Dude, I can’t even say how awesome timing this to just have been posted. I’ve been doing an overhaul on my 96 Tacoma for the past few weeks and have read and watched several guides on how to pull the engine. This is by far the best that I’ve seen and has changed several steps with how I was planning to go about it. Could not be any more concise or clear. 10/10 fantastic 👏
If I have a burnt valve, should I just remove the motor to have it rebuild? The engine 4V, has 216K miles on it. I think I was quoted $2K for re-machining the motor. The motor has to be removed for the heads to be re-machined. Would I be better off in the long run. Or should I just remove the motor my self, get the heads re-machined and save my self some money by doing the removing and reinstalling of the motor? I love my Taco and never want to get rid of it.
This engine had a burnt valve, and it also had worn piston rings(consuming oil and a compression wet test increased the compression results). If you just have a burnt valve technically, you would be able to get away with just doing a head job, and that does not require removing the whole motor.
another question. Putting 2004 2.7L into a 1997 Tacoma. Swapped out ECU, still have wire harness that mounts on top of glove box that 2004 harness won't plug into. Can I just repin it?
For this style pump I held the pulley with a screwdriver jammid through the hole of the pulley and the the pump while I zapped the nut holding it down with a impactt.
@ well yeah i get that, i can get the nut off, then the pulley is just like stuck on the spline, ive tried lightly prying it a bit. but its correct to say after that nut is gone, the pulley "should" just pull right off?
Yes, it should just come off. You can try spraying g the splines with some penetrative oil. Lightly prying it off and or hitting it with a rubber mallet
Mine is similar, 2000 Toyota Tacoma 5 speed; do I need to remove the tranny or can it stay in place? which way would be easier? I am rebuilding the engine and head, currently have a blown head gasket, as far as the tranny goes I will be replacing the clutch but I dont need to remove the tranny for this right? or do I?
You can leave the tranny in the vehicle suported with a jack or stand, you would just need to remove the starter and of course the bell housing bolts holding the trannsmission to the engine. I would say it is a bit less steps leaving the transmission in the vehicle, but linning up the engine to the transmission in the vehicle would be a bit more difficult, though, if it is a manual transmission.
@@harborareatech310 It is a 5 speed manual yes, I am revisiting here as I am right now to the point, now I am removing just the block because the head was already removed and sent to machine shop last week; I did not have a blown head gasket, gas was 5 years old when driving the truck for test and gummed up having valve stuck open on cyl 1 hence no compression, the block seems fine but will overhaul as well since i am already half way then will replace clutch, water pump and oil pump if I see them with sign of wear; vehicle has 209K miles, on the head I am keeping the lifters but replacing the valves, I will be also replacing the fuel tank and the pump as the new one installed 3 years ago may be bad with gunk up fuel, need to find a way to clean the fuel rails as already have what needed to clean the injectors which are tested good; to take the head out it was a nightmare and I am not sure yet if once all back if I should install the engine as a whole or by pieces as I am taking it out, precisely because of the alignment of the block with the tranny; for supporting the transmission I looped a ratchet belt underneath it supporting it which can be tight to raise it some or lose to lower it giving me what I may need for the alignment later on, with the whole engine assembled the issues would be the 2 top bellhousing bolts at the center of the firewall; they are difficult to reach even with the head out!
@fireyourrocketts if leaving the transmission in the vehicle then the top bell housing bolts you get by loosening the transmission mount and bracket. Then tilt tailshaft down and use a long extension to access the top bellhousing bolts
@@harborareatech310 I already took it out the block morning, since it was only the block I could access the two bolts on top, it was a bitch to separate the block from transmission, I supported the trans with a ratchet belt but the dowel pins were pretty stuck, there was no lubrication in the pinion, all dry and rusty it was so bad that I smashed a finger in the process by the force using while prying, now I have my doubts for the time when assembling back if I should leave the trans in ir take it out? I keep thinking how will I be able to join the 2?? only way is with some bolts but the manual does not say how and I read against it somewhere; what you mention in your comment is best with a lift, mine is occupied now, to do that car has to be raised from ground quite a bit to accommodate me underneath; I do have a long 48” extention for this method
@@harborareatech310 You use an impact gun for the crankshaft bolt and the flywheel bolts I am assuming, does it do it easily or it is best to use a wrench? I would think with a wrench/cheat bar would be very hard
Don't even have a tacoma but I got hooked and watched this entire video. Great step by step. 👍👏
Thanks you I realy appreciate it!
Dude, I can’t even say how awesome timing this to just have been posted. I’ve been doing an overhaul on my 96 Tacoma for the past few weeks and have read and watched several guides on how to pull the engine. This is by far the best that I’ve seen and has changed several steps with how I was planning to go about it. Could not be any more concise or clear. 10/10 fantastic 👏
Thank you. I hope it helps. Let me know if you have any questions during the procedure
Thats some work right there!!!
Gotta stay busy, bro. I got spoiled, always working with a lift. Had to go back to the roots to working on the floor! 😆
very informative.my yard days are over,but enjoyed watching your video.
@@JOHNNYCARROLL-f9e thanks . I appreciate it
Very nice job on the video and the removal. It’s clear you are a skilled mechanic!
Thank you
Super useful video as I'm looking to overhaul my 1999 toyota tacoma!
