Dude! You did a great job of explaining how these contraptions work. I had already solved an ice maker problem so your explanation made sense. It’s an amazing device that has no software but actually makes functional decisions using a series of mechanical switches and cams just as you said. Whoever designed it was a genius.
Thanks! Thanks to you - no more loud noises! He is what I did with your advice. I was able to fix this! With someone else’s TH-cam advice. Gently apply pressure (using a normal flat blade screwdriver ) to the bottom outside edge of the front cover plate of the ice maker to remove it. It should be easy to “pop off”. Once off, you’ll see two small plastic gears. These along with a safety mechanism to keep there plastic teeth from breaking are causing the load knocking noises. The reason is that small screw adjustment above the two gears is defaulted wide open to create the largest size ice cubes possible. The problem is that doesn’t work because the heater (tubing you see under the ice tray) can’t warm up the frozen ice fast enough to allow it to break free and dump into the ice tray. The fix is to tighten that adjustment screw about 4 full turns to create smaller ice! We like smaller ice any way and now just normal sounds of an ice maker and get ice made faster! If ice too small , open screw adjustment a bit more.
Will try it. Ours worked fine then started clicking .. in fact it got stuck on water fill mode while clicking making a pond on our floor! Makes me think twice about leaving the house and not shutting off the ice maker!!
Actually, update. My problem came back too, after making ice smaller. Here is how it sounds today th-cam.com/users/shortsFymvbJE1-SI?feature=share But I'm experimenting based on what you did with coating ice cube area with Virgin Olive Oil. If that works, I may get the food grade silicone you recommended.
@@dougjamesvandals that is the auto fill valve not closing had to replace mine and the fill trough feeding the tray had no cover around it allowing an ice build up in the top of the trough that when water was filling would hit the ice dam and deflect out and behind the panel eventually building up till the ice was hitting the fan making one hell of a sound twice as bad as the clicking. Thawed it out and cut a piece of half inch water pipe and slid it around the trough and it jade stooped the water from deflecting for longer than normal so hope this fixed it permanently. Edit: for spelling error
Thank you for your video. You saved me from buying a new ice maker assembly. My fix was the screw adjustment to make the ice bigger. I had it open all the way and the big wheels was not spinning. Thank you
Great video. Great detailed and perfectly detailed engineering troubleshooting for the explanation!!! Thank you. I've been heading the knocking for a couple weeks, and when we got home from a few days away, the ice maker had stopped completely. Full of ice
Thank you , very helpful. Now I know what that spring loaded screw tensioner does. Wonderful why my identical ice system just seems slower than it used to be? Also it is not apparent that my water valve has a filter unless it is inside the valve and can’t be seen? My ice tray is filling up and making ice, just seems a lot slower. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks so much for this video! This same problem had me scratching my head but your video helped me understand whats going on and saved me having to call a repairman. I simply cranked down the adjustment screw about 5 full turns and avoided the silicone spray. Will see how it goes…
I've watched a lot of these videos on refrigerator ice maker repair in the last couple of days and I know for sure now that 80% of the people that post videos don't really know what they're talking about although they may have some useful information this video I learned the most about what I needed which was the position of the decam when you put the gear back on matter of fact as much as I know even a trained professional will consider me an expert but long story short there was nothing wrong with my ice maker it was simply the freezer temperature was too low cuz someone turned it down all the way. and also it made me realize I could have simply read the entire owner's manual of the refrigerator and I would know all this not all of it not to repair part but the diagnostic part.
like that confusing was it was actually also the arm was in turn to the off position while it was already in the off mode because the temperature was too high and the arm wouldn't go down so it seemed like something was jammed up in there
@@nw3228 I ignored the actual temperature and started in the middle. If the ice cream was a rock, it was too cold. If you could stick your finger in the ice cream, it would be too warm. Before the fix, it was on a 5 of 9. After the fix and playing around it was a 6 of 9. I am sure there is a real temperature for refrigeration purposes but this test worked best for me. At the different temperatures, there was still Ice.
Agreed but even being partially right I was pointed in the right direction. My favorite was sticking a screwdriver in the flap while waiting for the part.
