Note to self: Oil pressure sending units are a small simple looking device. Shiny metal and cylindrical like many other parts. Just a wire or two to connect it. Fifty bucks usually. Main point is: they use a special socket to remove them.
Absolutely! I always try OEM but the wait time can devistate a customer if they are down a truck. Some OEM parts on intergalactic back order 🙄 thanks for watching and keep wrenching 🔧
I had a bad day years ago doing an oil sending unit on a 1994 Grand Am quad four. I cracked the upper camshaft housing while snugging it up. The casting was paper thin on the one side. That car went to the junkyard with a penny JB welded in the threads...!!! Also did an internal water pump on it. What a treat that was. A GM mechanic said he could replace it in 45 minutes if his tools were laid out out & I replied I couldn't do it in 44 minutes if the engine was out sitting on the floor..!!!
OMG !!! I did the exact same thing on a Quad-4 !!! What I wound up doing was tightening up the sending unit a touch more and sprayed the area with rubbing alcohol. After that dried I took JB Weld and packed the Crack. I then backed off on the sending unit until the JB started to push out as the Crack closed up . I left it sit 24 hours and then started it up ... to my amazement, it didn't leak !!! It was my cousins car . She had it for a few more years before getting rid of it . That was a poor design for sure !! Thanks for sharing your story !!
Thanx Kenny for sharing your wisdom & stories. I'm 60 & been wrenching since my teens. How do you feel about all the plastic parts on today's cars ? JUNK...!!! I'm not complaining cause it puts food on the table. I see u purchased a launch scan tool, I have an upper end launch tool & an Autel pro.They work well for the price.
Kenny, my son just had an oil press switch replaced on his KIA Sedona V6. The switch was leaking and it sits down in the valley of the V under the intake and there’s a bulletin on it, which also says the leak is often mistaken for a rear main seal as that’s where the oil drains over and down to, but in my sons case, the oil was also (mostly) actually being pushed thru the wiring leading to the switch (between the insulation and the copper), thru the harness, and over to the passenger side front where a few switches and or solenoids sat on a bracket above the valve cover. It dropped down the front of the engine and onto the serpentine belt as well as the accessory drives. Thankfully it was under warranty.
Hi this is Takamori Takano and I'm a diesel mechanic and also doing Japanese vehicles and I have been watching your channel and what your saying about the mechanic is really 👌 and it helps me alot anyway I'm from republic of Palau.
What was up with the low coolant? It was noisy on start up did you check the oil level? Nice wrenching. I got out of the automotive career yrs ago thank God. I just do side work for family and friends.
Scotty Kilmer is an excellent mechanic like yourself, but your relaxed calm manner is much more appealing to me, you are very thorough, not just getting the vehicle out the door but fixing the inherent issues to stop a mid term repeat of the same fault. Good tips too, I am impressed as a home mechanic that I know some tips already, but I always pick something new too.
Scotty was once a good mechanic but his days are long since gone. He is nothing more than a mountain of misinformation and personal opinions, stuck in a bygone era of the late ‘90s. Shame on you for putting Kenny and Scotty in the same category.
The weird thing about the broken sensor at 12:34 is there is no center hole for pressure to make its way into the pressure sensor. Clearly a manufacturing error. Even if it didn't break, the pressure will never be recorded.
My heart dropped when it snapped . It literally took next to no effort . I agree that there is some manufacturing defect in that part . I bet there is a whole run of those that's made wrong
Dodged a bullet there Kenny ! Thankfully the screw part came out easily , thanks for all you videos they are very helpful even to experienced mechanics
I'm on my second Malibu. What can I say, the prices were right (cheaper than dirt!) I do my own wrenching but they both have needed so much of my attention and blood that they have made me start to despise Chevys in general. Love wrenching on my Heep though...
