Hey Matt I know a lot about these trucks, the idle issue is usually the fuel shutoff valve stuck or the rod isn’t adjusted or the spring on it. There’s an o ring on the fuel shutoff valve that can leak and suck air too. Another issue is the fuel density compensator, they get stuck and don’t meter the thinness or thickness of whatever fuel is in it. Especially if someone runs used oil mixed with diesel or gas, it’ll gum up quick. You might wanna consider draining the tank and flushing it and flushing the fuel system with just straight diesel and only run straight diesel. The fuel tank also has an electric fuel pump that comes on with the main power switch, it looked to be working in the video. There’s a fuel filter i think around the alternator area and the 2 you bled, those fuel filters look like spooled yarn haha, but might wanna change the filters also. They also make a conversion to put spin on filters on it but it’s cooler to be original but that’s an option. Same with the oil filters. Make sure you replace the o rings for the oil filters if you change them, they will leak bad. A few issues on those trucks I know of, the oil cooler housing is known for pitting out inside mainly on the top where the coolant enters the housing, it wears the housing out and leaks, it’s made of a pot metal too. That happened to mine. The brake system uses dot 5 silicone based brake fluid, only use that. The master cylinder is under the drivers side floor board under a little door on the floor. The best way to bleed that system is pressurize it, I use a pvc pipe with a hose coming off and a homemade cap connected to it, fill the pipe with brake fluid and install cap, connect regulated air and push like 12 psi and it’ll force pressure with the brake fluid and you can bleed and refill at the same time. The rubber boots on the steering axle are another issue, check those they go bad over time and crack and rot. The transmission is a 5 speed spicer transmission. The radiators are junk in those trucks, I’ve never seen one not leak, best to take to a radiator shop and resolder tanks and all. A few more tips, the left wheels are left hand thread, yeah those dipsticks are threaded kinda weird but it works, they’re great trucks and will go anywhere, they’re so low geared they’ll climb a wall with 5 tons behind it, they also have a pto winch for the front on some trucks, I think you can convert it to that if you want. You can also convert it power steering if you want. On the front there’s a little fixture below the lights, that’s blackout light, it only emits enough light to see barely to get where your going to be stealthy and not shine big headlights, I think the same for the rear taillights have a small light in them. Thanks for the videos, can’t wait to see what you do with it.
I don't have much experience of diesel troubleshooting, but my thoughts were leaning toward bad adjustment or a leak around the idle stop or fuel shut off, though that fuel density compensator sure sounds like it's a potential suspect, despite not knowing anything about them.
My father was in the US Army Transportation Corp. In 1957 he went on a mission above the Arctic Circle to supply "The DEW Line" He said that from the time they left the LST to when they departed three weeks later, they were never turned off once. He said that if he had a choice between the the Deuce or a Weasel, he would take the truck because... It could outrun the bears.
😂 My late uncle would agree ! He was a mechanic during Vietnam and would tell me stories about these military vehicles. They were built for simplicity and, most importantly, easily diagnosed in the field. Speed was not as important as power and durability in his opinion.
I grew up in Alaska worked all over the North slope of Alaska most of the dew sites had airstrips don't think there were any roads past Fairbanks unless in the winter even then don't think a deuce and a half could make it I've been brom dead horse to barrow Alaska in the early 80's seen many of the dew sites usually a small airstrip and a bunch of old fifty five gallon drums
@@plumbcrazy375 The army back then actually had their own navy. My father left Puget Sound in the WWII Navy LST 521. The army recommissioned it USAT Cape May County. The convoy of ships left with heavy equipment, Deuce's, Weasel's and as you had seen, a ton of 55 gallon drums.
I have an M35a2. It’s an amazing vehicle to say the least. I have the C-turbo (whistler). When I was going through my divorce I was daily driving it for a long time before I could afford a car. When I was really hard up I ran it on 100% waste motor oil. People told me it would hurt it running waste oil but I never had a problem. The truck still runs great to this day. You will definitely have some fun with it. Remember a M35 won’t get you anywhere fast but it will always get you there.
Matt, I spent nearly 20 of my 32 years in the Army around these. Although I was not a mechanic I did have an HHC and was signed for 10 of them. And again as a Battalion Motor Officer. And, of course, when I retired from the Army I bought one, because they are useful and very, very durable...if you know what to do, as they are different than most modern vehicles. So, yours *might* be a REO, but it is not a 1953. In 1953 there were still M135s. The M35s hadn't been fielded yet, and they were all 427 C.I. gas engines. In the 1960's they came out with the first LDS465 Engines in the M35a1s, followed a couple of years later with the addition of a turbo to clean up the coke from the exhaust (LDT465) in the M35a2's. A data plate on the passenger side of the engine, towards the front will tell you which engine you have. But it sounds like an LDT465C, a.k.a. "The Whistler". The year can be tricky because power packs and transfer cases were changed out regularly. Also, don't believe the mileage. When a speedometer broke they would replace it. No one would set the miles on the new one most of the time. So, the first place to look is on the data plate just to the left of the glove box. The top line will be the stock number. The bottom line will be the contract number. In the middle there will be a registration number and a serial number, that may be displayed on one line separated by a space, or it may be on two lines. One of the numbers will probably be 6 or 7 characters, and alphanumeric. That's the registration number. The other will be 9-13 numbers and is the serial number. The contract number line should say who manufactured it. If it is REO then it was likely a 1950's vehicle. Some did get updated to the LDT 465 in later decades. If it was built in the late 60s-70s, then it is probably a Kaiser Jeep. Kaiser Jeep was spun off to AM General in the Chrysler bankruptcy, I believe. So beginning in the late 70's through the last contract in 1987 they were made by AM General. For the Kaiser Jeep and REO vehicles you *might* be able to put in the combination of the registration ID and the Serial number into a VIN decoder. Usually the Kaiser-Jeep vehicles had a 7-digit Registration number, and the last two digits were the year. In the AM General Vehicles (which were made in the same plant as the Jeeps, just under different management) the first two digits are the year. For instance my Deuce's Registration Number is 83K658. 1983 was the year it was made. Now, cab data plates often were broken or illegible. So if it doesn't look old, its not. But you can look on the drivers side of the frame near the front wheel. The number will likely be buried under paint. And you can check the axles. Each will have its own data plate with the registration number and serial number on the front of the front pumpkin or the back of the back two. Sorry to be long winded, but I'm going to make some hard recommendations right off the bat in priority: 1) Check and replace your soft brake lines for all three axles if they look anything less than new. Its not worth guessing if they *might* be old. 2) Bleed out all the brake fluid. People will add DOT 3. But there will have been DOT 5 from the military. STRONGLY recommend you just bleed out all of what's there and replace with DOT 5. They're not compatible. 3) Bypass your FDC. It is a wearable part that was not maintained after 1995 or so. When the seals go it will leak diesel into the engine oil. Bypass is a 15-minute job. I can send you instructions if you like. 4) Replace soft fuel lines from high pressure pump on the side of the Injection Pump just below the Hydraulic Head to the secondary filters, to the hydraulic head. This is best done when bypassing the FDC. The function of the FDC was to modulate fuel so that the engine would have similar power with any of the fuels, though all but jet fuel had less energy than the diesel. It is still a multi-fuel without it. The multi-fuel part is in the design of the piston cup and compression ratio ... 22:1. 5) Re-pack your axle hubs. The Army uses "Grease, Army-Artillery" or GAA. It is animal fat. It goes rancid and should be replaced annually. Do yourself a favor and just buy a 5-gallon pail of a good moly-lithium heavy duty bearing grease, and re-pack them all. Those are most of the out-of-the-gate "Must Do's". Your radiator is separating from vibration. Just solder it back on. But under it you will find a couple of very flattened square rubber pads. If they were still good your radiator would not be coming apart. You can buy new ones cheap from BigMikesMotorpool.com. If you want to know how to do anything else, just contact me and ask. If you give these trucks any love at all, they will outlive you.
PS. There is an electric lift pump in the tank. The little box on top of the tank holds the fuse which is a 15 amp capsule type. If you can't hear it running when you turn on the power, then you may be just pulling the fuel mechanically from the high pressure mechanical pump. Sometimes that can cause hard starting. The other common issue that makes it hard starting and not idle well is fuel leaking inside the hydraulic head due to bad seals. The seals are rubber and cost about $15. These trucks sit a lot. If the rubber dries then they will leak, and you can mix fuel and oil, or you can have low pressure from the injector pump because it is bleeding fuel into the bottom part of the injector pump. To fix it you will want to remove the cover on the fuel shut-off (two screws). And remove the injector pump alignment cover from the top of the injector pump just forward of the hydraulic head (4 bolts...3/8s or 7/16ths). Then, in the cab, place your transfer case selector in the middle position between high and low, which will be neutral. You can then insert a long prying tool into the gaps in the jack-shaft between the 3053 Spicer transmission and the transfer case to rotate the engine. Rotate the engine from beneath the vehicle until the two lines in the injector pump alignment window are within 1/8th a turn from each other. Then in the fuel shutoff window you will see a small arrow at the top, and one of the teeth of the hydraulic head will have a vertical line that is usually painted red. If the two are not aligned then continue to rotate the engine until they are, ensuring that the alignment marks in the injector pump inspection window are within 1/8th a turn. If they aren't, but the HH lines are aligned, then you are probably 180 degrees out. If for any reason the HH does not EASILY lift out or return, then DON'T FORCE IT. Just rotate the engine some more using the jack shaft until the alignment is correct. Remove the injector lines. Remove the four bolts holding in the HH. Lift the HH out. There is one appx 3" diameter O-ring around the girth of the HH. There is an approx 1/2 O-ring around the base shaft. And the shut-off lever will have another 1/2 inch O-ring. If for any reason the HH does not EASILY lift out or return, then DON'T FORCE IT. Just rotate the engine some more using the jack shaft. The best video tutorial I have seen is on the "Tactical Repair" channel on TH-cam.
Bloody Hell..... Some of the replies are amazing, so many of you sure know your stuff around these. You are sitting with a cuppa, in the warm and dry telling Matt EXACTLY what is possibly wrong. That is my definition of an expert, it's good to see so many experts coming to help. I suspect there might be a lot of love for theses vehicles. Some of you know every one of them by name, don't lie, you have given yourselves away! Now, any Reliant Scimitar SE5a experts around please?
@@specialse Ah Ha, you know! One manual, full MOT a few years ago, should run this coming summer. The other, auto in dry garage, needs full body-off. Both Essex. One spare chassis in surprisingly good nick. One spare engine/gearbox. Arthritis. A difficult combination.
