I have to admit, it came out better than I was expecting! I have limited experience with body work, and I wasn't sure how that hub cap would turn out. AUCTION IS HERE: ebay.us/RuM4q0 Don't forget to check my Amazon store if you are interested in supporting the channel and buying some tools, like the sandblaster I used in this video! www.amazon.com/shop/farmcraft101 And go subscribe to Kevin's channels! Have a great weekend everybody!
"The intake is too close to the exhaust"... That's actually pretty damn funny. To each their own, personally being so close has led to so many great times in my days.
Really good job on the restoration, especially the hub piece. Well done. This held up well over the decades. Thanks for pointing out the weld. Interesting. Good call to leave it close to original manufacture. Dave.
seriously where did you get your skills, i have been in construction for over 40yrs and i have never seen anyone that has your skills. i have works with a lot of good craftsmen, but you do everything at a master level. machinist, carpenter, mechanic, lumber jack , rock climber, what else?? are you just a michael jordan of trades?
I'm a Common Wealth Picker watcher and so wanted to watch this restoration. I'm so glad I did! You are an amazing craftsman and I really enjoyed watching each step. I'm going to watch more! : )
This 19" wheel is from a 1930-31 Model A. The 1928-29 wheels were 21" and most of them came from the factory in black paint. In 1930-31, Ford introduced some De Luxe models which came with wheels that complimented the pinstripe. Red, cream, apple green and blue were some of the optional colors.
You are aware that the chrome hub cap is a replacement for an original, which was stainless steel and didn't have the ring around the outer edge. But nice job bringing it back to life.
Whenever I sandblast as you did I put down one of those cheap blue tarps to catch the sand. I still sift but I know there will be no dirt from the ground. I even do it on grass. Nice job on the cap. I used a sand bag but did not get the same results. Will try an anvil next.
Great looking wheel!!! My wife was amazed at how well you did the cap. For the sand blasting, I've started using the pressure washer technique. Takes a little to get used to, but you're not getting pelted with all the ricochets. Then, I just hit it with the rust transformer. Keep the cool videos coming!!
This turned out absolutely beautiful. Yeah leaving all the weld marks and dings and stuff in the will was the right thing to do. It's really too bad you couldn't got an old valve stem for it. Hope you're doing well. Take care. Or First On Race Day.
Finally some one who understands how to restore stuff why take something made 100 years ago file all the character of it , smooth it out to look like it was made in modern times it ruins the final look of it , it makes it look like it is mass produced in a sweat shop buy under paid people . This was awesomely done to restore it back to the way and time it was made.
You could also have CNC'd a pair of dies to use in your hydraulic press to "re-stamp" the hubcap. Of course, that would require a CNC conversion on your mill...
Great job! I came over from commonwealth picker channel. I restore old cars so I know the work put into restoring old parts like this one. It turned out great!
Impressive save on the hubcap! The wheel is a later 1930-1931 Model A. Although Henry Ford was a brilliant inventor and engineer he did not invent the automobile!
Was the original a solid tire or an inner tube tire? You should have had a respirator while sandblasting the paint off. Due to its age, it likely has lead in the paint. If you had access to 3D printer, you could have re-created the hub, then cast it in aluminum or bronze to use as an anvil of the correct shape. Build a large plywood or sheet metal box with a slanted bottom and a hole at the end of the slant. The sand will mostly flow back down through the hole, and falling back into the bucket. No need to stop to sweep.
I think the cap turned out almost surprisingly good. The minor dings show that it has some history, but the nickel plating over the dings gives it almost an "artist's impression of old hardware" kind of look.
Get Evaporust ... it is great fast stuff for removing rust without further corrosion... and can be used again and again till it reaches a point where it takes more time(depends on you to dump or keep using)
We have a 1930 model a ford in the family have had it BBC since 1984. It's a convertible coupe. Called a cabriolet, meaning it has windows in the doors where as a roadster doesnt. The cabriolet the top plays down like a roadster pretty rare car. U dont see many at car shows
Hi Jon, was just watching Kevins new vid and came over to you to take a look at that Model A wheel, man you did such a great job, so patient, well done bud.
