the brake cleaner I get from Oreilly’s eats paint very well.
Very nice , thank you for sharing
Glad you enjoyed it!
Left direction would make sense if this came off a delta jointer. And the jointer used a linkage from the motor up to the top of the stand for ON / OFF.
what sonic clearner and cleaning fluid did you use?
Thanks for the comment! The cleaner is a no-name Chinese model, which I bought from Wal Mart dot com. The cleaner is Zep Industrial Purple degreaser, used at full strength for non-aluminum parts; and Fabuloso household soap for aluminum which would be attached by the caustic Zep purple.
I like this restoration video!
Thanks!
The mark in the middle is "Hard Neutral". It shouldn't run there, as noted. If it did try to move in one direction or the other, it would indicate that the end bell was no quite aligned correctly, which would then throw off the other two marks.
This is the exact video I need, thanks for posting it.
I just picked up one of these motors for ten dollars and need to fix it. Fortunately for me it was still attached to a full size Delta drill press.
My friend found it at a yard sale. The motor did work until I got it wet when I was cleaning fifty years of dirt and crud off of it. Now it tries to start but pops the GFC.
I just spent two hours getting the aluminum multi speed pulley off of it so now I can get inside the motor.
This video is going to be my reference for taking it apart and finding out whats wrong with it.
Thanks again sir!
BTW, I also subscribed to your channel, I have several other old electric motors that I am needing to go through.
Very cool shorting ring design. I am currently trying to located a repulsion/induction motor for an old machine, doing my homework
Cool. They are out there!
@@davida1hiwaaynet oh yes, found 1. th-cam.com/video/-0sTOA5X0XI/w-d-xo.html
Oh goody, I get to make the first comment! Love old motors/cars/etc.. I could have sworn you introduced me to PB Blaster eons ago.
David, It took a long time to upload so the video appeared some time in the early morning hours. Lucky you LOL! Yeah, I remember using it when we had the go karts. But at that time it was whatever we could scrounge!
Since it's not brush-lifting, would there be any way to tell if the shorting mechanism is working because otherwise it'd still just keep running as a repulsion motor?
Actually, yes. The repulsion operating mode will try to run much faster than synchronous speed, while the induction mode will try to run at or close to synchronous speed. If the shorting device fails to engage at all, the motor will run at an extremely high speed with quite a lot of brush sparking. If the shorting device is intermittent, there will be speed fluctuations and intermittent brush sparking.
Good point, thanks. The transition between repulsion and induction on this one isn't really noticeable, unlike with the brush-lifting motors.
@@CanizaM True! No loud CLACK when it shifts!
Hi. How would you suggest cleaning a very greasy motor? It's an old motor with cloth covered wires. The stator, armature and windings are just caked with grease (it shares a housing with a geared grease filled transmission). I've heard to use mineral spirits or hot water and soap. Then heat an oven to about 100 degrees and let it dry out for several hours. I figure soap and water may be less aggressive on the old windings, but don't necessarily like the idea of using water. I see you use brake cleaner here. Thanks!
Where to find replacement part in USA.
I've always preferred Kroil, but it's harder to find. Been using mostly PB Blaster because it's always in my face!
LOL about the PB Blaster being in your face! I've used Aerokroil as well, but it seems to be better at dissolving gum and dried oil more than penetrating rust. When you have to apply heat to a rusted part, it seems that PB Blaster will not vaporize as quickly as Kroil and therefore remains to keep working.
@@davida1hiwaaynet Will have to try and notice the differences.. Have you seen the styrofoam coffee cup demo? Kroil is supposed to seep through where other don't. Never compared it myself.
I've learned it makes life a little more enjoyable if you start by taking Emory cloth and oil to the shafts. Sand them as close to the bearing as possible and shinny. Slather some light oil on them and I promise, you will thank me.
Wondering if you might be able to help me:
I am restoring a similar repulsion-induction motor right now and have an issue. It is single phase, 1 1/2 hp. When I first hooked it up to a bandsaw, it ran the saw fine, but was arcing a lot. So I figured it needed new brushes, and indeed I did find one of the brushes which seemed pretty wore out. So I replaced the brushes. When I cranked up the motor, without any load, it sounded and ran great. arcing went away, etc. But when I put it under load, it struggles and doesnt get up to speed. Still no arcing, everything seems to run right. Commutator looks clean. So my question to you is, do the new brushes need a break-in period before putting the motor under load? or what else could be happening here? Thanks for the vid, btw!