@@blastithenry Thanks Able. When you live or die by certain equipment, you develop a love for it. The LMTV's that replaced the M35 are alright. But mostly they are "more", meaning more comforts (AC/ATIS/Automatic Trans). So... I've spent a lot of my life in, well, less than ideal conditions. All those things that are 'easy' are just points of failure waiting to go wrong. That's why I bought one of these when I retired from the Army. It's not special or fancy. It is just durable, simple, and GOOD for what it does. I bought mine in my last deployment before retirement. I did it from Iraq. Never even saw it. But I can offer this testimony from 2003: Though the 1078's were in the production from the 90's, most combat units were being fielded from about 1997 to about 2004. In 2003 during the initial invasion, some of the Civil Affairs, Psyops, and SF units were given a choice. Their fielding was in progress. They could take their 'old' M35s or they could take then 'New' 1078s across the burm into Iraq. A buddy of mine chose the older m35 for his team. These 'Special' units were supposed to bypass the main flanking maneuvers near An Nasiriyah and Baghdad and go all the way to Kirkuk and Mosul. My buddy said that there were about 15 vehicles in his convoy who were supposed to drive deep to prevent concentration on the main effort north of Baghdad. Of them most chose the newest 1078s. My buddy chose the m35. The Iraqis had mined several areas. And they came into contact several times. He said that about half of the 1078s overheated. He said that three of the six remaining lost fluid pressure in their automatic transmissions from bullet penetration, and were abandoned or recovered later. And he said all of the M35s made it to the objective, and about 1/3 of the LMTVs. His vehicle, he said, had a bullet-hole in the transmission that caused most of the oil to leak out. But, being manual, and not depending a lot on synchro's, he was able to nurse it by driving slow, adding oil when needed, and sticking chewing gum in the holes. No joke. He said it. And I believe him. Its not a tank. Its just simple and durable. But... Its a truck. What more is needed? The rest is just vanity and weakness leaving the body.
The most important thing to know about driving one of these offroad is to keep your fingers on the *outside* of the rim of the steering wheel. Since this doesn't have power steering like the 813 series 5-tons, if you hit a bump or a rock or something, the wheel can suddenly and forcefully turn and it will break your thumb if it's in the way.
Even if you keep your booger hooks out of the ways of the spokes. It can spin fast enough hitting a bump to give you a nasty second degree friction burn
I drove the 2 1/2 in the early 70;s mostly in Europe during the Vietnam war,it was a very dependable vehicle. The sound of Matt running this deuce and a half made old memory’s that been locked up in my mind for 53 years come flooding back! Thanks Matt for the wonderful memories you unlocked!
@@jimsmith9819 I was stationed at Flegerhorst Casern Hanau Germany 70-72, 2nd of the 75th field artillery,I may have crossed paths with you Jim some time over there. Where were you stationed Jim
Here's a little trick where u will never have to Crack an injector line agai buy your self a inline electric pump put it on the return line connect pump and run until u see constant fuel running into tank start no problem been doing that of excavators bobcats tractors works like a charm
I still have the Army drivers license from 1968 for this truck. It was a beast I loved to drive, very rugged and reliable. This model was commissioned in 1950 as successor to the wartime GMC CCKW. During a Reforger maneuver here in Germany in the middle of nowhere the V-belt ripped off. With a rope and some duct tape as a makeshift belt we made it back to camp. During one of my transportation assignments I got pulled over by the MPs for a roadside check. My unit later awarded me a plaque and an off-duty day for passing the inspection 100% flawlessly. The recommendation plaque still adorns my wall.
I was in the National Guard in November 1983 to September 1991, as wheeled Combat Engineer. We had 3 engineer platoons in our company and our squads used the 5-ton dump trucks with the troop transport setups in them. Those were for each squad, so they didn't haul as much inside as this one. 1st and 2nd platoons had diesel 5 tons but as 3rd herd, we got the leftovers. We had gas 5 tons from the early 60's without even turn signals on them. The maintenance platoon also was the fuel hauling unit for the company, and since we had gas trucks, their tanker pulled a pup trailer set up with gasoline. Incidentally we still had the jeeps at that time, so we weren't the only vehicles running gas. We also had the M880 Dodge pickups which were also gas powered. Maintenance, the cooks and the admin team all had the Deuces which were exactly the same as this truck. The only issue was that, considering the fact we are in North Dakota, our trucks didn't have heaters. Ultimately the state Guard Bureau decided to switch all the Guard unit trucks to diesel so there was only one fuel needed for everything. So, our gasser trucks became diesels, and they even installed turn signals on them...still no heaters though. Our trucks got the same engine the Deuces had. The Jeeps and the Dodge pickups went away, and we finally got the Humvees. This was around 1990 to 1991. I got out of the Guard in September of 91 and did a Try 1 in 1995 then got out altogether.
Huge respect to the engineer that designed the dip stick to not pop out under battle conditions AND made it so it is not damaged when a newbie goes and tries to pry it out with a crowbar.
I noticed that too. Back in my youth, in the far south western part of Virginia, we carried on old sleeping bag in the back of the truck just for throwing over the cable. Thankfully the cable never broke, but it was cheap insurance!
Helped a friend move his a while back, I remember his girlfriend at the time was concerned that we would get going too fast and get a massive speeding ticket. We had to explain that the only way that the truck could break the speed limit was if it fell out of a plane and even then the headwind it would have might shave the speed a little. He sold it to a guy that offered five times what it was worth plus a four door square body Chevy. The part of that trade deal that makes me laugh is how much those old square body trucks are going for now.
Well you could always put it in neutral on a REALLY steep hill and it would go dangerously fast. But yeah, I NEVER rode in one during my Army career that got over 55 mph.
Beautiful Deuce. There was one of these abandoned at a small Army outpost up here in the Santa Cruz Mountains (thought they finally cleaned up that site and removed the truck about 15 to 20 years ago). There's still a bunch of abandoned military buildings and concrete buildings/ foundations hidden in the forest and barbed wire and chain link fences around the site (which was called Peanut Hill), and was a support site for Nike Missile Bases and other Military infrastructure (communications and Radar/ Microwave sites) during WWII in the Santa Cruz Mountains.
I drove and worked on those for the fire dept I was with. We had two that were water tenders. The biggest problem I had with them was fuel contamination. I suggest draining the fuel tanks and looking inside to make sure there is no corrosion. If there is there are several fuel tank interior coatings and it would be to your advantage to do that. I put dual fuel filters and a water Seperator on ours and that took care of a lot of problems. You got a very nice truck in great condition. I had a chuckle with you yanking on the oil dip stick, I did the same thing the first time I changed oil, like the first time I was told to gas up a 55 Cadilac when I worked at a gas station and couldn't find the gas filler. Check the fuel filters, always have extra filters in the cab. All the manuals are available on line also.
We had one that just quit running one day after a large grass fire. It turns out a tiny fuel return line had a 1/8 inch long crimp in it(probably from hitting a tall rock or tree branch) . It was back pressuring into the engine and not allowing fuel to flow. After fuel pumps, filter changes, and hours of troubleshooting, someone found the crimp in the line. replaced that part of the line and truck ran smooth as ever.
THIS is the kind of video that built this channel. Awesome old equipment being brought back from the dead. The excitement when it fired up! WOW Love it!
The way things are going we all are going to need trucks just like this. Every one l fine ok try my damest and buy it. I have three now and two of them from WW-2. God l love them. And fixing older construction equipment. So to repeat seems as of now we are going to need all equipment.
SInce I have been watching the content has not really changed much. We get some fixing, some building, some messing around. Its going to get even better when the shop is done and we can pull stuff in and fix a whole bunch of stuff.
Thanks for the video, Being a mechanic in the ARMY and working on them over 30 yrs ago. this took me back and I was glad i could remember what was needed and what was wrong. Thanks from an old 63 B
Hello Matt, man did I enjoy this video. I drove and fixed more Duces than I cared to count, as you were troubleshooting I was here wishing I had been there to help along. I started driving one in Dec 1979 and the last one around May 1998-99. When I saw you put a bar through the dipstick loop I was laughing and then you figured it out. There is a fording kit for these trucks that would allow you to drive it through water as deep as mid driver’s window. If you haven’t gotten to it check the fuse for the in-tank fuel pump, it’s under that small cover to the left of the full cap with a wire on it. Without this pump running they don’t idle much because the injector pump doesn’t create a lot of suction. One thing to watch for on these trucks, DO NOT LET IT ROLL BACKWARDS WHEN IN A FORWARD GEAR AND STOPPED!!! This will wind up the transfer sprag unit and if it is not released properly it can send a shock through the transmission shifter that can snap your wrist, yes, it can break your wrist. If you are driving and it kinda hops when turning STOP 🛑, put the transmission in neutral, chock the rear tires, carefully jack up the driver’s side front wheel and you will see that wheel spin backwards as the sprag releases. Any questions? Let me know, I have the books for this baby on a CD. By the way, I noticed you changed the bridge classification number from 21 to 50… Before registering ensure you have the correct serial number, I’ve seen too many with erroneous numbers on the data plate, it should be on the chasis somewhere above the rear axles and the end of the chassis, or above the front axle depending on who made it; but I can’t recall what side.
@@thJune I was once in a re-vamp team converting these from gas to diesel and installing the seatbelts modification. I love these and the old 5-ton M818 series.
It is likely a '53. Remember your revision is an "M35 A2". That means that it has the second revision with updates. In the service I started with the M35 A3, which was a Cat turbo diesel, an Allison transmission and a CTIS tire system. You could actually see where they cut the hood down the middle and widened the hood to fit the new engine. I did have some A2's until they got updated later.
My dad was a test driver for AM General and their group of vehicles. He used to pick me up at lunch with the fleet and boy did I get friends quick! That was second grade about 51 years ago. Still brings back good memories
Check the fuel line between the pump and tank to make sure it isn’t cracked and sucking air. Also running it straight on Diesel Purge a few minutes may help clear it up.
I had a 74’ before I got married. I think you do actually have one of the 50’s era trucks that went through a modernization in the late 60’s or 70’s. The hinged rear mud flaps is giveaway for that time frame. Enjoy it. Also, just for future note, there is a fuse under the housing on top of the fuel tank that sometimes likes to pop.
Ive also done the battery terminal seating the way you do for years without issue as well. Don't forget to keep some roofing nails around in case one of the terminals is loose that way you can drive it in between the lead and terminal ring to take up slack. That should get you lots of comments too lol
Matt I can't imagine how busy you are right now with the new building going up and everything else you've got going on and you still manage to put out some great content for us to enjoy . Those of us who always look forward to your videos appreciate you brother.
A piece of advice on something to look at is the shutoff like you said but if it doesn't move freely then you'll need to replace the o rings on that shaft in the pump. I have an AM General m35A2 and had the same problem with the loping and not wanting to start. Also that truck should have an electric fuel pump in the tank to prime the system. Hope this helps
Also getting rid of the Fuel Density Compnsator would be a good idea. They tend to malfunction and add fuel to engine oil. Don't want to run the bearings out
Matt, There are support groups out there. You can get together with other guys who have obsessive vehicle buying disorder. The stories people tell are endless. The frying pan wounds are among the most common.
