It seem the test string is giving a false reading, cut the string but not the fake hair, is this a common issue? I have had it happen so many times I am thinking of not testing on string,, any thoughts
Hi Bonnie, thanks for naking another great video. I keep running into this problem on fake fur when testing my blades just bog in even though everything seems sharp. Im thinking its the set back but not 100% What do you check next ? Thanks again.
I had this problem yesterday with someone I was training. Surprisingly we put in a new guide (the old felt rough) and voila... it cut! Also learned Altera blades seemed to need more set back.
Use rabbit fur for 3, 4 and 5 blades as they do not like to push through long fur. It even says that in the NB instructional video. You can use the string but it's not as accurate. It's messy and goes everywhere but it will always let you know properly.
I have rabbit fur and yes that is a better test on those blades. The string is what they use in the factory when I visited there. I think it may cut string and not perform well but if it doesn't cut string, there is no use wasting fur as a test.
sometimes I let the customer try them out first if that's convenient. If they are not around, I'll resharpen them and do a rub block test before assembly.
I hoped you missed that part. Lol. I let them all go back to the customer but a few were iffy and I wasn’t totally pleased. I am not a perfectionist, if I was, I would have resharpened two. I gave all a passing grade but not A+. You have to decide within yourself, your practical business production and your customer expectations how much time you spend on sharpening and what level is considered passing. If I was teaching, we would have taken them apart and done the rub block and resharpened those two. You need to aim for perfection but decide for yourself what is your acceptable level. Mine is somewhere in the middle of other sharpeners.
you don't need a special tool to add tension. slide the cutter out and use some small (I like the little 6 inch longs ones for this) slip joint pliers to squeeze the spring tighter. i am sure a special tools works too but i have several of these pliers and they work really well. you can apply just a little more tension or a lot. plain pliers are more likely to do damage. with the slip joint you can set the jaws of the pliers to just the right spacing to get good control. you need to use very small ones. the big ones will not have the right range of adjustment or fine control.
I hope you share this idea at the upcoming Sharpeners Jam. This could win a prize. If you can’t come in person video what you are talking about and send it so I can enter it in the contest. Deadline is July 1.
@@BonikaShears I am not sure how to upload a video. I can take one and hopefully it will come close to the quality of yours. BTW I really appreciate your helpful videos. I never knew what was causing dragging of some blades and not others. I just swap them out and eventually send a bunch for sharpening but I bet that some have others problems and really do not need sharpening. I have just two Standard Poodles that I clip and they were just clipped so I guess I need to get some faux fur for testing now that I have adjusted all 20 or so of my blades. I made a rub block and flattened it on my granite surface plate but I think I sanded it too fine because it does not work really well. Need to roughen it up a bit. I do various machining jobs but really like making tools as opposed to using them. If you have any ideas about a needed tool I might be able to figure something out. For example I have 69 year old fingers abused by many years of use and now have a little peripheral neuropathy as a side effect of chemo. It is a real challenge to put clipper blades back together without losing screws on the floor etc. Maybe I can figure out some sort of fixture to hold everything in alignment. I tend to go overboard and make tools that I might just use once or twice but it is fun.
Where can I get some rabbit fur? I sharpen for groomers and they fly through the fur like you use (red) but won’t cut the matted hair of larger dogs sometimes. All adjustments are correct. I was thinking I need some tougher hair to make sure they cut heavy hair. Literally just glide right through the fur.
This artificial fur seems tougher than rabbit. But we used to sell the rabbit fur. The place we bought from quit selling it. My suggestion is to buy some old fur coats. I have some that I bought at an auction. We will be selling them as part of the Sharpeners Jam in April. Be sure you are a part of the Sharpeners Jam Facebook group.