I just found this channel, and Im glad I did, your skills with tinker hammer is really good, I would love a video about how to straighten out dents like that, when ive tried it, I end up with another dent in the dent so to say. Have a great day.
Looks like a real good job on that wheel. I understand that it went to an auction and the profits went to charity, so I hope you got a good price for it. I really don't think that a Model A restorer would pay much for it though. You restored a 19" !930-31 Model A wheel, which is the easiest Model A wheel to find. At least yours appears to have good bolt holes, not enlarged from the nuts becoming loose. And the spokes are good with no loose or bent ones. But those wheels have always been too common to be worth much. Now if it was a 21" 1928-29 wheel in that condition with no rustout in the rim, as often occured, then it would be much harder to find and worth more. Or especially if it was a 16" 1935 Ford wire wheel, now those are especially desired by hot rodders and worth looking for. But that hubcap. I wouldn't waste my time working on that if it was going on a restored car. Those hubcaps have long been available in reproduction, made of stainless steel, as they originally were. You could have just kept buffing and polishing it, no plating necessary.
Knowing how frugal Henry Ford was! He didn’t add any color to the channel of rim only the primer! Adding color would’ve been extra cost and money! Great job on the restoration of face of rim
my dads got an old model A with similar wheels, he was in the process of restoring/ rebuilding it and passed away last year so im left with a classic throw up all over the shop, hoping i can eventually rebuild it myself. the drivetrain is completely separated from the other parts of the car, there’s also 2 drivetrains and 2 sets of wheels/tires so i’m not sure what he was doing with that, im thinking i’ll start by restoring the interior stuff lol, id love to know what you suggest!
Hot dip in phosphoric acid at 8/1 would remove all that rust without blasting. Also suspending the wheel through the centre for instance with a broom handle allows the wheel to be spun making painting easier..
I was wondering, based on the projects you work on, if a small vapor honing machine would work better for you… If the pricing was somewhere in the vicinity of a blasting machine?
Jon, absolutely amazing restoration, great video too of your project progression. Excellent editing!! Funny St Peter’s joke 🤣🤣🤣. I’m glad Kevin didn’t find more than one!!! Subbed to your channel 👍 We have the same boat motor you’re restoring…had to stay up to date on that project. We’ll be binge watching your videos ❣️
I bought a skat blast cabinet a few years ago. It's great, but if I were to do it again, I would buy a plasma cutter and make one. They're dead simple. I'd be happy to provide dimensions of mine.
Very nice work! Especially the Ford hub cap (AND the joke). Since you do so many restorations, could you please tell me the best way and paint to restore my Craftsman Lawn Tractor Cutter deck to a protective coating that will resist rust and allow for grass to be cleaned off? Thank you!!
Cool, a Farmcraft 101 premiering at my lunch time. Now, I can watch without having to set aside my own projects. FORD aka Found on Road Dead. In my days.... By the way, good idea. Working with another TH-camr. You'll both will pick up subscribers and I vaguely remember you suggesting that as an aim. I am curious how you made out with your excavator search. Plus how easy are hand tools like Draw Knifes to come by in your neck of woods. Here, I had to buy out of Canada thru EBay in order to get one and I had tried everything else including a more or less antique store that had a lot of tools but not a single....
No luck on the excavator, but no hurry. I'll keep looking. I don't do a lot of local shopping for tools, so I'm not sure on availability. I fortunately have a draw knife that was here when I bought the farm.
Do you have any insight into how the spokes are attached to the hub and rim? They clearly seem to be welded, but the flairs at the weld joints don't look like something that was created by any welding process I'm familiar with. Are the flairs maybe created by upsetting in a forging process which maybe also leaves a smaller boss that goes through the hub and rim and then gets arc welded and ground down from the inside?