I was on a volunteer fire department a few years back, and we built a couple of brush trucks out duce and a haves. We had a mechanic that would switch them over to strictly diesel and turn the boost up on them and they would run extremely well. It made a huge difference in there performance.
I'd be careful of doing that if not installing a pyro meter, you start cracking pistons after sustained temps of 1000°F and start melting them past 1300°F. I've done this once when I blew a head gasket, that piston was toast, lol.
Deuce and a half! (Rubbing my hands with engine start-up anticipation!) My husband was in the army back in the day (late 1980s), and you’re bringing back a lot of memories!
Many many moons ago my dad had a small trucking company.The fleet was Reo' s Diamond T's, Autocars, Internationals and later Diamond Reo's. Big heavy trucks with no power steering. I learned to drive these behemoths while delivering freight in Manhattan.
We have an AM general 5 ton convoy truck at our shop, while I can't really say very many nice things about it because it is an absolute dog the one glowing remark I can say about it is it's never failed to start. Something that very commonly sits for six eight ten months at a time, you throw the batteries in it and in 10 minutes it'll be running, coughing wheezing being angry at the world about being alive but it will be running till we stuff it in the corner again.
the lift pump is working, notice how the fuel/air keeps spraying out the bleeder when it's open and he has "main power" on. there's fuel through the filters at least, probably needs high pressure side bled. a dinosaur that age, I'm going to guess the compensator has been bypassed and kept in place for looks. but who knows.
Every branch of the Military used these vehicles. The one you have was assigned to the Army. I was 24 years Air Force, and was assigned as Operator/Instructor for the ones assigned to our units no matter where I was stationed. Never could afford one, but I loved them.
I was around these things for 20 years while in the Army. They were usually pretty reliable, but I preferred the M813 5 ton truck, for load carrying, power and added reliability. In 1972 I was in a Support Platoon with 21, 5 tons and 2 of the M35s. Ten years latter I was placed in charge of a Support Platoon with 22, 5 tons and one M35. The M813s were older than all of my drivers, and still strong. The M35 had been rebuilt at least five times since it was accepted in 1967. In 1991 while involved in Desert Storm, I had the privilege to demonstrate to some maintenance personnel how to destroy a truck with demolitions, after dragging it most of the way through Iraq. (We did have to go back a few days later and recover the pieces.) They can be good trucks, but you have to stay ahead of maintenance. Also, today finding a parts supply is sure to be a problem unless you know of a scrap yard full of doners.
Truck doesn’t know it yet,but, it has you as it’s new owner! IT WILL RUN,and RUN SAFELY. What ever it needs to achieve that it will get! Congratulations on your big baby! I love it! Once it gets into your stable,I see a new T shirt coming!❤
Matt, I drove deuce and a half and 5 ton maintenance vans in the early 1970’s while in the US Air Force. We had a vehicle shop on base where you could work on your own cars and trucks. A group of us NCO’s got together and converted a surplus USAF 5 ton van into a portable drag strip control tower and we held AHRA-sanctioned drag races on Saturdays using a taxiway on the airfield for the strip. Incoming pilots would look down at the airfield, see the rubber residue from the burnouts and couldn’t figure out how someone was landing on the 1/2 mile long taxiway. The entire track setup was portable and run with a portable generator since the taxiway was used during the week for planes. Have fun with your new toy. 🚛
Spent my year in Nam working on many of these...replace a bunch of injector pumps and injectors as a "contact team member." My last 6 months spent rebuilding injectors and pumps...loved these trucks.
On the multi-fuel, when I was in the Army we were in convoy when our Deuce ran out of fuel. The only gas station we could get to didn't have diesel, so our first sergeant had us get 5 gallons of gasoline and 3 quarts of 20w50. We put the oil in the tank first, then the gas. It took almost killing the batteries before we got the fuel lines bled enough and it finally started. I found out later that the multi-fuel engines will burn almost anything IF the viscosity/thickness is in the acceptable range. Later on, I saw deuce's run on jet fuel, kerosene, alcohol, gasoline, used motor oil, vegetable oil, used vegetable oil and a few things I have no idea what they were. But the Continental Multi-Fuel engine was supposed to be able to burn almost ANYTHING flammable that was able to be vaporized through the fuel system. Came back to add since I remembered it after I left this comment. But the Continental Multi-Fuel engine is NOT a diesel engine. It is actually a "Compression Engine" which is slightly different from a diesel engine.
Definitely a fuel starvation issue of some sort. You’ll get it squared away in no time I’m sure. That sound sure brings back some memories that’s for sure. You are correct about the turning radius, don’t drive her into the woods unless you have a really wide road to follow… ask me how I know. 🤣 Enjoy it Matt.
We had the A3s in my unit still in 2006. yes, the cabin is for 3 people, did it all the time with all our gear on. optional was a turret for extra spicy moments. From the best of my recollection, the bed should fit at least 16 in the seats, but, where we went, we didn't need no seats! We ran ours off good ol JP8, but yes, anything combustible will get you home, anything lighter than diesel will require a rebuild when you get there, though. They were beasts off road. We took our driving test in one, and we had to back it in 90 degrees into a spot the size of the truck plus only 6 inches!
I remember the army wide transition in the 90's. I know national guard units had them for a long time after, didn't realize regular army units still had them for so long.
@Sam Bernard I don't THINK they were getting deployed to oif/oef, but my memory is not clear about that. We were definitely low priority to get new trucks, as we were forward deployment in Germany, so if my memory is correct, we still had them as a rear detatchment/forward deployed unit, but when we deployed to theater I think they left us lmtv and hmtv trucks to use in theater
@@Flyinghook That makes sense. I was a ranger at Benning. Even the basic training units got the new stuff but I can understand how the army would wait for overseas units. Kinda backwards in my opinion but that's the army lol
One of the pleasures of 12 years in the USAR was driving one of these. I always wanted one too. Our Motor Sergeant worked full-time at the Army Depot on these machines. A couple tips I remember, if you only have gasoline available, dump a quart of non detergent motor oil in before you fill the tank with gas. Always let the truck idle for a few minutes before shutting down so the "whistler" can slow down. When the engine shuts down, lubrication to the turbo's bearings stops and if the turbo is still tunning it shortens the bearing life. It seems to me I remember it causing a problem with head gaskets too. One of the reasons for the unusual gear shift is it puts the shifter out from between the 3rd persons legs while on a road trip.
Looks like you got a good one. You will enjoy it. Steel soldier is a good source of tech info like the dip stick screws in, it takes DOT 5 brake fluid and takes 10 to 14 second’s for the oil pressure to come up. You did good.
That's a late 70s-80s duece comes equipped with a flame heater to assist with engine warm up, lower left hand side of the dash the 6x6 switch is underneath the steering column plus the primary fuel filter is underneath the injector pump and if you use gasoline you have to mix clean motor oil in the correct mixture but you cannot use av gas,plus that's not a continental engine it's a White- Hercules muti-fuel engine and if one axle seal leaks replace the one on the other side I know I was trained to work on them in the U.S.A.F
Back in my Army days our unit had two of these. A whistler and a NON turbo. The non turbo truck had the exhaust run along the frame rail and dump out between the axles on the right side. Fun fact, the turbo was used to reduce the visible exhaust soot and only added about FIVE horses to the power level.
When I lived in Michigan I bought a 1973 Deuce and a half. Had a winch, turbo, heater, but no power steering. I singled it out with actual single wheels and put 11:00-20's on it. Then I got a job in Colorado and sold it. The guy I sold it to sold it to someone else without letting me know it was for sale again. That was a really sweet truck, and I'd love to have it back!!!
Enjoy it Matt! I bought one of those several years ago. They are pretty unique trucks. Don't run gasoline in it. They will run, but it will not lubricate the injection pump. Some people run a mix of gas and used motor oil, I just ran Diesel. They love diesel and kerosene. Also they can be shifted from low range to high range on the fly! (At low speeds). I should have kept mine!
Awesome addition to the fleet! Clean it up and fix the idle issue, then replace seals in the turbo to clear up the smoking issue and sticker it up as a marketing tool for the channel!
The good ole deuce and a half. I was the last of a dying breed. When I went through my Army training for truck driving this gem was in the process of phasing out. We still had a few of them around, & they specifically asked who could drove a manual transmission before. I drove a 3 on the tree car, a '79 Impala. I WASN'T accustomed to driving a NON synchronized transmission, & it was a real learning curve to tame that beast! Once we got er figured out, I LOVED them things! At my first duty station, it was a sad day when the last one left the motorpool for good!
Follow up comment - I'd highly recommend that your right away change all fluids and filters and grease the entire truck. Also setup a remote master cylinder reservoir to view the fluid level (single circuit brakes). Wheel bearings and seals should be done soon after as well. Clutch adjustment is also critical along with keeping the bolts in the short stub shaft between the transmission and transfer case tight!
. New oil in the crank case may clear up the exhaust smoke. Had a Mack that sat for long time, blue smoke eventually went away as the rings reseated or the cylinder walls wore in smooth again. Take care of that piece of history and get it under a shed if possible.
I was stationed at Camp Howez, South Korea in the Western Corridor near the "Bridge of no Return" with HHC 44th Engineer's Batallion 2ID, and I was one of their motor sergeants for their small vehicle motor pool. I was the only person in our platoon who could drive a manual transmission vehicle. So our team and I spent two weeks doing exactly what you are doing, fixing up a neglected M35A2 and saved US several miles of walking back and forth to the motor pool. I miss that ol girl, she was a very reliable old truck.
Been there, done that. The Alpha and Bravo company motor pool was outside the main gate in front and Charlie was on the other side of the "hill". No flat ground on Howze. Engineer Brigade driver for CSM LEE
I like seeing someone use the safety of laying a blanket (or jacket) on top of the cables. We use to do that in the body shop over the chains we used to pull dents and frames. If a chain breaks it really deadens the power by taking away the energy if a flying chain.
Interesting truck you have there. I drove these in the army and in 1972 I bought 3 of these and turned them into tundra buggies. However ours were 1953 GM gas engines and they were automatic transmissions.
Congrats on the new truck Matt! I just sold my restored M35a2, and the one thing I will say is make sure your brakes are properly adjusted and gone through, alonng with bearings. It doesn’t take much to lose brakes in those things. Can’t wait to see more of it!
Changed a master cylinder on a similar 5 Ton M35. You probably will too. Attached to the air unit. Check fluids first. Odd location under driver's feet to access filler. Simple system, but if it fails that parking brake will not stop you. Downshifting will. Uses DOT 5 silicone based fluid.
Hi Matt and Congrats on the Deuce! I have had mine since 2010 and have a Cargo 105A Trailerter I put a Comm Shelter on and made it a camper. I have added, rebuit or replaced most everything on the truck. I fabricated A/C for it as I live in the Orlando area and you cannot drive it in the summer with out air! The are incredibly reliable and easy to work on. The exception is everything is Heavy and requires BIG tools. I put a Military Winch on the truck and it weighs 1300 lbs! Good luck, Feel free to contact me with any questions you have. I enjoy your viseos! Keep them coming!
