Holy cow, I was looking at new turbos, and such because I recently got under the truck to replace the o2 sensor and saw it was just covered in oil on the pass side, all over the turbo.... I think you just saved me a lot of money!! Thank you!
As it turns out the 2012 does not have this... SO... I need to investigate further, but it seems either valve cover gasket, or turbo lines... But still awesome info!
@@iambucketdotcom_official The seals on the turbo oil supply line can be adversely affected by a leaky vacuum pump, but since you say you do not have a pump, you may have a leaky R-H cam cover gskt. I truly cannot see you not having a pump since you undoubtedly have a black vacuum line from the pump to the power brake booster, behind the brake master cylinder. Look closely.
@@SpicyRok7482 hi Louis! Mines a 2012 my pump is behind the drivers headlight. I did end up replacing the turbos. But I also have the warped valve cover issue that I need to resolve. I'm getting more oil leaking from the HPFP gasket on the drivers side now than anything. I have a complete set to fix it. But, I'm in no hurry. The leak is minimal now. Thank you!
great video, took me longer than expected due to the small clearance from the top. Had to buy slim socket to accommodate a 1/4 inch socket and a slim racthet . Getting back in was difficult so practice with the old one to find the sweet spot to get the new one on.
Just did this today. I forgot the orientation of the pump lobe.I took the cover off the old pump to line the lobe up and matched the new one to it. Also that small o ring on the shaft will cause the pump not to sit flush even though the lobes are lined up, so just tighten the bolts down until it is flush. I found this out by removing the o ring and it snapped right into place. Great video ,going in through the wheel well is the only way to go.
Very helpful video. I was able to change the vacuum pump on my 2013 F150 ecoboost by following your suggestion of removing the front wheel and wheel liner. Overall, this is a very tedious job, but if you have time (at least a day) to work on this, then its worth doing the job rather than paying upwards of $1000 that was quoted to me by an auto repair shop. I am sure the Dealer would have charged more.
I just replaced vacuum pump on my 2011 f150 ecoboost. Put a new one on because it kept clicking on and off constantly. So I put a brand new one on but it still clicks on and off and quite noisy when doing so. Any ideas on help. Thanks
The 2011 f150 ecoboost has the electric vacuum pump vs the 2013 which is mechanical and cam driven. Maybe the vacuum lines have a clog or damaged, I would check the vacuum lines.
What a PIA. I lost my brain new ratchet wrench down the loose insulation over the transmission. I broke the white clip that holds the vacume hose One bolt head is stripped. Taking the fender piece out wasn't easy and found a ton of mud and debris trapped. Buy a plastic button kit because you break all the black push clips getting them out. 3.5 hours 1 bolt out taking a break. He made it look easy...
Why REPLACE the pump for an external oil leak? I, too, have a 2013...w/an oil leak that looks to be the same as your's...( 70K mi. ). It is my understanding the 2014 models have significantly more clearance between the cab firewall & the engine's rear. I plan to disassemble the pump & replace ALL of its internal o-rings ( a kit is available from an aftermarket seller, RKX, for around $30. ). Thnx for you good video.
Yes, it's cheaper and you can buy the gasket (think it is like $8) by itself. I replaced my pump because my truck had 127,000 miles already and like a water pump it's hard to determine when the pump will actually fail. For all the effort of replacing the gasket i felt i might as well just replace the pump too. In the grand scheme of things you get a new pump and new gasket which was relatively cheap insurance at $150 bucks. Hope this helps!
I just replaced the gasket this weekend. I totally agree with removing the wheel and going in that way. I was able to loosen and tighten the upper 8mm bolt from the top though. It is a frustrating job. Very little room.
Yhe gasket itself turns hard and flips itself inward due to vacuum, you probably don't need rtv the whole bottom!! At least you accessed it from the wheel well which is 100 times easier than above
was this causing a faint burning oil smell coming through the heat vents and did the oil smell go away? . Im sure this is whats going on with my 2013 Platinum. I reached around and touched all the bolts and my fingers had oil on them.
smell was strong on cold start, and was faint after warming up the engine. Another common place i found to be leaking oil is the passenger valve cover as well.