I was able to answer my own question. They were actually spot welded. The flares are apparently forged as part of making the spokes. The hub and rim are dimpled to accept the spokes. The parts went into a machine which pressed the dimples flat again from inside the hub and rim while at the same time spot welding the joints. It was covered by US patent 1701843. I had no idea they were doing stuff like that in the 1920s. Pretty cool.
I restored a 1929 Model A Tudor sedan in 1961. I was fortunate to find an old man who had worked at the Ford assembly plant in Louisville, Kentucky during the years bof Model A production and applied the pinstripe to the cars freehand. As I recall his name was Jacob Bonn. He also did the pinstripe on my car when it was restored in 1961. He told me that according to the serial number of my car he was likely to have applied the original pinstripe to my car when it was manufactured. The following information was obtained in conversations with Mr. Bonn and is likely historically accurate, at least as pertains to vehicles assembled at the Louisville factory: The original color of all Model A Ford wheels was black. The wheels (and fenders) were painted by dipping in a vat of paint, always black. Ford used a fast air drying enamel paint on the wheels, fenders and chassis components, and a proprietary lacquer type paint Ford called pyroxelin on the car body, and applied it by spraying, a new technique at the time. Dealers often painted the wheels of new cars another color, usually red or yellow, to attract the attention to potential buyers. In regard to another controversial detail, the area of the body structure exposed under the rear fenders was usually painted black using a brush and black enamel paint, but when the workers doing that job fell behind it wasn't unusual for occasional cars to come out of the factory with the body color exposed in the rear fender wells.
I've got some dug Schrader valve stems for those wheels! Ah, just saw that he's a flipper. I would've offered to send a valve stem had he been the type of collector that keeps and displays, not flips and sells.
Oof that looks like a lot more work than I expected. Planning to paint my 5 model A wheels (for my still driving model A). So got to do this but times 5... Sadly my model A has an earlier wheel design (different hub size) so this one isn't useful to me.
That was an awesome transformation and the thought process as to why you did X-Y-Z was a master class above my thinking. Do we want more restorations? You bet we do. 😊
That is a 1930-'31 19 inch model A rim. 1928-29 model A's had 21 inch rims. Early 28's (before April 1928) are not compatible with later 28 and 29 due to a design change with the brakes. There are 3 different Model A wire wheels, all of which have the same 5 bolt hole pattern, and none of which are interchangeable. These 1928-29 model A 21 inch wheels look similar to the 1926-27 model T wheels but, again are different. Lots of design changes going on at the time.
Are you from Virginia? I am. I'm from Charles City if you have heard of it. Now I live in sunny, hot, crowded and cramped Florida. And I get super excited when I see a new episode of yours!!! That was a pretty good joke. Also, could someone add a tire to it?
I like to keep my location vague, given all the video of my farm I post online. ;-) Glad you liked the video. Yes, tires are still available and could be mounted on it.
Henry Ford in 1930-31 made all his shiny pieces using Alaganey Metal which is stainless steel. A person can buy a perfect reproduction hub cap. the tabs on the cap were bent over before mounting on the car. not all the tabs were bent over just enough to hold it on the wheel. 1928-29 were nickel plated. that wheel is a 1930-31. Ford didn't spray paint the wheels; he dipped them in vats of paint and they hung on a chain rack to dry as they moved through the plant.
I have to admit, it came out better than I was expecting! I have limited experience with body work, and I wasn't sure how that hub cap would turn out. AUCTION IS HERE: ebay.us/RuM4q0
Don't forget to check my Amazon store if you are interested in supporting the channel and buying some tools, like the sandblaster I used in this video! www.amazon.com/shop/farmcraft101 And go subscribe to Kevin's channels! Have a great weekend everybody!
Looks Awesome Jon. Thank you so much for partnering with us on this project.
he is a craftsman.
