Did you replace the Liquid line filter drier when you replaced the solenoid back in the summer . If not then there it is Joe . I would replace the Liquid line filter drier with an oversized one .I prefer solenoid valves that can be taken apart . Sometimes you’ll find a valve acting up and it is because there is crap stuck in there messing with the STEM . Good video .
may be a good idea to put a filter drier directly before new solenoid valve. yeah I know it sucks having that junk crammed inside a box or the evap. in case of junk in the line set.
this is so crazy I literally just had this problem two days ago walk-in freezer thermostat was calling power to my solenoid solenoid was ohming out I had no clue why it kept Pumping down So my dad told me take a torch to the TXV in the solenoid And it started working Been doing this like six years never had this problem or seen this problem on TH-cam And now I’ve had it happened to me and seen it in less than three days lol
Hi Joe, I hope you and your awesome family are healthy. The camera made it look like the coil was sitting really high on the actuator. Keep up the great service sir.
That stem doesn’t activate from the base of the coil it’s half way up. Thought the same thing when I picked them up from United last time but magnet confirmed the activation happens not at the base hjt right about where that sits.
@restaurantrepairs Thanks for taking the time. Homesteading, Serviceteching, You Tubing, Teaching and raising a family is WAY too much. You already know that though. Stay healthy sir.
So, they bought a fridge, and ended up with a freezer. Well, it still seems like a win, somehow ? Just prop the door open with a box of onion rings.... that's what every other restaurant does on a daily basis !
Sounds like the solenoid is not closing 100% leaking through not shutting down the compressor on low pressure I have problems with some of those Portland what's on Alco valve and coil directions to match everything seemed to be okay I also you stay stay right 8% less heat on the valve
Here’s a thought…. We’re in conversations to replace the unit but I may try to manage the issue with an adjustable LPC like the old days controlling temps. Hear me out. That cooker should be running 50 psi or higher at 422 to be in temp. If I have an LPC that shuts down at 35 psi, even if my solenoid hangs open and we start running 27 like I caught today the condenser will stop. Pressures will bleed by until it equalizes and I can make the cutin 55 psi that’s a 38 degree coil and solenoid be damned she should maintain temps via pressure control until replacement final approval without costly repairs and replacements now. Make some finagling but I think imma give it a shot
Installed a new condenser and evaporator in a walk in. Factory installed Sanhua solenoid would not shut off. Install was completed at night just hours before our tenant to receive a huge meat delivery... Adjusted the Emerson Dixell control on the condensing to act like a LPC to get by. That was three, hell maybe four years ago. Still haven't gone back to do any more than condenser cleaning. Caveat: the condenser sits on top of the walk in, in a semi conditioned space with a very short lineset.
Question for ya as I see that suction line is iced up. I was at a zaxbies actually this week and there walk in freezer was working and at -2*, the issue is the line set was completely iced from about 5inches off of the evaporator all the way to the compressor. The only issue I found was the freezer was set to -20* degrees so the box wouldn’t ever satisfy because it’s not gonna reach -20. It confused me because I haven’t personally seen just a line set iced up unless perhaps defrost was working well enough to clear the evaporator. I also didn’t notice any kinks in the suction line or airflow problems. This was a secondary issue when I was on site so I didn’t dig into it much more because I wasn’t approved to work on it, I was just curious. What’s your thoughts 💭
A frozen freezer suction line doesn’t concern me as long as my superheat doesn’t tell me it’s from slugging. Those units at 20 degrees of superheat are coming back at 12 degrees. That’s gonna ice up unless you got super insulation which nobody does. I tell folks the stress of getting a not young freezer to -10 ain’t worth the strain. Set it for -5 with a 5-7 degree dif. -5 to 2 degrees lifetime temps. That’s gonna ice gives the suction line time to rest between demands. My two cents
@ That makes sense, I think that’s all it was doing, It didn’t shut off aside from defrost but the suction line was such a solid block of ice I don’t think it had time to melt. I asked one guy and he told me it’s most likely txv lmao
1. Are you referring to moisture in the system as non condensables 2. Is that coil correct for that valve body? Looks mismatched. Looks to be a E9 series valve.
Stupid question from the peanut gallery ( I'm not an HVAC tech ). Would putting a filter-drier in help with this possible non-condensibles ? And another stupid question, when you add a filter-drier where there previously was not one before, does that increase the size of the system and warrant a small additional amount of refrigerant ? Asking for a friend....
@@stanpatterson5033 adding a dryer where there wasn’t on doesn’t change volume enough to matter but also. Charging to fill the sightglass would remedy if there were discrepancies. There is an existing dryer. Old systems can deteriorate from inside the system and the dryer will catch most. I’m not certain it’s wasn’t just a failed valve. I’m gonna replace it tomorrow replace the dryer and purge the crap out of it with nitrogen then give her a fresh charge and see where the adventure leads
I enjoy you sharing what is going on.👍
👍💪🇺🇸❄️ great troubleshooting vid thanks for sharing.
Did you replace the Liquid line filter drier when you replaced the solenoid back in the summer . If not then there it is Joe . I would replace the Liquid line filter drier with an oversized one .I prefer solenoid valves that can be taken apart . Sometimes you’ll find a valve acting up and it is because there is crap stuck in there messing with the STEM . Good video .
may be a good idea to put a filter drier directly before new solenoid valve. yeah I know it sucks having that junk crammed inside a box or the evap. in case of junk in the line set.
this is so crazy
I literally just had this problem two days ago
walk-in freezer thermostat was calling power to my solenoid solenoid was ohming out
I had no clue why it kept Pumping down
So my dad told me take a torch to the TXV in the solenoid
And it started working
Been doing this like six years never had this problem or seen this problem on TH-cam
And now I’ve had it happened to me and seen it in less than three days
lol
Change the dryer and install one on the suction line just for good measure.
