Thank you so much, Jim. I watched 3 other videos regarding this and yours was the best. My son and I completed the project in less than 2 hours including raising and securing car. We did break the axle nut loose while the wheel was on the ground, since we didn't have air tools or an impact wrench. Thanks again. GREAT job!
Jim, thank you for taking the time to do this. You absolutely covered everything, right down to the tone ring which the vehicle did not need. I could not have asked for a more thorough demonstration.
Hey man, I just watched this (2022) my granddaughter had a problem with her Hyandai front axel, and this STILL is informative and was very well explained and demonstrated..... thanks for posting this. it is amazing the TH-cam videos that are still here on the web and so helpful for all sorts of things!!!! Thanks Again!!
Jim, sir, this was a wonderful video. You are a great teacher. I'm getting ready to help my son with his accent and this video gave me all the understanding that I need. Thank you so much!
Appreciate your taking the time to provide this step-by-step video. I am in the process of replacing the clutch in my '02 Hyundai Accent after 180,000 miles of worry-free driving (knock wood). While removing the strut/knuckle bolts, I noticed that my driver's side CV joint boot was completely torn. While I have no clicking, as cheap as the entire assembly is (~$40) it doesn't really make "cents" to replace just the boot (~$15). I replaced an axle shaft on my '06 Crown Vic Interceptor last fall after a bearing failure that grooved the axle. That was a bear to get done compared to this. =) Thanks again and happy mechanicin'!
For those of you new to torque wrenches...or even those of you who've been using them for a while...65 foot pounds is when the torque wrench clicks...not a quarter turn after the wrench clicks. If you add a quarter turn, you have no idea how much torque you just applied. And here's another tip...if your nut/bolt isn't turning when the torque wrench is applying torque and clicks...the torque is already too high. Can't tell you how many times I've seen that in videos on TH-cam.That nut/bolt should be turning until the wrench clicks. That's the correct way to do it. How do I know. Because I worked in a calibration lab for 30 years and I was, for a while, the torque wrench calibration test/repair guy for all sorts and ranges of torque wrenches by various manufacturers.
Well done Jim. I service a late model Kia van and in the spring I was at the cottage so the van owner had another guy take his snows off and put the summers on. Ha - well every one of the wheel studs are stripped , just chowdered. The spec on this van is around 70 ft/ lbs max. and even at that with my torque wrench it feels like it's about to strip. He took it to the dealer and was quoted $400 to change out the studs. He did bring it to me after the price shock and the story Ha- I tried one nut and it just spins on the threads in reverse , never seen this before and told him to go back to buddy that rotated his tires for him for $5 less than me. LOL.
How do you know if it’s lock? I have set it 2 time and it feels like it’s lock but then it starts leaking afterwards and when I take it apart it comes out really easy so that means it wasn’t lock ? Any idea to be 100% sure it’s lock?
Hay Jim thanks so much for taking the time to do this video.! It helped out so much and I spent so much time less doing it right the first time around with your help . Thanks again
I too would like to thank you for your help. The Ford place ask 1600 to do this job which with your video took me a little more than two hours to change both axles of my 05 accent.
Question Jim. My 2002 hyundai has some play comming from the right side I've checked the wheel bearing it's nice and tight that's what I thought it was originally.... but seams to be else where... could the part where the axle meets the manual trans be loose? Like a bearing? Because thats where I have followed it, the whole axle moves together really but I thing it's more than it should for me to mistake it for a bearing.also concerns me is the seal dosent seam to be leaking from the trans now. I'm not 100% IM STILL LEARNING... ITS A MANUAL SO THERE SHOULDN'T BE ANYTHING LEAKING??... I mean there should be some kind of oil at least right? There's no sings... but I have a good amount of play to worry about. I'm thinking I will pull it because the boot is busted so it needs replaced anyway resealing/new boots dident work for me...
I just did a full front brake job in my mothers 05 accent, only 58k original miles on it. I discovered the axle boots were ripped on both sides, they aren't making any noise yet, but do you think I should replace the axles anyway? Thank you for posting the video it will help me out big time.