My story is the opposite. Mine is a Platinum model so I think FORD stuck an extra layer of sound damping on the firewall. NO CLEARANCE! The top 1 of the 3 bolts must be installed w/the pump. Suks! Also, the 3 screws were tight as hell...11yo.
so when you put the black permatex on you only put it on the entire outside diamater but not in the rubber gasket itself? thanks for the video I am about to do this myself!
@hundred eyes - when you remove the old pump you'll see the remnants of old sealant on left and right side of pump. use those as your reference points. I added 1/4 inch bead of sealant on the entire bottom half of the pump on the rubber gasket.
Many suggest just the areas on the side but I put it on the lower half of the vacuum pump. This does also cover the side areas that some people just put sone on
Had an oil change today. The service manager at the Ford dealership told me that the vacuum pump is starting to leak. Truck only has 78000 miles. Gave me an estimate of $963... I will be trading my truck in soon.
The vacuum pump is necessary because under boost you have pressure not vacuum. I wonder why instead of this if it would be better to have an electric booster.
I think the 2011-2012's design had a electric vacuum pump installed behind the headlights, and Ford changed the design in 2013 with the cam driven version. See Ford 15N05, which added an extended 10 year warranty to the electric pump.
thanks for asking. i believe the valve cover is a few inches above the vacuum pump. so i would check for oil leaks on the valve cover near the firewall. hope this helps!
Theres a seal in the coil tube the coil slides into that leaks on manifold. Will also fill tube with oil soaking spark plug and end of coil pak eventually causing misfire
@@lakeslinksjamesdorn1879 Certainly true, but fairly rare. Never the less, should be considered. I once saw a young tech leave those cam cover ign. coil seals off on a 6.0L V-12 Mercrdes-Benz. BOY! OH BOY! What a MISTAKE!!! He had to remove the big, heavy intake manifold that mounts right down on top of the cam covers. There were tears in his eyes.
Yes. Also, make sure the tube is not lodged in the cam inside the engine block. When I spoke to the local Ford dealer, I asked a similar question if the tube should even come out from the pump. His response was if the tube comes out, you have to replace the pump. The new pump includes the brass tube, and was not available as a separate part. Hope this helps.
@@josephdye3997 Remove the piece. You can shine a flashlight with a mirror to help you see better, that's how I was able to get a pic on my video. Also- My local Ford parts dealer told me you would have to replace the pump that would come with the brass tube is separated from the pump.
@Jammit, Correct, the oil would slowly drip (1 drop every 10 mins or so) and hit the passenger exhaust. You could see the smoke at startup from accumulated oil from a cold start, and you could smell the oil burning inside the passenger as well.
It was a pain, my back was sore for a few days, lol... I also hear if you ever have to replace the rear main seal that would be a headache. However, I have not had to do that yet, and from what I've read is not that common an issue.
![[Sub Thai] APT. - ROSÉ & Bruno Mars](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bYjhzP8x_uc/mqdefault.jpg)
Holy cow, I was looking at new turbos, and such because I recently got under the truck to replace the o2 sensor and saw it was just covered in oil on the pass side, all over the turbo.... I think you just saved me a lot of money!! Thank you!
As it turns out the 2012 does not have this... SO... I need to investigate further, but it seems either valve cover gasket, or turbo lines... But still awesome info!
Very helpful I went to the dealership they wanted charge me $1989 for repair turbo oil leak driver side
@@iambucketdotcom_official Yeah, it's common also for the valve cover gasket to leak as well. I recently replaced the passenger side gasket.
@@iambucketdotcom_official The seals on the turbo oil supply line can be adversely affected by a leaky vacuum pump, but since you say you do not have a pump, you may have a leaky R-H cam cover gskt.
I truly cannot see you not having a pump since you undoubtedly have a black vacuum line from the pump to the power brake booster, behind the brake master cylinder.
Look closely.