I am going out on a limb with my comment, but here it is. The OP posted this video and I appreciate it, however, I think it is a "work around" for the real problem. I know he tested the mold heater and it tested good, but what about the micro switch that controls the mold heater? I agree that his mold heater is good, based on the low resistance reading on the heater. A low resistance reading translates into a high load (current flow) when the circuit is activated. The heater circuit is probably the highest current draw in the ice maker. This translates into more current having to flow thru the micro switch. Many times, these micro switches tend to give out due to this amount of current. Sometimes, even testing them with an ohm meter will cause them to read good but there will be enough "burn" or arc on the electrical contacts inside the switch to prevent the mold heater from coming on. By simply spraying the mold with silicone spray, it makes the ice mold able to slide the ice out with less effort. Also, decreasing the size of the ice cube will reduce the friction (or load) on the paddles trying to push the cubes out for harvest. This will also reduce or stop the clicking noise of the gears. The mold heater can be seen from the underside of the ice maker while still installed. If you want to test it the easy way, simply catch the ice maker at the very beginning of the harvest cycle. The heater should come on first and if you carefully place your hand under the heater without touching it, you should be able to verify whether the heater is actually working or not. Just don't touch it as it should be hot if it is working.
They all have this problem. Thank you for your video it fixed the problem. They need to put a sticker on that cover to tell you about the ice cube adjustment screw. Very poor engineering / marketing on Frigadaire's end. Mine sounded like some medieval catapult being tensioned as the cog dropped into the next position 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Beautiful video. Very helpful as I have the same problem. One question though. Where exactly did you spray the silicone? I've tightened the screw and will see how that helps. Thanks
My problem is similar but stopped making ice when a bag of frozen fruit hung up in the ice bin. This stopped the cycle from working. Replaced ice maker and the water inlet valve and still no water or ice. Thanks for your video.
Tightened screw.. I had same issue on old unit bench tested it heater ohms fine.. motor ohms were not right so bad drive motor cost to replace as high as new unit. New unit 4 months old clicking now.. will adjust screw for smaller cubes reduce resistance.. rem ice trays growing up they never had any issues!!
Nice job! I had no idea that food-grade silicone mold release was a 'thing'... I'll have to 'git-me some'... I worked on a very similar Frigidaire model tonight. They also job a "loud clicking" complaint in the past that seems to have resolved for now. The main problem (with mine) was a water filter that had frozen and cracked wide open so they had turned off the water supply. The filter is now replaced and temp. sensor(s) adjusted and I think we're back in business.
I’ve tried tightening the screw which has sometimes worked. The other problem I’m having is the arms got stuck above the ice which has completely frozen at bottom, and it’s not able to rotate anymore
I have the exact same Frigidaire ice maker my landlord put a brand new one 2 yrs ago and I noticed water goes in the tray then freezes but now I can't get anything ugggh
You said you sprayed it up, what did you spray? Our icemaker is doing the same thing. Actually it’s not now because it’s stopped completely. We have done everything we know to fix it but nothing has worked. What did you spray? The gears? Thank you for any advice you can give me.
Same exact problem as happening with my mom's same exact ice maker.... Do you notice a few of the teeth in the large gear are ground down? I noticed the same on her large gear. also the paddles were lifting the ice out, but not over the edge, before getting stuck.
That flickering is from your flashlight. I bet you’ll notice a difference if it’s got two brightness settings like mine does. One flickers more than the other.
Excellent video. I can hear my ice maker doing the same thing, and I always thought it sounded like a gear slipping. The silicone is another good bit of info. I have to wonder; does that affect the taste of the ice? Thanks so much for sharing your insights.
I had a Frigidaire dishwasher that was so badd I took it out while It still under Warranty they lied, the repair Man Tell me it was a Design flow told them I was leaving food on the dishes It was the worst customer service experience of my life
Looks like your Large Gear looks like it's wearing down though on top right of the Video. Unless it's just bad shadowing. I'm having same issue of clicking as my ice maker is 2 Months new. And has even working great till now is clicking and now water is filling even though I take the Harvest padals and move then to the very right and have lever on. 🤔
Hey thanks for the vid it did helped me fixing my problem...but now I have another problem water doesn't go to the ice maker and maybe you have a vid for that or you can help me fix it please
He mentioned he has an reverse osmosis system which is known to reduce pressure/flow so your 7 1/2 seconds doesn’t really apply. That 7 1/2 seconds is based on your typical residential water flow rate. I would almost guarantee his rate is lower resulting in less water getting into the mold. Reverse osmosis is definitely known to cause issues with ice makers
Thanks I have same problem clicking noise (sounds like someone knocking on your door) and collection of water (ice) forms at back. I'll try silicone an lowering water flow.
Wow. Some advice pinfish. I have a master's in electrical engineering and 15 years in the field. This guy fixing his own ice maker is extremely methodical and intelligent when it comes to understanding and diagnosing root causes of failure. This is precisely what people want when they come to watch. To learn how to fix it and minimize their risk of it failing again. It's not our fault that cheap chinese crap has proliferated across this globe but I can with certainty say that it is your fault for suggesting the wrong solution...buy a new piece of crap and without understanding the problem, install it anyways and wait for it to fail again. So typical. Your 30 years if experience has taught you nothing about solving real problems. More than likely it's just about lining your own pockets. And that is why I will never ever hire someone to fix my broken stuff. The real fix is often too boring or time consuming for anyone else.