Also! Super fun fact about most military vehicles, if you don't know how to operate them. The three lever lighting switch in the bottom left corner can be a bit of a trick. If you want to move it from anywhere but off you have to flick up the unlock lever and then move the top operation switch. The main lights you'd use would be on the right hand side stop lights and Sev (Service lights) well the functions to the left would be your blackout light functions (which will instead illuminate lights in the little black strips underneath all the marker lights on the truck) the most common place that you're probably going to operate them if you ever need them would be to just put it in SEV lights, it'll turn on your headlights marker lights and allow your turn signals to operate.
@@TheRoadhammer379 well it's a fact, because it's something that the vehicle does, and it's fun because it's something most people don't really know about and it's an interesting thing that it does
@@YurtFerguson i bought my dream ex military vehicle a few months ago, a landrover series 3 lightweight, blackout switch broke i think. so i lost all lights and horn. temp fix untill i can figure out a way to access the blade terminals on the back of it. no space to see and barely enough space to get a hand in, and you cant pull it out really. quite shit. atleast with a wire hooked up i have driving lights. gets you somewhere atleast
We called them MLVW in the Canadian Army. If you get one that runs, they are invincible. They also love ether on a cold winter day. Keep your eyes on the battery connections because some units seem to have some glitch that causes them to vibrate loose. Oh... and I hope you like the smell of diesel exhaust! That canvas is in fantastic shape but it needs to be tensioned better because when parked it traps water. When driving it traps wind.
Ah... The 'ol Deuce! One of my FAVORITE trucks!! I would LOVE to own one one day. Yes- that hardtop is QUITE rare! Note: Depending on when that truck was repainted (lets assume it was repainted a LONG time ago), that's CARC paint. Which is toxic. So make sure you wear proper PPE if/when you cut into the truck for rust repair. Oh MAN!!! When she fired up, I had the biggest smile on my face! I frakkin' LOVE these vids!!
I guarantee that's CARC. we were still using it in 2008, and I doubt they have stopped. Also, we NEVER stripped vehicles, just spray more on top, so it'll be on there THICK as!
My first job in the Army in the 80's was driving a 1950's era deuce and a half. Loved the whistling noise of the diesel engine. This one sounds just like the sound I remember from those days.
I think that I remember , I was told the odd shift pattern was designed so when you were traveling down the road, you would most likely be in high gear, having High gear up to the dash gave the poor person the middle a little more room
I have faith in your ability matt to get her running like new again if anyone can you surely can , cant wait to see more , thanks matt for your videos .
We had a lot of these in the Norwegian Army as well. They were retired late 80s / early 90s, some then were painted white in UN colors and shipped to Africa. Others were sold to private hands. Not uncommon to find these used as a farm truck in Norway. I heard they would run on almost any fuel. Thanks for the video!
Yep they will burn diesel mixed with used motor oil and oil with gas or kerosene you can mix about anything with used oil and it will burn it For instance you have 5gal of oil of unknown weight who cares lol throw couple gallon of gas or kerosene or diesel to thin it ohhh you found 2 gal of brake fluid throw it in there to lol I have seen all sorts of stuff thrown in the but oil has to be cut with a fuel for 2 reasons 1 to thin it and 2 to give it a higher burn rate so any petroleum based liquids can be ran through it with some mixing but they a thickness metering valve to help control it
Hey matt I've been thumping battery terminal for 43years now ,it scrapes through the oxide on the lead, giving you a better connection, great video bro
Sweet machine there Matt!! Just seeing you smile when it starts makes my day. Stay safe my friend!! Thanks again for taking us along on another epic adventure!
This is the truck that's the grandfather of the modern military transpiration! I'm glad it found a home with someone who can appreciate it for what it is. As a sailor I'd hope it turns better that the USS TEXAS but I get what you were going for. Keep up the great work that you do.
Love this... my dad and his hunting buddy bought a duce and a half 50 years ago when I was 15. They bought it to go moose hunting in Northern 0ntario Canada. The trips we would take to the end of the old logging roads we wouldn't see another hunter for 10 days. Those trips will be with me till I die. Have fun brother
When you lifted the canvass to see the bed, I flashed back to sitting on the left bench of this model truck on my first day in the Army in February, 1967. A drill sergeant put his face into the face of the recruit next to me and screamed at him louder than I have ever heard coming from a human being. He was as close to my right ear as he was to the face of the recruit. I jumped out of my skin!
You’re definitely the most enthusiastic TH-camr, when ever you get a vehicle or a piece of equipment your whole demeanour is like every Christmas has come early 👍🏻🏴
I grew up playing around the tooele army depot. They had decommissioned tanks on rail cars. I used to play in the sand holes from the Tooele army bomb squad who detonate munitions from ww2.
I love this truck and can’t wait to see more of it. I absolutely love how happy you get when something you’re working on runs for the first time. Keep up the great videos and thanks for letting us come along on your adventures.
Hey Matt. Yes we all want a deuce and a half just because they are beasts.That would make a cool wrecker/recovery unit. Hope you get the fuel system figured out. Thanks for posting.
Looks like fun, Matt! I think my Dad told me that he had the opportunity to drive a "duece and a half" when he was in the Army in Germany in the fifties. I love the fact that they're so rugged and simple! I also like your idea of possibly turning the truck into a recovery platform. That would fit in nicely with your fleet. Thanks for showing us your new "toy" and good luck on your deeper dive into the fuel delivery system.
i grew up next to a large campground and the owners 2 sons were my age. they had one of these. i believe it was a 1962. lemme tell ya that thing was a beast.we used to drive it through the swamps. we used to have swampwater up to our waists and never miss a beat.only problem was battery was in the cab. we just mounted it higher in the truck.
I was with the 164TH MP Company, stationed at Miesau Army Depot in Germany 1980-82. Even us MP's had to drive one of these to get from the barracks out to the Nuke Storage Area for guard duty. The good ole days.
Be sure to service the brakes and the bearings before going far in it. I saw the new axle boots so I assume you're about to get real intimate with end of the axles. The trucks are a ton of fun, you'll enjoy having it around.
My favorite part of any video when it happens is your 'victory laugh', it just breaks me up every time. So, you got a Hummer and a deuce and a half, are you slowly equipping your own private army? Foreign countries want to know.
DEFINITELY want to see an update on this. See how your engine runs after looking into the fuel system, and the brakes of course. I do love me some Deuce and a Half. Hopefully one of these days I might get one.
Soooooo did i miss something? When did matt get a new pickup? Or is it even his? Ive been noticing it last few videos and figured it was the contractors for the dream shop
I can't tell you how many miles I've clocked riding in the back of the deuce and half in my US Army days. I would agree these things are essentially bulletproof. Thanks for sharing.
More of these, yes please! Can't wait to see you tackle one in the dead of winter inside your heated shop. How great will that be, especially with the crane to move heavy stuff around.
I bought a 1966 deuce recently myself. Remember to use DOT 5 brake fluid. I’d drain all that old fuel too. Just ordered two oil and three fuel filters for mine. 22 quarts of oil required. The small primary fuel filter looks like a pain to change. You have to pull the alternator out of the way. Good luck with your deuce. Mine has a 900 gallon water tank and pump making it an awesome off-road fire truck.
Sounds like it could have a stuck injector another thing to check is make sure you check your fill filters if it got ran out of fuel water moisture could have got in the lines and it could be sucking a little bit of water up with the fuel in and making it run funky
Hey Matt I know a lot about these trucks, the idle issue is usually the fuel shutoff valve stuck or the rod isn’t adjusted or the spring on it. There’s an o ring on the fuel shutoff valve that can leak and suck air too. Another issue is the fuel density compensator, they get stuck and don’t meter the thinness or thickness of whatever fuel is in it. Especially if someone runs used oil mixed with diesel or gas, it’ll gum up quick. You might wanna consider draining the tank and flushing it and flushing the fuel system with just straight diesel and only run straight diesel. The fuel tank also has an electric fuel pump that comes on with the main power switch, it looked to be working in the video. There’s a fuel filter i think around the alternator area and the 2 you bled, those fuel filters look like spooled yarn haha, but might wanna change the filters also. They also make a conversion to put spin on filters on it but it’s cooler to be original but that’s an option. Same with the oil filters. Make sure you replace the o rings for the oil filters if you change them, they will leak bad. A few issues on those trucks I know of, the oil cooler housing is known for pitting out inside mainly on the top where the coolant enters the housing, it wears the housing out and leaks, it’s made of a pot metal too. That happened to mine. The brake system uses dot 5 silicone based brake fluid, only use that. The master cylinder is under the drivers side floor board under a little door on the floor. The best way to bleed that system is pressurize it, I use a pvc pipe with a hose coming off and a homemade cap connected to it, fill the pipe with brake fluid and install cap, connect regulated air and push like 12 psi and it’ll force pressure with the brake fluid and you can bleed and refill at the same time. The rubber boots on the steering axle are another issue, check those they go bad over time and crack and rot. The transmission is a 5 speed spicer transmission. The radiators are junk in those trucks, I’ve never seen one not leak, best to take to a radiator shop and resolder tanks and all. A few more tips, the left wheels are left hand thread, yeah those dipsticks are threaded kinda weird but it works, they’re great trucks and will go anywhere, they’re so low geared they’ll climb a wall with 5 tons behind it, they also have a pto winch for the front on some trucks, I think you can convert it to that if you want. You can also convert it power steering if you want. On the front there’s a little fixture below the lights, that’s blackout light, it only emits enough light to see barely to get where your going to be stealthy and not shine big headlights, I think the same for the rear taillights have a small light in them. Thanks for the videos, can’t wait to see what you do with it.
I'm sure if you add some photos you could publish this as "The layman's guide to the Deuce and a Half" 😄. Good reply.
Sir, excellent report. 🇬🇧
This is a great wealth of maintenance knowledge. Thank you for posting!
Dont forget they can break axles in the rear. We used these as brush fire trucks it was best truck for the woods. I Spent many hours in these trucks.
I don't have much experience of diesel troubleshooting, but my thoughts were leaning toward bad adjustment or a leak around the idle stop or fuel shut off, though that fuel density compensator sure sounds like it's a potential suspect, despite not knowing anything about them.
My father was in the US Army Transportation Corp. In 1957 he went on a mission above the Arctic Circle to supply "The DEW Line" He said that from the time they left the LST to when they departed three weeks later, they were never turned off once. He said that if he had a choice between the the Deuce or a Weasel, he would take the truck because... It could outrun the bears.
😂 My late uncle would agree ! He was a mechanic during Vietnam and would tell me stories about these military vehicles. They were built for simplicity and, most importantly, easily diagnosed in the field. Speed was not as important as power and durability in his opinion.
