And more specifically a MacPherson Strut system. Personally always wondered how it works as it manages to mostly keep the wheel geometry throughout the travel range. It just never seemed like it should at first glance, but it does, and it is a lot more flexible around the strut tower than I imagined.
you guys deserve more credit for this. this makes it so much easier to visualize all the parts i hope this can become a regular series for other segments of the vehicle
Suspensions are underappreciated until you've gotten right down into that wheel well and replaced everything. Last time for me was three and a-half years ago. Im sorry that i didn't take a picture or two of the cavity that existed before we installed all of the new parts.
@@matthewcurrie5963 It's satisfying to put everything back together, hopefully the right way, then think 'I did that.' Extra satisfying if pieces don't work their way loose or fall off inside of a week. I must have quadruple-checked mine and performed frequent visual inspections for a month or two.
You really do, I've been and done exactly that to my Rover, everything up front has been renewed or replaced. Powdercoated the subframes and the roll bar as well as reundersealing the whole thing.
Stabilizer link > Stabilizer bar bushings > Ball joint > Tie rod end > control arm bushings > Shock absorber mount > Shock absorber > CV joint > Spring > Driveshaft
@@ChadDidNothingWrong No, I launch 600HP through a gearbox designed for 200HP haha. The gearbox can take it, the axles are struggling a little more. But knockoff shafts are €160 each and they last about 100 launches or 5000km of spirited driving. So i swap them pretty much every time i need to swap tyres.
This is actually a good video to show customers if you own a shop. If they’re dealing with a suspension problem you can show they which part and what job it does.
100% axles too id say, not as often but they are up there on. People drive crazy these days so id say 1 out of eveey 10 cars that come into a shop have a leaky axle boot if not clicking or vibrating
@@Happyh0b0 Spot on. If you've never had a front wheel detach at highway speed due to a ball joint issue, you've probably never driven a Falcon. Regular maintenance is key at the first sign of a ball joint issue on em. Its actuyally odd for a car that can regularly do 800,000 k's without breaking a sweat - but its defnatly got weak ankles.
@@donziperk Lols. I'm sure Ford Australia looked at Dodge and said "hold my beer!" i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii2/PhilMeUpBaby/BF_Falcon_Ball_Joints/Taxi_Wheel_6_22_1_2009.jpg
But they wear so slowly your brain makes slight adjustments and you are not aware of the deterioration of the ride quality until the shock/strut is 100% dead.
@@notbappo2435how do i check if they are ok? I have a q50 with almost 40k miles but there seems to be a pulsing/slight vibration in steering wheel and pedal at about 80mph 😢 idk if its bearings, ball joints or just low brakes ( I definitely have to replace rear pads and possible rotors)
@@Itsyunlo Look at your tires, is the side with the sounds more unevenly worn down? this could indicate a bad balljoint. Is the steering loose, does it feel loose while its driving? as if its wondering around on the road? I'd say though that your balljoints are yes likely going bad especially if you can feel it in the steering wheel. Please, take it in for a check over on specifically the balljoints (and specify the joints only) and refrain from driving the vehicle until you're 100% if its the ball joints or not. When a balljoint fails, its bad and instant, extremely bad if it happens while driving.
@Mitsubishiest lol i noticed it had a single ball joint after commenting but oh wale I'm just used to working on 4wd truck/suv😅leave my childhood name alone okay😂
If he wants to break something it can be done in 5 seconds. FWD, spin the fuck out of the wheels on full lock, CV should pop right off. We definitely haven't had one of the work's vans drop the CV off several times.
Depends on if its wear your talking about, pot hole damage, gutter damage. Poor installation damage (also known as apprentice damage), what make/model the vehicle is, how much HP, how big the tires are, how big the sidewalls are, what the quality is of each individual part, the road surface etc. A breif example, super soft tires, on a drag strip, high HP engine the CV joints or drive shaft tend to break first esp on FWD vehicles. If you hit a pothole, or have your vehicle slide into a rock on an offroad track your tie rod end will bend first. Spurce: ex mechanic.
