Nice video. Norton Crystolon is a great stone. Cheap and cuts like a beast. I wanted one but they are quite expensive in Brazil so I got their cheap cousin, Norton JB8. A bit softer stone, doesn't come pre soaked in oil and also cuts really fast. JB8 doesn't retain any water on the surface so I need a little repair with plastic wrap to fix this.
superb video content, thanks for sharing! so you're saying that one needs to refinish Dan's black Arkansas after a while? And you haven't played with Spyderco UF ceramic stones yet? Yes they get dull too .. so i am looking into buying a series of sandpaper. I never lapped a whetstone before!
it depends on what you want out of the stone. if you are after a clean, efficient cutting stone, then yes, they will need conditioned and maintenance from time to time. if you are after more of the burnished stone effect, then they will just need to be kept clean.
Ok so. The comparison of the rocks. Arkansas stones matrix are never sharp. They are always duller/rounded. That is one reason they cut slower than most others. Now diamonds are always jagged because the matrix is very hectic.
see that is what ive always understood, but I really wonder if it has to be that way. ive been lapping the arks to 220 and ending with fresh grit, in the hopes of creating a refreshable stone with diamond characteristics, and having some very nice results. ill get the scope all set up with the spare tv and try to get it on camera this weekend or early next week I think
Love your videos. So pressure wise, are you saying lighter grinding pressure on all types of stones/plates is better/more effective, than heavier pressure. I've been coming to this conclusion because lighter seems to give more "feel under the blade" to what's happening to the blade and where the sharpening is taking place. ATB. PS. I think heavy pressure seems to burnish more than cut.
when you are refining the edge and getting it close to done, then yes, lighter pressure is usually better, just enough pressure to get the stone to cut. when you are shaping the edge, then use as much pressure as you like {within reason of course} as you are just removing material in preparation to refining the edge. heavy pressure and burnishing i believe happens more with stones that arent condtioned as well as they could be, such as an arkansas that is loaded up and wont cut efficiently.
@@joecalton1449 OK Joe. thanks. When conditioning oil stones, is a sic powder close to the stated grit of the stone the thing to use, or a powder a bit lower. ATB.
@@peteswright that sort of depends on what you are after with the stone. if you want the stone to cut as coarse as it can for its grit, condition with a coarser powder, and if you want to get the finest cut that it can give, go with a finer powder.
Great coincidence that you talk about Oilstones today, I recently started using the Norton India stone and it suprised me, a 15Euro stone that cuts faster then my expensive Shapton Pro stones. I did a video where I sharpened an LC200N steel blade with it and it was FAST.
I really like how this channel developes, great work. I tried to flatten a norton India with sand on concrete. That didn't work for me at all. You need a lot of pressure to break the bond of an India stone with sand. But leaning into the stone makes it less likely that you apply even decently even pressure while rubbing it around. I made the mistake to just check if the stone was already flat every few minutes. I never got it flat but I scraped of almost a fifth of the thickness of the stone, mainly the fine side which is now as thin as the coarse side. I don't think the sand did much to the coarse side though. Also I did not find sand does well for conditioning. But maybe I was just very bad at doing it, I would really like to hear an update when you tried it. For me, 8€ for 24 grit Sic powder, and a tile did a much better and faster job and actually got it flat. Conditioning for me is done with a ~100-120 grit very weak bond Sic stone, like the TASK garden hone. It's incredibly fast and easy. Just rub it over the India lightly for 20 seconds and you're done with very little mess. You might wand to try that. It's not working for flattening very nicely though, because an India is just eating up the sic stone in the process.
Great one, Joe! I'll repeat that I love your image of looking down at a stone like you would mountain topography. I'm beginning to wonder if continuing to use the same application of SIC powder after it has broken down might be as counter-productive as using worn out sandpaper - dulling/rounding the "mountain peaks". Whatcha' think?
thanks! it seems like a good way to describe it. I absolutely think that the farther you break down the powder, the more it smooths instead of cuts, and that fresh sharp powder leaves a much sharper surface on the stone
As a 100% disabled person, I request these stones as a gift from you, I would be very grateful if you send them as a gift. Please, I would appreciate it if you could give a positive answer, thank you in advance. Best Regards, Abdullah Menevse ❤❤🙏🙏🙏❤❤
Thank you so much. This was very helpful 😊👍
Yes you definitely got to lap your stones to keep them performing correctly.
Most definitely!
Nice video. Norton Crystolon is a great stone. Cheap and cuts like a beast. I wanted one but they are quite expensive in Brazil so I got their cheap cousin, Norton JB8. A bit softer stone, doesn't come pre soaked in oil and also cuts really fast.
