When you cut a perfect circle in half you have created an ellipse and it will NOT grip evenly around the shaft. The correct way is to bolt 2 halves together with a shim in the middle. Then drill or bore to final diameter. When installed the halves will clamp perfectly, spaced apart the thickness of the removed shim. Randy you said is was "good enough" for the job so I am not criticizing you since you know the tolerance for the job. This note is for others that may not know the difference and need a tighter grip.
Nice! Me a dummy but I never thought of the square. Used the jaws that way but it was a blind spot. Sometimes I hit a machined round part twice at any particular diameter and split the difference for center line and can measure from there. Is that a decent way to do the same? Thanks Randy!
Sorry, Randy, I have been watching everyone on fast speed for years. Most people don't realize it but the majority of television shows are played at fast speed when they go into syndication/re-runs so they can fit more commercials into the show; so, I therefore blame them. But I am also a man of limited time and there are so many of you who do interesting things that I wish to catch up and see them all before I must go again; so I blame a hectic life for the fast speed. I manage to retain most of what is going on in the videos but please don't test me at the end ;) Thanks for the videos.
Looks nice Randy. That SS was easy to machine. The stuff I have isn't so easy to work with. I was painting the whole time I watched. I'm glad i wasn't a painter because I thow out the odd four letter word even when i don't break a tap.
Your drilling is bad sir. I dont know everything but I've dressed grinding wheels, freehand split point sharpened taper drills, and punched enough 2.5" holes without a pilot hole in 4340 and 316L to have an opinion on the internet. If the lathe motor has the power and you can comfortably crank the tailstock without a cheater pipe longer than the machine's swing you should drill the hole in one shot with no pilot. It saves on drills, saves time or money on resharpening, and wastes less effort and makes no noise. Taper drills need that axial pressure so the cutting edges last and the taper doesn't slip in the quill. I'm some know it all on the internet but trust me when I say its going to feel like witchcraft when you are quietly drilling massive holes in stainless in hardly any time at all without needing a bunch of drills resharpened. I was forced to self-learn how to do this making propeller nuts for ships on a manual lathe in order to keep my job and sanity.
Nothing to say just an obligatory algorithm boost for the channel 👍👍
Thank you, I can use every boost.
Stainless always brings a whole new bag of issues to the job. You made that look easy Randy. 😃👍
Thank you John. Tough stuff and beautiful.
Grapples are super handy!
For sure Brian. Thanks.
When you cut a perfect circle in half you have created an ellipse and it will NOT grip evenly around the shaft. The correct way is to bolt 2 halves together with a shim in the middle. Then drill or bore to final diameter. When installed the halves will clamp perfectly, spaced apart the thickness of the removed shim. Randy you said is was "good enough" for the job so I am not criticizing you since you know the tolerance for the job. This note is for others that may not know the difference and need a tighter grip.
Yes I am fully aware of this. The stop is not intended to grip the shaft, there is 0.100" clearance.
Super nice Randy!
Thank you Greg.
Nice! Me a dummy but I never thought of the square. Used the jaws that way but it was a blind spot. Sometimes I hit a machined round part twice at any particular diameter and split the difference for center line and can measure from there. Is that a decent way to do the same? Thanks Randy!
Nice work Randy!
Sorry, Randy, I have been watching everyone on fast speed for years. Most people don't realize it but the majority of television shows are played at fast speed when they go into syndication/re-runs so they can fit more commercials into the show; so, I therefore blame them. But I am also a man of limited time and there are so many of you who do interesting things that I wish to catch up and see them all before I must go again; so I blame a hectic life for the fast speed. I manage to retain most of what is going on in the videos but please don't test me at the end ;)
Thanks for the videos.
Thank you John for watching (even if is on fast). Everyone needs to slow down, it is good for you.
Nice well thought out project.
Thank you Lee, they are working great.
always an interesting project
A beautiful looking part Randy, not that your parts don't always look nice and professional but that stainless just looks so nice all machined up.
Thank you John. Come out nice.
Very good job randy
Thank youTr.
Good job and Randy Richard right as usual. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thank you Harold, and thank you for the membership.
Looks nice Randy. That SS was easy to machine. The stuff I have isn't so easy to work with. I was painting the whole time I watched. I'm glad i wasn't a painter because I thow out the odd four letter word even when i don't break a tap.
This is 304 fairly easy to machine, still stainless though, and still tough.
Great job Randy!
Thank you Phil for stopping in.
Good one Randy . 👍
Thank you
Nice one Randy. 👍
Thank you Tom.
Can we see it installed?
Yep I will have to get some video on that. Thanks Jere. The last knife I showed on IG, I made it from part of that leaf spring I got from you.
I am not trying to be smart, but why does watching on fast hurt everybody? If I don't watch on speeded up, a lot of others won't get watched at all.
Good afternoon Randy 😊 thanks for sharing and Happy Easter to you and your family 😅
Afternoon Craig. Happy Easter. Thank you for watching.
Kind of hard to makes videos in the dark.
👍👍😎👍👍
Thanks.
Excellent video. Somehow I got unsubbed from your channel. I fixed that. Us TH-cam machinists got to stick together!
Welcome back! Thanks.
Your drilling is bad sir. I dont know everything but I've dressed grinding wheels, freehand split point sharpened taper drills, and punched enough 2.5" holes without a pilot hole in 4340 and 316L to have an opinion on the internet.
If the lathe motor has the power and you can comfortably crank the tailstock without a cheater pipe longer than the machine's swing you should drill the hole in one shot with no pilot. It saves on drills, saves time or money on resharpening, and wastes less effort and makes no noise. Taper drills need that axial pressure so the cutting edges last and the taper doesn't slip in the quill.
I'm some know it all on the internet but trust me when I say its going to feel like witchcraft when you are quietly drilling massive holes in stainless in hardly any time at all without needing a bunch of drills resharpened. I was forced to self-learn how to do this making propeller nuts for ships on a manual lathe in order to keep my job and sanity.
Thank you.
🤣