@@sunshineupgrades thank you. Awesome trucks any questions let me know!
Exceptional description. Love the step by step. Appreciate the attention to detail. Awesome video.
Thanks for watching. And i appreciate the comment!
If I have a burnt valve, should I just remove the motor to have it rebuild? The engine 4V, has 216K miles on it. I think I was quoted $2K for re-machining the motor. The motor has to be removed for the heads to be re-machined. Would I be better off in the long run. Or should I just remove the motor my self, get the heads re-machined and save my self some money by doing the removing and reinstalling of the motor? I love my Taco and never want to get rid of it.
This engine had a burnt valve, and it also had worn piston rings(consuming oil and a compression wet test increased the compression results). If you just have a burnt valve technically, you would be able to get away with just doing a head job, and that does not require removing the whole motor.
Nice work & helpful vid. Thanks for that. Do you have to pull engine with trans. I'm swapping 3rz-fe. Can't I just pull engine, leave transmission in?
@Smoothboxnailer yes you can depending if you have a manual or auto trans, some steps may be a bit different
another question. Putting 2004 2.7L into a 1997 Tacoma. Swapped out ECU, still have wire harness that mounts on top of glove box that 2004 harness won't plug into. Can I just repin it?
You probably can re pin if you have the proper schematics, but it would be best and maybe easier to just swap harnesses
tanks
Thanks for watching!
Whats the cost to pull the motor and regasket every thing
how did you take that power steering pulley off? no vids and the puller i got isn't for this type of thing
For this style pump I held the pulley with a screwdriver jammid through the hole of the pulley and the the pump while I zapped the nut holding it down with a impactt.
@ well yeah i get that, i can get the nut off, then the pulley is just like stuck on the spline, ive tried lightly prying it a bit. but its correct to say after that nut is gone, the pulley "should" just pull right off?
Yes, it should just come off. You can try spraying g the splines with some penetrative oil. Lightly prying it off and or hitting it with a rubber mallet
@ thanks goat 🐐
Mine is similar, 2000 Toyota Tacoma 5 speed; do I need to remove the tranny or can it stay in place? which way would be easier? I am rebuilding the engine and head, currently have a blown head gasket, as far as the tranny goes I will be replacing the clutch but I dont need to remove the tranny for this right? or do I?
You can leave the tranny in the vehicle suported with a jack or stand, you would just need to remove the starter and of course the bell housing bolts holding the trannsmission to the engine. I would say it is a bit less steps leaving the transmission in the vehicle, but linning up the engine to the transmission in the vehicle would be a bit more difficult, though, if it is a manual transmission.
@@harborareatech310 It is a 5 speed manual yes, I am revisiting here as I am right now to the point, now I am removing just the block because the head was already removed and sent to machine shop last week; I did not have a blown head gasket, gas was 5 years old when driving the truck for test and gummed up having valve stuck open on cyl 1 hence no compression, the block seems fine but will overhaul as well since i am already half way then will replace clutch, water pump and oil pump if I see them with sign of wear; vehicle has 209K miles, on the head I am keeping the lifters but replacing the valves, I will be also replacing the fuel tank and the pump as the new one installed 3 years ago may be bad with gunk up fuel, need to find a way to clean the fuel rails as already have what needed to clean the injectors which are tested good; to take the head out it was a nightmare and I am not sure yet if once all back if I should install the engine as a whole or by pieces as I am taking it out, precisely because of the alignment of the block with the tranny; for supporting the transmission I looped a ratchet belt underneath it supporting it which can be tight to raise it some or lose to lower it giving me what I may need for the alignment later on, with the whole engine assembled the issues would be the 2 top bellhousing bolts at the center of the firewall; they are difficult to reach even with the head out!
@fireyourrocketts if leaving the transmission in the vehicle then the top bell housing bolts you get by loosening the transmission mount and bracket. Then tilt tailshaft down and use a long extension to access the top bellhousing bolts
@@harborareatech310 I already took it out the block morning, since it was only the block I could access the two bolts on top, it was a bitch to separate the block from transmission, I supported the trans with a ratchet belt but the dowel pins were pretty stuck, there was no lubrication in the pinion, all dry and rusty it was so bad that I smashed a finger in the process by the force using while prying, now I have my doubts for the time when assembling back if I should leave the trans in ir take it out? I keep thinking how will I be able to join the 2?? only way is with some bolts but the manual does not say how and I read against it somewhere; what you mention in your comment is best with a lift, mine is occupied now, to do that car has to be raised from ground quite a bit to accommodate me underneath; I do have a long 48” extention for this method
How come you didn't remove the trans before you pulled the engine?
For me, it was easier to separate the two outside the vehicle
@@harborareatech310 You use an impact gun for the crankshaft bolt and the flywheel bolts I am assuming, does it do it easily or it is best to use a wrench? I would think with a wrench/cheat bar would be very hard
@fireyourrocketts impact to remove both. The flywheel bolts should come off easily with an impact. The crank bolt is tighter!
can the tranny and engine be pulled as one on a 4X4 as well? Thank you.
For the 4x4 I remove the engine and leave the transmission in the vehicle
👍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻✌️
Amazing work! I would like to hire you to do some work on my car whats the best way to contact you?