@@ronhart4166)
I grew up in Alaska worked all over the North slope of Alaska most of the dew sites had airstrips don't think there were any roads past Fairbanks unless in the winter even then don't think a deuce and a half could make it I've been brom dead horse to barrow Alaska in the early 80's seen many of the dew sites usually a small airstrip and a bunch of old fifty five gallon drums
I'd rather have an old vehicle like that over this modern crap
@@plumbcrazy375 The army back then actually had their own navy. My father left Puget Sound in the WWII Navy LST 521. The army recommissioned it USAT Cape May County. The convoy of ships left with heavy equipment, Deuce's, Weasel's and as you had seen, a ton of 55 gallon drums.
I have an M35a2. It’s an amazing vehicle to say the least. I have the C-turbo (whistler).
When I was going through my divorce I was daily driving it for a long time before I could afford a car.
When I was really hard up I ran it on 100% waste motor oil. People told me it would hurt it running waste oil but I never had a problem. The truck still runs great to this day. You will definitely have some fun with it.
Remember a M35 won’t get you anywhere fast but it will always get you there.
Ya I can’t see how it would hurt anything!
@@DieselCreek good thing that it runs on multi fuel
Only harm I can see running it on anything is if Elmers glue were flammable. Lmao
Matt did you get a new Red truck what happened with Blue
Yup, just wear ear plugs or muffs. The turbo noise can hurt your hearing long term.
Thanks!
Matt, I spent nearly 20 of my 32 years in the Army around these. Although I was not a mechanic I did have an HHC and was signed for 10 of them. And again as a Battalion Motor Officer. And, of course, when I retired from the Army I bought one, because they are useful and very, very durable...if you know what to do, as they are different than most modern vehicles. So, yours *might* be a REO, but it is not a 1953. In 1953 there were still M135s. The M35s hadn't been fielded yet, and they were all 427 C.I. gas engines. In the 1960's they came out with the first LDS465 Engines in the M35a1s, followed a couple of years later with the addition of a turbo to clean up the coke from the exhaust (LDT465) in the M35a2's. A data plate on the passenger side of the engine, towards the front will tell you which engine you have. But it sounds like an LDT465C, a.k.a. "The Whistler". The year can be tricky because power packs and transfer cases were changed out regularly. Also, don't believe the mileage. When a speedometer broke they would replace it. No one would set the miles on the new one most of the time. So, the first place to look is on the data plate just to the left of the glove box. The top line will be the stock number. The bottom line will be the contract number. In the middle there will be a registration number and a serial number, that may be displayed on one line separated by a space, or it may be on two lines. One of the numbers will probably be 6 or 7 characters, and alphanumeric. That's the registration number. The other will be 9-13 numbers and is the serial number. The contract number line should say who manufactured it. If it is REO then it was likely a 1950's vehicle. Some did get updated to the LDT 465 in later decades. If it was built in the late 60s-70s, then it is probably a Kaiser Jeep. Kaiser Jeep was spun off to AM General in the Chrysler bankruptcy, I believe. So beginning in the late 70's through the last contract in 1987 they were made by AM General. For the Kaiser Jeep and REO vehicles you *might* be able to put in the combination of the registration ID and the Serial number into a VIN decoder. Usually the Kaiser-Jeep vehicles had a 7-digit Registration number, and the last two digits were the year. In the AM General Vehicles (which were made in the same plant as the Jeeps, just under different management) the first two digits are the year. For instance my Deuce's Registration Number is 83K658. 1983 was the year it was made. Now, cab data plates often were broken or illegible. So if it doesn't look old, its not. But you can look on the drivers side of the frame near the front wheel. The number will likely be buried under paint. And you can check the axles. Each will have its own data plate with the registration number and serial number on the front of the front pumpkin or the back of the back two.
Sorry to be long winded, but I'm going to make some hard recommendations right off the bat in priority: 1) Check and replace your soft brake lines for all three axles if they look anything less than new. Its not worth guessing if they *might* be old. 2) Bleed out all the brake fluid. People will add DOT 3. But there will have been DOT 5 from the military. STRONGLY recommend you just bleed out all of what's there and replace with DOT 5. They're not compatible. 3) Bypass your FDC. It is a wearable part that was not maintained after 1995 or so. When the seals go it will leak diesel into the engine oil. Bypass is a 15-minute job. I can send you instructions if you like. 4) Replace soft fuel lines from high pressure pump on the side of the Injection Pump just below the Hydraulic Head to the secondary filters, to the hydraulic head. This is best done when bypassing the FDC. The function of the FDC was to modulate fuel so that the engine would have similar power with any of the fuels, though all but jet fuel had less energy than the diesel. It is still a multi-fuel without it. The multi-fuel part is in the design of the piston cup and compression ratio ... 22:1. 5) Re-pack your axle hubs. The Army uses "Grease, Army-Artillery" or GAA. It is animal fat. It goes rancid and should be replaced annually. Do yourself a favor and just buy a 5-gallon pail of a good moly-lithium heavy duty bearing grease, and re-pack them all. Those are most of the out-of-the-gate "Must Do's". Your radiator is separating from vibration. Just solder it back on. But under it you will find a couple of very flattened square rubber pads. If they were still good your radiator would not be coming apart. You can buy new ones cheap from BigMikesMotorpool.com. If you want to know how to do anything else, just contact me and ask. If you give these trucks any love at all, they will outlive you.
PS. There is an electric lift pump in the tank. The little box on top of the tank holds the fuse which is a 15 amp capsule type. If you can't hear it running when you turn on the power, then you may be just pulling the fuel mechanically from the high pressure mechanical pump. Sometimes that can cause hard starting. The other common issue that makes it hard starting and not idle well is fuel leaking inside the hydraulic head due to bad seals. The seals are rubber and cost about $15. These trucks sit a lot. If the rubber dries then they will leak, and you can mix fuel and oil, or you can have low pressure from the injector pump because it is bleeding fuel into the bottom part of the injector pump. To fix it you will want to remove the cover on the fuel shut-off (two screws). And remove the injector pump alignment cover from the top of the injector pump just forward of the hydraulic head (4 bolts...3/8s or 7/16ths). Then, in the cab, place your transfer case selector in the middle position between high and low, which will be neutral. You can then insert a long prying tool into the gaps in the jack-shaft between the 3053 Spicer transmission and the transfer case to rotate the engine. Rotate the engine from beneath the vehicle until the two lines in the injector pump alignment window are within 1/8th a turn from each other. Then in the fuel shutoff window you will see a small arrow at the top, and one of the teeth of the hydraulic head will have a vertical line that is usually painted red. If the two are not aligned then continue to rotate the engine until they are, ensuring that the alignment marks in the injector pump inspection window are within 1/8th a turn. If they aren't, but the HH lines are aligned, then you are probably 180 degrees out. If for any reason the HH does not EASILY lift out or return, then DON'T FORCE IT. Just rotate the engine some more using the jack shaft until the alignment is correct. Remove the injector lines. Remove the four bolts holding in the HH. Lift the HH out. There is one appx 3" diameter O-ring around the girth of the HH. There is an approx 1/2 O-ring around the base shaft. And the shut-off lever will have another 1/2 inch O-ring. If for any reason the HH does not EASILY lift out or return, then DON'T FORCE IT. Just rotate the engine some more using the jack shaft. The best video tutorial I have seen is on the "Tactical Repair" channel on TH-cam.
Bloody Hell..... Some of the replies are amazing, so many of you sure know your stuff around these. You are sitting with a cuppa, in the warm and dry telling Matt EXACTLY what is possibly wrong. That is my definition of an expert, it's good to see so many experts coming to help. I suspect there might be a lot of love for theses vehicles. Some of you know every one of them by name, don't lie, you have given yourselves away! Now, any Reliant Scimitar SE5a experts around please?
@@blastithenry check your ground attachment points is the answer to most SE5 questions 😁
@@specialse Ah Ha, you know! One manual, full MOT a few years ago, should run this coming summer. The other, auto in dry garage, needs full body-off. Both Essex. One spare chassis in surprisingly good nick. One spare engine/gearbox. Arthritis. A difficult combination.
@@blastithenry Thanks Able. When you live or die by certain equipment, you develop a love for it. The LMTV's that replaced the M35 are alright. But mostly they are "more", meaning more comforts (AC/ATIS/Automatic Trans). So... I've spent a lot of my life in, well, less than ideal conditions. All those things that are 'easy' are just points of failure waiting to go wrong. That's why I bought one of these when I retired from the Army. It's not special or fancy. It is just durable, simple, and GOOD for what it does. I bought mine in my last deployment before retirement. I did it from Iraq. Never even saw it. But I can offer this testimony from 2003: Though the 1078's were in the production from the 90's, most combat units were being fielded from about 1997 to about 2004. In 2003 during the initial invasion, some of the Civil Affairs, Psyops, and SF units were given a choice. Their fielding was in progress. They could take their 'old' M35s or they could take then 'New' 1078s across the burm into Iraq. A buddy of mine chose the older m35 for his team. These 'Special' units were supposed to bypass the main flanking maneuvers near An Nasiriyah and Baghdad and go all the way to Kirkuk and Mosul. My buddy said that there were about 15 vehicles in his convoy who were supposed to drive deep to prevent concentration on the main effort north of Baghdad. Of them most chose the newest 1078s. My buddy chose the m35. The Iraqis had mined several areas. And they came into contact several times. He said that about half of the 1078s overheated. He said that three of the six remaining lost fluid pressure in their automatic transmissions from bullet penetration, and were abandoned or recovered later. And he said all of the M35s made it to the objective, and about 1/3 of the LMTVs. His vehicle, he said, had a bullet-hole in the transmission that caused most of the oil to leak out. But, being manual, and not depending a lot on synchro's, he was able to nurse it by driving slow, adding oil when needed, and sticking chewing gum in the holes. No joke. He said it. And I believe him. Its not a tank. Its just simple and durable. But... Its a truck. What more is needed? The rest is just vanity and weakness leaving the body.
The most important thing to know about driving one of these offroad is to keep your fingers on the *outside* of the rim of the steering wheel. Since this doesn't have power steering like the 813 series 5-tons, if you hit a bump or a rock or something, the wheel can suddenly and forcefully turn and it will break your thumb if it's in the way.
AMEN
Is it possible to put power steering in?
that can still happen in a vehicle that has power steering
My wife will still tell you “thumbs outta the wheel” when offroading.
Even if you keep your booger hooks out of the ways of the spokes. It can spin fast enough hitting a bump to give you a nasty second degree friction burn
I drove the 2 1/2 in the early 70;s mostly in Europe during the Vietnam war,it was a very dependable vehicle. The sound of Matt running this deuce and a half made old memory’s that been locked up in my mind for 53 years come flooding back! Thanks Matt for the wonderful memories you unlocked!