Hey Jim just subscribed to your channel and by far you have the best instructional video for cv axle replacement. Thank you for making that video. I have a question about cv axle replacement. I have an 08 Hyundai Accent SE hatchback. I’m certain that the driver side cv axle needs to be replaced. When I replace the driver side cv would I be wise to go ahead and change the passenger side as well? It seems to be ok for now but when I replace parts it just seems to make sense if one side has gone bad , how long do I have before the other side goes bad? What do you think?
Thanks very much Jim. I'm going to do the outer boot on a SANTE FE 2004. Cudn't get enough power and room to belt the outer CV JOINT off the axel becos Im working on the ground. Jack stands. To prevent any damage it wud be a lot easier to pry the whole axle shaft out as you illustrated in the video. Work on the axel in a vice. Kia ora (Stay well.)
No not the pry groves . When you tap the axle in you can feel when it is all the way in but before you remove the axle just look to see how far the original axle was.
@@jimthecarguyMy passenger-side axle fell out of the transmission. Supposedly, the previous owner had axle-work performed, and DEFINITELY had the alternator replaced. The 2005 Korean Sonata ran OK for about 2 months before the axle fell out. At some point previous to all this, the car had been hit in the RF fender ... 2.7 V6.
Great instruction here Jim. Would a 2014 Hyundai Azera left front axle replacement be the same? I also need to replace the strut but if it's the same as this then that will be pretty easy too.
I have an 06 Tucson 2.7 v6, I need to replace the alternator, which I'm given the impression I have to remove the CV Axle on the passenger side... can I only pop out the side that slides into the transmission without having to undo the Strut Assembly?
Excellent video! I have a 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe. There doesn't seem to be a dip stick or even any way to add fluid if needed. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Hey Jim great video. Got a 09 Accent that shutters or vibrates when upshifting. Could this be an inboard joint causing this. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.
Hey Jim , finally got an answer to your question. It has no codes in trans module or engine pcm. I have a noise/ rattle when it's cold but goes away when hot. It seems like torque converter shutter when it up shifts which could explain the noise. My first thought was an inboard cv joint because it does it in all gears except reverse. Any ideas about how to check the torque converter or where to go next? Thanks for your time!!
Great video, thanks, just performed this on my niece 05 Accent, only thing that threw me off, was I had to get a 1-1/4 socket to take the nut off. Thanks so much for the video.
Nice Vid, I'm just about to do this on my Hyundai Veracruz, i have one extra step as I'm also replacing the bearing hub. After watching this i feel much better about it, going to use my new airgun I've had in the box for the last 15 years ha ha!
Great job , should you not of torqued the spindle nut I always do , I was told years ago if the spindle nut was not torqued right it will wear out your wheel bearing .
Yes it should alway be torqued. After filming my videos I always go back and make sure that everything is tight and then torque. Good point.Thanks for watching
Thank you for this video. The axle on my 09 accent is not budging from the knuckle. I've tried giving it a few good hits with a 4lb hammer but no luck. Does anyone know how to remove a stuck axle?
the best way to get the axle to move is to put the axle nut on loosely then put the socket on the nut (2:25-2:50 in my video) and use a big hammer to knock it loose. Keep me posted.
