You should always loosen the fill bolt first incase it’s doesn’t come out. If you can’t get the fill bolt out but drained your fluid you’re gonna have a hard time getting oil back in.
Great video, my friend! I own nine Moto Guzzi 1100 Sport's, and the final drive on those bikes has three oil ports. The filler port, located on top of the vertical plane on the final drive, which also has a FD breather installed on all of my bikes. Then there is the drain port, located on the bottom of the FD's vertical plane, and a third port, which is the overfill drain port located on the horizontal plane of the FD. This "overfill" port is used as a visual indicator of when the appropriate amount of new oil has been refilled. (The excess or overfill of the new oil will start to flow back out of the horizontal overfill port when the correct amount of oil has been added). It didn't take me long, having to service so many bikes, to learn that I can actually leave the top filling port in place when servicing my bikes FD. I now just remove the drain bolt and the side overfill bolt, let the old oil drain, reinstall the drain bolt, and then inject the new FD's oil with a 60ml oral syringe into the overflow port. I think I inject around 220ml to 240ml until the new oil starts to flow back out of the overfill port, which takes no time at all. For me, needing to remove the final drive breather, which also means that I need to remove the upper FD's mounting bolt in order to access the filler port is a lot of work, so using the side overfill port and a syringe for refilling the new oil is also an easy and clean way of getting the job done; which is if you have a three port final drive design installed on your bike with a FD mounting bracket and mounting bolt surrounding your FD's filler port......
Keep in mind that it may be a good idea to check the fill plug will loosen to make sure you can actually refill the oil. It’s a common suggestion for car differentials, but may be important on old motorcycles as well.
You can also use 10w40, which has almost same spec like 80w90. And there is no such heat in shaft drive that could damage oil viscosity. "Hypoid" only means gears are at angle!
It is in good practice to remove the fill plug first. Let's say you drain it, and then the fill plug doesn't come out. Well, then you are just SOL aren't you? Remove the fill plug first.
And you want to have the oil flow out quickly to better flush out sediment. So you get your hands a little oily. Man up! And real mechanics don’t wear gloves.
This is what I've always heard. Maybe you can snug it up again but always break that filler bolt before anything. Imagine your first time finding out what a triple square is when you are looking for a tool to break your fill bolt.
I find that putting the gear oil into a condiment squeeze bottle (think catsup), the ones with the nozzle works best. I have Urals, 3 of them. (and a Harley, but I digress) I ride them a lot so I do this a lot and always, always remember to lube thy splines as recommended by the manufacturer, or better! Here is my edit, after reading the other comments, RTFM. You change diff oil more often than turn signal fluid...
This video didn’t cover some things it should have. 1. Always loosen the full plug first to make sure you can replace fluid you drain! 2. The use of a hair dye bottle makes shaft drive oil changes short. Seriously, I can pump 180-220mL of gear oil in my K1600 in a few seconds.
In many old cub bike, they have a protection that cover entire the chain and make it last longer, but nowadays people like it open, so dirt can stick so easily.
Supersport/superbikes? The UK is just a mesh of bad weather so I totally feel your pain. Power delivery isn't as efficient so that's certainly one reason it isn't more common.
Chain slack smoothens the power delivery from the engine. You have fuel rapidly expanding in the cylinder and those shocks are quite rough on a sports bike, which would result in ruining your rear tire. Especially the grippy soft ones...
Yup. He's got a good point! When you lube your shaft, you never want to see discoloration or chunks when the fluid comes out. That means you have a *serious* problem. ;] Always lube your shaft carefully, and never ride without protection. No one wants a broken shaft.
Pro tip: any thing that works optimal when warm and that resides inside a waterproof container, place in a bucket of hot water. Here, the guy should have placed the oil in such a scenario. Even changing out the hot water when it cooled. My mechanic/shop teacher taught me this.