Thank you for your service!
memories
“Drove it in Europe during the Vietnam war.” Words of wisdom
Texas WW i drove a deuce in Germany in 70/71 but my assigned vehicle was an M113
@@jimsmith9819 I was stationed at Flegerhorst Casern Hanau Germany 70-72, 2nd of the 75th field artillery,I may have crossed paths with you Jim some time over there. Where were you stationed Jim
Here's a little trick where u will never have to Crack an injector line agai buy your self a inline electric pump put it on the return line connect pump and run until u see constant fuel running into tank start no problem been doing that of excavators bobcats tractors works like a charm
I still have the Army drivers license from 1968 for this truck. It was a beast I loved to drive, very rugged and reliable. This model was commissioned in 1950 as successor to the wartime GMC CCKW. During a Reforger maneuver here in Germany in the middle of nowhere the V-belt ripped off. With a rope and some duct tape as a makeshift belt we made it back to camp. During one of my transportation assignments I got pulled over by the MPs for a roadside check. My unit later awarded me a plaque and an off-duty day for passing the inspection 100% flawlessly. The recommendation plaque still adorns my wall.
what year were you in Germany reforger manuevers 1984-85 ?
@@deanyanko3326 No, i served from 1968 to 1975
we had reforger in 1984 ?
Drove a deuce and half in Vietnam.. Beat the hell out of it. Reliable.
I was in Germany too…I thought the exercise was called Autumn Forge?
Don’t park it in the woods Matt, come springtime you’ll never find it 😲🍻
Dang it...I was about to say the same thing!
@@fyreantz2555 sorry, I couldn’t allow that 🤷🏻♂️🍻
😂
ha ha ha ha ha so funny
No problem just look for the yellow door!
I was in the National Guard in November 1983 to September 1991, as wheeled Combat Engineer. We had 3 engineer platoons in our company and our squads used the 5-ton dump trucks with the troop transport setups in them. Those were for each squad, so they didn't haul as much inside as this one.
1st and 2nd platoons had diesel 5 tons but as 3rd herd, we got the leftovers. We had gas 5 tons from the early 60's without even turn signals on them.
The maintenance platoon also was the fuel hauling unit for the company, and since we had gas trucks, their tanker pulled a pup trailer set up with gasoline. Incidentally we still had the jeeps at that time, so we weren't the only vehicles running gas. We also had the M880 Dodge pickups which were also gas powered. Maintenance, the cooks and the admin team all had the Deuces which were exactly the same as this truck. The only issue was that, considering the fact we are in North Dakota, our trucks didn't have heaters.
Ultimately the state Guard Bureau decided to switch all the Guard unit trucks to diesel so there was only one fuel needed for everything. So, our gasser trucks became diesels, and they even installed turn signals on them...still no heaters though. Our trucks got the same engine the Deuces had. The Jeeps and the Dodge pickups went away, and we finally got the Humvees. This was around 1990 to 1991. I got out of the Guard in September of 91 and did a Try 1 in 1995 then got out altogether.
Huge respect to the engineer that designed the dip stick to not pop out under battle conditions AND made it so it is not damaged when a newbie goes and tries to pry it out with a crowbar.
😆...
It's threaded
Was I the only one yelling you need to turn the dam thing lol
@@juliaharris1455 nope, pmcs lol
Mistakes were made prior.
Glad to see safety was on your mind when loading the behemoth (coat over the cable)
I noticed that too. Back in my youth, in the far south western part of Virginia, we carried on old sleeping bag in the back of the truck just for throwing over the cable. Thankfully the cable never broke, but it was cheap insurance!
Time stamp, I missed it.
Helped a friend move his a while back, I remember his girlfriend at the time was concerned that we would get going too fast and get a massive speeding ticket. We had to explain that the only way that the truck could break the speed limit was if it fell out of a plane and even then the headwind it would have might shave the speed a little.
He sold it to a guy that offered five times what it was worth plus a four door square body Chevy. The part of that trade deal that makes me laugh is how much those old square body trucks are going for now.
Well you could always put it in neutral on a REALLY steep hill and it would go dangerously fast. But yeah, I NEVER rode in one during my Army career that got over 55 mph.
Beautiful Deuce. There was one of these abandoned at a small Army outpost up here in the Santa Cruz Mountains (thought they finally cleaned up that site and removed the truck about 15 to 20 years ago). There's still a bunch of abandoned military buildings and concrete buildings/ foundations hidden in the forest and barbed wire and chain link fences around the site (which was called Peanut Hill), and was a support site for Nike Missile Bases and other Military infrastructure (communications and Radar/ Microwave sites) during WWII in the Santa Cruz Mountains.
Know the area well. Only live about five miles from there. During the time it was active, it was well protected.
Always love to see you stick your head out and laugh and smile when you finally get those engines to start. Love watching you work!
I drove and worked on those for the fire dept I was with. We had two that were water tenders. The biggest problem I had with them was fuel contamination. I suggest draining the fuel tanks and looking inside to make sure there is no corrosion. If there is there are several fuel tank interior coatings and it would be to your advantage to do that. I put dual fuel filters and a water Seperator on ours and that took care of a lot of problems. You got a very nice truck in great condition. I had a chuckle with you yanking on the oil dip stick, I did the same thing the first time I changed oil, like the first time I was told to gas up a 55 Cadilac when I worked at a gas station and couldn't find the gas filler. Check the fuel filters, always have extra filters in the cab. All the manuals are available on line also.
We had one that just quit running one day after a large grass fire. It turns out a tiny fuel return line had a 1/8 inch long crimp in it(probably from hitting a tall rock or tree branch) . It was back pressuring into the engine and not allowing fuel to flow. After fuel pumps, filter changes, and hours of troubleshooting, someone found the crimp in the line. replaced that part of the line and truck ran smooth as ever.
It felt like you could pull a mountain in first gear we used to say. I'm sure it was not as strong as it felt.
THIS is the kind of video that built this channel. Awesome old equipment being brought back from the dead. The excitement when it fired up! WOW Love it!
The way things are going we all are going to need trucks just like this. Every one l fine ok try my damest and buy it. I have three now and two of them from WW-2. God l love them. And fixing older construction equipment. So to repeat seems as of now we are going to need all equipment.
SInce I have been watching the content has not really changed much. We get some fixing, some building, some messing around. Its going to get even better when the shop is done and we can pull stuff in and fix a whole bunch of stuff.
I am not a mechanic but enjoy watching you troubleshoot the old equipment. Never too old to learn something about engines. Thanks.
Thanks for the video, Being a mechanic in the ARMY and working on them over 30 yrs ago. this took me back and I was glad i could remember what was needed and what was wrong. Thanks from an old 63 B
Hello Matt, man did I enjoy this video. I drove and fixed more Duces than I cared to count, as you were troubleshooting I was here wishing I had been there to help along. I started driving one in Dec 1979 and the last one around May 1998-99. When I saw you put a bar through the dipstick loop I was laughing and then you figured it out. There is a fording kit for these trucks that would allow you to drive it through water as deep as mid driver’s window. If you haven’t gotten to it check the fuse for the in-tank fuel pump, it’s under that small cover to the left of the full cap with a wire on it. Without this pump running they don’t idle much because the injector pump doesn’t create a lot of suction. One thing to watch for on these trucks, DO NOT LET IT ROLL BACKWARDS WHEN IN A FORWARD GEAR AND STOPPED!!! This will wind up the transfer sprag unit and if it is not released properly it can send a shock through the transmission shifter that can snap your wrist, yes, it can break your wrist. If you are driving and it kinda hops when turning STOP 🛑, put the transmission in neutral, chock the rear tires, carefully jack up the driver’s side front wheel and you will see that wheel spin backwards as the sprag releases. Any questions? Let me know, I have the books for this baby on a CD.
By the way, I noticed you changed the bridge classification number from 21 to 50…
Before registering ensure you have the correct serial number, I’ve seen too many with erroneous numbers on the data plate, it should be on the chasis somewhere above the rear axles and the end of the chassis, or above the front axle depending on who made it; but I can’t recall what side.
Damn good knowledge right here my dude!
@@thJune I was once in a re-vamp team converting these from gas to diesel and installing the seatbelts modification. I love these and the old 5-ton M818 series.
It is likely a '53. Remember your revision is an "M35 A2". That means that it has the second revision with updates. In the service I started with the M35 A3, which was a Cat turbo diesel, an Allison transmission and a CTIS tire system. You could actually see where they cut the hood down the middle and widened the hood to fit the new engine. I did have some A2's until they got updated later.
My dad was a test driver for AM General and their group of vehicles. He used to pick me up at lunch with the fleet and boy did I get friends quick! That was second grade about 51 years ago. Still brings back good memories
Check the fuel line between the pump and tank to make sure it isn’t cracked and sucking air. Also running it straight on Diesel Purge a few minutes may help clear it up.
I concur.
Yep.
.
Had a friend with the same problem
Yeh, definitely a fuel problem, would be best to check the whole system for water in the tank and the filters too.
I had a 74’ before I got married. I think you do actually have one of the 50’s era trucks that went through a modernization in the late 60’s or 70’s. The hinged rear mud flaps is giveaway for that time frame. Enjoy it. Also, just for future note, there is a fuse under the housing on top of the fuel tank that sometimes likes to pop.
We had these trucks in the Greek Army back in 1988 🙂 They are undead! I believe some of them are still in use today. Cheers for the video!
Ive also done the battery terminal seating the way you do for years without issue as well. Don't forget to keep some roofing nails around in case one of the terminals is loose that way you can drive it in between the lead and terminal ring to take up slack. That should get you lots of comments too lol
Matt I can't imagine how busy you are right now with the new building going up and everything else you've got going on and you still manage to put out some great content for us to enjoy . Those of us who always look forward to your videos appreciate you brother.
A piece of advice on something to look at is the shutoff like you said but if it doesn't move freely then you'll need to replace the o rings on that shaft in the pump. I have an AM General m35A2 and had the same problem with the loping and not wanting to start. Also that truck should have an electric fuel pump in the tank to prime the system. Hope this helps
Also getting rid of the Fuel Density Compnsator would be a good idea. They tend to malfunction and add fuel to engine oil. Don't want to run the bearings out
@@Whitebuffalo44km
Matt, There are support groups out there. You can get together with other guys who have obsessive vehicle buying disorder. The stories people tell are endless. The frying pan wounds are among the most common.
This really took me back! I was Army 75 -78 and Army Reserve 80-86. I was never in combat so I had a lot of fun driving Deuce and a halfs.
I was on a volunteer fire department a few years back, and we built a couple of brush trucks out duce and a haves. We had a mechanic that would switch them over to strictly diesel and turn the boost up on them and they would run extremely well. It made a huge difference in there performance.
Thanks for serving your community. Everyone needs folks like you.
@@freemansgarage Thank you
I'd be careful of doing that if not installing a pyro meter, you start cracking pistons after sustained temps of 1000°F and start melting them past 1300°F. I've done this once when I blew a head gasket, that piston was toast, lol.