Hi Jim. The end solution was to leave it be until the wheel bearing started to make noise. I end up having to get a used knuckle and axle. As the one I tried to remove to replace the boot was completely frozen in the knuckle. Once the bearing gave out, I took it to a friend who has a shop and press and we ended up destroying both the axle and knuckle trying to take it apart. Air hammer, press, heat ..nothing worked. My guess is it was corroded in the first place, the splines. And when the bearing went out it really cooked it and made the rust expend and basically rust welded it. Not exactly sure how this is possible. But I bought this vehicle used and didn't have any maintenance history on it. A friend of mine was moving to the states, for his wife to be closer to her family. I guess they were planning on buying a new car and didn't want to waste money on gas to drive it to Florida just to trade it in once they got settled. Im in Ontario. Anyway I bought it to fix up and use it as a commuter to and from work. It had 160km, 100k miles on the clock so I figured I can get a few years out it. Boy was I wrong. It was not well maintained from new. The good thing is I bought it cheap. So other than a bit of my time and a few bucks to fix it up, I guess it's not that bad of a vehicle. I still have it and use it. This was definitely a first for me, the axle being completely seized. I've seen rust jacking on brake pads but never on an axle. Who knows.. maybe someone was already in there. From what I know, my friend doesn't know anything about cars and took this vehicle to various corner shops and people who would work on it. Kids probably. As I found a few things that made me scratch my head. Missing battery hold down clamp, few clips broken. Someone was in there and didn't really know or care. Anyway, its all taken care of. I was going to drive it a couple of years and sell it to get a slightly newer vehicle but changed my mind. This little accent is pretty fuel efficient for commuting. I had a specific budget for this car. But i guess I can keep it and replace things as they wear out. I don't know much about these hyundais , other than a few common issues if you can call it that. Crank sensors go bad. Value covers leak, and ignition coils seem to not live as long as on other vehicles. Parts are fairly inexpensive, readily available and these cars are very basic and simple to work on . I can basically do most of the work on my driveway and I figure if it costs me around 300-500 bucks a year to keep it in tip top shape, its still worth to hang on to. Basically a single car payment to have a spare set of wheels. Once again, thank you for posting these videos. Best regards Peter.M
So did no one else have the issue of the strut spring expanding immediately? Also, there is no way the hub assembly will move enough to get the cv axle out. I am going to go at it again tomorrow nite, since I was already frustrated by the strut, but it looks like I will have to remove the nut attaching the hub assembly to the lower control arm. On the strut, I had to borrow McPherson strut spring compressors and compress it enough to get the strut out. It was pushing the axle down into the lower control arm. What a mess!
I spent 40 minutes more and a lot of hammering doing it the other way removing the lower control arm ball joint and the steering ball joint. Next time I'll do it your way.
Thank you so much, Jim. I watched 3 other videos regarding this and yours was the best. My son and I completed the project in less than 2 hours including raising and securing car. We did break the axle nut loose while the wheel was on the ground, since we didn't have air tools or an impact wrench. Thanks again. GREAT job!
Jim, thank you for taking the time to do this. You absolutely covered everything, right down to the tone ring which the vehicle did not need. I could not have asked for a more thorough demonstration.
Hey man, I just watched this (2022) my granddaughter had a problem with her Hyandai front axel, and this STILL is informative and was very well explained and demonstrated..... thanks for posting this. it is amazing the TH-cam videos that are still here on the web and so helpful for all sorts of things!!!! Thanks Again!!
Glad it helped
Jim, sir, this was a wonderful video. You are a great teacher. I'm getting ready to help my son with his accent and this video gave me all the understanding that I need. Thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Jim, first time cv axle replacement 03 Tiburon. First side took about an hour, second side 30 minutes. Couldn't have done it without you.
Great I'm happy to help.
This is one of the best step-by-step videos ive seen on how to replace a cv axle. Thankyou-sir for posting your video .
I'm happy to help. Watch for the next free tool giveaway coming soon.
Appreciate your taking the time to provide this step-by-step video. I am in the process of replacing the clutch in my '02 Hyundai Accent after 180,000 miles of worry-free driving (knock wood). While removing the strut/knuckle bolts, I noticed that my driver's side CV joint boot was completely torn. While I have no clicking, as cheap as the entire assembly is (~$40) it doesn't really make "cents" to replace just the boot (~$15). I replaced an axle shaft on my '06 Crown Vic Interceptor last fall after a bearing failure that grooved the axle. That was a bear to get done compared to this. =) Thanks again and happy mechanicin'!
This is something I need to tackle now as both axels need to be replaced on my car at the moment..Thanks Jim !
The bolts where the cv axle goes into, the ring with 5 12mm bolt, what is that part???
For those of you new to torque wrenches...or even those of you who've been using them for a while...65 foot pounds is when the torque wrench clicks...not a quarter turn after the wrench clicks. If you add a quarter turn, you have no idea how much torque you just applied. And here's another tip...if your nut/bolt isn't turning when the torque wrench is applying torque and clicks...the torque is already too high. Can't tell you how many times I've seen that in videos on TH-cam.That nut/bolt should be turning until the wrench clicks. That's the correct way to do it. How do I know. Because I worked in a calibration lab for 30 years and I was, for a while, the torque wrench calibration test/repair guy for all sorts and ranges of torque wrenches by various manufacturers.