Great video, thank you!! I'm working on my 2003 Vulcan 1500 Classic and currently have the wheel & the final drive gear assembly out/off and draining!! Do you know if it slowly feeds some of the gear oil out of the inside of the final drive housing to help lubricate the splines to the rear tire?? I can't seem to find an answer to this and I'm hoping youll be able to help!! Much appreciated!!! Don
I just purchased a bike and haven’t had issues with a shaft driven bike prior but this one is a 2013 Suzuki c90 and it vibrates if given to much throttle it’s not like it’s going to vibrate out of your arms but it’s noticed
Yeah BMW have the paralever and I've only used an XJ900S 1994 you only get power rise scare if you drop the clutch from standing start into corners too many grubby wash up sessions with chain drive I had a 1984 GPZ250 belt drive didn't get to test it though, the Honda CBX550 would've been in
I just bought my V star 1100 a few months ago. Decided to do a few low maintenance tasks just to kinda get a feel of the previous owners doings. Hed already disabled the AIS bc he put 4.5 cobras on and everything was checking out.... until i drained the final drive. Only a little oil came out but the rest was diluted (from the oil) AXEL GREASE! Im flushing it now but im worried there already may be irreversible damage. Large metal shavings came out with the grease. Do i need to open the final drive and clear out the rest of the grease?
A correction needs to be added. Never, EVER, EVER, drain the oil without first removing the fill port plug. If you can't get the fill plug off or it gets stripped you don't want to find this out After you drained all of the oil. A tip to help make the oil fill a little faster, put the bottle in a pot of hot water first.
I guess the frequency of shaft oil changes was not mentioned in the video - is it to be done with every other oil change?? Or once every three oil changes? Or just after a certain amount of miles ???
Read your service schedule for your bike. e.g. for Triumph shaft drive it is change once at the break in service (1000km) then never change again. You are wasting your money changing shaft drive oil too often or every other service. If a manufacturer recommends it go ahead but if not, the oil will barely be troubled at 30,000-40,000 miles. Think how often you get your car gearbox oil changed, like never! Too many people making a low maintenance shaft drive into a maintained item.
Read your Manual. Not every bike as the same frequency of changes. My Yamaha Venture Royale from 1990 did not have the same change frequency as my dads Honda Gold WIng 2006.
what your manual says, can't answer for every bike. I have 3 from the same manufacturer. One's is double the other two, so it even changes from year to year on the same bike!
“Oil resistant gloves.” Puts on mesh gloves with a rubber coating on the hands. 🤦♂️ The coating may be “oil resistant” just like the sole of a boot. The rest of the glove, just like the rest of the boot, isn’t oil resistant.
Good to see MC garage ain't dead. Keep it real and going
Always lubricate your shaft
I see what you did there
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
You should always loosen the fill bolt first incase it’s doesn’t come out. If you can’t get the fill bolt out but drained your fluid you’re gonna have a hard time getting oil back in.
Great video, my friend! I own nine Moto Guzzi 1100 Sport's, and the final drive on those bikes has three oil ports. The filler port, located on top of the vertical plane on the final drive, which also has a FD breather installed on all of my bikes. Then there is the drain port, located on the bottom of the FD's vertical plane, and a third port, which is the overfill drain port located on the horizontal plane of the FD. This "overfill" port is used as a visual indicator of when the appropriate amount of new oil has been refilled. (The excess or overfill of the new oil will start to flow back out of the horizontal overfill port when the correct amount of oil has been added). It didn't take me long, having to service so many bikes, to learn that I can actually leave the top filling port in place when servicing my bikes FD. I now just remove the drain bolt and the side overfill bolt, let the old oil drain, reinstall the drain bolt, and then inject the new FD's oil with a 60ml oral syringe into the overflow port. I think I inject around 220ml to 240ml until the new oil starts to flow back out of the overfill port, which takes no time at all. For me, needing to remove the final drive breather, which also means that I need to remove the upper FD's mounting bolt in order to access the filler port is a lot of work, so using the side overfill port and a syringe for refilling the new oil is also an easy and clean way of getting the job done; which is if you have a three port final drive design installed on your bike with a FD mounting bracket and mounting bolt surrounding your FD's filler port......
I'm glad that the crying for Ari to come back has stopped!
Keep in mind that it may be a good idea to check the fill plug will loosen to make sure you can actually refill the oil. It’s a common suggestion for car differentials, but may be important on old motorcycles as well.
This! This THE most common way to make sure this process goes smoothly.
Otherwise you might have to flip the motorcycle upside down to fill....
final drive oil capacity has a very fine tolerance, so measure twice, pour once.