Any mechanics or people with some car knowledge want to try to diagnose my problem online? I have a 2016 Ford Escape, and every time I turn right, accelerate hard, and/or hit a bump in the road, it sounds like my right wheel wants to come off/loud clunking.
but sabilizer is not doing so much work as other parts. Also if you have lowered or stiff spring car they take a ton of time to go out. My 2 cars have them on for 10 years and combined 40 000km and i just replaced them because it felt that i should and could not get one loose.
On this vehicle since it's front wheel drive, the weak point is usually the shock, usually the shock will cave in first, then if the impact is bad enough it'll typically bend the wheel hub, also if you have a worn out plastic sway bar link, that can shatter.
Probably the lower ball joint will go first. Green, the the sway bar link, tie rod end then shock absorber. Probably the shock absorber goes out without notice and destroys the rest. So if this is a trick question then let’s go blue. 🤷♂️
First need to address "breaking" vs "wearing out". Wear is going to happen faster when there is more movement and pressure on said part, as well as something that has more moving parts to it. Springs are a solid piece of metal so unless they are under rated for the job they are likely going to outlast all the other parts since they all have other factors involved. Next just looking I would personally say the Stabilizer bar link because it is constantly moving/twisting and has multiple points of failure. However from experience shocks aren't built to last very long and lose pressure gradually over time, and tie rod ends tend to wear fast as well. At the end if any of the parts are going bad its also going to effect the others wearing out faster because they aren't doing their job fully. If you can afford to change things out at once you might as well do the shocks, stabilizer bar, and tie rod end at the same time since its all going to be easy to get too at once. And now and again be sure to check the lube on the other pieces so they don't dry up.
Look up "metal fatigue". Springs *will* fail eventually unless replaced. They can lose their stiffness or simply break, and I've seen both happen. I've also had shocks go out early, driving on tarmac.
Of the components listed I’d suspect stabilizer bar first but ball joints and bushings will likely wear away before one of these more crucial components fail....
Not ONE COMMENT About the Worn inner edge of Tire ??? Off Camber Or Out Of Alignment. Tow out can put strain on the steering rack links. Depending on Brand of Vehicle some models have issues with different parts. Like say a weak inter tie rod. If this inner wear is from incorrect camber it would put undue stress on the upper and lower ball joint. The lower taking greater force and usually failing sooner... The Road itself is very mild and should cause no excessive wear to a typical vehicle with no known suspension structural deficiencies.
Thanks for commenting and watching the video, I agree with you about the wear of the tire, and it is already running for the last summer season, after which I will replace it 👍
CONTROL ARMS = everything ! Ball joints upper and lower, bushes , Then CVS/drive shafts, wheel bearing ALL BALLJOINTS THEY TAKE A POUNDING (4X4 off roading )
Those are cv axles not driveshafts. Driveshaft connects transmission to diff. Cv axles spin wheels. And tie rods are called tie rods. Theres inner and outer that connect to the steering rack
lower A arm bearing "green" because it's bolted on not press fit ....tie rod is not too far behind so replace both....if my wife was driving this car Strut would be next 😊
Looks like pretty normal driving. In my experience, ball joints, end links and tie rod ends can last as little as 1 or 2 years if they were cheap. Most suspension parts are designed for 50k miles.
Really everyone, shock are the first thing you replace, they only last 30k miles , way before any bushing , ball joint, or control will go out. Unless of course you hit a curbs or 6 in pot holes every day
If I learned anything about cars over the years, it's that all these components will basically go out all together, and should be replaced all together, otherwise, you just chase your tail, and prematurely break what you already replaced.
Generally, even the cheapest joints don't come apart before metal bends. Not saying balls don't come out of sockets, but it's usually due to an accident. Metal can bend just from harsh bumps.