Hi Joe,
I hope you and your awesome family are healthy. The camera made it look like the coil was sitting really high on the actuator. Keep up the great service sir.
That stem doesn’t activate from the base of the coil it’s half way up. Thought the same thing when I picked them up from United last time but magnet confirmed the activation happens not at the base hjt right about where that sits.
@restaurantrepairs Thanks for taking the time. Homesteading, Serviceteching, You Tubing, Teaching and raising a family is WAY too much. You already know that though. Stay healthy sir.
So, they bought a fridge, and ended up with a freezer. Well, it still seems like a win, somehow ? Just prop the door open with a box of onion rings.... that's what every other restaurant does on a daily basis !
Make sure it’s the correct size body, flow nitrogen when brazing it in and don’t overheat it . 3 reasons why they usually go bad
@@WswRefrigeration I bury them in viper wet rag putty for that reason. But all correct
Also check pump down manually make sure that low pressure control shuts off every time
Sounds like the solenoid is not closing 100% leaking through not shutting down the compressor on low pressure I have problems with some of those Portland what's on Alco valve and coil directions to match everything seemed to be okay I also you stay stay right 8% less heat on the valve
Another great video 👍👍
Look familiar?
@ absolutely 👍 😉
Dumb question but do you work for TWC services? That barcode looks like ours. They’re probably used by a lot of companies though
I do not but they’re in force in my area.
Garbage in the system is my bet . Install a solenoid valve that can be disassembled. Good Video !
Here’s a thought…. We’re in conversations to replace the unit but I may try to manage the issue with an adjustable LPC like the old days controlling temps. Hear me out. That cooker should be running 50 psi or higher at 422 to be in temp. If I have an LPC that shuts down at 35 psi, even if my solenoid hangs open and we start running 27 like I caught today the condenser will stop. Pressures will bleed by until it equalizes and I can make the cutin 55 psi that’s a 38 degree coil and solenoid be damned she should maintain temps via pressure control until replacement final approval without costly repairs and replacements now. Make some finagling but I think imma give it a shot
You could try a LPC . Does the condenser have a low ambient control ? Might get you by until new .good luck.
Installed a new condenser and evaporator in a walk in. Factory installed Sanhua solenoid would not shut off.
Install was completed at night just hours before our tenant to receive a huge meat delivery...
Adjusted the Emerson Dixell control on the condensing to act like a LPC to get by.
That was three, hell maybe four years ago. Still haven't gone back to do any more than condenser cleaning.
Caveat: the condenser sits on top of the walk in, in a semi conditioned space with a very short lineset.
@@restaurantrepairsis that unit r22?
@wmgmusicgroup 422b now.
Question for ya as I see that suction line is iced up. I was at a zaxbies actually this week and there walk in freezer was working and at -2*, the issue is the line set was completely iced from about 5inches off of the evaporator all the way to the compressor. The only issue I found was the freezer was set to -20* degrees so the box wouldn’t ever satisfy because it’s not gonna reach -20. It confused me because I haven’t personally seen just a line set iced up unless perhaps defrost was working well enough to clear the evaporator. I also didn’t notice any kinks in the suction line or airflow problems. This was a secondary issue when I was on site so I didn’t dig into it much more because I wasn’t approved to work on it, I was just curious. What’s your thoughts 💭
That’s a lot longer than I thought it would be haha
A frozen freezer suction line doesn’t concern me as long as my superheat doesn’t tell me it’s from slugging. Those units at 20 degrees of superheat are coming back at 12 degrees. That’s gonna ice up unless you got super insulation which nobody does. I tell folks the stress of getting a not young freezer to -10 ain’t worth the strain. Set it for -5 with a 5-7 degree dif. -5 to 2 degrees lifetime temps. That’s gonna ice gives the suction line time to rest between demands. My two cents
@ That makes sense, I think that’s all it was doing, It didn’t shut off aside from defrost but the suction line was such a solid block of ice I don’t think it had time to melt. I asked one guy and he told me it’s most likely txv lmao
1. Are you referring to moisture in the system as non condensables 2. Is that coil correct for that valve body? Looks mismatched. Looks to be a E9 series valve.
I wonder if the electromagnet failed? Or isn't working well enough?
Last time I was there it was buzzing real loud and I replaced the solenoid to the same effect. Had clean inbound voltage
they turn "on" to open, so a failed coil = solenoid shut, no refrigerant flow and hot box.
Stupid question from the peanut gallery ( I'm not an HVAC tech ). Would putting a filter-drier in help with this possible non-condensibles ? And another stupid question, when you add a filter-drier where there previously was not one before, does that increase the size of the system and warrant a small additional amount of refrigerant ? Asking for a friend....
@@stanpatterson5033 adding a dryer where there wasn’t on doesn’t change volume enough to matter but also. Charging to fill the sightglass would remedy if there were discrepancies. There is an existing dryer. Old systems can deteriorate from inside the system and the dryer will catch most. I’m not certain it’s wasn’t just a failed valve. I’m gonna replace it tomorrow replace the dryer and purge the crap out of it with nitrogen then give her a fresh charge and see where the adventure leads
Bad luck ....what a bummer🇬🇧