John Deere 830 Industrial - First Start in 20 Years
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ก.พ. 2024
- Bringing this abandoned John Deere 830-Industrial back to life. Fixing coolant issues and bleeding the fuel system, and FINALLY, the #firststart for this tractor in at least 20 years. It is not really a #barnfind but rather a field find. #tractor #johndeere #revival #diesel #willitstart #classic
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We have R, 2x 80, 820, 830, 2x 720, 730 diesel and a "few" gas tractors for me to start after being in sheds for many years I have cleaned up others that have sat longer but I hope the diesel Deeres come back to life as easily as yours !
Very cool! Best of luck!
Amazing how those old tractors will come back to life. Not just right, but you will get there. Good job!!
Thanks 👍
Great to hear the 830 running again ! Congratulations way to go.
Thanks! I was very happy with how well it started. More to come.
Very nice tractor moving some very nice snow. 🥳
It sure is
I love the fact that you have your dad there to give you advice on a piece of equipment that he knows about
He definitely has the upper hand. But I'm glad I have this time to wrench on this old equipment.
That was really something that it started that easy. So nice to hear it running again, really bullet proof tractors the old John Deeres were. Liked the longer video.
I was really amazed it started so quickly. As soon as I moved the throttle, it fired. And it wasn't a warm day...I mean it was a warm day for Utah in January, but it was only like 40 degrees. And no ether, either.
Thanks for keeping Dad busy.
He doesn't need my help... But I'm glad we get to work together
Listening to that industrial 830 run like that..... It has to be very satisfying and worth the effort getting it to run again, broken bolts, bits, and all. That jig idea is brilliant. I will have to remember that.
It was a huge relief! And I'm so glad it started as easily as it did. Now I just hope I can get the pony motor running!
Back when I was a Mac Tools distributor in the early eighties there was a jig that was in our product line for drilling out broken exhaust manifold bolts. It was not so practical for every situation but it also help keep the drill bit aligned on the bolt and not track off. It is very hard to "eyeball" the squareness and centering of a drill bit when you are laying on your back and looking up at a hand drill and getting it right. That jig that was presented reminded me of that and jogged my memory. A lot of people in order to try and save time try the "eyeball method" waste more time and come out with a substandard fix rather than take the time to make a simple jig as was shown. I noticed that he also used the jig to drill out the hole for the Helicoil tap and also as a pilot for tapping the hole for the Helicoil insert. There are other thread replacement products on the market that are superior to the Helicoil but for most applications the Helicoil works OK. And until I forgrt again I'll have to remember that tip as well.
@@billywird I work on aircraft for my job and when we have to repair damage (either maintenance induced or corrosion or whatever) we always use drill jigs. That's why I went this route. Some of the jigs at work are very complex. But without them we couldn't hold the tolerances we require.
It sounds good. I was looking at the head gasket while you were working on the fuel filters. It looks original and never been apart. I run Seafoam in all my engines and works great. I have an 820 that had a funny pop to it. It had sat for many years not run. When I got it I could only move it 8 teeth on the ring gear. I poured a gallon of diesel down the exhaust and walked away for a week. After a week I worked it back and forth till I got full revolutions and then pull started it. It had that funny pop to it and I knew it just needed to work. 2 years later I was able to work it in a field at the antique show for 3 hours. That cleaned it up and runs great now, i think a sticky valve. Everyone was telling me fuel system trouble but I knew to work it first. Try to give it a good workout for a few hours and change your oils. Do use the John Deere power steering oil. It is available from the John Deere Dealer. Just got some a couple years ago. Lethbridge didn,t have it in stock so I went to Cardston and picked it of the shelf. 5 $ a liter i think.
I'm really hoping that if I can work it hard this spring that any dirty injector will clean up. It's really cool that you got yours unstuck and it runs well without having to tear it apart and rebuild!
@@jonelsonster Yes I was real happy with the result. I did reseal the water pump. I was lucky to have a lathe to clean up where the seal rides.
Great video. Nothing better than breathing life back into those old tractors.
It's no surprise, I had a high sense of satisfaction driving around the yard for a few minutes.
One trick I've learned watching Adam Booth (Abom79) is to have a small collection of left-hand twist drill bits. A lot of time, as you gently drill, the bit will grab the broken bolt and back it right out.
That is also another option that could work!
One thing I do is pour seafoam in the fuel filters. I'm betting there is sludge in the fuel tank yet. I got an Oliver Super 77 diesel that had been sitting for ten years and made the mistake in my opinion of not emptying and cleaning out the fuel tank. I did change fuel filters. It's very difficult to start, misfires and smokes white. I rebuilt the injection pump and will be pulling the injectors next. I have to research a tool from Oliver for checking compression but I ran it 50 straight hours on my generator and it was down half a quart of oil and I believe most of it was on the ground. Its a leaky old girl. Once she's warmed up she's the smoothest tractor I have ever heard but at this point i don't think any additives will help and those injectors need to be physically cleaned.
