You might want to take a compression test and see where the engine is at for wear . If it had heavy oil like #30 or #50 weight oil and you put in a multi grade or synthetic it’s much thinner and will blow bye a lot quicker if you take your oil filler cap/breather off while it’s running and it’s spitting oil out you might need to do a rebuild possibly. Hopefully that helps 😀🇨🇦
Thanks. I went back and checked the oil pressure gauge and found that I didn’t have it tightened enough so after tightening it starts with 20psi and runs between 10 and 12 psi which I hope is good. But it is still blowing out blue smoke. Not as bad as it was when I first changed the oil, hopefully that will clear up
@@living1206 If it didn't start smoking right away but increased after use, what may have happened is you used a detergent oil and it had been run with non-detergent oil before, so the detergent oil washed away all the sludge which was sealing the rings and now she smokes. A compression test will tell you what's going on. If the 'wet test' shows an increase of 15% over the 'dry' test, your rings are gone. In a new broken-in engine that's usually no more than a few percent rise. A cheap compression tester will do good enough for home and farm use or you might find one under a 'tool loan' program at an auto parts store. Back in the sixties and before, non-detergent oil was cheaper and it works fine as long as you keep up with the oil changes. As the name implies it will allow sludge to build up inside an engine.That sludge will build up wherever there's space from wear like under the rings on the pistons, around the valve guides and seals, and in plain bearings and oil passages. Sludge doesn't lubricate so you end up with engine wear. Before detergent oils some folks ran kerosene through the engine while idling for 5- to10 minutes every few years to clean the sludge out, then they drained it and changed to oil for driving. Others added things like 'Marvel's Mystery oil" to help prevent sludging or added it when oil passages became clogged. In some cars average engine life was 100K miles or less. Detergent oils helped prevent sludge build-up and let the oil lubricate better, adding 25% to 50% or more to engine life, so it was called for in just about everything made after the early 60's. Non-detergent oil has become a bit hard to find now but Tractor supply has it or you can order it from any parts house if they don't stock it. Also you can compensate for some wear by running a heavier weight of oil, but if you go too heavy it may not drain back fast enough to the oil pan and result in oil starvation. Another thing to be aware of is that today's oils have little to no Zinc in them, which was long used as an anti-wear additive in oils because it adds to pollution when burned. The zinc lessens plain bearing wear. New engines are designed for that, but old engines weren't so a lot of people now recommend using an oil additive containing the needed zinc for use in these older engines. Probably a good idea to do that or to use one of the specialty oils blended for older engines that have enough zinc in them. Most of the mechanics of today don't know much about this stuff because they have no experience with older engines and non-detergent oil. For your use, you might just live with the smoke while keeping the oil topped off as long as you have enough oil pressure, and switching to a heavier weight mono-grade oil might help but at some point you should just rebuild the engine if you want to keep the tractor. Doingthat early rather than later might save you from having to turn or replace the crankshaft, and replace the cam and lifters because of wear.
Brasil❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Blessings
That tractor is screaming for some love, is that the alternator bearing screaming help?
You might want to take a compression test and see where the engine is at for wear .
If it had heavy oil like #30 or #50 weight oil and you put in a multi grade or synthetic it’s much thinner and will blow bye a lot quicker if you take your oil filler cap/breather off while it’s running and it’s spitting oil out you might need to do a rebuild possibly.
Hopefully that helps 😀🇨🇦
Thanks. I went back and checked the oil pressure gauge and found that I didn’t have it tightened enough so after tightening it starts with 20psi and runs between 10 and 12 psi which I hope is good. But it is still blowing out blue smoke. Not as bad as it was when I first changed the oil, hopefully that will clear up
@@living1206 If it didn't start smoking right away but increased after use, what may have happened is you used a detergent oil and it had been run with non-detergent oil before, so the detergent oil washed away all the sludge which was sealing the rings and now she smokes. A compression test will tell you what's going on. If the 'wet test' shows an increase of 15% over the 'dry' test, your rings are gone. In a new broken-in engine that's usually no more than a few percent rise. A cheap compression tester will do good enough for home and farm use or you might find one under a 'tool loan' program at an auto parts store.
Back in the sixties and before, non-detergent oil was cheaper and it works fine as long as you keep up with the oil changes. As the name implies it will allow sludge to build up inside an engine.That sludge will build up wherever there's space from wear like under the rings on the pistons, around the valve guides and seals, and in plain bearings and oil passages. Sludge doesn't lubricate so you end up with engine wear. Before detergent oils some folks ran kerosene through the engine while idling for 5- to10 minutes every few years to clean the sludge out, then they drained it and changed to oil for driving. Others added things like 'Marvel's Mystery oil" to help prevent sludging or added it when oil passages became clogged. In some cars average engine life was 100K miles or less. Detergent oils helped prevent sludge build-up and let the oil lubricate better, adding 25% to 50% or more to engine life, so it was called for in just about everything made after the early 60's. Non-detergent oil has become a bit hard to find now but Tractor supply has it or you can order it from any parts house if they don't stock it. Also you can compensate for some wear by running a heavier weight of oil, but if you go too heavy it may not drain back fast enough to the oil pan and result in oil starvation.
Another thing to be aware of is that today's oils have little to no Zinc in them, which was long used as an anti-wear additive in oils because it adds to pollution when burned. The zinc lessens plain bearing wear. New engines are designed for that, but old engines weren't so a lot of people now recommend using an oil additive containing the needed zinc for use in these older engines. Probably a good idea to do that or to use one of the specialty oils blended for older engines that have enough zinc in them.
Most of the mechanics of today don't know much about this stuff because they have no experience with older engines and non-detergent oil. For your use, you might just live with the smoke while keeping the oil topped off as long as you have enough oil pressure, and switching to a heavier weight mono-grade oil might help but at some point you should just rebuild the engine if you want to keep the tractor. Doingthat early rather than later might save you from having to turn or replace the crankshaft, and replace the cam and lifters because of wear.
@@P_RO_ Great knowledgeable information Thanks for the response