All balljoints always go first, stabilizer link, tie rod end too. At old age spring may break one of it's ends off, and some people don't even notice it. On gravel roads, wheel hub ball bearing may randomly die because small sand grains surpass the plastic protective stuff and work their magic inside. Soon you get play and noise when driving straight, or in corners in beginning.
Assuming all are in good condition, calipers(more less the fluid inside) will overheat and seize before anything else breaks. Those parts typically last AT LEAST 50,000 miles. So a beating it should be able to handle. So long as it has stock performance as well. But brakes are not made to be beat on. You can stomp on them, in an emergency. But you shouldn’t regularly.
I was also under the impression this was a track car. Upon watching it again it looks to be more of a road condition test. In which my input doesn’t make much sense
I am not an engineer or vehicle designer but is it a good idea to place the part controlling your front wheels so low? I mean it may get hit by tall enough debris or and get damaged.
![ผัวเถื่อน - ยูริ โตเกียวมิวสิค [ OFFICIAL MUSIC VIDEO ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/P08ORRVDGl8/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for taking the time to colour code those components, nice video!
Thanks a lot
I don't get what's going on.
@george746 Wow. The video is literally like a "Vechile Suspension At Work For Dunmies" 😂😂😂
@@804MRMAN I get the color part.
@@george746 What's the confusing part then?
Colour coding really does make learning easier 😮
**Colorblind people left the chat.**
Can you elucidate what you learnt? I'd be very interested... and I mean very
@@markholmspielvogel2881 "can you elucidate..." ☝🏽🤓
Why leave CV joint out ?, after all you put drives shaft in there
There’s no u in color piece
Of
Trash
Insanely cool way to show someone the workings of a suspension system
Thank you
And more specifically a MacPherson Strut system. Personally always wondered how it works as it manages to mostly keep the wheel geometry throughout the travel range. It just never seemed like it should at first glance, but it does, and it is a lot more flexible around the strut tower than I imagined.
damn the cameraman is hella bold
😀👍
The camera is mounted
Stop with these unoriginal idiot comments
@@03kwam65r/whoosh
@@03kwam65where is the man then?
you guys deserve more credit for this. this makes it so much easier to visualize all the parts i hope this can become a regular series for other segments of the vehicle
Thank you so much. Your comment gives motivation for the next videos 👍
Stabilizer bar true story
Stab link not bar
@@BleedingWhiteKnucklesdepends on which one goes out first. Could be the bar or the link
@@BleedingWhiteKnuckleswhy not both?
@@BleedingWhiteKnuckles my stabilizer bar broke in half one time
Those who know, know 😂
stabalizer links will make noise but ball joints usually go first, then control arm bushings, then tie rods.
for reals. currently what ‘04 G35 coupe is going thru bouta hit it with a complete suspension overhaul hopefully sooner than later
On European cars, the bushings usually need to be replaced at 60-80k miles and balljoints replaced the next time the bushing is bad
Suspensions are underappreciated until you've gotten right down into that wheel well and replaced everything. Last time for me was three and a-half years ago. Im sorry that i didn't take a picture or two of the cavity that existed before we installed all of the new parts.
Omg yes. I had to replace the whole front suspension in my 2011 silverado. It’s quite spacious in there when all the parts are out of the way😂
@@matthewcurrie5963 It's satisfying to put everything back together, hopefully the right way, then think 'I did that.' Extra satisfying if pieces don't work their way loose or fall off inside of a week. I must have quadruple-checked mine and performed frequent visual inspections for a month or two.
You really do, I've been and done exactly that to my Rover, everything up front has been renewed or replaced. Powdercoated the subframes and the roll bar as well as reundersealing the whole thing.
@@majoriix That feeling of renewal is very satisfying, more so because of knowing you'd seen to it yourself. Best wishes!
I’m in that boot now and it’s a frustrating process
Stabilizer link > Stabilizer bar bushings > Ball joint > Tie rod end > control arm bushings > Shock absorber mount > Shock absorber > CV joint > Spring > Driveshaft
My driveshafts tend to break the fastest...