@@byugrad1024 the main problem is the water setting too much and causing this root problem, just adjust it down to start with a smaller cube and it will work ok and make ice quicker,people just do not know this and you can not expect something new to work anymore/partsmanrgw
Dude!
You did a great job of explaining how these contraptions work. I had already solved an ice maker problem so your explanation made sense. It’s an amazing device that has no software but actually makes functional decisions using a series of mechanical switches and cams just as you said. Whoever designed it was a genius.
Thanks! Thanks to you - no more loud noises! He is what I did with your advice.
I was able to fix this! With someone else’s TH-cam advice. Gently apply pressure (using a normal flat blade screwdriver ) to the bottom outside edge of the front cover plate of the ice maker to remove it. It should be easy to “pop off”. Once off, you’ll see two small plastic gears. These along with a safety mechanism to keep there plastic teeth from breaking are causing the load knocking noises. The reason is that small screw adjustment above the two gears is defaulted wide open to create the largest size ice cubes possible. The problem is that doesn’t work because the heater (tubing you see under the ice tray) can’t warm up the frozen ice fast enough to allow it to break free and dump into the ice tray.
The fix is to tighten that adjustment screw about 4 full turns to create smaller ice! We like smaller ice any way and now just normal sounds of an ice maker and get ice made faster! If ice too small , open screw adjustment a bit more.
Update: Keep in mind you’ll still hear the knocking sound; but fir a lot shorter time and not as often. And we like smaller ice, makes faster ice too!
Will try it. Ours worked fine then started clicking .. in fact it got stuck on water fill mode while clicking making a pond on our floor! Makes me think twice about leaving the house and not shutting off the ice maker!!
Actually, update. My problem came back too, after making ice smaller. Here is how it sounds today th-cam.com/users/shortsFymvbJE1-SI?feature=share But I'm experimenting based on what you did with coating ice cube area with Virgin Olive Oil. If that works, I may get the food grade silicone you recommended.
@@dougjamesvandals that is the auto fill valve not closing had to replace mine and the fill trough feeding the tray had no cover around it allowing an ice build up in the top of the trough that when water was filling would hit the ice dam and deflect out and behind the panel eventually building up till the ice was hitting the fan making one hell of a sound twice as bad as the clicking. Thawed it out and cut a piece of half inch water pipe and slid it around the trough and it jade stooped the water from deflecting for longer than normal so hope this fixed it permanently.
Edit: for spelling error
Thank you for your video. You saved me from buying a new ice maker assembly. My fix was the screw adjustment to make the ice bigger. I had it open all the way and the big wheels was not spinning. Thank you
By the way, you dont need to remove the mounting screws completely, just loosen them a couple turns and lift the icemaker up.
Great video. Great detailed and perfectly detailed engineering troubleshooting for the explanation!!!
Thank you. I've been heading the knocking for a couple weeks, and when we got home from a few days away, the ice maker had stopped completely. Full of ice
Thank you , very helpful. Now I know what that spring loaded screw tensioner does. Wonderful why my identical ice system just seems slower than it used to be? Also it is not apparent that my water valve has a filter unless it is inside the valve and can’t be seen? My ice tray is filling up and making ice, just seems a lot slower. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
DUDE!!!!! You got a restaurant slicer machine at home .... that so cool if you don't have little kids... but cool👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks so much for this video! This same problem had me scratching my head but your video helped me understand whats going on and saved me having to call a repairman. I simply cranked down the adjustment screw about 5 full turns and avoided the silicone spray. Will see how it goes…
I've watched a lot of these videos on refrigerator ice maker repair in the last couple of days and I know for sure now that 80% of the people that post videos don't really know what they're talking about although they may have some useful information this video I learned the most about what I needed which was the position of the decam when you put the gear back on
matter of fact as much as I know even a trained professional will consider me an expert
but long story short there was nothing wrong with my ice maker it was simply the freezer temperature was too low cuz someone turned it down all the way. and also it made me realize I could have simply read the entire owner's manual of the refrigerator and I would know all this not all of it not to repair part but the diagnostic part.
like that confusing was it was actually also the arm was in turn to the off position while it was already in the off mode because the temperature was too high and the arm wouldn't go down so it seemed like something was jammed up in there
Turn the temperature too low and you have to take a hammer and chisel to the icecream
What should the freezer temperature be set as?