That was my thought also upon seeing what he was working on GARBAGE! but unbelievable there are garbage deniers that will tell you Malibu is a great car im like pfff gtfooh
the bar prop is of course cheaper to produce than the gas struts, and it's such a difference that the Toyota lead engineer pointed it out on a car that was the subject of an interview he was doing w/ a journo. I was kinda stunned that he bothered mentioning it as a signal that the car was 'nicer' than basic. It IS nice to have but only when it works obviously
Currently I’m dealing with that same issue on my 07 Malibu. Battery has been out of the car for almost a year and the starter was changed almost 3 years prior to car not running. Now I feel I may have been overlooking something assuming that the starter / battery could not be the problem. You have given me something to think about when I do get back to fixing the car. Mine is low miles for the year so I’d rather not get rid of it. Thanx for this especially and also for all your videos! 👍🏼👍🏼
Note to self: To help test a battery, you can put the cables you're using to jump the vehicle at different spots to rule out the possibility of having bad terminals on the battery. For example, you can put your negative lead not on the negative terminal on the battery, but on some grounded parts of the car, like the frame. And you can put the positive battery cable not on the positive terminal of the battery, but further down the line (he used the point where the positive cable went to the fuse box.) Just don't do it at the same time so that you know which battery terminal is defective. It's not really that important but for reasons of curiosity.
Yes, a hood rod would be less expensive than a lift cartridge for the hood, but owners don't seem to like those rods. I consider that type of battery cable terminals to be "emergency-only". Good video.
kenny i fixed one of these on a cavilier, it was blowing 1/2 quart out in 5 mile drive .i fixed it car still running today like a new one and won t burn a oz of oil .on that car you haft to reach straight in from passanger side front wheel with your arm pit over the brake rotor im 5 11 took several times to find the hole because you can t see it after you take oil filter off..
Noticed the copper washer on the sender unit and it made me think. The difference in the kind of washers used. I also have a Honda fit where the oil pan bolt has to be changed every time you do an oil change, why? Thanks for all the high quality videos by the way.
Well done video's Kenny. You would have been a good Auto Shop Teacher .. just sayin' ... Decades ago I can remember Standard as being the go to manufacture for Points and Condenser's etc. along with Blue Point and they were reliable. I guess like everything else nowadays their QC is on the decline ... 🤔
I'm not a fan of the GM 2.4 liter. The pcv on many of them gets all full of water, freezes and then blows the rear main out. I just had one on Monday on an Equinox that had blown the rear main seal. I pulled the breather hose off and it was full of water. Plus those things chug oil and eat timing chains. I don't have these problems with my old 2000 Silverado
I've had egr valve break at the housing while threading the pipe back on wasn't even tighten yet on my old Ford truck, no cross threading was turning smooth too.
Just changed an oil pressure sending unit on an 8.3 Cummings. It was dripping from the sending unit itself. Wanted to use a genuine Cummings part. $95.00...that's outrageous. Installed it and it leaked from the exact same place... I had to double check to make sure I hadn't reinstalled the old one...nope. I guess it is a factory feature to show that the engine still has oil. Aftermarket part didn't have that feature and was a third the price. Go figure
Pressure switch snap off that thing looks pitiful 💩, but! You know what you did wrong ????? Ahhhh , you talked about the way the greenhorn mechanic over wedged that tapered switch that day 🤔 🔧 ,,, rebuilding automatic transmissions 44 years and I have "NOT" SEEN IT ALL , GOOD SHOW MAN. I gave you a 👍 and 🔔&sub
I handed over a bench build A - 500 dodge automatic transmission to a teenager customer later that afternoon he drives it to my shop with a spilt case on the return cooler with tapered fitting ! His dad said ( I told him I heard a POP)
My 2006 BMW M5 has good rubber on suspension drive train and hood struts work? 234, km no codes I fix myself few repairs. Trans can be clunky but HWY drives are golden.
Note to self: Small amounts of smoke can come from the starter if you try jumping the starter and there is an oil leak that's dripping down onto the starter. Unsurprising but notable.
The oil sending unit/ pressure switch beijg bad on a 3800 will cause a no crank no start. It causes this by killing power to the fuel pump. So you'll chase that rather than the problem. So on a 3800 is you have q crank no start where the fuel pump isn't kicking on check the oil sending unit on rear passenger side of the engine.
I've seen bad oil sender switches fail through the top, and the oil pressure force oil up through the electrical connection, through the wire and all the way back to an ECU and fill it completely up inside, causing many strange codes before the ecu quits.
Well , I’m not going to pick on BWD ( broken when delivered ) since it’s a STANDARD part . To be fair , I’m still driving on the same standard ignition coil on my Jeep Cherokee almost 20 years . You got to love them though , they’ll blame the guy behind the wrench for this every time . Stripped threaded connections on steering racks and elsewhere to name a few .
i may have a snowflake car, but when ever i do anything with the battery in my car it forces an unlock, then again you need to disable the alarm and use the key to access the battery so theres that
Most GMs will unlock the drivers door if you leave the keys in the ignition. However Hondas will lock the doors all by them selves even if the key is in the ignition. If possible I like to roll the drivers window down just in case.
