Thankyou soo much for the video, i watched it yesterday before i changed my fuelfilter on my Audi A6 2006 2.0 TFSI. The fuelfilter was located on exactly same place as your Audi from 2007. Again thankyou for make this video, everything is soo much easier .
Most thorough video for fuel filter replacement on an A6. Thank you for this! If you have more a6 videos that would be dope! Specially audi a6 pcv valve replace.
Thanks for the compliment! I will be posting alot of A6 videos in the next weeks. The next one is replacing the grille and also an oil flush. I haven't done the pcv valve yet, but if I do, I will record and post it🤟🏼
You can take the rubber covers where the fuel line goes on the new fuel pump and place them on the old pump while you are removing it. It will stop the fuel from coming out of the old pump.
I ended up replacing mine today on a 3.0T, I had to remove the bigger underbody panel on the passenger-side too, it was quite the scene, but doable, car sounded quieter and started up quickly without hesitation
It'll do that! That's why it's helpful to pull the fuel pump fuse and start the car until it runs out of gas. A lot less will spill. Glad the video was helpful. Thanks for the comment🤙🏼
@@Mechani_Cole I pulled the fuse but it still sprayed pretty crazy, it didn't last too long only a second but it was really strong. Maybe I'll let the car die twice to really make sure all the fuel is out. Thanks again Cole you're the most reliable source when it comes to my A6
Mine leaks like crazy after I changed mine, 2007 A4. Gonna do it again from start to finish and see if something got messed up. I didnt know about the fuse trick, super helpful
Hi, for some reason I've attempted to replace my fuel filter as well, my 2007 Audi most likely has the factory fuel filter. Somehow... I kinda managed to broke one of the "blue pushing tabs" it's just cracked in half, but never been able to remove the filter. Once I noticed that i almost ruined one of my fuel lines... I've stop bothering with it... Now, I think I should have pull out the fuse before, to release pressure on the line... I guess that's what I did wrong. Thanks for the tip. I'll try to find a retaining clip to replace it with mine and have the filter replaced eventually. Thanks for the tip. You just earned a new subscriber!
Hey Daniel, thanks for stopping by! That sucks one of the clips broke, however, there is a solution, if you have a pick you can stick in the bottom and gently release the small plastic tab that is holding it in. Easier said than done, but with a little patience it will come off. It will also still re-seal and work once you get it as long as it doesn't get too ruined. It may help to push down at the same time, while using a curved pic to release it. I just dealt with something similar and it took me about 20 minutes to get ones off. Appreciate you watching and subscribing, thank you!
Yes! Best tip is to push down while pressing in. They make pliers for then as well. Don't be too hard, if they don't come right off its because they aren't being released. They go on and off pretty easy once released. Glad the video helped, thanks for dropping a comment🤙🏼
@@Mechani_ColeYes I hate all the connectors on this 2011 Audi S6 V10. So far I have replaced spark plugs, valve cover gaskets, air filters, secondary air pump, N80 evap valve, PCV valve, engine oil, oil filter, and drain plug, and now on to the fuel filter. Thanks again man for the tip I appreciate it have a great day. 👍
Some guy here in Texas tried to charge me 150 2 install a fuel filter on my audi a6 I said f*** dat u crazy I can do it myself after watching dis video thanx 👌🏼💪🏼
Damnnnn! Thats a lot just for a 20-30 minute job max! This job is super easy, just make sure to follow each step. Happy I could help, thanks for watching🤟🏼
Just wondering about the importance of changing the fuel filter on a 3.0 TDI 245HP Avant Quattro when using premium Shell V Power diesel; it's been ~50.000 km since I replaced the fuel filter and the car is going strong on 335.000 km, running silky smooth .. just love that car.
Super helpful - gonna try this on mine hopefully soon. Mine is a junky 190k mile 4.2 v8 car from an auction. It runs fine but about 3/4 throttle and up it stutters super bad, and will throw misfire codes. The engine will then run rough the remainder of the drive until I shut the car off and restart it. Really strange.
I actually have this engine out of the car currently and can say for sure, this did NOT fix my problem. It may have cleaned so deposits and such in the engine, but it needed alot more. I can almost guarantee you that yours needs to be carbon cleaned. Direct injection engines need this done and there is no way around it due to carbon depsoits. Not many do it as maintenence. On top of that, ALL my crankcase vent tubes were cracked and could only tell when removing them. Timing chain guides had broken plastic pieces on it and had failed, the list goes on. This flush will work great for its intended purpose, but after having to remove this entire Audi engine and inspecting the insides, I can confirm that NO flush would EVER clean this engine enough to fix any issues. For your situation I can bet your problems are more than a flush is going to help. Especially with misfire codes. Check out these next videos being posted and I will show what I am talking about. Thanks for watching and commenting🤙🏼
@@Mechani_Cole Yeah I'm sure a ton of stuff is wrong with this engine. I'm debating if it's worth the hassle but I figure I'll try simple stuff like plugs and fuel filter just to see what happens. You are probably right though. The Timing chain guides is what scares me the most. Probably should cut my losses and try selling lol.