As always: Straight-forward informative videos.
(glad you guys are still putting them out)
You can also use 10w40, which has almost same spec like 80w90. And there is no such heat in shaft drive that could damage oil viscosity. "Hypoid" only means gears are at angle!
It is in good practice to remove the fill plug first. Let's say you drain it, and then the fill plug doesn't come out. Well, then you are just SOL aren't you? Remove the fill plug first.
Yup, this is best practice for when you do a differential oil change as well
And you want to have the oil flow out quickly to better flush out sediment. So you get your hands a little oily. Man up! And real mechanics don’t wear gloves.
This is what I've always heard. Maybe you can snug it up again but always break that filler bolt before anything.
Imagine your first time finding out what a triple square is when you are looking for a tool to break your fill bolt.
agreed, but since it's a BMW, what could possibly go wrong (says the man who has owned 7 of the damned things)
Finally a normal video great job !
I find that putting the gear oil into a condiment squeeze bottle (think catsup), the ones with the nozzle works best. I have Urals, 3 of them. (and a Harley, but I digress)
I ride them a lot so I do this a lot and always, always remember to lube thy splines as recommended by the manufacturer, or better!
Here is my edit, after reading the other comments, RTFM. You change diff oil more often than turn signal fluid...
This video didn’t cover some things it should have.
1. Always loosen the full plug first to make sure you can replace fluid you drain!
2. The use of a hair dye bottle makes shaft drive oil changes short. Seriously, I can pump 180-220mL of gear oil in my K1600 in a few seconds.
I commented that it was terrible advice to open the drain plug first and my comment was deleted.
In many old cub bike, they have a protection that cover entire the chain and make it last longer, but nowadays people like it open, so dirt can stick so easily.
My dad has a Honda Dream 305, with the chain cover, non o-ring chain, he lubricates and cleans it once a year, and barely gets dirty.
@@genns1679 yes, very old usefull thing to do.
Right. Even one of the first hyper bikes has it.
The Münch Mammut
Shame they don't do shaft drive on the bikes I like to ride. Chains get mucky very quick here in the UK
Supersport/superbikes? The UK is just a mesh of bad weather so I totally feel your pain. Power delivery isn't as efficient so that's certainly one reason it isn't more common.
And even quicker in Ireland!
Chain slack smoothens the power delivery from the engine. You have fuel rapidly expanding in the cylinder and those shocks are quite rough on a sports bike, which would result in ruining your rear tire. Especially the grippy soft ones...
The weight!!!
Just think of the weight!!!
Me driving VMaxes (Gen1 & Gen2). So happy about the shaft drive ;-)
I'd expect the ribs of the flexible funnel spout to throw the volume measurement off pouring viscous fluids like gear oil.
Thanks for this and keep up the good work.
"Any big chips are a sign that you've got big problems in your rear end" 😂
Anyways love shaft driven!
Yup. He's got a good point!
When you lube your shaft, you never want to see discoloration or chunks when the fluid comes out.
That means you have a *serious* problem.
;]
Always lube your shaft carefully, and never ride without protection. No one wants a broken shaft.
Pro tip: any thing that works optimal when warm and that resides inside a waterproof container, place in a bucket of hot water. Here, the guy should have placed the oil in such a scenario. Even changing out the hot water when it cooled. My mechanic/shop teacher taught me this.
Justin Dawes thx!
Never had, probably never will have one. But very interesting to see how it's maintained.
Great video, thank you!! I'm working on my 2003 Vulcan 1500 Classic and currently have the wheel & the final drive gear assembly out/off and draining!! Do you know if it slowly feeds some of the gear oil out of the inside of the final drive housing to help lubricate the splines to the rear tire?? I can't seem to find an answer to this and I'm hoping youll be able to help!! Much appreciated!!! Don
I just purchased a bike and haven’t had issues with a shaft driven bike prior but this one is a 2013 Suzuki c90 and it vibrates if given to much throttle it’s not like it’s going to vibrate out of your arms but it’s noticed
What should I use to drain the shaft of metal shavings
What are the symptoms of low gear oil?