Motor oil has a high impedance and typically won’t affect the oil switch connection. The problem with this situation is that the oil got into and on the starter brushes and armature, compromising the connection.
Another fantastic tutorial on common sense diagnostics and troubleshooting techniques through life experience and expertise, that demonstrates a practical approach and general know how without application of thousands of dollars of sophisticated equipment. I truly appreciate your sharing of wisdom and style, where your videos utilize the “see one, do one and teach one” methodology that allows others to not only learn from your decades of experience but also your candor to share mistakes that we all make in life. Thank you, Kenny and keep wrenchin’ 👏🏻👏🏻💯 🔧 🧰
Yea I always try and roll down the window Too many times a International clocked the door by just shutting the door a little too hard. Made in china sensor I bet
I ordered these really cool T-handle locks that bolt on the that hood prop from Amazon. I used one the weekend working on my vehicle. Works really well. Just a suggestion.
If Standard knew they were bad you’d think they’d had a recall so if you called them I bet they appreciated that call. Imagine how many they produce on a run. Definitely makes your heart skip a beat. Great video.
Reminds me of my old 89 Jeep Wrangler w/ 2.5 ltr engine. The thing was bullet proof but had a valve cover oil leak that was unfixeable due to excessive blow by; but it only lost a quart of oil every 3000 miles. Still had plenty of power and good driveability at 350,000 miles when I traded it in, but I got really good at replacing the starter as it went went through 6 or 7 of them because they would get saturated with oil and fail. In retrospective I probably should have tried wrapping it in plastic but I just didn't think about it at the time.
Note to self: Oil pressure sending units are a small simple looking device. Shiny metal and cylindrical like many other parts. Just a wire or two to connect it. Fifty bucks usually. Main point is: they use a special socket to remove them.
I learned throughout the years just because it's new doesn't mean it's good!
There is no work in the shop today so I started my day watching Ken
Thank You !
The magic smoke is getting OUT. LOL
OEM
Nowadays I have found aftermarket parts are hit and miss!!
Absolutely! I always try OEM but the wait time can devistate a customer if they are down a truck. Some OEM parts on intergalactic back order 🙄 thanks for watching and keep wrenching 🔧
I had a bad day years ago doing an oil sending unit on a 1994 Grand Am quad four. I cracked the upper camshaft housing while snugging it up. The casting was paper thin on the one side. That car went to the junkyard with a penny JB welded in the threads...!!! Also did an internal water pump on it. What a treat that was. A GM mechanic said he could replace it in 45 minutes if his tools were laid out out & I replied I couldn't do it in 44 minutes if the engine was out sitting on the floor..!!!
OMG !!! I did the exact same thing on a Quad-4 !!! What I wound up doing was tightening up the sending unit a touch more and sprayed the area with rubbing alcohol. After that dried I took JB Weld and packed the Crack. I then backed off on the sending unit until the JB started to push out as the Crack closed up . I left it sit 24 hours and then started it up ... to my amazement, it didn't leak !!! It was my cousins car . She had it for a few more years before getting rid of it . That was a poor design for sure !! Thanks for sharing your story !!
Thanx Kenny for sharing your wisdom & stories. I'm 60 & been wrenching since my teens. How do you feel about all the plastic parts on today's cars ? JUNK...!!! I'm not complaining cause it puts food on the table. I see u purchased a launch scan tool, I have an upper end launch tool & an Autel pro.They work well for the price.
I don't miss all this crap in this game. Glad I retired and bought new cars and sold after 20000 miles..No maintenance ,no worries
I use vise grips to hold the hood up ...
yes, never leave the keys in a vehicle. found that out many years ago the hard way while it was running. lol
The Malibu also has a remote start function that can be a bit crazy too. Keep the keys out and save your fingers.
I always put the window down
The information & knowledge gain from watching these videos is priceless. He is great.
Kenny, my son just had an oil press switch replaced on his KIA Sedona V6. The switch was leaking and it sits down in the valley of the V under the intake and there’s a bulletin on it, which also says the leak is often mistaken for a rear main seal as that’s where the oil drains over and down to, but in my sons case, the oil was also (mostly) actually being pushed thru the wiring leading to the switch (between the insulation and the copper), thru the harness, and over to the passenger side front where a few switches and or solenoids sat on a bracket above the valve cover. It dropped down the front of the engine and onto the serpentine belt as well as the accessory drives. Thankfully it was under warranty.