You aren't topping off your driveshaft fluid are you@@Laylander
@@ChadDidNothingWrong No, I launch 600HP through a gearbox designed for 200HP haha. The gearbox can take it, the axles are struggling a little more. But knockoff shafts are €160 each and they last about 100 launches or 5000km of spirited driving. So i swap them pretty much every time i need to swap tyres.
This is actually a good video to show customers if you own a shop. If they’re dealing with a suspension problem you can show they which part and what job it does.
Thanks a lot
Control arm bushings specifically in a BMW 🤣
I feel you 🤣🤣 my e90 been hungry for my wallet...
This facts just did mine shit was a bitch gotta do my rear trailing arm bushings too now on my e36
@@nitrosakebought a used e91 and the squeeking is killing me, 12 inch subs masks the sound just fine though😉
@kariej8972 The diff bushings are a bitch 🤣
Brake support bushing or thrust arm bushing 😊
Balljoints and sway bar links are the two things I change the most of and some tie rod ends as well
100% axles too id say, not as often but they are up there on. People drive crazy these days so id say 1 out of eveey 10 cars that come into a shop have a leaky axle boot if not clicking or vibrating
How much the going rate to swap out tie rod ends?
Inner as well?
Sway bars all the timeee
I own multiple commercial trucks and those always break first
@@leojohnwayne1422about $140 in parts for both sides of my jeep
In my RWD BA LTD, it's always the ball joints. Always....
But why. My guess was the tire rod with lateral g force from cornering
@@adrianrivera8425just a ford falcon thing
My 98 3500 Dodge Truck has taught me how to quickly change its ball joints. Weak ass piece of crap design.
@@Happyh0b0 Spot on. If you've never had a front wheel detach at highway speed due to a ball joint issue, you've probably never driven a Falcon. Regular maintenance is key at the first sign of a ball joint issue on em. Its actuyally odd for a car that can regularly do 800,000 k's without breaking a sweat - but its defnatly got weak ankles.
@@donziperk Lols. I'm sure Ford Australia looked at Dodge and said "hold my beer!"
i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii2/PhilMeUpBaby/BF_Falcon_Ball_Joints/Taxi_Wheel_6_22_1_2009.jpg
Shock absorbers are the most victims to bumpy and rocky roads
But they wear so slowly your brain makes slight adjustments and you are not aware of the deterioration of the ride quality until the shock/strut is 100% dead.
*stabilizer bar has left the chat*
yeah they're usually the last on the list to fail
Balljoints always, if you've ever replaced a balljoint you'll see how tiny those shafts are.
i bet ur shaft is tiny with the balls out of the way
One might consider the size to be quite normal.
@@9ZERO6 Some would even say above average.
Others would say size doesn't matter at all.
This is why God gave you 5 articulating fingers...and a fist for emergencies@@Mucky_Muck
Ball joints will definitely be the first to go bad
Is that the same thing if you have wheel spacers also?
@@Fordfocusstmk3250 I've heard especially if you have wheel spacers yes.
@@notbappo2435how do i check if they are ok? I have a q50 with almost 40k miles but there seems to be a pulsing/slight vibration in steering wheel and pedal at about 80mph 😢 idk if its bearings, ball joints or just low brakes ( I definitely have to replace rear pads and possible rotors)
@@notbappo2435 ty dude
@@Itsyunlo Look at your tires, is the side with the sounds more unevenly worn down? this could indicate a bad balljoint. Is the steering loose, does it feel loose while its driving? as if its wondering around on the road? I'd say though that your balljoints are yes likely going bad especially if you can feel it in the steering wheel. Please, take it in for a check over on specifically the balljoints (and specify the joints only) and refrain from driving the vehicle until you're 100% if its the ball joints or not. When a balljoint fails, its bad and instant, extremely bad if it happens while driving.
You guys unequivocally have the best automotive shorts.