@@sgfreak96 funny story here. I actually went to change my spark plugs myself, found oil in every single plug hole covering the spark plugs. This was just routine maintenence and I ended up having to pull the engine🤦♂️ There was stripped torx on the timing cover from previous owner. These cars are notorious for leaking from the cam girdle seal, can't get to it unless timing cover is off and the bolts were stripped with no room for an extractor. But on the plus side, found a bunch of issues to fix, it was a ticking time bomb. I don't think the tensioners are that hard, just have to have the right tool and Ebay is a god send for that. When doing the timing chain the engine gets locked TDC with a pin so it doesn't move. I have replaced both upper timing chains and can say it was much easier than anticipated, minus having to pull the engine. Keep in mind, after the upper timing tensioners, there is also lower timing chain tensioners and guides. The best way to get to those without pulling the engine is to drop the transmission, it gives full access then. Either way, I hope its a simple fix, but knowing Audi, you will have some work cut out. But in the end, you just become better and more experienced🤙🏼
Good questions! Yes, you can just use a jack with jackstands. Or could even use ramps or back it on to a curb to get it high enough. The fuel filter is located on the passenger side in the back😁
I believe I have a situation where you can help. I first came here to do the fuel filter. Then realized you may be the guy to ask. Is there a way to talk off line? Other wise I have an 06 Avant with crank no start, or 45 second start lots of shutter, does some surging reving up and down, then stalls. Not to start again for hours or a day. I changed the HPFP and cam follower with exact Hatichi model, did your carbon clean process, newer plugs, etc. Not sure on coils. This car was running really poorly when I first got it (at auction). But it would run. I thought maybe it was something to do with incorrectly installed runners. I had very loud knocks coming from the upper intake. I replaced the upper Intake with a used one from eBay. Now after it is back together I can't get it to stay running or start at all. 1) After installing the new pump I read somewhere on Audi forums that you needed some up dated fuel pressure (rail) sensors. Is this correct? 2) Is it possible this is a LPFP issue in tank. Or a fuel filter clogged like that you replaced here. 3) It seems like a fuel or air issue not a spark issue so where to start? Is there any special way to install the upper intake and lower intake (except pulling vacuum on lower runners to get the flaps in place before bolting down runner to head). Like am I starving the engine of air? At first I was getting lots of codes, now after I checked the fuses and relays under hood near driver side (main ones that were electrical and cam shaft sensor and runner codes are gone) I only get G40 cam shaft position sensor Implausible ( I already changed all 4 of these as well as the 4 adjustment solenoids). Problem is I'm throwing so many things at it that it is making it more confusing. But it does start (rough, then rumbles and stumbles no start), but wont stay running. So what would you suggest. One time codes were set for misfire in #3 and #2 but only when I gave it gas to keep it running. But that only keeps it alive for seconds. Within 2 seconds when I'm on the gas it dies. Suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks-JH
Hey John, this sounds like a classic case of bad timing chains and tensioners. OR, you could have bad compression or leaking heads. Have you done a compression test? Leak down test after. Have you checked the timing measuring value blocks on VCDS to see if in spec? Sounds like your car is severely out of time if giving it gas makes it kind of better. I imagine that's why it was at the auction? The timing jobs require engine removal, so most folks neglect it or avoid it once they start to go bad. But with those codes, plus your symptoms, I'd almost bet money that you have a timing issue. Typically, I don't chat offline as to many others have wasted hours of my time at my expense. I'm happy to help here in the comments. I think I'm about to open the TH-cam memberships up that give people access to me for questions and direct contact now that I'm thinking of it🤔
Either way, further diagnosis is required before you throw anymore parts at it. The diag should have clarity and give you the exact cause. Another option is noid testing the wire harness leading to that Cam sensor to ensure that it's getting power when powered on. I've seen cut or disconnected wires cause this as well. Process of elimination until you get to the source
For the Cam Position Sensor G40 I've got 4.97V 1 to 3 wire when unplugged and 2 wire reads 0 when grounded. But what you asked may be the key. I checked compression when I first got the car. 4 5 6 bank 2 were identical below 100 and 123 on bank 1 were over 150. But I need to retest compression as I think I did it wrong. Plus I did it before all the carbon was out of there. I don't know enough around the VCDS software to get the angles on the Cams etc. So I'm working on that. But as i mentioned before I don't need a different fuel pressure sensor when I change the HPFP correct? Much wrong info on the forums sometimes leads down a dark path.@@Mechani_Cole
@johnhalikiopoulos6614 I personally haven't heard of needed a new fuel sensor. If you have compression below 100 on a few cylinders and more than a 10-20% difference on other cylinders. It's safe to say the compression is bad. Carbon cleaning would only effect the leak down test results of the head and valves. Compression test is checking the pistons compression.
Out with the old in with the new. I see u r fan of Chrisfix if I'm not wrong. BTW how do I I buy the right one before doing anything to it? Can I just go to Auto shop and asked for them?