Ken I'm loving your channel so many of the hints you give are things I do and your approach is no nonsense...keep em ccomming
Hi this is Takamori Takano and I'm a diesel mechanic and also doing Japanese vehicles and I have been watching your channel and what your saying about the mechanic is really 👌 and it helps me alot anyway I'm from republic of Palau.
I had the very same thing happen with a NGK plug, brand new and sheered right off at the threads. i feel your panic sir.
What was up with the low coolant? It was noisy on start up did you check the oil level? Nice wrenching. I got out of the automotive career yrs ago thank God. I just do side work for family and friends.
Love your show, very common sense approach to car diagnosis. Great tips too!
Scotty Kilmer is an excellent mechanic like yourself, but your relaxed calm manner is much more appealing to me, you are very thorough, not just getting the vehicle out the door but fixing the inherent issues to stop a mid term repeat of the same fault. Good tips too, I am impressed as a home mechanic that I know some tips already, but I always pick something new too.
Scotty was once a good mechanic but his days are long since gone. He is nothing more than a mountain of misinformation and personal opinions, stuck in a bygone era of the late ‘90s. Shame on you for putting Kenny and Scotty in the same category.
@@larryreno8293 Amen!
New subscription and getting tons of info! Thanks Kenny!
Tht was crazy on new oil p switch! It goes to show you on workmanship lately.& it's twice expensive!
China
I’m glad someone else has same luck as me. On older cars I would have trouble with some parts that no one else has ever heard of that problem
The weird thing about the broken sensor at 12:34 is there is no center hole for pressure to make its way into the pressure sensor. Clearly a manufacturing error. Even if it didn't break, the pressure will never be recorded.
My heart dropped when it snapped . It literally took next to no effort . I agree that there is some manufacturing defect in that part . I bet there is a whole run of those that's made wrong
Dodged a bullet there Kenny ! Thankfully the screw part came out easily , thanks for all you videos they are very helpful even to experienced mechanics
Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧
Very nice Video. Like the guy's easy going gravitas while he does a great job.
I would never drive a car that is called Malibu. Those things are nothing but mechanic money makers. Love your hard work and dedication Kenny
I'm on my second Malibu. What can I say, the prices were right (cheaper than dirt!) I do my own wrenching but they both have needed so much of my attention and blood that they have made me start to despise Chevys in general. Love wrenching on my Heep though...
That was my thought also upon seeing what he was working on GARBAGE! but unbelievable there are garbage deniers that will tell you Malibu is a great car im like pfff gtfooh
Yeah, it's always a payday with Chevrolet!
Great class kenny
Nice video and congratulations on 10k plus subscribers
You deserve a lot more..
thanks for sharing the knowledge
Good video, thanks
Hood prop is cheaper however the fancy ones that fail before the warranty are stocked ready to purchase anytime 😊
i enjoy your videos
Kenny I like your keep it simple ,common sense approach, So you dont need $20 000 worth of diagnostic equipment to diagnose a starter?
good video
the bar prop is of course cheaper to produce than the gas struts, and it's such a difference that the Toyota lead engineer pointed it out on a car that was the subject of an interview he was doing w/ a journo. I was kinda stunned that he bothered mentioning it as a signal that the car was 'nicer' than basic. It IS nice to have but only when it works obviously
Currently I’m dealing with that same issue on my 07 Malibu. Battery has been out of the car for almost a year and the starter was changed almost 3 years prior to car not running. Now I feel I may have been overlooking something assuming that the starter / battery could not be the problem. You have given me something to think about when I do get back to fixing the car. Mine is low miles for the year so I’d rather not get rid of it. Thanx for this especially and also for all your videos! 👍🏼👍🏼
Don’t know if you have a power probe but there very helpful in this situation when u work by yourself!
Note to self: To help test a battery, you can put the cables you're using to jump the vehicle at different spots to rule out the possibility of having bad terminals on the battery. For example, you can put your negative lead not on the negative terminal on the battery, but on some grounded parts of the car, like the frame. And you can put the positive battery cable not on the positive terminal of the battery, but further down the line (he used the point where the positive cable went to the fuse box.) Just don't do it at the same time so that you know which battery terminal is defective. It's not really that important but for reasons of curiosity.