Thank you!! I wanted to leave the same comment, but without expertise, just common sense. Or so I thought.
Seems like day 1 stuff to me.
So 4 ugadugga no?
Well done Jim. I service a late model Kia van and in the spring I was at the cottage so the van owner had another guy take his snows off and put the summers on. Ha - well every one of the wheel studs are stripped , just chowdered. The spec on this van is around 70 ft/ lbs max. and even at that with my torque wrench it feels like it's about to strip. He took it to the dealer and was quoted $400 to change out the studs. He did bring it to me after the price shock and the story Ha- I tried one nut and it just spins on the threads in reverse , never seen this before and told him to go back to buddy that rotated his tires for him for $5 less than me. LOL.
+Steve Rob Good story Steve .I always say you get what you pay for :)
How do you know if it’s lock? I have set it 2 time and it feels like it’s lock but then it starts leaking afterwards and when I take it apart it comes out really easy so that means it wasn’t lock ?
Any idea to be 100% sure it’s lock?
Hay Jim thanks so much for taking the time to do this video.! It helped out so much and I spent so much time less doing it right the first time around with your help . Thanks again
Great video and very specific on how to do it! Would I need to do an alignment after replacing the axles?
I too would like to thank you for your help. The Ford place ask 1600 to do this job which with your video took me a little more than two hours to change both axles of my 05 accent.
Thank U! Step by step, Str8 to the point with no BS . Well done!!!
Really nicely done video and clear explanation Jim. About to do my sister in laws car, both axles thought Id look for a refresher. Thanks mate.
Glad it was helpful!
Question Jim.
My 2002 hyundai has some play comming from the right side I've checked the wheel bearing it's nice and tight that's what I thought it was originally.... but seams to be else where... could the part where the axle meets the manual trans be loose? Like a bearing? Because thats where I have followed it, the whole axle moves together really but I thing it's more than it should for me to mistake it for a bearing.also concerns me is the seal dosent seam to be leaking from the trans now. I'm not 100% IM STILL LEARNING... ITS A MANUAL SO THERE SHOULDN'T BE ANYTHING LEAKING??... I mean there should be some kind of oil at least right? There's no sings... but I have a good amount of play to worry about. I'm thinking I will pull it because the boot is busted so it needs replaced anyway resealing/new boots dident work for me...
I just did a full front brake job in my mothers 05 accent, only 58k original miles on it. I discovered the axle boots were ripped on both sides, they aren't making any noise yet, but do you think I should replace the axles anyway? Thank you for posting the video it will help me out big time.
There may be a LITTLE leaking when you remove the axle? LoL Mine spewed all over the place.
Thanks for the instruction. it helped a lot
Nice video Jim..You made it look easy enough for even me to do..Much appreciated...
Hey Jim just subscribed to your channel and by far you have the best instructional video for cv axle replacement. Thank you for making that video. I have a question about cv axle replacement. I have an 08 Hyundai Accent SE hatchback. I’m certain that the driver side cv axle needs to be replaced. When I replace the driver side cv would I be wise to go ahead and change the passenger side as well? It seems to be ok for now but when I replace parts it just seems to make sense if one side has gone bad , how long do I have before the other side goes bad? What do you think?
Thanks very much Jim. I'm going to do the outer boot on a SANTE FE 2004. Cudn't get enough power and room to belt the outer CV JOINT off the axel becos Im working on the ground. Jack stands. To prevent any damage it wud be a lot easier to pry the whole axle shaft out as you illustrated in the video. Work on the axel in a vice. Kia ora (Stay well.)
You just saved me over 300 bucks in labor!
How did you know the axle was in the trans by looking? Was it the pry groove you were looking for? Thanks
No not the pry groves . When you tap the axle in you can feel when it is all the way in but before you remove the axle just look to see how far the original axle was.