Seen his channel before but haven't really watched much there. The correct part is linked below for this car, but yes, you can ask any auto parts store for the filter. Or just google search year, make, model and fuel filter to bring up good results🤙🏼
@@Mechani_Cole 5:00 - 5:10 you said there will be another video coming up soon, on resetting or programming out the module…. I know this is easily done through GEKO, ODIS or VCDS but I’m sure due to safety of passenger(s) not to remove it..?? Usually it’s a simple thing as clock spring, seat wiring and sometimes ABS/ESP connected faults down to a speed sensor which is common on Audi.
Never did I mention removing it. Just programing the light off if it keep coming on. This ended up actually being a recall that Audi fixed for me too so no 2nd video was made.
@@Mechani_Cole To “program the light off” is a removal of a functioning module, now, resetting it due to a fault is something else but no doubt you couldn’t as it’s within the ECUs memory and logged fault that’s still there, thus you say a recall from Audi which fixed the fault under TSB safety recall…
Haha, never that! It looks so bad without it. I just bought another A6 thats missing some plastics and under shield and ordered all of them😅 Makes my OCD happy! Thanks for watching🤙🏼
No, I don't think that will change much. Typically has to do with the pressure in the fuel rail. Could be a few different things. Fuel Rail/System Pressure P0087 - 002 - Too Low - Intermittent Getting a proper diagnosis will help prevent just throwing parts at it. Is it running rough? Or does it run good? Thanks for watching🤙🏼
@@alecsaucedo1132 I would do a further diagnosis and check the fuel trim % levels and try to find a difference. It could be a lot of different things and I wouldn't recommend blindly throwing parts at these cars. Best to know the first time
Hey man, quick question, my 2011 Audi A4 died while driving, my battery is fine and motor , turbo sensors ect, it's all pointing to the fuel pump and/or fuel filter, you seem to know Audis pretty well... Will a bad fuel pump or filter cause it to die, then not crank at all?
Good question, personally, I have never seen or had a fuel pump stop the engine from cranking over. The engine should still crank and act like it wants to start even if the fuel pump is bad or disconnected. Fuel filter woudn't do that either usually with how clean todays gas is. Sometimes these Audis throw codes without a check engine light. Try scanning with a VagCom scanner. I bet its the crankshaft position sensor. If it was the fuel pump, the engine would still crank, it just wouldn't start
@@Mechani_Cole cool thank you I've replaced the crankshaft sensor still no crank wtf, I'll keep doing research, if you have any other ideas please tell me idk what else to do
Do you have to drain the gas tank first? I assume you do but just wanted to ask. I found my A6 at the auction and it drives perfectly but there are a few lights on that read as sensors. Also it is a little rough when idle. Could that be fuel pressure or the fuel lines needing cleaned? Thanks!
Definitely not, no gas draining required. Just follow the steps in the video. Everything is included. Speaking from experience on this car, this won't fix your rough idle. This car 100% needs to routine carbon cleaning done due to being a direct injection engine. Also the timing chain tensioners usually always need to be replaced. On top of that, I bet you if you pull out one of your ignition coils, it will be covered in oil. Its not from the valve cover gasket either. There is a 2nd seal lower, right on top of the head. It leaks into the tubes no matter what as its an odd design and the gasket fails. Just had to do this massive job on my A6, runs sooo much better now. Carbon cleaning being done next. There was a ton of carbon inside, only at 120k miles. This will cause rough idles. I got my A6 Avant for only $1200 with 100k miles, but it def needed some love in the engine department. This fuel filter didn't really do anything if I am quite honest. Just filtering my fuel better🤟🏼
@@Mechani_Cole man... You got yourself such a great deal! These cars are sooooo underestimated, I really don't know why, but their value falls so bad. I got mine a few years ago, I paid $9 000, it's a very rare combination, it's the Avant A6 S, spot suspension, and it's white (I love white cars). I've realized that working on theses cars it's sooooo easy, once you get comfortable a bit with it, it's so easy. Just ordered the tools for timing tensioners, intake decarboning, and that lower gasket that you just mentioned about it. Mine has about 120k miles as well. This cars, with this engine 3.2 FSI, is probably the best engine ever made. Just last week we went looking for a A6 for my girlfriend (finally she's getting rid of the BMW piece of shit) the newer ones are 3.0 but all of them are Supercharged, we were looking at around 25k for a 2014... My biggest disappointed was to find out they are not using the same hinges as VW - Audi used to, also doors feels and sound like any Honda appliance.
@@RomanTrollanski totally agree! These cars value drop so much mainly due to how much it costs to maintain them if you can't do the work yourself. You are going to love one of my next videos, I actually had to remove the entire engine due to the rear timing cover bolts being stripped when I went to do the tensioners. What a job that was! But it got a full engine refresh and running great. Working on that video now, over 14 hours of footage trying to cut down. Next I am carbon cleaning it, and putting coil overs on it as the suspension has gone bad. The 3.2 is a great engine, however, they have a stupid "cam girdle seal" that is notorious for leaking oil into the spark plugs wells. To fix this, you have to remove the timing chain tensioners, and remove both cams and girdle just to get to a $8 gasket. Also, all new hardware needed. Probably spent $200 on new Torx bolts for the entire engine basically haha. Should have these videos done in the next few weeks, one of the biggest jobs I have done. This 3.2 has 4 timing chains in the rear and the locking tool is 100% needed. We recently got rid of my Fiances BMW E90, and got an Audi Q5 instead. Way happier with that. the newer BMW's are just not that nice unless its the M package, and even then, still has its issues. These Audi's are pretty easy to work on though once you understand them
There’s no pressure in those fuel lines. Worst case, it drips a little bit more if you just leave the fuse in. The tank pump is low pressure - the high pressure pump is up in the engine bay, on the engine.