Long story short while cutting back crumbling wires I went too far back. There is a small amount of copper exposed for the yellow lead of this motor. Is there any way to insulate it still? Is spray insulating varnish enough? Did I screw the pooch?
Any help is appreciated! Idk if a local motor shop would even work on this old of a motor.
I would just solder a new wire to it, and seal the bare spot with varnish. Should be fine.
@@davida1hiwaaynet Cool, that is what I will do. I bought the spray sprayon insulating varnish. Is there a brush-able varnish that I should use instead? Thanks to the moon and back!
@@davida1hiwaaynet Dude Its running! You are awesome! I am so grateful. I get to tell my dad na-na-nu-boo-boo! I'm gonna have to fix a few things on the saw still but I should be cutting plywood by this weekend!
I am cleaning and restoring a 1945 bullet motor at the moment and I snapped my spring.You mention in the video you knew where to find a suitable replacement. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
He mentioned that he could salvage one from an oil seal. He was not specific on what type of oil seal but I'm pretty sure the type is called a Garlock Seal. They make oil seals of all types of diameters. Do a search online.
Brake cleaner is safe to clean electric motors with? We were always taught that it would damage the motor. Looks like it worked well for this application though! In the process of keeping a delta saw out of the scrap pile that has this motor. I'm sure I will be back for more info in the future!
Thanks for the comment! There are many different brake cleaners out there. I can only vouch for this one brand being safe for any use. It is a very mild solvent and just gets off oil and dust but won't affect the varnish.
Glad you're saving the Delta band saw!
@@davida1hiwaaynet It is a table saw. It has a place for a jointer next to it.
What varnish do you use? I had to gently peel back some wires because they had cracked when I tried to position them for splicing new wire onto. Someone has already messed with it before me unfortunately. The switch is even missing. Gonna try to order a paddle safety switch for future 110v use.
Thanks so much for the video!
Did you clean the commutator and/or undercut the mica?
I can't remember exactly. I probably lightly polished the commutator and did not undercut it on this motor.
Of course the well known product is WD-40, and as such that's what I always used, but then they took away the nice throttle-able trigger, forcing you to waste a lot when you only need a little, and then they started putting sand in the cans so they'd just clog up and completely stop working, even with a lot of the product remaining. That's when I discovered P'Blaster, and I'll never look back.
I am surprised that while you had everything disassembled you didn't clean the case and remove all the paint rust and repaint it. And equally so, the motor shaft could have been cleaned up and made to look new again. Not sure what your goals are/were. but I think you missed a good opportunity to really make the motor look and run like new again. Thumbs Up either way.
Thanks so much Gary. The problem is, I just had too many things going on at once to go that far into it. That motor was attached to a stand which I needed for another project and it was a bonus that I had no immediate application for. I did the minimum to get it working and to preserve it. When it gets put to use, I'll get it looking like new. When that day comes, it'll have more videos!
Hello, Another good save. I have a question why don't you clean the rotor and stator, from the tarnish (rust) that is on them. just wondering. still on my learning curve. Peace
That's a good question! I could have done that, but was just trying to get the motor functional. Rust has no magnetic properties which interfere with the operation of the motor - so I just left it. The issue will be if there is a buildup of rust which fills in the air gap and causes rotor drag. But any time you work on the stator, or rotor if it has windings; you risk damage to the winding. The rust doesn't affect the motor by its mere presence, and there is risk in using tools to clean it.
Thank You..
I put the video in a screeching stop at 14:13 when you put that gear puller on the outside of that end cover. Yikes! That is just asking to bust that cast stuff. First step, emery cloth that shaft nice and shiny first, then soak with PB, then maybe try the puller as close to the center as possible or try some heat carefully depending what's there. Have to be careful with heat and cast iron too.
