Morning TTO! I agree with you - you'll find the right method that works best for you over time. The tractor looks great! Thanks for the kind mentions on the channel. Appreciate hearing your feedback on the R14s. Have fun out there - Cheers!
Greetings from Wisconsin! I just watched this video, and I know it's a little old. I own a L2501 so a little bigger tractor, but I'd share that in my second year of owning it I watched a video by "Tractor Mike" and I can confidently say that lowering my rear tire pressure to 8-10psi added so much traction in both summer and winter it feels like a new machine. I've got the r4's and I was very surprised at the traction I gained. I've got a channel as well and I did a video on this subject. What caught my attention was after I put on tire chains I noticed the tractor was riding only on the chains. Again only lower the rear pressure, the front needs the pressure for the weight it carries with the loader. At that psi, mine still hardly bulge from me lifting my 700lb rear blade. It rides better, and has a wider footprint which adds to the traction. Cheers
I have the same rear blade on my LX2610 and I used sch80 pvc on the edge of the blade and it cleared the drive way perfectly even after the snow had frozen solid. I also use 1.5” sch40 pvc on my bucket edge and it works flawlessly no damage to the drive way and my drive is about 500’ long all paved. These same pvc method helps when I clear my neighbors driveways and I don’t have to worry about possible replacement in the sprig.
If you reverse the back blade, the cutting edge of the blade can't dig in, as it becomes a trailing edge, and scrapes just the snow off the asphalt or gravel driveway. I use Edge Tamers and my loader bucket for accumulations over 4 inches, on my gravel drive, and my rear blade, angled, to scrape off what the Edge Tamers leave behind. I use just the rear blade for light snow falls, but always push back my windrows of plowed snow, in every snowfall, so they don't freeze and become immovable barriers. A wide rear blade that can reach beyond the driveway edge, or a blade that can offset make that an easy task. An important thing to remember, is the EdgeTamers leave a thin layer of snow, which will pack down as vehicles use the plowed, but slightly snow covered surface. Multiple storms mean multiple thin layers of snow to pack down, The reversed rear blade removes that snow and prevents accumulation. Another tip is to practice plowing, with no snow, stopping multiple times to see if the cross slope of the driveway, is constant, and a straight line, so your blade can actually scrape it. It's hard to see what's happening when everything is snow covered, A 6 foot blade makes a single straight cut. Making multiple passes with a walk behind snow blower will mask the variations in cross slope, that a wider blade or tractor mounted snow blower will clearly show you, in left behind snow. If your driveway has a center crown, you need to know how to find it, using landmarks, because its invisible under a blanket of snow. Gravel driveways can also benefit from practice plowing to identify bumps or low points in the gravel surface. You need to smooth them out, to make a smooth, straight, firm surface, to remove snow from. Once the gravel surface freezes, you can use your bucket in float, to remove snow, and not dig in, but you will have to practice doing this in the fall, before it snows. Its harder to do than it appears. Pick and test your snow storage areas in the fall before it snows, and make sure there are no humps or bumps in the grass that your loader bucket (6 foot steel straight edge) will scrape off. Loader buckets remove sod as easily as snow, and the spring cleanup and repair work can be prevented, with some prior planning. All these glitches in snow removal were learned in "the school of hard knocks" when I graduated from 20 years using a walk behind snow blower to a tractor with loader and rear blade.
I have a JD 2025r and I tried using my Frontier RB5060L rear blade for snow removal . When the ground is not yet frozen , the blade has a tendency to dig in and plow gravel . I'm sure it would work better on frozen ground , or pavement . The boom mounted angling snow blade that I have though , works much better . The bucket with Edgetamers works good for clearing piles and on grassy areas .
I use a rear blade for my driveway. One of the things I learned is that if you push the snow to one side of the driveway or the other, when you done lift the blade a couple of inches and push the top of the moved snow further back from the driveway. If not your just going to keep plowing new into the old and you’ll soon not have any space left to plow.
Half the fun is the learning experience. Not that you are going to go get new tires but turf tires work best in the snow for paved surfaces. Great video. New subscriber here.
