Hello from Bulgaria!I have a lot mora knives and recently been tested the two steels.Both are great but I have notist that the stainless always after use for carving well seasond wood is having a micro chips.This is normal I gues for stainless.The carbon after same use(same model knive-511)did not chip at all.Ti will of corse get dull but no chips.Just litle bit rolling.Much easier to restor with only a pocket stone.I rely dont like chips!It takes more grinding to get the same smooth cut thrue wood.Mantaining the same way both knives gives the stainless steel knive thooty edge after not.much time.Good for food prep but not for carving-slising wood.Thats why for me,for whitling,carving,bushcraft always I chose carbon steel mora.Thank you!
I have been to the morakniv factory. Their carbon steel is c100 which is easier to heat treat and keeps a better edge than 12c27. It's also very hard to break because of the flexibility. In the end though I prefer the 12c27 Mora because I don't have to take care of it as much. It doesn't rust and doesn't suffer from micro oxidation dulling.
Dutch Bushcraft Knives ☝️☝️☝️ You guys are awesome. The 12c27 seems good. However, I notice minor edge chipping on the factory edge from whittling hardwood. I know you guys probably use a scandi-convex grind, which might be a good idea.
@@whengrapespop5728 You should sharpen, any new knife before you use it. We should judge a factory knife, only after at least 3-4 times, that we sharpened it. The reason is, that all the factories, use really fast belts, to put the last edge and most of the times, the steel on the edge, is burned. That's why, we have to remove that fatigued steel first, before the knife is used hard. Also keep in mind, that scandi edges, are very fine on their very edges. That also makes them more brittle. Finally, any scandi edge, should be convexed a bit, not only for better performance in strength, but for better cutting performance too!!! Hope that helped.
@@DutchBushcraftKnives Hiya, Long time subscriber and never tried to do that, I will now. I have the last 4 years of the mora 511 basic in different colors, in both carbon an stainless.one of the 7/9 euro knives should be ok to try
Mora has great steel for either. The average user is probably better off with stainless. The stainless they use has an amazingly fine grain structure and takes a real good edge. Its edge is almost as sharp as carbon but it doesnt rust. Either way you cant go wrong.
Yes 12c27 is a nice steel indeed. Though tbf, I don't understand people praising 12c27 but hating on 440A or 420HC which both out perform 12c27 in the cutlery association's testings in pretty much every aspect besides ease of sharpening. Yet somehow people cringe at those steels.
One version is thinner than the other yet both have the same name. I would think that the thinner Carbon version would be called a little differently. Otherwise everyone assumes that the specifications are the same except the carbon/stainless difference. Morakniv, are you listening?
Well, what I can see is that how many testers there is, comparing stainless to carbon, that many conclusions we get ;) I also made a test of rope cutting some time ago. I compared Garberg SS, TLIM (polish maker) 80CrV2, and Companion HD carbon. Of course the steel in Garberg is upgraded to one used in SS companion but the results were that Garberg and TLIM were nip and tuck, while carbon companion got dull couple of times sooner than the remaining both.
Mora seems to have a good balance to where they don't expect a person to have to choose between the two. They "do" however have their 'Allround' blades that I suppose are meant to be for 'all around' purposes but I find they are more meant to be longer utility knives that can be used in the kitchen more often than the Companions. I keep both a stainless companion and a stainless Allround in the kitchen. I have an Allround Carbon that showed slight chipping when used outdoors on hard wood whereas all of my thicker carbon blades from Mora Heavy Duty to Marttiini to Hultafors all have no problem outdoors. I guess the 2mm carbon blade is more meant for outdoor utility not involving hard usage like batoning (though it could still get it done). The Heavy Duty is a small beast of a blade but it's not the best slicer.
Wow, inconclusive, like life. Steel, I like stainless, a wonder material, discovered by accident, a lot less maintenance than Carbon, its just got to be watched all the time. Stainless allows one to relax and enjoy ones knife collection, without waking up screaming on humid nights and its so shiney.
The mora in carbon should be stronger ie more suited as a wood working tool/blade than a stainless mora due to higher rockwell hardness...I bent a tip on my mora craftline allround knive after I (with some lateral motion I presume) pulled the blade out from the (live) thick hazel bush branch...
Its blade shape is meant for batoning. Its 14C28N is tough enough. Its bevel is easy to resharpen to be convex for feathering. Its handle hurts a little but fairly good. It's a good bushcraft knife.
Hello. Thank you for your videos. I work for a Japanese company. I visit Japan once every couple of years. Would I be able to find a reloading store in Saitama or Tokyo? I love Japanese tools and would like to buy some during my next visit. Where would you recommend that I search for them? Thank you.
If it's a really sharp 90 degrees no difference. The question is which one will hold up to the abuse of the rod on the spine before you need to touch it up.
Wow. Surprised that just those few strops completely restored the paper cutting ability of that SS companion! Amazing!
Hello from Bulgaria!I have a lot mora knives and recently been tested the two steels.Both are great but I have notist that the stainless always after use for carving well seasond wood is having a micro chips.This is normal I gues for stainless.The carbon after same use(same model knive-511)did not chip at all.Ti will of corse get dull but no chips.Just litle bit rolling.Much easier to restor with only a pocket stone.I rely dont like chips!It takes more grinding to get the same smooth cut thrue wood.Mantaining the same way both knives gives the stainless steel knive thooty edge after not.much time.Good for food prep but not for carving-slising wood.Thats why for me,for whitling,carving,bushcraft always I chose carbon steel mora.Thank you!