Thank you my friend. I am very pleased
The part made by a lazy unionized employee breaks first.
I learned more from this than trying to learn from google, this is the simplest video to understand thank you
Thanks for the comment, I tried my best
Usually a ball joint
This is a fwd so no ball joints in sight
@@AllTerpsNoBrakeswhat is the hub pivoting on then, thin air?
Don't comment on shit ya have no idea about bud go back to being a beast on ur ps3
@Mitsubishiest lol i noticed it had a single ball joint after commenting but oh wale I'm just used to working on 4wd truck/suv😅leave my childhood name alone okay😂
@@AllTerpsNoBrakes 🤣🤣🤣🤣 all good man 👌
with that driving, I'll say the fuel, and in a long time, the road looks smooth and neat
If he wants to break something it can be done in 5 seconds. FWD, spin the fuck out of the wheels on full lock, CV should pop right off.
We definitely haven't had one of the work's vans drop the CV off several times.
Depends on if its wear your talking about, pot hole damage, gutter damage. Poor installation damage (also known as apprentice damage), what make/model the vehicle is, how much HP, how big the tires are, how big the sidewalls are, what the quality is of each individual part, the road surface etc.
A breif example, super soft tires, on a drag strip, high HP engine the CV joints or drive shaft tend to break first esp on FWD vehicles.
If you hit a pothole, or have your vehicle slide into a rock on an offroad track your tie rod end will bend first.
Spurce: ex mechanic.
thank you for sharing your experience, thanks for the comment
If you don't buy a Honda or Toyota, they will all break.
In my case it was the lower control arm. Luckily it wasn't the section closer to the wheel, otherwise I might not have made it home.
Forgot the axle grease😂
Impressed with the colors and it's clean af!
Thanks a lot
The stabilizer link will wear out first, not much actually breaks.
Really?
On any car?
How many miles until you notice?
Any mechanics or people with some car knowledge want to try to diagnose my problem online? I have a 2016 Ford Escape, and every time I turn right, accelerate hard, and/or hit a bump in the road, it sounds like my right wheel wants to come off/loud clunking.
Hmmm 🤔
I think it could be the “Ford” bit 😂😂
Simple! The first one of course!
Stabilizer! Always, remember the thinnest connection, and part always breaks.
but sabilizer is not doing so much work as other parts. Also if you have lowered or stiff spring car they take a ton of time to go out. My 2 cars have them on for 10 years and combined 40 000km and i just replaced them because it felt that i should and could not get one loose.
@@arva1kesyou barely drive them huh?
Been replacing all of that shit
On this vehicle since it's front wheel drive, the weak point is usually the shock, usually the shock will cave in first, then if the impact is bad enough it'll typically bend the wheel hub, also if you have a worn out plastic sway bar link, that can shatter.
Thanks a lot
you can make everything last 50 years....but you make it so that you know the exact day when it will break
First time i saw underside of a Polo Harlequin!
Probably the lower ball joint will go first. Green, the the sway bar link, tie rod end then shock absorber. Probably the shock absorber goes out without notice and destroys the rest. So if this is a trick question then let’s go blue. 🤷♂️
First need to address "breaking" vs "wearing out". Wear is going to happen faster when there is more movement and pressure on said part, as well as something that has more moving parts to it.
Springs are a solid piece of metal so unless they are under rated for the job they are likely going to outlast all the other parts since they all have other factors involved.
Next just looking I would personally say the Stabilizer bar link because it is constantly moving/twisting and has multiple points of failure.
However from experience shocks aren't built to last very long and lose pressure gradually over time, and tie rod ends tend to wear fast as well.
At the end if any of the parts are going bad its also going to effect the others wearing out faster because they aren't doing their job fully.