PS I ran tractors for many many years to it does kind of bother me first time tractor owners are telling other first-time tractor owners how to run attachments and implements when it's not correct sorry it's just me and I'm just trying to help... the main reasons I started my TH-cam channel to help first-time tractor owners shown Trix and correct ways to run a tractor... I don't have the stage presence or talent or fancy cameras for TH-cam but I do have years of experience and knowledge to pass on
I have the same tractor and about a 700lbs ballast box on the back R14 works fine on my asphalt driveway and in 2wd most of the time. The edge tamers are going to scratch your black top coating. Just a heads up. Nice light setup by the way.Have a great day😁👍🚜💨❄️
I also have a steep paved driveway and loaded the rear tires of my B2601 with washer fluid to help with traction going up hill. I run the 55" Kubota commercial HD front blower and there is not much that will stop it.
Put a rear mount blower on an L245DT for some residential use this year and have not had enough to shovel let alone blow. It’s no inverted on my 3301 but I needed a second small machine to run a neighborhood
I am interested in the blade for my machine. I hard does that blade hit down onto the surface? My driveway is packed down millings and im thinking the blade might dig in. Thanks
I know between you and G P you got many more subscribers than I do thousands... I only have 18.. but I'm fresh out of the gate for TH-cam.. but I'm here to tell you right now he has steered you wrong on shortening your top link... I have told him this a few different comments. I've been running blade machines for 40 years my brother longer than I if you tilt the top your blade forward you are going to dig more I'm having a hard time convincing someone of this only reason you didn't do any damage to your Blacktop is because it is blacktop that blade don't weigh that much tried on gravel ones you will tear it right up... other than that nice video and nice tractor
Just found your channel and subscribed. Awesome work. I have a B2301 with similar attachments also trying to get my youtube channel going. 😃. I have a snow pusher and so far works great. Might be an idea for ya to try. Keep up the great work. 👍. Take care and all the best. Kyle from NE Washington State.
On pavement there is no reason to have the toplink adjusted to anything but level. The cutting edge will then be parallel to the ground through the entire range of rotation. Gravel is a different matter, but on stone, I prefer to spin the blade around 180 degree or plow in reverse.
Morning TTO! I agree with you - you'll find the right method that works best for you over time. The tractor looks great! Thanks for the kind mentions on the channel. Appreciate hearing your feedback on the R14s. Have fun out there - Cheers!
I am a big fan of yours! :)
Greetings from Wisconsin! I just watched this video, and I know it's a little old. I own a L2501 so a little bigger tractor, but I'd share that in my second year of owning it I watched a video by "Tractor Mike" and I can confidently say that lowering my rear tire pressure to 8-10psi added so much traction in both summer and winter it feels like a new machine. I've got the r4's and I was very surprised at the traction I gained. I've got a channel as well and I did a video on this subject. What caught my attention was after I put on tire chains I noticed the tractor was riding only on the chains. Again only lower the rear pressure, the front needs the pressure for the weight it carries with the loader. At that psi, mine still hardly bulge from me lifting my 700lb rear blade. It rides better, and has a wider footprint which adds to the traction. Cheers
I have the same rear blade on my LX2610 and I used sch80 pvc on the edge of the blade and it cleared the drive way perfectly even after the snow had frozen solid. I also use 1.5” sch40 pvc on my bucket edge and it works flawlessly no damage to the drive way and my drive is about 500’ long all paved. These same pvc method helps when I clear my neighbors driveways and I don’t have to worry about possible replacement in the sprig.
How long does the PVC pipe last? I would think it would be ground away pretty quickly.
If you reverse the back blade, the cutting edge of the blade can't dig in, as it becomes a trailing edge, and scrapes just the snow off the asphalt or gravel driveway. I use Edge Tamers and my loader bucket for accumulations over 4 inches, on my gravel drive, and my rear blade, angled, to scrape off what the Edge Tamers leave behind. I use just the rear blade for light snow falls, but always push back my windrows of plowed snow, in every snowfall, so they don't freeze and become immovable barriers. A wide rear blade that can reach beyond the driveway edge, or a blade that can offset make that an easy task.
An important thing to remember, is the EdgeTamers leave a thin layer of snow, which will pack down as vehicles use the plowed, but slightly snow covered surface. Multiple storms mean multiple thin layers of snow to pack down, The reversed rear blade removes that snow and prevents accumulation.
Another tip is to practice plowing, with no snow, stopping multiple times to see if the cross slope of the driveway, is constant, and a straight line, so your blade can actually scrape it. It's hard to see what's happening when everything is snow covered, A 6 foot blade makes a single straight cut. Making multiple passes with a walk behind snow blower will mask the variations in cross slope, that a wider blade or tractor mounted snow blower will clearly show you, in left behind snow.
If your driveway has a center crown, you need to know how to find it, using landmarks, because its invisible under a blanket of snow.