Yeah BMW have the paralever and I've only used an XJ900S 1994 you only get power rise scare if you drop the clutch from standing start into corners too many grubby wash up sessions with chain drive I had a 1984 GPZ250 belt drive didn't get to test it though, the Honda CBX550 would've been in
I just bought my V star 1100 a few months ago. Decided to do a few low maintenance tasks just to kinda get a feel of the previous owners doings. Hed already disabled the AIS bc he put 4.5 cobras on and everything was checking out.... until i drained the final drive. Only a little oil came out but the rest was diluted (from the oil) AXEL GREASE! Im flushing it now but im worried there already may be irreversible damage. Large metal shavings came out with the grease. Do i need to open the final drive and clear out the rest of the grease?
A correction needs to be added.
Never, EVER, EVER, drain the oil without first removing the fill port plug. If you can't get the fill plug off or it gets stripped you don't want to find this out After you drained all of the oil.
A tip to help make the oil fill a little faster, put the bottle in a pot of hot water first.
Careful, I commented this and it was deleted.
Can you do a video on cvt transmission?
How do I get to the universal joint to grease that?
the Honda CBX550 would've been interesting as a shaft drive
How much is enough? Is it when it dribbles out the fill hole?
Should be written in your manuals. In semis its usually the case but then again, semis and bikes are two different things :D
Unfortunately the brainiacs at bmw made the bottom of the fill hole higher than the oil level so you have to measure it
How do i find cheap hypoid hear oil? Will molly work? Does it matter if the bike is less than 100hp? Is it weird that, that is even a question?
Would be nice to mention the bmw fluid ounce and torque specs. Glad u mentioned using new washers!
I have changed mine for 6 years and have lost significant power. Now it doesn’t go above 80km/h
What about the u joint and spline maint.?
usually sealed for life! leave them alone!
Good video
Is red lining the engine harmful? Next topic
What about the Honda VT500 Ascot (1984)?
I thought you were going to take one apart.
Should this be done: Cold, Hot, or doesn’t matter?
how to measure the amount of oil
I use a large syringe 💉wit quantity gradients marked on.
It's weird hearing someone pronounce Moto Guzzi properly.
I guess the frequency of shaft oil changes was not mentioned in the video - is it to be done with every other oil change?? Or once every three oil changes? Or just after a certain amount of miles ???
Read your service schedule for your bike. e.g. for Triumph shaft drive it is change once at the break in service (1000km) then never change again. You are wasting your money changing shaft drive oil too often or every other service. If a manufacturer recommends it go ahead but if not, the oil will barely be troubled at 30,000-40,000 miles. Think how often you get your car gearbox oil changed, like never! Too many people making a low maintenance shaft drive into a maintained item.
Read your Manual. Not every bike as the same frequency of changes. My Yamaha Venture Royale from 1990 did not have the same change frequency as my dads Honda Gold WIng 2006.
oh wow just like engine oil
1:14 will give warning about o-ring, never gave info about it... still wating...
What is the change for that service? And when should it be done ?
what your manual says, can't answer for every bike. I have 3 from the same manufacturer. One's is double the other two, so it even changes from year to year on the same bike!
JamesAllmond oh so you don’t have any idea ,so disappointed !
What about grease the actual shafts?
Well I have a shaft driven scooter because my name is Scott. Can I still chill?
“Oil resistant gloves.” Puts on mesh gloves with a rubber coating on the hands. 🤦♂️
The coating may be “oil resistant” just like the sole of a boot. The rest of the glove, just like the rest of the boot, isn’t oil resistant.
when i hear shaft drive .. i dont think BMW .. i go straight for Honda ^.^ .. oh and remember . not only does it stink .. but it is also carcinogenic
Bring bk the other guy who burnt himself with fireworks. what a mad lad
This guy needs to liven up a bit, talks like a high school science teacher
"torque to the proper spec". Why not tell the torque value for the motorcycle you were working on?
@Justin Dawes to quote myself: "for the motorcycle you were working on"
@Justin Dawes sorry, I wasn't clear enough. You just specify: "which is x Nm for this bike" 😃
@@rationalityfirst Just check YOUR manual! Even bikes of the same make may be different depending on model!
@@rationalityfirst Liability. Just because you are intelligent, just mean others are as well.