Thanks again from the other Channel. My video on this will be out this evening on Commonwealth Flipper. Thanks so much Jon it. Looks amazing.
Holy crap! Sold for $1,025 ... nice work, fellas!
"The intake is too close to the exhaust"... That's actually pretty damn funny.
To each their own, personally being so close has led to so many great times in my days.
Really good job on the restoration, especially the hub piece. Well done.
This held up well over the decades.
Thanks for pointing out the weld. Interesting. Good call to leave it close to original manufacture.
Dave.
seriously where did you get your skills, i have been in construction for over 40yrs and i have never seen anyone that has your skills. i have works with a lot of good craftsmen, but you do everything at a master level. machinist, carpenter, mechanic, lumber jack , rock climber, what else?? are you just a michael jordan of trades?
Thanks!
Finally figured out how to see the super thanks. Sorry it took so long to reply, but a BIG THANKS for your support! Cheers!
The wheel is fantastic. I watch Kevin's channel also and know he will be happy. I would like to see more restorations.
I'm a Common Wealth Picker watcher and so wanted to watch this restoration. I'm so glad I did! You are an amazing craftsman and I really enjoyed watching each step. I'm going to watch more! : )
This 19" wheel is from a 1930-31 Model A. The 1928-29 wheels were 21" and most of them came from the factory in black paint. In 1930-31, Ford introduced some De Luxe models which came with wheels that complimented the pinstripe. Red, cream, apple green and blue were some of the optional colors.
Impressive restoration!
Equally impressive that you were able to find spray paint. The shelves are bare in CO.
My Walmart has almost no spray paint. Guess it comes from China.
This a beautiful wheel. Good Job Jon. I can't wait to see the next restoration.
Not only did I love the video, St Judes is one of my favorite charities. GOOD WORK!
You are aware that the chrome hub cap is a replacement for an original, which was stainless steel and didn't have the ring around the outer edge. But nice job bringing it back to life.
Whenever I sandblast as you did I put down one of those cheap blue tarps to catch the sand. I still sift but I know there will be no dirt from the ground. I even do it on grass.
Nice job on the cap. I used a sand bag but did not get the same results. Will try an anvil next.
Great looking wheel!!! My wife was amazed at how well you did the cap. For the sand blasting, I've started using the pressure washer technique. Takes a little to get used to, but you're not getting pelted with all the ricochets. Then, I just hit it with the rust transformer. Keep the cool videos coming!!
Fantastic restoration. You are a true craftsman. Cheers from BC Canada
This turned out absolutely beautiful. Yeah leaving all the weld marks and dings and stuff in the will was the right thing to do. It's really too bad you couldn't got an old valve stem for it. Hope you're doing well. Take care. Or First On Race Day.
Incredible! Kevin sent me over. Thrilled to have added you to my subscriptions.
Wow at how smooth you got dang near all them dents on the cap old punch used as a anvil Nice John great work @FarmCraft101
Wow, what a wonderful job! Thanks so much for the great episode!
I wish we were neighbors! You do some fun projects, for sure!
I think that you did a fantastic job and I like that you kept it original.
Finally some one who understands how to restore stuff why take something made 100 years ago file all the character of it , smooth it out to look like it was made in modern times it ruins the final look of it , it makes it look like it is mass produced in a sweat shop buy under paid people . This was awesomely done to restore it back to the way and time it was made.
Looks great...Get started on that boat motor
You could also have CNC'd a pair of dies to use in your hydraulic press to "re-stamp" the hubcap. Of course, that would require a CNC conversion on your mill...
underrated video.
Great job! I came over from commonwealth picker channel. I restore old cars so I know the work put into restoring old parts like this one. It turned out great!
Found your channel through Commonwealth Flipper - and subscribed! Your channel may be one of my favorites. Oh yes - the wheel looks great!