Ditto on that pulley. Risked distorting or breaking a good pulley. On that also like wear leather gloves and cup under pulley holding motor vertically in air and tap on shaft and catch it in something soft (or have a helper)
Preferably hit the shaft with a soft hammer, or brass punch/or piece of hardwood with hammer. You could end up needing a helper that way but if that came off that easy it probably would have dropped out doing this way.
Knowing how much force to apply without breaking things comes from experience; which apparently you lack.
David, Where do you purchase electric motor shims 1/2" ID? I'm restoring a couple antique motors. thanks
By shims you mean the thrust washers for the rotor shaft? I have ordered them from Grainger before, and also found them at local hardware shops as well.
@@davida1hiwaaynet Yes thrust washers.. I found some at Mcmaster Car although expensive they are perfect and they have a large selection of thicknesses available. And for the GE model SA motor brushes i found Eurton elec motors has 5/16 dia round brushes with the same spring length and shunt. The SA brushes are a tad smaller in diameter .320 but nothing a sharp 5/16 drill bit won't fix. Where do you find motor brushes? Thanks for the cool videos and information.
That was wonderful!
It’s coincidental that you touched on PB Blaster, I was going to ask you about it in the comments. I can’t get past the smell, sort of a moth ball essence. It does work well though.
I have a hunch that formulate it with a very unique smell, so that it will seem "different" from all the other "just plain oily smelling" penetrating oils.
Goes back to the old-school way of thinking "If it stinks, it works!"
How did you go about the test that it was safe to use that specific brake parts cleaner compared to other brands? I use to buy Napa brake parts cleaner for general degreaser etc but they want soo much for it every time so I started buying mine at Walmart of the CRC non chlorinated brake kleen brand. Plus I just saw on the Msds sheet that CRC makes the carquest brand brake cleaner.
Just got a scroll saw from the school district with this motor and works flawless, paid $59 any tune up suggestions anyone?
What is that solvent
An original Delta motor with a working linkage-type switch is pretty sought-after by old machine collectors/restorers!
No expert on it, but looks like a hock or loop would help in getting the spring off.
Possibly could have helped. I was afraid of getting a hook pick behind it and breaking the brass spring clip by over-stretching it. Probably would not have been a problem. :)
@@davida1hiwaaynet You could also get a fishing line behind it, and then you would probably be able to control it as much as you like.
East coast of Arkansas. I hear that old coal train. The only think I don't care for in PB and WD40 is the smell. It goes away but I was rebuilding a washing machine and worried it would get into the clothes. PB works great, however.
That would not be a good fragrance for a new line of laundry products..... "What is that alluring aroma? Oh it's the new Tide... PB Blaster with a hint of Diesel - Now with gear oil essences!"
I googled “maiden turkey bearing” but could find anything. Link please🤣
turkey.tradekey.com/bearing.htm
I dunno man, unless the tie rod bolt was hard to access, I feel like it would get put back. (Though I'll certainly agree that people do some stupid shit.) It might just as well have shook loose and fell on the cluttered shop floor where it sat in pile of nuts and bolts and metal shavings and dust bunnies for a couple of years until one spring cleaning the new kid swept the floor and threw it out because he didn't know what it was.
I may have over thought this just a little. :3
Overthinking is not always a bad thing. :)
Kroil is very good too
Love RI motors.
Thanks! I do too. They have a great sound.
The internals are in pretty good shape for sitting in the weather.
Thinking drill press delta.
45:07 The air compressor does not sound good!
The missing tie rod.
The truth is that there is only 1 missing tie rod in the entire world. Now everyone is stealing another and using it to fix another motor. In effect, they constantly passing around the empty tie rod "hole."
Everyone except my crazy, old granddaddy. That old fart went to his grave hoarding this one extra tie rod. He died looking for a motor with a missing tie rod.
My dad tried to get that rod from him so many times that he hid it and hid it good.
My family has been lookin' for that rod every since.
It's become the shame of our existence. 😢
LOL!
Im not an expert on that motor, but i do watch youtube.. soo im pretty much a pro.. lol
Never stop learning; my friend.... never stop learning!
45:06 that thing sounds demonic
LOL that is my tired, old 1965 LeRoi Dresser / Westinghouse air compressor in needs of bearings.