I wanted to get new fuel filters in first thing to keep and grime from going into the injectors or the pump.
Not juding or saying anything about your choices but I sure do make some questionable judgement calls over here ! My brother parked his nice original 1958 770 row crop wide front diesel outside the shed for a couple of days, about 15 years ago. Last fall I needed to set up 5 bins in that area so I did a quick dump of the tank into actual containers and flushed with diesel conditioner / cleaner concoction up to injection pump and then removed all the injector lines to keep as much crap out of pump and injectors as possible. Engine runs great. Put the CaCl from tires into barrels, blasted and painted rims, wheels and weights, newer US rubber. Just have to get correct green paint and the tractor will be almost as nice as what he set out for "a few days".
@@duncanwatson7297 hahaha. I know how "when I get around to it" seems to work out. I have gotten the rebuilt injectors replaced and have come to the conclusion that the ole girl is just plain tired. I have also found a crack in the transmission case which will require a complete tear down. Right now I will probably run it on light jobs and have it on standby for the generator until I can collect parts. Unfortunately to make things more complicated, Oliver has several variations of the casting part number. At least the fuel system is ready for an overhauled engine. anyway. If anyone has an Oliver Super 77 diesel parts tractor with a transmission case part number 1MA596D, feel free to comment back to me.
@@danw6014we don't have a Super 77, our Super 88 row crop wide front diesel is one of my favourites ! Good luck with the repairs.
@@duncanwatson7297 thank you.
Great job to all involved. That's s keeper for sure. Thanks for sharing .till next video. 👍💯
Thanks so much!
You boys have got one rare bird there! I saw that one awaiting your TLC when you were tending to the R. If you're a 2 cylinder enthusiast in the least bit, that is an absolutely beautiful site! I was lucky enough to see a fully restored 830 Industrial at the 2 cylinder expo in Waterloo. I thought it was the neatest 2 cylinder I'd ever seen. Love your content guys.
Yes, as soon as I saw it, I knew it was something I wanted to try to buy. It took a couple of years to get the deal done, and I'm very glad I could finally get it. And now to hear it run and drive... Icing on the cake!
Great video! Good work recovering from the broken water pump bolt...very informative.
Thanks! That dumb water pump caused my a lot of stress. I didn't even film myself drilling the broken bolt/bit because I was worried it wouldn't work. But thankfully it did. I was very relieved once I got that helicoil installed.
Excellent video get some power service diesel treatment and put at least a quart of it with the fuel that is in the tank and run it along with 2 ounces of acetone paint thinner to remove the gunk from the pumps and injectors
Yes, I'm planning on adding a heavy duty injector cleaning additive. The one I bought also boosts the cetane level to improve combustion. I think you're right, it should clean up any carbon or contamination from the injectors.
That is the combo I use to clean system.
@duncanwatson7297 it seems to work good I have a L10 Cummins and it was not wanting to rev up so I poured that in the fuel and in about 2 minutes it revved up and ran perfectly.
I spent two summers pulling a one way with an 830 and it was always in 2nd gear. Great tractor and easy on fuel
Very cool!
I no longer drill out broken bolts. I weld a nut on top and remove the broken bolt. 100% success
I've heard of people doing that, but I've never tried it
@@jonelsonster. I was skeptical till I tried it. When you weld the nut it also heats the threads further releasing the broken bolt.
@@Military-Museum-LP I'm going to try that next time. My worry would be that I'd mess up and weld to the metal the hole is drilled into (the radiator tank, in this case). But I've heard of engine builders getting broken head or exhaust studs out with that technique, so it must need good.
Old iron living again. Wonderful.
Nice vid.
Many thanks!
I have a 820 that i took 2 tractors and made one good one. 30 years ago Had every bolt out of that tractor but the radiator. Like yours one of them didnt have hydraulics from the factory, so a previous owner put the pto out of a R to gain hydraulics. It also had the angle iron brackets for the extra drawbar support, but the cross bar support was missing. While doing that tractor i heard of a 830 Industrial being at the local scrap yard, there wasnt a lot left of it i guess. A friend was able to save the head off of it. It was gone by the time i found out about it. Good luck with the old girl!!!
Thanks! It's nice you were able to take the two 820's and make one good one. I wish my 830-I had a PTO, but I'm more glad that someone added hydraulics to mine. That will make running a disc or plow possible.
I love the 70 diesel standard. That is a sweet machine too
That 70 was the main tractor my dad used to run his old New Holland round baler up until a few years ago. It's a work horse. Here is a video from my brothers channel of the 70 working the baler: th-cam.com/video/KlWL80Kj5SM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=TkfKnOxaCvSzWiD9
Love the old tractor. Well worth restoring! Some of those had power steering and even a 1000 pto. That one being for specific industrial use I guess had less extra features.