I've changed enough of these to know thats not true. Might not be "high pressure", but still plenty of pressure to spray gas in your face. Just drain it first, it's too easy
@@Mechani_Cole I'm not sure what you're doing to make them spray all over your face - maybe they just like you more than me - but even ELSA doesn't mention removing fuses and running it dry. Just to disconnect fuel lines, remove bolt, remove fuel filter.
1st remove the carpet in the trunk the fuel pump is located back there on the passenger side. Then remove the screws holding the access panel in. This will give you access to the fuel pump then you will have to disconnect 2 fuel pump lines and one electronic connection. After that you'll have to remove the fuel pump ring that is holding the in which can be kind of difficult. Then you are able to lift out your fuel pump disconnect any remaining lines and swap out the new one. The fuel connect lines can also be difficult to remove with out breaking as well. Here is a fuel pump that should fit - amzn.to/2YqtC1K
@@jonathaanttv1222 Check Flex pipes. ALL INTAKE and ALL BOOST. Also the hose in the ECU and to and from the N75. Check for leaks. You will probably feel an oil residue. Which would mean to replace. Have you cleaned your EGR/ Intake recently? you might be choking off. because there isnt enough PSI to run your turbo efficently/ effectivly. There for it cuts itself off to save itself. A lot of carbon build up in these engines. Check those and post back. Also have your car scanned I bet you have a p1550 code. Pressure deviation. Even without a check engine light, there can still be a code. VagCom scanner will help sort that out.
Hi Rumel! Yes, I agree, they can be a pain in the a** for sure. Awesome that you got it done though! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment, hope the video helped🤙🏼
@@Mechani_Cole no, thank you for posting up an easy tutorial. Nice little tip about the black clip on the single hose. Kinda stupid why its blue on the other side but then black on this one.
"Supposed to do this once a year”???? Says who, what, when, where?? Not even the Stealership or GreaseMonkey sells me/you that filter replacement once a year 🤔🤔🤔. Not at all sure why it's mentioned in your video.
You're right. That was a mistake and I edited it out. Thanks for catching that. I changed all the filters that day so I was probably thinking of the air filter when I was speaking.
Audi A6/A4 fuel filter used in video : amzn.to/2GI0t98
eManual Repair Manuals For Any Vehicle - shrsl.com/43l4o
Thankyou soo much for the video, i watched it yesterday before i changed my fuelfilter on my Audi A6 2006 2.0 TFSI. The fuelfilter was located on exactly same place as your Audi from 2007.
Again thankyou for make this video, everything is soo much easier .
Thanks for the comment, glad it was helpful!🤙🏼
Why did you change it?
Because it's supposed to be changed every 30-60k miles. It's a regular maintenance item
Most thorough video for fuel filter replacement on an A6. Thank you for this! If you have more a6 videos that would be dope! Specially audi a6 pcv valve replace.
Thanks for the compliment! I will be posting alot of A6 videos in the next weeks. The next one is replacing the grille and also an oil flush. I haven't done the pcv valve yet, but if I do, I will record and post it🤟🏼
You can take the rubber covers where the fuel line goes on the new fuel pump and place them on the old pump while you are removing it. It will stop the fuel from coming out of the old pump.
Thats a great tip! Thanks for sharing, will actually do that on the A4 when I change it.
Thanks for watching and commenting🤟🏼
Great video. I took the caps the new filter came with and popped them on the one as I removed the connectors. Helped spill less gas. Stuffs pricey.
Thats a great tip! I think this was filmed back when gas was around $3, those were the good ol days😅
Thanks for the help finding the fuel pump fuse.
Glad it was helpful🤙🏼
I ended up replacing mine today on a 3.0T, I had to remove the bigger underbody panel on the passenger-side too, it was quite the scene,
but doable, car sounded quieter and started up quickly without hesitation
My fuel sprayed EVERYWHERE 😂, good video it helped a lot
It'll do that! That's why it's helpful to pull the fuel pump fuse and start the car until it runs out of gas. A lot less will spill.
Glad the video was helpful. Thanks for the comment🤙🏼
@@Mechani_Cole I pulled the fuse but it still sprayed pretty crazy, it didn't last too long only a second but it was really strong. Maybe I'll let the car die twice to really make sure all the fuel is out. Thanks again Cole you're the most reliable source when it comes to my A6
Mine leaks like crazy after I changed mine, 2007 A4. Gonna do it again from start to finish and see if something got messed up. I didnt know about the fuse trick, super helpful
Make sure the filter and connections click down all the way. It can be difficult or require and hard push in. Hope that helps🤙🏼
@@Mechani_Cole looks like mine is a rusty spring clamp on the hose. Never thought to check those while doing the fuel filter replacement.