Deuce and a half! (Rubbing my hands with engine start-up anticipation!) My husband was in the army back in the day (late 1980s), and you’re bringing back a lot of memories!
Check the Data Plate that's above or near the passenger door for the year, or depot rebuilt year.
Many many moons ago my dad had a small trucking company.The fleet was Reo' s Diamond T's, Autocars, Internationals and later Diamond Reo's. Big heavy trucks with no power steering. I learned to drive these behemoths while delivering freight in Manhattan.
We have an AM general 5 ton convoy truck at our shop, while I can't really say very many nice things about it because it is an absolute dog the one glowing remark I can say about it is it's never failed to start. Something that very commonly sits for six eight ten months at a time, you throw the batteries in it and in 10 minutes it'll be running, coughing wheezing being angry at the world about being alive but it will be running till we stuff it in the corner again.
Hi Matt. I have the same truck. Make sure your lift pump is working in the fuel tank it’s pretty important on these trucks. Great video!
the lift pump is working, notice how the fuel/air keeps spraying out the bleeder when it's open and he has "main power" on. there's fuel through the filters at least, probably needs high pressure side bled. a dinosaur that age, I'm going to guess the compensator has been bypassed and kept in place for looks. but who knows.
These trucks will actually run with a working lift pump as long as it does not lose prime
Fuel pump on these is about 2in up from bottom. You can adjust them down.
Every branch of the Military used these vehicles. The one you have was assigned to the Army. I was 24 years Air Force, and was assigned as Operator/Instructor for the ones assigned to our units no matter where I was stationed. Never could afford one, but I loved them.
Thank you for your service.
Thank You Kindly for your Service, Lord Willing You find the Means for that Two & a Half Ton One of these Days.
Shouldn't there be a service year for this particular truck on the nameplate?
@@JWimpy It was my pleasure. Thank You for your support.
I was around these things for 20 years while in the Army. They were usually pretty reliable, but I preferred the M813 5 ton truck, for load carrying, power and added reliability. In 1972 I was in a Support Platoon with 21, 5 tons and 2 of the M35s. Ten years latter I was placed in charge of a Support Platoon with 22, 5 tons and one M35. The M813s were older than all of my drivers, and still strong. The M35 had been rebuilt at least five times since it was accepted in 1967. In 1991 while involved in Desert Storm, I had the privilege to demonstrate to some maintenance personnel how to destroy a truck with demolitions, after dragging it most of the way through Iraq. (We did have to go back a few days later and recover the pieces.) They can be good trucks, but you have to stay ahead of maintenance. Also, today finding a parts supply is sure to be a problem unless you know of a scrap yard full of doners.
Truck doesn’t know it yet,but, it has you as it’s new owner! IT WILL RUN,and RUN SAFELY. What ever it needs to achieve that it will get!
Congratulations on your big baby! I love it! Once it gets into your stable,I see a new T shirt coming!❤
Matt, I drove deuce and a half and 5 ton maintenance vans in the early 1970’s while in the US Air Force. We had a vehicle shop on base where you could work on your own cars and trucks. A group of us NCO’s got together and converted a surplus USAF 5 ton van into a portable drag strip control tower and we held AHRA-sanctioned drag races on Saturdays using a taxiway on the airfield for the strip. Incoming pilots would look down at the airfield, see the rubber residue from the burnouts and couldn’t figure out how someone was landing on the 1/2 mile long taxiway. The entire track setup was portable and run with a portable generator since the taxiway was used during the week for planes. Have fun with your new toy. 🚛
Spent my year in Nam working on many of these...replace a bunch of injector pumps and injectors as a "contact team member." My last 6 months spent rebuilding injectors and pumps...loved these trucks.
I like to say a HUGE thank you sir for your service! 🙂
My Dad is an Aussie Viet Vet, thank you for your service.
On the multi-fuel, when I was in the Army we were in convoy when our Deuce ran out of fuel. The only gas station we could get to didn't have diesel, so our first sergeant had us get 5 gallons of gasoline and 3 quarts of 20w50. We put the oil in the tank first, then the gas. It took almost killing the batteries before we got the fuel lines bled enough and it finally started.
I found out later that the multi-fuel engines will burn almost anything IF the viscosity/thickness is in the acceptable range. Later on, I saw deuce's run on jet fuel, kerosene, alcohol, gasoline, used motor oil, vegetable oil, used vegetable oil and a few things I have no idea what they were. But the Continental Multi-Fuel engine was supposed to be able to burn almost ANYTHING flammable that was able to be vaporized through the fuel system.
Came back to add since I remembered it after I left this comment. But the Continental Multi-Fuel engine is NOT a diesel engine. It is actually a "Compression Engine" which is slightly different from a diesel engine.
Definitely a fuel starvation issue of some sort. You’ll get it squared away in no time I’m sure. That sound sure brings back some memories that’s for sure. You are correct about the turning radius, don’t drive her into the woods unless you have a really wide road to follow… ask me how I know. 🤣 Enjoy it Matt.
OMG! $3,000.00 is CHEAP! What a DEAL!!!
Especially since he had it on FB marketplace for 2 years listed at 12k😂
We had the A3s in my unit still in 2006. yes, the cabin is for 3 people, did it all the time with all our gear on. optional was a turret for extra spicy moments. From the best of my recollection, the bed should fit at least 16 in the seats, but, where we went, we didn't need no seats! We ran ours off good ol JP8, but yes, anything combustible will get you home, anything lighter than diesel will require a rebuild when you get there, though. They were beasts off road. We took our driving test in one, and we had to back it in 90 degrees into a spot the size of the truck plus only 6 inches!
I remember the army wide transition in the 90's. I know national guard units had them for a long time after, didn't realize regular army units still had them for so long.
@Sam Bernard I don't THINK they were getting deployed to oif/oef, but my memory is not clear about that. We were definitely low priority to get new trucks, as we were forward deployment in Germany, so if my memory is correct, we still had them as a rear detatchment/forward deployed unit, but when we deployed to theater I think they left us lmtv and hmtv trucks to use in theater
@@Flyinghook That makes sense. I was a ranger at Benning. Even the basic training units got the new stuff but I can understand how the army would wait for overseas units. Kinda backwards in my opinion but that's the army lol
@@SamTheHikingMan lol, right, just imagine unrest in europe, and the US army showing up in the same trucks we fought WW2 in...
One of the pleasures of 12 years in the USAR was driving one of these. I always wanted one too. Our Motor Sergeant worked full-time at the Army Depot on these machines. A couple tips I remember, if you only have gasoline available, dump a quart of non detergent motor oil in before you fill the tank with gas. Always let the truck idle for a few minutes before shutting down so the "whistler" can slow down. When the engine shuts down, lubrication to the turbo's bearings stops and if the turbo is still tunning it shortens the bearing life. It seems to me I remember it causing a problem with head gaskets too.
One of the reasons for the unusual gear shift is it puts the shifter out from between the 3rd persons legs while on a road trip.
Looks like you got a good one. You will enjoy it. Steel soldier is a good source of tech info like the dip stick screws in, it takes DOT 5 brake fluid and takes 10 to 14 second’s for the oil pressure to come up. You did good.
That's a late 70s-80s duece comes equipped with a flame heater to assist with engine warm up, lower left hand side of the dash the 6x6 switch is underneath the steering column plus the primary fuel filter is underneath the injector pump and if you use gasoline you have to mix clean motor oil in the correct mixture but you cannot use av gas,plus that's not a continental engine it's a White- Hercules muti-fuel engine and if one axle seal leaks replace the one on the other side I know I was trained to work on them in the U.S.A.F
Back in my Army days our unit had two of these. A whistler and a NON turbo. The non turbo truck had the exhaust run along the frame rail and dump out between the axles on the right side. Fun fact, the turbo was used to reduce the visible exhaust soot and only added about FIVE horses to the power level.
...But likely added significantly more torque than the 5 horsepower (easily a couple hundred Pound Feet at a given [higher] engine RPM).
The turbo.models were more driveable
Hey, the old hand-cranked windows!
Truck body looks great. But it's a real exhaust belcher.
When I lived in Michigan I bought a 1973 Deuce and a half. Had a winch, turbo, heater, but no power steering. I singled it out with actual single wheels and put 11:00-20's on it. Then I got a job in Colorado and sold it. The guy I sold it to sold it to someone else without letting me know it was for sale again. That was a really sweet truck, and I'd love to have it back!!!
Enjoy it Matt! I bought one of those several years ago. They are pretty unique trucks. Don't run gasoline in it. They will run, but it will not lubricate the injection pump. Some people run a mix of gas and used motor oil, I just ran Diesel. They love diesel and kerosene. Also they can be shifted from low range to high range on the fly! (At low speeds). I should have kept mine!
Awesome addition to the fleet! Clean it up and fix the idle issue, then replace seals in the turbo to clear up the smoking issue and sticker it up as a marketing tool for the channel!
The good ole deuce and a half. I was the last of a dying breed. When I went through my Army training for truck driving this gem was in the process of phasing out. We still had a few of them around, & they specifically asked who could drove a manual transmission before. I drove a 3 on the tree car, a '79 Impala. I WASN'T accustomed to driving a NON synchronized transmission, & it was a real learning curve to tame that beast! Once we got er figured out, I LOVED them things! At my first duty station, it was a sad day when the last one left the motorpool for good!
Keep the cammo, Finda rollback and put it on
Return the truck to repurposed usefulness wanna see more please
I would maybe change the fuel filters who knows how long they been in there full of algae. Nice truck. Good find Matt. Look forward to the next video.
Follow up comment - I'd highly recommend that your right away change all fluids and filters and grease the entire truck. Also setup a remote master cylinder reservoir to view the fluid level (single circuit brakes). Wheel bearings and seals should be done soon after as well. Clutch adjustment is also critical along with keeping the bolts in the short stub shaft between the transmission and transfer case tight!
YES bingo. My thoughts exactly. Maintenance 101. Smh.
. New oil in the crank case may clear up the exhaust smoke. Had a Mack that sat for long time, blue smoke eventually went away as the rings reseated or the cylinder walls wore in smooth again. Take care of that piece of history and get it under a shed if possible.
I love the internet
I was stationed at Camp Howez, South Korea in the Western Corridor near the "Bridge of no Return" with HHC 44th Engineer's Batallion 2ID, and I was one of their motor sergeants for their small vehicle motor pool. I was the only person in our platoon who could drive a manual transmission vehicle. So our team and I spent two weeks doing exactly what you are doing, fixing up a neglected M35A2 and saved US several miles of walking back and forth to the motor pool. I miss that ol girl, she was a very reliable old truck.
Been there, done that. The Alpha and Bravo company motor pool was outside the main gate in front and Charlie was on the other side of the "hill". No flat ground on Howze.