This one has power steering, but it doesn't work...yet! One of the main difference between this industrial and an Ag version is the industrials have heavy duty frames and axle holdings
Well you gave it away at the very beginning. Without a doubt the shortest “ Will it run “ video ever.
I didn't want people to get bored watching me fix broken bolts in radiators and bleeding fuel systems! 😂
Dude that is Literally what 3/4 of the video was!! Except for watching Dad move snow. Still a great video. Thanks for entertaining me.
That's awesome!....you lucked out and got a good one there!!
You got that right!
Glad to see your Dad help out and offer his wisdom ( which seems he passed on to you ) 😉❤️
It's fun working together. Glad we have this time.
Nice! Keep saving Johnny Poppers, guys! I have an early memory of sitting on Grandpa's lap and steering his "Johnny Pop"!! Suscribed!!
Thanks! I too have really memories from the 80s riding on my uncle's JD 60. It'll stay with me forever
Yes sir it seems as though your Dad is as happy as a kid who just got a new toy for Xmas. I watch a lot of these "will it start videos" and although there are different circumstances the challenges of getting an engine started after sitting for many years can be difficult. The common thread however is that most of these people who do this stuff think that the engine should just run as though it was shut off yesterday and they do not give it time to warm up properly and get the lubrication circulating properly. Also they do not take into account the carbureted engines can be difficult as a carburetor gets stopped up and has gummy fuel which takes a while to get cleaned out (unless you just soak the carb in carb cleaner). Both tractors you have are good candidates for putting into service with the usual maintenance.🥸👍👍👍
I bought my first old piece of equipment when I was 17. I'm quite a bit older now, but still younger and less experienced than most. But in the 25+ years I've been working on old equipment I still get nervous starting sharing for the first time.
One approach that I've used successfully is, after drilling out using your carbide bit and guide, I then use a gas welding tip and I heat the remaining thread up then let it cool down. It can shrink enough to enable it to be wiggled/unscrewed out using a pick. Need to be careful to heat the whole length of the threads evenly and not so much that they melt and thus weld themselves to the hole or collapse and thus lose the shrinkage advantage. But if you get it right, it can work very well. I've had about a 75% success rate.
I can see how that would work! Good idea
That's the way to do it. Give everything a chance to warm and limber up and not run everything wide open. Just fast enough to get the job done and lot lug it to death. The crud looks like the old red coloring the diesel had in it when it first came out. Where I was working they had a Miller welder with a diesel engine. It ran red fuel and once in a while it'd fade out and you knew it was starving for fuel. It had an automotive filter with the aluminum housing and a hose barb on each end. We'd take the filter off and tap the inlet on a wood block and the dye would come out in lumps. Put the filter back on and away it'd go. Now for the pony motor! Those old big bore 2-bangers had a lot to turn over like the old low speed Cats did. I really enjoyed cranking the Cats off and them playing catch-up with the cylinders lighting off one at a time and building up till all were sputtering and warming up. Sure glad you got that one going. Now to follow along. Thanks and God Bless Yall!
Thanks! Yes we figure that diesel has been in the tank since at least 2004 because that is when the equipment in the yard where it was sitting was last used.
It'll be good for starting a brush pile on fire and washing parts in. I always just washed stuff off in gasoline. Will cut anything loose and I quit smoking YEARS ago! Gas and compressed air and a file or a good scraper. Good job on the helicoil too!@@jonelsonster
Owell pull the radiator 😮
?
Such an awesome sight and sound. Glad it's running, and it seems to be getting better the more you run it. Can't wait til you can tinker more. I've been in the PS system of mine if yours continues to not cooperate!
I'm hopeful that the misfire issue is due to air in the lines or just an injector that is stubborn after not being used for so long. I'll run some injector additive in the fuel and see if it resolves itself with time. As far as the power steering goes, I'll check fluid and see if it's just low... But I'm worried I'll need to go through it. On your 80, do you use special Deere power steering fluid, or just normal auto grade?
You for sure want to use the special John Deere fluid. Some get by using other fluids.....but why take a chance......@@jonelsonster
@@jonelsonster keep an eye on your oil level in case you have a leaking/cracked injector line. Or maye you have a sticky valve.
Next time take a cutting torch and heat it cherry red to aneal it and it will drill a lot easier. A lot of times you can take a needle nose pliers and stick it the flutes and turn it out.
There are several different ways to skin a cat. Heating the bolt and drill bit may have worked, but in this case I'd be worried about cracking the cast iron lower tank of the radiator. I ended up going with what I was comfortable with and am just glad it worked.
Make sure you drain the water out of the pony motor too.