Impressive save on the hubcap! The wheel is a later 1930-1931 Model A. Although Henry Ford was a brilliant inventor and engineer he did not invent the automobile!
Carl Benz ivented the car in 1886.
I have a 1931 chevy special sedan and it has red wheels also.
Was the original a solid tire or an inner tube tire?
You should have had a respirator while sandblasting the paint off. Due to its age, it likely has lead in the paint.
If you had access to 3D printer, you could have re-created the hub, then cast it in aluminum or bronze to use as an anvil of the correct shape.
Build a large plywood or sheet metal box with a slanted bottom and a hole at the end of the slant. The sand will mostly flow back down through the hole, and falling back into the bucket. No need to stop to sweep.
Just came over from the Commonwealth picker very interesting work
I think the cap turned out almost surprisingly good. The minor dings show that it has some history, but the nickel plating over the dings gives it almost an "artist's impression of old hardware" kind of look.
Great vid! What I've found to work even better & faster than the air blaster is the power washer baster attachment for not much more money. ATB
Man, I absolutely L O V E your videos, all of them. I like your variety. And because you made it I know I will like it!
Get Evaporust ... it is great fast stuff for removing rust without further corrosion... and can be used again and again till it reaches a point where it takes more time(depends on you to dump or keep using)
Awesome work John!
Very good work sir! Seems like Kevin absolutely loves it!!!
I am always anxious when watching sandblasting old stuff. Is there lead in the paint?
We have a 1930 model a ford in the family have had it BBC since 1984. It's a convertible coupe. Called a cabriolet, meaning it has windows in the doors where as a roadster doesnt. The cabriolet the top plays down like a roadster pretty rare car. U dont see many at car shows
Awesome Restoration !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Two thumbs way Up !!!!!!!
Hello 👋
Commonwealthpickers sent me your way.
👍😎👍😎👍😎👍
It's missing the rubber ,gotcha on a play on words .love your videos keep em coming, stay safe
Hi Jon, was just watching Kevins new vid and came over to you to take a look at that Model A wheel, man you did such a great job, so patient, well done bud.
I just found this channel, and Im glad I did, your skills with tinker hammer is really good, I would love a video about how to straighten out dents like that, when ive tried it, I end up with another dent in the dent so to say. Have a great day.
Agree it need some contrast. Some black pinstripe rims would look good. Good work!
Wonderful job! Love the sand blast trick.
Looks like a real good job on that wheel. I understand that it went to an auction and the profits went to charity, so I hope you got a good price for it. I really don't think that a Model A restorer would pay much for it though. You restored a 19" !930-31 Model A wheel, which is the easiest Model A wheel to find. At least yours appears to have good bolt holes, not enlarged from the nuts becoming loose. And the spokes are good with no loose or bent ones. But those wheels have always been too common to be worth much. Now if it was a 21" 1928-29 wheel in that condition with no rustout in the rim, as often occured, then it would be much harder to find and worth more. Or especially if it was a 16" 1935 Ford wire wheel, now those are especially desired by hot rodders and worth looking for.
But that hubcap. I wouldn't waste my time working on that if it was going on a restored car. Those hubcaps have long been available in reproduction, made of stainless steel, as they originally were. You could have just kept buffing and polishing it, no plating necessary.
Looks awesome. Leave it as it. Oh lord I love it!!! 😍
Knowing how frugal Henry Ford was! He didn’t add any color to the channel of rim only the primer! Adding color would’ve been extra cost and money! Great job on the restoration of face of rim
my dads got an old model A with similar wheels, he was in the process of restoring/ rebuilding it and passed away last year so im left with a classic throw up all over the shop, hoping i can eventually rebuild it myself. the drivetrain is completely separated from the other parts of the car, there’s also 2 drivetrains and 2 sets of wheels/tires so i’m not sure what he was doing with that, im thinking i’ll start by restoring the interior stuff lol, id love to know what you suggest!