@@BonikaShears actually that is what I’ve done is buy some old coats! I’m currently in a situation with a new client where I sharpened 20 blades just like I’ve always sharpened them for clients and she says they just won’t cut but they fly through my fake fur. She is doing a lot of Pyrenees etc with matted fur so I was wondering if there was something that was tougher than the fur I use for me to test on. I love all your vids and learned some things I didn’t know from a few, on shears as well as blades! I will join the group! Thank you.
You may have ruined them. Watch this video and maybe you will understand. th-cam.com/video/tDMcXZXx0Ws/w-d-xo.htmlsi=6hkgD2lUYCovT1JY. You can send the blades to me and MAYBE I can fix them. bonika.com/products/clipper-blade-sharpening-with-pre-paid-mailing-label
Hi Bonnie. You can add tension once rebuilt using the “Wolff Stat Tool”. You just slide the cutter blade out, use the Stat tool to put some tension in or take it out and then use the tool again to help you put the cutter right back in. Really is worth getting in my view. Hope this helps 👍🏻 🏴
@@BonikaShears simpler way: remove the cutter then simply use vice grips to squeeze the spring about where the screws are. then i use a tiny flathead screwdriver to lift the spring (in the middle from the top of the blade) to slide the cutter back in. most of the time it works great, occasionally i still have to take it apart.
I'm all out of test string and have to wait for it to come in from the US. Any ideas on anything else I can use? I don't have any fur either....thanks in advance :o)
I dont know anything about clippers but this is very entertaining : )
Gee, thanks!
It seem the test string is giving a false reading, cut the string but not the fake hair, is this a common issue? I have had it happen so many times I am thinking of not testing on string,, any thoughts
I use the string because it is cheaper than fur and if it doesn't cut string, there is no need to test on fur.
Hi Bonnie, thanks for naking another great video.
I keep running into this problem on fake fur when testing my blades just bog in even though everything seems sharp.
Im thinking its the set back but not 100%
What do you check next ?
Thanks again.
I had this problem yesterday with someone I was training. Surprisingly we put in a new guide (the old felt rough) and voila... it cut! Also learned Altera blades seemed to need more set back.
@@BonikaShears thanks Bonnie that will be my next port of call then.
Use rabbit fur for 3, 4 and 5 blades as they do not like to push through long fur. It even says that in the NB instructional video.
You can use the string but it's not as accurate. It's messy and goes everywhere but it will always let you know properly.
I have rabbit fur and yes that is a better test on those blades. The string is what they use in the factory when I visited there. I think it may cut string and not perform well but if it doesn't cut string, there is no use wasting fur as a test.
Bonika i see. same problems like me. Good on string no work on fur. ther are big differenz between fur.🥴
how often do you need to change - get new ones- the blades?
When the rail is gone.
What do you do to the blades that drag through the fake fur?
sometimes I let the customer try them out first if that's convenient. If they are not around, I'll resharpen them and do a rub block test before assembly.
Hi bonnie i am from india i would like to ask you material is the sharpening wheel made of ??
The one I use is aluminum. Some are cast.
@@BonikaShears thank you madem
Thanks for that, Bonnie. Forgive me if I missed it, but all 4 "pass" or did you go back and work any of them after the cut test?
I hoped you missed that part. Lol. I let them all go back to the customer but a few were iffy and I wasn’t totally pleased. I am not a perfectionist, if I was, I would have resharpened two. I gave all a passing grade but not A+. You have to decide within yourself, your practical business production and your customer expectations how much time you spend on sharpening and what level is considered passing. If I was teaching, we would have taken them apart and done the rub block and resharpened those two. You need to aim for perfection but decide for yourself what is your acceptable level. Mine is somewhere in the middle of other sharpeners.
Thank you so much. I hear ya
you don't need a special tool to add tension. slide the cutter out and use some small (I like the little 6 inch longs ones for this) slip joint pliers to squeeze the spring tighter. i am sure a special tools works too but i have several of these pliers and they work really well. you can apply just a little more tension or a lot. plain pliers are more likely to do damage. with the slip joint you can set the jaws of the pliers to just the right spacing to get good control. you need to use very small ones. the big ones will not have the right range of adjustment or fine control.