I have been to the morakniv factory. Their carbon steel is c100 which is easier to heat treat and keeps a better edge than 12c27. It's also very hard to break because of the flexibility. In the end though I prefer the 12c27 Mora because I don't have to take care of it as much. It doesn't rust and doesn't suffer from micro oxidation dulling.
Dutch Bushcraft Knives
☝️☝️☝️ You guys are awesome. The 12c27 seems good. However, I notice minor edge chipping on the factory edge from whittling hardwood. I know you guys probably use a scandi-convex grind, which might be a good idea.
@@whengrapespop5728 yes we make our mora's very slightly convex
@@whengrapespop5728 You should sharpen, any new knife before you use it. We should judge a factory knife, only after at least 3-4 times, that we sharpened it. The reason is, that all the factories, use really fast belts, to put the last edge and most of the times, the steel on the edge, is burned. That's why, we have to remove that fatigued steel first, before the knife is used hard. Also keep in mind, that scandi edges, are very fine on their very edges. That also makes them more brittle. Finally, any scandi edge, should be convexed a bit, not only for better performance in strength, but for better cutting performance too!!! Hope that helped.
@@DutchBushcraftKnives Hiya, Long time subscriber and never tried to do that, I will now. I have the last 4 years of the mora 511 basic in different colors, in both carbon an stainless.one of the 7/9 euro knives should be ok to try
@@killainmaccallan4700 see this ;-)
th-cam.com/video/QnAKCs_S8ZM/w-d-xo.html
Always enjoy your reviews!
Good, to the point, knife review. Now do one for contemporary Swedish painters.
Love your videos ..please do a land cruiser video in English .. Thank you
Buy both. The carbon for summer and stainless for winter.
Love these Tests of yours...well done.
That sharpening part was really satisfying to watch.
Mora has great steel for either. The average user is probably better off with stainless. The stainless they use has an amazingly fine grain structure and takes a real good edge. Its edge is almost as sharp as carbon but it doesnt rust. Either way you cant go wrong.
Yes, the stainless is almost as good as the carbon. mora is impressive, making great stainless for such low price !
Yes 12c27 is a nice steel indeed.
Though tbf, I don't understand people praising 12c27 but hating on 440A or 420HC which both out perform 12c27 in the cutlery association's testings in pretty much every aspect besides ease of sharpening.
Yet somehow people cringe at those steels.
Never get in a batonning contest with a doctor who has access to cast fiberglass and epoxy. ;)
Stainless steel Mora has lasted great for me the last two years. Use it a lot fishing in saltwater. Good video Doc.
One version is thinner than the other yet both have the same name. I would think that the thinner Carbon version would be called a little differently. Otherwise everyone assumes that the specifications are the same except the carbon/stainless difference. Morakniv, are you listening?
Needed this as I was deciding
Well, what I can see is that how many testers there is, comparing stainless to carbon, that many conclusions we get ;)
I also made a test of rope cutting some time ago. I compared Garberg SS, TLIM (polish maker) 80CrV2, and Companion HD carbon.
Of course the steel in Garberg is upgraded to one used in SS companion but the results were that Garberg and TLIM were nip and tuck, while carbon companion got dull couple of times sooner than the remaining both.
Both steels are great!
Mora seems to have a good balance to where they don't expect a person to have to choose between the two. They "do" however have their 'Allround' blades that I suppose are meant to be for 'all around' purposes but I find they are more meant to be longer utility knives that can be used in the kitchen more often than the Companions. I keep both a stainless companion and a stainless Allround in the kitchen. I have an Allround Carbon that showed slight chipping when used outdoors on hard wood whereas all of my thicker carbon blades from Mora Heavy Duty to Marttiini to Hultafors all have no problem outdoors.
I guess the 2mm carbon blade is more meant for outdoor utility not involving hard usage like batoning (though it could still get it done). The Heavy Duty is a small beast of a blade but it's not the best slicer.
Thanks for the video
Could you do some more reviews on whetstones in the future? Maybe some of the cheaper stones that are more affordable for more people?
Wow, inconclusive, like life. Steel, I like stainless, a wonder material, discovered by accident, a lot less maintenance than Carbon, its just got to be watched all the time. Stainless allows one to relax and enjoy ones knife collection, without waking up screaming on humid nights and its so shiney.
Dr Wako, are you attending the Morakniv adventure in Japan this year ?
The mora in carbon should be stronger ie more suited as a wood working tool/blade than a stainless mora due to higher rockwell hardness...I bent a tip on my mora craftline allround knive after I (with some lateral motion I presume) pulled the blade out from the (live) thick hazel bush branch...
Great example of how quickly a little stropping can restore an edge!
th-cam.com/video/Oq6qF5cUMVk/w-d-xo.html
Hi ,
What do you thing about Mora Garberg?
Its blade shape is meant for batoning. Its 14C28N is tough enough. Its bevel is easy to resharpen to be convex for feathering. Its handle hurts a little but fairly good. It's a good bushcraft knife.
Hello. Thank you for your videos. I work for a Japanese company. I visit Japan once every couple of years. Would I be able to find a reloading store in Saitama or Tokyo? I love Japanese tools and would like to buy some during my next visit. Where would you recommend that I search for them? Thank you.
I am sorry, have no idea about it.
but... you know you're gloves got a hole? :D
Does a sharpened spine Carbon blade, throw better sparks with ferro rod or flint - than Stainless Steel?
No, steel type doesn't matter
If it's a really sharp 90 degrees no difference. The question is which one will hold up to the abuse of the rod on the spine before you need to touch it up.
No. It makes no difference
Why are you guys afraid of carbon?12c27 is not even a real stainless steel