@@SpicyRok7482 hi Louis! Mines a 2012 my pump is behind the drivers headlight. I did end up replacing the turbos. But I also have the warped valve cover issue that I need to resolve. I'm getting more oil leaking from the HPFP gasket on the drivers side now than anything. I have a complete set to fix it. But, I'm in no hurry. The leak is minimal now. Thank you!
great video, took me longer than expected due to the small clearance from the top. Had to buy slim socket to accommodate a 1/4 inch socket and a slim racthet . Getting back in was difficult so practice with the old one to find the sweet spot to get the new one on.
Just did this today. I forgot the orientation of the pump lobe.I took the cover off the old pump to line the lobe up and matched the new one to it.
Also that small o ring on the shaft will cause the pump not to sit flush even though the lobes are lined up, so just tighten the bolts down until it is flush. I found this out by removing the o ring and it snapped right into place.
Great video ,going in through the wheel well is the only way to go.
Very helpful video. I was able to change the vacuum pump on my 2013 F150 ecoboost by following your suggestion of removing the front wheel and wheel liner. Overall, this is a very tedious job, but if you have time (at least a day) to work on this, then its worth doing the job rather than paying upwards of $1000 that was quoted to me by an auto repair shop. I am sure the Dealer would have charged more.
I have not seen any other reseal estimates for more than $5C...$3C seems to be the norm.
R s was easy to due when valve cover gasket was replace also ( due to oil leakes)
I just replaced vacuum pump on my 2011 f150 ecoboost. Put a new one on because it kept clicking on and off constantly. So I put a brand new one on but it still clicks on and off and quite noisy when doing so. Any ideas on help. Thanks
The 2011 f150 ecoboost has the electric vacuum pump vs the 2013 which is mechanical and cam driven. Maybe the vacuum lines have a clog or damaged, I would check the vacuum lines.
What a PIA. I lost my brain new ratchet wrench down the loose insulation over the transmission.
I broke the white clip that holds the vacume hose
One bolt head is stripped.
Taking the fender piece out wasn't easy and found a ton of mud and debris trapped. Buy a plastic button kit because you break all the black push clips getting them out. 3.5 hours 1 bolt out taking a break. He made it look easy...
Why REPLACE the pump for an external oil leak?
I, too, have a 2013...w/an oil leak that looks to be the same as your's...( 70K mi. ). It is my understanding the 2014 models have significantly more clearance between the cab firewall & the engine's rear.
I plan to disassemble the pump & replace ALL of its internal o-rings ( a kit is available from an aftermarket seller, RKX, for around $30. ).
Thnx for you good video.
Based on how hard it was for me to take off, for an extra 70 dollars I replaced the whole vacuum pump
Price of a pump here is $190.
Thank you for the viedeo. Is possible just reoplace the gasket? The oil ring and not the all pump? Thank you
Yes, it's cheaper and you can buy the gasket (think it is like $8) by itself. I replaced my pump because my truck had 127,000 miles already and like a water pump it's hard to determine when the pump will actually fail. For all the effort of replacing the gasket i felt i might as well just replace the pump too. In the grand scheme of things you get a new pump and new gasket which was relatively cheap insurance at $150 bucks. Hope this helps!
I just replaced the gasket this weekend. I totally agree with removing the wheel and going in that way. I was able to loosen and tighten the upper 8mm bolt from the top though. It is a frustrating job. Very little room.
Do anyone have a problem where the top of pump doesn’t get tight enough?
I am leaking from the top.
Yhe gasket itself turns hard and flips itself inward due to vacuum, you probably don't need rtv the whole bottom!! At least you accessed it from the wheel well which is 100 times easier than above
How that happens pump supposed to be lifetime?
was this causing a faint burning oil smell coming through the heat vents and did the oil smell go away?
. Im sure this is whats going on with my 2013 Platinum. I reached around and touched all the bolts and my fingers had oil on them.
smell was strong on cold start, and was faint after warming up the engine. Another common place i found to be leaking oil is the passenger valve cover as well.
Almost CERTAINLY.
Doing it from the top is much easier. Took me one half hour. Use old pump to set new cam load accordingly to fit end of camshaft
My experience exactly.
My story is the opposite.