@@ahhahhchue ah, good catch! Hopefully its all fixed now😬
@@Mechani_Cole no, I can't figure out how to get the hose clamps off. Don't want to break a fuel line
th-cam.com/video/pnmsWd8XhPs/w-d-xo.html
Advice: turn ignition to on without starting car for about 10 seconds to build fuel pressure
Why? To get more gas out?
Hi, for some reason I've attempted to replace my fuel filter as well, my 2007 Audi most likely has the factory fuel filter.
Somehow... I kinda managed to broke one of the "blue pushing tabs" it's just cracked in half, but never been able to remove the filter. Once I noticed that i almost ruined one of my fuel lines... I've stop bothering with it...
Now, I think I should have pull out the fuse before, to release pressure on the line... I guess that's what I did wrong. Thanks for the tip. I'll try to find a retaining clip to replace it with mine and have the filter replaced eventually. Thanks for the tip. You just earned a new subscriber!
Hey Daniel, thanks for stopping by!
That sucks one of the clips broke, however, there is a solution, if you have a pick you can stick in the bottom and gently release the small plastic tab that is holding it in. Easier said than done, but with a little patience it will come off. It will also still re-seal and work once you get it as long as it doesn't get too ruined. It may help to push down at the same time, while using a curved pic to release it.
I just dealt with something similar and it took me about 20 minutes to get ones off.
Appreciate you watching and subscribing, thank you!
I have an S6 to do soon, if its not in the same place at least I know what it looks like, many thanks Mr. Cole
It should be in the same place!
Thanks for watching, appreciate the comment🤟🏼
Good work man now I feel confident doing this just have to be careful with the fuel line connectors.
Yes! Best tip is to push down while pressing in. They make pliers for then as well. Don't be too hard, if they don't come right off its because they aren't being released. They go on and off pretty easy once released.
Glad the video helped, thanks for dropping a comment🤙🏼
@@Mechani_ColeYes I hate all the connectors on this 2011 Audi S6 V10. So far I have replaced spark plugs, valve cover gaskets, air filters, secondary air pump, N80 evap valve, PCV valve, engine oil, oil filter, and drain plug, and now on to the fuel filter. Thanks again man for the tip I appreciate it have a great day. 👍
@@Steve-gg3fn the V10 is whole other can of worms! Cool car though😎
This video was extremely helpful. My question to u is what side is the fuel filter at and is it by the front or back door of the vehicle ? Thanks
Back passenger side right in front of the back wheel🫡
Thank u brother. I definitely will be contacting u again cause I do have a few questions I gotta ask u about my avant .
I do not find any under car protection as seen in this video. Can you help me? (Australia) Thank you!
Hi, good question! I'm not familiar with the Australian models. Is your diesel or petrol?
Some guy here in Texas tried to charge me 150 2 install a fuel filter on my audi a6 I said f*** dat u crazy I can do it myself after watching dis video thanx 👌🏼💪🏼
Damnnnn! Thats a lot just for a 20-30 minute job max! This job is super easy, just make sure to follow each step.
Happy I could help, thanks for watching🤟🏼
Just wondering about the importance of changing the fuel filter on a 3.0 TDI 245HP Avant Quattro when using premium Shell V Power diesel; it's been ~50.000 km since I replaced the fuel filter and the car is going strong on 335.000 km, running silky smooth .. just love that car.
Still important, even more so for diesel I believe. Although we really don't have many in the states
Would this he the same on a 2010 Q5 3.2 ?
Same process. Location is just a little different if I remember right
it started quite hard. is it ok for the high pressure pump?
Yeah, they tend to make a little noise on startup
Super helpful - gonna try this on mine hopefully soon. Mine is a junky 190k mile 4.2 v8 car from an auction. It runs fine but about 3/4 throttle and up it stutters super bad, and will throw misfire codes. The engine will then run rough the remainder of the drive until I shut the car off and restart it. Really strange.
I actually have this engine out of the car currently and can say for sure, this did NOT fix my problem. It may have cleaned so deposits and such in the engine, but it needed alot more.
I can almost guarantee you that yours needs to be carbon cleaned. Direct injection engines need this done and there is no way around it due to carbon depsoits. Not many do it as maintenence.
On top of that, ALL my crankcase vent tubes were cracked and could only tell when removing them. Timing chain guides had broken plastic pieces on it and had failed, the list goes on.
This flush will work great for its intended purpose, but after having to remove this entire Audi engine and inspecting the insides, I can confirm that NO flush would EVER clean this engine enough to fix any issues.
For your situation I can bet your problems are more than a flush is going to help. Especially with misfire codes.
Check out these next videos being posted and I will show what I am talking about.
Thanks for watching and commenting🤙🏼
@@Mechani_Cole Yeah I'm sure a ton of stuff is wrong with this engine. I'm debating if it's worth the hassle but I figure I'll try simple stuff like plugs and fuel filter just to see what happens. You are probably right though. The Timing chain guides is what scares me the most. Probably should cut my losses and try selling lol.
@@sgfreak96 funny story here. I actually went to change my spark plugs myself, found oil in every single plug hole covering the spark plugs. This was just routine maintenence and I ended up having to pull the engine🤦♂️
There was stripped torx on the timing cover from previous owner. These cars are notorious for leaking from the cam girdle seal, can't get to it unless timing cover is off and the bolts were stripped with no room for an extractor.