If you can afford to change things out at once you might as well do the shocks, stabilizer bar, and tie rod end at the same time since its all going to be easy to get too at once. And now and again be sure to check the lube on the other pieces so they don't dry up.
thank you for sharing your experience 👍👍👍
Look up "metal fatigue". Springs *will* fail eventually unless replaced. They can lose their stiffness or simply break, and I've seen both happen. I've also had shocks go out early, driving on tarmac.
Sway bar link
Sway bar links seem to go bad most often.
My old 2003 jeep got out of commission from a bad ball joint that collapsed. Watch out for those joints
Of the components listed I’d suspect stabilizer bar first but ball joints and bushings will likely wear away before one of these more crucial components fail....
Stabilizer bar link
Can everyone take a second to appreciate the camera placement and durability to hold in pace with no vibrations 🎉
thanks for the comment
Driver legs😂😂
👍👍😀
Lol
Ох, макферсон расписали, спасибо, он же так сложно устроен))) хотя самой главной его "фишки" на видео нет.
Старались то что попадет в камеру. Спасибо 👍
From the hours of beamng I’ve played I’m gonna say the steering rod would break first
The guy that was filming did a really good job
Thanks a lot
The tire lmao
You aren't wrong acutally.
Stabilizer bar link feels like something that could easely break. But it looks easy to replace if it starts to become bruised.
I guess nothing would brake. Never changed anything in my old honda driving over very bad pots every day
Not ONE COMMENT About the Worn inner edge of Tire ???
Off Camber Or Out Of Alignment.
Tow out can put strain on the steering rack links. Depending on Brand of Vehicle some models have issues with different parts. Like say a weak inter tie rod.
If this inner wear is from incorrect camber it would put undue stress on the upper and lower ball joint. The lower taking greater force and usually failing sooner...
The Road itself is very mild and should cause no excessive wear to a typical vehicle with no known suspension structural deficiencies.
Thanks for commenting and watching the video, I agree with you about the wear of the tire, and it is already running for the last summer season, after which I will replace it 👍
Try it in the uk roads, that one looks silky smooth
Indonesian roads would obliterate any car that dares test it's power😂
And UK roads won't?😂
Vídeo espetacular de gente muito inteligente, é um ótimo aprendizado!
Muito obrigado
Bushings will break first under such smooth driving
CONTROL ARMS = everything !
Ball joints upper and lower, bushes ,
Then CVS/drive shafts, wheel bearing ALL BALLJOINTS THEY TAKE A POUNDING (4X4 off roading )
No need to replace anything....
Just buy a new car. (After 5 years or 200,000 miles).
You wouldn't have any problems with parts breaking if the vehicle didn't have any suspension system.
Wait... There's only one control arm? *CRIES IN BMW SERVICING COSTS*
interesting which one will break first...not which would wear out first..or maybe I'm over thinking this
Those are cv axles not driveshafts. Driveshaft connects transmission to diff. Cv axles spin wheels. And tie rods are called tie rods. Theres inner and outer that connect to the steering rack
Ok, thank you, I'll keep that in mind for the future
@@opelservicekyiv keep up the videos 😊
Front control arm bush will be gone first on a bumpy road
Thanks for the comment, great
Was anyone else thinking barber shop 😂
Me, my first thought tbh
Then I thought of the wheels off Dudley moores sled in Santa Claus the movie
Straight line driving? Probably the shock/strut. Unless we’re including the bushings.
In that case, the stabilizer bar link might go sooner
That'd be an axle not a driveshaft
lower A arm bearing "green" because it's bolted on not press fit ....tie rod is not too far behind so replace both....if my wife was driving this car Strut would be next 😊
I drive a few Km like this daily -- it's the bushings that go first 😂
Same issue in my Mazda 3
What are those red ribbits I'm missing those. I have alot of clunking.