@@jimthecarguyMy passenger-side axle fell out of the transmission. Supposedly, the previous owner had axle-work performed, and
DEFINITELY had the alternator
replaced. The 2005 Korean Sonata ran OK for about 2 months before the axle fell out.
At some point previous to all this, the car had been hit in the
RF fender ... 2.7 V6.
Excellent video. To the point. Good camera work and narration.
Keith Johanson thank you for stopping by the shop
great video! Do you have a video on the passenger side?
Great instruction here Jim. Would a 2014 Hyundai Azera left front axle replacement be the same? I also need to replace the strut but if it's the same as this then that will be pretty easy too.
Yes it should be the same procedureThanks for watching.
Great, thanks for the confirmation!
Great to find this video. I need to do an 04' Accent so should be the same.
Do you know roughly the torque on the spindle nut?
Between 160ft/lb and 190ft/lb
I know this is 3yr old, but just in case someone else is looking.
Great video. You really make it easy to change the axle. Subscribed!!!
does unbolting the strut affect the front ends alignment? do you need a front end alignment after doing the axle?
Good question.Yes you should have the wheel alignment check after you finish the job.
quick question, would this be the same process for a RWD car ??
NO, except maybe VW Beetle, Porsche, Corvair
I have an 06 Tucson 2.7 v6, I need to replace the alternator, which I'm given the impression I have to remove the CV Axle on the passenger side... can I only pop out the side that slides into the transmission without having to undo the Strut Assembly?
Any tricks if you cant get ground clearance?
Excellent video! I have a 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe. There doesn't seem to be a dip stick or even any way to add fluid if needed. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Troy Check your owner's manual. You might have to go through the side of the transmission.
jimthecarguy Thank you for the quick reply.
There is no dip stick. Hyundai says the trans is "sealed for life."
Hello, you don't need to align the car afterwards?
Hi car guy thanks for the video it was really helpful just had a question for you will it be same process for 2010 huyndai Santa Fe 2.4L. thanks
Yes it will be the same. I'm happy to help. Watch for the next free tool giveaway coming soon.
Hey Jim great video. Got a 09 Accent that shutters or vibrates when upshifting. Could this be an inboard joint causing this. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.
Is there any codes in the trans computer?
Hey Jim , finally got an answer to your question. It has no codes in trans module or engine pcm. I have a noise/ rattle when it's cold but goes away when hot. It seems like torque converter shutter when it up shifts which could explain the noise. My first thought was an inboard cv joint because it does it in all gears except reverse. Any ideas about how to check the torque converter or where to go next? Thanks for your time!!
Do you think it will be pretty much the same procedure on a 08 Santa Fe?
Very comprehensive, thank you.
Another well done video, Jim. I seldom torque the strut bolts but I always torque the axle nut.
+wysetech2000 Thank you for your feedback and for your input.Jim
Thanks for the video so glad I found it. Does the washer close to the hub nut makes clicking noise in Elantra 2013? it's a palstic washer isn't it?
Thank you for stopping by the shop.It should not make any noise
Great video, thanks, just performed this on my niece 05 Accent, only thing that threw me off, was I had to get a 1-1/4 socket to take the nut off. Thanks so much for the video.
Thank you for watching and your input
How do ya change da seal that leaks
You're a good mechanic my friend
Thanks for the visit
Nice Vid, I'm just about to do this on my Hyundai Veracruz, i have one extra step as I'm also replacing the bearing hub. After watching this i feel much better about it, going to use my new airgun I've had in the box for the last 15 years ha ha!
Did your air gun dry out inside! 😂
do you have to replace the transmission fluid that is lost and if so where does it go?
Yes you should always check the fluid after the repair.If the fluid is needed it goes into the dip stick tube with a funnel.
+jimthecarguy appreciate it!
Great job , should you not of torqued the spindle nut I always do , I was told years ago if the spindle nut was not torqued right it will wear out your wheel bearing .
Yes it should alway be torqued. After filming my videos I always go back and make sure that everything is tight and then torque. Good point.Thanks for watching
Thank goodness for this video, seeing as I’d much rather do this myself than pay $250 for it to be installed in a shop.