But on the plus side, found a bunch of issues to fix, it was a ticking time bomb.
I don't think the tensioners are that hard, just have to have the right tool and Ebay is a god send for that. When doing the timing chain the engine gets locked TDC with a pin so it doesn't move. I have replaced both upper timing chains and can say it was much easier than anticipated, minus having to pull the engine.
Keep in mind, after the upper timing tensioners, there is also lower timing chain tensioners and guides. The best way to get to those without pulling the engine is to drop the transmission, it gives full access then.
Either way, I hope its a simple fix, but knowing Audi, you will have some work cut out. But in the end, you just become better and more experienced🤙🏼
I have 2 questions is it on drivers side or passenger side? And also can I do this with just a car Jack? Or do I need to lift the whole car
Good questions! Yes, you can just use a jack with jackstands. Or could even use ramps or back it on to a curb to get it high enough.
The fuel filter is located on the passenger side in the back😁
De cuantos bares debe ser el filtro para Audi A6 2008 motor 2.8 porfavor
Perfect! Thanks.
Thanks for watching🤙🏼
10/10
Do you know if 2012 is the same
2012 changes. There is no filter on the 2012 that is service-able🤟🏼
I believe I have a situation where you can help. I first came here to do the fuel filter. Then realized you may be the guy to ask. Is there a way to talk off line? Other wise I have an 06 Avant with crank no start, or 45 second start lots of shutter, does some surging reving up and down, then stalls. Not to start again for hours or a day. I changed the HPFP and cam follower with exact Hatichi model, did your carbon clean process, newer plugs, etc. Not sure on coils. This car was running really poorly when I first got it (at auction). But it would run. I thought maybe it was something to do with incorrectly installed runners. I had very loud knocks coming from the upper intake. I replaced the upper Intake with a used one from eBay. Now after it is back together I can't get it to stay running or start at all.
1) After installing the new pump I read somewhere on Audi forums that you needed some up dated fuel pressure (rail) sensors. Is this correct?
2) Is it possible this is a LPFP issue in tank. Or a fuel filter clogged like that you replaced here.
3) It seems like a fuel or air issue not a spark issue so where to start? Is there any special way to install the upper intake and lower intake (except pulling vacuum on lower runners to get the flaps in place before bolting down runner to head). Like am I starving the engine of air?
At first I was getting lots of codes, now after I checked the fuses and relays under hood near driver side (main ones that were electrical and cam shaft sensor and runner codes are gone) I only get G40 cam shaft position sensor Implausible ( I already changed all 4 of these as well as the 4 adjustment solenoids).
Problem is I'm throwing so many things at it that it is making it more confusing. But it does start (rough, then rumbles and stumbles no start), but wont stay running. So what would you suggest. One time codes were set for misfire in #3 and #2 but only when I gave it gas to keep it running. But that only keeps it alive for seconds. Within 2 seconds when I'm on the gas it dies.
Suggestions greatly appreciated.
Thanks-JH
Hey John, this sounds like a classic case of bad timing chains and tensioners. OR, you could have bad compression or leaking heads.
Have you done a compression test? Leak down test after. Have you checked the timing measuring value blocks on VCDS to see if in spec? Sounds like your car is severely out of time if giving it gas makes it kind of better.
I imagine that's why it was at the auction? The timing jobs require engine removal, so most folks neglect it or avoid it once they start to go bad.
But with those codes, plus your symptoms, I'd almost bet money that you have a timing issue.
Typically, I don't chat offline as to many others have wasted hours of my time at my expense. I'm happy to help here in the comments. I think I'm about to open the TH-cam memberships up that give people access to me for questions and direct contact now that I'm thinking of it🤔
Either way, further diagnosis is required before you throw anymore parts at it. The diag should have clarity and give you the exact cause.
Another option is noid testing the wire harness leading to that Cam sensor to ensure that it's getting power when powered on. I've seen cut or disconnected wires cause this as well. Process of elimination until you get to the source
For the Cam Position Sensor G40 I've got 4.97V 1 to 3 wire when unplugged and 2 wire reads 0 when grounded. But what you asked may be the key. I checked compression when I first got the car. 4 5 6 bank 2 were identical below 100 and 123 on bank 1 were over 150. But I need to retest compression as I think I did it wrong. Plus I did it before all the carbon was out of there. I don't know enough around the VCDS software to get the angles on the Cams etc. So I'm working on that.
But as i mentioned before I don't need a different fuel pressure sensor when I change the HPFP correct? Much wrong info on the forums sometimes leads down a dark path.@@Mechani_Cole
@johnhalikiopoulos6614 I personally haven't heard of needed a new fuel sensor. If you have compression below 100 on a few cylinders and more than a 10-20% difference on other cylinders. It's safe to say the compression is bad.
Carbon cleaning would only effect the leak down test results of the head and valves. Compression test is checking the pistons compression.
Out with the old in with the new.
I see u r fan of Chrisfix if I'm not wrong.
BTW how do I I buy the right one before doing anything to it?