You did a nice job, it would look better if you put a new tire on it. You can get your black contrast plus would give it a complete look.
Terrific restoration...looks great.
Very very nice. Great job. Love it.
Awesome job!!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Edit: Thanks for the air compressor tip!!! I was wondering how to sandblast an item, without a sandblaster!!!
Hot dip in phosphoric acid at 8/1 would remove all that rust without blasting.
Also suspending the wheel through the centre for instance with a broom handle allows the wheel to be spun making painting easier..
New sub from Kevin's channel. Awesome work!
It looks great and you did a wonderful job restoring it as well
Enjoyed the video and I gave it a Thumbs Up
I picked up a Model A rim with junky tire at an antique store for $25 No hubcap though. great job on the resto.
That cheap sand blaster works very well
Yeah, it's a 30 31 model a, model t wheels were wood spoke till late 27
Amazing restoration with hub! Great job!
Was the primer orange before you put the red on or am I not swing the right color John ? 🤔 @FarmCraft101
I was wondering, based on the projects you work on, if a small vapor honing machine would work better for you… If the pricing was somewhere in the vicinity of a blasting machine?
Thumbs up and a full FOUR STARS!
A lot of work on that hubcap you can buy them brand new from any model a parts dealer for $15 ( that is a 1930-1931 19" rim hub cap)
Jon, absolutely amazing restoration, great video too of your project progression. Excellent editing!! Funny St Peter’s joke 🤣🤣🤣. I’m glad Kevin didn’t find more than one!!! Subbed to your channel 👍 We have the same boat motor you’re restoring…had to stay up to date on that project. We’ll be binge watching your videos ❣️
Dude!!! I need a sandblaster like that!!! Just ordered it thru your affiliate!!! thanks for sharing!
Nice restore job.
I know you use what you have but do you think powder coat is superior to paint?
I bought a skat blast cabinet a few years ago. It's great, but if I were to do it again, I would buy a plasma cutter and make one. They're dead simple. I'd be happy to provide dimensions of mine.
Nice restoration
I think you did the right thing. Inside of rim should stay in primer, just like original.
Awesome
Very nice work! Especially the Ford hub cap (AND the joke).
Since you do so many restorations, could you please tell me the best way and paint to restore my Craftsman Lawn Tractor Cutter deck to a protective coating that will resist rust and allow for grass to be cleaned off?
Thank you!!
I'm not an expert, but POR-15 is generally considered the best of the best rust proofing.
Cool, a Farmcraft 101 premiering at my lunch time. Now, I can watch without having to set aside my own projects.
FORD aka Found on Road Dead. In my days....
By the way, good idea. Working with another TH-camr. You'll both will pick up subscribers and I vaguely remember you suggesting that as an aim.
I am curious how you made out with your excavator search. Plus how easy are hand tools like Draw Knifes to come by in your neck of woods. Here, I had to buy out of Canada thru EBay in order to get one and I had tried everything else including a more or less antique store that had a lot of tools but not a single....
Fix or Recycle Dilemma.
No luck on the excavator, but no hurry. I'll keep looking. I don't do a lot of local shopping for tools, so I'm not sure on availability. I fortunately have a draw knife that was here when I bought the farm.
Will you try tig welding the cracks on the vase?
Don't have a TIG welder...yet. It's on the list!
Do you have any insight into how the spokes are attached to the hub and rim? They clearly seem to be welded, but the flairs at the weld joints don't look like something that was created by any welding process I'm familiar with. Are the flairs maybe created by upsetting in a forging process which maybe also leaves a smaller boss that goes through the hub and rim and then gets arc welded and ground down from the inside?
I was able to answer my own question. They were actually spot welded. The flares are apparently forged as part of making the spokes. The hub and rim are dimpled to accept the spokes. The parts went into a machine which pressed the dimples flat again from inside the hub and rim while at the same time spot welding the joints. It was covered by US patent 1701843. I had no idea they were doing stuff like that in the 1920s. Pretty cool.