I hope you share this idea at the upcoming Sharpeners Jam. This could win a prize. If you can’t come in person video what you are talking about and send it so I can enter it in the contest. Deadline is July 1.
@@BonikaShears I am not sure how to upload a video. I can take one and hopefully it will come close to the quality of yours. BTW I really appreciate your helpful videos. I never knew what was causing dragging of some blades and not others. I just swap them out and eventually send a bunch for sharpening but I bet that some have others problems and really do not need sharpening. I have just two Standard Poodles that I clip and they were just clipped so I guess I need to get some faux fur for testing now that I have adjusted all 20 or so of my blades. I made a rub block and flattened it on my granite surface plate but I think I sanded it too fine because it does not work really well. Need to roughen it up a bit. I do various machining jobs but really like making tools as opposed to using them. If you have any ideas about a needed tool I might be able to figure something out. For example I have 69 year old fingers abused by many years of use and now have a little peripheral neuropathy as a side effect of chemo. It is a real challenge to put clipper blades back together without losing screws on the floor etc. Maybe I can figure out some sort of fixture to hold everything in alignment. I tend to go overboard and make tools that I might just use once or twice but it is fun.
Where can I get some rabbit fur? I sharpen for groomers and they fly through the fur like you use (red) but won’t cut the matted hair of larger dogs sometimes. All adjustments are correct. I was thinking I need some tougher hair to make sure they cut heavy hair. Literally just glide right through the fur.
This artificial fur seems tougher than rabbit. But we used to sell the rabbit fur. The place we bought from quit selling it. My suggestion is to buy some old fur coats. I have some that I bought at an auction. We will be selling them as part of the Sharpeners Jam in April. Be sure you are a part of the Sharpeners Jam Facebook group.
@@BonikaShears actually that is what I’ve done is buy some old coats! I’m currently in a situation with a new client where I sharpened 20 blades just like I’ve always sharpened them for clients and she says they just won’t cut but they fly through my fake fur. She is doing a lot of Pyrenees etc with matted fur so I was wondering if there was something that was tougher than the fur I use for me to test on. I love all your vids and learned some things I didn’t know from a few, on shears as well as blades! I will join the group! Thank you.
I just sharpened my clipper blades. They are number ten blades. now they wont cut 😢 just like in your video... what do should i do 😭 I sharped 8
What equipment did you use? Is the tension correct?
@BonikaShears I used a 150 grit sand paper and 220 grit sand paper.
You may have ruined them. Watch this video and maybe you will understand. th-cam.com/video/tDMcXZXx0Ws/w-d-xo.htmlsi=6hkgD2lUYCovT1JY. You can send the blades to me and MAYBE I can fix them. bonika.com/products/clipper-blade-sharpening-with-pre-paid-mailing-label
Where do you find a blade scale?
Try our website www.Bonika.com
Do you sell the blade scale please
this is the link to order it bonika.com/collections/blade-sharpening-supplies/products/clipper-blade-test-scale
Hi Bonnie. You can add tension once rebuilt using the “Wolff Stat Tool”. You just slide the cutter blade out, use the Stat tool to put some tension in or take it out and then use the tool again to help you put the cutter right back in. Really is worth getting in my view. Hope this helps 👍🏻 🏴
I will get that and try it on a video! Thanks for the tip!
@@BonikaShears simpler way: remove the cutter then simply use vice grips to squeeze the spring about where the screws are. then i use a tiny flathead screwdriver to lift the spring (in the middle from the top of the blade) to slide the cutter back in. most of the time it works great, occasionally i still have to take it apart.
I'm all out of test string and have to wait for it to come in from the US. Any ideas on anything else I can use? I don't have any fur either....thanks in advance :o)
I don't know. Check on Facebook groups for a sharpening group in your country.
Camera setup is bad
I'll try better next time. No cameraman.