@@nw3228
I ignored the actual temperature and started in the middle. If the ice cream was a rock, it was too cold. If you could stick your finger in the ice cream, it would be too warm. Before the fix, it was on a 5 of 9. After the fix and playing around it was a 6 of 9. I am sure there is a real temperature for refrigeration purposes but this test worked best for me. At the different temperatures, there was still Ice.
Agreed but even being partially right I was pointed in the right direction. My favorite was sticking a screwdriver in the flap while waiting for the part.
I am going out on a limb with my comment, but here it is. The OP posted this video and I appreciate it, however, I think it is a "work around" for the real problem. I know he tested the mold heater and it tested good, but what about the micro switch that controls the mold heater? I agree that his mold heater is good, based on the low resistance reading on the heater. A low resistance reading translates into a high load (current flow) when the circuit is activated. The heater circuit is probably the highest current draw in the ice maker. This translates into more current having to flow thru the micro switch. Many times, these micro switches tend to give out due to this amount of current. Sometimes, even testing them with an ohm meter will cause them to read good but there will be enough "burn" or arc on the electrical contacts inside the switch to prevent the mold heater from coming on. By simply spraying the mold with silicone spray, it makes the ice mold able to slide the ice out with less effort. Also, decreasing the size of the ice cube will reduce the friction (or load) on the paddles trying to push the cubes out for harvest. This will also reduce or stop the clicking noise of the gears.
The mold heater can be seen from the underside of the ice maker while still installed. If you want to test it the easy way, simply catch the ice maker at the very beginning of the harvest cycle. The heater should come on first and if you carefully place your hand under the heater without touching it, you should be able to verify whether the heater is actually working or not. Just don't touch it as it should be hot if it is working.
They all have this problem. Thank you for your video it fixed the problem. They need to put a sticker on that cover to tell you about the ice cube adjustment screw. Very poor engineering / marketing on Frigadaire's end. Mine sounded like some medieval catapult being tensioned as the cog dropped into the next position 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Thanks for posting this....I have the same ice maker and I'm trying to troubleshoot it. You've saved me some time! Thanks
Love this ! A great explanation and very helpful 😊
Beautiful video. Very helpful as I have the same problem. One question though. Where exactly did you spray the silicone? I've tightened the screw and will see how that helps. Thanks
My problem is similar but stopped making ice when a bag of frozen fruit hung up in the ice bin. This stopped the cycle from working. Replaced ice maker and the water inlet valve and still no water or ice. Thanks for your video.
Tightened screw.. I had same issue on old unit bench tested it heater ohms fine.. motor ohms were not right so bad drive motor cost to replace as high as new unit.
New unit 4 months old clicking now.. will adjust screw for smaller cubes reduce resistance.. rem ice trays growing up they never had any issues!!
Should the gears always be turning or not? I manually turned them and ice dispensed, but they stopped turning shortly thereafter.
thank you for the food grade silicon spray tip. much appreciated.
Thanks that was helpful. I finally found a video with the information I was looking for.
When it DOES work, it qualifies as the LOUDEST icemaker in the West!
Nice job! I had no idea that food-grade silicone mold release was a 'thing'... I'll have to 'git-me some'... I worked on a very similar Frigidaire model tonight. They also job a "loud clicking" complaint in the past that seems to have resolved for now. The main problem (with mine) was a water filter that had frozen and cracked wide open so they had turned off the water supply. The filter is now replaced and temp. sensor(s) adjusted and I think we're back in business.
I'm in the same boat. Thanks for the video. It helped.
Water comes in erraticly some yes some no
Great video!!!! Saved me from calling a "Repair Man" as requested by my wife!!!
LOL mine too and I had replaced.my unit! Basically if it doesnt work replace.. $45 on ebay
how do you set the cam after it was clicking ?
You sounded a lot like Robert Downey jr when the video started lol thanks for the vid
I’ve tried tightening the screw which has sometimes worked. The other problem I’m having is the arms got stuck above the ice which has completely frozen at bottom, and it’s not able to rotate anymore
I have the exact same Frigidaire ice maker my landlord put a brand new one 2 yrs ago and I noticed water goes in the tray then freezes but now I can't get anything ugggh
I did not see you spray the silicone. can you do it with the icemaker in place?
This fixed my ice maker. Thanks so much. The ice setting was too large and the ice could not slide out.
You said you sprayed it up, what did you spray? Our icemaker is doing the same thing. Actually it’s not now because it’s stopped completely. We have done everything we know to fix it but nothing has worked. What did you spray? The gears? Thank you for any advice you can give me.