Gravel driveways can also benefit from practice plowing to identify bumps or low points in the gravel surface. You need to smooth them out, to make a smooth, straight, firm surface, to remove snow from. Once the gravel surface freezes, you can use your bucket in float, to remove snow, and not dig in, but you will have to practice doing this in the fall, before it snows. Its harder to do than it appears.
Pick and test your snow storage areas in the fall before it snows, and make sure there are no humps or bumps in the grass that your loader bucket (6 foot steel straight edge) will scrape off. Loader buckets remove sod as easily as snow, and the spring cleanup and repair work can be prevented, with some prior planning.
All these glitches in snow removal were learned in "the school of hard knocks" when I graduated from 20 years using a walk behind snow blower to a tractor with loader and rear blade.
Awesome info. Thanks for sharing this!
I have a JD 2025r and I tried using my Frontier RB5060L rear blade for snow removal . When the ground is not yet frozen , the blade has a tendency to dig in and plow gravel . I'm sure it would work better on frozen ground , or pavement . The boom mounted angling snow blade that I have though , works much better . The bucket with Edgetamers works good for clearing piles and on grassy areas .
I use a rear blade for my driveway. One of the things I learned is that if you push the snow to one side of the driveway or the other, when you done lift the blade a couple of inches and push the top of the moved snow further back from the driveway. If not your just going to keep plowing new into the old and you’ll soon not have any space left to plow.
Half the fun is the learning experience. Not that you are going to go get new tires but turf tires work best in the snow for paved surfaces. Great video. New subscriber here.
PS I ran tractors for many many years to it does kind of bother me first time tractor owners are telling other first-time tractor owners how to run attachments and implements when it's not correct sorry it's just me and I'm just trying to help... the main reasons I started my TH-cam channel to help first-time tractor owners shown Trix and correct ways to run a tractor... I don't have the stage presence or talent or fancy cameras for TH-cam but I do have years of experience and knowledge to pass on
I have the same tractor and about a 700lbs ballast box on the back R14 works fine on my asphalt driveway and in 2wd most of the time. The edge tamers are going to scratch your black top coating. Just a heads up. Nice light setup by the way.Have a great day😁👍🚜💨❄️
I also have a steep paved driveway and loaded the rear tires of my B2601 with washer fluid to help with traction going up hill. I run the 55" Kubota commercial HD front blower and there is not much that will stop it.
Does your Kabouta Tractor have a Snowblower Attachment, for the winter for plowing snow like you were doing?
Put a rear mount blower on an L245DT for some residential use this year and have not had enough to shovel let alone blow. It’s no inverted on my 3301 but I needed a second small machine to run a neighborhood
Mine has loaded turfs , my drive is so small I use a walk behind. I bet a 3 point blower would work great on your driveway :)
I am interested in the blade for my machine. I hard does that blade hit down onto the surface? My driveway is packed down millings and im thinking the blade might dig in. Thanks
I have a front mount blower for my 2601, works wonders, you might want to consider, 4 or 5 passes and your driveway will be clean.
I would love a blower but I use my grapple so much in the winter that it just wouldn't make sense for me.
I know between you and G P you got many more subscribers than I do thousands... I only have 18.. but I'm fresh out of the gate for TH-cam.. but I'm here to tell you right now he has steered you wrong on shortening your top link... I have told him this a few different comments. I've been running blade machines for 40 years my brother longer than I if you tilt the top your blade forward you are going to dig more I'm having a hard time convincing someone of this only reason you didn't do any damage to your Blacktop is because it is blacktop that blade don't weigh that much tried on gravel ones you will tear it right up... other than that nice video and nice tractor
Turf tires will be the best in snow.. and of course more weight the better, loaded tires etc..
Just found your channel and subscribed. Awesome work. I have a B2301 with similar attachments also trying to get my youtube channel going. 😃. I have a snow pusher and so far works great. Might be an idea for ya to try. Keep up the great work. 👍. Take care and all the best. Kyle from NE Washington State.
On pavement there is no reason to have the toplink adjusted to anything but level. The cutting edge will then be parallel to the ground through the entire range of rotation. Gravel is a different matter, but on stone, I prefer to spin the blade around 180 degree or plow in reverse.
You can’t shorten the top link and angle the blade
Let that baby warm up a little before using the 3ph
7 inch turned into about 17 inches
Add wheel weights.
Park the loader for the winter and buy a blower
Agree. Blower would work so much better but I need the loader and grapple for firewood work all winter.