Engineer Brigade driver for CSM LEE
How did nobody else who was assigned to the motor pool of all places end up learning to drive a stick? It's not rocket science 😂
I like seeing someone use the safety of laying a blanket (or jacket) on top of the cables. We use to do that in the body shop over the chains we used to pull dents and frames. If a chain breaks it really deadens the power by taking away the energy if a flying chain.
Meant to mention…….The joy that you bring to so many people is truly heart warming. Bless you.
I love the new truck! And I'm happy that you finally found the time to catch a break from the workshop-construction stuff :)
Interesting truck you have there. I drove these in the army and in 1972 I bought 3 of these and turned them into tundra buggies. However ours were 1953 GM gas engines and they were automatic transmissions.
I'm not used to you staying so clean throughout and entire episode! Well done man
Congrats on the new truck Matt! I just sold my restored M35a2, and the one thing I will say is make sure your brakes are properly adjusted and gone through, alonng with bearings. It doesn’t take much to lose brakes in those things. Can’t wait to see more of it!
Changed a master cylinder on a similar 5 Ton M35. You probably will too. Attached to the air unit. Check fluids first. Odd location under driver's feet to access filler. Simple system, but if it fails that parking brake will not stop you. Downshifting will. Uses DOT 5 silicone based fluid.
Hi Matt and Congrats on the Deuce!
I have had mine since 2010 and have a Cargo 105A Trailerter I put a Comm Shelter on and made it a camper.
I have added, rebuit or replaced most everything on the truck. I fabricated A/C for it as I live in the Orlando area and you cannot drive it in the summer with out air! The are incredibly reliable and easy to work on. The exception is everything is Heavy and requires BIG tools. I put a Military Winch on the truck and it weighs 1300 lbs!
Good luck, Feel free to contact me with any questions you have. I enjoy your viseos!
Keep them coming!
Love seeing people bring older military trucks and vehicles back to life. Great job and look forward to seeing more.
Also! Super fun fact about most military vehicles, if you don't know how to operate them. The three lever lighting switch in the bottom left corner can be a bit of a trick. If you want to move it from anywhere but off you have to flick up the unlock lever and then move the top operation switch. The main lights you'd use would be on the right hand side stop lights and Sev (Service lights) well the functions to the left would be your blackout light functions (which will instead illuminate lights in the little black strips underneath all the marker lights on the truck) the most common place that you're probably going to operate them if you ever need them would be to just put it in SEV lights, it'll turn on your headlights marker lights and allow your turn signals to operate.
Why does everything have to be a fun fact, or super fun fact? Just curious as I see a lot of people use this terminology.
@@TheRoadhammer379 well it's a fact, because it's something that the vehicle does, and it's fun because it's something most people don't really know about and it's an interesting thing that it does
@@YurtFerguson i bought my dream ex military vehicle a few months ago, a landrover series 3 lightweight, blackout switch broke i think. so i lost all lights and horn. temp fix untill i can figure out a way to access the blade terminals on the back of it. no space to see and barely enough space to get a hand in, and you cant pull it out really. quite shit. atleast with a wire hooked up i have driving lights. gets you somewhere atleast
We called them MLVW in the Canadian Army. If you get one that runs, they are invincible. They also love ether on a cold winter day. Keep your eyes on the battery connections because some units seem to have some glitch that causes them to vibrate loose. Oh... and I hope you like the smell of diesel exhaust!
That canvas is in fantastic shape but it needs to be tensioned better because when parked it traps water. When driving it traps wind.
Ah... The 'ol Deuce! One of my FAVORITE trucks!! I would LOVE to own one one day. Yes- that hardtop is QUITE rare! Note: Depending on when that truck was repainted (lets assume it was repainted a LONG time ago), that's CARC paint. Which is toxic. So make sure you wear proper PPE if/when you cut into the truck for rust repair.
Oh MAN!!! When she fired up, I had the biggest smile on my face! I frakkin' LOVE these vids!!
I guarantee that's CARC. we were still using it in 2008, and I doubt they have stopped. Also, we NEVER stripped vehicles, just spray more on top, so it'll be on there THICK as!
Mmm the good stuff!
@@Flyinghook They still do and we can buy the stuff.
Can’t imagine what that peg leg Canuckistanian would’ve done if he’d been there when you got it running!! Bush Latte all the way!
@@LOCOLAPTOP that doesn't surprise me
My first Army MOS was 63H, and I spent several years pulling these beasts apart and rebuilding them. Gotta love that LDS 465 motor!
My first job in the Army in the 80's was driving a 1950's era deuce and a half. Loved the whistling noise of the diesel engine. This one sounds just like the sound I remember from those days.
I think that I remember , I was told the odd shift pattern was designed so when you were traveling down the road, you would most likely be in high gear, having High gear up to the dash gave the poor person the middle a little more room
I have faith in your ability matt to get her running like new again if anyone can you surely can , cant wait to see more , thanks matt for your videos .
We had a lot of these in the Norwegian Army as well. They were retired late 80s / early 90s, some then were painted white in UN colors and shipped to Africa. Others were sold to private hands. Not uncommon to find these used as a farm truck in Norway. I heard they would run on almost any fuel. Thanks for the video!
Yep they will burn diesel mixed with used motor oil and oil with gas or kerosene you can mix about anything with used oil and it will burn it For instance you have 5gal of oil of unknown weight who cares lol throw couple gallon of gas or kerosene or diesel to thin it ohhh you found 2 gal of brake fluid throw it in there to lol I have seen all sorts of stuff thrown in the but oil has to be cut with a fuel for 2 reasons 1 to thin it and 2 to give it a higher burn rate so any petroleum based liquids can be ran through it with some mixing but they a thickness metering valve to help control it
Hey matt I've been thumping battery terminal for 43years now ,it scrapes through the oxide on the lead, giving you a better connection, great video bro
Surprised how much I anticipate these videos now, hope you had a pleasant thanksgiving. Great work and stay oily!
Sweet machine there Matt!! Just seeing you smile when it starts makes my day. Stay safe my friend!! Thanks again for taking us along on another epic adventure!
This is the truck that's the grandfather of the modern military transpiration! I'm glad it found a home with someone who can appreciate it for what it is. As a sailor I'd hope it turns better that the USS TEXAS but I get what you were going for. Keep up the great work that you do.
Love this... my dad and his hunting buddy bought a duce and a half 50 years ago when I was 15. They bought it to go moose hunting in Northern 0ntario Canada. The trips we would take to the end of the old logging roads we wouldn't see another hunter for 10 days. Those trips will be with me till I die. Have fun brother
Of all the vehicles I drove in the Army and Navy my favorite was the deuce and a half!!!! Very distinctive sound. Very strong.
When you lifted the canvass to see the bed, I flashed back to sitting on the left bench of this model truck on my first day in the Army in February, 1967. A drill sergeant put his face into the face of the recruit next to me and screamed at him louder than I have ever heard coming from a human being. He was as close to my right ear as he was to the face of the recruit. I jumped out of my skin!
You’re definitely the most enthusiastic TH-camr, when ever you get a vehicle or a piece of equipment your whole demeanour is like every Christmas has come early 👍🏻🏴
I grew up playing around the tooele army depot. They had decommissioned tanks on rail cars. I used to play in the sand holes from the Tooele army bomb squad who detonate munitions from ww2.
I love this truck and can’t wait to see more of it. I absolutely love how happy you get when something you’re working on runs for the first time. Keep up the great videos and thanks for letting us come along on your adventures.
Hey Matt. Yes we all want a deuce and a half just because they are beasts.That would make a cool wrecker/recovery unit. Hope you get the fuel system figured out. Thanks for posting.
Looks like fun, Matt! I think my Dad told me that he had the opportunity to drive a "duece and a half" when he was in the Army in Germany in the fifties. I love the fact that they're so rugged and simple! I also like your idea of possibly turning the truck into a recovery platform. That would fit in nicely with your fleet. Thanks for showing us your new "toy" and good luck on your deeper dive into the fuel delivery system.
i grew up next to a large campground and the owners 2 sons were my age. they had one of these. i believe it was a 1962. lemme tell ya that thing was a beast.we used to drive it through the swamps. we used to have swampwater up to our waists and never miss a beat.only problem was battery was in the cab. we just mounted it higher in the truck.
I, being ex-army, really enjoyed the video. I've driven one of those and this brought back memories.
I was with the 164TH MP Company, stationed at Miesau Army Depot in Germany 1980-82. Even us MP's had to drive one of these to get from the barracks out to the Nuke Storage Area for guard duty. The good ole days.
I’d say that hunting on idle sounds like a bad injector. Try doing a pop test on them and see if one is weeping slightly. Great video once again.
Smart tip, he should do that . . . .
Be sure to service the brakes and the bearings before going far in it. I saw the new axle boots so I assume you're about to get real intimate with end of the axles. The trucks are a ton of fun, you'll enjoy having it around.
I don't even wanna think about doing em . Real pain in the ass, better to swap to newer u joint style front axle shafts
Drove one in Germany in the mid-60's everything between autobahn in convoy to cross-country in training areas. Was a '63, and a real kick to drive.
Looks like one hell of a plow truck Matt. Great addition to your fleet again. 👍👍🍺🍺
and he decently likes sniff of ether 🤪 (it's a keeper)
When I was in Nam, '69 they were old. Not powerful . Good gear spread. Use only DIESEL. 22YRS USN SEABEES ret.
My favorite part of any video when it happens is your 'victory laugh', it just breaks me up every time. So, you got a Hummer and a deuce and a half, are you slowly equipping your own private army? Foreign countries want to know.
The same for me!
Next up "I bought the CHEAPEST tank I could find"
@@andythekitsune I like this one!
DEFINITELY want to see an update on this. See how your engine runs after looking into the fuel system, and the brakes of course. I do love me some Deuce and a Half. Hopefully one of these days I might get one.
Soooooo did i miss something? When did matt get a new pickup? Or is it even his? Ive been noticing it last few videos and figured it was the contractors for the dream shop
It’s mine. Video coming soon!
@@DieselCreek sweet! Can't wait!
I can't tell you how many miles I've clocked riding in the back of the deuce and half in my US Army days. I would agree these things are essentially bulletproof. Thanks for sharing.
More of these, yes please! Can't wait to see you tackle one in the dead of winter inside your heated shop. How great will that be, especially with the crane to move heavy stuff around.
I bought a 1966 deuce recently myself. Remember to use DOT 5 brake fluid. I’d drain all that old fuel too. Just ordered two oil and three fuel filters for mine. 22 quarts of oil required. The small primary fuel filter looks like a pain to change. You have to pull the alternator out of the way. Good luck with your deuce. Mine has a 900 gallon water tank and pump making it an awesome off-road fire truck.
Sounds like it could have a stuck injector another thing to check is make sure you check your fill filters if it got ran out of fuel water moisture could have got in the lines and it could be sucking a little bit of water up with the fuel in and making it run funky