Can I just go to Auto shop and asked for them?
Seen his channel before but haven't really watched much there.
The correct part is linked below for this car, but yes, you can ask any auto parts store for the filter.
Or just google search year, make, model and fuel filter to bring up good results🤙🏼
@@Mechani_Cole thank you very much.
Can you explain how can I drain gas tank ? A6 C6 ?
Not sure, maybe take the rear seat out, access the fuel door and siphon it all it out that way?
Why would you remove the SRS Airbag module out of the system..??
Can you put a time stamp to what you are referring to? No airbag module was removed
@@Mechani_Cole
5:00 - 5:10 you said there will be another video coming up soon, on resetting or programming out the module…. I know this is easily done through GEKO, ODIS or VCDS but I’m sure due to safety of passenger(s) not to remove it..??
Usually it’s a simple thing as clock spring, seat wiring and sometimes ABS/ESP connected faults down to a speed sensor which is common on Audi.
Never did I mention removing it. Just programing the light off if it keep coming on. This ended up actually being a recall that Audi fixed for me too so no 2nd video was made.
@@Mechani_Cole
To “program the light off” is a removal of a functioning module, now, resetting it due to a fault is something else but no doubt you couldn’t as it’s within the ECUs memory and logged fault that’s still there, thus you say a recall from Audi which fixed the fault under TSB safety recall…
Good stuff g, going to leave the cover off tho..#weightreduction
Haha, never that! It looks so bad without it. I just bought another A6 thats missing some plastics and under shield and ordered all of them😅 Makes my OCD happy!
Thanks for watching🤙🏼
i have a 2010 audi s5 v8, i got a P0087 code on my OBD with my check engine light, should i start with the fuel filter?
No, I don't think that will change much. Typically has to do with the pressure in the fuel rail. Could be a few different things.
Fuel Rail/System Pressure
P0087 - 002 - Too Low - Intermittent
Getting a proper diagnosis will help prevent just throwing parts at it. Is it running rough? Or does it run good?
Thanks for watching🤙🏼
@@Mechani_Cole it runs good, if not filter, should i do low pressure fuel pump?
@@alecsaucedo1132 I would do a further diagnosis and check the fuel trim % levels and try to find a difference. It could be a lot of different things and I wouldn't recommend blindly throwing parts at these cars. Best to know the first time
Hey man, quick question, my 2011 Audi A4 died while driving, my battery is fine and motor , turbo sensors ect, it's all pointing to the fuel pump and/or fuel filter, you seem to know Audis pretty well... Will a bad fuel pump or filter cause it to die, then not crank at all?
Good question, personally, I have never seen or had a fuel pump stop the engine from cranking over. The engine should still crank and act like it wants to start even if the fuel pump is bad or disconnected. Fuel filter woudn't do that either usually with how clean todays gas is.
Sometimes these Audis throw codes without a check engine light. Try scanning with a VagCom scanner. I bet its the crankshaft position sensor.
If it was the fuel pump, the engine would still crank, it just wouldn't start
@@Mechani_Cole cool thank you I've replaced the crankshaft sensor still no crank wtf, I'll keep doing research, if you have any other ideas please tell me idk what else to do
@@Mechani_Cole yo you think it could be an ignition switch? Would that be why it won't even crank but has full power to everything?
@@tannersmith8228 yes, its possible. Its gotta be something simple like that I imagine
@@Mechani_Cole thanks for all the help man Mucha appreciated 🙏🙏🙏
Do you have to drain the gas tank first? I assume you do but just wanted to ask. I found my A6 at the auction and it drives perfectly but there are a few lights on that read as sensors. Also it is a little rough when idle. Could that be fuel pressure or the fuel lines needing cleaned? Thanks!
Definitely not, no gas draining required. Just follow the steps in the video. Everything is included.
Speaking from experience on this car, this won't fix your rough idle. This car 100% needs to routine carbon cleaning done due to being a direct injection engine. Also the timing chain tensioners usually always need to be replaced.
On top of that, I bet you if you pull out one of your ignition coils, it will be covered in oil. Its not from the valve cover gasket either. There is a 2nd seal lower, right on top of the head. It leaks into the tubes no matter what as its an odd design and the gasket fails.
Just had to do this massive job on my A6, runs sooo much better now. Carbon cleaning being done next. There was a ton of carbon inside, only at 120k miles. This will cause rough idles.
I got my A6 Avant for only $1200 with 100k miles, but it def needed some love in the engine department. This fuel filter didn't really do anything if I am quite honest. Just filtering my fuel better🤟🏼
Thanks! I have the A6 4.2! It runs like a dream but definitely needs some tlc...I’m catching up on your videos :)
@@trenhaynes3362 nice! Love the V8s😬
Working on a few videos now on the engine removal and such. Should be posted soon
@@Mechani_Cole man... You got yourself such a great deal! These cars are sooooo underestimated, I really don't know why, but their value falls so bad. I got mine a few years ago, I paid $9 000, it's a very rare combination, it's the Avant A6 S, spot suspension, and it's white (I love white cars).
I've realized that working on theses cars it's sooooo easy, once you get comfortable a bit with it, it's so easy.