Yes, a hood rod would be less expensive than a lift cartridge for the hood, but owners don't seem to like those rods. I consider that type of battery cable terminals to be "emergency-only". Good video.
I like a lift cartridge. That car had over 200,000 on it, and that should be expected.
Lift cartridges were intended to get us to come back for replacements at the dealer. Hood rods never need replacement
Considering that most owners treat the hood as if it were welded shut, I'm not sure that's the reason.
Good video I like how you share your experiences. Cracking a block with an oil sensor must have been a good time
Thank s
kenny i fixed one of these on a cavilier, it was blowing 1/2 quart out in 5 mile drive .i fixed it car still running today like a new one and won t burn a oz of oil .on that car you haft to reach straight in from passanger side front wheel with your arm pit over the brake rotor im 5 11 took several times to find the hole because you can t see it after you take oil filter off..
Noticed the copper washer on the sender unit and it made me think. The difference in the kind of washers used. I also have a Honda fit where the oil pan bolt has to be changed every time you do an oil change, why? Thanks for all the high quality videos by the way.
Well done video's Kenny. You would have been a good Auto Shop Teacher .. just sayin' ... Decades ago I can remember Standard as being the go to manufacture for Points and Condenser's etc. along with Blue Point and they were reliable. I guess like everything else nowadays their QC is on the decline ... 🤔
Standard Blue-streak was my go to distributor cap in the 80s-90s. I sense "made in china" on the oil sensor.
I'm not a fan of the GM 2.4 liter. The pcv on many of them gets all full of water, freezes and then blows the rear main out. I just had one on Monday on an Equinox that had blown the rear main seal. I pulled the breather hose off and it was full of water. Plus those things chug oil and eat timing chains. I don't have these problems with my old 2000 Silverado
What was the end result with the low coolant? Hopefully I didn't miss it if you covered it.
That sensor was a DOD. i.e. Dead On Delivery. I Like your short and to the point vid's
Last week, while removing a failed Variable Valve Timing Solenoid, it snapped off too! I had to use a hook to pull out the old part. A big P.I.T.A.
I've had egr valve break at the housing while threading the pipe back on wasn't even tighten yet on my old Ford truck, no cross threading was turning smooth too.
Just changed an oil pressure sending unit on an 8.3 Cummings. It was dripping from the sending unit itself. Wanted to use a genuine Cummings part. $95.00...that's outrageous. Installed it and it leaked from the exact same place... I had to double check to make sure I hadn't reinstalled the old one...nope. I guess it is a factory feature to show that the engine still has oil.
Aftermarket part didn't have that feature and was a third the price.
Go figure
Pressure switch snap off that thing looks pitiful 💩, but! You know what you did wrong ????? Ahhhh , you talked about the way the greenhorn mechanic over wedged that tapered switch that day 🤔 🔧 ,,, rebuilding automatic transmissions 44 years and I have "NOT" SEEN IT ALL , GOOD SHOW MAN. I gave you a 👍 and 🔔&sub
I handed over a bench build A - 500 dodge automatic transmission to a teenager customer later that afternoon he drives it to my shop with a spilt case on the return cooler with tapered fitting ! His dad said ( I told him I heard a POP)
Could you tell us why it didn’t have coolant?
@WrenchingWithKenny And the low coolant level? Anything further or mysterious about that?
I'm pretty sure Carquest is good with their return policy
My 2006 BMW M5 has good rubber on suspension drive train and hood struts work? 234, km no codes I fix myself few repairs. Trans can be clunky but HWY drives are golden.
Note to self: Small amounts of smoke can come from the starter if you try jumping the starter and there is an oil leak that's dripping down onto the starter. Unsurprising but notable.
The oil sending unit/ pressure switch beijg bad on a 3800 will cause a no crank no start. It causes this by killing power to the fuel pump. So you'll chase that rather than the problem. So on a 3800 is you have q crank no start where the fuel pump isn't kicking on check the oil sending unit on rear passenger side of the engine.
What was the no coolant on this?
This is why it's smart to address mechanical issues quickly. If not, the cost of repair will generally increase with time.
First time for everything
I've seen bad oil sender switches fail through the top, and the oil pressure force oil up through the electrical connection, through the wire and all the way back to an ECU and fill it completely up inside, causing many strange codes before the ecu quits.
The 2.4 isn’t a bad engine in my little experience but that Malibu certainly looks better than my crappy impala.
