air assist also helps to make the burn deeper helping to place the veneers at a good depth and if you watch until the end you would see that just sands off no problem. maybe you need to figure some stuff out because it would have took 3 passes with low air to get the same depth.
awesome (Y) good luck, just remember if your etching the pattern out you dont need to set a kerf offset, if you are cutting the shapes to fit inside themselves the you will need a kerf offset.
Thank you, maybe some small earth magnets in the right place to pin the high spots, not 100% on this as i havent tried but what about putting a nice flat piece of ply on the laser and using double sided tape to pin the veneer to the ply ? might work if not a good vacuum table maybe.
@@carphotography If you make a vacuum table style board underneath and plug any openings around the edges, it works. it does help to put the veneer under a board with a 50lb. weight on top for a couple days. i don't use the honeycomb btw. After a bit the vaccuum table board can get a little messy, i just use some orange hand cleaner and it keeps it for a bit. but once all the lines get too deep the little bits start flaking. A good wood on wood veneer is best. the trick is getting the depth on the first pass (birch) at a decent depth so you don't sand thru the veneer. I don't use wood glue, i use contact cement. The water in the glue causes the grain to rise. And instead of teak oil, I use a sanding sealer and a clear lacquer. So as long as i keep it out of the sun it will last forever. Curious how you get the kerf to cooperate, it's kinda trial and error depending on the pic. Some rounded edges being sharper don't like to cooperate. I use cherry wood on wood veneer and a pre-finsihed (sanding sealered) birch, so literally my sanding is just a 1 pass with 180 grit, 1 layer of sealer, 1 sanding pass, and then the lacquer.
copyright is only a problem when you are selling the items, i can make as many personal items as i like, they can only come after you if you are making money from their product, if they want me to take down my personal creations from my wall then they butter have a warrant.
@@user-yi8ev4hx9q there is a huge amount of people that have broken copyright with these machines , My channel normally shows how to learn Lightburn so people can create their own products.
Air assist is what causes your burn. If you don’t use air assist it won’t burn the edges like that. Not sure why people can’t figure that out…
air assist also helps to make the burn deeper helping to place the veneers at a good depth and if you watch until the end you would see that just sands off no problem. maybe you need to figure some stuff out because it would have took 3 passes with low air to get the same depth.
thoroughly enjoyed watching this definitely gonna have a go thank you for upload
Awesome thanks for watching :D and yes there is lots more i dont over the time :D thank you
Very nice walkthrough!
Thank you! 👍
Thanks for taking the time and effort of making this video and sharing Your knowledge :)
Best regards
thank you and thanks for watching :D
Very informative, thank you for sharing :)
Have just got some veneer sheets to try this.
awesome (Y) good luck, just remember if your etching the pattern out you dont need to set a kerf offset, if you are cutting the shapes to fit inside themselves the you will need a kerf offset.
Thanks for sharing the info.👍
Thanks for watching
Hi , nice informative video , but the link about your veneer shop is dead , pse what is the thickness of the veneer ? thanks and regards
Looks nice.
Thank you (Y)
Good work. Im struggling with my veneer not being dead flat. It makes every inlay piece i cut out a slightly different shape and size. Any ideas ?
Thank you, maybe some small earth magnets in the right place to pin the high spots, not 100% on this as i havent tried but what about putting a nice flat piece of ply on the laser and using double sided tape to pin the veneer to the ply ? might work if not a good vacuum table maybe.
@@carphotography If you make a vacuum table style board underneath and plug any openings around the edges, it works. it does help to put the veneer under a board with a 50lb. weight on top for a couple days. i don't use the honeycomb btw. After a bit the vaccuum table board can get a little messy, i just use some orange hand cleaner and it keeps it for a bit. but once all the lines get too deep the little bits start flaking. A good wood on wood veneer is best. the trick is getting the depth on the first pass (birch) at a decent depth so you don't sand thru the veneer. I don't use wood glue, i use contact cement. The water in the glue causes the grain to rise. And instead of teak oil, I use a sanding sealer and a clear lacquer. So as long as i keep it out of the sun it will last forever. Curious how you get the kerf to cooperate, it's kinda trial and error depending on the pic. Some rounded edges being sharper don't like to cooperate. I use cherry wood on wood veneer and a pre-finsihed (sanding sealered) birch, so literally my sanding is just a 1 pass with 180 grit, 1 layer of sealer, 1 sanding pass, and then the lacquer.
👍👏🎄👏
Good day do you carry out online classes
HI, no i dont but if there is something that you need help with let me know here in the comments and i will make a video about it. thank you
the technique is good, but you really don't care about copyright, do you ?
copyright is only a problem when you are selling the items, i can make as many personal items as i like, they can only come after you if you are making money from their product, if they want me to take down my personal creations from my wall then they butter have a warrant.
@@carphotography That's right, I apologise for my comment !
@@user-yi8ev4hx9q there is a huge amount of people that have broken copyright with these machines , My channel normally shows how to learn Lightburn so people can create their own products.