Maybe a flat black would be cool, or how hard would it be to source a tire? Looks great though!
St. Jude Supportive Bleep Boop
Excelente trabajo !!!!!
I restored a 1929 Model A Tudor sedan in 1961.
I was fortunate to find an old man who had worked at the Ford assembly plant in Louisville, Kentucky during the years bof Model A production and applied the pinstripe to the cars freehand. As I recall his name was Jacob Bonn.
He also did the pinstripe on my car when it was restored in 1961.
He told me that according to the serial number of my car he was likely to have applied the original pinstripe to my car when it was manufactured.
The following information was obtained in conversations with Mr. Bonn and is likely historically accurate, at least as pertains to vehicles assembled at the Louisville factory:
The original color of all Model A Ford wheels was black.
The wheels (and fenders) were painted by dipping in a vat of paint, always black.
Ford used a fast air drying enamel paint on the wheels, fenders and chassis components, and a proprietary lacquer type paint Ford called pyroxelin on the car body, and applied it by spraying, a new technique at the time.
Dealers often painted the wheels of new cars another color, usually red or yellow, to attract the attention to potential buyers.
In regard to another controversial detail, the area of the body structure exposed under the rear fenders was usually painted black using a brush and black enamel paint, but when the workers doing that job fell behind it wasn't unusual for occasional cars to come out of the factory with the body color exposed in the rear fender wells.
28-29's had the smaller diameter hub cap. 30-31's hub caps are larger.
Great video. Would you recommend powder coating for such wheels?
I've got some dug Schrader valve stems for those wheels! Ah, just saw that he's a flipper. I would've offered to send a valve stem had he been the type of collector that keeps and displays, not flips and sells.
@John Smallberries Cuz I can. What's your point?
Why didn’t you use evaporust?
Well done
Oof that looks like a lot more work than I expected. Planning to paint my 5 model A wheels (for my still driving model A). So got to do this but times 5...
Sadly my model A has an earlier wheel design (different hub size) so this one isn't useful to me.
Wow! great job!
Amazing work!
That was an awesome transformation and the thought process as to why you did X-Y-Z was a master class above my thinking. Do we want more restorations? You bet we do. 😊
Very nice job! I’m with you though, maybe black on the inside of the rim? Might look pretty cool.
Jon. Have you purchased your blast cabinet as yet. Geoff From Australia
No, not yet. It keeps getting bumped for other things.
A mini "English Wheel" would do a great job on the hub cap.
Nice job.
That is a 1930-'31 19 inch model A rim. 1928-29 model A's had 21 inch rims. Early 28's (before April 1928) are not compatible with later 28 and 29 due to a design change with the brakes. There are 3 different Model A wire wheels, all of which have the same 5 bolt hole pattern, and none of which are interchangeable. These 1928-29 model A 21 inch wheels look similar to the 1926-27 model T wheels but, again are different. Lots of design changes going on at the time.
Are you from Virginia? I am. I'm from Charles City if you have heard of it. Now I live in sunny, hot, crowded and cramped Florida. And I get super excited when I see a new episode of yours!!!
That was a pretty good joke. Also, could someone add a tire to it?
I like to keep my location vague, given all the video of my farm I post online. ;-) Glad you liked the video. Yes, tires are still available and could be mounted on it.
@@FarmCraft101 I very much understand. It's always best to stay safe. And thanks for the reply!
New subscriber here from Kevin's channel
Henry Ford in 1930-31 made all his shiny pieces using Alaganey Metal which is stainless steel. A person can buy a perfect reproduction hub cap. the tabs on the cap were bent over before mounting on the car. not all the tabs were bent over just enough to hold it on the wheel. 1928-29 were nickel plated. that wheel is a 1930-31. Ford didn't spray paint the wheels; he dipped them in vats of paint and they hung on a chain rack to dry as they moved through the plant.