Thank you 🙏
I slid into a curb and now know I broke my stabilizer bar. Do I HAAAVE to get it fixed? The wheel is off-center but the car still drives alrighhht
The black one will prolly need replacing because of excessive rod wear. Idk what its called you didnt colour code it
Yes, this is the boot of the axle shaft, it is just rubber and bends
@@opelservicekyiv the tire
What is the name of fuck is defined as 'such driving'
Dude is just cruising over asphalt, not doing jumps, rallying, drifting or any kind of hooning
What you mean with such driving? That's just normal driving conditions lol
been working at the workshop and mostly the stabilizer bar always broke first when inspecting the suspension
Actually the shocl absorber is the spring
The "shock absorber" is the damper
Looks like pretty normal driving. In my experience, ball joints, end links and tie rod ends can last as little as 1 or 2 years if they were cheap. Most suspension parts are designed for 50k miles.
Quite frankly, I find that is a very stupid question... show me the benefit of knowing the answer
imma go with the yellow piece for a 1000 alex....(stabilizer bar link)
Stab links are usually the weakest point in McPherson strut suspension.
Really everyone, shock are the first thing you replace, they only last 30k miles , way before any bushing , ball joint, or control will go out. Unless of course you hit a curbs or 6 in pot holes every day
I juust replaced stabilizer on my mom's car lol
everything at once from my EXP at my dads shop
I’d know the mechanics and cars if they were all painted like a clown car
How about the blue bolt against the frame connecting the green torsion bar to the yellow stabilizer bar.
CV Joint seem to have them on FFWD these days. Followed by control arms, pick one and tie rod end for me...
If I learned anything about cars over the years, it's that all these components will basically go out all together, and should be replaced all together, otherwise, you just chase your tail, and prematurely break what you already replaced.
Thanks for the comment, great
If its an opel/vauxhaul tie rods will start knocking first after about 8 miles with new ones
I think yellow. I'm basing this off literally zero knowledge but it seems quite weak and also its holding the thing together in a way
playskool makes suspension parts 🤣🤣 jk good idea for guys wanting to learn
Trying to show the components yet as soon as you turn only show the caliper and fail to show the turning rod doing it’s job
Stabilizer bar, and wouldn't be the first time I've seen such things bend the inner tie-rod
On Nissans control arm bushings are the majority suspension repairs. And rear shocks
Used to do pothole brake tests on various manufacturers vehicles. Track rods, ball joints, dampers and occasionally wishbones that would break
Thanks for commenting and watching the video
I don't like the way the shock is mounted to the hub. Extremely breakable
Ok, thank you
Generally, even the cheapest joints don't come apart before metal bends. Not saying balls don't come out of sockets, but it's usually due to an accident. Metal can bend just from harsh bumps.
Thanks for commenting and watching the video
All balljoints always go first, stabilizer link, tie rod end too. At old age spring may break one of it's ends off, and some people don't even notice it. On gravel roads, wheel hub ball bearing may randomly die because small sand grains surpass the plastic protective stuff and work their magic inside. Soon you get play and noise when driving straight, or in corners in beginning.
Thanks for commenting and watching the video
Bottom ball joint or the spring or the shock absorber or the drop link all getting work driving over pot holes
Used to work in a shop as a young apprentice, ive seen way more broken tie rod ends and stabilizer bar links than anything else with the suspension
Cv axle will wear out first if everything is new with such mild road conditions.
I'd say anything that is ball and socket, stabilizing link kit or ball joints usually go first
Assuming all are in good condition, calipers(more less the fluid inside) will overheat and seize before anything else breaks. Those parts typically last AT LEAST 50,000 miles. So a beating it should be able to handle. So long as it has stock performance as well. But brakes are not made to be beat on. You can stomp on them, in an emergency. But you shouldn’t regularly.
I was also under the impression this was a track car. Upon watching it again it looks to be more of a road condition test. In which my input doesn’t make much sense
Shocks are only really good for about 12,000 miles.
I am not an engineer or vehicle designer but is it a good idea to place the part controlling your front wheels so low? I mean it may get hit by tall enough debris or and get damaged.
Почему то мне кажется если взять новую 2109 прям нулевую и прокатиться на ней по полю
То девятке вообще по*ую будет