JB8 doesn't retain any water on the surface so I need a little repair with plastic wrap to fix this.
Excellent video, with really good explanations.
Thanks.
Taşların hepsi de birbirinden güzel mükemmel muhtesem mükemmel görünüyor çok güzeller üstadım
superb video content, thanks for sharing! so you're saying that one needs to refinish Dan's black Arkansas after a while? And you haven't played with Spyderco UF ceramic stones yet? Yes they get dull too .. so i am looking into buying a series of sandpaper. I never lapped a whetstone before!
it depends on what you want out of the stone. if you are after a clean, efficient cutting stone, then yes, they will need conditioned and maintenance from time to time. if you are after more of the burnished stone effect, then they will just need to be kept clean.
Hi Joe can one use plain water on a new unused India fine stone?
you could, but I think the stone would glaze over pretty quickly without some sort of soap or oil mixed with the water.
Ok so. The comparison of the rocks. Arkansas stones matrix are never sharp. They are always duller/rounded. That is one reason they cut slower than most others. Now diamonds are always jagged because the matrix is very hectic.
see that is what ive always understood, but I really wonder if it has to be that way. ive been lapping the arks to 220 and ending with fresh grit, in the hopes of creating a refreshable stone with diamond characteristics, and having some very nice results. ill get the scope all set up with the spare tv and try to get it on camera this weekend or early next week I think
Love your videos. So pressure wise, are you saying lighter grinding pressure on all types of stones/plates is better/more effective, than heavier pressure. I've been coming to this conclusion because lighter seems to give more "feel under the blade" to what's happening to the blade and where the sharpening is taking place. ATB. PS. I think heavy pressure seems to burnish more than cut.
when you are refining the edge and getting it close to done, then yes, lighter pressure is usually better, just enough pressure to get the stone to cut.
when you are shaping the edge, then use as much pressure as you like {within reason of course} as you are just removing material in preparation to refining the edge.
heavy pressure and burnishing i believe happens more with stones that arent condtioned as well as they could be, such as an arkansas that is loaded up and wont cut efficiently.
@@joecalton1449 OK Joe. thanks. When conditioning oil stones, is a sic powder close to the stated grit of the stone the thing to use, or a powder a bit lower. ATB.
@@peteswright that sort of depends on what you are after with the stone. if you want the stone to cut as coarse as it can for its grit, condition with a coarser powder, and if you want to get the finest cut that it can give, go with a finer powder.
@@joecalton1449 Thanks Joe. You're a star.
Great coincidence that you talk about Oilstones today, I recently started using the Norton India stone and it suprised me, a 15Euro stone that cuts faster then my expensive Shapton Pro stones. I did a video where I sharpened an LC200N steel blade with it and it was FAST.
I really like how this channel developes, great work.
I tried to flatten a norton India with sand on concrete. That didn't work for me at all. You need a lot of pressure to break the bond of an India stone with sand. But leaning into the stone makes it less likely that you apply even decently even pressure while rubbing it around. I made the mistake to just check if the stone was already flat every few minutes. I never got it flat but I scraped of almost a fifth of the thickness of the stone, mainly the fine side which is now as thin as the coarse side. I don't think the sand did much to the coarse side though. Also I did not find sand does well for conditioning.
But maybe I was just very bad at doing it, I would really like to hear an update when you tried it. For me, 8€ for 24 grit Sic powder, and a tile did a much better and faster job and actually got it flat.
Conditioning for me is done with a ~100-120 grit very weak bond Sic stone, like the TASK garden hone. It's incredibly fast and easy. Just rub it over the India lightly for 20 seconds and you're done with very little mess. You might wand to try that. It's not working for flattening very nicely though, because an India is just eating up the sic stone in the process.
Great one, Joe! I'll repeat that I love your image of looking down at a stone like you would mountain topography. I'm beginning to wonder if continuing to use the same application of SIC powder after it has broken down might be as counter-productive as using worn out sandpaper - dulling/rounding the "mountain peaks". Whatcha' think?
thanks! it seems like a good way to describe it. I absolutely think that the farther you break down the powder, the more it smooths instead of cuts, and that fresh sharp powder leaves a much sharper surface on the stone
keep up the great vids :)
As a 100% disabled person, I request these stones as a gift from you, I would be very grateful if you send them as a gift. Please, I would appreciate it if you could give a positive answer, thank you in advance. Best Regards, Abdullah Menevse ❤❤🙏🙏🙏❤❤