If I am correct, standard is made in India. Thank goodness you had the space of a washer to remove the end piece.
Hey Kenny are there any other mechanics to work on all those cars around their building when you leave?
Ever find out why the coolant level was so low????
Well , I’m not going to pick on BWD ( broken when delivered ) since it’s a STANDARD part . To be fair , I’m still driving on the same standard ignition coil on my Jeep Cherokee almost 20 years . You got to love them though , they’ll blame the guy behind the wrench for this every time . Stripped threaded connections on steering racks and elsewhere to name a few .
i may have a snowflake car, but when ever i do anything with the battery in my car it forces an unlock, then again you need to disable the alarm and use the key to access the battery so theres that
Those bolt together battery cable clamps are ALWAYS a problem!!
What did you use to clean the oil out of the plug?
Most GMs will unlock the drivers door if you leave the keys in the ignition. However Hondas will lock the doors all by them selves even if the key is in the ignition. If possible I like to roll the drivers window down just in case.
i have an older malibu, it has a hood prop, i installed a strut
That's awesome Kenny!
Did you clean the motor coming from that shot oil sending unit? If so, what was your process???Great job
Any standard part I've ever used was complete junk and rarely lasted. They're hard up parts in case that's all you can get in a tight situation.
What about the low antifreeze way was it low ken
That’s actually a misprint on the part number. It’s actually POS-402😂
Was the Standard brand sensor made in China?????
Vice grips make excellent temporary cure for bad hood prop
Kenny haven't seen you use that 90 degree battery takerofferer before maybe I need to watch past video's
Does oil short out electrical connections? Is oil conductive?
Motor oil has a high impedance and typically won’t affect the oil switch connection. The problem with this situation is that the oil got into and on the starter brushes and armature, compromising the connection.
I had the exacted thing happen installing a oil sending unit on a 6.0 ford diesel. barely any torque and wallah
not a question of which is cheaper how many rods would be sold vs how many shocks are sold
A big C.P.R. moment!
Another fantastic tutorial on common sense diagnostics and troubleshooting techniques through life experience and expertise, that demonstrates a practical approach and general know how without application of thousands of dollars of sophisticated equipment.
I truly appreciate your sharing of wisdom and style, where your videos utilize the “see one, do one and teach one” methodology that allows others to not only learn from your decades of experience but also your candor to share mistakes that we all make in life.
Thank you, Kenny and keep wrenchin’ 👏🏻👏🏻💯 🔧 🧰
Great videos. Very informative.
I prefer to use OEM for anything electrical. Not a guarantee of success, but much better.
My question and or statement....OEM
I remember that Standard was *the* brand to buy. Now I keep hearing less than good things about their quality. That makes me sad.
Let’s all have a guess of the country of origin of that sensor that broke off 🤠
Yea I always try and roll down the window Too many times a International clocked the door by just shutting the door a little too hard. Made in china sensor I bet
Can always tell the guys that don't turn wrenches for a living. NEVER touch a window unless it is specifically the trouble to be corrected.
I ordered these really cool T-handle locks that bolt on the that hood prop from Amazon. I used one the weekend working on my vehicle. Works really well. Just a suggestion.
👏👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍
Don't forget the antifreeze!
You call it taper fit I call it pipe thread. :)
😁
If Standard knew they were bad you’d think they’d had a recall so if you called them I bet they appreciated that call. Imagine how many they produce on a run. Definitely makes your heart skip a beat. Great video.
Brake cleaner and clean the starter inside to dry out the brushes.?????
YES! We have NO bananas! WE HAVE NO BANANAS TODAY!
Najs 😂
Sender made in Mexico, what did you expect?
Unfortunately, today Elgin basically exists in name only. You likely got an SMP in a Napa box.
On anything, if there is no quality control. Failure is going to happen.
P.S.402 - Piece a Scheet model 402 😆
Man doesn't need a scanner
Reminds me of my old 89 Jeep Wrangler w/ 2.5 ltr engine. The thing was bullet proof but had a valve cover oil leak that was unfixeable due to excessive blow by; but it only lost a quart of oil every 3000 miles. Still had plenty of power and good driveability at 350,000 miles when I traded it in, but I got really good at replacing the starter as it went went through 6 or 7 of them because they would get saturated with oil and fail. In retrospective I probably should have tried wrapping it in plastic but I just didn't think about it at the time.