Just ordered the tools for timing tensioners, intake decarboning, and that lower gasket that you just mentioned about it. Mine has about 120k miles as well.
This cars, with this engine 3.2 FSI, is probably the best engine ever made.
Just last week we went looking for a A6 for my girlfriend (finally she's getting rid of the BMW piece of shit) the newer ones are 3.0 but all of them are Supercharged, we were looking at around 25k for a 2014... My biggest disappointed was to find out they are not using the same hinges as VW - Audi used to, also doors feels and sound like any Honda appliance.
@@RomanTrollanski totally agree! These cars value drop so much mainly due to how much it costs to maintain them if you can't do the work yourself.
You are going to love one of my next videos, I actually had to remove the entire engine due to the rear timing cover bolts being stripped when I went to do the tensioners.
What a job that was! But it got a full engine refresh and running great. Working on that video now, over 14 hours of footage trying to cut down.
Next I am carbon cleaning it, and putting coil overs on it as the suspension has gone bad.
The 3.2 is a great engine, however, they have a stupid "cam girdle seal" that is notorious for leaking oil into the spark plugs wells. To fix this, you have to remove the timing chain tensioners, and remove both cams and girdle just to get to a $8 gasket. Also, all new hardware needed. Probably spent $200 on new Torx bolts for the entire engine basically haha.
Should have these videos done in the next few weeks, one of the biggest jobs I have done. This 3.2 has 4 timing chains in the rear and the locking tool is 100% needed.
We recently got rid of my Fiances BMW E90, and got an Audi Q5 instead. Way happier with that. the newer BMW's are just not that nice unless its the M package, and even then, still has its issues.
These Audi's are pretty easy to work on though once you understand them
So I have looked everywhere for fuel filter on a 2.0t 09 Audi A4
Do you know the location by chance because it’s not on the passenger rear.
They changed this year and there is no accessable fuel filter on your model of A4.
I have an Audi A4 2009 Quattro and it doesn’t look like the filter is in the same spot or maybe I’m just dumb and missing it
They changed the model in 2009, so its a little bit different for the A4. The filter is part of the fuel pump, no need to change it😁
@@Mechani_Cole thank you!
There’s no pressure in those fuel lines. Worst case, it drips a little bit more if you just leave the fuse in. The tank pump is low pressure - the high pressure pump is up in the engine bay, on the engine.
I've changed enough of these to know thats not true. Might not be "high pressure", but still plenty of pressure to spray gas in your face. Just drain it first, it's too easy
@@Mechani_Cole I'm not sure what you're doing to make them spray all over your face - maybe they just like you more than me - but even ELSA doesn't mention removing fuses and running it dry. Just to disconnect fuel lines, remove bolt, remove fuel filter.
How do you replace a fuel pump on a a4 2008
1st remove the carpet in the trunk the fuel pump is located back there on the passenger side. Then remove the screws holding the access panel in. This will give you access to the fuel pump then you will have to disconnect 2 fuel pump lines and one electronic connection. After that you'll have to remove the fuel pump ring that is holding the in which can be kind of difficult. Then you are able to lift out your fuel pump disconnect any remaining lines and swap out the new one. The fuel connect lines can also be difficult to remove with out breaking as well.
Here is a fuel pump that should fit - amzn.to/2YqtC1K
Also there is a High Pressure Fuel Pump located in the front of car on top of the engine. Make sure you know which one is bad first
Nice video and work, I have a question, I bought an audi a4 2005 quattro 2.0T It run good but I can't pass 85mph .
Thats interesting, does it seem like the RPM's are high? Does it run roughly at all?
@@Mechani_Cole rpm are fine, it's just that I can't pass 80mph when I'm stepping all the gas pedal on 5gear I don't get that push
@@jonathaanttv1222 Check Flex pipes. ALL INTAKE and ALL BOOST. Also the hose in the ECU and to and from the N75. Check for leaks. You will probably feel an oil residue. Which would mean to replace.
Have you cleaned your EGR/ Intake recently? you might be choking off. because there isnt enough PSI to run your turbo efficently/ effectivly. There for it cuts itself off to save itself. A lot of carbon build up in these engines.
Check those and post back. Also have your car scanned I bet you have a p1550 code. Pressure deviation. Even without a check engine light, there can still be a code. VagCom scanner will help sort that out.
Just done that today, it took an age to take them hose clips off.
Hi Rumel! Yes, I agree, they can be a pain in the a** for sure. Awesome that you got it done though!
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment, hope the video helped🤙🏼
@@Mechani_Cole no, thank you for posting up an easy tutorial. Nice little tip about the black clip on the single hose. Kinda stupid why its blue on the other side but then black on this one.
"Supposed to do this once a year”???? Says who, what, when, where?? Not even the Stealership or GreaseMonkey sells me/you that filter replacement once a year 🤔🤔🤔. Not at all sure why it's mentioned in your video.
Where did I say that? Fuel filters go 5 years easily before needing replaced
At 2:32 you say it's supposed to be done once a year, in your own video that you recorded and posted.
You're right. That was a mistake and I edited it out. Thanks for catching that. I changed all the filters that day so I was probably thinking of the air filter when I was speaking.
10/10