Yes sir! 👍🏻
Try dumping a couple quarts of atf in the fuel, my guess is you have an injector sticking, atf will most likely free it up
I've heard that helps. I actually bought 2 qts of a heavy duty diesel additive that is supposed to clean injectors and it boosts the cetane to hopefully improve combustion. We'll see if it works
Boy when i bled my 820 i wish i would've known to pull that check ball i has to pull the tractor till it was spraying out each bleeder then finish by closing everything and tug just a little more. My 820 when its getting fuel pops off just like that 830 did even when its 0 degrees out
The running on one could be a sticky injector or a partially clogged injector
Yes, dirty injector is a good possibility. Another thing, after we parked the 830-I that day, I was talking to my dad about it and one reason why one cylinder wasn't firing all the time could have been because I never put the ball and spring back in. Maybe it helps maintain pressure up to the injection pump while operating? I've since out the ball and spring back in. So that might help? Either way, I'm going to run some injector cleaner additive in the fuel and see if it helps.
We now have 5 two cylinder diesels: two 830s, a 70, and two Rs. The 830s and the 70 fire right away, like you mention, and never blow any white smoke during warm up. The R's on the other hand smoke quite a lot while cold. Then clear up when warm. So, it seems Deere made some advancements in diesel engine design between the R and the number series that followed.
Excellent video Jonelstar :) low on oil may thats why on only one cylinder out to and would take hood bleed injectors on inlet and outlets ! See if help if not get grey bottle of STP Total Treatment fuel injection and carb cleaner in fuel tank with 200 ml General Motors Automatic transmission to run thru! May also leak on headgasket possible and hope don't need do completely engine over all ! Also is power steering that tractor have if does maybe gear box needs 80w90 fluid in it help out and think that tractor maybe was Minstery Transport for Roads & Works Department Highways for cutting trees in past that why tractor paint yellow too! Because my Minstery Department Roads & Works Highway trucks plus the tractors and machinery is Yellow colors !
I plan to run some heavy duty injector cleaner through the fuel system to clean up the injectors
Red Diesel turned brown is what you have.
Ha ha ha 😂
JD made an 840 self loader scraper the power unit / tractor is a two cylinder diesel they are said to be rare because of other diesel power units installed later in the articulated scrapers .
I've seen pictures of 840s but never seen one in person. From what I understand the 840 is the same as this 830-industrial except the operator position is changed. And the scraper attachment point on the 840 is directly over the rear differential, basically where I sit on my 830. It would be cool to see one operate.
@@jonelsonster Hey dude , I found a 4:30 video of 840 JD paddle scraper 2 cyl diesel. The cat is a d6 cable blade and the big orange is an Allis Chambers 20 I think .. JD makes cuts and dumps never gets out of 1st or 2nd but rolls coal down to counting the exhaust pulses and doesn't stall... Orange Posse Pulling Team.. John Deere 840 paddle scraper with D6 on UTUBE . 021424 04:15 pm
@@adhdrebel982 that's cool. I just went and doing it. Pulling a scraper like that would be a hard life!
@@jonelsonster Well it's a rolling load and only maybe a 3" cut with paddles doing the work .. pulling a 20' disk , or a 7 bottom plow would be working it fairly hard with a set of rice and canes or skidder rears to keep tire slip to a minimum..
Parabéns 830 tá com uma boa batida. Eu tenho que adquirir suporte filtro diesel inferior quebrado + bomba d'água para 820 🇧🇷
Thanks!
That thing is a beast! When you got it running, why do you think it was only hitting on one cylinder at first? It seemed like though the longer it ran the other cylinder finally kicked in. Do you think it’s an injector issue that it just needs to be cleaned?
I'm guessing either dirty injector or, more likely, air in the line. I'm going to throw a heavy dose of injector cleaner through the fuel system just to see if it helps rejuvenate the injectors. I really don't want to have to remove them if I don't need to.
@@jonelsonster well, other than the injector issue it sounds like a great running tractor for sitting 20 years and it started pretty easily
I would like to know why that old diesel was so black. Would someone have mixed in some old used motor oil to burn it as fuel?? do you think?
Fuel begins to turn to varnish when it sits for so long. So the diesel (which was dyed red for off road use) began to get darker and darker. And it does not burn as well
Diesel doesn’t go bad. Run it
Yes, I'm sure the old fuel would run, but I wanted to increase my chances of it starting easily this first time.
Pull your water plug out!
I did.
get a drill doctor if they still make them re sharpen old tips.
I'll have to check into that.
Learn how to shut down the engine and the the clutch...😮
I'm curious, what did we do wrong? We shut the throttle off and then pulled the decompression lever. I though that was proper shut down procedure.
Dude, ya park 'yer machinery on combustable materials.....WTF??
You mean in a barn? Yes we park our machinery in a barn.