Mine is a Platinum model so I think FORD stuck an extra layer of sound damping on the firewall. NO CLEARANCE!
The top 1 of the 3 bolts must be installed w/the pump. Suks!
Also, the 3 screws were tight as hell...11yo.
so when you put the black permatex on you only put it on the entire outside diamater but not in the rubber gasket itself? thanks for the video I am about to do this myself!
@hundred eyes - when you remove the old pump you'll see the remnants of old sealant on left and right side of pump. use those as your reference points. I added 1/4 inch bead of sealant on the entire bottom half of the pump on the rubber gasket.
What was the Ford part number?
This may have been covered, but does the sealant go all the way around the gasket? or just around the area where its known to leak? thanks.
Did you find out? I’m trying to tackle this job this weekend any tips will help ?
Many suggest just the areas on the side but I put it on the lower half of the vacuum pump. This does also cover the side areas that some people just put sone on
Nice
Had an oil change today. The service manager at the Ford dealership told me that the vacuum pump is starting to leak. Truck only has 78000 miles. Gave me an estimate of $963... I will be trading my truck in soon.
The vacuum pump is necessary because under boost you have pressure not vacuum. I wonder why instead of this if it would be better to have an electric booster.
I think the 2011-2012's design had a electric vacuum pump installed behind the headlights, and Ford changed the design in 2013 with the cam driven version. See Ford 15N05, which added an extended 10 year warranty to the electric pump.
So it will be better to stay under boost ?
How can you determine if it is the vacuum pump leaking or the valve cover?
thanks for asking. i believe the valve cover is a few inches above the vacuum pump. so i would check for oil leaks on the valve cover near the firewall. hope this helps!
Theres a seal in the coil tube the coil slides into that leaks on manifold. Will also fill tube with oil soaking spark plug and end of coil pak eventually causing misfire
@@lakeslinksjamesdorn1879 Certainly true, but fairly rare. Never the less, should be considered.
I once saw a young tech leave those cam cover ign. coil seals off on a 6.0L V-12 Mercrdes-Benz.
BOY! OH BOY! What a MISTAKE!!!
He had to remove the big, heavy intake manifold that mounts right down on top of the cam covers.
There were tears in his eyes.
I lost the brass part of the vacuum pump trying to put the new one in do I have to go and buy another new pump ?
Yes. Also, make sure the tube is not lodged in the cam inside the engine block. When I spoke to the local Ford dealer, I asked a similar question if the tube should even come out from the pump. His response was if the tube comes out, you have to replace the pump. The new pump includes the brass tube, and was not available as a separate part. Hope this helps.
@@boondocky8544 if it’s lodged then what? I can’t tell with a mirror I’m gonna try and take look again Friday
@@josephdye3997 Remove the piece. You can shine a flashlight with a mirror to help you see better, that's how I was able to get a pic on my video. Also- My local Ford parts dealer told me you would have to replace the pump that would come with the brass tube is separated from the pump.
Aside from smoke during a cold start, this will also cause a hard brake pedal, correct?
I have not experienced those symptoms. I believe that may be with the 2011-2012 on cold start.
Was it leaking on your right hand exhaust? Smoking?
@Jammit, Correct, the oil would slowly drip (1 drop every 10 mins or so) and hit the passenger exhaust. You could see the smoke at startup from accumulated oil from a cold start, and you could smell the oil burning inside the passenger as well.
Call it 10Nm torque spec.
7.2lb.ft.
Title this “the after party”
That was the biggest pain in the ass part I have ever replaced. Cheers Ford 👎🏼
It was a pain, my back was sore for a few days, lol... I also hear if you ever have to replace the rear main seal that would be a headache. However, I have not had to do that yet, and from what I've read is not that common an issue.
@@boondocky8544 Wait 'til you do the timing chain, guide rails, tensioning rail, chain-tensioner & camshaft advance mechanisms.
WHOOPEE!!!
But he does not show how cuz its difficult lol
Terrible camera motion, no orientation, long winded stammering 😂
Nice try though
Where’s your video showing it better?
@@Ripcord10don't need one there are videos that actually show the part they are talking about