Same exact problem as happening with my mom's same exact ice maker.... Do you notice a few of the teeth in the large gear are ground down? I noticed the same on her large gear. also the paddles were lifting the ice out, but not over the edge, before getting stuck.
Great video was having exact same problem! Thanks!
That flickering is from your flashlight. I bet you’ll notice a difference if it’s got two brightness settings like mine does. One flickers more than the other.
Excellent video. I can hear my ice maker doing the same thing, and I always thought it sounded like a gear slipping. The silicone is another good bit of info. I have to wonder; does that affect the taste of the ice? Thanks so much for sharing your insights.
I had a Frigidaire dishwasher that was so badd I took it out while It still under Warranty they lied, the repair Man Tell me it was a Design flow told them I was leaving food on the dishes It was the worst customer service experience of my life
Its a shame that Frigidaire was a household name that every frig was called a frigidaire at one time and now they are junk right out of the box.
Very helpful video thanks this was exactly my problem...
Looks like your Large Gear looks like it's wearing down though on top right of the Video. Unless it's just bad shadowing.
I'm having same issue of clicking as my ice maker is 2 Months new. And has even working great till now is clicking and now water is filling even though I take the Harvest padals and move then to the very right and have lever on. 🤔
Awesome video, Frigidaire should pay you royalties
VG video. No music so u can actually listen to his advice. I found contact points that were burned. A little filing and it works.
Hey thanks for the vid it did helped me fixing my problem...but now I have another problem water doesn't go to the ice maker and maybe you have a vid for that or you can help me fix it please
How did you check to see if the heater was working? Where did you put the meter?
What part exactly did you spray?
The ice tray and gears.
@@tedschmitt178 The spray makes it slippery --- so DO NOT spray the gears.
I'm not getting water into the tray I change the water pump I'm still not getting any water what else could be wrong
I Have the same ice maker but its super slow to make ice.. any ideas on why?
I have question about which way 2 turn adjustment screw for water valve i 2 much water going into ice ??..
Clockwise. I would start with 3 or 4 turns and see where it’s at on the next cycle
Good stuff. Thank you Sir.
Our Frigidaire freezer is also from hell!
Thank you, I had the exact same problem.
7 1/2 seconds that’s how long the valve should stay on and fill your ice tray. Adjust the screw.
He mentioned he has an reverse osmosis system which is known to reduce pressure/flow so your 7 1/2 seconds doesn’t really apply. That 7 1/2 seconds is based on your typical residential water flow rate. I would almost guarantee his rate is lower resulting in less water getting into the mold. Reverse osmosis is definitely known to cause issues with ice makers
Thank you, thank you!!!!!!!!!
Most Excellent video!
Thanks I have same problem clicking noise (sounds like someone knocking on your door) and collection of water (ice) forms at back. I'll try silicone an lowering water flow.
let us know how the silicone works.
Nope. Not my issue at all.
Excellent!!!!!
Yes, exactly: Where did you spray the silicone?
amazon
just on the moulded tray (the surface of the area that the ice cube is sitting in).
The ice makers in GE's aren't any better.
Thanks man, that did it
what about no water being supplied - new ice maker?
sounds like you need a new water valve solenoid, located on the back, right side of the fridge
My icemaker sounds like a fucking walrus.
Then it only makes 6 cubes a day. Like what the fuck
Mine stopping working , how to you jump start it????
Take out and defrost it.. then try if nothing then new unit ebay
I'll bet if we ask you what time it is, you'll teach us how to build a clock. 😂
Can you put it on the mantle?
Man I hate this fridge... its always something
Too many "uh"s that's very distracting
This is not really a fix, You can purchase a new ice maker for around 49.00 at lowes, Advise from a Tech with over 30 yrs. Exp.
He salty. Wanted me to call him so he could charge me $150 🤣
Wow. Some advice pinfish. I have a master's in electrical engineering and 15 years in the field. This guy fixing his own ice maker is extremely methodical and intelligent when it comes to understanding and diagnosing root causes of failure. This is precisely what people want when they come to watch. To learn how to fix it and minimize their risk of it failing again. It's not our fault that cheap chinese crap has proliferated across this globe but I can with certainty say that it is your fault for suggesting the wrong solution...buy a new piece of crap and without understanding the problem, install it anyways and wait for it to fail again. So typical. Your 30 years if experience has taught you nothing about solving real problems. More than likely it's just about lining your own pockets. And that is why I will never ever hire someone to fix my broken stuff. The real fix is often too boring or time consuming for anyone else.
@@byugrad1024 the main problem is the water setting too much and causing this root problem, just adjust it down to start with a smaller cube and it will work ok and make ice quicker,people just do not know this and you can not expect something new to work anymore/partsmanrgw