I'm happy to help. Thanks for watching
I have a 2007 Hyundai Azera. I have to CV axles. It's basically the same principle. Correct.
Were u able to to the axles? I have the same car and have to do the same thing too
Ur the man jimmy!!!
Thank you for this video. The axle on my 09 accent is not budging from the knuckle. I've tried giving it a few good hits with a 4lb hammer but no luck. Does anyone know how to remove a stuck axle?
the best way to get the axle to move is to put the axle nut on loosely then put the socket on the nut (2:25-2:50 in my video) and use a big hammer to knock it loose. Keep me posted.
Hi Jim. The end solution was to leave it be until the wheel bearing started to make noise.
I end up having to get a used knuckle and axle. As the one I tried to remove to replace the boot was completely frozen in the knuckle. Once the bearing gave out, I took it to a friend who has a shop and press and we ended up destroying both the axle and knuckle trying to take it apart. Air hammer, press, heat ..nothing worked.
My guess is it was corroded in the first place, the splines. And when the bearing went out it really cooked it and made the rust expend and basically rust welded it. Not exactly sure how this is possible. But I bought this vehicle used and didn't have any maintenance history on it. A friend of mine was moving to the states, for his wife to be closer to her family. I guess they were planning on buying a new car and didn't want to waste money on gas to drive it to Florida just to trade it in once they got settled. Im in Ontario. Anyway I bought it to fix up and use it as a commuter to and from work. It had 160km, 100k miles on the clock so I figured I can get a few years out it. Boy was I wrong. It was not well maintained from new. The good thing is I bought it cheap. So other than a bit of my time and a few bucks to fix it up, I guess it's not that bad of a vehicle. I still have it and use it.
This was definitely a first for me, the axle being completely seized. I've seen rust jacking on brake pads but never on an axle. Who knows.. maybe someone was already in there.
From what I know, my friend doesn't know anything about cars and took this vehicle to various corner shops and people who would work on it. Kids probably. As I found a few things that made me scratch my head. Missing battery hold down clamp, few clips broken. Someone was in there and didn't really know or care. Anyway, its all taken care of.
I was going to drive it a couple of years and sell it to get a slightly newer vehicle but changed my mind. This little accent is pretty fuel efficient for commuting.
I had a specific budget for this car. But i guess I can keep it and replace things as they wear out. I don't know much about these hyundais , other than a few common issues if you can call it that. Crank sensors go bad. Value covers leak, and ignition coils seem to not live as long as on other vehicles.
Parts are fairly inexpensive, readily available and these cars are very basic and simple to work on .
I can basically do most of the work on my driveway and I figure if it costs me around 300-500 bucks a year to keep it in tip top shape, its still worth to hang on to.
Basically a single car payment to have a spare set of wheels.
Once again, thank you for posting these videos.
Best regards
Peter.M
2013 sonata Drivers side, do you have to drain transmission?
No need to just put a bucket under the axle before you pull it out.
It's a pretty nice job, thanks.
Do you have a video on how to replace the seal once you removed the axle, if anyone has any links to this i would greatly appreciate it.
+Craig Hackett Sorry I don't have one but I will in the future.
+jimthecarguy OK Thanks..
Really helpful 👍🏾
Is it the same process on a 2013?
Yes it should be almost exactly the same
Clean Work
So did no one else have the issue of the strut spring expanding immediately? Also, there is no way the hub assembly will move enough to get the cv axle out. I am going to go at it again tomorrow nite, since I was already frustrated by the strut, but it looks like I will have to remove the nut attaching the hub assembly to the lower control arm. On the strut, I had to borrow McPherson strut spring compressors and compress it enough to get the strut out. It was pushing the axle down into the lower control arm. What a mess!
Thank you Jim.
+Ali ALGERIA Happy to help.Thanks for your watching
I spent 40 minutes more and a lot of hammering doing it the other way removing the lower control arm ball joint and the steering ball joint. Next time I'll do it your way.
you gotta torque the axle nut otherwise if overtighten you are going to wear the bearings
Why didn't u just loosen the ball joint instead
drivers axle easy its the passenger axle diff
👍👍🙂
u fail as a mechanic u did not torque the axle nut